Motorcycle Brake Pad Options Explained | MC GARAGE
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Organic, semi-metallic, or sintered-which brake pads are right for your motorcycle? We’ll break it down for you in this video from the MC Garage.
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When it comes time to replace your brake pads, you’re going to be faced with a decision. What kind do you get? When it boils down to it, you have three different compounds to choose from: organic, semi-metallic, and sintered pads.
Sintered metal pads are far and away the most common, and they’re what come stock on the majority of modern streetbikes. The term sintered refers to the production process, which uses extreme heat and pressure to fuse a powdered bronze puck to the backing plate. Sintered pads offer strong bite, loads of stopping power, and excellent fade resistance, making them ideal for aggressive street and track riding. Sintered pads tend to be more expensive than semi-metallic or organic pads, but with better performance and longer life, the cost is usually worth it. Sintered pads also require a little heat to perform their best, but even so they offer the best performance and work well in a variety of conditions.
At the other end of the performance spectrum are organic brake pads. Unlike sintered pads, which are entirely metal, organic pads have very minimal metallic content. What little metal organic pads do contain is going to be non-ferrous stuff like copper, tin, or aluminum, and it’s sprinkled in there to improve wear and friction stability. The rest of the puck is a blend of rubber, glass, or aramid fiber mixed with a heat-resistant binding resin.
Organic pads are fairly soft, so they offer a gentler initial bite, lots of feel at the brake lever, they’re really quiet, and they’re exceptionally easy on rotors. They’re easy on your wallet, too, because unlike the organic eggs at the supermarket, organic brake pads are quite inexpensive. However, organic pads have a shorter service life compared to semi-metallic or sintered pads and tend to fade with aggressive use. Organic brake pads are most commonly found on older (pre-1990s) bikes, but you might slot them into the caliper on the back of your sportbike if you want gentler response.
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I followed his advice and I finally grew my own organic brake pads 😂
brake*
What type of fertilizer did you use? I like milorganite myself…it gives you rich black soil and good yield for the pads…lmao
Carbon is organic, he said right. Organic breakpads which basically has some amount of Carbon in them
Ari kills it again. Perfect length video for a quick explanation of pad tech.
Great video again! I just wish you guys would upload more often...
That would be better, more is better in this case! (You normally did once every two weeks right? Otherwise, my bad). Awesome to be having contact with you by the way, I'm a big fan of you and Zack!
At least twice a day :)
Sure, it's too bad their videos are just regurgitation of whatever you would find with a simple Google search you can do yourself. That's not to say it's all bad, it's just not based on any inherent skill or experience of the creators.
definitely!!!
☣droid☣ 1. For me these videos are just fun, I don't even own a bike.
2. Why are you viewing them then?
3. Ari explains things a lot more clear than millions of bike 'experts' on the internet.
as always, I learnt more things in a fast and fun way. thanks guys! greets from Spain, I never miss a MC Garage video :)
Grande maestro✌️✌️
I personally prefer organic pads. You have to change your pads more often, but they have the best feel by far and they never squeak. I pulled the centered pads off my Royal Star and installed organics and man what a difference. They are available for bikes of all size and all years, in spite of what is said in the video. My Royal Star was an 850 pound, 2005 motorcycle.
I have always loved organic pads for better brake modulation. Less initial bite and smoother deceleration. Sweeter in the corners. Need to swap out more often, but they're cheep and don't tear up your expensive rotors.
Imo they fade so fast they become dangerous. A few hard braking in the Twisties and you are brakeless. Scary as hell
Definitely the best place on RUclips to learn about motorcycles.
I nearly always run sintered on the front and organic on the rear, as well as upgrading the brake fluid from 4 to 5.1, and upgrading the lines to braided for a less squishy feel.
going fril 4 to 5.1 isn't always a upgrade.
4 and 5.1 are both glycol based, the only difference is that 5.1 has a higher temperature before it boils. Therefore 5.1 is a lot more tolerant of abuse. I don't see a reason not to upgrade. Besides I am a heavy #'=@]{#' and so my brakes do take a lot of abuse. :)
Biggest upgrade you can make to your bikes performance then is to cut down on your porklife mate, get some exercise lol
lol true, but brake upgrades are not about performance. Three things I never skimp on on any vehicle are brakes, suspension, and tyres. I care less about making a vehicle go than I do about safely stopping it. However, I do laugh to myself when I watch people spend a fortune to lighten their bikes by a few pounds, Lithium battery over lead acid etc.. only to be more than a few pounds over weight themselves.
Performance doesnt just mean: "GO FAST" it could also be: "Braking-Performance". Apart from that your mindset is great, I wish more people would think like you!
This is easily the best motorcycle channel on RUclips
We need a DVD on all your mc garage with more detail. Plus a full servicing guide! Please make it happen ari
worth noting resin/organic pads have fantastic bite from cold, and are a good choice for a commuting bike, where you brake lots but for a small amount of time, so you don't need to worry about keeping heat in them for optimal braking.
you boys must be reading my mind, was looking at pads and wondered the pros and cons of the variations, thanks
2piece 4piston calipers vs 4piston mono block calipers.
moto gp engine prototype
inline 4 Crossplane vs v4 0degree crank , 90degree crank
trellis frame vs aluminum delta box
vyrus m2 honda 600 vs cbr 600rr vs britten v1000 which is the best motorcycle suspension for the future
Ls218 vs s1000rr 2017 carbon are electric bikes better now?
can you please make these videos.
V4 180 degree crank FTW. 0 degree/360 degree = second best. Best V-angle is about 60-65 degrees.
I wanna see stopping distances using the 3 types on a single test bike. Please upload.
I generally run Organics on my two Literbikes; sintered pads seem to wear out my after-market rotors quicker. Yes... you do have to watch Organics as they'll wear a bit faster, but i feel they bite very well in wet or dry. If you're not on the track, these are quite fine.
I know it's not popular but i got myself Organic for the first time I LOVE how they feel.
Thanks Motorcyclist Magazine, another super video! Beacuse being a motorcyclist is more than just watching new bike reviews.
i must have semi-metallic, they are the stock brake pads that came with the bike. people on the forums are saying sintered pads are an upgrade, so that's what i'm doing
So.. Sintered HH is the way to go for a 600cc used for daily fast street riding?
TheSighBored I found on my ZZR12 sintered eg HH pads damage disks quickly on stock and EBC rotors so considering semi sintered. Hard braking when cold might have contributed to the damage
@@martinjames6942 which is why u need to heat it up from bmhard from the start
Hh sintered is like stock or maybe slightly better. Epsa from ebc give more bite and good for street and track day. Go for those.
Simple videos but they just have the info that really isn't out there without some heavy googling. Informative stuff!
Great video! it covers stuff that generally we overlook because lack of knowledge. you mentioned your where fond of vintage motorcycles, thats pretty big right now. it would be great if you posted a video on what to look for and what to check for when purchasing a pre 1982 motorcycle. they are very affordable but can easily be a headache if not inspected property. it would help the Hipster starter kit.
Always found ebc hh pads absolutely superb on the street, a great product for a reasonable price.
Straight forward and clear information, mc grage is a graet spot, keep it up.
It would be great if this video included something like a "Radar chart" for easy understanding of what the different pads weakness/strengths are. Otherwise really informative as always! :)
I've been using EBC motorcycle pads, for over 4 years, for track and street. I recently had an issue with an order for pads, from a 3rd party seller, and called EBC USA to find out if there was a concern. Robert sent replacements, in time for a riding trip. First class performance, and service? I'll be recommending EBC going forward. :)
Man these vids are so good. Very helpful as always.
Great 'to the point' video again from you guys. Your stuff is always factual, to the point and no nonsense.
do a video on wave rotors.. thanks MC Garage
Which ones are hardest on disc wear? Should discs be bead blasted when changing types of pads? Another great video. I love the new magazine format.
Love your work guys, keep these kinda video rolling 👍
Hey ! That's my bike on the poster behind you ! :)
Hi Ari,
Wondering if you guys could do an MC Garage vid on why modern throttles are so darn snatchy / jerky? (Supposedly it's due to ECU maps being optimised for emissions regulations and is not just due to fuel injection). Could you also discuss in the vid whether ECU reflashes are worth it?
Cheers from Australia!
P.S. Your video on the Great Ocean Road was wonderful. And you were brave to put that much vegemite on a single slice of bread.
Yep, the Ninja 300 is actually this way. As soon as you let off the throttle even a fraction that's it...you're at full engine braking. Rolling on is not the smoothest either, but at least there's some degree of modulation.
Same experience on my Honda CB300F (my first road bike). Very annoying as I grew up on a farm riding ag bikes that had no such snatching problems...
Would be good if these emissions regulations could change. It's actually quite dangerous to road newbies like me, especially when dealing with rain and tight turns at intersections in busy cities like Sydney.
For me that roll-on jerkiness is the most dangerous feature of it.
Hmm, I've ridden the CB300F. They're not too bad. Definitely not any worse than the Ninja 300. It helps to slip the clutch for a little longer and to just pull in the clutch when coasting to a stop under like 15 mph. That can help reduce the jerkiness a lot. But I totally agree and I think it can makes things more dangerous for newer riders. I wish they'd stop doing it. On the other hand, my Triumph is very aggressive, but buttery smooth haha!
My G650GS was really snatch too. Makes you miss the old carbed bikes, but my new Sportster is pretty smooth.
Michael Mason heavier flywheel
Interesting video, thanks. Don't often think of the different kinds of pads, I just buy what the dealer has in stock as standard for my RT.
thanks Ari - I like the idea of organic on rear to soften that response a scooch. Will try.
Hey Ari, have you done a video about steering dampers yet? Love MC Garage, keep it up!
I've been needing this explanation. Thanks.
also want to mention that, i perform stoppies better with organic pads. i can feel brake pressure much better. its like carburator vs injection. its great except i have to replace pads every 5-6 months(4-5k km). sintered pads can easily go past 2 years (20k km)
I want more initial bite for every day leisurely riding on my Yamaha royal star venture. It has unknown front brake pads now when I bought it used. It takes a lot of lever pressure to slow this down. Probably weighs about 750 to 850 pounds. So I want more right now bite at speeds that I am not spraining the speed limit.
At the same time, I am a sport bike Rider Ex Road racer.. I just do not use a lot of back brake.. but whatever brake pads are on my Venture, they have too much bite. I squeeze and squeeze the front brake lever to slow down especially if I’m going downhill, so I am forced to use the back break for some extra horsepower, and those back brakes really bite with very little touch on the brake pedal. they bite so hard in the rear that I’m actually a little concerned that I could get into a skid in a panic stop situation ..I’m glad I watched this video about putting organic pads in the rear to have less initial bite..Are used to put air in my rear brake on my TZ 250 for the same reason
Fantastic video. I always enjoy your good communication regarding specs.
I enjoy all of your quality video's along with the knowledge you have.All well done and helpful,keep up the good work and remember to ride safe.
what about ceramic?
edit: wait till end
At 3:45
I'm running metallic right now. I'm interested in extreme cold weather performance. Will ceramic pads offer any improvement in cold weather? From what I hear ceramic pads work better when warmed up.
awesome video as always. Learning a lot from MC Garage. I was wondering if you could do a video on new engine break in and what's the proper way of doing it. Thanks..
I’m really curious if the brake pads affect the longevity of the discs? I see people often saying better performing brake pads are a recipe to get your disc damaged faster. Any truth in this?
I wonder : how can someone dislike this video???? I think they are some dysfunctional people 😉
The rear Brembo on my Tiger 850 squeals like hell with the stock sintered pads. Triumph couldn't do anything about it, so I'm resorting to EBC organic pads.
Semi metallics can usually be had for the same price as organics in common sizes, just got a full set uf semi's on my f4I for $18 vs $50 for ebc HH
Changed my brake pads last month only 🙂
Could you please create more episode about rubber brake line and braided brake line? Thank you very much.
Love the depth you talk about. Thanks for the videos!!
Cheers for the video. Suggestion for another video - mono-shock vs dual-shocks.
Perfect timing on this video. I need to do my brake pads soon.
Please make a detailed video on different types of spark plugs
why isnt this guy making any more vids on this channel plz bring him back
make a video on brake calipers and difference between single souble and triple pot caliper
My mechanic told me that sinther ar going to wear my break disc more and i should go with organic
can you do a video for master cylinder selection, and which master cylinder will work for which bike
nice video! Now I know more about those pads I put on the calipers
please do a video on brake clutch lag and stiffness of brake
Ari could you make a video on sparkplug comparison
If only this was uploaded yesterday
unfortunately theres no aftermarket for my hypermotard so i have the choice of one, Galfer HH Sintered Full-Metallic Ceramic brake pads are the only thing i can even find for it which sucks because ive always enjoyed upgrading parts and changing gears on my bikes
ebc are the only brakes I buy. British made so built to last rather than other cheaper brands. Can't put a price on stopping power
initial bite for ebc sintered pad on my ktm rc250 is the best
TRW Lucas was recommended to me by IOM TT road racers I got chatting to. They make quality disks for bikes and cars and a range of pads.. you can check parts using their online parts catalogue.
Brilliantly explained great video. Well done lads 👌
something about 2 strokes? like differences between 2t oils like mineral and synthetic.
or difference between 2t and 4t engine
Hi...would you please explain us the difference between hard break in and soft break in and also which one is preferable..it would be very helpful
Another great video as always. I really appreciate you guys!
I use carbon fibre. No warm up thanks to its asbestos like structure. Very good as a canyon carver.
do a video about quick shifter..
how to change the brake pad. plz upload it. it will be very helpful.
@motorcyclist magazine, can you tell us something about motorcycle brake disc? Why are they so expensive and what makes the difference in price? Also, why they have holes in them? compared to brake disc's from cars?
As always, great video and explanation guys!
I need those cage free pads! 😆
Thank you for the clear explanation.
Great breakdown. Thanks!
What I would like to know is why are there front and rear brake pads? Are they different materials because if its the shape why not just spin and rear set around to be a front set? They must differ. I'm thinking.
hi, upgrading from organic pads to sintered pads, do i also need to upgrade to a better disc plate/rotor?
Ari Henning cool, thanks for replying :) and your videos are really interesting and informative, thank you!
Great video and very informative. Thanks!!
Get the same pads your bike came with. If you change compounds it can be a real pain in the ass when the compound that has already been baked into your rotor conflicts with the new pads, and you end up with uneven deposition and jerky brake feel.
If you change pads, change rotors.
Great explanation. Thank you.
1:50 he had way too much fun with this
Glad I bought semi metallic....🙂 For my z1000
I love these kinds of videos. Keep it up
Hallo, can you explain the meaning about the size from any kind of master cylinder braking system? Such as 1/2, 11, 14 etc
Thank you for your explanations, and I hope you can make a video to explain it
ARI!
another video could be comparison between cast aluminion wheels vs steel laced wheels... or different diameters :D
what about disc wear with all these pads and how often should brake discs be replaced?
Thanks for the great video!
I'm going to fit sinterd pads on the front brakes of my 1981 cb 900F.
some people say that my discs wil wear faster with those pads than with organic pads.
I can imagine so, but what are your experience's with sinterd pads on (old) discs when it comes to wear?
Thanks again for the video, greetings from Holland.
next vid:traditional vs linked vs abs!!! yes yes yes
love these videos. keep up the good work!
nice video, even if a bit old, but it's missing the fact that some pad type eat up rotors like crazy. I prefer to change the pads 10 times than one rotor.
U guys just read online and copy paste what everyone else says. Just because it rubs rotors more does NOT mean it chews through them. There's guys talk about running sintered for 30-40,000 km without any rotor change. It's a myth.
@@philmcclenaghan7056 my experience tells me this:
sintered pads chew rotors!
Same bike, same rotor brand, different pads, sintered always chewed harder and you can't use that much stopping force most of the time due to ... zero ABS.
What does the HH mean on brake pad designation.
Question - Break pads for ABS and Non-ABS version of same bike will be same or different?
What about dual carbon brakes? And why can't I use racing brakes on the street?
Is there going to be video about types of chains and sprockets?
how can I tell my chain is not tight enough and some insight on when it needs to be replaced...?
Let me give you an example: On most standard motorcycles roughly 0.8 - 1.2 inches is the norm for chain tension. When your chain is really worn out or kinked out you will not be able to get the chain in spec. One part of the chain might be like extremely tight like a 1/4 inch and the other part of the chain might have 2 inches of slack. Also, if your chain is needing very frequent adjustments to stay in spec then it's probably nearing the end of it's life.
MotoBoy thank you! I got my first ever motorbike few weeks ago (ninja 250) and feel like my chain is not tight enough because the bike tends to jump a bit when on/off the gas. It appears tight when looking at it, but sure enough I need to take more methodical approach.
@czierwo: Could also be the damper inside the rear hub, if they are old and crushed and worn too much, they can allow the sprocket to have too much free play and 'jump' like that.
@Ari: Pros & cons of changing ratios, also of different sprocket & chain types, 'X' & 'O' ring etc, and how they work together as a system, what not to do when changing, upgrading, etc..
EBC double H pads are the best pads.
I use the Ebc Extreme pro awesome pads
Thanks for the information.
awesome work man.. I love your videos..