How I Change The Neckline On My Patterns
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Today I'm going over how to change the neckline on a pattern and how to draft new matching facings to finish them. I have two examples to show you, along with my general tips surrounding necklines! Don't worry, it is very simple!
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First, a disclaimer: So many of you have kindly offered to send me things, including vintage items you may have inherited, and I am so honored you would think of me and of course I do adore vintage treasures, however, unfortunately I only have so much storage space currently! So there is a chance that if something just wont work for me, or doesn't fit me etc, that I may not be able to keep all of your lovely things. Please only send things if you are okay with the possibility that I may donate items I just cannot keep. If you would prefer I put things that I can't keep into the TCH Etsy shop to help raise funds for me and the channel, please specify this in a note or letter in your parcel. Thank you so much!
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Thank you for watching!
If one wanted to avoid seeing bra straps, and also have a neckline that was on that borderline, or narrower shoulder straps: Add loops with snaps on the garment near the hollow above or below the collarbone. The loops can be hooked around the bra straps to keep them from sliding out from under the strap.
(I suggest near the collarbone so you reach with both hands and can see what you’re doing in a mirror if necessary. Yes, I realized the hard way that while snapping snaps together should be an easy one handed endeavour - it sometimes isn’t.)
Also a useful, and easy, modification on ready to wear tank tops.
Alternatively, if your bra has straps that can be unhooked on at least one end to reconfigure them, you can sew tubes out of any fabric you like to slide over them. Possibly with interfacing to keep them looking crisp.
Or if the straps can be unhooked from both ends, just make your own bra straps.
And if they can’t be unhooked, you could remove them permanently, and replace them with fabric straps, or bra strap elastic with G-hooks, that can be hooked into lips you sew onto the bra. Do remember that the reason the straps on bras are adjustable is so that straps can be tightened or loosened during the day, or as the elastic/fabric stretches over time - so even though you know how long you need them, that adjustablity might be worth retaining.
Also, cute neckline. I should go take another stab at reworking a top I banished to the naughty bin.
… I’m going to give myself points for creativity and ambition, and reuse the fabric for something else. Yikes.
That was fun to watch! I absolutely love that you try anything and everything with your necklines. I love the interest it can give a regular top !! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!
Thank you Sarah!
OK - I'm an almost complete non-sewer (who, despite that shortcoming, so enjoys your channel) - and, to me, dart manipulation is magic. Witchcraft. Sorcery. I love to marvel at, and listen to you narrate, the spectacle ❤️
Thank you Kate!
I just came from your “why you should stop using commercial patterns video” and I IMMEDIATELY see the value in creating your own blocks. I haven’t sewn any clothes yes, but since I’m fat and have issues with finding patterns with my measurements, I think I’m going to go in guns blazing trying to figure this out! Thank you SO MUCH for demystifying the process!!
Same. I am finishing a hand-sewn cape for one kid, making a dress for each kid, then I'm going to make a block. Tall, fat, extremely high-waisted, 35in inseam.... NOTHING fits me right. 😂😂
Every time I watch one of your videos two things run through my mind: 1) I always learn so much from you and 2) I really need to make block patterns for myself and start playing with them.
Same! 😁
Thank you Crystil!
Yay! Your makeup today is hot like fire B. I still have yet to make myself these lovely block patterns but I do love using your tips and tricks to change my existing patterns to better suit my dream wardrobe.
Thank you!
Your professionalism makes it easy to learn from and enjoy your videos. The backgrounds are colorful and filled with fascinating items, lighting is excellent, placement of camera is perfect so I can see you work, and narration is perfectly paced. I love the background music also. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, they are much appreciated. You are inspiring.
Thank you Ann!
I love this neck line so much!🤩 I'm so happy you do step-by-step so we can follow along when trying do these garments! Thank you!🙌
Thank you Sandy!
Outstanding !!! 💖 Thank you for teaching us how to be confidently dramatic with our necklines. 💖 Love all that you do. 💖
Thank you Dolores!
Yes it is called calico in Australia, at least that's what my mum calls it. She's 70+. Don't see it used/sold much now though. Love the 2nd neckline.
Absolutely love the eye makeup today!
This is exactly how my Mum, who was a seamstress in the 40s, taught me how to do clean looking necklines. However, watching how you even handle the iron brings a whole new level of understanding. Thanks Bianca. Please keep up your wonderful work!
And your right about Calico in Australia. 😊
Thank you Kaytie!
Here in England we use the term calico to describe quite a strong, tightly woven unbleached cotton (exactly what you used for your block). The fabric we call muslin is a light, lose weave cotton (a delicate fabric with excellent drape that is harder to work with). We do, however, often refer to a toile as a muslin in England.
Sometimes us Brits are very confusing and seem to make things unnecessarily complicated!
Your pattern making is SO SO SO helpful!! Thank you!
Thank you Mary!
Thank you for sharing, I now know what the piece of fabric leftover from my very first attempt was 😅😂 and where I should have sewed it 🎉
The peaked neckline is giving me serious Wonder Woman vibes!
Thanks for this tutorial because neckline facings have been my nemesis for a while!
In Australia we do indeed call it calico. Muslin is a very loose weave cotton here so it caused me some confusion hearing Americans call calico “muslin” because it would be awful to use as toiles. 😂
Really nice necklines. I also don't like plunging V's and love a little tiny V neck instead of the jewel neckline on my sheath dresses. I began playing around with asymmetrical necklines opening the bodice on the fold. Thanks for a great video.
A question for anyone: do you have recommended silk pin brand?
I’d like to try some and looking at reviews for a few seems they bend very easily or are dull and snag the fabric.
Love the eyeshadow look today! So pretty! Thank you for continuing to show us how to use a bodice block to make different types of garments. Always educational and cool to see the variety.
Thank you!
Would love to know how you make the bodice block!
Bianca, you always look beautiful! Your eye shadow is really popping, I really enjoyed the eyeshadow collection review! Please do a hair tutorial, this hairstyle is my idea of a hair goal!
Any professional hairdressers' tips for fine hair are welcome.
Thank you Lelani! Sadly this was just a particularly good hair day for me 😂 I don't think I could replicate it! I do it the same every time, but it just comes out different each time 😅
You present very well. Right on, good demonstration pace with no "well um." And you don't say "well right here I have my pins and scissors..." as if we don't already know those tools are a given. Thank you. New neckline here I come.
Bianca, this is an awesome tutorial! Great job! Your makeup is on on point and gorgeous!
Thank you!
Confession: when you say bye at the end of your videos I say "Bye!" back 🤣
This is AWESOME thank you so much!!! I’m a beginner sewer trying to make more complex cosplays and it calls for a lot of custom necklines and details! This is super helpful!
I love understitching. I know it's something people skip but it was the first 'makes a garment look professional' type of skill i learned about and i dunno i just love to see it 💚
PS. Yes - Calico in Australia. If you order "Muslin" you get a very soft thin fabric a bit like a well-washed bandage. In other news, what *will* I do with 3m of thin soft fabric like a well-washed bandage???
Love the eye makeup today! A few questions about necklines...
1. You said that you didn't understitch the second neckline all the way across because the points will get in the way. Can't you follow the points along the neckline?
2. When I do neckline facings, I find that they like to misbehave and don't naturally lay flat unless I tuck them down by hand. Any ideas how to stop this? FYI, I usually work on light/medium weight cotton (e.g. brushed cotton), have a 2inch wide facing for a wide, scooped neckline, and edge stitch the facing.
TIA and lots of love from the UK!
Your bee tattoo on your arm is really cute. Thank you for the video.
Thank you Jessie!
I just found your channel and I’m watching all of your videos!
Thank you for all your content. You’ve inspired me to start sewing again ❤
I have been working on my block patterns all day following your other video, watching this one made me so excited to get to the next step! Thank you!
That last neckline design is my all time favorite of yours ~ So elegant, but equally edgy.
WAIT.... when it says cut on fold it litteretly means to fold it!!!
Super helpful. Great demonstration. Thank you!
Thank you!
I love muslin, especially if I'm making a mock up or lining a light-medium fabric because it's a little bit heavier than my fabric but not stiff like regular cotton can be, plus it softens up nicely after washing it a few times
Bianca, I have watched this video over and over again as it is invaluable help, but I wish you would go a little slower! My poor brain struggles to take it all in :))
Hi Bianca!! Wonderful step-by-step as always.. Your make up is absolutely beautiful.. Second neckline is by far my favorite one.. Thanks for taking your time to show us this.. I deeply appreciate everything you do….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Thank you Deana!
Will this work with Jersey fabrics? Maybe without the darts?
Very interesting. I'm always so in awe of how effortlessly you seem go be able to manipulate these patterns and sew them together. I absolutely love that neckline you created! I really need to learn how to sew, but I'm so intimidated.
me too!! it’s like snip snip snap sew snip snap sew press while I would have made the scissors fall on the floor and fell with them at least twice during those same moves LMAO
Sorry I hadn’t read the end of your comment before replying, but start with something easy with not a lot of steps to make it less scary!! sewing is the most incredible journey you’ll ever be glad to have embarked on, it’s worth it stranger!!
@@LS-vq2or I've always wanted to learn. I do very simple hand sewing, but I want to learn all the fancy things! LOL
Thank you! Sewing seems like a lot of things at first, but just take it one step at a time. Like all things, you will improve with practice and get comfortable on the machine and such. Remember I have been sewing for nearly 18 years! So I didn't get to the point I'm at now overnight for sure ❤
@TheClosetHistorian I know, u really should jump in. I just don't have a good setup to work, and materials are pricey, so I'm really concerned about messing it up and wasting everything.
This is one of my favorite necklines I’ve seen you create, since I began following g you years ago
Forgive if this is answered somewhere. When you drew the back shoulder seam to match the front, is there ever a problem that the ends of the seam allowances are being matched and not the stitching line? I'm new to this and have never done it before.
Hi I have 1 quistion about art. I did a mockup of a top pattern I got but that dart was ending up under my boob and I have no ide how to manipulate it up on a pattern . Any ideas?
Ooooh…that neckline is amazing and looks gorgeous on you. Thank you for showing us this
Thank you Corey!
Wonderful thank you ♥🙏🏼♥I learn a lot from your tutorials😊
Ah yes that smell of ironed Calico (Australian)
You are forever helping me make it through my project!
Yeah we call it calico here in uk, I remember the smell too when I went to college, miss those days 😊
Bianca how would you handle a back shoulder dart when changing necklines? I noticed your back block doesn't have a back shoulder dart and mine does. Your videos are Amazing and SO helpful! I love your channel. You've created a monster. LOL
Thank you! I'm pretty sure I just forgot to trace the dart on my block in one of the many mock ups when I drafted my block ages ago and just never put it back 😅 You can kinda find the midpoint of the back and shift the tiny fullness into the waist dart I'm sure!
Yeah, we still call it calico here in Australia. I love working with it.
I really appreciate the pattern altering portion of your videos. I'm learning so much! Thank you.
I asked you about your machine maintenance program. I've just rescued a vintage Singer (201-2), and I sent it out for professional servicing. The electrical system worked, but it looked wonky to me, and I'd rather not take the chance of getting an electrical shock, thank you, so... off to the spa. Anyway, according to the manual that came with it, the machine should be oiled after every 8 hours of sewing. (what???). There are diagrams for the oil points, and each point gets one (and only 1) drop of oil. I learned to sew on my mother's Singer 201 and I'm sure it was never oiled or serviced. A testament to the engineering of those machines! Anyway...
Thank you! I know they say to oil them constantly 😅 thirsty apparently!
Your eye make up is spectacular.
What a wonderful tutorial. You do an amazing job of explaining everything.
Thank you Alexandra!
Can confirm muslin is calico in Australia, I just bought a roll of it today. Obviously I have no chill because I pattern draft with permanent marker 😅
Thanks so much for this tutorial, I'm feeling much more confident drafting facings now. All your flat pattern drafting tutorials have been amazing to learn from as a beginner.
Thank you Amy! ❤
Perfect timing! I was just looking if you had a video on necklines XD! I found a picture of a party dress I want to make because I'm really intreaged by the necklines. However, not only the front, but also the back are quite low. I've heard that that might be a problem, because the dress will start slipping of the shoulders etc. Do you have any experience with this? How do I tackle something like that?
It will definitely slip on you which can be very discouraging! You'll want to secure the shoulder to your bra straps or something, like with ribbon loops on snaps. The other option is to build more a whole like bustier into the dress itself to hold up the necklines in a more structural way, but that's advanced stuff 😅 I've never done those!
Very informative and explained so clearly. Plus I chuckled a few times, so points for the laughs.
Thank you Reese!
Any tips for dealing with the facing where it was difficult to understitch but machine? Should I do understitching by hand or is there another trick to keeping the facing hidden?
Brilliant video as always!
I do hand understitching ... I've even added hand sewn understitching on ready-made blouses when the facing wouldn't stay put.
Thank you Flynn! I think, being on the lazy side myself, I would just tack the facing down to the fashion fabric with a few tiny stitches (I always do it at the shoulder seams and usually the center front) if I had one that didn't want to behave 😅
OMG I bought a bunch of muslin for mockups and the stuff was just GAUZE! Now I realize why. It's called CALICO in Australia :) ahhh now it makes sense. Thanks for that little tidbit!
Yeah I’m France you’d have the same issue, “mousseline” (the word that normally would translate muslin in French) is a sort of gauzy, airy, soft and suuuuuper floopy fabric that is unusable for muslins - we call a mockup a “toile”, which is also the generic word for an even classic overunder weave of fabric, and is now the word for muslin/calico to make mockups.
Just found your channel....really enjoy your instruction. Explaining why you are doing certain things is so helpful. I always have issues with patterns being too wide in the shoulders. I have subscribed!
Thank you Bonnie!
Thank you Bianca, your tutorials are so helpful! and I admire your 99k every time I see it 🤩
Thank you Jane!
I'm late to the party, but I'm curious. Do you mark your block with a rough sketch of where your favorite bra goes across your front and back? I'd love to play more with strappy backs, but the bra needs to stay hidden! :)
I have not personally done so no, but mostly becuase I dont tend to make strappy things or low/wide necklines myself, one certainly could of course though yes!
If I want to change it for higher neckline, how would I do that?
Very cute collar, and you look so glamorous today! I adore the big pearls with the hair. It's very rockabilly.
Thank you!
I always loved the smell of ironed (unbleached) muslin, it reminds me of cookies, oddly enough. Warm and toasty
It's very cookie adjacent coziness!
Thank you so much for sharing this information. Just created a sloper; this is so helpful. Love your channel.
Thank you Cristina!
It seems like you don't have problems with your neck lines gaping when you change them from your block because I haven't ever seen you take that into account. Is that something you eliminated in drafting your blocks? Or is it just not an issue for you? Did you learn any methods for correcting gaping neck lines in your studies you could share?
I don't think I have ever encountered this problem! If I had to guess I'd say its a dart intake issue, if another dart needs to be pinched out at the neckline once it is widened/opened then it probably could always use to be removed, if that makes sense. So perhaps in refining my dart intake post-FBA I got my block fitted close enough this is never an issue for me.
In this video you look like Morticia Adams and Marylin Monroe‘s lovechild and it is fantastic! Apart from the visuals and the good view of your drafting this video gave me the confidence to be more daring when drawing necklines!!
Thank you!
Absolute Excellence!!!
Thank you!!
Brilliant! Thanks for showing me how to’s, they are beautiful!
Thank you Viviana!
my favorite is the little silly extra noises you make lol bloop
How do you finish off the free edge of the facing, inside the garment? What's the best practice there, is it serging/zigzag to not add bulk in strange places like turning under and hemming would?
Yep! I usually just serge mine! If a fabric is delicate enough it cant be serged, usually that indicates to me I need a full lining anyway, so I'm more likely to line the whole bodice in those cases!
That'll be a nice neckline for you when you adjust it. Good for dress clips and/or necklaces!
Thank you!
What sort of scissors are they ?thanks for demo you make it so easy to understand
You are gorgeous and talented. Keep slaying girl
Just watched it again to be clear. Love it.
Love this video 🥰 I learned so much and someday will be brave and never buy another pattern 😂 (except maybe vintage ones)
Thank you Emma!
Yes, muslin is known as calico in Australia :-)
This is great!
Thank you so much.
I love watching these videos! I can’t wait until I can do things like this! If my pattern has a turtle neck and I want to change it to a normal circular neck, how would I do that?
Thank you Cally! It depends on the style of turtleneck, if it is "grown on" aka there is no seam between the collar piece and the main bodice then the change is different than if there is a seam there, and if it is meant to be made from a woven or a knit the processes would be different as well. I have no experience with knit (aka stretchy) patterns unfortunately!
What lipstick are you wearing in the intro??? It looks divine on you!
Thank you Kathy! I think it's Colourpop Star Crossed!
Loving both those necklines. As I am abysmal at sewing collars, these styles will be a real boon the change the look of my shirts for this summer.
Thank you Mandy!
Thank you for explaining things so well, best wishes x
Thank you Heather!
Very Good instructions. Can you tell us how to change the neckline on a princess bodice?
Thank you! I'm afraid I would do it the exact same way!
Love this, so helpful and clear. Thank you.
Thank you Jennet!
Thanks for this! I always get tangled up in the facings, although my two favourite shirt patterns that use them are both single piece front, single piece back so I'm always confused how to understitch... A few times I left them open at the shoulders and did those seams last but it seems a bit bulky somtimes. Obviously I need more practice.
I learn so much every time I watch one of your videos! Thank you.
Thank you Leigh!
This neckline is phenomenal! Thank you for showing it!
Thank you Antonia!
Calico was originally a cheap, coarse(ish), printed India cotton. Muslin was originally a fine, plain Middle Eastern cotton.
In USA both are readily available. I've never been to UK.
How fun! Thank you!! Great videos as always!!
Thank you!
Am.looking everywhere on RUclips on how you can alter the basic blocks and I am.so happy to finally found your channel!!!
I need to get you sharpies fine point.
WOW! That was one Amazingly Complex neckline. A couple of little collar stays in the back and WOW! This about that -- I find that my understitching is always less than successful. Any tips?
Thank you Michelle! I would say perhaps try ironing the seam allowance towards the facing before you stitch (I skip this sometimes!) and maybe try stitching from the opposite side and see if that helps. So stitching the seam allowance with the allowance (aka back/under) side up, or down depending on what you usually do 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian 😁
Yep, we call it calico in Australia, what we call muslin is a super lightweight cotton.
Not just Aussie. Only America calls calico, muslin. The rest of the world call the heavy canvas like unbleached cotton, calico, and the soft sheer, loosely woven cotton fabric, muslin.
Very informative!!
I love your monotone voice! Plus the way you make your own clothes! 💕🤗
Thank you Karla!
Thank you, thank you. This is so much easier than I expected. I have a curvy bust for my size and now looking forward to being able to draft the necklines/facings that flatter me
I love this neckline. After you did the mockup I could see that a square back neckline would have worked well. Question...Is it easier to make a block by using the vogue pattern 1004 or my using the book that you showed us. You showed us how to use both. But I'm lazy, which is easier?
It's kinda impossible to say, is such a person by person thing. I'd say since either way you have to fit the darn thing starting with a base shell pattern is easier!
@@TheClosetHistorian thanks, will do.
Guess what I am working at a project with the change of neckline and here you are! Unbelievable! Thank you! Love from Italy!
I LOVE your patternmaking videos your process is so interesting and your voice over has to be one of my fav on youtube how you talk is both super funny and calming loved this video the second neckline is amazing
Thank you!
I feel inspired to jump off the commercial pattern boat, and fly. Thank you. X
I've noticed your basic bodice kind of tips up at the shoulder. Why is it like that, rather than following the line of your shoulder? Shoulder pads? Something to do with how the arm moves?
I imagine it looks like it because there is 1/2 of seam allowance extending past my real shoulder tip until I set a sleeve in perhaps?
@@TheClosetHistorian Oh. Duh.
The armhole curves on the front and back bodice pieces are so different!! Is this common? Or is there a special fit consideration you’ve accommodated with that?
Indeed this is becuase the front of my block has a full bust adjustment! It makes the armscye on the front a sharper curve because of how much dart fullness I need for my particular shape is all 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian makes sense! As a member of The Itty Bitty Committee, it makes sense why that would be unfamiliar to me