Had a chance to build two, furniture grade bookshelves for family. Used the shelf edging techniques for the first time and I am amazed at the results. The concave edge router bit worked as described to allow room for glue and the 1-3/8” 23 gauge pins are so much better than 18 gauge brads for securing the edge trim while the glue dries. I don’t have a Festool router so I bought the Fastcap Little Lipper and attached it to my Bosch trim router using the spiral trim router bit. Worked so well as a replacement for the special Festool router attachment to flush trim the edge trim even with the plywood.
Don't be afraid to use the ply prep bit in 1/4" shank. The bit removes such a small amount of material, the size matters mindset, in this case, is immaterial.
I'm a furniture maker, but I do a decent amount of trim carpentry for a general contractor in my region. I've enjoyed it and been pretty successful. I've also learned a lot of great tricks from watching your channel. It's the best channel of its kind on RUclips. You're wonderful to watch. Thanks for letting me into the shop to hang out. God bless.
FYI - Armor Tools' P7-IL Auto-Adjust In-Line Dog Clamp is similar to the Festool clamping elements, but they're designed to fit a 3/4" dog hole (vs Festools' 20mm dogs) - and about half the price
Spencer, I very much appreciate your pacing in your videos. It is great to be able to not only see and hear how your are talking about doing something, but to also be able to see what you are saying in action. The only questions I had after watching this is 1: Do you sand your plywood and poplar noses before joining them? 2: With gluing and putting the 23ga pins in, I'm guessing you don't have any need to attach the noses in any other way. They are strong enough with just these two methods of attachment? 3: Do you have any tips for dealing with the holes from the 23 ga brads or with poplar do they just become invisible with sanding? Thanks!
If paint grade i stand after glue up. If stain grade I might sand before and after to ensure I can reach all the areas that need sanding. On stain grade the 23 gauge holes disappear with stain.
Would you save any time by routing the full planks for roundover and cutting to size after? Less times a piece is mounted on the bench. Maybe not, just a thought.
Another excellent video. Gonna have to have a look at that pin nailer for field work. All my 23ga nailers are currently Grex because they're the only one to my knowledge that shoots a 3/8 nail, which I use a lot in shop work.
Ahhh..gotta get some calls...pretty sure woodpecker still offer them, beings this vid is 4: years old..very impressive set up for all that ..there's more then likely not a better way lol...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that bit convex? It looks like it to me, and I'm imagining that it cuts a concave dip, in the center of the edge of the shelf?
Plan to order the Collins bit and see it is offered in both 1/4 and 1/2. Do you think think the Dewalt cordless trim router has enough power to effectively run this bit? Love that little router and sure like not having to worry about cords.
There has been back and forth with collins. At first you could only get it by whiteside in 1/4 shank, now you can only get it in 1/2" shank. I much prefer the 1/2" shank. The dewalt router would probably do it, but I prefer a bit larger router for that bit plus dust collection.
How do you like the sliding portion of the saw stop saw? I am considering a Felder type for my own shop but not really familiar with the sliding table saw as I am also a midwest boy myself. Love the videos.
don't get me wrong....that router set up is bad ass but we hardly ever have to make that many on a job...we just cranked out 12 square tapered recessed exterior cedar columns in 3 6 hour days...got any tips for tight mitered corners?..mine are tight...they all get stained....no getting saved by caulk and paint lol
When using the cauls you put the clamps way out on the ends of the shelves. Wouldn't it be better to put them around 1/5th of the length inwards? That way the caul would bend even less. This might just be theoretical though. Lol. I should have watched the entire video before posting. Sorry.
I am having a little trouble setting up the Collins bit for prepping the plywood and was wondering if you could help? Are you taking material off of the full thickness of the material or just to the very top and bottom? Also how are you attaching the wood fence to the router base? I can't think of a good way to attach it while still allowing me ton dial in the correct offset. Surely I am missing something very obvious and should learn how to code. (maybe funny maybe not). Thank you for all your videos, they have been very helpful in starting to work for myself. In owe of what you have built in homes and your business. If you are ever in North Texas let me know and tacos are on me.
I really need to say your videos real count for us who are constantly trying to improve our skillsets. This video address exactly what I've been trying to hone in on with my built-ins nosing. It's so appreciated. I'd really like to see any improvements you might have came up with on your miter saw wings too.
I learned a lot buying that bit for my nosing thru ur site. I really don’t need a production set up cause I am no where near that. However I do custom cabinets & tables which can be just a huge time eater !! So I learned “set up , set up, set up” and of course u are w/me on this u get what u pay for in tools! Buy good solid tools & they pay u back! Thk u Spencer!
we always do shelves and tops on site...careful with the glue...pin nails and orbital sander...I use some clamps with plywood continuous grain floating shelves....lotta specialty rips to have the painter stain them so dark you cant see the grain...what a kick to the....s
I gotta say the only thing as good as these videos are the comments on these videos. I feel like I'm getting an off-the-job education every time you post! Thanks for the lessons and keep up the good work! 👍
Wow, "Quite a bit of money" on cauls is an understatement at $219 a set. Spend money to make money. Congrats on putting yourself in a position to invest in yourself and your business!
I'm not kidding though when I say its some of the best money I've spent. Lifetime tool. Not gonna break. And I use them constantly. The money has been long since forgotten.
Thanks for sharing! I used to work in cabinet shop. Your way is a lot more efficient. We used to biscuit our nosing, or cut, glue the nosing, 3-4 bar clamps, 18 guage. Then throw on router table after it's dry.. The idea of concave router bit for tighter joint I love it.
Bessey K clamps REALLY suck! I unfortunately spent thousands on them trusting all the positive soul selling reviews of them. They constantly slip as you tighten them leaving very little thread when it finally engages for clamping. THEY SUCK!
Spencer, My initial thought when I saw all your Bessey Clamps was "Nobody needs that many clamps" but boy was I wrong. Now I just need to convince my wife "I" need that many clamps. I really enjoy all your videos.Hopefully I finish all of them soon so I can get back to work in my own shop. Thanks
I do the same thing on my shelves but I use a router ran in the conventional manner with the spiral trimming bit and a jig I made specifically for this purpose that is clamped to the shelf to support the router from tipping. It works very well for me. I had considered buying a lipping planner but my current set up has allowed me to do this without it. I like your system and approach. It’s very efficient which is so important in our business of production finish work.
My system is still in wish stage. Im a deck and Screen porch builder who watches these videos for the "the grass is greener on the other side" effect. I want a shop like the kid in a Christmas story wanted a Daisy Red Rider BB Gun
No, I really don’t think you can get anymore efficient, or any more fool proof; which means you need an apprentice!! Get a young guy, a boy, whatever have you. And let him do some of that routing!! You’ve got this set up so well in stages, he can do the next stage while you are finishing the first one, and then you pick up the 3rd one while he’s doing the 2nd. Granted, this comes down to money, but it’s an investment, and if you love what you do and don’t want to share it, that’s fine. But make no mistake Spencer, teaching an apprentice might be the most gratifying work you could ever do. Think about it!!!
I don’t have many cauls so I tend to clamp 2 shelves together so the nosings are in the middle and use the shelves as the cauls. Just need longer clamps is all
Thanks for alll these glorious vids. It's been a huge delight subbing all these years and projects and you are a great educator and your passion for what you do is super inspiring. Hope you are having a great weekend.
Thanks, Yeah I was on vacation in Florida all last week and was a little burned out on editing before then. Should be back to weekly videos for a while.
I’ll need to look into that ply prep bit. For my shelves the front edge is usually square. I use the freeborne lock miter shaper cutter to cut the shelves and the front edge. When I glue it up there’s no slipping or anything. Just a little bit of cleanup and you’re good to go. Obviously that wouldn’t work with a large profile. I also like fastcaps FastBreak edge sander. Both the standard and large. It makes quick work of easing shelf edges. For countertops I rabbet my edging. This let me route a profile in it but also helps align the edging. Plus it’s faster to sand 1/4” flush than a full 3/4”. I lock miter or miter fold my live ends. I can see the Collins bit being useful anywhere plywood attaches to hardwood, particularly where it needs to be flush. I’d probably use this on my cabinet bottoms and fixed shelves.
Great video Mr. Lewis. That convex bit is too damn cool. Thanks for the tip....once again I am envious of your shop space. Keep it up....you've come a long way from the days at CT and I only see you going further.
Interesting I hadn't really considered that. I'm not sure. I don't use any of the MDF core simply because the supplier I get my millwork from sells veneer core.
I just bought my first home. I cant wait to start doing the trim and other custom work around the house. Thanks a million for posting these how to videos. There going to help a lot.
Another excellent video, thanks. I’ll have to get try the router bit, it’s the only thing that I can afford😢. I see a lot of Paulk work benches in videos and they tend to be fairly pristine, yours, not so much and that’s a good thing.
Spencer, I think if you were to use a 5 mm or a 6 mm domino, it would make quicker work of your process you are doing there. Also, Fastcap is going to be coming out with a domino-like piece that is made out of plastic and has reverse cuts in it so you can apply your edge treatment the way you are right now and you basically smack th piece onto the face of the shelf with the special plastic dominoes and it will hold your peace tight against the edge, to where you likely would not even need a clamp anymore. If you need a link, let me know and I will get one for you.
...........Hello, I see you have two different router bits listed as for Spiral Flush Trimming. ...........Which one do you use & what is the difference between the two.
I am really learning a lot from your videos. Not to be nerdy, but I like how you talk about time savers and production runs. Very important to keep in mind. After seeing this one I have been watching a number of your other videos. But before I binge on your teaching I was wondering if you would comment on your training? Did you go trade school, college, apprenticeship, grow up in the business? Thanks much.
Started in construction as soon as I could drive. Education, worked for multiple companies and a tone of internet research. I'd say I was trained by the internet.
I think this is the 5th time I watched this video! Great work. Question: When you have nosings that wide (looks like about 3 1/2"), do you ever just just pocket screws to attach to save on time/clamping? Or, are you worried that you will still be able to see the pocket holes in the shelves that are installed up high?
Very good video. Just ordered the compression bit, didn’t know about that. I really like my lipping planer but that router setup rocks. I have every other Festool router but will probably go with a 1010 now as I groove edges for other reasons (weather stripping for example) and really like the potential. Thank-you for posting.
Spencer, I really have learned a lot from your video content. I especially appreciate your explanations and demonstrations on coping moldings. I would like to purchase the Whiteside bit you use when applying shelf edging but I can't seem to find it in your Amazon store. Can you please give me some direction? Thanks again for taking time to share your knowledge.
Some very good information here. Just curious what you're using to break down sheet goods from full size? Do you get them rough cut to be more manageable from your supplier? Also do you have someone CNC your carcass parts?
I am surprised that you do so much with poplar. Just because it has a green to it as well as it is soft. However I want to source the same but have struggled to find it. I do a lot of custom residential and multi family renovation/ repair work and the majority of that work includes quite a bit of finish carpentry. As well, are you using 3/4” sanded pine for your sheet goods?
Fastcap makes the little lipper for flush trimming. I haven’t used it but heard good things and it’s a generic one size fits all, brand agnostic. I have some green tools but haven’t made the plunge to the of-1010, it does look nice look all things Festool. Your profiling looks nice! I agree with you on the Whiteside they have good carbide. I like Freud but I lean toward the made in the USA and buy Whiteside. For easing over your freehanding it or two stepping and using a 1/16 radius Klim cut and second pass or just following up with a swipe of 220/320 Granat? Great tip on the concave Collins tool/Whiteside!
I also have the fast cap flush trimming attachment. Its ok, but not great. I don't ever use it. For easing, I just go one pass with a 5/32 radius whiteside bit, as long as it doesn't start skipping/hopping one pass is usually good enough for me.
Insider Carpentry so your edge profile was down with a 5/32 and a 1/8 (4/32) bearing to get that nice ogee detail? I don’t know where I saw the thumbnail profile it’s simpler and only gets one pass, instead of top and bottom, you can also use a thinner piece of material and do the glue up then route in the detail single pass. Hey it looks great what you’ve done... but I’m one that gets caught in the “10% rule” when I should have just gotten on with the next job? Once I go down that rabbit hole it’s tough to climb back up. You do have a good system though for batching out the profile. Thanks for the heads up on the fastcap little lipper! I’m wondering if you’ve used the Festool mfk-700 trim router for doing small profiles, I’m thinking that the attachments and DC are interchangeable?
*Plz follow-up on shelving video* Are the shelves stationary or adjustable 🤔 Installation process, like kitchen cabinets 🤔 Painting before or after installing 🤔 Great to see you again 😊✝️
I love the video. It's really good stuff. I was wondering though, couldn't the last flush trimming step with the 1010 router be eliminated if the nosing were attached using dominoes as there wouldn't be any lippage to remove, no? Keep up the great work!
Not with the size of the beading cut that I was using here. Any inconsistency would really show up quite a bit. Also the plywood I use can be a little wavy. I think it would actually take more time to mess with the dominoes.
@@InsiderCarpentry just saw a amazing product from fast cap called the little lipper which would turn any router into edge banding flush cutting setup just curious if you have ever seen or use this product?
The mfk is designed more for edge banding. The base plate requires modification if you want to do 3/4" plus edge banding. I felt the 1010 would be a better buy as its more versatile. But with the modification the mfk would be a great tool for this also. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money on what is essentially a palm router. I've very happy with the 1010 purchase.
I build custom cabinets and i usually run a shallow dado on the back side of the nosing leaving a 1/8" lip on the top side of shelf. Seems to work pretty good nobody has complained yet.
![Cabinetry Basics Part 1 [video 435]](/img/1.gif)
THANKS FOR SUPPORTING THE CHANNEL BY USING THESE AFFILIATE LINKS!!!
Festool OF1010 Router - geni.us/rBq6AW (Amazon)
Festool Router Edging Plate - geni.us/D45S (Amazon)
Festool Angle Arm - geni.us/7YAvOx (Amazon)
Festool Chip Deflector - geni.us/OAgOeR (Amazon)
Festool Bench Dog Clamp - geni.us/aKBVGFv (Amazon)
Kreg Blue Bench Dogs - geni.us/UFKD1IR (Amazon)
Whiteside Spiral Up Down Compression Bit - geni.us/pUiS (Amazon)
Whiteside Spiral Up Cut Flush Bit - geni.us/cJ6CY (Amazon)
My Preferred Dust Collector - Festool Midi - geni.us/1Nx3tcw (Amazon)
My Favorite Sander - Festool ETS/EC 150/5 - geni.us/6Vde (Amazon)
Had a chance to build two, furniture grade bookshelves for family. Used the shelf edging techniques for the first time and I am amazed at the results. The concave edge router bit worked as described to allow room for glue and the 1-3/8” 23 gauge pins are so much better than 18 gauge brads for securing the edge trim while the glue dries. I don’t have a Festool router so I bought the Fastcap Little Lipper and attached it to my Bosch trim router using the spiral trim router bit. Worked so well as a replacement for the special Festool router attachment to flush trim the edge trim even with the plywood.
Glad to hear you like it. 👊
Thanks for the tip re: the Little Lipper!
@@keving8682 I have a dewalt dedicated to the little lipper i also have the 1010 set up but it is dedicated to the LR32 system
Don't be afraid to use the ply prep bit in 1/4" shank. The bit removes such a small amount of material, the size matters mindset, in this case, is immaterial.
That ply prep bit is a game changer, I’m going to need another router lol. Thanks for sharing
"I'm going to need another router." ......Story of my life. lol
I'm a furniture maker, but I do a decent amount of trim carpentry for a general contractor in my region. I've enjoyed it and been pretty successful. I've also learned a lot of great tricks from watching your channel. It's the best channel of its kind on RUclips. You're wonderful to watch. Thanks for letting me into the shop to hang out. God bless.
You might consider doing a part two to this video.
You might also want to check out This Is Carpentry
@@stevebengel1346 Hey Steve. Yeah Subscribe to that channel. I'm a fan Of Gary katz. Great channel.
FYI - Armor Tools' P7-IL Auto-Adjust In-Line Dog Clamp is similar to the Festool clamping elements, but they're designed to fit a 3/4" dog hole (vs Festools' 20mm dogs) - and about half the price
Another great video. Thanks for your time.
Great setup! I like your process!
Spencer, I very much appreciate your pacing in your videos. It is great to be able to not only see and hear how your are talking about doing something, but to also be able to see what you are saying in action. The only questions I had after watching this is 1: Do you sand your plywood and poplar noses before joining them?
2: With gluing and putting the 23ga pins in, I'm guessing you don't have any need to attach the noses in any other way. They are strong enough with just these two methods of attachment?
3: Do you have any tips for dealing with the holes from the 23 ga brads or with poplar do they just become invisible with sanding?
Thanks!
If paint grade i stand after glue up. If stain grade I might sand before and after to ensure I can reach all the areas that need sanding.
On stain grade the 23 gauge holes disappear with stain.
Would you save any time by routing the full planks for roundover and cutting to size after? Less times a piece is mounted on the bench. Maybe not, just a thought.
Another excellent video. Gonna have to have a look at that pin nailer for field work. All my 23ga nailers are currently Grex because they're the only one to my knowledge that shoots a 3/8 nail, which I use a lot in shop work.
I recently got the Millawakee 23 g 12V pin nailer. Love it!. No hose and very nimble pin nailing base and window skirting / apron returns.
Enlightening !!!
Ahhh..gotta get some calls...pretty sure woodpecker still offer them, beings this vid is 4: years old..very impressive set up for all that ..there's more then likely not a better way lol...
They produce a new run every couple years.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that bit convex? It looks like it to me, and I'm imagining that it cuts a concave dip, in the center of the edge of the shelf?
Haha, right you are. I is smart.
@@InsiderCarpentry ... hahahaaa...ok, I thought I was losing my mind!
You had me believing it? What you meant is the profile is concave. I figured it out, after the professor corrected you and I read his comment lol
Plan to order the Collins bit and see it is offered in both 1/4 and 1/2. Do you think think the Dewalt cordless trim router has enough power to effectively run this bit? Love that little router and sure like not having to worry about cords.
There has been back and forth with collins. At first you could only get it by whiteside in 1/4 shank, now you can only get it in 1/2" shank. I much prefer the 1/2" shank. The dewalt router would probably do it, but I prefer a bit larger router for that bit plus dust collection.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks for the advice. I will go with the 1/2". Keep up all your great videos!
Jim Reed good call! The 1/2 inch shank will also provide a much more stable platform. 1/4 inch has too much flex.
How do you like the sliding portion of the saw stop saw? I am considering a Felder type for my own shop but not really familiar with the sliding table saw as I am also a midwest boy myself. Love the videos.
I hate it. I never use the fence. For me it’s only used to assist in pushing sheet goods through.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks!
don't get me wrong....that router set up is bad ass but we hardly ever have to make that many on a job...we just cranked out 12 square tapered recessed exterior cedar columns in 3 6 hour days...got any tips for tight mitered corners?..mine are tight...they all get stained....no getting saved by caulk and paint lol
When using the cauls you put the clamps way out on the ends of the shelves. Wouldn't it be better to put them around 1/5th of the length inwards? That way the caul would bend even less. This might just be theoretical though.
Lol. I should have watched the entire video before posting. Sorry.
so what makes you chose plywood rather than mdf if paint grade? what type are you using?
If you keep old gift cards they make excellent glue spreaders and the glue is easily scraped off. Keeps your hands clean and your work area as well.
You sir, are an efficiency master.
I am having a little trouble setting up the Collins bit for prepping the plywood and was wondering if you could help? Are you taking material off of the full thickness of the material or just to the very top and bottom? Also how are you attaching the wood fence to the router base? I can't think of a good way to attach it while still allowing me ton dial in the correct offset. Surely I am missing something very obvious and should learn how to code. (maybe funny maybe not). Thank you for all your videos, they have been very helpful in starting to work for myself. In owe of what you have built in homes and your business. If you are ever in North Texas let me know and tacos are on me.
I really need to say your videos real count for us who are constantly trying to improve our skillsets. This video address exactly what I've been trying to hone in on with my built-ins nosing. It's so appreciated. I'd really like to see any improvements you might have came up with on your miter saw wings too.
I learned a lot buying that bit for my nosing thru ur site.
I really don’t need a production set up cause I am no where near that. However I do custom cabinets & tables which can be just a huge time eater !!
So I learned “set up , set up, set up” and of course u are w/me on this u get what u pay for in tools!
Buy good solid tools & they pay u back!
Thk u Spencer!
Ok, the ply prep bit, I don’t get it
Love this program, question what do you use to remove glue from clamps. thanks
we always do shelves and tops on site...careful with the glue...pin nails and orbital sander...I use some clamps with plywood continuous grain floating shelves....lotta specialty rips to have the painter stain them so dark you cant see the grain...what a kick to the....s
I gotta say the only thing as good as these videos are the comments on these videos. I feel like I'm getting an off-the-job education every time you post! Thanks for the lessons and keep up the good work! 👍
Glad you like them!
Another great video from a great craftsman.
Wow, "Quite a bit of money" on cauls is an understatement at $219 a set. Spend money to make money. Congrats on putting yourself in a position to invest in yourself and your business!
I'm not kidding though when I say its some of the best money I've spent. Lifetime tool. Not gonna break. And I use them constantly. The money has been long since forgotten.
Could you make a similar product in something like 3/4 MDF. Once they start to bend one way, just flip them over
buy one set and use them as templates to make 10 more out of poplar with a pattern bit save 2 grand
I want to be like you when I grow up!!!
I think you meant Convexed????
Thanks for sharing! I used to work in cabinet shop. Your way is a lot more efficient. We used to biscuit our nosing, or cut, glue the nosing, 3-4 bar clamps, 18 guage. Then throw on router table after it's dry.. The idea of concave router bit for tighter joint I love it.
Nice work as always.
Any chance you could show (in another video) close up how you put together the sub fence on the Bosch router / Collins Prep ply?
Bessey K clamps REALLY suck! I unfortunately spent thousands on them trusting all the positive soul selling reviews of them. They constantly slip as you tighten them leaving very little thread when it finally engages for clamping. THEY SUCK!
Its amazing how much people are missing out with a climb cut. Makes such a better cut imo
Spencer, My initial thought when I saw all your Bessey Clamps was "Nobody needs that many clamps" but boy was I wrong. Now I just need to convince my wife "I" need that many clamps. I really enjoy all your videos.Hopefully I finish all of them soon so I can get back to work in my own shop. Thanks
I do the same thing on my shelves but I use a router ran in the conventional manner with the spiral trimming bit and a jig I made specifically for this purpose that is clamped to the shelf to support the router from tipping. It works very well for me.
I had considered buying a lipping planner but my current set up has allowed me to do this without it.
I like your system and approach. It’s very efficient which is so important in our business of production finish work.
My system is still in wish stage. Im a deck and Screen porch builder who watches these videos for the "the grass is greener on the other side" effect. I want a shop like the kid in a Christmas story wanted a Daisy Red Rider BB Gun
I hear that. Except I want a "bigger" shop.
No, I really don’t think you can get anymore efficient, or any more fool proof; which means you need an apprentice!! Get a young guy, a boy, whatever have you. And let him do some of that routing!! You’ve got this set up so well in stages, he can do the next stage while you are finishing the first one, and then you pick up the 3rd one while he’s doing the 2nd. Granted, this comes down to money, but it’s an investment, and if you love what you do and don’t want to share it, that’s fine. But make no mistake Spencer, teaching an apprentice might be the most gratifying work you could ever do. Think about it!!!
Have you tried clamping two shelves together nose to nose. Get twice as much out out your clamps and the nosings act as a call.
Only short ones. It really needs continuous clamping pressure to make sure there is a nice invisible glue line.
I don’t have many cauls so I tend to clamp 2 shelves together so the nosings are in the middle and use the shelves as the cauls. Just need longer clamps is all
Thanks for alll these glorious vids. It's been a huge delight subbing all these years and projects and you are a great educator and your passion for what you do is super inspiring. Hope you are having a great weekend.
Great video as always, How did you dd that block of wood as an edge guide for the bosch 1617
9:30 international face of tradesmen using power tools
You should always glue both sides of the material it won't leave a black line like when you glue one side
Okay watched a lot of your videos, how do you keep that table saw top so pristine???
we miss you , almost 3 weeks no videos
Thanks, Yeah I was on vacation in Florida all last week and was a little burned out on editing before then. Should be back to weekly videos for a while.
Great work mate, I love your nail and crown of thorns logo!
Thank you! Cheers!
You can make these cauls as well. Hardwood tapered on the jointer or table saw with a jig.
Hope to see 5he finishing and install process. Great work 👏 👍
I’ll need to look into that ply prep bit. For my shelves the front edge is usually square. I use the freeborne lock miter shaper cutter to cut the shelves and the front edge. When I glue it up there’s no slipping or anything. Just a little bit of cleanup and you’re good to go. Obviously that wouldn’t work with a large profile.
I also like fastcaps FastBreak edge sander. Both the standard and large. It makes quick work of easing shelf edges.
For countertops I rabbet my edging. This let me route a profile in it but also helps align the edging. Plus it’s faster to sand 1/4” flush than a full 3/4”.
I lock miter or miter fold my live ends.
I can see the Collins bit being useful anywhere plywood attaches to hardwood, particularly where it needs to be flush. I’d probably use this on my cabinet bottoms and fixed shelves.
Thanks
thank you for another Awesome video!
You appear to have some cabinet shop experience... especially the way you rip that plywood
Great video Mr. Lewis. That convex bit is too damn cool. Thanks for the tip....once again I am envious of your shop space. Keep it up....you've come a long way from the days at CT and I only see you going further.
Appreciate your videos. Always have great tips and tricks! Thank you.
I've been doing architectural woodworking for all my life and I like your system, but does lock you into using veneer core panels for joint strength?
Interesting I hadn't really considered that. I'm not sure. I don't use any of the MDF core simply because the supplier I get my millwork from sells veneer core.
Respect to people who still buy but what's more important order them from a craftsman .
I just bought my first home. I cant wait to start doing the trim and other custom work around the house. Thanks a million for posting these how to videos. There going to help a lot.
Another excellent video, thanks. I’ll have to get try the router bit, it’s the only thing that I can afford😢. I see a lot of Paulk work benches in videos and they tend to be fairly pristine, yours, not so much and that’s a good thing.
Haha, I just got called a hack in another video because it was all cut up. LOL
Insider Carpentry A HACK?! Really!? I’d say your work and videos tell a different story.
Wanting to know if a spline would work the same way?
Spencer, I think if you were to use a 5 mm or a 6 mm domino, it would make quicker work of your process you are doing there. Also, Fastcap is going to be coming out with a domino-like piece that is made out of plastic and has reverse cuts in it so you can apply your edge treatment the way you are right now and you basically smack th piece onto the face of the shelf with the special plastic dominoes and it will hold your peace tight against the edge, to where you likely would not even need a clamp anymore. If you need a link, let me know and I will get one for you.
I've seen that domino and it looks promising!
Love the wood shop but it hurts to see a 3 car garage with no cars in it. :(
He probably has 10k just in Bessy clamps
I always learn something when I watch. The Collins bit will be in my router cabinet as soon as it's back in stock!
Yeah, its a bummer they ran out, but I'm sure they are getting more. They also have 1/4" bit on their website that may be in stock.
Amazing!!!
In as much as I appreciate your production methodology, I appreciate that you are a total tool junky like l am. Great lesson.
...........Hello, I see you have two different router bits listed as for Spiral Flush Trimming.
...........Which one do you use & what is the difference between the two.
The compression up/down is the one i like. Best of both worlds because the flutes cut inward from both directions.
Great Craftsmanship Work 🔨📐
Your videos are so well done. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the plywood prep bit idea, ive never heard of that before makes sense!
great video ! i would love to see how you built the boxes and drilled the shelf pin holes
Great looking shelves!
I am really learning a lot from your videos. Not to be nerdy, but I like how you talk about time savers and production runs. Very important to keep in mind. After seeing this one I have been watching a number of your other videos. But before I binge on your teaching I was wondering if you would comment on your training? Did you go trade school, college, apprenticeship, grow up in the business?
Thanks much.
Started in construction as soon as I could drive. Education, worked for multiple companies and a tone of internet research. I'd say I was trained by the internet.
Good workk like always. Do you make a groove on the inside of the cabinet for the shelf when you install them?
Drill holes for adjustable shelves with a line boring machine.
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks for the reply
Why don’t you just use 2” solid walnut for your shelves? Are not all of you clients multimillionaires or billionaires?
Oh this video is just for demonstration purposes only. I always use 2" solid walnut. :)
I think this is the 5th time I watched this video! Great work. Question: When you have nosings that wide (looks like about 3 1/2"), do you ever just just pocket screws to attach to save on time/clamping? Or, are you worried that you will still be able to see the pocket holes in the shelves that are installed up high?
That’s definitely an option. But being that I have the tools right there I use the cauls and clamps because I get a better glue line with them.
so this is all like rocket science for me 😳
Very good video. Just ordered the compression bit, didn’t know about that. I really like my lipping planer but that router setup rocks. I have every other Festool router but will probably go with a 1010 now as I groove edges for other reasons (weather stripping for example) and really like the potential. Thank-you for posting.
The 1010 is a really nice sized router. The 1400 is my favorite and most versatile.
Spencer, I really have learned a lot from your video content. I especially appreciate your explanations and demonstrations on coping moldings. I would like to purchase the Whiteside bit you use when applying shelf edging but I can't seem to find it in your Amazon store. Can you please give me some direction? Thanks again for taking time to share your knowledge.
That bit can only be purchased directly from Collins Tool Co. Google "collins plywood prep bit"
collinstool.com/tools/1-4-inch-ply-prep-router-bit/
It's nice to see tools that are used in a proper, professional manner.
Some very good information here. Just curious what you're using to break down sheet goods from full size? Do you get them rough cut to be more manageable from your supplier? Also do you have someone CNC your carcass parts?
I break down everything on my sawstop cabinet saw from full sheet size. No big deal for me.
Insider Carpentry I was only asking for the practical reasons since you build this stuff as a one person operation.
what is the led light on your Dewalt miter Saw 12"??? great videos....appreciate the knowledge...
Hey Spencer, do I need the Festool bearing kit 586534 for the lipping setup?
Thx
I am surprised that you do so much with poplar. Just because it has a green to it as well as it is soft. However I want to source the same but have struggled to find it. I do a lot of custom residential and multi family renovation/ repair work and the majority of that work includes quite a bit of finish carpentry.
As well, are you using 3/4” sanded pine for your sheet goods?
Fastcap makes the little lipper for flush trimming. I haven’t used it but heard good things and it’s a generic one size fits all, brand agnostic. I have some green tools but haven’t made the plunge to the of-1010, it does look nice look all things Festool. Your profiling looks nice! I agree with you on the Whiteside they have good carbide. I like Freud but I lean toward the made in the USA and buy Whiteside. For easing over your freehanding it or two stepping and using a 1/16 radius Klim cut and second pass or just following up with a swipe of 220/320 Granat? Great tip on the concave Collins tool/Whiteside!
I also have the fast cap flush trimming attachment. Its ok, but not great. I don't ever use it.
For easing, I just go one pass with a 5/32 radius whiteside bit, as long as it doesn't start skipping/hopping one pass is usually good enough for me.
Insider Carpentry so your edge profile was down with a 5/32 and a 1/8 (4/32) bearing to get that nice ogee detail? I don’t know where I saw the thumbnail profile it’s simpler and only gets one pass, instead of top and bottom, you can also use a thinner piece of material and do the glue up then route in the detail single pass. Hey it looks great what you’ve done... but I’m one that gets caught in the “10% rule” when I should have just gotten on with the next job? Once I go down that rabbit hole it’s tough to climb back up. You do have a good system though for batching out the profile. Thanks for the heads up on the fastcap little lipper! I’m wondering if you’ve used the Festool mfk-700 trim router for doing small profiles, I’m thinking that the attachments and DC are interchangeable?
Do you recommend the prep bit for melamine with MDF core?
I would think it would work fine.
Festool clamp hole is 20mm
*Plz follow-up on shelving video*
Are the shelves stationary or adjustable 🤔
Installation process, like kitchen cabinets 🤔
Painting before or after installing 🤔
Great to see you again 😊✝️
Adjustable, installed on 5mm shelf pins, painted onsite by painter.
I love the video. It's really good stuff. I was wondering though, couldn't the last flush trimming step with the 1010 router be eliminated if the nosing were attached using dominoes as there wouldn't be any lippage to remove, no? Keep up the great work!
Not with the size of the beading cut that I was using here. Any inconsistency would really show up quite a bit. Also the plywood I use can be a little wavy. I think it would actually take more time to mess with the dominoes.
@@InsiderCarpentry just saw a amazing product from fast cap called the little lipper which would turn any router into edge banding flush cutting setup just curious if you have ever seen or use this product?
i was thinking about getting the mfk700 for lipping planer use , out of curiosity what made you choose the 10 10 ?
The mfk is designed more for edge banding. The base plate requires modification if you want to do 3/4" plus edge banding. I felt the 1010 would be a better buy as its more versatile. But with the modification the mfk would be a great tool for this also. I just couldn't bring myself to spend that kind of money on what is essentially a palm router. I've very happy with the 1010 purchase.
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks makes sense
You have a fantastic shop!
🙌🏻 wizard ✌🏼
Wouldn't mind a quickie on that boom arm.
Big swivel caster wheel mounted to the ceiling with a 2" poplar dowel rod attached to it. Works like a charm.
Where’s you dog?
Looks like some Ron Paulk work bench designs
Yep, I use the dog holes a lot.
I build custom cabinets and i usually run a shallow dado on the back side of the nosing leaving a 1/8" lip on the top side of shelf. Seems to work pretty good nobody has complained yet.
What kind of trim is that , that you use. Its finger jointed I can see. Where do I get some
Awesome work