You know, I just did my entire 1450 sq ft home removing popcorn on my own (I'm 70+) with a garden hose. Yep, a bit wet, a bit messy, but that went so fast, and plastic sheet only up to just above the outlets, taped to the walls with some extra pushpins to prevent drop down. Fantastic thanks to Final Touch Drywall Justin McPadden, and just clean it up and take a shower! It's looking fantastic. Proud of myself.
When I was fixing ceilings as a job. We had scrapers with built-in bag holders under the blade. And a slot to stick a broom handle on the back. We got them at Home Depot.
You clearly are friends with electricians. Putting the boxes up for them and the old hitting the linesmans trick, I appreciate the shared knowledge you have
@@joekirby4529 Yes. That also works with a flat bar, too. I have an Estwing flat bar that has a recess around the claws that fits over the nail head. The longer the bar, the easier it is on your hand.
I'm 70 and have been doing DIY electrical since age 23 when I had to go to a library to find out that a turning a light on from 2 locations actually required a special switch! LOL! Besides-reno/re-wiring all my kids houses, I built my own homes and wired them all. I can't recall an inspector who didn't compliment me on my work. In retirement, I bought a new house (the first I hadn't built myself) in another jurisdiction where I wasn't allowed to pull a homeowner permit to wire the unfinished basement. Having wired my whole life and suddenly not be allowed to my own work, in perhaps the last large project of my life--No Way! Told my story to the electrical contractor for this build and they kindly agreed to pull the permit and carry out all inspections at a per hour rate (since it's covid, no public electrical inspectors are allowed to enter occupied private residences). That they did, 1 hr at rough-in, 1 hr for final. Not sure the point of this comment, except to say a wise and common sense electrical contractor found a way around unnecessary bureaucracy to help out an aging DIYer who still knows what he was doing. GK
I've always laid down that heavy-duty packing construction paper on the ground; comes in huge roles that I ask to buy off a local shipper. Catches the mess and soaks up the extra water. Just roll it up and toss it when you're done.
Looking to buy a home in the mountains with some land. All the properties have popcorn ceilings. You guys are so helpful to prepare us for our inevitable renovations. Love you. Paul is a natural teacher, natural on camera, a pleasure to binge-watch. A home reno star.
Got a tip. Get the scraper with a bag holder from HD. Instead of using a bag, make a long plastic chute that goes to a garbage can. Then your helper can just slide the can around as you work. I did this a few years ago and it worked great!
I’m happy for you guys, glad to see your channel taking off! I watch tons of these types of videos on RUclips and your is definitely very informative and full of tons of helpful tips and Tricks for your viewers. Keep up the good work guys!
The skimming blade is the way to go. It has upped my drywall game significantly! It really decreased the amount of time I spend on butt and intersecting joints, decreased sanding time, and dramatically improved the quality of the finish.
I picked up the 32" Level5 blade you mentioned to skim my ceilings. The texture was painted over several times and wasn't scraping. Ended up rolling on thinned out mud and hit it with the blade -- thing works amazing! Pick one up, you won't regret it.
Well, Stud Pack, you got me, in all the years of watching youtube, your the first and only channel I have notifications turned on for. Thanks for the great, and informative videos, keep em rolling !!!
be careful! I was the same year... watching youtube since mid 2000's and never subscribed to anything.... until last year... now I have about 25 subscriptions. lol
I use a 12” drywall knife and hold a garbage can lid upside down. Catches 90% of the popcorn as it falls off. Need to empty the can lid often, but much cleaner method 👍
I’m a night shift nurse, watching your videos on my downtime - love you guys!! Excited to put what I’ve learned to use on a home my husband and I are in the works of buying. Can’t wait to show HIM how to get it done! Keep it up, I look forward to each new video!!
as a former security installer I can tell you it was common to put sirens in the cold air returns in the 80's and 90's since there was no decent looking wall mount available back then - about 94 they started making the white surface mount sirens/speakers... the 80's were a very different time in many ways - still had a rotary phone and cassette players.
If the popcorn has never been painted then warm water helps - you can even use a paint roller (with no paint) and just water to wet it down or a spray bottle. But the objective isn't to make it sopping wet, only to mist or roll a little water to soak in to what what is mostly cellulose fibers. I've done enough of it and the work sucks, but to be honest to do it over I would say knock down the high parts and add 1/4" or 1/2" drywall OVER with acoustic caulk you'll get better sound reduction, in theory fire resistance, and a much less labor.
Good point! Taking it off after it has been painted is a terrible job. Knock down the high spots and skim over the bulk of it - way better approach, imo.
Love the channel guys! I've "removed" popcorn ceiling 3 ways now in my house. First was putting new drywall right over the old ceiling. Second, skimming drywall mud and third was scrapping. I actual liked putting new drywall up right over the old ceiling.
Did you at least drill all the way into the studs for the new drywall?😂 hope it doesn’t fall out bro that’s 2 heavy sheets of drywall coming down on you
@@StudPack For the HVAC. You need a balanced Air system. Air in = air out. Having one central return for a house like that isn't going to be enough. I'll explain that in a bit. As for the 2 supplies in the living room from what it looks like one side of the room will be getting the air. So having one on each end in opposing corners (think X) should be enough to cover the air supply for that room and help balance the heat/cool load. On to the return issue. As I said air in must equal air out. So I.e. if you have 100 cfm air supply into a room you'd want 100cfm out in an ideal world. Which is why each bedroom should have 1 supply and 1 return. Bathroom's and Kitchens do not get a return for obvious reasons. What that system is doing is relying on 1 central return for those areas and the rest of the house which is going to make the system pull through the entire house and restrict air flow. Even just adding a small return in that open area would help greatly and should help improve the air flow/balance for that side of the house. TBH every house should have a "Summer" and "Winter" return. Since during the summer you want to displace heat and in winter the cold. So having a high return for summer to remove the hot air and a lower return (like the one in the hall) for winter to remove the cold air from the floor. Also, that system may be too small for the house. IDK for sure. There are calculations for system size, air balance and duct sizing based on the total sq ft of the home being Heated/Cooled. Having the slide cards really helps with this for quick calculations. If the blower is too small to pull and distribute the air the house will have balance issues. To prevent further issues an HVAC tech should come out and check to make sure the unit is the correct size for the house and an air balance test should be performed after all the walls and vents are in place.
Something I thought of the other day with your temporary placement of the alarm panel - The alarm panel placement should be based on 2 things 1. ease of access/use of the end user. 2. not so easy access/use of someone who shouldn't be in the house. So, if it's visible from the outside before breaking in, it may have lights on it showing that it's armed/disarmed and that would be a bad thing. Placing it on the current location looks like it makes it visible through the window of that entrance door. It may be better to place it on the new pocket door that's facing into the kitchen.
Man you are blessed with how easy that came off the ceiling! The last place I did that at, they didn’t want to move the furniture out of the rooms, so I layered plastic and taped it an inch below the ceiling. Not a particle anywhere after I rolled it all up carefully. Overlapping made all the difference
I’ve always scraped popcorn ceiling by using a scraper and attaching a vacuum hose. This I’ve found to be the best solution. I always use a dust deputy connected to my rigid vac. Helps with capacity and adds the required hose length.
I have a suggestion. After you set your first box, reset the laser to the top or bottom of that box. That way you don't have to mark centers and fumble around. Just line up the top or bottom with the laser line and done.
That works if all your boxes are the same height. Unfortunately, you will often be dealing with more than one kind of box of varying heights, which means you need to work off the center line if you want them all to be aligned.
@@ThePlockets not really. Set your laser at 48", or whatever you want your box height. Set bottom of all switch boxes there. Use it as a reference mark for the rest. Just measure 36" down from the laser for a receptacle, etc. Not that big of a deal
Most boxes I’ve used have a center indicator of some sort, and If they don’t just mark it before nailing up, so it’s no big deal at all to work from centerlines. Doing so will give you perfect cover plate alignment which is what you’re after.
I have in the past used 1/4 drywall over the existing popcorn ceiling using compound and drywall laminating screws. It's not a bad alternative to scrapping and cleaning up the mess.
For the HVAC. You need a balanced Air system. Air in = air out. Having one central return for a house like that isn't going to be enough. I'll explain that in a bit. As for the 2 supplies in the living room from what it looks like one side of the room will be getting the air. So having one on each end in opposing corners (think X) should be enough to cover the air supply for that room and help balance the heat/cool load. On to the return issue. As I said air in must equal air out. So I.e. if you have 100 cfm air supply into a room you'd want 100cfm out in an ideal world. Which is why each bedroom should have 1 supply and 1 return. Bathroom's and Kitchens do not get a return for obvious reasons. What that system is doing is relying on 1 central return for those areas and the rest of the house which is going to make the system pull through the entire house and restrict air flow. Even just adding a small return in that open area would help greatly and should help improve the air flow/balance for that side of the house. TBH every house should have a "Summer" and "Winter" return. Since during the summer you want to displace heat and in winter the cold. So having a high return for summer to remove the hot air and a lower return (like the one in the hall) for winter to remove the cold air from the floor. Also, that system may be too small for the house. IDK for sure. There are calculations for system size, air balance and duct sizing based on the total sq ft of the home being Heated/Cooled. Having the slide cards really helps with this for quick calculations. If the blower is too small to pull and distribute the air the house will have balance issues. To prevent further issues an HVAC tech should come out and check to make sure the unit is the correct size for the house and an air balance test should be performed after all the walls and vents are in place. (Edit) Forgot to mention that placing the vents over the windows is 100% true HVAC style. It creates an Air Curtain at the windows since glass is a poor insulator and will help reduce the ambient temp bleed into the home.
@@scottyee707 Your Welcome! There is a lot that goes into comfort heating/cooling. Often the most neglected aspect is air balancing. Which people often complain that a certain room or rooms aren't being heated/cooled like the others and that is 100% an air balance issue. Also, I forgot to mention use insulation cement around joints/seams followed by Aluminum tape for a nice look since the cement looks bad....really bad but it's the best for preventing air leaks in the duct system!
I'm and hvac contractor alongside my dad like you two, i love it. Keep it up. I dont think you will gain much moving the 2 vents in the living room. You can, but if so, upsize the boots to 12×8's with 8 inch duct and 1-way ceiling grills. If you leave them I'd still upsize the boots and the duct if its not an 8in and put 2-way ceiling grills. Hope that helps!
Our basement was asbestos popcorn. It was a painful amount to have a team remove it but it was a part of a larger project and the process an asbestos mitigation team goes through is incredibly meticulous. They left it the cleanest work site I’ve ever seen.
I agree 100% I am getting into remodeling and know basic plumbing and electrical both of which require me to have 4 years working as a plumber and electrician to become licensed.
I have a 24 inch skimming blade. I highly recommend it. I also recommend getting the pole to mount it on. I use a 3/4 nap roller, roll some watered down mud, and skim it smooth. You'll love it. Your fan, Kevin
Really appreciate all the electrical tips and tricks. Stripping Romex used to drive me nuts. Half the time d cut the wire and have to start over. Your trick of just scoring it made a huge dif.
The electrical part was something I always wondered. It seemed like some videos you guys did all the wire pulling but had electricians actually connect stuff up which I thought was a way to save money. Now hearing the story it makes much more sense. I can 100% say watching you guys do electrical results in work that looks a lot better than a fair bit of stuff I ran into doing A/V stuff. I got a bit of crash course on electrical from my dad who was licensed but thankfully haven't had to do any high voltage stuff yet!
I just skim coated right over a heavy popcorn ceiling. I used an electric ceiling sander that has a vacuum attached to take some of the big stuff off. Made no mess hardly at all and was super quick. Skim coating was pretty easy too.
If I was the homeowner, I would replace that pink R11 fiberglass with Rockwool anywhere you see it in the walls. Also ask you to spray some foam at any possible holes & cracks to the outside.
Stud pack and coffee this morning, YES! Have to say felt for you guys scraping that popcorn ceiling. I decided to do this myself at our mountain home when we lived in California and what a mess. Never again for me so I could appreciate what you guys went through. Great Job!
Suggestion from an electrician. Take the plare off of the receptacle or switch you're trying to match the height on and set your level to the top of the box. It makes it a LOT easier than trying to loom on the side for a center mark. Great job guys. Love watching your videos. Your work reminds me of my uncles' who uave been working by word of mouth for 25 years now
I used to that until one project the boxes were different sizes so now I use center lines. I’ve thought about lining up the laser with the top hole for the device. Awesome thx Red 👍💪👊
I love how most comments are about electrical and not drywall. Most electricians will file if person knows there craft in Louisiana. I have a electrical contractor that would be willing to file if code enforcers bust me. I'm a in process of removing popcorn ceilings. I used water method with soap paint sprayer it is a mess. Also dry sanding with shop vacuum with 9in electric orbital. Also Dry scraping. All methods generated an incredible amount of dust throughout house. I think I might just skim coat the entire ceiling least amount of mess. With 5 min. Mud. Just make small batches and make my way across ceiling. I'm not going for a level 5 finish i just want orange peel instead. Great videos btw I love working with dad now that he is in 70s he is doing less and less projects.
If you are a single person (no helper) scrapping popcorn, consider my technique. I use a garden sprayer and start to dampen the ceiling a section at a time. I use a small scaffold (for ceilings 8-10’ high) and a metal paint roller tray and a wide metal plaster tool with the corners dulled. I scrap it into the tray, and as it fills, I head over to a kitchen size trash can and dispose of the stuff. It is relatively less messy, and easily doable by a single worker. After all cleaned off, I skim coated it with topping compound. Quick!
5 gallon homer bucket finish all purpose mud 1/2 nap for paint, thin out mud and roll a 1/16th to an 8th inch of mud across ceiling works beautifully. The trowel out smooth.
Here in the UK, you can wire a house yourself HOWEVER it WILL need certifying & registering with the local council as conforming to regulation. This is a good option for a small builder who is competent enough to understand the Regulations. He can do it all on his time. He MUST however, not cover anything over [box-work or flooring etc. before his certifying Sparky has seen it ALL and tested it. If the Sparky can't see the clipping, bends, terminations, conduits etc., then they won't test or certify it. If you are just making a minor move of a circuit or changing terminations [ socket/switch etc. ] then no inspection is required as the correct cables should already be routed to those points. This is primarily to prevent idiots using the wrong weight cables, then not supporting them correctly or maybe hiding them under insulation and not accounting for the reduced dissipation of heat etc. And on and on....... Looking at the wiring in my house I will assume the builder went out drinking with the sparky who certified it. [ plug socket running off a lighting circuit, upstairs sockets linked into the downstairs circuit. Got to test EVERYTHING carefully in my house, before working on it.
Looks great 👍 Removing acoustic try with one layer of plastic to protect walls and two layers of plastic to protect the floor Glue together wall plastic and bottom layer of plastic with 77 glue top layer don't glue it. Once the scraping is done you remove the top plastic layer and the bottom stays clean we use .7 mil plastic
Long as you know what you doing. I know lots of electricians leaving comments. But you guys know what you doing why im a subscriber . Keep up the good work im always leaning from this channel. Goodstuff. Build On buddy
Got a buddy, we were in the Marines together 40 yrs ago, who is more qualified in building, carpentry, repair/ remodel, and trim, than most people in the business. He worked with an electrical contractor for a while, commercial on a military base, and residential. He knew more than most of the permanent ,full time ,electricians.
I've done the same thing. But I didn't go the garden hose route, instead I used a 1 gal pump sprayer to wet the ceiling as I could better control the amount of water then scraped. And did the trash can catch as well. Worked great with very little mess. Luckily I didn't have vaulted ceiling but it still took a bit longer.
70K!!!!! Man this channel has grown. I remember when like 20 comments was a lot. Now you fellas are over 200 to 300 every video! Another great episode.
I'm a fan of canvas drop cloths. They don't get slippery, if you happen to step into a paint drip, a few steps pretty much cleans off the shoe so you won't track it every where and the paint will dry more quickly on the cloth than the plastic. I've used canvas drop cloths on the popcorn removal, just get enough to cover the whole room, put the plastic on the walls and have at it. Once done, roll them up take to the dumpster and shake them out. They only get slightly damp on the job and clean floors. Wash them up in the laundromat with heavy duty washers.
I wholeheartedly agree with your comment on not be able to do your own electrical work. As a homeowner, I want to take classes and learn this stuff. There is no middle ground, it's a shame.
Hard to prevent a homeowner from doing his own electrical. And I've seen the a little of the worst, while helping a neighbor remodel a previous remodel. Hidden splices (yup, unboxed and apparently splices) everywhere. I don't know what was going on behind that big wad of tape around them. And lines laying across and even one was run inside a heating duct. Even a non-electrician (me) can tell at a glance that it's wrong.
I've lived all over California - including San Diego, San Bernandino, Santa Barbara, the Bay Area, and Eureka; now live in the south. Knowing what I do about regulations in California it blows my mind that there was more flexibility in California for you to be able to do things than there is in Louisiana.
Taping of plastic to protect the walls is about 2 feet below the ceiling. I use my airless paint sprayer to apply water on the popcorn. This aids in peeling of the wall tape.
I use a power drywall sander with 80 grit and dust extractor to sand popcorn off. Saves the shoulders and time. This came off nicely for you guys though.
In the 2x4 walls use “stackers” to hold the wires to the 2x4. A staple can only hold 2 Romex any more than that won’t have the 1 1/4 nail space. You can get them from depot or Lowe’s
just adding some ideas I use. I run a drywall screw thru each electrical box right down the middle. with the two nails and the screw, they never loosen no matter how much use they get and it helps keep the un nailed side from leaning inward of the drywal
As a homeowner, I've wired all my own remodels in both of the houses I've owned without issue. Yes, had the rough in and final inspections too. Even I know not to use the blue pos boxes the stores sell. If you're the good guy you seem to be, get the homeowner some decent deep boxes that'll last for the little bit more they cost.
That's some good electrical experience. I have much of a similar story. Working in a commercial office building while shadowing and assisting the electrical contractors. I understood everything you explained is pretty cut and dry. The buss bars are literally flat copper plates that come half inch, three quarter or someone 1 inch thick that make a permanent connection with copper bolts and washers as well usually used on a higher amperage applications. good work 👍💪
They do annual and 3 year maintenance on the switch gear here in NYC. Meaning torqing down the bolts, and cleaning the bus bars no real chance for oxidation development hence the reason they use all like materials
Mini detail for the new outlet where the wing wall was removed. In Alachua Co, FL, the inspectors will fail use of cables entering a single gang box using the opening next to the stud. Be sure to check your local requirements.
We did popcorn removal like this all the time with a somewhat similar initial application: draped 48"-96" film on every wall. Caught water/popcorn drippage and had the ceiling prepped for painting the next day. Then we'd spray the popcorn ceiling with 2' wand on a paint sprayer (adding Krud Kutter or Dawn to the water if the ceiling was painted... with a longer wait time before scraping if painted). Very little overspray with the wand right up close (we're both 5'7"). Radically different action: My partner would hang a king-sized mattress bag on our 2'x4' large-wheeled anti-scuff wheeled scaffold. We blue-taped the bag to the 4 top corners of the scaffold and put the 2 step boards under the bag (usually the 2nd or 3rd step down from the top) to be able to hold a lot of material in the bag, while still easily moving every scrap of material from the entire job until it ended. After prepping the scaffold bag, I'd stilt up, grab a 6" drywall knife for each hand, and he would push (or pull) the scaffold around the room in front of me... as I scraped with each hand. Because I only used 6" knives, could get better than 95% of the popcorn scrapings and water directed right into the bag, but it was still a very fast scrape. (He could respray with the wand if it was a big job and started to dry, but we moved so fast, that rarely happened.) Then at the very end of the entire scraping job we could either leave the bag on the scaffold (to dry a little overnight), or just tape the bag closed (in place), roll the scaffold out to the dumpster, and roll the bag off the scaffold into the dumpster one time. We also would get the adhesive floor coverings from Sherwin Williams. CONS of the floor adhesive is it can only be on for a few days (so we'd make sure when it went on we could be finished up in 4-14 days) and it's expensive. PROS are: the floor is sealed, adhesive plastic doesn't slip, all floors can be swept or mopped (at end of each day), paint spills & overspray don't leak thru, and at the end of the job... not only is the floor is more clean than when we started, but also, the entire final floor cleanup was less than 2 hours (if we didn't do any floor work beside walls and ceilings).
@@StudPack We hated popcorn jobs too, but we'd charge double the going rate, and doing it this way we halved our time. Got a lot of referral jobs even charging so high because we'd guarantee to keep the customer's house immaculate, no wall, window, or crown stains, and the dust would be minimal (never used the power sander, only a fast wipe with a Radius360 if there were any edges to knock down afterward).
Aluminum hvac grills! Solid new point! Hate that rust especially here in the South! I wouldn't worry about moving the hvac in the living room. Solid work by moving to windows. Switch to Wago electric nuts, so much better than wire nuts. Well worth the extra money and saves so much space in the box!
I adore the dynamic of your duo. Great work both on the renos and the channel. FYI In Québec, Canada, you cannot have wires come in a metal box without wire protection from the metal edge of the dox. It is to prevent the wire to be cut from the sharp edge and cause an arc.
@@StudPack a quicker way to do it is to cut the grounds even and add a new ground wire (or 2 or 3, depending on how many you need) and twist together with a wire nut (tan or red depending on how many wires and sizing).
Electrical box: Don't laser to the center, laser to the top screw hole into which the switch or outlet mounts - saves having to mark the center line of all the boxes.
It's very satisfying to watch that popcorn come down. Maybe there's a contractor that does nothing but scraping popcorn off ceilings? They could start up a RUclips channel like Doctor Pimple Popper, with nothing but removing bad ceiling choices...
My company does that over here in MN but most of the time people paint over popcorn to stop it from falling down and to try to get rid of the dust and cobwebs. Most of the time it's not removing it as much as it's a skimcoat over it to make it smooth
I love the way you guys do this but I opted to pull our old kitchen and dining room ceilings down (not as high up) and we ended up leveling the ceiling moving some vents and then reinstalling to make them flat. My wife then had us do the main bathroom, the master bedroom, the spare bedroom, and now we are moving on to the other bedrooms and office. Wish we had scraped them now but our vacation house is older (1973) and it has settled such that leveling the ceilings and reframing floors is a must. Great video. When we did our floors we found that they had used two 16 foot 2 x 8's as floor joists. In the middle, they had laid bricks on the slab and overlapped the 16 footers on bricks in the middle to go the entire 30 foot span. That was why we had a huge hump down the middle of both rooms. Needless to say, when we redid it all, we did it right. Got our tips from you guys. Thanks.
Also, your point about not being able to do electricity, same here in the UK as far as I'm aware I did my 3 phase and got my certificate way back in 89, but because I've not kept up to date with all the courses over the past 32 years with all the updated regulations I can't sign any of my work off I can buy it, and fit it, I just can't call it legal until its checked out I suppose its all there for a reason though, electricians got to get paid too 😉 Anyway, you must have so much work booked up you'll probably have Jordans kids helping out to finish it up Keep up the good work guys 👍👍👍👍👍
On those tight spots, you might want to consider using the Madison Electric Smart (electrical) Box. A little more expensive but the mounting screws are inside the box so you don’t have to use lineman pliers and hammer to install. The Smart Box is good for both new and old work.
Speaking of hot water. We removed an acoustical ceiling from a concrete shop building we were using by turning a fire hose on the ceiling. It removed the material and washed it out the door but it also turned a room of about 30 x 30 into a sauna. This was in the north bay of California in the summer. I enjoy hearing more about your background and how things have changed.
Crazy to think those ceilings have probably been there since the 80s and never was painted. I feel like ceilings need a fresh coat every 10 years or so depending on the sun in the room. Also got my stud pack shirt yesterday!
How did mud and tape go after you got the popcorn down? The main reason they did popcorn seems to be to get away with quick and sloppy drywall work. The bumpy texture hides bumpy joints.
That scraping. Have you thought about using an small bucket hanging under the scraper, modified in a way with a pvc pipe along the stick and a wet vac connected to it.?
Wish I could paste a picture here, but you get the idea. like a sink , the popcorn / wet debris falls in the bucket and under the bucket is an hole with drain pipe and connect the hose from the vac to that. Go try it one afternoon. :) Great jobs you are doing !
When doing popcorn ceiling removal ive found that if the ceiling has not been painted to dry scrape the popcorn then skim coat the enitire areea with plus 3 drywall compound its dusty but way better than all that wet mess and if the ceiling has been painted mud over it !!! Hope this helps
HVAC guy here. Have a tech come in and look at the supply/return ductwork and make sure you are sized right for your system. I don’t like “central returns” because they can make the farthest away rooms uncomfortable. Also those high ceilings can trap heat. A return grill up there might make that room more comfortable.
I've done this a few times, the finished ceiling looks great afterwards. I still don't know who in their right mind thought popcorn ceiling looked great back in the day. Great job guys !
we scraped popcorn ceiling in our 1800 sq ft fixer upper. We did it while all the flooring was out (bare concrete) and hired people to help scrape and clean floors as we went. It was a huge mess. Almost a bigger problem was how poorly the drywall tape was installed under the popcorn. Almost all of the tape corners between walls and ceiling needed to be or should have been replaced. Most of the butt joints lacked compound under the tape. Even the tapered edges lacked mud under the tape and needed work.
You know, I just did my entire 1450 sq ft home removing popcorn on my own (I'm 70+) with a garden hose. Yep, a bit wet, a bit messy, but that went so fast, and plastic sheet only up to just above the outlets, taped to the walls with some extra pushpins to prevent drop down. Fantastic thanks to Final Touch Drywall Justin McPadden, and just clean it up and take a shower! It's looking fantastic. Proud of myself.
When I was fixing ceilings as a job. We had scrapers with built-in bag holders under the blade. And a slot to stick a broom handle on the back. We got them at Home Depot.
Awesome, I am going to get this!
That Home Depot scraper works really good,
You clearly are friends with electricians. Putting the boxes up for them and the old hitting the linesmans trick, I appreciate the shared knowledge you have
Thanks 👍
@@StudPack That lineman's trick is the cat's pajamas.
@@joekirby4529 Yes. That also works with a flat bar, too. I have an Estwing flat bar that has a recess around the claws that fits over the nail head. The longer the bar, the easier it is on your hand.
I'm 70 and have been doing DIY electrical since age 23 when I had to go to a library to find out that a turning a light on from 2 locations actually required a special switch! LOL! Besides-reno/re-wiring all my kids houses, I built my own homes and wired them all. I can't recall an inspector who didn't compliment me on my work. In retirement, I bought a new house (the first I hadn't built myself) in another jurisdiction where I wasn't allowed to pull a homeowner permit to wire the unfinished basement. Having wired my whole life and suddenly not be allowed to my own work, in perhaps the last large project of my life--No Way! Told my story to the electrical contractor for this build and they kindly agreed to pull the permit and carry out all inspections at a per hour rate (since it's covid, no public electrical inspectors are allowed to enter occupied private residences). That they did, 1 hr at rough-in, 1 hr for final. Not sure the point of this comment, except to say a wise and common sense electrical contractor found a way around unnecessary bureaucracy to help out an aging DIYer who still knows what he was doing. GK
that could be risky on the electrician. i wouldnt want to risk my good name on some old kook(;
I've always laid down that heavy-duty packing construction paper on the ground; comes in huge roles that I ask to buy off a local shipper. Catches the mess and soaks up the extra water. Just roll it up and toss it when you're done.
Looking to buy a home in the mountains with some land. All the properties have popcorn ceilings. You guys are so helpful to prepare us for our inevitable renovations. Love you. Paul is a natural teacher, natural on camera, a pleasure to binge-watch. A home reno star.
Got a tip. Get the scraper with a bag holder from HD. Instead of using a bag, make a long plastic chute that goes to a garbage can. Then your helper can just slide the can around as you work. I did this a few years ago and it worked great!
Cool thx Chris!
I’m happy for you guys, glad to see your channel taking off! I watch tons of these types of videos on RUclips and your is definitely very informative and full of tons of helpful tips and Tricks for your viewers.
Keep up the good work guys!
Thx Jeff 👍👊
The skimming blade is the way to go. It has upped my drywall game significantly! It really decreased the amount of time I spend on butt and intersecting joints, decreased sanding time, and dramatically improved the quality of the finish.
Thx Kurt 👍
I picked up the 32" Level5 blade you mentioned to skim my ceilings. The texture was painted over several times and wasn't scraping. Ended up rolling on thinned out mud and hit it with the blade -- thing works amazing! Pick one up, you won't regret it.
👍💪👊
Well, Stud Pack, you got me, in all the years of watching youtube, your the first and only channel I have notifications turned on for. Thanks for the great, and informative videos, keep em rolling !!!
It's an honor Dropkick thank you!
be careful! I was the same year... watching youtube since mid 2000's and never subscribed to anything.... until last year... now I have about 25 subscriptions. lol
I use a 12” drywall knife and hold a garbage can lid upside down. Catches 90% of the popcorn as it falls off. Need to empty the can lid often, but much cleaner method 👍
I’m a night shift nurse, watching your videos on my downtime - love you guys!! Excited to put what I’ve learned to use on a home my husband and I are in the works of buying. Can’t wait to show HIM how to get it done! Keep it up, I look forward to each new video!!
Thx shalyn 👍
as a former security installer I can tell you it was common to put sirens in the cold air returns in the 80's and 90's since there was no decent looking wall mount available back then - about 94 they started making the white surface mount sirens/speakers... the 80's were a very different time in many ways - still had a rotary phone and cassette players.
Return air is one thing but a supply duct? I loved my Walkman with the "find the next song" feature 👍
That most likely wasn’t a pre wired job. Sometimes you can’t get a wire to where you’d like to put a device. They just made do.
If the popcorn has never been painted then warm water helps - you can even use a paint roller (with no paint) and just water to wet it down or a spray bottle. But the objective isn't to make it sopping wet, only to mist or roll a little water to soak in to what what is mostly cellulose fibers.
I've done enough of it and the work sucks, but to be honest to do it over I would say knock down the high parts and add 1/4" or 1/2" drywall OVER with acoustic caulk you'll get better sound reduction, in theory fire resistance, and a much less labor.
Good point! Taking it off after it has been painted is a terrible job. Knock down the high spots and skim over the bulk of it - way better approach, imo.
Love the channel guys! I've "removed" popcorn ceiling 3 ways now in my house. First was putting new drywall right over the old ceiling. Second, skimming drywall mud and third was scrapping. I actual liked putting new drywall up right over the old ceiling.
Bruhhhh you put a ceiling on a ceiling?!
Did you at least drill all the way into the studs for the new drywall?😂 hope it doesn’t fall out bro that’s 2 heavy sheets of drywall coming down on you
@@AquariumAficionado Sure did!
1. We love Studpack
B. We love Studpack
III. We love Studpack
😂 I didn’t think anyone would catch that. We have some attentive viewers 👍💪👊
@@StudPack For the HVAC. You need a balanced Air system. Air in = air out. Having one central return for a house like that isn't going to be enough. I'll explain that in a bit. As for the 2 supplies in the living room from what it looks like one side of the room will be getting the air. So having one on each end in opposing corners (think X) should be enough to cover the air supply for that room and help balance the heat/cool load.
On to the return issue. As I said air in must equal air out. So I.e. if you have 100 cfm air supply into a room you'd want 100cfm out in an ideal world. Which is why each bedroom should have 1 supply and 1 return. Bathroom's and Kitchens do not get a return for obvious reasons. What that system is doing is relying on 1 central return for those areas and the rest of the house which is going to make the system pull through the entire house and restrict air flow. Even just adding a small return in that open area would help greatly and should help improve the air flow/balance for that side of the house.
TBH every house should have a "Summer" and "Winter" return. Since during the summer you want to displace heat and in winter the cold. So having a high return for summer to remove the hot air and a lower return (like the one in the hall) for winter to remove the cold air from the floor.
Also, that system may be too small for the house. IDK for sure. There are calculations for system size, air balance and duct sizing based on the total sq ft of the home being Heated/Cooled. Having the slide cards really helps with this for quick calculations. If the blower is too small to pull and distribute the air the house will have balance issues. To prevent further issues an HVAC tech should come out and check to make sure the unit is the correct size for the house and an air balance test should be performed after all the walls and vents are in place.
Something I thought of the other day with your temporary placement of the alarm panel - The alarm panel placement should be based on 2 things
1. ease of access/use of the end user.
2. not so easy access/use of someone who shouldn't be in the house.
So, if it's visible from the outside before breaking in, it may have lights on it showing that it's armed/disarmed and that would be a bad thing. Placing it on the current location looks like it makes it visible through the window of that entrance door. It may be better to place it on the new pocket door that's facing into the kitchen.
Thx. Still discussing the final location.
Man you are blessed with how easy that came off the ceiling! The last place I did that at, they didn’t want to move the furniture out of the rooms, so I layered plastic and taped it an inch below the ceiling. Not a particle anywhere after I rolled it all up carefully. Overlapping made all the difference
I’ve always scraped popcorn ceiling by using a scraper and attaching a vacuum hose. This I’ve found to be the best solution. I always use a dust deputy connected to my rigid vac. Helps with capacity and adds the required hose length.
I have a suggestion. After you set your first box, reset the laser to the top or bottom of that box. That way you don't have to mark centers and fumble around. Just line up the top or bottom with the laser line and done.
That works if all your boxes are the same height. Unfortunately, you will often be dealing with more than one kind of box of varying heights, which means you need to work off the center line if you want them all to be aligned.
@@ThePlockets if you are installing new boxes, it would be smarter if you get same boxes
@@ThePlockets not really. Set your laser at 48", or whatever you want your box height. Set bottom of all switch boxes there. Use it as a reference mark for the rest. Just measure 36" down from the laser for a receptacle, etc. Not that big of a deal
Most boxes I’ve used have a center indicator of some sort, and If they don’t just mark it before nailing up, so it’s no big deal at all to work from centerlines. Doing so will give you perfect cover plate alignment which is what you’re after.
Be thankful for the relationship you guys have its something special
"while we are taking about relocating...relocate your mouse to the like button" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That was smooth...
Who can say no to that? LOL
I have in the past used 1/4 drywall over the existing popcorn ceiling using compound and drywall laminating screws. It's not a bad alternative to scrapping and cleaning up the mess.
Same!
For the HVAC. You need a balanced Air system. Air in = air out. Having one central return for a house like that isn't going to be enough. I'll explain that in a bit. As for the 2 supplies in the living room from what it looks like one side of the room will be getting the air. So having one on each end in opposing corners (think X) should be enough to cover the air supply for that room and help balance the heat/cool load.
On to the return issue. As I said air in must equal air out. So I.e. if you have 100 cfm air supply into a room you'd want 100cfm out in an ideal world. Which is why each bedroom should have 1 supply and 1 return. Bathroom's and Kitchens do not get a return for obvious reasons. What that system is doing is relying on 1 central return for those areas and the rest of the house which is going to make the system pull through the entire house and restrict air flow. Even just adding a small return in that open area would help greatly and should help improve the air flow/balance for that side of the house.
TBH every house should have a "Summer" and "Winter" return. Since during the summer you want to displace heat and in winter the cold. So having a high return for summer to remove the hot air and a lower return (like the one in the hall) for winter to remove the cold air from the floor.
Also, that system may be too small for the house. IDK for sure. There are calculations for system size, air balance and duct sizing based on the total sq ft of the home being Heated/Cooled. Having the slide cards really helps with this for quick calculations. If the blower is too small to pull and distribute the air the house will have balance issues. To prevent further issues an HVAC tech should come out and check to make sure the unit is the correct size for the house and an air balance test should be performed after all the walls and vents are in place.
(Edit)
Forgot to mention that placing the vents over the windows is 100% true HVAC style. It creates an Air Curtain at the windows since glass is a poor insulator and will help reduce the ambient temp bleed into the home.
Thx gunshin! Lots of good info 👍
thanks for the info!
@@scottyee707 Your Welcome! There is a lot that goes into comfort heating/cooling. Often the most neglected aspect is air balancing. Which people often complain that a certain room or rooms aren't being heated/cooled like the others and that is 100% an air balance issue. Also, I forgot to mention use insulation cement around joints/seams followed by Aluminum tape for a nice look since the cement looks bad....really bad but it's the best for preventing air leaks in the duct system!
When I did mine I just attached the scraper to the end of my ShopVac and 95% dropped into the ShopVac, just have a handy filter on hand.
I was about to suggest the same thing.
I'm and hvac contractor alongside my dad like you two, i love it. Keep it up. I dont think you will gain much moving the 2 vents in the living room. You can, but if so, upsize the boots to 12×8's with 8 inch duct and 1-way ceiling grills. If you leave them I'd still upsize the boots and the duct if its not an 8in and put 2-way ceiling grills. Hope that helps!
It helps a lot thx 👍
Our basement was asbestos popcorn. It was a painful amount to have a team remove it but it was a part of a larger project and the process an asbestos mitigation team goes through is incredibly meticulous. They left it the cleanest work site I’ve ever seen.
I agree 100% I am getting into remodeling and know basic plumbing and electrical both of which require me to have 4 years working as a plumber and electrician to become licensed.
I have a 24 inch skimming blade. I highly recommend it. I also recommend getting the pole to mount it on. I use a 3/4 nap roller, roll some watered down mud, and skim it smooth. You'll love it. Your fan, Kevin
Thx Kevin 👍
Really appreciate all the electrical tips and tricks. Stripping Romex used to drive me nuts. Half the time d cut the wire and have to start over. Your trick of just scoring it made a huge dif.
At 15:10 in Calif. for that kit vent you can't drill through that king stud. I know it's existing, just a little info.
The electrical part was something I always wondered. It seemed like some videos you guys did all the wire pulling but had electricians actually connect stuff up which I thought was a way to save money. Now hearing the story it makes much more sense. I can 100% say watching you guys do electrical results in work that looks a lot better than a fair bit of stuff I ran into doing A/V stuff. I got a bit of crash course on electrical from my dad who was licensed but thankfully haven't had to do any high voltage stuff yet!
I just skim coated right over a heavy popcorn ceiling. I used an electric ceiling sander that has a vacuum attached to take some of the big stuff off. Made no mess hardly at all and was super quick. Skim coating was pretty easy too.
If I was the homeowner, I would replace that pink R11 fiberglass with Rockwool anywhere you see it in the walls. Also ask you to spray some foam at any possible holes & cracks to the outside.
Stud pack and coffee this morning, YES! Have to say felt for you guys scraping that popcorn ceiling. I decided to do this myself at our mountain home when we lived in California and what a mess. Never again for me so I could appreciate what you guys went through. Great Job!
I’m a licensed Electrician, you do better electrical work then a lot of the journeymen Ive work with 😂. Love your content! Keep em’ coming!
I used a shopvac nozzle duct taped to the scraper so it's all gone in one step verses letting it drop and vacuuming it all up.
You guys are quickly becoming one of my favorite channels to watch. Great work as always.
Glad to hear it!
Suggestion from an electrician. Take the plare off of the receptacle or switch you're trying to match the height on and set your level to the top of the box. It makes it a LOT easier than trying to loom on the side for a center mark. Great job guys. Love watching your videos. Your work reminds me of my uncles' who uave been working by word of mouth for 25 years now
I used to that until one project the boxes were different sizes so now I use center lines. I’ve thought about lining up the laser with the top hole for the device. Awesome thx Red 👍💪👊
Looking forward to the next electrical video!
I love how most comments are about electrical and not drywall. Most electricians will file if person knows there craft in Louisiana. I have a electrical contractor that would be willing to file if code enforcers bust me. I'm a in process of removing popcorn ceilings. I used water method with soap paint sprayer it is a mess. Also dry sanding with shop vacuum with 9in electric orbital. Also Dry scraping. All methods generated an incredible amount of dust throughout house. I think I might just skim coat the entire ceiling least amount of mess. With 5 min. Mud. Just make small batches and make my way across ceiling. I'm not going for a level 5 finish i just want orange peel instead. Great videos btw I love working with dad now that he is in 70s he is doing less and less projects.
If you are a single person (no helper) scrapping popcorn, consider my technique. I use a garden sprayer and start to dampen the ceiling a section at a time. I use a small scaffold (for ceilings 8-10’ high) and a metal paint roller tray and a wide metal plaster tool with the corners dulled. I scrap it into the tray, and as it fills, I head over to a kitchen size trash can and dispose of the stuff. It is relatively less messy, and easily doable by a single worker. After all cleaned off, I skim coated it with topping compound. Quick!
5 gallon homer bucket finish all purpose mud 1/2 nap for paint, thin out mud and roll a 1/16th to an 8th inch of mud across ceiling works beautifully. The trowel out smooth.
Here in the UK, you can wire a house yourself HOWEVER it WILL need certifying & registering with the local council as conforming to regulation. This is a good option for a small builder who is competent enough to understand the Regulations. He can do it all on his time. He MUST however, not cover anything over [box-work or flooring etc. before his certifying Sparky has seen it ALL and tested it. If the Sparky can't see the clipping, bends, terminations, conduits etc., then they won't test or certify it.
If you are just making a minor move of a circuit or changing terminations [ socket/switch etc. ] then no inspection is required as the correct cables should already be routed to those points. This is primarily to prevent idiots using the wrong weight cables, then not supporting them correctly or maybe hiding them under insulation and not accounting for the reduced dissipation of heat etc. And on and on.......
Looking at the wiring in my house I will assume the builder went out drinking with the sparky who certified it. [ plug socket running off a lighting circuit, upstairs sockets linked into the downstairs circuit. Got to test EVERYTHING carefully in my house, before working on it.
Looks great 👍
Removing acoustic try with one layer of plastic to protect walls and two layers of plastic to protect the floor
Glue together wall plastic and bottom layer of plastic with 77 glue top layer don't glue it. Once the scraping is done you remove the top plastic layer and the bottom stays clean we use .7 mil plastic
I commend you on your professionalism and honest work keep on fixing my friend keep on fixing👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Long as you know what you doing. I know lots of electricians leaving comments. But you guys know what you doing why im a subscriber . Keep up the good work im always leaning from this channel. Goodstuff. Build On buddy
Much appreciated 👍
Best remodeling channel on RUclips!!!! Y'all will be over 100,000 subs soon 🇺🇸
Got a buddy, we were in the Marines together 40 yrs ago, who is more qualified in building, carpentry, repair/ remodel, and trim, than most people in the business. He worked with an electrical contractor for a while, commercial on a military base, and residential. He knew more than most of the permanent ,full time ,electricians.
I cant wait for the electrical work! Its my favorite part!!!
I've done the same thing. But I didn't go the garden hose route, instead I used a 1 gal pump sprayer to wet the ceiling as I could better control the amount of water then scraped. And did the trash can catch as well. Worked great with very little mess. Luckily I didn't have vaulted ceiling but it still took a bit longer.
70K!!!!! Man this channel has grown. I remember when like 20 comments was a lot. Now you fellas are over 200 to 300 every video! Another great episode.
Thanks TJ! We’re motivated and couldn’t do it without you guys. We know you’ve been here for a long time 💪🏼💪🏼
I'm a fan of canvas drop cloths. They don't get slippery, if you happen to step into a paint drip, a few steps pretty much cleans off the shoe so you won't track it every where and the paint will dry more quickly on the cloth than the plastic. I've used canvas drop cloths on the popcorn removal, just get enough to cover the whole room, put the plastic on the walls and have at it. Once done, roll them up take to the dumpster and shake them out. They only get slightly damp on the job and clean floors. Wash them up in the laundromat with heavy duty washers.
I'll try it. The thought of cleaning them always stopped me. Laundromat would work👍
I wholeheartedly agree with your comment on not be able to do your own electrical work. As a homeowner, I want to take classes and learn this stuff. There is no middle ground, it's a shame.
Hard to prevent a homeowner from doing his own electrical. And I've seen the a little of the worst, while helping a neighbor remodel a previous remodel. Hidden splices (yup, unboxed and apparently splices) everywhere. I don't know what was going on behind that big wad of tape around them. And lines laying across and even one was run inside a heating duct. Even a non-electrician (me) can tell at a glance that it's wrong.
I've lived all over California - including San Diego, San Bernandino, Santa Barbara, the Bay Area, and Eureka; now live in the south. Knowing what I do about regulations in California it blows my mind that there was more flexibility in California for you to be able to do things than there is in Louisiana.
Taping of plastic to protect the walls is about 2 feet below the ceiling. I use my airless paint sprayer to apply water on the popcorn. This aids in peeling of the wall tape.
Sparky here, Looking forward to the next deep dive on electrical work! Stay safe guys!
Thanks Andrew 👍
I use a power drywall sander with 80 grit and dust extractor to sand popcorn off. Saves the shoulders and time. This came off nicely for you guys though.
I had surgery yesterday and seeing that you had uploaded a new video makes my day.
So glad we could help Sarah and wishing you a speedy recovery 👍❤
In the 2x4 walls use “stackers” to hold the wires to the 2x4. A staple can only hold 2 Romex any more than that won’t have the 1 1/4 nail space. You can get them from depot or Lowe’s
Cool thanks Tom 👍
I like that trick with the pliers nailing in the electrical boxes it's a good solution to a tough problem
👍
As a licensed sparky, I always had the hunch you started as an electrician then went rogue as a builder. Haha, thanks for sharing!
Fellow sparky, looking for a good job that I can go rogue and really start getting my hands dirty
Ha, "went rogue", love it, thanks Tony 👊
just adding some
ideas I
use. I run a drywall screw thru each electrical
box right down the middle. with the two nails and the screw, they never loosen no matter
how much use they get and it helps keep the un nailed side from leaning inward of the drywal
My inspector will fail us on electrical if we install a screw through the side of a box that is not designed for that purpose
As a homeowner, I've wired all my own remodels in both of the houses I've owned without issue. Yes, had the rough in and final inspections too.
Even I know not to use the blue pos boxes the stores sell. If you're the good guy you seem to be, get the homeowner some decent deep boxes that'll last for the little bit more they cost.
You understand how to do ductwork! Awesome. Airflow matters.
Thx 😎
Break out the palm nailer to install the boxes... make quick work of the job.
Fantastic! What a team. Every vid is getting better and better ... one of the few channels I have notifications on
Sweet thx Thor 👍
That's some good electrical experience. I have much of a similar story. Working in a commercial office building while shadowing and assisting the electrical contractors. I understood everything you explained is pretty cut and dry. The buss bars are literally flat copper plates that come half inch, three quarter or someone 1 inch thick that make a permanent connection with copper bolts and washers as well usually used on a higher amperage applications. good work 👍💪
Thx Maurice 👍
What do about oxidation on copper
They do annual and 3 year maintenance on the switch gear here in NYC. Meaning torqing down the bolts, and cleaning the bus bars no real chance for oxidation development hence the reason they use all like materials
I find the joists and hang 1/4" drywall for a clean, new look. Especially if I'm not sure if it's asbestos.
Mini detail for the new outlet where the wing wall was removed. In Alachua Co, FL, the inspectors will fail use of cables entering a single gang box using the opening next to the stud. Be sure to check your local requirements.
To protect the wire from errant drywall screws? good idea actually 👍
We did popcorn removal like this all the time with a somewhat similar initial application: draped 48"-96" film on every wall. Caught water/popcorn drippage and had the ceiling prepped for painting the next day. Then we'd spray the popcorn ceiling with 2' wand on a paint sprayer (adding Krud Kutter or Dawn to the water if the ceiling was painted... with a longer wait time before scraping if painted). Very little overspray with the wand right up close (we're both 5'7").
Radically different action: My partner would hang a king-sized mattress bag on our 2'x4' large-wheeled anti-scuff wheeled scaffold. We blue-taped the bag to the 4 top corners of the scaffold and put the 2 step boards under the bag (usually the 2nd or 3rd step down from the top) to be able to hold a lot of material in the bag, while still easily moving every scrap of material from the entire job until it ended. After prepping the scaffold bag, I'd stilt up, grab a 6" drywall knife for each hand, and he would push (or pull) the scaffold around the room in front of me... as I scraped with each hand. Because I only used 6" knives, could get better than 95% of the popcorn scrapings and water directed right into the bag, but it was still a very fast scrape. (He could respray with the wand if it was a big job and started to dry, but we moved so fast, that rarely happened.) Then at the very end of the entire scraping job we could either leave the bag on the scaffold (to dry a little overnight), or just tape the bag closed (in place), roll the scaffold out to the dumpster, and roll the bag off the scaffold into the dumpster one time.
We also would get the adhesive floor coverings from Sherwin Williams. CONS of the floor adhesive is it can only be on for a few days (so we'd make sure when it went on we could be finished up in 4-14 days) and it's expensive. PROS are: the floor is sealed, adhesive plastic doesn't slip, all floors can be swept or mopped (at end of each day), paint spills & overspray don't leak thru, and at the end of the job... not only is the floor is more clean than when we started, but also, the entire final floor cleanup was less than 2 hours (if we didn't do any floor work beside walls and ceilings).
Thx for all the tips Matt 👍💪
@@StudPack We hated popcorn jobs too, but we'd charge double the going rate, and doing it this way we halved our time. Got a lot of referral jobs even charging so high because we'd guarantee to keep the customer's house immaculate, no wall, window, or crown stains, and the dust would be minimal (never used the power sander, only a fast wipe with a Radius360 if there were any edges to knock down afterward).
Aluminum hvac grills! Solid new point! Hate that rust especially here in the South! I wouldn't worry about moving the hvac in the living room. Solid work by moving to windows. Switch to Wago electric nuts, so much better than wire nuts. Well worth the extra money and saves so much space in the box!
Thx John. I have some Wagos. I’ll give them a shot 👍
I adore the dynamic of your duo. Great work both on the renos and the channel.
FYI In Québec, Canada, you cannot have wires come in a metal box without wire protection from the metal edge of the dox. It is to prevent the wire to be cut from the sharp edge and cause an arc.
Yep same here 👍 That box inside the wall (if that's what you mean) is plastic.
Great Video ! guys I love the new Klein hammer helper.. LOL!
17:25 I didn't know those existed. All this time using ferrules/crimps with pigtail now just got a lot easier.
Yep they're a life saver.
@@StudPack a quicker way to do it is to cut the grounds even and add a new ground wire (or 2 or 3, depending on how many you need) and twist together with a wire nut (tan or red depending on how many wires and sizing).
My Mom had her popcorn ceilings sanded to leave just a quarter of the corn. The texture looks really good.
Electrical box: Don't laser to the center, laser to the top screw hole into which the switch or outlet mounts - saves having to mark the center line of all the boxes.
Cool that works. Sometimes I use 4x4s and install mud rings later. Guess that got me into centerline habit 👍
It's very satisfying to watch that popcorn come down. Maybe there's a contractor that does nothing but scraping popcorn off ceilings? They could start up a RUclips channel like Doctor Pimple Popper, with nothing but removing bad ceiling choices...
My company does that over here in MN but most of the time people paint over popcorn to stop it from falling down and to try to get rid of the dust and cobwebs. Most of the time it's not removing it as much as it's a skimcoat over it to make it smooth
I love the way you guys do this but I opted to pull our old kitchen and dining room ceilings down (not as high up) and we ended up leveling the ceiling moving some vents and then reinstalling to make them flat. My wife then had us do the main bathroom, the master bedroom, the spare bedroom, and now we are moving on to the other bedrooms and office. Wish we had scraped them now but our vacation house is older (1973) and it has settled such that leveling the ceilings and reframing floors is a must. Great video. When we did our floors we found that they had used two 16 foot 2 x 8's as floor joists. In the middle, they had laid bricks on the slab and overlapped the 16 footers on bricks in the middle to go the entire 30 foot span. That was why we had a huge hump down the middle of both rooms. Needless to say, when we redid it all, we did it right. Got our tips from you guys. Thanks.
Sounds like a great project 👍
Always appreciated Kevin 👊💪
Yep i just ordered a 24 inch skimming blade from LEVEL 5 , Makes things easier and quicker. Good plan
Also, your point about not being able to do electricity, same here in the UK as far as I'm aware
I did my 3 phase and got my certificate way back in 89, but because I've not kept up to date with all the courses over the past 32 years with all the updated regulations I can't sign any of my work off
I can buy it, and fit it, I just can't call it legal until its checked out
I suppose its all there for a reason though, electricians got to get paid too 😉
Anyway, you must have so much work booked up you'll probably have Jordans kids helping out to finish it up
Keep up the good work guys 👍👍👍👍👍
On those tight spots, you might want to consider using the Madison Electric Smart (electrical) Box. A little more expensive but the mounting screws are inside the box so you don’t have to use lineman pliers and hammer to install. The Smart Box is good for both new and old work.
Great video guys, keep'em coming!!!
Guys keep these coming, would love to see an update on the house with the rotten floor btw.
Cool thx Conrad. Rotten floor house is our next project.
So nice watching someone that really knows what he is doing. Great work!
Thanks for watching!
Speaking of hot water. We removed an acoustical ceiling from a concrete shop building we were using by turning a fire hose on the ceiling. It removed the material and washed it out the door but it also turned a room of about 30 x 30 into a sauna. This was in the north bay of California in the summer. I enjoy hearing more about your background and how things have changed.
Thx Emmet! Fire hose didn't ruin the drywall?
@@StudPack No drywall, the building was all concrete built in the 1930's.
Oh cool 😎
I use reusable blue tarps as a first layer, followed by 0.7 mil plastic on top of the blue tarp. Never an issue with water on wood floors.
Crazy to think those ceilings have probably been there since the 80s and never was painted. I feel like ceilings need a fresh coat every 10 years or so depending on the sun in the room. Also got my stud pack shirt yesterday!
cool thx Nathan 💪
LOL I'd hate doing that BEEP too, Paul. Great job.
We use tarps on the floor to catch the popcorn. That way no dragging around a trash can, and no sliding around on plastic.
Hahaha been there! Try scraping a stimpled ceiling with drywall mud!
How did mud and tape go after you got the popcorn down? The main reason they did popcorn seems to be to get away with quick and sloppy drywall work. The bumpy texture hides bumpy joints.
That scraping. Have you thought about using an small bucket hanging under the scraper, modified in a way with a pvc pipe along the stick and a wet vac connected to it.?
Wish I could paste a picture here, but you get the idea. like a sink , the popcorn / wet debris falls in the bucket and under the bucket is an hole with drain pipe and connect the hose from the vac to that. Go try it one afternoon. :) Great jobs you are doing !
I get it, cool idea 👍💪
Round the corners of the dw knife with a grinder. Really helps with no gouging of the ceiling dw.
I have a slight roundover on them, may need more 👍
When doing popcorn ceiling removal ive found that if the ceiling has not been painted to dry scrape the popcorn then skim coat the enitire areea with plus 3 drywall compound its dusty but way better than all that wet mess and if the ceiling has been painted mud over it !!! Hope this helps
HVAC guy here. Have a tech come in and look at the supply/return ductwork and make sure you are sized right for your system. I don’t like “central returns” because they can make the farthest away rooms uncomfortable. Also those high ceilings can trap heat. A return grill up there might make that room more comfortable.
I've done this a few times, the finished ceiling looks great afterwards. I still don't know who in their right mind thought popcorn ceiling looked great back in the day.
Great job guys !
Thx 👊
I've always thought it was an acoustical choice, especially in big rooms.
Cool Hoodie. I graduated from there. Class of 08. Industrial Engineering and Technology.
we scraped popcorn ceiling in our 1800 sq ft fixer upper. We did it while all the flooring was out (bare concrete) and hired people to help scrape and clean floors as we went. It was a huge mess. Almost a bigger problem was how poorly the drywall tape was installed under the popcorn. Almost all of the tape corners between walls and ceiling needed to be or should have been replaced. Most of the butt joints lacked compound under the tape. Even the tapered edges lacked mud under the tape and needed work.