An excellent description of the chain break system. It was one of the hardest assemblies I had to do on my ms 660, because there was not an adaquate description of it available at that time. You might want to check the chain break handle to see if it will clear the muffler before you put the handle on. It is a bitch to grind it after the handle is on. I also put a coating of 1184 on the cylinder before I put the intake boot on the cylinder. I would put some blue locktite on the chain break handle screw because mine vibrated out and I had to replace it.
Thanks about the chain break. I also found out the break is easier to put together with the clutch drum off. I'll check that bolt and make sure it is tight.
Thanks again for the small parts help, my kit direct from Farmertec is not like your none of the little bags describe the parts inside. I finally had some time to devote to the build and finished yesterday. The build had all the usual quagmires, a few missing screws, clips and washers that I ordered from H&L supply (great service).However during fit-up I noticed the piston skirt catching on the bottom of the exhaust port. With the bare piston in the jug you could apply super light pressure to the skirt and it would absolutely not pass the port LOLs, so I reshaped (added a slight curve) the floor of the port and chamfered the bottom edge and all was good. The intake had a slight casting shift (normal) which I blended. And the transfer ports needed a LOT of work to improve airflow. I went to check the piston to squish band with no gasket but the engine would not even rotate so I just installed the gasket as I did not want to go to all the trouble of milling the jugs head profile.On startup it took about 15 pulls and then would not idle well so I turned it off and after checking the impulse line at the back of the carb and seeing it intact.....it occurred to me that I did not have a mental picture of attaching the other end to the jug LOL. Ran pretty good after that other than not shutting off without wiggling the switch and also the idle speed would stick sometimes. Pulled the air cleaner assembly and re-bent the end of the throttle rod and took the ground wire grommet and bent the end upward where it clips in.Now the saw shuts off fine, idles well and has great throttle response and power..... the only problem left is the oil pump is junk so I got one coming from H&L in the mean time I had to oil my bar and chain after each test cut. So when they come then I can run a few tanks of gas through it and see if it continues to run well. Thanks again for the great videos!
Your welcome, I am glad they helped you. My kit was from HL supply and the parts were in Cross bags. Other guys that bought them at the same time had their parts in farmertec bags and I think the screws were not labeled on some of theirs. I was lucky that the only thing missing on mine was the fuel elbow, but then my big end rod bearing failed, so I was unlucky. I've never heard of one with the piston hanging on the exhaust like that. Its a good thing you caught it. You can make a base gasket out of a paper bag or whatever to get your desired squish to keep from having to do machine work. Keep an eye on that wrist pin bearing. I've heard they can fail pretty fast. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Good catch on that reversed factory-installed pin. Looked kind of tight sliding the impulse line to Cam. It just looked too close but you got it. Didn't know if impulse line had to slide onto a nipple of some sort. Nicely done.
I would like to thank you for taking the time to show where all the little parts go. I am a retired mechanic with lots of racing and fabrication experience so doing stuff like pressing bearings is a piece of cake. That said I am 62 and half blind :-) so trying to assemble the puzzle of small parts is just annoying. Why the hell those ftards from Chieyghnaah can't pack a simple ass piece of paper with a packing list and assembly diagram or at least post a link to a PDF file, is beyond me....I think they would do a hell of a lot more business if they did.
Thanks! Also thanks for taking the time to comment. i am very glad to hear that my video helped you. Your right, they would be smart to include a link to a pdf or even a cd with one on it. If you search "Stihl MS660 IPL" you should come up with an illustrated parts list for it. By your name I assume you have or had a car with nitrous on it?
Right you are, I had done a lot of racing both cars and motorcycles in my teens. Then around 50 decided to jump back in as the outlaw 10.5 thing was in full bloom. Wound up getting an 82 Monte Carlo with a 523 and a fogger on it. During the time I had it I went from 1 stage of nitrous to 3 and was running low 5s in the 1/8th....slow by todays standards but always in the top of the quick 8 in any OL 10.5 field back in the early 2000s.
Low five's is still fast. I bet it was fun to drive. I like watching small tire racing. At our track they have a class called real street. They run on 10.5 tires, no tube chassis and are limited to one power adder. Then each combo has a minimum weight. Nitrous cars are limited to a .120 jet. There is a foxbody with a SBF and nitrous and he busted a 4.9 with it and the air was not that good Saturday. There is a guy with a chevy ii running n/a and he went at 5.1.
That's similar to how mine was setup. I was originally built for NMCA super modified. You were limited to X pound per cubic inch and number of power adders. Mine was 3350 with the 523 and a conventional (stock valve angles) head and a single stage fogger. Those early days were the best of times, we raced at our local track every Friday night in Outlaw 10.5 it cost 50 to enter and paid $2000.00 to win. There were so many cars, typically 25-35 that they broke the class up into a quick 8 and a second 8 most nights. I usually came in 2-4 in the quick 8 and averaged about 350 a week in winnings which paid for tires, nitrous and fuel for the car and rig.....Those days are long gone, guys now are racing in weekly series for the same 2000.00 with operations that cost 400k and up....I had about 60k total in my stuff by comparison. The cool thing was the track 75 and 80 was about 25 yrs old and was only prepped to about 150 ft out so I could spin the tires at any point down the track on a .040 jet. My car would cross the stripe at about 7200 and 137 but just for grins in qualifying I would ramp in more timing than the track could handle and set the rev limiter at 8800 and cross the stripe sideways...the track owner Bill Wilcom loved that and bumper dragging wheelies and would usually add a hundred to the check for putting on a show. Here is pic of the car from Lemons headers site. www.lemonsheaders.com/customers/gavle.htm
Hello. Great vid! I am putting two of these together right now, and the chainbrake went together realy easy thanks to your video! Only issue so far is the clutchdrums, they are too tight an refuse to slip on the crank. Have to buy a pair of oregon drums probably. Brass bushings in the top cover is a nice touch! The bags where unmarked, so a ipl was useful. Have a FT 56mm and a Tillotson carb on one and a Cross MMWS on the other. Hope to be able to start them this afternoon. Best Regards.
An excellent description of the chain break system. It was one of the hardest assemblies I had to do on my ms 660, because there was not an adaquate description of it available at that time. You might want to check the chain break handle to see if it will clear the muffler before you put the handle on. It is a bitch to grind it after the handle is on. I also put a coating of 1184 on the cylinder before I put the intake boot on the cylinder. I would put some blue locktite on the chain break handle screw because mine vibrated out and I had to replace it.
Thanks about the chain break. I also found out the break is easier to put together with the clutch drum off. I'll check that bolt and make sure it is tight.
Thanks again for the small parts help, my kit direct from Farmertec is not like your none of the little bags describe the parts inside. I finally had some time to devote to the build and finished yesterday. The build had all the usual quagmires, a few missing screws, clips and washers that I ordered from H&L supply (great service).However during fit-up I noticed the piston skirt catching on the bottom of the exhaust port. With the bare piston in the jug you could apply super light pressure to the skirt and it would absolutely not pass the port LOLs, so I reshaped (added a slight curve) the floor of the port and chamfered the bottom edge and all was good. The intake had a slight casting shift (normal) which I blended. And the transfer ports needed a LOT of work to improve airflow. I went to check the piston to squish band with no gasket but the engine would not even rotate so I just installed the gasket as I did not want to go to all the trouble of milling the jugs head profile.On startup it took about 15 pulls and then would not idle well so I turned it off and after checking the impulse line at the back of the carb and seeing it intact.....it occurred to me that I did not have a mental picture of attaching the other end to the jug LOL.
Ran pretty good after that other than not shutting off without wiggling the switch and also the idle speed would stick sometimes.
Pulled the air cleaner assembly and re-bent the end of the throttle rod and took the ground wire grommet and bent the end upward where it clips in.Now the saw shuts off fine, idles well and has great throttle response and power..... the only problem left is the oil pump is junk so I got one coming from H&L in the mean time I had to oil my bar and chain after each test cut. So when they come then I can run a few tanks of gas through it and see if it continues to run well.
Thanks again for the great videos!
Your welcome, I am glad they helped you. My kit was from HL supply and the parts were in Cross bags. Other guys that bought them at the same time had their parts in farmertec bags and I think the screws were not labeled on some of theirs. I was lucky that the only thing missing on mine was the fuel elbow, but then my big end rod bearing failed, so I was unlucky.
I've never heard of one with the piston hanging on the exhaust like that. Its a good thing you caught it. You can make a base gasket out of a paper bag or whatever to get your desired squish to keep from having to do machine work.
Keep an eye on that wrist pin bearing. I've heard they can fail pretty fast.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
This will be a very helpful video for guys for years to come. Nice job, thanks for taking the time.....
Thanks!!!
Good catch on that reversed factory-installed pin. Looked kind of tight sliding the impulse line to Cam. It just looked too close but you got it. Didn't know if impulse line had to slide onto a nipple of some sort. Nicely done.
Thanks.Yes the impulse line slides on a nipple on the crankcase. It is a bit tight getting it.
I would like to thank you for taking the time to show where all the little parts go. I am a retired mechanic with lots of racing and fabrication experience so doing stuff like pressing bearings is a piece of cake. That said I am 62 and half blind :-) so trying to assemble the puzzle of small parts is just annoying. Why the hell those ftards from Chieyghnaah can't pack a simple ass piece of paper with a packing list and assembly diagram or at least post a link to a PDF file, is beyond me....I think they would do a hell of a lot more business if they did.
Thanks! Also thanks for taking the time to comment. i am very glad to hear that my video helped you. Your right, they would be smart to include a link to a pdf or even a cd with one on it. If you search "Stihl MS660 IPL" you should come up with an illustrated parts list for it. By your name I assume you have or had a car with nitrous on it?
Right you are, I had done a lot of racing both cars and motorcycles in my teens. Then around 50 decided to jump back in as the outlaw 10.5 thing was in full bloom. Wound up getting an 82 Monte Carlo with a 523 and a fogger on it. During the time I had it I went from 1 stage of nitrous to 3 and was running low 5s in the 1/8th....slow by todays standards but always in the top of the quick 8 in any OL 10.5 field back in the early 2000s.
Low five's is still fast. I bet it was fun to drive. I like watching small tire racing. At our track they have a class called real street. They run on 10.5 tires, no tube chassis and are limited to one power adder. Then each combo has a minimum weight. Nitrous cars are limited to a .120 jet. There is a foxbody with a SBF and nitrous and he busted a 4.9 with it and the air was not that good Saturday. There is a guy with a chevy ii running n/a and he went at 5.1.
That's similar to how mine was setup. I was originally built for NMCA super modified. You were limited to X pound per cubic inch and number of power adders. Mine was 3350 with the 523 and a conventional (stock valve angles) head and a single stage fogger. Those early days were the best of times, we raced at our local track every Friday night in Outlaw 10.5 it cost 50 to enter and paid $2000.00 to win. There were so many cars, typically 25-35 that they broke the class up into a quick 8 and a second 8 most nights. I usually came in 2-4 in the quick 8 and averaged about 350 a week in winnings which paid for tires, nitrous and fuel for the car and rig.....Those days are long gone, guys now are racing in weekly series for the same 2000.00 with operations that cost 400k and up....I had about 60k total in my stuff by comparison. The cool thing was the track 75 and 80 was about 25 yrs old and was only prepped to about 150 ft out so I could spin the tires at any point down the track on a .040 jet. My car would cross the stripe at about 7200 and 137 but just for grins in qualifying I would ramp in more timing than the track could handle and set the rev limiter at 8800 and cross the stripe sideways...the track owner Bill Wilcom loved that and bumper dragging wheelies and would usually add a hundred to the check for putting on a show. Here is pic of the car from Lemons headers site.
www.lemonsheaders.com/customers/gavle.htm
That is a nice looking Monte Carlo. Track owners like big wheelies, it helps draw a crowd. Are you talking about 75-80 in Maryland?
Hello.
Great vid! I am putting two of these together right now, and the chainbrake went together realy easy thanks to your video!
Only issue so far is the clutchdrums, they are too tight an refuse to slip on the crank. Have to buy a pair of oregon drums probably. Brass bushings in the top cover is a nice touch! The bags where unmarked, so a ipl was useful.
Have a FT 56mm and a Tillotson carb on one and a Cross MMWS on the other. Hope to be able to start them this afternoon.
Best Regards.
I am glad my videos helped you. I hope your builds work out good for you!
Thank you your videos have contributed to society 😀We appreciate your extended efforts and sharing of knowledge 😄
Your welcome! I appreciate the kind comment!
Har akkurat montert en slik sag!
Tusen takk for flotte filmer som forklarer i detalj, og ikke som mange andre filmer som filmer andre ting.
🔧👍😁
Takk, for de hyggelige ordene!👍
Enjoy the 4th of July and be safe.
You too!!
Thank you sir. I appreciated this video. Cheers
Your welcome.