I suggest adding an intake pipe at the bottom of this heater unit that takes from outside. As it runs now, you are pulling air from inside your shop which is then ejected out of the building through the exhaust. This creates negative air pressure in your shop which means there is cold air entering your shop through gaps, doors, etc. By installing an intake pipe that sucks outside air directly into this heater unit, you will eliminate the cool air draft inside your shop ultimately providing more efficient heat. Then it would make sense to add a door to the bottom to prevent indoor air from entering.
Even with the door gaps sealed you would be using the air in the room you just made warm so a fresh air intake would be the way to go. You could put a damper in the intake to stop cold drafts from coming thru the heater when your not using it.
Thank you for the update video. I always thought the Burn pipe needed holes in it. Yours works great! When I build mine it will be similar to yours. Thanks again...
I've watched a bunch of the oil burner videos and this setup in my opinion is the best. Great video. Only thing that I see that would be much better is to draw the air from the outside, as someone else suggests. You are the first one that I have seen that shows the top of the flue. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir! This is the simplest and and (I think) best design I've seen so far. I will be on the look out for an old water heater tank or air compressor tank for mine. I think I might try taking the exhaust out from lower in the tank so that it traps heat at the top of the stove not sure if it would help or not but only one way to find out! Thanks again!!
Good build but if I had to pick one important bit it would be the chimney. Without a good draft oil won't burn and then you need to use a blower and they are noisy. To get one working like yours is truly a piece of art. Nice job.
I'm wondering how it performs with a door , I have a small engine repair shop and have several 55 gal drums full of waste oil and have been watching multiple videos and your design seems the most efficient by not using any electricity to run a blower , thanks for taking the time to share this information with us and safe travels on the road my friend !
No problem. I'm going to put a door on mine and paint it with some stove paint. I was thinking about taking the piece I cut out of the front and making a door out of it. If you add some vents to it, I think it would work fine.
Back in the 70s we used an old oil can with a brake pipe braised out of the bottom. We crimped it at the other end so the the old engine oil just managed to drip out enough to keep the flame lit in an old cast iron stove pot. It gave out enough heat to keep the two car garage that I worked in warm all day.
Thanks man that works really well , I've tried with needle valve and yes it block's up pain in the butt ,I like your new design will try for sure. Cheers from NZ
You have gotten it figured out. Needle valves are meant for metering, but with used oil, any little chunk that gets through, with plug or at least partially plug a needle valve. For field spraying and fertilizer, we have foam markers to tell where we have been. One machine has a 1/4" ball valve, the other has a needle valve, the soap and water solution can plug either one.. but the needle valve plugs more often.
Has anyone commented that it might be pulling too much air? Doesn’t need much . Maybe put a door over the front opening. Just a thought. Looks like a good job.
I think im going to build upon this! I think if you had the vent pipe running through a tube of water (like an off grid hot tub) you could extract more heat from the system! then you could pipe that holding tank of warm water into the ground in super cold climates and use it to melt snow or heat greenhouses!
Laser bean eyes 👀 would not be happy about this. Great design have you though about isolating the hot portion of the exhaust stack and incorporating a fan to push air across the stock for distribution in your shop?
Careful with the gasoline, I've got a friend that had the bottle blowup in his face when he was pouring gas down a carburetor to get an old truck started. It backfired and ignited the vapor in the bottle. He's now disfigured for life and has had about 40 surgeries.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Isn't your semi a diesel? Use diesel. The fact that you mix oil with the gas helps make it less volatile. I do that myself but it is still dangerous. I've had one, one gallon jug blow up on me. Gets your heart a beating. LOL
It gets a lot of air from the rotor but may lack some catalytic action without the holes. If you get any smell or smoke whatsoever, even the smallest amount then try to spread the air inlet holes a little more evenly. I have not yet seen one single burner that has the most efficient size burn chamber. Yours does seem to work well though, good job.
I truly like your build. I just got a ole water heater yesterday. Two questions. What diameter Pipe are you using from the brake rotor to tank above? Also how large of shop are you heating? Thanks, Great video!
I might try that, it's a work in progress. There are few different styles of these burners. I think I'm going to build 2 or 3 and see which works the best.
I love the simple build of yours. I have built one but I just can't seem to keep from building up a lot of black sute or carbon build up not sure I spelled sure right 🤔 any suggestions.
The valve closest to your tee junction where you see the oil going through.. remove the valve from the body and it’s a cylindrical brass part that slides in and out of the valve body.. remove this and at the edge that is 180 degrees from the valve handle where the opening begins cut a v shaped recess into the brass .. tapering fro large on the inlet side to small on the outlet where it flows into the tee .. will help with regulating inlet oil flow.. just something I learned thought I’d share 👍🏻
very nice efficient design,,the less holes the better,makes it more like a jet engine and burns cleaner,,glad you used no plastic tank because there must be heat transfer up that feed pipe im betting and we dont need no melting fuel tank
Did you have to drill holes in the rotor or how did that go together in the bottom could you show that or tell me how you did it in the very bottom you said you got a dog dish and a rotor but the oil drip pipe likes like it's going right on top of the rotor You're the brakes right
It would appear you do not need the outer shell metal at all except towards the wall or other zones you do not wish to over heat. I would cut away the metal facing the areas where I want the heat to radiate to and what is needed to support the heat exchanger to flue pipe and stand support.
Dog pan break disk same as yours 4 inch pipe on top of disk center disk cut out to pipe no holes in pipe but 4 holes in top of disk as yours . The difference is I am running 4 inch B vent out side ? And the sute or carbon build up is crazy any suggestions thanks
I know this is an old channel but it seems like you’ve made a lot of improvements. What it seems to me is if you had a pressurized tank somehow, with a valve that opened and closed as pressure built and dropped it would spray the fuel aiding in complete combustion.
Great setup you have there. Would a b-vent exhaust pipe work with this setup and not melt the pipe and possibly pose a fire hazard? Thank you in advance.
Could you have just used the threaded intake port instead of cutting a hole in the side of the tank? It should have the threads all the way through to the inside of the tank. Just trying to save some time for you or anybody else making one. Once the garage area is warmed up, you could switch over and use waste fryer grease from restaurants. It would smell like french fries. People would covert VW Rabbits to grease burners or biodiesel/diesel. In this case, they would run a antifreeze hose to heat the preheat the grease to liquidfy it. Not very good in the Pennsylvania winter months though since it would gel up. Cool project though. Looks like something I would make in my garage.
large holes was a mistake, i/8" holes would be better and there is still to much oil dripping in causing flame showing in the flue pipe and causing the smoke, there should be no smoke if the air/oil mix is correct. hope this helps.
What and where is the oil dripping into??? How large, thick, and deep is your burn pan/pot. You don't explain that here. Also how tall is the central convection shaft inside the tank? 12", 16", 32"?? Thanks for answering, I really want to build one of these in the next week or two.
The oil is dripping into a 3/4" hole that I cut into it where the brake pads would be applied. The burn pot is a stainless steel dog pan, it won't matter what size as long as it fits to the brake rotor. I would say the pipe is 2' long. I don't think the size of everything is that critical, I build it to fit the tank I have.
You need to filter the oil first before you burn it so nothing gets plugged up while you burn. That way you won't need to babysit the stove and make it a steady burn and therefore it would be safer to keep it running properly. Also, the reason the other burn tube did n't work for you is the holes are too big and spaced to far apart. You can make one with holes drilled smaller and closer together which creates a blast of air to vaporize the flame and it will roar when burning.
I’m aware this video is over 2 years old but I’m wondering… you mentioned a plate about half way up the tank that the flu goes through. Why? I’m no expert and I’m not criticizing. Just trying to figure out how to make mine go.
Once going and burning at maximum put a magic marker line on top of lower valve straight above upper part of fuel line. When turning valve closed count turns in..if not only 1 turn. Will aid in adjusting on next burn. 👍
So how much oil do you consume per hour? I’ve got a couple of 55gal drums to build a shop stove out of, and a couple more to hold waste oil. Wondering how long 100 gallons of oil will heat my shop.
question sir : would not the radiant heat from the heater heat up the drip pipe it being so close ? would it not be better to have a minor heat shield barrier to protect the fuel system? sorry if you have had this question before i haven't read all comments
i made a similar burner with self wentilating brake disc and brake drum, it heats wery well but ist smoky like hell any ideas why? same like yours gets red hot ony the smoke is bothering me cant be outside the shed when that thing is burning.is that to much air or oil? sory for my bad english... greatings from croatia.
I would try to add some holes in your stand pipe. Make it look like the pipe in my thumbnail. That should bring in some more air and help clean up the burn, just make sure there aren't too many holes and that they are not too big, otherwise you will lose you're suction. You might also need to slow down your feed rate, just a heavy drip. Thanks for watching.
To much oil, increase air, the brake disk may need to have the space between the disks drilled out to allow more air to pass or cut the oil flow but that will mean less heat
@@johngardiner6800 tried that yestrday i welded 4 10 milimeter nuts on drum but now i m not geting wery strong pull of air but i think my chimney is cloged up first i m gona disasemble whole chimney and clean pipes and then try again if nothing works then i m making nozle with compresed air... that has 2 work :D. sory for my bad english :(
@@pennderosafarms7910 Thank you. I noticed the holes welded shut in the video, but couldn’t tell if all of them were welded shut. Are you still using the stainless steel dog bowl on this as you did in your previous video? I’m having trouble finding a bowl large enough for my rotor.
the air is also being drawn in through those holes on the top of your disc and also through the seem where the pipe is supposedly joined to the disc ,i guess you only tack welded and not full welded shut, but yes the less air inlet the bigger the air drawn or suction from the fire and the more efficient the burn like a blow torch sucking in air and mixing with the fuel or inside engine cylinder
In this video it was just sitting on top of the brake rotor. I drilled some holes back in the stand pipe, it seemed to clean up the burn. Just don't make the holes to big or you will lose the suction.
@@pennderosafarms7910 exactly you need to have the right amount of holes or inlet as to keep a good suction and efficient clean burn(stoichiometric) otherwise you either have to little or too much air going in
bravo !!! tu devrais faire des trous percer atour du bol recipiant pour plus air oxygène....tu devrais avoir moins de fumée et radiant plus vif!! tank you
@@pennderosafarms7910 I assume it's like a big washer that fits over the center pipe, down a couple of inches, Does that plate reach the outside to touch the outer shell
I don't think that could happen, all the fire wants to go up and out of the chimney. That's why I say in the video not to walk away from it.
4 года назад
@@pennderosafarms7910 Thank you for the reply. I would be worried that the heat given off would get the drip pipe hot and ignite. But as you say, not to be left alone.
Ahh yes, add more holes. Lean is good. Lean is hotter. Lean is less fuel. To many holes and you lose heat, draft, flow. As an engine guy, I see gas density playing a part.
I was raised in a 4 room house and our only heat in the Pennsylvania winter was a hot plate kerosene living room heater. How quickly people forget.
I suggest adding an intake pipe at the bottom of this heater unit that takes from outside. As it runs now, you are pulling air from inside your shop which is then ejected out of the building through the exhaust. This creates negative air pressure in your shop which means there is cold air entering your shop through gaps, doors, etc. By installing an intake pipe that sucks outside air directly into this heater unit, you will eliminate the cool air draft inside your shop ultimately providing more efficient heat. Then it would make sense to add a door to the bottom to prevent indoor air from entering.
That's a good idea to test out, I'm sure it would be an improvement.
No matter how old the video,much respect to someone who understands volumetric efficiency. You are exactly right in your opinion.
Your idea is good.
BUT... Inside your heated room, must also come fresh air , like ventilation.
@@g.jeu.2187 The door probably would still suck some air in even if sealed well I would assume.
Even with the door gaps sealed you would be using the air in the room you just made warm so a fresh air intake would be the way to go. You could put a damper in the intake to stop cold drafts from coming thru the heater when your not using it.
Thank you for the update video. I always thought the Burn pipe needed holes in it. Yours works great! When I build mine it will be similar to yours.
Thanks again...
I've watched a bunch of the oil burner videos and this setup in my opinion is the best. Great video. Only thing that I see that would be much better is to draw the air from the outside, as someone else suggests. You are the first one that I have seen that shows the top of the flue. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you sir! This is the simplest and and (I think) best design I've seen so far. I will be on the look out for an old water heater tank or air compressor tank for mine. I think I might try taking the exhaust out from lower in the tank so that it traps heat at the top of the stove not sure if it would help or not but only one way to find out! Thanks again!!
Good build but if I had to pick one important bit it would be the chimney. Without a good draft oil won't burn and then you need to use a blower and they are noisy. To get one working like yours is truly a piece of art. Nice job.
I'm wondering how it performs with a door , I have a small engine repair shop and have several 55 gal drums full of waste oil and have been watching multiple videos and your design seems the most efficient by not using any electricity to run a blower , thanks for taking the time to share this information with us and safe travels on the road my friend !
No problem. I'm going to put a door on mine and paint it with some stove paint. I was thinking about taking the piece I cut out of the front and making a door out of it. If you add some vents to it, I think it would work fine.
Back in the 70s we used an old oil can with a brake pipe braised out of the bottom. We crimped it at the other end so the the old engine oil just managed to drip out enough to keep the flame lit in an old cast iron stove pot. It gave out enough heat to keep the two car garage that I worked in warm all day.
Thanks man that works really well , I've tried with needle valve and yes it block's up pain in the butt ,I like your new design will try for sure.
Cheers from NZ
You have gotten it figured out.
Needle valves are meant for metering, but with used oil, any little chunk that gets through, with plug or at least partially plug a needle valve.
For field spraying and fertilizer, we have foam markers to tell where we have been. One machine has a 1/4" ball valve, the other has a needle valve, the soap and water solution can plug either one.. but the needle valve plugs more often.
best one I have seen on youtube so far.
Has anyone commented that it might be pulling too much air? Doesn’t need much . Maybe put a door over the front opening. Just a thought. Looks like a good job.
I've had a lot of people saying to put a door on but, it blocked too much air and wouldn't burn as hot.
I think im going to build upon this! I think if you had the vent pipe running through a tube of water (like an off grid hot tub) you could extract more heat from the system! then you could pipe that holding tank of warm water into the ground in super cold climates and use it to melt snow or heat greenhouses!
Laser bean eyes 👀 would not be happy about this. Great design have you though about isolating the hot portion of the exhaust stack and incorporating a fan to push air across the stock for distribution in your shop?
Good job Johnny! That's really impressive!
Thanks! Maybe we can roast some smores.
Careful with the gasoline, I've got a friend that had the bottle blowup in his face when he was pouring gas down a carburetor to get an old truck started. It backfired and ignited the vapor in the bottle. He's now disfigured for life and has had about 40 surgeries.
I know its a bad idea. Kerosene would be the best way to light it.
Make sure your insurance premiums are up to date
@@pennderosafarms7910
Isn't your semi a diesel?
Use diesel.
The fact that you mix oil with the gas helps make it less volatile.
I do that myself but it is still dangerous.
I've had one, one gallon jug blow up on me. Gets your heart a beating. LOL
You have the true spirit of an engineer.
Haha! Thank you.
It gets a lot of air from the rotor but may lack some catalytic action without the holes. If you get any smell or smoke whatsoever, even the smallest amount then try to spread the air inlet holes a little more evenly. I have not yet seen one single burner that has the most efficient size burn chamber. Yours does seem to work well though, good job.
I truly like your build. I just got a ole water heater yesterday. Two questions. What diameter
Pipe are you using from the brake rotor to tank above? Also how large of shop are you heating? Thanks, Great video!
Excellent design!!! Best and simple to make. I’d like to see how you shut it off at the end of your day. Does the flame try to travel up the oil feed?
Have you thought about welding some thin discs around the top part of the burn chamber than putting a fan behind it? A little forced air system?
I might try that, it's a work in progress. There are few different styles of these burners. I think I'm going to build 2 or 3 and see which works the best.
Awesome we are nearly coming into winter here in melbourne ( shit hole) ill be giving this a go i'm sick of collecting wood.
No thanks to commie Dans lockdown ....
If you have the oil, it will burn all day.
Hi there, great work on the stove, stellar work, well done. Just a question did you cut out the centre of the brake disc? Thanks
I love the simple build of yours. I have built one but I just can't seem to keep from building up a lot of black sute or carbon build up not sure I spelled sure right 🤔 any suggestions.
The valve closest to your tee junction where you see the oil going through.. remove the valve from the body and it’s a cylindrical brass part that slides in and out of the valve body.. remove this and at the edge that is 180 degrees from the valve handle where the opening begins cut a v shaped recess into the brass .. tapering fro large on the inlet side to small on the outlet where it flows into the tee .. will help with regulating inlet oil flow.. just something I learned thought I’d share 👍🏻
I see what you are saying, I think that would help to regulate the flow.
very nice efficient design,,the less holes the better,makes it more like a jet engine and burns cleaner,,glad you used no plastic tank because there must be heat transfer up that feed pipe im betting and we dont need no melting fuel tank
That's what I was thinking about the plastic. I'm surprised how cool the pipe stays with the oil traveling though it.
How long would 1 litre of oil burn for if I may ask? Is it efficient?
Curious if a rotor with directional vanes would help causing a vortex effect
Did you have to drill holes in the rotor or how did that go together in the bottom could you show that or tell me how you did it in the very bottom you said you got a dog dish and a rotor but the oil drip pipe likes like it's going right on top of the rotor You're the brakes right
It would appear you do not need the outer shell metal at all except towards the wall or other zones you do not wish to over heat. I would cut away the metal facing the areas where I want the heat to radiate to and what is needed to support the heat exchanger to flue pipe and stand support.
I've seen them build that way, it might burn better.
You got me with free heat! I need to make one of these with my powerarc welder.
Haha! Build it! The only thing I had to buy was copper pipe and valves.
Dog pan break disk same as yours 4 inch pipe on top of disk center disk cut out to pipe no holes in pipe but 4 holes in top of disk as yours . The difference is I am running 4 inch B vent out side ? And the sute or carbon build up is crazy any suggestions thanks
Where does the oil drip into? Is the hole in the brake rotor all the way through?
I am surprised you're not melting the solder on the lower portion of the oil feed👍
I know this is an old channel but it seems like you’ve made a lot of improvements. What it seems to me is if you had a pressurized tank somehow, with a valve that opened and closed as pressure built and dropped it would spray the fuel aiding in complete combustion.
Flue cover atop to control burn , bricks next to red hot metal on caliper ie longer heat retention.
Great setup you have there. Would a b-vent exhaust pipe work with this setup and not melt the pipe and possibly pose a fire hazard? Thank you in advance.
Could you have just used the threaded intake port instead of cutting a hole in the side of the tank? It should have the threads all the way through to the inside of the tank. Just trying to save some time for you or anybody else making one. Once the garage area is warmed up, you could switch over and use waste fryer grease from restaurants. It would smell like french fries. People would covert VW Rabbits to grease burners or biodiesel/diesel. In this case, they would run a antifreeze hose to heat the preheat the grease to liquidfy it. Not very good in the Pennsylvania winter months though since it would gel up. Cool project though. Looks like something I would make in my garage.
That is a good idea about the threaded pipe and about the vegetable oil. Peanut and vegetable oil burns really good!
large holes was a mistake, i/8" holes would be better and there is still to much oil dripping in causing flame showing in the flue pipe and causing the smoke, there should be no smoke if the air/oil mix is correct. hope this helps.
Okay, Thanks. I drilled some new smaller holes and that helped it.
The brake rotor must give the air a good vortex. Excellent idea.
Hi ; good thing you live far aways from town a lone, I live in town can't burn that neighbor will complain a bout the smelt, good show thank .
is the pot a brake drum
До какой высоты доходит пламя в вертикально стоящей трубе, в момент, когда она максимально прогрета?
Почему так много дыма?
hello one question can i make this to work with radiators for the house
What and where is the oil dripping into??? How large, thick, and deep is your burn pan/pot. You don't explain that here. Also how tall is the central convection shaft inside the tank? 12", 16", 32"?? Thanks for answering, I really want to build one of these in the next week or two.
The oil is dripping into a 3/4" hole that I cut into it where the brake pads would be applied. The burn pot is a stainless steel dog pan, it won't matter what size as long as it fits to the brake rotor. I would say the pipe is 2' long. I don't think the size of everything is that critical, I build it to fit the tank I have.
How Many kw heat does it aproximatley produce?
Is it warm enough to heat a wel insulated 2 floor 20x36ft shop?
Is it necessary to have the separator plate welded in the tank to make it burn correctly?
Pretty impressive heat source! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! That little guy works great.
does the 5inch pipe go all the way from the bottom up? one piece?
Nice built, where you located? Would you be interested in a new build for sale?
Put strong magnets on the bottom of your fuel tank.
To catch metal flake?
Yes just like in a oil or transmission pan
@Macdaddy I would also wrap copper tubing around it to heat water (as heat storage or to hook it up to a radiator)
Looking good concrete cowboy, Merry Christmas to you and your family
Thanks Bruce! Take care buddy.
You need to filter the oil first before you burn it so nothing gets plugged up while you burn. That way you won't need to babysit the stove and make it a steady burn and therefore it would be safer to keep it running properly.
Also, the reason the other burn tube did n't work for you is the holes are too big and spaced to far apart. You can make one with holes drilled smaller and closer together which creates a blast of air to vaporize the flame and it will roar when burning.
That makes life much easier!!
If you get the flow correct, do you know how many quarts / gallons per hour it's using?
How does the thing start? What touches off the ignition?
How many holes and what diameter did you drill in the new standpipe
I’m aware this video is over 2 years old but I’m wondering… you mentioned a plate about half way up the tank that the flu goes through. Why? I’m no expert and I’m not criticizing. Just trying to figure out how to make mine go.
Once going and burning at maximum put a magic marker line on top of lower valve straight above upper part of fuel line. When turning valve closed count turns in..if not only 1 turn. Will aid in adjusting on next burn. 👍
Yes. That's a good idea, thanks!
I wonder if you put another stage on it like they do with mass storage heaters if you would get a cleaner burn and no smoke at all?
I'm not sure, It's something I could try. I've seen lots of different ways people have built these.
Very impressive! Thanks for sharing.
So how much oil do you consume per hour? I’ve got a couple of 55gal drums to build a shop stove out of, and a couple more to hold waste oil. Wondering how long 100 gallons of oil will heat my shop.
100 gal would last a long time. It probably goes through 1 to 2 quarts per hour with a fine stream. Good luck on your stove!
So between 200 and 400 hours or one week to two weeks running 24-7.
Now she's cooking, rocket stove, much better with the solid pipe!
Yes sir!
question sir : would not the radiant heat from the heater heat up the drip pipe it being so close ? would it not be better to have a minor heat shield barrier to protect the fuel system? sorry if you have had this question before i haven't read all comments
Actually having the oil coming down the drip tube getting preheated before it reaches the burn chamber helps it to burn better.
How long will your helium canister full of oil last?
i made a similar burner with self wentilating brake disc and brake drum, it heats wery well but ist smoky like hell any ideas why? same like yours gets red hot ony the smoke is bothering me cant be outside the shed when that thing is burning.is that to much air or oil? sory for my bad english... greatings from croatia.
I would try to add some holes in your stand pipe. Make it look like the pipe in my thumbnail. That should bring in some more air and help clean up the burn, just make sure there aren't too many holes and that they are not too big, otherwise you will lose you're suction. You might also need to slow down your feed rate, just a heavy drip. Thanks for watching.
@@pennderosafarms7910 will try ty for info...
To much oil, increase air, the brake disk may need to have the space between the disks drilled out to allow more air to pass or cut the oil flow but that will mean less heat
@@johngardiner6800 tried that yestrday i welded 4 10 milimeter nuts on drum but now i m not geting wery strong pull of air but i think my chimney is cloged up first i m gona disasemble whole chimney and clean pipes and then try again if nothing works then i m making nozle with compresed air... that has 2 work :D. sory for my bad english :(
Thanks for the video.
My husband need lists of parts and measurements if possible.
Thanks 🙏
I can do that. I've had a lot of questions like this so, I'll probably make another video with all the details. Thanks for watching.
If you can see smoke out the chimney you need a little more air in the mix. A ring of holes at the very bottom of your stand pipe would be fine.
Do the vents around the rotors’ perimeter contribute to combustion air, or are they blocked and it only receives air from the holes you have drilled?
Yes, they add air. I welded the vents shut in front of the drip feed but, the rest of them are open.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Thank you. I noticed the holes welded shut in the video, but couldn’t tell if all of them were welded shut. Are you still using the stainless steel dog bowl on this as you did in your previous video? I’m having trouble finding a bowl large enough for my rotor.
@@BlainesGarage No problem. Yes, I'm still using the same bowl. Try the dollar store, I'm sure that's where my wife bought it.
You should paint the outer tank with black paint to absorbed and release heat much better.
😂
Is it the air sucking in that stops the fire from climbing up the stream of oil?
I think It's taking the path of least resistance, out the chimney.
Looks crude but works pretty well!!!
That thing is rocksteady if you keep the oil flowing.
Could you add copper coil inside to heat some water also?
I think the internal heat would be too intense I'll bet you could do it just fine with a copper coil wrapped around the outside
I'm sure you could as long as the pipes stayed full of water, otherwise they would overheat.
the air is also being drawn in through those holes on the top of your disc and also through the seem where the pipe is supposedly joined to the disc ,i guess you only tack welded and not full welded shut, but yes the less air inlet the bigger the air drawn or suction from the fire and the more efficient the burn like a blow torch sucking in air and mixing with the fuel or inside engine cylinder
In this video it was just sitting on top of the brake rotor. I drilled some holes back in the stand pipe, it seemed to clean up the burn. Just don't make the holes to big or you will lose the suction.
@@pennderosafarms7910 exactly you need to have the right amount of holes or inlet as to keep a good suction and efficient clean burn(stoichiometric) otherwise you either have to little or too much air going in
bravo !!! tu devrais faire des trous percer atour du bol recipiant pour plus air oxygène....tu devrais avoir moins de fumée et radiant plus vif!! tank you
Thanks!!
That plate you mentioned inside at the top of that pipe, Is there a clearance so the exhaust will by pass,
It's a steel plate I welded in with a 5" hole cut in the middle. The pipe is sticking a few inches through the plate. The first video I made shows it.
@@pennderosafarms7910 I assume it's like a big washer that fits over the center pipe, down a couple of inches,
Does that plate reach the outside to touch the outer shell
@@CMAenergy Yes, It's a big washer welded to the outer shell.
@@pennderosafarms7910 thanks. I may now entertain myself in a new venture,
@@CMAenergy Good luck👍
It's great. Do you have a sketch how to build this?
Seems pretty self explanatory....
I could make something with the exact dimensions.
@@pennderosafarms7910 yes, pls. thx in advance :)
What stops the oil in the drip feed catching fire and then to the oil tank?
I don't think that could happen, all the fire wants to go up and out of the chimney. That's why I say in the video not to walk away from it.
@@pennderosafarms7910 Thank you for the reply. I would be worried that the heat given off would get the drip pipe hot and ignite. But as you say, not to be left alone.
a lack of oxygen and heat.
So is the oil dripping into one of the lug nut holes then onto the very bottom
No, it is dripping into a 3/4 hole that I cut into it, where the brake pads would be applied.
But only through one face not all the way cross drilled?
Do you have any buildup in your stove pipe? Didn't know if it has soot buildup or stays clean.
Pipe stays clean, the burn pot needs to be cleaned once a day.
"Why don't you show us how it works?" Admirable womam!
That was my little boy, I was just playing around with him.
whats the idea of a brake disc, and not flat steel
I had it on hand and the vents in it allow it to pull in more air. I'm sure you could use a flat piece of steel.
Have you used a nozzle tip on the burner? Thanks
No, but I'm sure it would be much more efficient. I just don't know much about it.
Ahh yes, add more holes.
Lean is good.
Lean is hotter.
Lean is less fuel.
To many holes and you lose heat, draft, flow.
As an engine guy, I see gas density playing a part.
I used to sell Hooter Waste Oil heaters! Looked like a force air oil furnace.
That's cool! Are they still in business?
Right on works great!
Thank you!!
Doesn't the oil leak out of the holes in center of rotor?
Once it gets hot enough, the oil is vaporized as it enters the burn chamber before it has a chance to collect and overflow
Use a steel "t" instead of a malleable one if your going to weld it.
Yes, that would work better.
I wonder if I could persuade you to post a video using old vegetable oil to see how well it works?
I'll tell that I've burned motor oil, diesel, vegetable oil and peanut oil and they all burn great.
Nice welds! Can you teach me how to make my welds look that good?
I hope that's joke, that thin stuff with a stick welder is hard for me. Thanks for watching!
@@pennderosafarms7910 It is a joke. Clean your material well, heat it up a bit, and adjust the voltage as necessary for proper penetration (hehe).
If you put the copper pipe round the back of the main burner pipe you won't have to disconnect it to clean the pan
That's true. When I build my next one , I'll try some new build designs.
Arent you afraid the oil tube will catch fire itz way to close mounted at that hotspot
What about smell?
No smell. I have a good chimney, it pulls a good draft.
Cant wait to try on smaller scale for winter times
I thought I recognized that voice. It's George Straight.
A non secured fuel line is the breading ground for a nasty fire...
YOu 'fabricators' really need to learn how to weld. Nice rig!
Very cool I want to build one
Thanks! Good luck with your stove.
Good idea
Great Job !!!
Thank you!
That’s awesome