When I was in the USAF, we had a "Clean Burn" oil heater in our shop. Loved that thing. I always wanted to build one of my own for all the used oil I have. Thanks for sharing.
Clean Burn heaters are made in Leola, Pa, and I worked there, and helped to make the preheating block for the oil. Incidentally, they had three rows of three outside, for two purposes. 1) to test the heaters long term, and, 2), to burn off excess oil. Their heaters are EPA approved for burning oil.
I build a simular burner 30 years ago. Headed a 2,000 sq ft area real good, but the shop burned down one cold day. I started a fire, I had a 20 gal used oil drum overhead to feed the burner with. The weather was very cold, abould 30 degrees in the shop. I started the fire and then unexpeakly had to leave. The oil was cold went I started it and the valve was turned up enough to started the burning. After I left, the oil warmed up enough to start runing at a flow faster than it was burning. Oil overflowed on to the concrete floor and must have started burning and all hell happen. I now realize I show have build a pan around the bottom of the stove than would have held 20 gal of oil. Out side of that, the stove worked very well.
@@johndowe7003 no, you know how it goes. You look at one video they start sending all of them. Just random ones sent a while back. A few were very simple. The air holes just stay low in the pan so flames snuff out before overflow. One guy used 90° pipe fittings arranged around the base to get a swirl going and low enough to cover fittings if flow of oil freaks out
In the Army, we had field mess kit barrel cleaners, RAPID boiling water with a drip feed of kerosene. The burner, water tight was lowered into the HEAVY DUTY GALVY barrel of water, a can of fuel having a valve to control kerosene drip was strapped on and combustion was begun with a piece of lighted paper. The tube from the fuel can was about 1/4” dia and there was considerable distance from end of tube to burning ring below water. Consider a small fuel feed as there is less chance of flame working it’s way toward the fuel source. You can probably look these units up online to get the proven design. Good luck. Safety first and foremost. Steve, Plymouth, MA
We used a drip feed diesel stove to keep our tent warm(ish) in Alaska in January 76. It would get the inside of our army issue dual wall tent up to 30 some degrees. It was -50 outside.
Built one in Oklahoma out of a old water heater tank. I had a 18 wheeler so had plenty of used oil. Would heat the shop in the winter. Tank would get cherry red around the bottom half when you turned it up. Not a heater you would want to leave and go to town for parts though. Have to watch the heat and drip !
Lord I thought you were MIA. Thought one of those Apaches got you on the reservation, fixin to call in the cavalry. Glad to see y’all are doing well. Great video, thanks for uploading it. Y’all take care.
For some reason I always get a sad feeling when I see a fire die out.. Lol! That a sweet oil burner ya got there! Looks like it'll do man. Nice to see a video from ya too!
Ok idea to try, use second brake disc mirrored between dog bowl and current setup. Should isolate oil from air better and give you true heated secondary air burn
a friend of mines dad years ago had a small old potbelly stove in the garage with a tank on the wall with old waste oil that gravity fed threw a small brake line that went into a hole he drilled in the stove! he used a type of a petcock valve you turned to control the flow! his son started the stove up and turned valve to much and left the garage and when he came back the stove was glowing red!!! lol
Not enough air and to much oil in the burner. Drip the oil very slowly, about 1 liter or 2 pints per hour. You need the pin valve to regulate the oil flow. Also extend the chimney flue to speed up the airflow. another suggestion is, separate the flue from the burning pot. get rid of the flange and let the flue which have holes in it to be about 2inches about the rim of the burner pot. This needs little experimenting to achieve best burning without any smoke at all. To start the fire I recommend use little diesel mixed with methyl alcohol to heat the burning chamber. This prevents too much smoke and soot sediment in your flue. this method is very good in the winter when even the diesel is hard to start burning. I used the Gas blowtorch to lit this mixture which is much safer than using petrol/benzine. You need to clean the burning pot quite often as the sump oil is very dirty. When I had the heater I used two cast iron pots - one in one out being cleaned. I hope this will help you to achieve the best result.
Either enlarge your secondary air holes or drill more of them. The black smoke is because it is starving for air. you can also reduce the amount of air into the pot which will reduce the flame going into the pipe and clean up the smoke. I had a russian heater which had a sliding door to control the amount of intake air. The pipe had so many holes that it looked more like a fence and it burned very hot and very clean.Also my secondary burn pipe was three times the length of yours. You have way too much primary air with that vented disk which creates too big a flame and your secondary burner can't keep up with it(can't mix enough air with it to create a clean burn).
I have built a stove very similar to this...if you are curious I have a couple videos of it on my channel....and I haven't been able to get it to burn smokeless...but it is hot! Nice work friend.
Hi, how did it work out for you? The reason for smoke is that you need slightly higher temperature inside such that you get secondary combustion. Adding one or two plates horizontal inside would probably do the trick since that would force the flames to spend more time inside the burn chamber. The retained heat in the horizontal plates would cause a secondary combustion resulting in higher yield and no smoke.
Thank you! I did add a few holes back in it but, it looks like the picture in the thumbnail, it cleaned up the burn some. Just as long as you don't add too many or make them too big, it won't lose the suction.
Awesome! Do you think you can burn pellets this way? Ir a combination of oil and maybe pellets? I have had no luck with consistent combustion burning pellets and this design looks amazing with the air being pulled in on a car disk brake. Nothing shy of genius!
It would burn wayyyy dirtier and less efficient if you introduces solid fuels. The whole idea behind waste oil burners is that everything gets burned off during combustion. And without introducing multiple burn chambers you can't get that while burning wood. Check out rocket mass heaters. May be more what you're looking for
You should fill the top side of the air compressor tank with sand so it heats up and radiates heat longer like aa thermal battery. Just seal off that plate you welded in and put the pipe through so sand doesn't fall down. Should hold 40 lbs. Also I'd just use 2 brake discs instead of the dog bowl. Plate off the holes on the bottom disc for the studs from the other side and you have a much thicker base. Weld the 2 together with the offset facing outwards.
Great idea for the sand battery. And the weight, one never knows how heavy things can get. I'm currently seeing a trend of stainless right now and it seems they work well. I assume that it'll just take a little bit longer for the burner to heat up? Could you please explain this "Weld the 2 together with the offset facing outwards."
Can you PLEASE show a how to. I have no clue how to do this, and I really need a cheap way to heat up my ice cold garage without burning it down lol. I'll even take a trip to my local scrap yard to start to collect what I need.
It smokes a lot because it needs more air. Not saying you need a blower, but get mor air (like 3 more 3 inch pipes directed into the burn pot) and it will really roar.👍
I would cut a hole in the bottom of the tank and place just the perfected pipe up through it and let the brake disc vents breathe from the outside and in lieu of the holes that you drilled through the face of the vented disc I would put the holes on the vertical side walls of the hub hat and put a concentric size slice of pipe with offset holes around that to use that for a secondary air intake?
That looks great. Nicely done. And from what I see my question may be pointless, because what I would worry about isn't happening. But I'll ask the question anyway. The thing I would worry about would be the drip source of the oil catching fire and extending up to the holding tank. How does that not happen?
Suction if air into burn chamber. "Cold" air enters the same hole the oil does. THEN it combusts once inside the chamber. Heat rises, so by air flow and thermodynamics, it doesn't allow the flame to exit where the oil enters.
No fumes to speak of. I'm not sure about the air contamination, it burns pretty clean. It was a fun build with old junk I had laying around. Its amazing the heat you get from so little oil.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Yes... I was telling my son about there are many things to get free energy...efficient. Thanks for the Video and the information! . PD: I found a guy running a truck with a wood gasifier.. Its amazing
Pennderosa Farms quick question? You did a hell of a job explaining your setup except for explaining your dog bowl, would you explain if the stainless steel dog bowl sitting below the old air compressor tank, below a hole in the air compressor tank, or sitting in the bottom of the old air compressor tank, with the brake rotor on top of it? Thank you, I await your answer sir!
The dog bowl is sitting at the bottom of the air compressor tank. The brake rotor is sitting on top of the dog bowl and the pipe is sitting on top of the brake rotor. I hope this helps.
No. Beeen running one for twenty years. Just a flex exhaust pipe with a blower and a quarter inch copper line in the pipe dripping on a cast iron pan. Weld fins inside and choke the chimney.
Needs more air to burn and clean up the smoke. A fan to force air into the burn chamber is needed. It's like a car engine that runs too rich - black smoke out the exhaust.
I need a small door at the bottom and the bigger door up so you can bring your stuff out and clean it up but you need deer to rush in there that’s why he put the small door at the bottom and keep the big door closed and if you check out Jerry’s DIY in Ireland he’ll show you another technique that is phenomenal for him and his work amazingly check them out I think you’ll like what you see and you can communicate with Him and he’ll help you in anyway he can that’s the type of person he is so check them out and good luck on your waist oil burner I’m going to follow so I see what you come up with but seriously check Jerry’s DIY and he’s from Ireland
if your not going to use forced air for your combustion you need to make sure your fuel is atomizing or evaporating when it is introduced. Making sure the oil is in excess of 160 degrees will help too. Reroute your oil delivery closer to the flame so the oil is preheated. Lessening the flow of oil will help too so you don't quench or cool the combustion with new, cooler oil. So will some wicking, like a couple of big wads of stainless steel wool where your oil pool is. Stainless steel wool like the kind you use to clean pots and pans.
Yes, the only point is to have a steel that is for high heat applications. Brake drums are better, but gettign harder to find, rotors work as well. So will cast iron. As long as its a meterial that wont absorb oil and can handle the heat it will work.
The air coming where you cut the front of is equalising air pressure which is needed to be sucked up through the bottom. You need to fix a door to the front and seal it off then it should burn and sound more like a rocket.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Try boring the air holes bigger and put it on an 8 inch high 3 leg stand so it will stand on any ground. 8 inches should be high enough for air to come up underneath and 12 mm holes in the centre piece will give more combustion. I love rocket stoves and have watched many other builds. The common factor seems to be air mix and length of flue. You need plenty of air and a chimney/flue that's the right height for the upward vortex to be created to suck the air in the bottom, one feeds the other. Once you get the right intake and exit it will sound like a rocket. It's the same principle as pulse jets. Search Integza Pulse Jet in RUclips.
why not make the design to create a vortex fire instead? i would assume it would be much more efficient at creating heat energy but perhaps it will need to draw more fuel? idk im just thinking
@@pennderosafarms7910 google fire vortex lamps and look at how they are designed in a way to make the small flame inside become a long hotter burning flame (tornado or fire vortex like ) because of how they designed the air inlet to guide the air flow in a swirling pattern inside ,there are two designs i have seen ,the first uses a glass cylinder or in your case can be a metal pipe split in half and the two sides are simply offset from each other creating a swirling air inlet pattern all the way up through the whole burn , the other uses a solid pipe but the bottom air inlet is designed in a way to let the air flow into it like a vortex, im betting that should be the design more suite to adapt on your stove or perhaps the first design is easier with a split pipe instead ,maybe a break rotor with the right curved vanes will do this job ,,, go have a look at these and let me know what you think, maybe you can easily create a small version of these stoves ,i dont think i ever seen such idea ,i just saw the stoves and put two and two together,, just remember to credit me if you ever make one lol so let me know if you need help to find the vid links to these designs
Fire need plenty of air to achieve complete combustion. Any reason why you restricting air flow to the fire via the few small holes you drill through the metal cylinder at the center? Why not design a primary vortex burn with plenty of air then create a 2ndary or even a 3rd hot air burn again before the hot air exit ?
I'm sure that's a good idea. This is the first one I've built and I'm surprised how good it works. The next one I build will have a different design and I'll see what works best.
THERES A GUY HAS A PAGE HERE WHERE HE DOES OIL BURNERS, I THINK THAT IS THE NAME OF IT, OIL BURNER , HE USES A BLOWER AND I THINK HIS BURNS CLEANER, CANT SWEAR TO IT
Check out Jerry’s DIY Ireland he’s been messing around with this for a long long time and maybe some of his ideas will help you out too because he uses him and makes women tons of them good luck and might be an idea to make that hole in the brake disc where your flames are coming up to the tube and a little bigger on the inside cut it out but leave quarter inch all the way around and that will help your your burn burn hotter and won’t have to fake it through that small hole on the disk
probably pointless to say but if you feed it with preheated oil you could get it really roaring and the oil will burn cleaner / that can be done either with nickel wire/ ceramic stand off's / and a battery/ Mabey a potentiometer / or you could get the stove to do it for you with some copper line. kinda like an old Colman stove works. with a few extra steps, you could get it to do the double and triple duty you could power the shed and the house and even work steel with it all at the same time. if got something like that in mind for my place but its gonna take a little more planning because I'm gonna have to make it save enough to run indoors and in a tight space. refractory insolation will come into play. there's a lot to be said for a conservative mindset if you were to bother to refine any of your waste fuel sources you could get away with burning even less. a come up is a come up. free or not. end goal is to stay warm and dry with little or no' out of pocket' big benefit is to get it too do work as well. money stays in your pocket and the ability to stay independent if you don't have one red penny.
Frank Maxfield don’t use something like this for ur house. (Or should I say “in” your house) Insurance will drop you so fast for doing that... Detached shop for sure! BUT! You could definitely make a out door boiler similar to this and run a heat exchanger inside.
The reason for thin is because it is much easier to get to red hot, this system only works if the oil drips on something red hot. A thin metal will also require much much less oil to keep going, easier to throttle down low.
What do you use to capture the sulfur dioxide, carbon monoxide and massive quantities of carbon dioxide ? I cant see this being pheasible in the open lol but definitely a shelter of some kind
When I was in the USAF, we had a "Clean Burn" oil heater in our shop. Loved that thing. I always wanted to build one of my own for all the used oil I have. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for your service. That's pretty cool! Thanks for watching!!
⁰00⁰0
Clean Burn heaters are made in Leola, Pa, and I worked there, and helped to make the preheating block for the oil. Incidentally, they had three rows of three outside, for two purposes. 1) to test the heaters long term, and, 2), to burn off excess oil. Their heaters are EPA approved for burning oil.
I build a simular burner 30 years ago. Headed a 2,000 sq ft area real good, but the shop burned down one cold day. I started a fire, I had a 20 gal used oil drum overhead to feed the burner with. The weather was very cold, abould 30 degrees in the shop. I started the fire and then unexpeakly had to leave. The oil was cold went I started it and the valve was turned up enough to started the burning. After I left, the oil warmed up enough to start runing at a flow faster than it was burning. Oil overflowed on to the concrete floor and must have started burning and all hell happen. I now realize I show have build a pan around the bottom of the stove than would have held 20 gal of oil. Out side of that, the stove worked very well.
Very good information thank you. Sorry for your loss. That is terrible
Seen some that have air holes low in the pan so if an oil overflow happens the rising oil snuffs the flame out
@@plap. you got a link?
@@johndowe7003 no, you know how it goes. You look at one video they start sending all of them. Just random ones sent a while back. A few were very simple. The air holes just stay low in the pan so flames snuff out before overflow. One guy used 90° pipe fittings arranged around the base to get a swirl going and low enough to cover fittings if flow of oil freaks out
@@plap. I'll post a video of my fire hazard soon 😁
In the Army, we had field mess kit barrel cleaners, RAPID boiling water with a drip feed of kerosene. The burner, water tight was lowered into the HEAVY DUTY GALVY barrel of water, a can of fuel having a valve to control kerosene drip was strapped on and combustion was begun with a piece of lighted paper. The tube from the fuel can was about 1/4” dia and there was considerable distance from end of tube to burning ring below water. Consider a small fuel feed as there is less chance of flame working it’s way toward the fuel source. You can probably look these units up online to get the proven design. Good luck. Safety first and foremost. Steve, Plymouth, MA
If you're still around sir I would greatly appreciate a link to how these things were constructed. This sounds amazing. Thank you.
All us garage dwellers should have a waste oil burner
Yes, if you have the oil they work great.
We used a drip feed diesel stove to keep our tent warm(ish) in Alaska in January 76. It would get the inside of our army issue dual wall tent up to 30 some degrees. It was -50 outside.
Good hearing from you again! If you ever need any scrap metal, you can have any or all this that I have down here. I would like to get rid of it.
That's for the offer, I'll look though it next time.
Built one in Oklahoma out of a old water heater tank. I had a 18 wheeler so had plenty of used oil. Would heat the shop in the winter. Tank would get cherry red around the bottom half when you turned it up. Not a heater you would want to leave and go to town for parts though. Have to watch the heat and drip !
Lord I thought you were MIA. Thought one of those Apaches got you on the reservation, fixin to call in the cavalry. Glad to see y’all are doing well. Great video, thanks for uploading it. Y’all take care.
Thanks!! I've been busy trucking, I just haven't been filming. I hope things are going well for you.
Smart thinking you have, good man. Very cool indeed! Thank you for sharing!!!
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Awesome job man very cool design
The incinerator works well, your work was a complete success,good job !!
Thank you! I hope all is well.
For some reason I always get a sad feeling when I see a fire die out.. Lol! That a sweet oil burner ya got there! Looks like it'll do man. Nice to see a video from ya too!
I think it will workout good for my little shop. Thanks for watching.
Ok idea to try, use second brake disc mirrored between dog bowl and current setup. Should isolate oil from air better and give you true heated secondary air burn
That's a good idea, when I build a new one I'll try some different build designs.
a friend of mines dad years ago had a small old potbelly stove in the garage with a tank on the wall with old waste oil that gravity fed threw a small brake line that went into a hole he drilled in the stove! he used a type of a petcock valve you turned to control the flow! his son started the stove up and turned valve to much and left the garage and when he came back the stove was glowing red!!! lol
I don't doubt that. It something I'm going to keep an eye on.
Cool that you can make that with just a bit of thought and time with a powerarc welder.
Yes, its worked well for us.
Not enough air and to much oil in the burner. Drip the oil very slowly, about 1 liter or 2 pints per hour. You need the pin valve to regulate the oil flow. Also extend the chimney flue to speed up the airflow. another suggestion is, separate the flue from the burning pot. get rid of the flange and let the flue which have holes in it to be about 2inches about the rim of the burner pot. This needs little experimenting to achieve best burning without any smoke at all. To start the fire I recommend use little diesel mixed with methyl alcohol to heat the burning chamber. This prevents too much smoke and soot sediment in your flue. this method is very good in the winter when even the diesel is hard to start burning. I used the Gas blowtorch to lit this mixture which is much safer than using petrol/benzine. You need to clean the burning pot quite often as the sump oil is very dirty. When I had the heater I used two cast iron pots - one in one out being cleaned. I hope this will help you to achieve the best result.
You are right, it was very over fueled at the time. I made a part 2 to this video, it works much better. Thanks for watching.
Mabey a 3 inch air intake in the bottom?
Either enlarge your secondary air holes or drill more of them. The black smoke is because it is starving for air. you can also reduce the amount of air into the pot which will reduce the flame going into the pipe and clean up the smoke. I had a russian heater which had a sliding door to control the amount of intake air. The pipe had so many holes that it looked more like a fence and it burned very hot and very clean.Also my secondary burn pipe was three times the length of yours. You have way too much primary air with that vented disk which creates too big a flame and your secondary burner can't keep up with it(can't mix enough air with it to create a clean burn).
Thanks for the feedback, I'll try it out.
The hole in the top of the brake disk needs to be sam size as the pipe over it.
That lady have a beautiful smile. A great pleasure when a lady walks towards you with such a smile.
How bout a (small) air blower or fan will help burn all the oil ? I like the way u bolt it. GREAT VIDEO
Thanks! I might try that out. I just wanted to make it simple and not listen to fan noise.
A good video !!!
Would like to try that myself !
I have built a stove very similar to this...if you are curious I have a couple videos of it on my channel....and I haven't been able to get it to burn smokeless...but it is hot! Nice work friend.
You did great video bro, thanks for your help 😊
I like this setup👍But it only needs one 75mm hole with a piece of sheet metal over it to regulate air flow. This will clean up the burn
Hi, how did it work out for you? The reason for smoke is that you need slightly higher temperature inside such that you get secondary combustion. Adding one or two plates horizontal inside would probably do the trick since that would force the flames to spend more time inside the burn chamber. The retained heat in the horizontal plates would cause a secondary combustion resulting in higher yield and no smoke.
I hadn't thought about the plates, when I build another one I'll be sure to add that in.
Bass needle valve works great for regulation oil flow.
I appreciate simple, nice job.
Brilliant!!! Using a disc brake
Thank you!!
Thinking about building one so I can heat up a room during the cold if my light goes out
Good work. Question. If you burn 20 - 50 weight oil. Does it burn hotter than if you burned 5-20 oil? Does the 20- 50 oil last longer?
It will work much better with a solid pipe like the one in your second video, haha already watched it,, works great. Thanks for the tip nice job.
Thank you! I did add a few holes back in it but, it looks like the picture in the thumbnail, it cleaned up the burn some. Just as long as you don't add too many or make them too big, it won't lose the suction.
Awesome! Do you think you can burn pellets this way? Ir a combination of oil and maybe pellets? I have had no luck with consistent combustion burning pellets and this design looks amazing with the air being pulled in on a car disk brake. Nothing shy of genius!
It would burn wayyyy dirtier and less efficient if you introduces solid fuels. The whole idea behind waste oil burners is that everything gets burned off during combustion. And without introducing multiple burn chambers you can't get that while burning wood. Check out rocket mass heaters. May be more what you're looking for
Thank you!! I know it would burn but, the problem is feeding them in. It probably be good in a wood stove.
this is a cool idea and u can also burn used vegetable oil and shortening so ive learned
Dogs looking for his food bowl.
I bought him a new one.
if he gets to close to the burner ,he goes WOOF
😂
I have one very similar and when I used a 3 meter high chimney there was no smoke.
I have it hooked up to the chimney and it works much better.
You should fill the top side of the air compressor tank with sand so it heats up and radiates heat longer like aa thermal battery. Just seal off that plate you welded in and put the pipe through so sand doesn't fall down. Should hold 40 lbs. Also I'd just use 2 brake discs instead of the dog bowl. Plate off the holes on the bottom disc for the studs from the other side and you have a much thicker base. Weld the 2 together with the offset facing outwards.
Great idea for the sand battery. And the weight, one never knows how heavy things can get. I'm currently seeing a trend of stainless right now and it seems they work well. I assume that it'll just take a little bit longer for the burner to heat up? Could you please explain this "Weld the 2 together with the offset facing outwards."
What about water instead. So you can use it for in floor heating
You need to add a blower to it and it will burn hotter and cleaner. Great job building it Sir
Great Job !!!
Thank you!
Awesome idea
That's awesome!!! 100% EPA approved!!!
Thanks! I'll make a updated video with the drip feed hooked up. I drilled a few more air holes, it has very little smoke now.
Can you PLEASE show a how to. I have no clue how to do this, and I really need a cheap way to heat up my ice cold garage without burning it down lol. I'll even take a trip to my local scrap yard to start to collect what I need.
Sure. I'll do a follow-up video.
Thank you!!!
You mentioned putting a door on the stove. Wouldn't you be cutting off your air flow or where would the air get in?
Yes, I tried it and it didn't work.
Any way to get heat is awesome. I know of a potter who used waste oil to fire her kiln. She had a drip feed. Does the exhaust smell?
No, not really. My flue is pretty high but, I never notice it.
Sonis there a pan underneath where the oil sits?
Sit it in a tight circle of fire brick to radiate the heat more and a small fan to move heat
That works pretty good the way you got it but if you add a door with a damper to draw the air in that thing will rip
I tried that but, it seemed it to block off too much air that it needs to run red hot. It's all trial and error, that's the fun part.
It smokes a lot because it needs more air. Not saying you need a blower, but get mor air (like 3 more 3 inch pipes directed into the burn pot) and it will really roar.👍
Thanks for the help, it's a work in progress. I made a 2nd video about it when its hooked up to the chimney, works much better.
looks like the warp drive on the enterprise
Same principle too except instead of oil, its anti-matter.
@@codelicious6590 haaa no get serious its completely different
You're right, it does look that way.
Big hello to your boss.🇦🇺
Hello back!
For a slower drip, you could put a coffee filter in the funnel.
I've got it setup pretty good now, I made a part 2 video. Thanks for watching.
I would cut a hole in the bottom of the tank and place just the perfected pipe up through it and let the brake disc vents breathe from the outside and in lieu of the holes that you drilled through the face of the vented disc I would put the holes on the vertical side walls of the hub hat and put a concentric size slice of pipe with offset holes around that to use that for a secondary air intake?
That's a good idea. I think I'm going to build another one and try some different build designs. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried waste cooking oil in this and if so how did it work?
From what I understand, is you can use any kind of oil, as long as its oil...
Yes, I've burned motor oil, diesel, vegetable oil and peanut oil and they burn great.
is there any smell of oil when it burns?
That looks great. Nicely done. And from what I see my question may be pointless, because what I would worry about isn't happening. But I'll ask the question anyway. The thing I would worry about would be the drip source of the oil catching fire and extending up to the holding tank. How does that not happen?
I suspect it is because of the lack of oxygen and heat.
I wouldn't worry about it, no oxygen and the flame wants to go up and out.
Suction if air into burn chamber. "Cold" air enters the same hole the oil does. THEN it combusts once inside the chamber. Heat rises, so by air flow and thermodynamics, it doesn't allow the flame to exit where the oil enters.
Maybe make 3 flat metal disc connected and use that to control air also.
Did you start a regular old fire in the bottom before adding oil?
No, the best thing to do is add a shot of kerosene or diesel to get it burning.
Curious how much oil per hour or day ?
I think I'm going to make one of these...I have all the raw materials, even the used oil!
Go for it, mine works great!
@@pennderosafarms7910 What are you using, just used engine oil?
@@EverydayProjects engine oil, diesel, vegetable oil and peanut oil it all burns good.
It’s burning rich needs more oxygen that’s why it’s smoking so much. Good luck
Yes, way too much oil. I made a part 2 with it hooked up, it does much better.
If its smoking put more holes in the vertical pipe. It doesn't matter if there is surplus oil in the pot.
looks amazing... but what about the fumes. Air contamination. Just asking cause looks like a great idea
No fumes to speak of. I'm not sure about the air contamination, it burns pretty clean. It was a fun build with old junk I had laying around. Its amazing the heat you get from so little oil.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Yes... I was telling my son about there are many things to get free energy...efficient. Thanks for the Video and the information! . PD: I found a guy running a truck with a wood gasifier.. Its amazing
Pennderosa Farms quick question? You did a hell of a job explaining your setup except for explaining your dog bowl, would you explain if the stainless steel dog bowl sitting below the old air compressor tank, below a hole in the air compressor tank, or sitting in the bottom of the old air compressor tank, with the brake rotor on top of it? Thank you, I await your answer sir!
The dog bowl is sitting at the bottom of the air compressor tank. The brake rotor is sitting on top of the dog bowl and the pipe is sitting on top of the brake rotor. I hope this helps.
No. Beeen running one for twenty years. Just a flex exhaust pipe with a blower and a quarter inch copper line in the pipe dripping on a cast iron pan. Weld fins inside and choke the chimney.
Needs more air to burn and clean up the smoke. A fan to force air into the burn chamber is needed. It's like a car engine that runs too rich - black smoke out the exhaust.
A heat exchanger could be of benefit, too.
That's a good idea!
Feed tube is to close if it heats up along the tube could ignite in the tuben
That's true it you let it run dry but, it stays cool to the touch as long it has oil flowing.
Fine looking lot lizard you have.
Show some respect
Haha! Thanks. Times are good around the poor farm.
Your burn bowl is right below that brake drum is it inside the tank or underneath the tank? I'm asking to try to figure out how to set up mine.
The burn bowling is inside of the tank, the break disc just sits on top of it. Thanks for watching!
Thank you kindly for the response, much appreciated...
You're welcome.
I need a small door at the bottom and the bigger door up so you can bring your stuff out and clean it up but you need deer to rush in there that’s why he put the small door at the bottom and keep the big door closed and if you check out Jerry’s DIY in Ireland he’ll show you another technique that is phenomenal for him and his work amazingly check them out I think you’ll like what you see and you can communicate with Him and he’ll help you in anyway he can that’s the type of person he is so check them out and good luck on your waist oil burner I’m going to follow so I see what you come up with but seriously check Jerry’s DIY and he’s from Ireland
Is the dog looking for his food pan ?? :)
I bought the guy a new one😁
Weld a piece of angle iron about the hole angle it downwards the drip the oil on to the angle to keep the oil from burning up the oil feed tube
That's a good idea!
if your not going to use forced air for your combustion you need to make sure your fuel is atomizing or evaporating when it is introduced. Making sure the oil is in excess of 160 degrees will help too. Reroute your oil delivery closer to the flame so the oil is preheated. Lessening the flow of oil will help too so you don't quench or cool the combustion with new, cooler oil. So will some wicking, like a couple of big wads of stainless steel wool where your oil pool is. Stainless steel wool like the kind you use to clean pots and pans.
That steel wool is a good idea, I'm going to try that.
Carbon felt would also be a good wick
@@pennderosafarms7910lava rocks might be of some help as they are porous, and might draw oil upwards as it is burned.
Is there a reason everyone uses a brake rotor.. would a thick steel plate work the same
I'm sure it would work. Its probably because everyone has them laying around. They also are vented and able to pull some air in.
Yes, the only point is to have a steel that is for high heat applications. Brake drums are better, but gettign harder to find, rotors work as well. So will cast iron. As long as its a meterial that wont absorb oil and can handle the heat it will work.
The air coming where you cut the front of is equalising air pressure which is needed to be sucked up through the bottom. You need to fix a door to the front and seal it off then it should burn and sound more like a rocket.
I tried that but, it seemed to block too much air.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Try boring the air holes bigger and put it on an 8 inch high 3 leg stand so it will stand on any ground. 8 inches should be high enough for air to come up underneath and 12 mm holes in the centre piece will give more combustion. I love rocket stoves and have watched many other builds. The common factor seems to be air mix and length of flue. You need plenty of air and a chimney/flue that's the right height for the upward vortex to be created to suck the air in the bottom, one feeds the other. Once you get the right intake and exit it will sound like a rocket. It's the same principle as pulse jets. Search Integza Pulse Jet in RUclips.
@@paulmlally1 When I build another one that's how I'm going to do it. A hole in the bottom and force the air up. Thanks for watching!
Get the door done and you will create a vortex. That will quadruple your heat . Especially if you meter the fuel to a drip.
I tried that but, it seemed to block too much air.
why not make the design to create a vortex fire instead? i would assume it would be much more efficient at creating heat energy but perhaps it will need to draw more fuel? idk im just thinking
That a good idea. When I build another one, I'll try some different build ideas.
@@pennderosafarms7910 google fire vortex lamps and look at how they are designed in a way to make the small flame inside become a long hotter burning flame (tornado or fire vortex like ) because of how they designed the air inlet to guide the air flow in a swirling pattern inside ,there are two designs i have seen ,the first uses a glass cylinder or in your case can be a metal pipe split in half and the two sides are simply offset from each other creating a swirling air inlet pattern all the way up through the whole burn , the other uses a solid pipe but the bottom air inlet is designed in a way to let the air flow into it like a vortex, im betting that should be the design more suite to adapt on your stove or perhaps the first design is easier with a split pipe instead ,maybe a break rotor with the right curved vanes will do this job ,,, go have a look at these and let me know what you think, maybe you can easily create a small version of these stoves ,i dont think i ever seen such idea ,i just saw the stoves and put two and two together,, just remember to credit me if you ever make one lol so let me know if you need help to find the vid links to these designs
We couldn't get a good enough burn from used oil had to mix 50/50 with diesel fuel
Not sure why. I tried some diesel with mine and burned great.
Draw the air from bottom up through center make sure everything else seals tight will give you the jet engine once you close the door
Bc hi
That would probably work. I tried to put a vented door on but, it blocked too much air.
Catahula or one like mine thats Heinz 57 type mutt that lools like a catahula?
She is a Mountain curr.
I'm in . going to build this. Will it burn diesel if out of waste oil?
Yes, it will burn anything. I burned some old peanut oil I had from a Thanksgiving Turkey and it burned just as hot as engine oil.
fan intake will reduce smoke
Fire need plenty of air to achieve complete combustion. Any reason why you restricting air flow to the fire via the few small holes you drill through the metal cylinder at the center? Why not design a primary vortex burn with plenty of air then create a 2ndary or even a 3rd hot air burn again before the hot air exit ?
I'm sure that's a good idea. This is the first one I've built and I'm surprised how good it works. The next one I build will have a different design and I'll see what works best.
@@pennderosafarms7910 my respect and my humble encouragement to you to design and build an ultimate stove
@@psyamok3735 Thank you!
Try putting 3/4 inch holes on the sides of that stainless steel pan you have it sitting on, you should get more flame velocity.🤔🤔
Nice job,but lots of the heat is lost.
Try capturing the heat by adding fins etc. To create air movement.
I sure that would help, Thanks!
Best combination is 2 to 3 of water for I drop of oil have a good one.
It's worth a try!
how are you my friend, my name is Ratman, your content is very creative
I'm doing well, thank you very much!
Looks like that would be great to take ice fishing!
That would work!
THERES A GUY HAS A PAGE HERE WHERE HE DOES OIL BURNERS, I THINK THAT IS THE NAME OF IT, OIL BURNER , HE USES A BLOWER AND I THINK HIS BURNS CLEANER, CANT SWEAR TO IT
I've watched his video's. I think you are right, some forced air would clean it up.
Check out Jerry’s DIY Ireland he’s been messing around with this for a long long time and maybe some of his ideas will help you out too because he uses him and makes women tons of them good luck and might be an idea to make that hole in the brake disc where your flames are coming up to the tube and a little bigger on the inside cut it out but leave quarter inch all the way around and that will help your your burn burn hotter and won’t have to fake it through that small hole on the disk
Thanks! I'll check out his channel. I've got it hooked up to the chimney with the drip feed set up, I need to put out a new video.
Jerry's Dow ierland
Did you ever get it to burn clean??
Yes. I made a part 2 when it is all hooked up and running.
probably pointless to say but if you feed it with preheated oil you could get it really roaring and the oil will burn cleaner / that can be done either with nickel wire/ ceramic stand off's / and a battery/ Mabey a potentiometer / or you could get the stove to do it for you with some copper line. kinda like an old Colman stove works.
with a few extra steps, you could get it to do the double and triple duty you could power the shed and the house and even work steel with it all at the same time. if got something like that in mind for my place but its gonna take a little more planning because I'm gonna have to make it save enough to run indoors and in a tight space. refractory insolation will come into play. there's a lot to be said for a conservative mindset if you were to bother to refine any of your waste fuel sources you could get away with burning even less. a come up is a come up. free or not. end goal is to stay warm and dry with little or no' out of pocket' big benefit is to get it too do work as well. money stays in your pocket and the ability to stay independent if you don't have one red penny.
I THINK IF YOU ADD A LITTLE TUBING DROP IN WATER IT WILL BE MORE EFFICIENT
That's something to try, thanks!
Would this be good for hearing your house?
Frank Maxfield don’t use something like this for ur house. (Or should I say “in” your house)
Insurance will drop you so fast for doing that...
Detached shop for sure!
BUT! You could definitely make a out door boiler similar to this and run a heat exchanger inside.
No, just for a shop.
Why the dog bowl? Wouldn't you want that to be the heaviest part? Good job though, I plan to copy this. Great explanations.
The reason for thin is because it is much easier to get to red hot, this system only works if the oil drips on something red hot. A thin metal will also require much much less oil to keep going, easier to throttle down low.
That's right.
Like the said, you want it thin so it will heat up fast. I've had lots of fires and its still with that same bowl. Thanks for watching!
Great project, I like it. But never put again large diameter wheel on small grinder, please...
At least it sounds like it is doing something.
Sucking in that air!!
What waste oil you use sir?
15w-40 from semi trucks.
Buena idea
What do you use to capture the sulfur dioxide, carbon monoxide and massive quantities of carbon dioxide ? I cant see this being pheasible in the open lol but definitely a shelter of some kind
When biting and hairs get in there that thing will be outlawed if not already
Pretty much everything will be. I suspect things will resemble the UK
I hope not!
how do you light it?
Put a small amount of kerosene into the burner and light it. I made a part 2 of this that you might want to check out.
@@pennderosafarms7910 if its the one with no holes and only a slit across the bottom of the pipe yep i saw it,,very nice
Now add a leaf blower to force air.