For the timing i set all of the locking tools in place. Cylinder 1 at TDC and set the pulley with the alignment tool, cam phaser lock tool, cam locking tool and im still getting code p0016 and p0011
@@robbies6386 the power train is only covered for 60k unless you opted for extended warranty. If you bought pre owned it doesn't carry over from the original owner. 105k currently stage 2 and unfortunately my baby has a knock right now dropping my oil pan tomorrow at the shop to inspect 😅
Very useful video thank you. I was unable to see the torque settings used. Particularly interested in the rear crank oil seal plate and oil pump on other end of crank? What are these set to please?
Thanks for putting the effort into creating this video, Jim! It is much appreciated. A small question. Do you remember if you kept the crankshaft pulley alignment tool installed while tightening the crankshaft bolt? The workshop manual says to remove it before tightening with tools, but I kind of fear that the pulley might rotate while tightening.
That block has the slits between the cylinders man i hate to see you do all that work and its going to fail with coolant intrusion ...( Not the mechanics fault that is a manufacturer defect ) but good work
Yeah, and the drive shafts were still in, its not ideal but the block itself didnt weigh much and once the sump was back on I supported it properly, if I hadnt been forced to strip it this way id have dropped it completely out with transmission , subframe etc still attached then built it on a bench complete as possible then bolted it all back up as one piece 👍
How does the ECU knows where the cranckshaft is when you rebuild the engine? Do you need to reset the ECU after rebuilding an engine in order to start it?
No need to reset an ecu or anything after the engine build, unless youve flagged up a fault code somehow, and the ecu picks up signals from the crank with the crankshaft sensor and compares it with data recieved from the camshaft sensors, aslong as the timing is right and everything is fitted right it would recieve the correct signals and should fire up (a very basic explanation ) hope that helps 👍
Hey Jim, last question I promise. I hope 😂. Camshaft locking tool that locks it in position to put your sprockets on. The little indent line on the exhaust sprocket is pointing up the way where it should be. The inlet sprocket where it has a little indent dot on the sprocket is the 3o.clock position as opposed to the 12 position. But this is the only way the locking tool will fit. Take it I won't get away with it?? Could the timing tool be wrong? It looks identical to every other one I can find.😢 Many thanks again.
Hmmm thats odd, I would start by checking the timing tool is the right way up and the right way round, then double check you have put the cams and the sprockets on in the correct way / order (e.g youve put inlet cam or sprocket in exhaust cam spot by accident.) The timing marks always line up in my experience unless somethings wrong or if for instance you have accidentally brought a timing tool for say a mounttune stage timing kit which would retard or advance the timing using the sprockets but it wouldnt be anywhere near as much as your saying and would be both cams...
Yes anywhere like amazon etc sell them or any carparts store probably will but be abit more expensive, dont time it up with the mounttune tool unless your going down that route of remapping and modifying or youll end up with all sorts of problems and eml lights
@@ALLTHINGSJIM it came from Ford like that. Totally forgot because we removed all the badges due to the amount of them being stolen. Haven't a clue whether it has been remapped. Bought it when it was 3 year old and it had the yellow mounttune badge on the back and mounttune air box. Other than that I don't know. Appreciate you taking the time to answer. Kind of limbo now. Would Ford be able to tell me if its an original mounttune do you think?
Hmmm. If it had the badges and still has the airbox and came with the tool itself that would leave me to logically think its been remapped to mountune stage 2 or 3 or someone intended to.... i dont suppose you took pictures of the timing marks or cams before you removed it all so you could look back for reference? None of them came standard with it as its an aftermarket ford approved product so unless you contacted the dealers that fitted it all they wouldnt know.... time it up using that tool and turn it over by hand 4-8 times to make sure nothing touches etc... once youve made sure of that you can rebuild the rest and try starting and running it to see how it runs and see if any eml lights come on etc and if ok road test it (if it isnt you have your answer).. OR just buy a standard tool and time it up normally but if it has been remapped it may put the eml light on or run wierd and youd either have to get the standard programming back on ecu at a dealer or re time it with the tool you have ...
Hi Jim I have a focus 2010 zetec s 1.6 ti-vct on cold start it seems to be very tappy or rattly and when the engine is under load when driving hot or cold I release the accelerator it makes a tapping noise I suspect the hydraulic tappets are faulty have you had this complaint thanks
Hey Jim, do you have the torque settings for the camshaft sprocket bolts, the t55 headed ones that connect it to the camshaft? Haynes manual only gives you the 1.25l torques. Can't find this info anywhere. Would really ap😮preciate your help. Its the st180 2014.
Without looking, If its the pulleys with the timing tool that goes on the front to hold them, im pretty sure its 72NM but I always just did them to 75NM if my memory serves me correct...
For the oil pan can you use white rtv silicone or does it have to be black? Also torque spec on oil pan bolts? Haven't been able to find this information anywhere
Im unaware of the properties of white rtv sealent so id still use black as its oil / heat resistant and if ypy mean the 8mm bolts they only need to be around 12-14NM. Thanks for watching 👍👍
I need engine block assembly for my ford fiesta 1.6 2012 manual transmission, there is no any ford main dealership in my country indonesia. Someone can help please
Hi Jim, when I disassembled the two cam shaft, I didn't mark them, so now that I have to put it together, what is the intake cam shaft or the exhaust. thanks, greetings from argentina
Damn, ive never really done that , i keep them all in order, off the top of my head..if you look at the camshafts I believe one has more lobes than the other, the one with more lobes it the exhaust camshaft. If you pause at 11:02 you can see the exhaust one has more lobes 👍
I dont but, According to the internet old bolts should be discarded and new ones used. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil before installation. Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in.) Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in.) Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft.) Tighten an additional 75 degrees. Do them in the order: 8 - 6 - 1 - 3 - 9 10 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 7 Then for the camshaft "retaining caps" stage 1 is 10nm, stage 2 is 19nm. Hope that helped
No! They need to go in a certain way, theres a timing tool for them of youve removed the sprokets too, otherwise it will open the valves at the wrong time and bend them all
Which studs are you refering to? Use a stud remover to get them out or find 2 nuts that fit the thread and pit them on the stud you want to remove, tighten them together then using just the lower nut tighten it against the top nut and it should removr the stud 👍
Your advice would be very much appreciated. Have two camshaft sprocket plug/caps that have been torqued by king Kong using a 40ft torque wrench. They will simply not move. Any ideas? Just subbed.
Ive never had a problem taking those off, they shouldnt be that tight.... either get a longer ratchet / bar on it or you could try giving it a slight smack with the flat edge of a hammer then try undoing them, sometimes the shock of the impact helps jolt them free
@@ALLTHINGSJIM my husband says he has never experienced anything like it all. They are now massacred and still not moving . He's thinking he may have to weld a bolt on to it. Was hoping you had maybe experienced it. Not that I would wish it on you. Thanks though for replying.
I wonder how someones managed to get them that tight, before he tries welding a bolt on mabie try heating up the cap and using a chizel and hammer to tap it round, make sure the timing pins are in at the time though. Hope you get it sorted, sorry I cant be any further help 👍
Hello Jim, I found your RUclips channel a while ago, and so far I've seen all of your videos, so massive shoot out to you and your work. To the point, I am currently waiting for my Focus RS which I bid in an auction some time ago. Ford is of course used, but the engine, as auction said, is running. Auction photos are from November 28 so It will be a while when I receive a car at the beginning of February. My question is, what you recommend to do with the engine after a long break of not using like this? Do I have to do something or to not bother yourself? Maybe disassembly oil sump and clean the engine with air pressure to get rid of old oil? Thanks in advance
Hi, glad you like my videos and thanks for the support 😁, as far as your RS i would just charge the battery up and check the oil level while engines cold, if its got enough oil in and some fuel, give it a start, if it doesnt fire up or splutters alot the fuel may have started going bad after standing a few months so id probably drain it and fill with fresh quality fuel. If it starts just let it run and warm up, dont rev it and once its nice and hot, then drain the oil and filters and replace with fresh, dont bother with an oil flush additive, they cause more damage than good sometimes on these sorts of performance engines, hope that helps 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I asked because I had heard somewhere the opinion that old/unused engine oil may stick/glue a bit, some engine parts instead of lubricating them and then cause them to wear out excessively, like for example a crankshaft bearing. But that's only someone's opinion. Take care. All the best.
Hi is it possible for a cam to be put in upside down and if so how do i determine which side should face up or is it aslong as the timing tool fits its correctly rotated?
Hi, yes they will be the right way up if the timing tool can be easily put in and removed, however you can put them in the wrong way (i.e exhaust on intake etc..)
The engine looks very good but you are putting back that overheated flywheel ? With all that work into the engine would have been better resurface the flywheel at this time...
Yeah unfortunately as warrenty wont pay for new ones and the customer didnt want to either, but I agree with you, if it were my personal car and money I would change them after doing all that
I'm looking for info for a head gasket replacement. It's on a escape 1.6 but it's the same engine. Do you have the torque sequence and specs for the head and cams by chance?
I dont but, According to the internet old bolts should be discarded and new ones used. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil before installation. Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in.) Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in.) Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft.) Tighten an additional 75 degrees. Do them in the order: 8 - 6 - 1 - 3 - 9 10 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 7 Then for the camshaft "retaining caps" stage 1 is 10nm, stage 2 is 19nm. Hope that helped
Yes, but not the way i had to take it out because the transmission etc was left in place, its easier to build the engine out of the car with transmission and subframe /steering rack etc off then bolt it all back up together 👍
Hi Jim just wondering since your at Ford's a lot I have a 1.6 Ecoboost focus 2012 reg only loosing coolant after a few hours of driving it is leaking have you ever seen this I was thinking the degas hose . Many thanks
Hi there, Generally its not the Degas hose on those engines, although they can leak they are fitted with a fatter one than the 1.0 ecoboost pipe which snaps- has your car had the coolant sensor recall? Generally those engines will leak coolant from the thermostat housing gasket, or a cracked coolant expansion bottle both of which are changed with the recall. But without looking at it its just guess work, Hope that helps though 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM hi jim yes the recall was done and it's only happening since that . It is from the rear of the engine it is leaking onto the passenger side driveshaft . I will have a look again . It justweird how it is only after a couple of hours driving . Thanks a lot
If its there it may be one of the spring clips on the coolant pipe wasnt released so its not tight enough and is leaking, best just pop it back to whoevers done it and let them sort it as its since the recall 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM hi Jim found the leak it is comming from the thermostat housing directly from the top of the gearbox . I'm going to strip it tomorrow . Thanks a lot
Have to rebuild my FiST very soon since I have suffered piston problem. Would like to ask why not you dont rebuild the whole engine on the floor and put the whole engine into the car
@@ALLTHINGSJIM for the short block with the oil pump installed, how can you put it back to join with the gearbox ? How heavy is the short block ? Thanks
The engine built with head on is very heavy, youd need a engine hoist to lift it in, the short block itself with the sump etc on isnt that heavy, just abit heavier than what the gearbox would weigh id guess, to put them back together assuming youve done it this way and not just removed it complete with gearbox is to align the engine with the gearbox and wiggle it together then put the gearbox bolts in once its inline
Brilliant video, exactly what I was looking for, for this engine. Do you think it's easy enough for someone knew who hasn't built/replaced an engine before? I'm looking into just replacing the bottom end. Thanks!
Thanks for commenting! Erm I find them easy enough , its hard to say for you as I dont know your skill level or temperment! Aha. You can do anything if you put your mind to it, take your time and follow the manufacturers instructions and torque everything youd be fine 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Haha, I'm ok doing anything that's not major to do with the engine, the furthest I've gone is replacing the re-circulation valve! I do want to try something more major, such as the transmission or something! Do you know where I can find the service manual (I think it's called) that has all the specs for the engine when building it, etc? Thanks!
Im sure it is repairable by someone with the skills however ford just make you replace them and dont give you any torque settings for big end bearings , rods, etc
Thanks! And this is only my second headgasket on a 1.6 ecoboost st engine, and thats only because they were both neglected and didnt have the coolant recall in time also. The recall solves this problem, it changes most of the coolant hoses a new expansion bottle, water by pass valve a new thermostat that opens sooner and a coolant level sensor is installed along with a load of new wiring so after the recall theres nothing to worry about 👍👍👍
Hi there, yes they are direct injection engines, and No I wouldnt personally bother with an O.C.C. they are fairly pointless tbh. Most of the fluids it might catch wouldnt end up being oil blow by anyway just a random amount of excess fuel / water mixture. And they can cause other problems so they arnt worth the money. 👍
I know this is an old comment but on my 2.0 ecoboost in my 15 escape I completely bypassed the pcv after I seen the valves and how coked up they were and their was oil all in my intake tubes like at least a half quart it was like honey coating the whole Intake. I took caps and blocked off the intake manifold port and the port on the intake tube after the filter that goes to the valve cover and routed the crank vents to the atmosphere, it's been 30k miles no problems and no more carbon buildup just be sure to route the hoses under your car or when you run the air or heat your vehicle will smell like strong gas fumes trust me my wife about kicked my ass when I routed them into the engine bay.
I believe that using a high quality,fully synthetic oil and a high quality filter will provide better results than a catch can. I also do not run the oil to the factory recommended drain interval. The added cost of this has been paid back with zero mechanical issues and almost zero valve gunk in six years of use and monitoring.
Depends on the person who has rebuilt it in all honesty, if youve got someone who takes pride in what they do and rebuilds it properly then theyre as completely reliable as a new engine, if youve got someone who just slaps stuff together without a care in the world then probably not 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I was looking at getting it done from authorised service center in India with all original parts. Planning to get my Ford 1.4 TDCi engine on my Fiesta completely rebuilt. It clocked in 350,000 KMs or close to 190,000 miles before it died.
Why does everyone put assembly oil on engines that are planned to be used almost straight after building them? there's literally no point, assembly oil is only really best if you plan to leave the engine sit for a long time after building it. It won't cause damage but it's a waste of assembly oil, save it for the time you'll really need it :)
For the timing i set all of the locking tools in place. Cylinder 1 at TDC and set the pulley with the alignment tool, cam phaser lock tool, cam locking tool and im still getting code p0016 and p0011
Thanks for putting the time and effort into making these , learning so much has never been such a joy! More fiesta stuff please , especially ST XD
Thanks for the amazing comment!
V. good to watch it whenever need to work on something on 1.6 ecoboost!
Hey man, thanks for posting this. Will def come in handy when the inevitable happens to my little boost-caboose lol.
Apparently the eco boost engine is covered under warranty for 10 years and same with the manual gearbox but correct me if I’m wrong
@@robbies6386 the power train is only covered for 60k unless you opted for extended warranty. If you bought pre owned it doesn't carry over from the original owner. 105k currently stage 2 and unfortunately my baby has a knock right now dropping my oil pan tomorrow at the shop to inspect 😅
another awesome video from you Jim . you make it look so easy time the engine and what not. keep them coming fella
Thanks for the awesome comment! 😁👍👍👍
thats a lot of work for a ecoboost 1.6l
thank god the 2.0l is not as labor intensive when i finally have to rebuild my 07 focus
Wow, very professional job. Greetings from Poland 👌😎
Thanks! And thanks for commenting 👍
Great video man, thank you to share with us your experience...
Very useful video thank you. I was unable to see the torque settings used. Particularly interested in the rear crank oil seal plate and oil pump on other end of crank? What are these set to please?
Video Great sir
What is the initial torque for cylinder head before setting 2 90 degrees? Thanks
Thanks for putting the effort into creating this video, Jim! It is much appreciated.
A small question. Do you remember if you kept the crankshaft pulley alignment tool installed while tightening the crankshaft bolt? The workshop manual says to remove it before tightening with tools, but I kind of fear that the pulley might rotate while tightening.
seeing those slits between the cylinders on the block... its only a matter of time before the headgasket fails again.
Great video, thanks for sharing
2:10 heat exchanger? If not, what is that?
I'm currently doing a valve job on mine
Have you ever needed to replace a faulty vct cam pully on 1.6 due to a rattle noise?
Not yet I havent no, sorry
Was the new heads resurfaced.??
Thanks! These videos are a life saver
That block has the slits between the cylinders man i hate to see you do all that work and its going to fail with coolant intrusion ...( Not the mechanics fault that is a manufacturer defect ) but good work
Open deck & doing an engine rebuild.
Well there is a surprise
I didn’t see you put on the turbo and manifold
Just to make sure, when you put in the new block (at the 4 min mark)...the only thing supporting the engine was the transmission mounts?
Yeah, and the drive shafts were still in, its not ideal but the block itself didnt weigh much and once the sump was back on I supported it properly, if I hadnt been forced to strip it this way id have dropped it completely out with transmission , subframe etc still attached then built it on a bench complete as possible then bolted it all back up as one piece 👍
educational video but... what frosting do you use at 4:36? mine is really bitter.
Good vid but missed showing us a sheet load of gaskets and o rings you NEED.
So many burn spots on the flywheel, no resurfacing or replacement??
No, I had wanted to but warrenty wont pay for it and customer didnt want to spend any money at all...
Thanks...
How does the ECU knows where the cranckshaft is when you rebuild the engine?
Do you need to reset the ECU after rebuilding an engine in order to start it?
No need to reset an ecu or anything after the engine build, unless youve flagged up a fault code somehow, and the ecu picks up signals from the crank with the crankshaft sensor and compares it with data recieved from the camshaft sensors, aslong as the timing is right and everything is fitted right it would recieve the correct signals and should fire up (a very basic explanation ) hope that helps 👍
Hey Jim, last question I promise. I hope 😂. Camshaft locking tool that locks it in position to put your sprockets on. The little indent line on the exhaust sprocket is pointing up the way where it should be. The inlet sprocket where it has a little indent dot on the sprocket is the 3o.clock position as opposed to the 12 position. But this is the only way the locking tool will fit. Take it I won't get away with it?? Could the timing tool be wrong? It looks identical to every other one I can find.😢 Many thanks again.
Hmmm thats odd, I would start by checking the timing tool is the right way up and the right way round, then double check you have put the cams and the sprockets on in the correct way / order (e.g youve put inlet cam or sprocket in exhaust cam spot by accident.) The timing marks always line up in my experience unless somethings wrong or if for instance you have accidentally brought a timing tool for say a mounttune stage timing kit which would retard or advance the timing using the sprockets but it wouldnt be anywhere near as much as your saying and would be both cams...
@@ALLTHINGSJIM shit ours is a mounttune. Where does that leave us? Can you buy the proper timing kit for it?
Yes anywhere like amazon etc sell them or any carparts store probably will but be abit more expensive, dont time it up with the mounttune tool unless your going down that route of remapping and modifying or youll end up with all sorts of problems and eml lights
@@ALLTHINGSJIM it came from Ford like that. Totally forgot because we removed all the badges due to the amount of them being stolen. Haven't a clue whether it has been remapped. Bought it when it was 3 year old and it had the yellow mounttune badge on the back and mounttune air box. Other than that I don't know. Appreciate you taking the time to answer. Kind of limbo now. Would Ford be able to tell me if its an original mounttune do you think?
Hmmm. If it had the badges and still has the airbox and came with the tool itself that would leave me to logically think its been remapped to mountune stage 2 or 3 or someone intended to.... i dont suppose you took pictures of the timing marks or cams before you removed it all so you could look back for reference? None of them came standard with it as its an aftermarket ford approved product so unless you contacted the dealers that fitted it all they wouldnt know.... time it up using that tool and turn it over by hand 4-8 times to make sure nothing touches etc... once youve made sure of that you can rebuild the rest and try starting and running it to see how it runs and see if any eml lights come on etc and if ok road test it (if it isnt you have your answer).. OR just buy a standard tool and time it up normally but if it has been remapped it may put the eml light on or run wierd and youd either have to get the standard programming back on ecu at a dealer or re time it with the tool you have ...
just had my ecoboost engine rebuilt good to see how its done. thanks
666unlight666 what did it cost you?
So now the engine number doesnt match with the chassis number or V5 anymore?
Witam ile kosztuje taki blog silnika kolego????
Hi Jim I have a focus 2010 zetec s 1.6 ti-vct on cold start it seems to be very tappy or rattly and when the engine is under load when driving hot or cold I release the accelerator it makes a tapping noise I suspect the hydraulic tappets are faulty have you had this complaint thanks
Did you put on a new cylinder head buddy or machine the old one ?
Amazing video!
Thankyou, glad you liked it!
Hey Jim, do you have the torque settings for the camshaft sprocket bolts, the t55 headed ones that connect it to the camshaft? Haynes manual only gives you the 1.25l torques. Can't find this info anywhere. Would really ap😮preciate your help. Its the st180 2014.
Without looking, If its the pulleys with the timing tool that goes on the front to hold them, im pretty sure its 72NM but I always just did them to 75NM if my memory serves me correct...
@@ALLTHINGSJIM thank you so much.
For the oil pan can you use white rtv silicone or does it have to be black? Also torque spec on oil pan bolts? Haven't been able to find this information anywhere
Im unaware of the properties of white rtv sealent so id still use black as its oil / heat resistant and if ypy mean the 8mm bolts they only need to be around 12-14NM. Thanks for watching 👍👍
I need engine block assembly for my ford fiesta 1.6 2012 manual transmission, there is no any ford main dealership in my country indonesia.
Someone can help please
Hi Jim, when I disassembled the two cam shaft, I didn't mark them, so now that I have to put it together, what is the intake cam shaft or the exhaust. thanks, greetings from argentina
Damn, ive never really done that , i keep them all in order, off the top of my head..if you look at the camshafts I believe one has more lobes than the other, the one with more lobes it the exhaust camshaft. If you pause at 11:02 you can see the exhaust one has more lobes 👍
I had the recall done then my head gasket went 😭😭😭 any chance you still have the Torque setting for the head bolts cam caps and bottom pully bolts
I dont but, According to the internet old bolts should be discarded and new ones used. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil before installation.
Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in.)
Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in.)
Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft.)
Tighten an additional 75 degrees. Do them in the order:
8 - 6 - 1 - 3 - 9
10 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 7
Then for the camshaft "retaining caps" stage 1 is 10nm, stage 2 is 19nm.
Hope that helped
ALL THINGS JIM thank you loved your videos by the way
Can you put the camshaft in any order meaning the lobes hitting which ever caps?
No! They need to go in a certain way, theres a timing tool for them of youve removed the sprokets too, otherwise it will open the valves at the wrong time and bend them all
Where do you get the studs for the top of the new block? I got one here but no studs?
Which studs are you refering to? Use a stud remover to get them out or find 2 nuts that fit the thread and pit them on the stud you want to remove, tighten them together then using just the lower nut tighten it against the top nut and it should removr the stud 👍
Your advice would be very much appreciated. Have two camshaft sprocket plug/caps that have been torqued by king Kong using a 40ft torque wrench. They will simply not move. Any ideas? Just subbed.
Hi , by camshaft spocket plug do you mean the cap on the end of the sprocket covering the bolt (with the allen key )
@@ALLTHINGSJIM that's the one.
Ive never had a problem taking those off, they shouldnt be that tight.... either get a longer ratchet / bar on it or you could try giving it a slight smack with the flat edge of a hammer then try undoing them, sometimes the shock of the impact helps jolt them free
@@ALLTHINGSJIM my husband says he has never experienced anything like it all. They are now massacred and still not moving . He's thinking he may have to weld a bolt on to it. Was hoping you had maybe experienced it. Not that I would wish it on you. Thanks though for replying.
I wonder how someones managed to get them that tight, before he tries welding a bolt on mabie try heating up the cap and using a chizel and hammer to tap it round, make sure the timing pins are in at the time though. Hope you get it sorted, sorry I cant be any further help 👍
Hello Jim,
I found your RUclips channel a while ago,
and so far I've seen all of your videos, so massive shoot out to you and your work. To the point, I am currently waiting for my Focus RS which I bid in an auction some time ago. Ford is of course used, but the engine, as auction said, is running. Auction photos are from November 28 so It will be a while when I receive a car at the beginning of February. My question is, what you recommend to do with the engine after a long break of not using like this? Do I have to do something or to not bother yourself? Maybe disassembly oil sump and clean the engine with air pressure to get rid of old oil? Thanks in advance
Hi, glad you like my videos and thanks for the support 😁, as far as your RS i would just charge the battery up and check the oil level while engines cold, if its got enough oil in and some fuel, give it a start, if it doesnt fire up or splutters alot the fuel may have started going bad after standing a few months so id probably drain it and fill with fresh quality fuel. If it starts just let it run and warm up, dont rev it and once its nice and hot, then drain the oil and filters and replace with fresh, dont bother with an oil flush additive, they cause more damage than good sometimes on these sorts of performance engines, hope that helps 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I asked because I had heard somewhere the opinion that old/unused engine oil may stick/glue a bit, some engine parts instead of lubricating them and then cause them to wear out excessively, like for example a crankshaft bearing. But that's only someone's opinion. Take care. All the best.
Is there any chance of getting in touch for a convo? Currently changing head gasket on my fiesta st
Hi is it possible for a cam to be put in upside down and if so how do i determine which side should face up or is it aslong as the timing tool fits its correctly rotated?
Hi, yes they will be the right way up if the timing tool can be easily put in and removed, however you can put them in the wrong way (i.e exhaust on intake etc..)
The engine looks very good but you are putting back that overheated flywheel ?
With all that work into the engine would have been better resurface the flywheel at this time...
Yeah unfortunately as warrenty wont pay for new ones and the customer didnt want to either, but I agree with you, if it were my personal car and money I would change them after doing all that
I'm looking for info for a head gasket replacement. It's on a escape 1.6 but it's the same engine. Do you have the torque sequence and specs for the head and cams by chance?
I dont but, According to the internet old bolts should be discarded and new ones used. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil before installation.
Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in.)
Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in.)
Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft.)
Tighten an additional 75 degrees. Do them in the order:
8 - 6 - 1 - 3 - 9
10 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 7
Then for the camshaft "retaining caps" stage 1 is 10nm, stage 2 is 19nm.
Hope that helped
Can the engine be assembled out of the car?
Yes, but not the way i had to take it out because the transmission etc was left in place, its easier to build the engine out of the car with transmission and subframe /steering rack etc off then bolt it all back up together 👍
ALL THINGS JIM I thought as much, the engine bay usually bite my hands off
Hi Jim just wondering since your at Ford's a lot I have a 1.6 Ecoboost focus 2012 reg only loosing coolant after a few hours of driving it is leaking have you ever seen this I was thinking the degas hose .
Many thanks
Hi there, Generally its not the Degas hose on those engines, although they can leak they are fitted with a fatter one than the 1.0 ecoboost pipe which snaps- has your car had the coolant sensor recall? Generally those engines will leak coolant from the thermostat housing gasket, or a cracked coolant expansion bottle both of which are changed with the recall. But without looking at it its just guess work, Hope that helps though 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM hi jim yes the recall was done and it's only happening since that .
It is from the rear of the engine it is leaking onto the passenger side driveshaft .
I will have a look again .
It justweird how it is only after a couple of hours driving .
Thanks a lot
If its there it may be one of the spring clips on the coolant pipe wasnt released so its not tight enough and is leaking, best just pop it back to whoevers done it and let them sort it as its since the recall 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM hi Jim found the leak it is comming from the thermostat housing directly from the top of the gearbox .
I'm going to strip it tomorrow . Thanks a lot
It appears that your short block has the dreaded slots between cylinders 1-2 and 3-4.....
Have to rebuild my FiST very soon since I have suffered piston problem. Would like to ask why not you dont rebuild the whole engine on the floor and put the whole engine into the car
I would have personally but a stupid warrenty procedure wanted certain things testing and checking before so I had to do it this way round 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM for the short block with the oil pump installed, how can you put it back to join with the gearbox ? How heavy is the short block ? Thanks
The engine built with head on is very heavy, youd need a engine hoist to lift it in, the short block itself with the sump etc on isnt that heavy, just abit heavier than what the gearbox would weigh id guess, to put them back together assuming youve done it this way and not just removed it complete with gearbox is to align the engine with the gearbox and wiggle it together then put the gearbox bolts in once its inline
No angle Gauge??
Is the conrod bolts strefch bolts?
I wouldnt be able to say im afraid, whenever something was wrong with the block ford would say throw it away and replace it
Why did the head gasket blow anyway?
Neglect, and overheating damage caused by coolant loss👍
Men I forgot to add that gasket maker on the cam frase housing and now I have a huge oil leak 😡🤬🤬
😭😭😭😭
Brilliant video, exactly what I was looking for, for this engine. Do you think it's easy enough for someone knew who hasn't built/replaced an engine before? I'm looking into just replacing the bottom end. Thanks!
Thanks for commenting! Erm I find them easy enough , its hard to say for you as I dont know your skill level or temperment! Aha. You can do anything if you put your mind to it, take your time and follow the manufacturers instructions and torque everything youd be fine 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Haha, I'm ok doing anything that's not major to do with the engine, the furthest I've gone is replacing the re-circulation valve! I do want to try something more major, such as the transmission or something! Do you know where I can find the service manual (I think it's called) that has all the specs for the engine when building it, etc? Thanks!
hi jim is the small block repairable or do you need a block from ford cheers
Im sure it is repairable by someone with the skills however ford just make you replace them and dont give you any torque settings for big end bearings , rods, etc
Awesome video. Have you done a lot of head gasket issues on these fiestas ? Do they modify anything to prevent future failures 👍
Thanks! And this is only my second headgasket on a 1.6 ecoboost st engine, and thats only because they were both neglected and didnt have the coolant recall in time also. The recall solves this problem, it changes most of the coolant hoses a new expansion bottle, water by pass valve a new thermostat that opens sooner and a coolant level sensor is installed along with a load of new wiring so after the recall theres nothing to worry about 👍👍👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM what models have this issue mate?
@@DimoS... pre 16 models.
Do the recall mods apply to the 1 ltr Ecoboost as well ?
No, these particular recall mods are so far only on the 1.6 ecoboost gdti or st engines 👍
Why did you do most the rebuild with it montes inside the car?
Whats montes
I have a question since you seem to know your way around st engines. Are they direct injected engines and do I need a oil catch can? Thanks
Hi there, yes they are direct injection engines, and No I wouldnt personally bother with an O.C.C. they are fairly pointless tbh. Most of the fluids it might catch wouldnt end up being oil blow by anyway just a random amount of excess fuel / water mixture. And they can cause other problems so they arnt worth the money. 👍
I know this is an old comment but on my 2.0 ecoboost in my 15 escape I completely bypassed the pcv after I seen the valves and how coked up they were and their was oil all in my intake tubes like at least a half quart it was like honey coating the whole Intake. I took caps and blocked off the intake manifold port and the port on the intake tube after the filter that goes to the valve cover and routed the crank vents to the atmosphere, it's been 30k miles no problems and no more carbon buildup just be sure to route the hoses under your car or when you run the air or heat your vehicle will smell like strong gas fumes trust me my wife about kicked my ass when I routed them into the engine bay.
I believe that using a high quality,fully synthetic oil and a high quality filter will provide better results than a catch can. I also do not run the oil to the factory recommended drain interval. The added cost of this has been paid back with zero mechanical issues and almost zero valve gunk in six years of use and monitoring.
Hi do the 1.5 ecoboost engines have overheating problems
No and they seem to be pretty reliable engines so far 👍
Yes they do. Ford has a new tsb for short block replacement
how much you spent?
Hello I had a question, where did you find all the torque specs ?
Ford
Where can i find all the torque specs for this?
Erm, ford etis, autodata etc.... you might be able to find them on the internet with a google search too
Are rebuilt engines reliable?
Depends on the person who has rebuilt it in all honesty, if youve got someone who takes pride in what they do and rebuilds it properly then theyre as completely reliable as a new engine, if youve got someone who just slaps stuff together without a care in the world then probably not 👍
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I was looking at getting it done from authorised service center in India with all original parts. Planning to get my Ford 1.4 TDCi engine on my Fiesta completely rebuilt. It clocked in 350,000 KMs or close to 190,000 miles before it died.
Why does everyone put assembly oil on engines that are planned to be used almost straight after building them? there's literally no point, assembly oil is only really best if you plan to leave the engine sit for a long time after building it. It won't cause damage but it's a waste of assembly oil, save it for the time you'll really need it :)
It’s still open deck.
I hope you didnt roll the lip on that crankseal lol
No i didnt 🤣 that would have royally annoyed me!
Question.
That dosen't look very profesonal
👌😂