Announcement!! : The Etsy shop with things from both my closet clear out in addition to some vintage clothing and accessories will be going live on Saturday 6/19 at noon Mountain Standard Time. I am very afraid because I have had a lot of interest in certain items 😬 Know that I will try to teach you to make anything you can't snatch up here on the channel I promise! I will have more details coming in another community tab post soon, and will be posting a preview of what will be going live on my Instagram stories tonight for those who want to know what will be in stock!
For those who do want a deep dive type of thing that goes into specific fibres amd the fabrics made from them (with a focus on historical fabrics), Nicole Rudolph has an ongoing series, currently one video on Silks, one on Linen, and there will be future videos on wools and cottons and whatnot. It’s pretty helpful for understanding the properties of each different fabric (so you can put a name to them) and what they were historically used for.
I have seen people who have not taken these aspects into consideration when buying clothing or making clothing. Dinah Shore had a television program in the sixties or seventies. Some of her evening gowns she was sewn into. A lot of them she could not sit down in them. Not your everyday wardrobe. Some things people wear look like they were painted on. One coat. No primer.
When in doubt, take your paper pattern pieces to the fabric store. Or mark the width of your desired fabric on a table or the floor and lay your pieces out to find out how much fabric you need (humming the tune of Tetris is optional)
My mom learned about different fabrics in elementary school back in the late 60's/early70's. They taught all the kids how to "feel" different fabrics. I can understand why school doesn't teach kids that anymore, but I totally would've been one of those kids who loved learning about fabrics! Thanks for the informative video! Much appreciated! :)
My mother taught me to ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE LABEL in garments, so I'm the one sticking my hand up the side of a shirt or a pair of pants in the store desperately searching for that fibre content label. I always go for natural fibres and I'll only tolerate a very small percentage of synthetic (but prefer none at all) so I'm always looking for that label. With thrifted stuff sometimes the label isn't there if it's a home-sewn garment, or the label's been too damaged by washing but I'm experienced enough with fabric that I can usually get a reasonable idea by feel. BTW it's also good to be familiar with things like the woolmark logo or what fibres are called in other languages, like "reine schurwolle" or if it says "seta/seda/soie" or "puuvilla/baumwolle/coton/algodon" then you know it's wool and silk and cotton respectively. With buying metreage I always look for the fibre content and for mystery fabric I'll do a burn test (and if it doesn't feel right I won't buy it!)
My daughter’s JROTC classroom was originally the Home Ec classroom. That makes me sad - not that they have JROTC, but that they DON’T have Home Ec of any kind at her school. It’s a very very college-focused school, and I understand that sewing isn’t necessarily a useful skill for making money. But it’s definitely a useful skill in many other ways. Kids these days just don’t have time to squeeze it all in. There has to be a point when outside sources step in and I think sewing is the perfect example. Now that we have RUclips you can learn almost anything at home. But you can’t FEEL THE FABRICS virtually. 😢
I bought the book, "Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book, Second Edition" from Amazon (normally $70-90), it was awesome 😎 to have all the swatches. I am a relatively new sewer, and ALL the different kinds of fabrics were daunting to me. Not only that, but I am very texture oriented when looking at fabrics. While knowing/reading about the "weights or weaves" of fabric online... It helps immensely for me to touch the fabrics to get my head around the different types of fabric and their differences. Money well spent for me.
You are a wonder. I’ve never heard anyone impart more concise knowledge in a short format with more clarity. You use your talents very well. Thank you for the information.
I love Mood's swatch options too! If you buy fabric from them you can also earn free swatches. I've been using that option to build a swatch bundle for myself to learn the different weaves and weights and to have a reference of what X fiber Y weave Z weight is. I started with cottons, and now I'm working on linens. It's been a slow process, but it's been helpful for my fabric education.
...to wich I must immediately reply even before watching the video: You don't choose the fabric. The fabric chooses you! :D I like your calm and charming demeanor and all your nice projects! Not to speak of your amazing aesthetic
Two of the easiest ways to narrow your fabric choice are the following two questions: 1. Does this garment have to be easy to care for? and 2. How much am I willing to spend?
I'm fairly good at telling fabric apart by touch, a skill I learned in my teenage goth days when every item in my wardrobe was black... Something I do when thrifting is rub the fabric against itself between my hands. If it gets static I put it down because it's probably polyester, and even if it could be a natural fibre the static will turn it into a cat hair magnet.
Hey, do you have any idea which fabrics are more useful for not appearing wet? I know there are some clothes where spills or sweat patches are invisible or almost invisible, but not sure what they are.
@@getmotivated1707 I am far from an expert, but I think the best option might be lycra, the stuff they make swimsuits and exercise clothing out of. If you'd prefer woven fabrics I'd go with a dark colour linen, since dark colours help hide stains and linen is good at absorbing moisture.
This is actually excellent. I've been sewing for ages and I had no difficulty understanding Bianca's descriptions even when she's not confident that she's describing things well. I think that a beginner should experiment with the main quality fabrics - wool suiting, various rayons, cottons, linens and silks. It really doesn't take long to learn what will work best. Never let a mistake destroy your confidence!!!
I really appreciate this video, especially the bit comparing the weight of quilting cotton to apparel cottons. I knew they were different but couldn't articulate why. Not gonna stop me from sewing dresses and skirts with them because most apparel fabrics don't come in the prints I want to wear, but it's still nice to know the difference!
I think of it in terms of structure and purpose. There are some drapey designs that I think work better with thinner quilting cottons. And I just made a dress with box pleats, which worked better with the thicker/stiffer cotton. It's good to know the difference! It's not obvious to the new sewist.
Today I learned: -Floopy is a technical term -it's "Challis" 🤣 But seriously, thank you so much for this. Your bucket analogy is spot on. This is really something that can't be taught without hands-on experience, but you did a great job priming people to continue their research.
I (and several people for whom I make things) actually have some sensory issues and sensitivity to certain fibers in certain weaves and configurations, the combinations of which aren't always listed on a website, so when buying online instead of in-store where I can feel the fabric, swatches are a godsend for being able to tell not just the true color and weave of a fabric but how it feels and whether it will be okay to wear or drive one of us nuts from constant discomfort. Your breakdown of the different fibers and how they work also helps a lot with being able to classify different fabrics as Safe or Risky in this respect.
I know this is two years old but I just came found this and have to say how helpful this is. Thank you so much for creating this video. Thank you so much for this!
I've started ordering swatches when I order fabrics. I'm slowly building a little swatch catalogue for myself so I have some ideas about what a fabric is like. Much luck to those of you venturing out to fabric stores that you don't come home with too many *bonus* fabrics. I went to Joann a few weeks ago to buy one thing...and just had to look at the clearance table. Big mistake there! LOL! I only came home with one bonus fabric this time because 90% of the stuff was poly, fleece, or upholstery fabrics.
Seeking out other makers who have or are making a similar garment as you plan to can also give you some info on what materials might work. Makers who share their projects through blogs, youtube, or instagram sometimes will say what fabric they're using in which fiber, and then you can see how that material behaves when used in that type of garment as it's being completed or when finished!
You're dead right about this knowledge being difficult to acquire as a beginner, especially from books (my first source back in the 1980s). A couple of years into sewing I found a really great sewing teacher who helped out my fibre education - she passed on her knowledge acquired from lots of sewing and introduced me to the various standard tests. While other people's knowledge is very useful, I found that my eyes and fingers learned about fibres mostly through my own experience. The learning curve is definitely very steep at first, but I found it flattened pretty quickly with a LOT of fabric handling (and, may the universe help me, buying).
I just made a wrap top in rayon because you just wouldn't shut up about how good it is. Well, you were right. I LOVE it - the weight, the drape - just beautiful. AND it was a vintage floral print I found at an op shop - you would have been so proud.
Yes, this was super helpful! Also psyched for the "My 10 Fav Fabrics and What I Make With Them" and "Storytime: I Worked In A Swimsuit Factory, Kinda" (???) videos. :-)
Sometimes patterns will have a recommended amount to buy. It's always dependent on what size you're going to make something and again width because fabric is different width, but it might help you get a rough guesstimate about what you might need.
Best explanation of weave and fiber buckets...I am returning to clothing after quilting and not only enjoy but continue to learn from your videos. Always love what you design and especially your personal style.
I am quite new at sewing (started about 2,5 years ago, but have been knitting for many years). The most problematic thing for me is that I get most of my sewing information from Englih patterns/youtubers/blogs etc, but I am Swedish, living in Sweden, and fabrics are often not called the same or similar thing here, which is a pain when I try to shop both online and in stores. But I hope the more experience I get, the easier it will be. I found your youtube channel this week, and I find it really helpful and informative! :)
While I knew this information, I appreciate your videos. They are a mental health balm and help me get in the zone for my own sewing when I'm stuck in my head
This video was very helpful. I didn't think you could use cotton for dress making, but I learnt you can as long as there isn't a lot of draping in it. Cotton mixed with other fibers can soften it and yet give the crisp you need for collars and sleeves.
Nice summary of most useful info bits :) Fancy names - it is handy if you buy a pattern and need to know what the recommended fabric is like. Weight - look at the fiber as well. 300g wool is just thick (even 2mm) but still soft, 300g cotton is thinner but tightly woven and stiff as canvas or denim.
I’ve just bought three lengths of Linen Woolsey. As the name suggests it’s linen and wool. It’s washable and I’m going to make some winter items from them. They come from Merchant & Mills
Oh my god! As a beginner, this video was an amazing find on my RUclips rabbit hole into pattern drafting and reading patterns in general. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this video, I appreciate all the knowledge you were able to share.
Regarding knowing how much fabric you need: we have huge chunks of calico, we have old threadbare sheets, and other stuff that's cheap or free. We use them to make up sample clothes from our patterns. Doing that means we have a good idea of how much fabric we need. If you have a garment you want to make, pick up something that's a bit similar to what you want to make and give it a try.
I love it when you said 'feel things, see what they're called. I went to Spotlight to do just this and made it to the prints with glitter, bought lots and didn't male it anywhere near the learning lots....I only made it to 'oooooooohhhhhhh pretty' isle. But no matter I now have lots of very pretty glittery table cloths.
Hello from another Aussie! I am like a kid in a candy store at spotlight with oceans of fabric. Long time ago, there used to be this amazing fabric store called Clegs in Melbourne and they specialised in the most luxurious fabrics with so many varieties of silk, sequins, lace and incredible varieties of trimmings. Sadly they closed down a few years ago. Now you can’t get fabrics like pure silk from Spotlight or Lincraft.
This was so very informative and digestible! It must have taken quite a bit of work to compile all of this knowledge here, not to mention experience. Thank you for this valuable resource, ma'am!
Your videos are wonderful for me. I have taken up sewing for my new retirement skill and this info and your other videos are full of the knowledge I have been needing.
My Mom would often ask for a small sample (1 x 3 inch aprx) and built a swatch book of her own. She was also a professional potter and did the same thing with glazes but it make for a much heavier "book" :) Anyway, I have followed her lead but primarily keep samples of fabrics I have used (with notes) to help me find the right fabric for the project. PS - I have a sample pillow cover my grandmother made from the scraps of silk and rayon crepes she made her dresses with. I will take some pics to send you -- just for fun.
Oooooo, goodie! Bonus to look forward to! Again, so well explained with accessible language and commonsense abounding. Definitely informative, helpful, and encouraging.
Bianca, I've been watching your videos for a while now and have noticed how you clip your curves and thought of a tip for you to maybe save a little time (or at least make fewer snips). When I am getting ready to cut my curves, I fold the edge matching up the stitching and place my scissors close to the stitching and then cut towards the outside instead of taking two cuts to make that wedge cut. I hope that makes sense and that it will be helpful to you. God bless and stay safe. Cathy from Alabama 🥰
I truly enjoyed this video because you told the truth about all of the fabrics out there! No one needs to know about all of the fabrics available, not even designers. For Summer I am a cotton and linen lady and Fall, Winter, and Spring, I am a wool, flannel, silk charmeuse,(for slips/camis), and cotton jerseys and denim. I don't use any of the synthetics except for some natural fibers that get combined with spandex, but even that is rare. When I teach my beginner sewing class, one class is a field trip to the fabric store and we spend over an hour, sometimes 2 hours, going through all of the fabric aisles and then notions, etc. Of course none of that has happened for over a year!! Thank you so much for this walk through fabrics and how we really don't need to know about all of them!!
Ooh silk charmeuse for slips etc. thanks for the tip. 👍 Could I get away with cotton or linen for underthings? If so what weaves (or knit?) and weights would you recommend please? So over synthetic rubbish. 😒
@@emmadavey3892 I don't like cotton for slips or cami's because the cotton fibers catch on the cotton or linen fibers of the fashion fabric and end up riding up on me. I like the silk because the shiny side of the charmeuse is so slippery that it just slides against the cotton or linen. I also wear the cami's under my cotton turtlenecks in Fall, Winter and Spring. Please keep in mind that this is just for me. You may find that doesn't happen with you, so it's worth a try to find out how it works out for you! Good luck!
Thanks Peggy! I wish they had taken us on fabric field trips in fashion school! I mean, I was in school in LA and they could have taken us to the darn garment district! Alas, nope
As I've been seeing, I've been making my own swatch book. I have a 3 ring binder, each page h is divided in half. I use double sided tape to hold the fabric square I've cut out. I'll write all the info I have on the fabric: fiber content, weave, laundering instructions, store I bought it from, name of fabric, weight, etc. It's helped me over the years to learn about the fabric I use.
I have no idea when it comes to weave types, but I feel like I don't need to, as I only buy fabric in person and often second hand where there are no lables. So I just look for fiber and how sturdy or drapey it is. And feel it a lot with my hands. As long as I can handle the fabric I am fine without knowing all the names. But I am always practicing how different fibers feels, so I better can identify what I have in my stash that I inherited from my grandmother. How dense the weave is, is something I have noticed getting more important to me over time, because that has an impact on lots of different properties.
I do not sew as I have told you before. I just wanted to tell you I really enjoy your videos. I like to see what you have made or making. Thanks for the videos.
My rule is to always buy 3 1/2 yards of any fabric I see and love. That should give me more than enough to work with plus some extra. I also just take either photos or videos of the fabrics that are available, but I don't have a project for yet so I know all the information from the bolt and can review how the fabric acts in my hands.
I found out the hard way that heavy denims don't drape at all. I made a chore coat (Merchant & Mills' Foreman jacket) out of 13oz denim I got on sale, and because of how boxy the cut is and how skinny I am the excess material in the back stuck out like a tent. When I tried to put darts in to correct it they just straight up didn't work, the material was too stiff. I ended up sewing two buttons to the small of the back and making a half belt to pull in the centre back. Lesson learnt, make a mock-up and use sensible weight fabric. Next project is to remake the same jacket in a 6oz cotton duck canvas.
I am by no means a knit expert (quite frankly I loathe working with it, and this is coming from someone who works with silk charmeuse, chiffon, and even gauze regularly) but if you *must* work with knit, save yourself the headache and invest in a good knit presser foot for your machine, as it will save you much time and hair tearing out..... To be honest if I can get away with it I prefer rayon crepe if I need something with a bit of give... but it also has nowhere near the stretch of an actual knit, so I can understand the siren's call of knits. On another note, big gripe, I hate when sellers list fabric as "silk" like it's a synonym for satin weave rather than a fiber, and so it shows up when you search for said fiber, and you click on it and it's polyester. It's also incredibly annoying during garment district runs as well if you don't know the seller because a lot of them will try and sell you polyester under the guise of it being silk because they assume you're just looking for satin weave and don't care.
A me è capitato un signore che mi diceva " è seta" quando il prezzo era 3 euro al metro al mercato rionale. Oh l' ho comprata, perché mi piaceva il disegno, ma di sicuro non mi azzarderei a dire a nessuno " è seta". Anche il popeline io ho chiesto cotone ma ha una quantità di spandex esagerata per una camicia classica e formale.
Thank you for this concise video! I shall refer other sewists to it. I do sometimes order swatches, but it is usually to add to my fabric reference book which is becoming, as the young people are saying, thicc.
I just started sewing, currently doing an epp quilt project and hand stitching, but i went nuts on ebay...i now own quite possibly hundreds of yards of fabric, mostly upholstery cotton/linen, but also lots of velvet, along with my fat quarters and scraps...i will use all of it eventually, but man, its so easy to go on a spree! Im excited to learn how to work with all the difficult fabrics I've collected, and glad to have a bit of everything to try. If anyone is in Glasgow and would like some, hit me up 😅❤
Super helpful! Thank you!! I am more of a novice sewist, so hearing this information all together in one video is very helpful. I feel like I can always learn something new :)
I just recently started sewing over the last year and I really needed this!! Now I just need to find somebody else to explain knits for me in the same clear way that you did for wovens lol
Thank you, this has been so useful. I know enough about fabrics to know that I really don't know enough about fabrics :), so a conversational and easily understandable video like this one goes a long way to filling in those knowledge gaps! 🙌
Watched this while having dinner. Great humour, fantastic style, a lot of helpful and really interesting knowledge shared - only three out of many reasons why this video is a treat. Thank you so much Bianca ! :)
Extremely helpful thank you for sharing. I am in the middle of making a bridal outfit what you are saying has really helped me choose what fabric to buy.
Love the video. It was helpful even though I almost exclusively buy from my local thrift/off cut store. I’m a buy the fabric, find the project kind of person.
Thank you very much for the aclarations. In my trip to the vintage I have had several unfortunate events regarding the fabric and I needed the tips that you have given.
Thank you for a very-informative video! I ordered *Heavy Dull Satin* to make an 80s (1980s; with you I should specify the century ;)- style skirt suit as Fabricland specified that as a "suiting" material about a fortnight ago. It looks and feels good, but I couldn't tell you if it were a twill or a sateen or whatnot! It is heavy and devoid of stretch, so I think it is a tight many-thread weave (it was costly enough), but I didn't even think of that until I saw this video! Thank you and God bless!
Twill is easy to spot since it has a clear diagonal in the weave which can be seen where the light hits your fabric. This is because the weave is over one under 2(or more) , staggered row by row. If the finish is shiny, a sateen weave is more likely. Its the usual weave for shiny lightweight(relatively speaking) fabrics, hence calling shiny lightweight fabrics "satin"
I would like to suggest the books Fabric Savvy and More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina, wonderful resource books with detailed information on the fabrics, what they are suitable for, sewing tips and needles to use and pressure feet.
a tip i saw once to know how much fabric you'll need is: know the width of the fabric, then put 2 rulers or other straight long things parallel that width apart. then you arrange your pattern pieces between those 2 lines how you would on the actual fabric and then you measure the length.
Lovely video as always! Now I at least have more of an idea of what I can do with the fabrics I have in my stash (or at least what kinds of patterns would be suitable for them)!
Great video! Even I didnt learned something new I liked to watch / listen it :D I only want to add that Evelyn Wood made a similar video recently and she talks a bit about chosing knits too, so maybe thats something for people to watch who want to learn about them too.
My sewing interests are 18th and 19th century and I live in a hot humid climate so I'm constantly on the lookout for linen. When thrifting I often come across "linen look" fabrics that are anything but linen. When you look closely they do a pretty good job of looking like linen but they don't behave like linen. However, the slubs in true linen are random. The fake slubs in fake linen are not. If you hold the fabric at arms length and look at it a pattern to the slubs begins to emerge. That's the dead giveaway for fake linen. This doesn't work for fabrics with some linen content but it can keep from you from buying "linen" that is really just cotton, polyester or rayon.
Thank you so much for making this video!! This and the Fabric Basics video you mentioned were so so helpful! I actually took notes in my sewing journal like a proper student :)
Thank you! As someone who has knowledge mainly of modern casualwear, I was wondering when choosing a petticoat or underskirt fabric, how slick the fabric has to be?
Hmm! It depends on the type of petticoat really. I usually buy floofy petticoats because sewing one takes a lot of fabric and is quite a pain in the arse (I get mine from Malco Modes) and they are made from soft nylon chiffon. For things like a skirt slip I would probably choose a silk charmeuse or rayon satin, but usually I just buy them again, as there are pretty vintage ones from the 50's and 60's for pretty inexpensive online 😅
Thank you! Soon! I have just invested in a giant scanner so I don't have to spend 2-3 full days just scanning each page in two halves on my tiny printer scanner anymore 😅
Biggest tip i have: for lighter, high quality fabric in great condition, Thrift curtains! High quality curtains will be lined to protect the fabric from sun bleaching. Theyll need a good wash but no one ever touches or spills on curtains and you can get decent quality if youre willing to work with panels. I have 8 beautiful lined champagne silk dupioni 90"long curtain panels that i paid $5 for.....yeah. 😎
Thank you so much for making it simple for me. You did a great job!! I have mostly woven so the information you provided, I feel much better and will hopefully give it a go.
I have a hard time imagining how the lighter textiles in my fabric store are going to feel after I have washed the stiffness out of them, so to speak. Last year I didn’t even know they put stiffening in some lighter fabrics. Not sure stiffening is the right word either, but I’m sure you understand what I mean. So last year I was looking for a light weight cotton something something and I couldn’t find anything that felt like it was the right thing… because everything felt stiff and crispy… because it had been stiffened… So, that’s a thing to keep in mind for us noobs as well 🥰
"Sizing" is the term for that stiffening product, and it can be tricky as sizing is sometimes desirable and is not intended to be washed out, making some fabrics and, by extension, some garments dry-clean only.
Thank you for this video! I always love watching your content, but lately in particular I’ve had Bees in my Brain and needed something substantial and informative to distract me. I’ve started working at a small sewing pattern company this year and it’s given me a great opportunity to dive headlong into sewing and garment related learning. :3
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Announcement!! : The Etsy shop with things from both my closet clear out in addition to some vintage clothing and accessories will be going live on Saturday 6/19 at noon Mountain Standard Time. I am very afraid because I have had a lot of interest in certain items 😬 Know that I will try to teach you to make anything you can't snatch up here on the channel I promise! I will have more details coming in another community tab post soon, and will be posting a preview of what will be going live on my Instagram stories tonight for those who want to know what will be in stock!
💚🖤💚
Ah you're a saint! Thank you 😭😭
For those who do want a deep dive type of thing that goes into specific fibres amd the fabrics made from them (with a focus on historical fabrics), Nicole Rudolph has an ongoing series, currently one video on Silks, one on Linen, and there will be future videos on wools and cottons and whatnot. It’s pretty helpful for understanding the properties of each different fabric (so you can put a name to them) and what they were historically used for.
I agree. That series is great and a perfect source. Together with this video I feel like I have a much better grasp on what to start looking for!
I was going to mention this, too! Thank you!
thanks for the recommendation!
Ou, thanks for that! I'll check it out for sure😊
Thanks I'll check it out! ❤
"If you tend to move or breathe or eat in them." Classic! I do all those things in clothing! lol
I chuckled a lot at that one :D
I have seen people who have not taken these aspects into consideration when buying clothing or making clothing. Dinah Shore had a television program in the sixties or seventies. Some of her evening gowns she was sewn into. A lot of them she could not sit down in them. Not your everyday wardrobe. Some things people wear look like they were painted on. One coat. No primer.
When in doubt, take your paper pattern pieces to the fabric store. Or mark the width of your desired fabric on a table or the floor and lay your pieces out to find out how much fabric you need (humming the tune of Tetris is optional)
My mom learned about different fabrics in elementary school back in the late 60's/early70's. They taught all the kids how to "feel" different fabrics. I can understand why school doesn't teach kids that anymore, but I totally would've been one of those kids who loved learning about fabrics! Thanks for the informative video! Much appreciated! :)
My mother taught me to ALWAYS LOOK FOR THE LABEL in garments, so I'm the one sticking my hand up the side of a shirt or a pair of pants in the store desperately searching for that fibre content label. I always go for natural fibres and I'll only tolerate a very small percentage of synthetic (but prefer none at all) so I'm always looking for that label. With thrifted stuff sometimes the label isn't there if it's a home-sewn garment, or the label's been too damaged by washing but I'm experienced enough with fabric that I can usually get a reasonable idea by feel. BTW it's also good to be familiar with things like the woolmark logo or what fibres are called in other languages, like "reine schurwolle" or if it says "seta/seda/soie" or "puuvilla/baumwolle/coton/algodon" then you know it's wool and silk and cotton respectively.
With buying metreage I always look for the fibre content and for mystery fabric I'll do a burn test (and if it doesn't feel right I won't buy it!)
My daughter’s JROTC classroom was originally the Home Ec classroom. That makes me sad - not that they have JROTC, but that they DON’T have Home Ec of any kind at her school. It’s a very very college-focused school, and I understand that sewing isn’t necessarily a useful skill for making money. But it’s definitely a useful skill in many other ways. Kids these days just don’t have time to squeeze it all in. There has to be a point when outside sources step in and I think sewing is the perfect example. Now that we have RUclips you can learn almost anything at home. But you can’t FEEL THE FABRICS virtually. 😢
I bought the book, "Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book, Second Edition" from Amazon (normally $70-90), it was awesome 😎 to have all the swatches. I am a relatively new sewer, and ALL the different kinds of fabrics were daunting to me. Not only that, but I am very texture oriented when looking at fabrics. While knowing/reading about the "weights or weaves" of fabric online... It helps immensely for me to touch the fabrics to get my head around the different types of fabric and their differences. Money well spent for me.
Oh that's really clever! And same, I *have* to touch it, otherwise I'll never know whether I actually like it, haha
Thank you for suggesting this! This will make fabric shopping much less stressful!
You are a wonder. I’ve never heard anyone impart more concise knowledge in a short format with more clarity. You use your talents very well. Thank you for the information.
Thank you!
I love Mood's swatch options too! If you buy fabric from them you can also earn free swatches. I've been using that option to build a swatch bundle for myself to learn the different weaves and weights and to have a reference of what X fiber Y weave Z weight is. I started with cottons, and now I'm working on linens. It's been a slow process, but it's been helpful for my fabric education.
Now that is a truly great idea! Well done ye!
I am doing something similar. 😆😊
...to wich I must immediately reply even before watching the video: You don't choose the fabric. The fabric chooses you! :D I like your calm and charming demeanor and all your nice projects! Not to speak of your amazing aesthetic
Great and informational video! Thank you for that!
Yes, indeed. Fabric usually "speaks" to me, even about a pattern I did not have in mind at all before going into the store.
Two of the easiest ways to narrow your fabric choice are the following two questions: 1. Does this garment have to be easy to care for? and 2. How much am I willing to spend?
I'm fairly good at telling fabric apart by touch, a skill I learned in my teenage goth days when every item in my wardrobe was black...
Something I do when thrifting is rub the fabric against itself between my hands. If it gets static I put it down because it's probably polyester, and even if it could be a natural fibre the static will turn it into a cat hair magnet.
Hey, do you have any idea which fabrics are more useful for not appearing wet? I know there are some clothes where spills or sweat patches are invisible or almost invisible, but not sure what they are.
@@getmotivated1707 I am far from an expert, but I think the best option might be lycra, the stuff they make swimsuits and exercise clothing out of. If you'd prefer woven fabrics I'd go with a dark colour linen, since dark colours help hide stains and linen is good at absorbing moisture.
This is actually excellent. I've been sewing for ages and I had no difficulty understanding Bianca's descriptions even when she's not confident that she's describing things well. I think that a beginner should experiment with the main quality fabrics - wool suiting, various rayons, cottons, linens and silks. It really doesn't take long to learn what will work best. Never let a mistake destroy your confidence!!!
I really appreciate this video, especially the bit comparing the weight of quilting cotton to apparel cottons. I knew they were different but couldn't articulate why. Not gonna stop me from sewing dresses and skirts with them because most apparel fabrics don't come in the prints I want to wear, but it's still nice to know the difference!
I think of it in terms of structure and purpose. There are some drapey designs that I think work better with thinner quilting cottons. And I just made a dress with box pleats, which worked better with the thicker/stiffer cotton. It's good to know the difference! It's not obvious to the new sewist.
Today I learned:
-Floopy is a technical term
-it's "Challis"
🤣 But seriously, thank you so much for this. Your bucket analogy is spot on. This is really something that can't be taught without hands-on experience, but you did a great job priming people to continue their research.
Thank you! Also Floopy is not considered a word in Words With Friends.
Thank you!
I (and several people for whom I make things) actually have some sensory issues and sensitivity to certain fibers in certain weaves and configurations, the combinations of which aren't always listed on a website, so when buying online instead of in-store where I can feel the fabric, swatches are a godsend for being able to tell not just the true color and weave of a fabric but how it feels and whether it will be okay to wear or drive one of us nuts from constant discomfort. Your breakdown of the different fibers and how they work also helps a lot with being able to classify different fabrics as Safe or Risky in this respect.
Thank you for adding illustrations/diagrams/pictures, personally I find it so much easier to understand.
I know this is two years old but I just came found this and have to say how helpful this is. Thank you so much for creating this video. Thank you so much for this!
I've started ordering swatches when I order fabrics. I'm slowly building a little swatch catalogue for myself so I have some ideas about what a fabric is like.
Much luck to those of you venturing out to fabric stores that you don't come home with too many *bonus* fabrics. I went to Joann a few weeks ago to buy one thing...and just had to look at the clearance table. Big mistake there! LOL! I only came home with one bonus fabric this time because 90% of the stuff was poly, fleece, or upholstery fabrics.
The sale table vortex is real! I order swatches too. So handy.
Absolutely in love with the excessive use of the word ‘floopy’ in this video
I learned more from you about fabrics in this short time than I learned in four years of home ec. Thank you for helping to clear the fog!
Thank you Mary!
Seeking out other makers who have or are making a similar garment as you plan to can also give you some info on what materials might work. Makers who share their projects through blogs, youtube, or instagram sometimes will say what fabric they're using in which fiber, and then you can see how that material behaves when used in that type of garment as it's being completed or when finished!
You're dead right about this knowledge being difficult to acquire as a beginner, especially from books (my first source back in the 1980s). A couple of years into sewing I found a really great sewing teacher who helped out my fibre education - she passed on her knowledge acquired from lots of sewing and introduced me to the various standard tests.
While other people's knowledge is very useful, I found that my eyes and fingers learned about fibres mostly through my own experience. The learning curve is definitely very steep at first, but I found it flattened pretty quickly with a LOT of fabric handling (and, may the universe help me, buying).
I just made a wrap top in rayon because you just wouldn't shut up about how good it is. Well, you were right. I LOVE it - the weight, the drape - just beautiful. AND it was a vintage floral print I found at an op shop - you would have been so proud.
Yes, this was super helpful! Also psyched for the "My 10 Fav Fabrics and What I Make With Them" and "Storytime: I Worked In A Swimsuit Factory, Kinda" (???) videos. :-)
Thank you Cait! It was ever weirder than standard swimwear...it was mermaid tails 😂
@@TheClosetHistorian Oh my word, now we need to hear this story asap! Mermaid tails, I love it!!
Sometimes patterns will have a recommended amount to buy. It's always dependent on what size you're going to make something and again width because fabric is different width, but it might help you get a rough guesstimate about what you might need.
Super helpful! Choosing fabric is where I struggle the most and 9/10xs I choose wrong. Great content! Love your channel ❤️
Thank you Drew!
Love the hint of green in the side of your hair!!! Thanks for the fabric education!!! You look very stylish today (as usual)!!! ♥️♥️♥️💐💐💐
Thank you Alice! 💚
Best explanation of weave and fiber buckets...I am returning to clothing after quilting and not only enjoy but continue to learn from your videos. Always love what you design and especially your personal style.
Thank you Jackie!
I am quite new at sewing (started about 2,5 years ago, but have been knitting for many years). The most problematic thing for me is that I get most of my sewing information from Englih patterns/youtubers/blogs etc, but I am Swedish, living in Sweden, and fabrics are often not called the same or similar thing here, which is a pain when I try to shop both online and in stores. But I hope the more experience I get, the easier it will be. I found your youtube channel this week, and I find it really helpful and informative! :)
Thank you! Yes there are a ton of different names for textiles all over, which adds to the confusion for sure!
While I knew this information, I appreciate your videos. They are a mental health balm and help me get in the zone for my own sewing when I'm stuck in my head
Thank you Lori! ❤
Me: selling vintage clothing for the past three year
CH: here are all the answers you needed three years ago.
Me: I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!
I really enjoy these more information heavy videos you've been doing.
Thank you Ollie!
Thank you. You've provided good information and, for me, assurance that I'm not totally in the dark regarding fabric choices.
This video was very helpful. I didn't think you could use cotton for dress making, but I learnt you can as long as there isn't a lot of draping in it. Cotton mixed with other fibers can soften it and yet give the crisp you need for collars and sleeves.
Nice summary of most useful info bits :)
Fancy names - it is handy if you buy a pattern and need to know what the recommended fabric is like.
Weight - look at the fiber as well. 300g wool is just thick (even 2mm) but still soft, 300g cotton is thinner but tightly woven and stiff as canvas or denim.
I’ve just bought three lengths of Linen Woolsey. As the name suggests it’s linen and wool. It’s washable and I’m going to make some winter items from them. They come from
Merchant & Mills
More information that I did NOT know. Thank you very much!
Oh my god! As a beginner, this video was an amazing find on my RUclips rabbit hole into pattern drafting and reading patterns in general. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this video, I appreciate all the knowledge you were able to share.
I've always felt weird because I have a favorite fabric, Jersey, it's jersey, wool especially and silk which feels out of this world.
Regarding knowing how much fabric you need: we have huge chunks of calico, we have old threadbare sheets, and other stuff that's cheap or free. We use them to make up sample clothes from our patterns. Doing that means we have a good idea of how much fabric we need.
If you have a garment you want to make, pick up something that's a bit similar to what you want to make and give it a try.
I love it when you said 'feel things, see what they're called. I went to Spotlight to do just this and made it to the prints with glitter, bought lots and didn't male it anywhere near the learning lots....I only made it to 'oooooooohhhhhhh pretty' isle. But no matter I now have lots of very pretty glittery table cloths.
Hello from another Aussie! I am like a kid in a candy store at spotlight with oceans of fabric. Long time ago, there used to be this amazing fabric store called Clegs in Melbourne and they specialised in the most luxurious fabrics with so many varieties of silk, sequins, lace and incredible varieties of trimmings. Sadly they closed down a few years ago. Now you can’t get fabrics like pure silk from Spotlight or Lincraft.
This is a fanatic description on a very complex subject.
Thank you Kathryn!
This was so very informative and digestible! It must have taken quite a bit of work to compile all of this knowledge here, not to mention experience. Thank you for this valuable resource, ma'am!
Thank you Darcie!
Your videos are wonderful for me. I have taken up sewing for my new retirement skill and this info and your other videos are full of the knowledge I have been needing.
My Mom would often ask for a small sample (1 x 3 inch aprx) and built a swatch book of her own. She was also a professional potter and did the same thing with glazes but it make for a much heavier "book" :) Anyway, I have followed her lead but primarily keep samples of fabrics I have used (with notes) to help me find the right fabric for the project. PS - I have a sample pillow cover my grandmother made from the scraps of silk and rayon crepes she made her dresses with. I will take some pics to send you -- just for fun.
I always think I should keep a small scrap of everything in case I ever have time to make a big crazy quilt with it all!
Oooooo, goodie! Bonus to look forward to!
Again, so well explained with accessible language and commonsense abounding. Definitely informative, helpful, and encouraging.
Thank you Kaytie!
I love the descriptive word “floopy”
Phoebe Buffay approved! 👏
Bianca, I've been watching your videos for a while now and have noticed how you clip your curves and thought of a tip for you to maybe save a little time (or at least make fewer snips).
When I am getting ready to cut my curves, I fold the edge matching up the stitching and place my scissors close to the stitching and then cut towards the outside instead of taking two cuts to make that wedge cut.
I hope that makes sense and that it will be helpful to you.
God bless and stay safe.
Cathy from Alabama 🥰
I truly enjoyed this video because you told the truth about all of the fabrics out there! No one needs to know about all of the fabrics available, not even designers. For Summer I am a cotton and linen lady and Fall, Winter, and Spring, I am a wool, flannel, silk charmeuse,(for slips/camis), and cotton jerseys and denim. I don't use any of the synthetics except for some natural fibers that get combined with spandex, but even that is rare. When I teach my beginner sewing class, one class is a field trip to the fabric store and we spend over an hour, sometimes 2 hours, going through all of the fabric aisles and then notions, etc. Of course none of that has happened for over a year!! Thank you so much for this walk through fabrics and how we really don't need to know about all of them!!
Ooh silk charmeuse for slips etc. thanks for the tip. 👍 Could I get away with cotton or linen for underthings? If so what weaves (or knit?) and weights would you recommend please? So over synthetic rubbish. 😒
@@emmadavey3892 I don't like cotton for slips or cami's because the cotton fibers catch on the cotton or linen fibers of the fashion fabric and end up riding up on me. I like the silk because the shiny side of the charmeuse is so slippery that it just slides against the cotton or linen. I also wear the cami's under my cotton turtlenecks in Fall, Winter and Spring. Please keep in mind that this is just for me. You may find that doesn't happen with you, so it's worth a try to find out how it works out for you! Good luck!
Thanks Peggy! I wish they had taken us on fabric field trips in fashion school! I mean, I was in school in LA and they could have taken us to the darn garment district! Alas, nope
Nicole Rudolph has a great series on different materials, one on linen, silk etc. They are another great in-depth guide to shopping for fabric
As I've been seeing, I've been making my own swatch book. I have a 3 ring binder, each page h is divided in half. I use double sided tape to hold the fabric square I've cut out. I'll write all the info I have on the fabric: fiber content, weave, laundering instructions, store I bought it from, name of fabric, weight, etc. It's helped me over the years to learn about the fabric I use.
I have no idea when it comes to weave types, but I feel like I don't need to, as I only buy fabric in person and often second hand where there are no lables. So I just look for fiber and how sturdy or drapey it is. And feel it a lot with my hands. As long as I can handle the fabric I am fine without knowing all the names. But I am always practicing how different fibers feels, so I better can identify what I have in my stash that I inherited from my grandmother.
How dense the weave is, is something I have noticed getting more important to me over time, because that has an impact on lots of different properties.
I do not sew as I have told you before. I just wanted to tell you I really enjoy your videos. I like to see what you have made or making. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you Sandra!
My rule is to always buy 3 1/2 yards of any fabric I see and love. That should give me more than enough to work with plus some extra. I also just take either photos or videos of the fabrics that are available, but I don't have a project for yet so I know all the information from the bolt and can review how the fabric acts in my hands.
I found out the hard way that heavy denims don't drape at all. I made a chore coat (Merchant & Mills' Foreman jacket) out of 13oz denim I got on sale, and because of how boxy the cut is and how skinny I am the excess material in the back stuck out like a tent. When I tried to put darts in to correct it they just straight up didn't work, the material was too stiff. I ended up sewing two buttons to the small of the back and making a half belt to pull in the centre back. Lesson learnt, make a mock-up and use sensible weight fabric. Next project is to remake the same jacket in a 6oz cotton duck canvas.
This video came just at the right time! I’ve got several projects in mind for the next couple weeks and this has been super helpful!
I am by no means a knit expert (quite frankly I loathe working with it, and this is coming from someone who works with silk charmeuse, chiffon, and even gauze regularly) but if you *must* work with knit, save yourself the headache and invest in a good knit presser foot for your machine, as it will save you much time and hair tearing out..... To be honest if I can get away with it I prefer rayon crepe if I need something with a bit of give... but it also has nowhere near the stretch of an actual knit, so I can understand the siren's call of knits.
On another note, big gripe, I hate when sellers list fabric as "silk" like it's a synonym for satin weave rather than a fiber, and so it shows up when you search for said fiber, and you click on it and it's polyester. It's also incredibly annoying during garment district runs as well if you don't know the seller because a lot of them will try and sell you polyester under the guise of it being silk because they assume you're just looking for satin weave and don't care.
A me è capitato un signore che mi diceva " è seta" quando il prezzo era 3 euro al metro al mercato rionale. Oh l' ho comprata, perché mi piaceva il disegno, ma di sicuro non mi azzarderei a dire a nessuno " è seta". Anche il popeline io ho chiesto cotone ma ha una quantità di spandex esagerata per una camicia classica e formale.
This was great. Very informative and most helpful. You're an excellent teacher...and I always look forward to your humorous quips.
Thank you Artemisa!
Thank you for this concise video! I shall refer other sewists to it.
I do sometimes order swatches, but it is usually to add to my fabric reference book which is becoming, as the young people are saying, thicc.
Thank you Maleah!
I just started sewing, currently doing an epp quilt project and hand stitching, but i went nuts on ebay...i now own quite possibly hundreds of yards of fabric, mostly upholstery cotton/linen, but also lots of velvet, along with my fat quarters and scraps...i will use all of it eventually, but man, its so easy to go on a spree! Im excited to learn how to work with all the difficult fabrics I've collected, and glad to have a bit of everything to try. If anyone is in Glasgow and would like some, hit me up 😅❤
Looking forward to the video about your favourite fabrics 😀. Thanks for this one, it was interesting
Thank you Rachel!
Super helpful! Thank you!! I am more of a novice sewist, so hearing this information all together in one video is very helpful. I feel like I can always learn something new :)
Thank you!
I just recently started sewing over the last year and I really needed this!! Now I just need to find somebody else to explain knits for me in the same clear way that you did for wovens lol
Thank you, this has been so useful. I know enough about fabrics to know that I really don't know enough about fabrics :), so a conversational and easily understandable video like this one goes a long way to filling in those knowledge gaps! 🙌
Thank you Michelle!
Watched this while having dinner. Great humour, fantastic style, a lot of helpful and really interesting knowledge shared - only three out of many reasons why this video is a treat. Thank you so much Bianca ! :)
Thank you Mari!
The wand chooses the wizard, Harry Potter stated confidently Mr. Olivander.
Well put :) my thoughts exactly!
This would be a great topic to have a decision chart for, at least to use as a starting point.
Amazing! The information on the fabric weights was a game changer for me, but also, mood come on with the sponsorship already. 👏🏾👏🏾👌🏾
Thank you!
Extremely helpful thank you for sharing. I am in the middle of making a bridal outfit what you are saying has really helped me choose what fabric to buy.
Thank you Sarah!
Love the video. It was helpful even though I almost exclusively buy from my local thrift/off cut store. I’m a buy the fabric, find the project kind of person.
Thank you Kelly! I often fall in love with fabrics and then choose the project afterwards for sure 😅
Thank you very much for the aclarations. In my trip to the vintage I have had several unfortunate events regarding the fabric and I needed the tips that you have given.
Thank you Artemisa!
Thank you for sharing this information about fabrics, it's so helpful and watching you is always fun.hope your Etse goes really well.💖
Thank you Lesley!
So so SO helpful. Thank you for helping us newbies
Thank you for a very-informative video! I ordered *Heavy Dull Satin* to make an 80s (1980s; with you I should specify the century ;)- style skirt suit as Fabricland specified that as a "suiting" material about a fortnight ago. It looks and feels good, but I couldn't tell you if it were a twill or a sateen or whatnot! It is heavy and devoid of stretch, so I think it is a tight many-thread weave (it was costly enough), but I didn't even think of that until I saw this video!
Thank you and God bless!
Twill is easy to spot since it has a clear diagonal in the weave which can be seen where the light hits your fabric. This is because the weave is over one under 2(or more) , staggered row by row. If the finish is shiny, a sateen weave is more likely. Its the usual weave for shiny lightweight(relatively speaking) fabrics, hence calling shiny lightweight fabrics "satin"
I totally bought that art deco print for a 1930s dress! Haven't made it yet though. hehe
I am constantly tempted by that one 😂
I really like the floopy fabric. Not to sew but to feel. Lol. You tickle me with your description words
Better to wear than to sew with that's for sure! 😂
I would like to suggest the books Fabric Savvy and More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina, wonderful resource books with detailed information on the fabrics, what they are suitable for, sewing tips and needles to use and pressure feet.
a tip i saw once to know how much fabric you'll need is: know the width of the fabric, then put 2 rulers or other straight long things parallel that width apart. then you arrange your pattern pieces between those 2 lines how you would on the actual fabric and then you measure the length.
Lovely video as always! Now I at least have more of an idea of what I can do with the fabrics I have in my stash (or at least what kinds of patterns would be suitable for them)!
Thank you Joelle!
This was so informative. There's so much to take into consideration.
Thank you Kelli!
Thank you. This video was very enlightening and I am appreciative of you sharing this knowledge. Off to mood to research I go!
Great video! Even I didnt learned something new I liked to watch / listen it :D
I only want to add that Evelyn Wood made a similar video recently and she talks a bit about chosing knits too, so maybe thats something for people to watch who want to learn about them too.
My sewing interests are 18th and 19th century and I live in a hot humid climate so I'm constantly on the lookout for linen. When thrifting I often come across "linen look" fabrics that are anything but linen. When you look closely they do a pretty good job of looking like linen but they don't behave like linen. However, the slubs in true linen are random. The fake slubs in fake linen are not. If you hold the fabric at arms length and look at it a pattern to the slubs begins to emerge. That's the dead giveaway for fake linen. This doesn't work for fabrics with some linen content but it can keep from you from buying "linen" that is really just cotton, polyester or rayon.
For such a big question you actually answered it really well! Thanks!
Thank you!
Thank you so much this is a great start to get a basic idea of fabrics so very helpful. Very informative as usual Bianca.
Hi Bianca!! This video is so so helpful, I can’t thank you enough.. Deeply appreciate all your time it took to produce the content for this….
💜💜💜🧵🧵🧵
Lots of juicy tips. many thanks. 🌼
Thank you so much for making this video!! This and the Fabric Basics video you mentioned were so so helpful! I actually took notes in my sewing journal like a proper student :)
Thank you Lisa! ❤
Always delightfully educational
Thanks B
Delightful, useful, perfect as always 🥰
Thank you Ailsa!
Thank you! As someone who has knowledge mainly of modern casualwear, I was wondering when choosing a petticoat or underskirt fabric, how slick the fabric has to be?
Hmm! It depends on the type of petticoat really. I usually buy floofy petticoats because sewing one takes a lot of fabric and is quite a pain in the arse (I get mine from Malco Modes) and they are made from soft nylon chiffon. For things like a skirt slip I would probably choose a silk charmeuse or rayon satin, but usually I just buy them again, as there are pretty vintage ones from the 50's and 60's for pretty inexpensive online 😅
@@TheClosetHistorian Thank you!
I love the way you make your video's! Can you make another catalog video? I looove those!!
Thank you! Soon! I have just invested in a giant scanner so I don't have to spend 2-3 full days just scanning each page in two halves on my tiny printer scanner anymore 😅
Biggest tip i have: for lighter, high quality fabric in great condition, Thrift curtains! High quality curtains will be lined to protect the fabric from sun bleaching. Theyll need a good wash but no one ever touches or spills on curtains and you can get decent quality if youre willing to work with panels. I have 8 beautiful lined champagne silk dupioni 90"long curtain panels that i paid $5 for.....yeah. 😎
This was extremely helpful. Thank you very much!
Thank you so much for making it simple for me. You did a great job!! I have mostly woven so the information you provided, I feel much better and will hopefully give it a go.
Thank you Jeannie!
I have a hard time imagining how the lighter textiles in my fabric store are going to feel after I have washed the stiffness out of them, so to speak.
Last year I didn’t even know they put stiffening in some lighter fabrics. Not sure stiffening is the right word either, but I’m sure you understand what I mean.
So last year I was looking for a light weight cotton something something and I couldn’t find anything that felt like it was the right thing… because everything felt stiff and crispy… because it had been stiffened…
So, that’s a thing to keep in mind for us noobs as well 🥰
"Sizing" is the term for that stiffening product, and it can be tricky as sizing is sometimes desirable and is not intended to be washed out, making some fabrics and, by extension, some garments dry-clean only.
@@icidiots13 Sizing! Got it ☺️
on dry clean you can put it on hand wash to i do it all the time
Loved the Canadian "eh?". Often a non-Canadian uses "eh" in the wrong context, but that was bang-on.
Thank you for the video.
Really informative video, amazing research and exemples. Thank you Bianca!
Thank you Iara!
Thank you for this video! I always love watching your content, but lately in particular I’ve had Bees in my Brain and needed something substantial and informative to distract me. I’ve started working at a small sewing pattern company this year and it’s given me a great opportunity to dive headlong into sewing and garment related learning. :3
That sounds like a very cool place to work indeed!