Thank you for all the suggestions, advice and positive feedback on my build. I'm glad you all like it. I'll be doing a video soon on a new burner pot design. Stay tuned! -Jay
@@rustycreekfabrication I've watched plenty of videos of waste oil burners on RUclips and yours suits best suits what I'm trying to achieve. One thing I was thinking of doing is adding a water trap and/or filter but maybe it's not worth it after seeing your raised inlet idea!
@LivingMyBoostLife I had planned that as well, but, figured with a raises inlet off the bottom, it should separate the water fine and so far it has, a quick open of the bottom valve and I'll get a few ounces of water every few months. I may do an oil filter video and see what I get for ash remnants using filtered oil versus non filtered oil.
Great first attempt. Two staggered rows of heat exchanger tubes spread across the width of the fire box would yield greater efficiency. Smaller, more numerous holes in the air feed side of the burn pot will help with a cleaner burn. Try a smaller throttle valve, maybe even a needle valve. Great reuse of old equipment.
Man, you did a fantastic job! I've been consuming every video I can find on waste oil heaters, and yours is by far my favorite. I will say that you would probably benefit from some burn chamber mods, but overall the rest of the build is incredible. Thanks for taking the time to film and share with the world.
@@dbplumbing1403 I plan on lining the sides and possibly the bottom with firebrick and I'm going to figure out some baffles/shield above the pipes, my goal is to concentrate the heat on the pipes more. Ultimately, my goal is to get the same heat with less oil. If these mods prove to get higher Temps, I'll switch to a needle valve so I can give it just barely enough oil to keep it my desired temp. 6 hours from one gallon sounds nice lol
@@dbplumbing1403 not ignorant at all. The radiant heat is great and all but I want hotter air coming out of my heat exchanger. It blows diagonally across my shop and heats more evenly than the radiant in the corner.
Been designing and building my own woodstoves since the 70's and I just might have to build one of these next. This burns as clean as my wood fuel designs. Well done. Subbed 👍😎👌🇺🇸
This is BY FAR the best one I've seen on RUclips. Great job man. I been looking at a bunch of videos to get idea's and i think i have it figured out now, because of your design.
Thanks alot Greg, I appreciate that! I've been trying to do another follow up video for it and address alot of the viewers feedback and suggestions, there's a lot of great feedback from others on here so keep in mind it's not perfect, but it works great and with a few tweaks and mods, this thing could be awesome and heat a much bigger shop!
Good morning and thank you rusty. The most complete video I've seen On this. I have been going to build one just like what you did. Force there for my garage, But I need to add a hot water loop in the heat exchange your tubes to go into my house heating system at the same time. Again thank you for the Is step-by-step.
Very well done on your build, video and quality of work. On the one I made I used 15 feet of stainless steel pipe that feeds my base boards the hot water. With mine I soak a sock or small rag with kerosene to start the fire, that way I only open the door once to light it to reduce smoke intake.
Nice job on the unit. If you put some oil in first and the kerosene on top, you shouldn't have any problem lighting it. Mine starts in a split second, with only a whiff of the torch. I use diesel. Also, if you hold off on starting the blower till it gets going, that will help too.
Absolutely one of the most clear and comprehensive vids that I've watched I will be rewatching this often, as I consider it a textbook presentation! Thank you sir!
Man with you build . You bring it one step closer to being able to have a oil burner heater design. That would not look bad inside a house. I think ideally if as builders. We could make something way better then a pellet stove and way quieter
Thanks! I'd love to heat my house this way but it's a long way from being a good idea. Needs more technology and sophistication. I appreciate the kind words!
Fantastic! If you set an old brake rotor or steel plate on top of the burner pot it will increase the temperature, which will increase the burn efficiency.
Mike thanks for the suggestion, I have thought about a defector of some kind to retain the heat, maybe I'll see if I can make something and try it out!
Nice build! I would imagine the viscosity of the oil might change as the temperature increases. What would happen if you lose electrical power? The reason why I asked this is I know of a man who had a stove in his basement with a fan that circulated the heat. He left for a few days on a business trip only to come home and find only the chimney standing. I know you can purchase these prefab with 100% clean burn using just about every kind of fuel out there however, they are in the thousands and thousands of dollars. Thanks for sending me the link!
Thanks! Yes the oil does thin out as the temp rises and small adjustments need to be made after about 15 minutes but once they are set, it goes all day. As far as power, if power were to be cut, it wouldn't burn as nicely, I think the efficiency would drop and I'd have a smokey fire. I'm currently looking into a solar powered blower that I can run off a battery bank thus making it 100% free energy. For now, I only use it when working in the shop so it will never be left unattended.
Really great build, and you explain your work well. Read a bunch of the comments and no one seems to have mentioned your oil tank. Just a guess, but you may want to move it outside of the room, because as it warms up, the oil will get thinner, and flow more freely. This vid is 2 years old so you may have already dealt with this, but I wanted to mention it. I have an old oil tank I've been giving dirty looks to for awhile, and this is very motivational, thanks!
Thanks for the positive feedback. The oil tank position has worked out great and doesn't get too warm at all. It does warm up slightly but not enough to cause any flow issues.
Thanks for posting this! i was looking into making one for my 1 car garage to burn all my used motor and cooking oil. Just based off the size of your tank, i think i would need about 2 quarts of oil an hour for the size of my man shed. Not sustainable unless i offer to change my friends and family's oil for the fuel lol.
Great build. 👍 you have spent a lot of time researching for your first build! I have made many oil stoves and all different designs. If you put a flame deflector around the burner you can keep an even burn at low flow. But please don't walk away from the stove the oil flow will change with temperatures increase its a drastic change ! The only way to keep the delivery the same is to keep the oil tank the same temp. Be careful! Awesome job! 👌
Great job,I really enjoyed the well presented video. It might be interesting to see if you could add a wet heat exchanger and a pump a small expansion tank and run a couple of radiators off the system.
Thanks Dennis, that's a great idea, I just don't think I'll be needing that much heat. Generally the coldest in my area in New England gets down around 20 degrees for a week or 2 every winter and the shop Temps hover around 55-60 with this on low. Definitely doable for someone else that wants to extract more from the heater though
Great build. You could probably easily double the efficiency if you set up a unit to store some heat. If set up a small drum sealed with oil and exchange some of the heat into the drum ...That drum of oil would stay hot for hours after the boiler is shut off.
You might want to try adding some fire bricks to the bottom of the burner pot. My high school shop teacher built one that way 40 years ago and it made it much easier to light. Overall it looks like it's going to keep you warm! Thank you for the detailed build.🙂 Hmmm make that 43yrs ago! Me old fart yankee
Thank you Mark! That actually is the plan, add fire brick to the bottom and sides along with a deflector above to concentrate the heat in the box. I'll be doing an update vid soon!
Looks like a Lopi wood stove front door, nice. Increase the height of the combustion chamber and inject some air into the flame higher up, high enough where it won't blow out the fire. Injecting air into the yellow flame can make it burn blue which is more efficient and cleaner. Angling the air injection points to cause a swirl helps too. The problem with these kinds of stoves is that oil flow can vary. If there is a bit of sludge in the oil the valve must be opened more. When the room heats up and the sludge clears the metering valve the oil flow goes up which could be a problem if no one is monitoring the fire. As a precaution the oil supply container could be limited to an amount that could not overflow the combustion chamber.
Thanks for the feedback. The door is from an Efel harmony stove. I do plan on a different burner design to get a better burn, most likely out of stainless. As far as oil quality, I strain all oil and adjust feed the feed when the temp gets higher and viscosity changes. I'll post a new over view video soon of the feedback I've gotten and how the burner has been working these last 2 years. Cheers
Thanks man! I might give it a coat of paint someday. I still have yet to do so more mods to the stove so I may have to cut into it, so I haven't done paint yet. I like the door glass too, it's a bit hazy and a local glass company said they can cut me a new piece for like $50 so it will be replaced soon.
nice build. It looks like when you were trying to light it that your blower motor is creating negative suction on your combustion air input because it so close to the blower motor air intake at the back of the stove. You might want to experiment by trying to take a little bit of air out of the output of your blower motor and direct it into the combustion air intake to eliminate this negative pressure and actually make a positive pressure into your combustion air. Positive pressure on your combustion air would also give you a better burn i would think as well. Also I would have put your furnace combustion output toward the back of the box so you could then put a baffle inside your furnace that went from the back of the furnace to almost the front of the furnace under the heat exchanger tubes. This would force the heated gas to go forward after combustion to the front of the stove and then the combustion exhaust air would be forced along the heat exchanger tubes to the back of the furnace to exit out of the exhaust. This would enable you to gather much more heat energy to your exchanger and keep it from going out of your chimney. I would probably still put this baffle in with your current configuration of exhaust pipe exit to try to gain a bit more heat capture.
1st, get a small fixed displacement oil pump and set it up on a timer to regulate the oil flow. Then you don't have to fiddle with the flow rate with different oil weights and Temps. 2nd thing, put a flame sensor switch hooked up to a valve to shut off oil in case of flame out. The other thing I have been toying with is superheated intake air to allow for cleaner combustion at lower flame.
Great build, I have been working on and building cremation equipment and boilers for 25+ years. The only thing I would have done differently is used some 304 stainless to make the burner pot.
Randy I 100% agree, at the time I wanted to fab up a stainless pot but I'd prefer to tig it up and I haven't bought a tig welder yet. Maybe some time in the future I'll get some stainless stock and make one. Thanks for the positive feedback, I appreciate it!
@@rustycreekfabrication actually I think mig would hold up better just because you can put down more material when you weld. Almost anything we weld on a crematory or boiler will be stick or mig. Stick is a fantastic alternative. They have some great rods for stainless now.
@@ranscottb Thanks for the info, I have an old craftsman 220v stick welder that my grandfather left me when he passed, it's one of the older heavy units that I have only used a couple times to fix an old wood stove. I'll have to give it a shot on one of my projects or even a burner pot for this heater. Thanks again!
This has to be the best RUclips video I have seen so far for sure. Look forward to see more from you Sir. The step by step explanation is great. What I am wondering is why the fire is not a blue color ??? Blue color signifies the most efficient burn. Peace VF
The blue flame is made when your using propane or natural gas. The yellow tips on the ends of the blue flame indicates an unclean burn. The jets or pressure should be adjusted to stop the yellow tip from the blue flame so that you do have a cleaner burning flame. That’s why they’re O2 detectors in the houses/building. Hope this helps. Happy Holidays
I love the workmanship, i want to build somethhing similar from 2 barrels and some stove bricks so it also keeps the heat longer but, i think because you crammed those heat exchanger pipes so close together the smoke goes around them instead of through them... maybe a different geometry would have helped
A few windings copper pipe around itself, or the stovepipe , connected to a small tank, and you got yourself a hot water supply for free too. Great video anyway ;)
Great build I'm impressed! Some years ago I built a burner for melting alu and brass. I use a mix of 50 % of diesel and waste oil. It also needs compressed air to work and a fan for better and cleaner burning. I have som videos of it on my channel. Oh and by the way I subbed to your channel, I think you deserve it. 🙂
I wanted to keep the fire in a cylindrical shape which it works ok, more so to keep the fire concentrated in the ring. I may change the design, not sure yet
There's a few easy things you could do to optimize the overall package, but man that thing is cherry! Me being me, I'd find some kind of way to extract your flue heat to turn a generator and have it power itself (and maybe your shop), but that'd burn a bit more oil undoubtedly. Nature of the beast. However if you've stockpiled your gallons, it'd be really sweet to see this thing be self-sufficient!
Thanks Cosplay! That's a cool idea on the generator. I'm looking into getting this thing 100% free to operate by 12 volt blowers that could run off solar alone. Might be in the future. Thanks for the info and feedback!
@@rustycreekfabrication If you want to have a prepatory examination, I'd be willing to bet your blower is putting out a lot more air than is going through your exchange pipes and likely backflowing back into your ducting, in which case, you could plumb a 'bleed valve' -type offshoot into your fresh air intake and really stoke the flames netting a lot more heat. Be a shame just to send it up the chimney though. 😁 I built a small-ish jet engine some years ago that I'm going to repurpose this spring into a sweet forge blower/backup generator but I'd really love to get back into it to see how I can retrofit a waste oil burner setup on it.
For greater efficiency, move more air through the heat exchanger: more tubes (more surface area for heat exchange), more air velocity. The cooler the air is coming out, the more heat you extract. Obviously you want air coming out to be warm enough to feel warm, but a small amount of air heated to screaming hot is nowhere near as useful as a big amount of air that is just a couple of degrees above your desired temperature.
The biggest problem with super efficient heat from oil as a fuel is the condensate from it basically turns into coal and plugs up heat exchangers incredibly fast 💨 so a high exhaust temp will help it be a lot less of a maintenance problem and stay reliable and safe
"The cooler the air is coming out, the more heat you extract." -- obviously a MIN/MAX problem, as cooler air could also indicate poor heat exchange rate... exaggerated down to zero, eg.
In addition to the comment I made re sight glass, I wanted to say I would love to make a smaller version for my 380sq' garage vs your 600sq' shop. Unfortunately, my city is EXTREMELY intrusive and controlling. (We should rename it "Stepford" lol) I'd have to do it "under the radar." :/ Fantastic project! Now I just have to learn how to weld!!!
Thanks Greg! I'll look into the old coffee pots, that's a great idea (plus I love recycling/repurposing old items). I recommend a cheap harbor freight welder if you don't have one and weld.com videos right here on youtube!
You could scavenge a bit more heat from the top 1/3 heat exchange area by adding some plate at angle to force the rise directly between the tubes (from the wall slightly upward to force air path right through the exchange tubes). then a roof plate above the tubes like a slight angle being higher at the tubes and lower at the wall leaving a .5 to .75 inch gap at the wall for the exiting air.. this gives more time and direct contact on the heat exchanger tubes using thermal stratification to your advantage. That should get more energy into the shop and less up the flue. If it becomes a permanent unit you could do a baffle box around the blower side to pick up air from floor and reduce the noise a bit although it was rather quiet for the blowers size. This box could be simple double sheet metal ducting material with fiberglass insulation between and 1-2 plate of baffle. You could even filter the air if you want pulling in air from the corner of wall to reduce noise and keep squirrel cage blades from clogging over time. Other things to consider or try is adding carbon felt (welding blanket) material to the burn pot as a wick. This will make the burn more even around pot and drastically help with start up. You would have only needed to hit that kero 1 time with torch with a carbon wick in that pot. That material generally comes in 1/4inch thickness so a single length stood on end inside the burn pot should work miracle for you. That may require a double ring stand to hold it upright could be simple as stainless mesh or as complex as you like but plenty of air holes where the stand contacts the wick material would be best. This all could allow or call for a multi feed point or a feed lip/mote in the bowl. But that carbon felt material will hold up to tons of heat nothing to worry about there. this could als be as simple as a ring of 1/4-/1/2 inch pipe hooped welded closed and a 1/4 inch slot atop the pipe to insert the carbon felt. I think one of these mods would get you somewhere closer to where yor intake air control would actually be useful rather than wide open and burning mostly on one side of the pot. The air feed/pickup preheat stack pipe could have been modded to pick air to the top internally then blow downward at the drill locations which could have angles reamed/ground top and bottom of holes (top of hole ground on inside and bottom on outside) this would have gave a downward force to the drilled holes pushing fresh high temp combustion air deep into the pot rather than directly outward from the holes. Intake air has to be preheated more like wood stove catalytic secondary air must be preheated this whole section of waste oil burners is overlooked in most builds. In a great build you should see the air intakes at the top of the box to collect heat then down and under the floor plate and back up through the air blast tube section which would be doubled so air goes up a smaller pipe hit a bell shape then downward in the double wall section and out the drilled orifices. For that you may had needed to go down half size of the original hole then ream, angle or even bend those drilled holes to the desired shape... This would give 2 effects on the air entrance to pot angle effect 1 (reamed holes) is the sharper and thinner points of the holes would give up heat to the air passing through a bit better a bit more surface area there also angled versus straight holes. Thx for the video it is a nice unit dont take my input as criticisms the unit is nice as it is.
@@rustycreekfabrication Mine is a 7 1/2 gal propane with a bottom intake with flames pulling air in. I heat a small shed and 1.5 liter fill burns 4.5 - 5 hrs. Light cooking on top. I've got to clean the bowl after each use, takes a couple of minutes. Playing with the air intake volume produces a good clean burn.
I almost did but after running the set up, it worked very well for my needs and wasn't to slow or fast for the shop and keeps a perfect 55-60 degrees in winter. I definitely lucked out, but having a variable speed blower would certainly be a nice option.
Thanks for the positive feedback I appreciate that! I'm definitely going to be doing an update video on it soon, especially with the winter coming and I have a small project I'm almost done with for another video. Thanks again!
Excellent build sir. My o0nly question is layout of heat exchanger tubes. A wider flatter layout would produce more heat into the shop to my way of thinking . Please continue with your vids. Most informative and enjoyable
Thank you Mopar! I can't disagree with you, I was going to go with more pipes but I ran out of material. Lucky for me though the amount of tubes heats my shop great, but, for a bigger space it would be beneficial for more of them spread out all in the upper chamber area. I will be getting more videos up soon!
@@rustycreekfabrication cool mate. Am down in Australia. Cannot buy a wood heater with underfire draft controls due to greenie. Apparently Joe public isn't smart enough to control his fire !!@ Must be got regulated !!!
With all the waste heat going out the vent, seems like it would be worthwhile to build in some heat exchange pipes into the vent tube. There used to be a little box that you could buy for wood stoves that went between the stove and the pipe, not much reason to build that middle man into the equation if you just put pipes into the exhaust and add a plenum to force some air through those as well.
Thank you for all the suggestions, advice and positive feedback on my build. I'm glad you all like it. I'll be doing a video soon on a new burner pot design. Stay tuned! -Jay
This is getting filed under "stuff to copy" 😆 Brilliant
Lol it works great and I don't blame you 😆
@@rustycreekfabrication I've watched plenty of videos of waste oil burners on RUclips and yours suits best suits what I'm trying to achieve. One thing I was thinking of doing is adding a water trap and/or filter but maybe it's not worth it after seeing your raised inlet idea!
@LivingMyBoostLife I had planned that as well, but, figured with a raises inlet off the bottom, it should separate the water fine and so far it has, a quick open of the bottom valve and I'll get a few ounces of water every few months. I may do an oil filter video and see what I get for ash remnants using filtered oil versus non filtered oil.
It's a work of art 😊. Should fill bottom with sand to hold the heat.😊
Thanks! That's a good idea too, I planned on lining it with firebrick
Great first attempt. Two staggered rows of heat exchanger tubes spread across the width of the fire box would yield greater efficiency. Smaller, more numerous holes in the air feed side of the burn pot will help with a cleaner burn. Try a smaller throttle valve, maybe even a needle valve. Great reuse of old equipment.
funny how we wait until its freezing to build the heater LOL
Lol right? Its like we do it when it's cold and the colder it is, the sloppier we put it together haha!
Nice looking stove.
Shoulda put a flat spot on top with a grill for coffee
😆
That window door looks like something out of “hostel” the movie though
Windows from an 80s effel harmony 1 wood stove 😆
Man, you did a fantastic job! I've been consuming every video I can find on waste oil heaters, and yours is by far my favorite. I will say that you would probably benefit from some burn chamber mods, but overall the rest of the build is incredible. Thanks for taking the time to film and share with the world.
Thanks Matt! I plan on some chamber upgrades to get some more heat out of it. I appreciate the positive feedback!
Which burn chamber mods are you considering?? I'm in the process of making mine now. I've got my 275 gallon tank cut and starting the welding
@@dbplumbing1403 I plan on lining the sides and possibly the bottom with firebrick and I'm going to figure out some baffles/shield above the pipes, my goal is to concentrate the heat on the pipes more. Ultimately, my goal is to get the same heat with less oil. If these mods prove to get higher Temps, I'll switch to a needle valve so I can give it just barely enough oil to keep it my desired temp. 6 hours from one gallon sounds nice lol
Sorry for being ignorant, the firebrick will hold the heat in the chamber right? Arent we trying to get the heat out?
@@dbplumbing1403 not ignorant at all. The radiant heat is great and all but I want hotter air coming out of my heat exchanger. It blows diagonally across my shop and heats more evenly than the radiant in the corner.
Man I love that old Firebird sitting there!!!
Thats Marla, my pro touring 1967 Firebird!
Looks great. By the heat waves coming off the chimney, you might be able to capture more heat off the stove pipe with some fins.
Been designing and building my own woodstoves since the 70's and I just might have to build one of these next. This burns as clean as my wood fuel designs. Well done. Subbed 👍😎👌🇺🇸
Awesome! Thank you!
This is beyond my expertise, very impressive skills man
Thanks! It's pretty easy to put together
This is BY FAR the best one I've seen on RUclips. Great job man. I been looking at a bunch of videos to get idea's and i think i have it figured out now, because of your design.
Thanks alot Greg, I appreciate that! I've been trying to do another follow up video for it and address alot of the viewers feedback and suggestions, there's a lot of great feedback from others on here so keep in mind it's not perfect, but it works great and with a few tweaks and mods, this thing could be awesome and heat a much bigger shop!
Good morning and thank you rusty. The most complete video I've seen On this. I have been going to build one just like what you did. Force there for my garage, But I need to add a hot water loop in the heat exchange your tubes to go into my house heating system at the same time. Again thank you for the Is step-by-step.
You're very welcome!
Nice craftsmanship and presentation. Your a pretty smart guy. God bless
Thanks alot Jeff, appreciate the kind words and feedback!
Very well done on your build, video and quality of work. On the one I made I used 15 feet of stainless steel pipe that feeds my base boards the hot water. With mine I soak a sock or small rag with kerosene to start the fire, that way I only open the door once to light it to reduce smoke intake.
Thank you, that's a great idea! I'd probably go that route if I could ever heat my house with a waste oil burner
Functional and cool looking, perfect garage heater!
Thanks Ray!
Nice job on the unit.
If you put some oil in first and the kerosene on top, you shouldn't have any problem lighting it. Mine starts in a split second, with only a whiff of the torch. I use diesel.
Also, if you hold off on starting the blower till it gets going, that will help too.
Thanks for the tips Frank, appreciate it and the positive feedback!
Nice build
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
You made a nice heater out of scrap Well done Sir and nice of you to mention GerrysDiy
Thank you Paul!
Thank you for taking your time to share. Nicely done video, no nonsense and straight to the point.
Thanks Shawn!
Absolutely one of the most clear and comprehensive vids that I've watched
I will be rewatching this often, as I consider it a textbook presentation!
Thank you sir!
Thank you very much Gerry! I really appreciate it!!
@@rustycreekfabrication Excellent in every way! Thank you for sharing!!!
@@Geno2846 thank you!!
Man with you build . You bring it one step closer to being able to have a oil burner heater design. That would not look bad inside a house. I think ideally if as builders. We could make something way better then a pellet stove and way quieter
Thanks! I'd love to heat my house this way but it's a long way from being a good idea. Needs more technology and sophistication. I appreciate the kind words!
Super cool build, will have to make my own. Thanks Jay.
Awesome Ben! If you have questions feel free to ask! Thank you!
Nice looking frirebird
Thank you skeets!
Rusty, nice and clean waste oil heater !
Thank you!
Fantastic! If you set an old brake rotor or steel plate on top of the burner pot it will increase the temperature, which will increase the burn efficiency.
Mike thanks for the suggestion, I have thought about a defector of some kind to retain the heat, maybe I'll see if I can make something and try it out!
Great work!! Might I suggest that you replace those gate valves with globe valves? They're ideal for fluid throttling and regulates better.
Thank you! I'm going to look into those, appreciate the advice!
very very nice build. Thanks for taking the time to show us what you built.
Thank you AL!
Great video. Thanks for your time
You're welcome!
Great video and build. Love the glass door.
Thank you!
Very nice build. Really appreciate the video and taking the time to make it. Thanks for sharing with us.👍
You're welcome!
And thank you!
Excellent build I'd move the resovoir much further away for safety nicely done
Thank you! I was a little concerned at first but after a year of using it I've had no issues so far
Damn bro you pretty much reinvented the wheel here!! Very elaborate build that wasn't necessary but a very nice buil at that.
Thanks! It was totally necessary to build to heat my shop! Lol
Nice build! I would imagine the viscosity of the oil might change as the temperature increases.
What would happen if you lose electrical power?
The reason why I asked this is I know of a man who had a stove in his basement with a fan that circulated the heat.
He left for a few days on a business trip only to come home and find only the chimney standing.
I know you can purchase these prefab with 100% clean burn using just about every kind of fuel out there however, they are in the thousands and thousands of dollars.
Thanks for sending me the link!
Thanks! Yes the oil does thin out as the temp rises and small adjustments need to be made after about 15 minutes but once they are set, it goes all day. As far as power, if power were to be cut, it wouldn't burn as nicely, I think the efficiency would drop and I'd have a smokey fire. I'm currently looking into a solar powered blower that I can run off a battery bank thus making it 100% free energy. For now, I only use it when working in the shop so it will never be left unattended.
Really great build, and you explain your work well. Read a bunch of the comments and no one seems to have mentioned your oil tank. Just a guess, but you may want to move it outside of the room, because as it warms up, the oil will get thinner, and flow more freely. This vid is 2 years old so you may have already dealt with this, but I wanted to mention it. I have an old oil tank I've been giving dirty looks to for awhile, and this is very motivational, thanks!
Thanks for the positive feedback. The oil tank position has worked out great and doesn't get too warm at all. It does warm up slightly but not enough to cause any flow issues.
Excellent job!!
Nice build buddy! I like it. I'm sure you'll find some upgrades in the future.
Thanks Joe! I'd like to build a new burner pot for it out of stainless otherwise it's been great!
Awesome build, I think I want to try that... I just have a little drip over my wood to make the wood last longer. But, your build is next level.
Thanks! I recommend you try one out! Any questions feel free to ask
Thanks for posting this! i was looking into making one for my 1 car garage to burn all my used motor and cooking oil. Just based off the size of your tank, i think i would need about 2 quarts of oil an hour for the size of my man shed. Not sustainable unless i offer to change my friends and family's oil for the fuel lol.
You're very welcome! Good luck on your build!
Man, that turned out slick! 👌
Great build. 👍 you have spent a lot of time researching for your first build! I have made many oil stoves and all different designs. If you put a flame deflector around the burner you can keep an even burn at low flow. But please don't walk away from the stove the oil flow will change with temperatures increase its a drastic change ! The only way to keep the delivery the same is to keep the oil tank the same temp. Be careful! Awesome job! 👌
Thank you! I have thought about a deflector and I may put one in this upcoming winter, I appreciate the positive feedback!
Great job,I really enjoyed the well presented video. It might be interesting to see if you could add a wet heat exchanger and a pump a small expansion tank and run a couple of radiators off the system.
Thanks Dennis, that's a great idea, I just don't think I'll be needing that much heat. Generally the coldest in my area in New England gets down around 20 degrees for a week or 2 every winter and the shop Temps hover around 55-60 with this on low. Definitely doable for someone else that wants to extract more from the heater though
Great build. You could probably easily double the efficiency if you set up a unit to store some heat. If set up a small drum sealed with oil and exchange some of the heat into the drum ...That drum of oil would stay hot for hours after the boiler is shut off.
Thank you! That's a cool idea, first I've heard of that. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@rustycreekfabrication There is also a lot of new video's on "Sand Batteries"
The amount of heat that sand can store is off the charts.
You might want to try adding some fire bricks to the bottom of the burner pot. My high school shop teacher built one that way 40 years ago and it made it much easier to light. Overall it looks like it's going to keep you warm! Thank you for the detailed build.🙂 Hmmm make that 43yrs ago! Me old fart yankee
Thank you Mark! That actually is the plan, add fire brick to the bottom and sides along with a deflector above to concentrate the heat in the box. I'll be doing an update vid soon!
I enjoyed the build ,great job. I really like how you repurposed steel and worked to get the best yield of your materials. Cheers
Looks like a Lopi wood stove front door, nice.
Increase the height of the combustion chamber and inject some air into the flame higher up, high enough where it won't blow out the fire. Injecting air into the yellow flame can make it burn blue which is more efficient and cleaner. Angling the air injection points to cause a swirl helps too.
The problem with these kinds of stoves is that oil flow can vary. If there is a bit of sludge in the oil the valve must be opened more. When the room heats up and the sludge clears the metering valve the oil flow goes up which could be a problem if no one is monitoring the fire. As a precaution the oil supply container could be limited to an amount that could not overflow the combustion chamber.
Thanks for the feedback. The door is from an Efel harmony stove. I do plan on a different burner design to get a better burn, most likely out of stainless. As far as oil quality, I strain all oil and adjust feed the feed when the temp gets higher and viscosity changes. I'll post a new over view video soon of the feedback I've gotten and how the burner has been working these last 2 years. Cheers
Awesome build. You have great fabrication skills. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for watching, glad you liked it!
Nice work
Thank you!
Excellent craftsmanship! Very info for anyone looking to build one. You definitely know what you are doing.
Dude , it looks fantastic . All it needs is a coat of BBQ paint . Glass door is awesome . Whats the point of fire if you can't see the flame . Nice .
Thanks man! I might give it a coat of paint someday. I still have yet to do so more mods to the stove so I may have to cut into it, so I haven't done paint yet. I like the door glass too, it's a bit hazy and a local glass company said they can cut me a new piece for like $50 so it will be replaced soon.
First class and very informative. Merry Christmas from Scotland
Thanks Raymond! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Great job Im impressed
Thank you!
nice build. It looks like when you were trying to light it that your blower motor is creating negative suction on your combustion air input because it so close to the blower motor air intake at the back of the stove. You might want to experiment by trying to take a little bit of air out of the output of your blower motor and direct it into the combustion air intake to eliminate this negative pressure and actually make a positive pressure into your combustion air. Positive pressure on your combustion air would also give you a better burn i would think as well. Also I would have put your furnace combustion output toward the back of the box so you could then put a baffle inside your furnace that went from the back of the furnace to almost the front of the furnace under the heat exchanger tubes. This would force the heated gas to go forward after combustion to the front of the stove and then the combustion exhaust air would be forced along the heat exchanger tubes to the back of the furnace to exit out of the exhaust. This would enable you to gather much more heat energy to your exchanger and keep it from going out of your chimney. I would probably still put this baffle in with your current configuration of exhaust pipe exit to try to gain a bit more heat capture.
Thanks. Its been working great for 2 years now.
Looks great
Thank you!
Nice job
Thanks nicholas!
It's amazing how a tiny stream of oil can produce so much heat. In essence, oil is concentrated sunlight.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Thank you! And you're welcome!
Very nice work 👍 thx for sharing
Thank you!
awesome build!!! .... now if you'll excuse me, I've got to go look for an oil tank!
Thanks Chris! Lol
Awesome build there. I need to build one a lot smaller.
Thanks Robert! You could always cut the 275 gallon down to 2 feet in length and cut it shorter, I think it would still function great.
Great heater man. Thanks for sharing
Thank you Jeremy!
Good job! Now some paint and a cleaned up sight glass
Thanks Glenn! I'm going to replace the glass but I like the patina/steam punk raw finish lol
1st, get a small fixed displacement oil pump and set it up on a timer to regulate the oil flow. Then you don't have to fiddle with the flow rate with different oil weights and Temps. 2nd thing, put a flame sensor switch hooked up to a valve to shut off oil in case of flame out.
The other thing I have been toying with is superheated intake air to allow for cleaner combustion at lower flame.
Thanks for the suggestions Nathaniel, I'll be looking into these!
You just got a new subscriber. Great work
Thanks Hayes!
Great build, I have been working on and building cremation equipment and boilers for 25+ years. The only thing I would have done differently is used some 304 stainless to make the burner pot.
Randy I 100% agree, at the time I wanted to fab up a stainless pot but I'd prefer to tig it up and I haven't bought a tig welder yet. Maybe some time in the future I'll get some stainless stock and make one. Thanks for the positive feedback, I appreciate it!
@@rustycreekfabrication actually I think mig would hold up better just because you can put down more material when you weld. Almost anything we weld on a crematory or boiler will be stick or mig. Stick is a fantastic alternative. They have some great rods for stainless now.
@@ranscottb Thanks for the info, I have an old craftsman 220v stick welder that my grandfather left me when he passed, it's one of the older heavy units that I have only used a couple times to fix an old wood stove. I'll have to give it a shot on one of my projects or even a burner pot for this heater. Thanks again!
Brake drums and cast iron pots work for burner pots
Hope Santa bring you a grinder for Christmas!
I have 4! Now if I can just get him to bring me new lungs! Lol
Rock on, clean build
Thank you!!
This has to be the best RUclips video I have seen so far for sure. Look forward to see more from you Sir. The step by step explanation is great. What I am wondering is why the fire is not a blue color ??? Blue color signifies the most efficient burn. Peace VF
Thank you very much for the kind words. I Wish it had a blue flame! Lol I only claim efficiency in the sense of how many gph it burns through.
@@rustycreekfabrication Maybe you could find something on the tube and make an additional improvement Sir. Thanks VF
The blue flame is made when your using propane or natural gas. The yellow tips on the ends of the blue flame indicates an unclean burn. The jets or pressure should be adjusted to stop the yellow tip from the blue flame so that you do have a cleaner burning flame. That’s why they’re O2 detectors in the houses/building.
Hope this helps. Happy Holidays
@@wolfparty4234 Thanks for the information which really helped me Wolf Party. Good day and peace too. VF
I love the workmanship, i want to build somethhing similar from 2 barrels and some stove bricks so it also keeps the heat longer but, i think because you crammed those heat exchanger pipes so close together the smoke goes around them instead of through them... maybe a different geometry would have helped
Thank you for the feedback, I researched my pipe spacing, they work great!
A few windings copper pipe around itself, or the stovepipe , connected to a small tank, and you got yourself a hot water supply for free too. Great video anyway ;)
Thank you! That's a great idea, I just don't have use for hot water out there lol
That heat going up the chimney darn near made me cry.
I was hoping for a hybrid rocket mass stove on oil. Something I've never seen.
Sorry to disappoint, however, I haven't found another oil heater using a blower to feed the heat exchanger and burn pot on youtube yet.
Great build I'm impressed!
Some years ago I built a burner for melting alu and brass. I use a mix of 50 % of diesel and waste oil. It also needs compressed air to work and a fan for better and cleaner burning. I have som videos of it on my channel. Oh and by the way I subbed to your channel, I think you deserve it. 🙂
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback and I'm going to check yours out!
@@rustycreekfabrication Thank you sir.
nice build
Thanks!
That is so awesome
Very nice build!
Thank you!
that pontiac is cool,
Thanks! That's my 67 Firebird Pro touring car. I actually have another project build coming to my channel soon!
Very nice job ! I really like your build ! Just wish my body would let me build one ☹️
Thank you Howard!
Well done
Thank you Anthony!
Nice job, it even looks good!
Thank you Raymond!!
Nice Job, ..... Bravo !
Thank you Lincoln!
Awesome setup!
Thank you sir!
What is the purpose of the center hexagon air chamber being so tall? Very cool build, I would like to add an oil drip to my pellet stove.
I wanted to keep the fire in a cylindrical shape which it works ok, more so to keep the fire concentrated in the ring. I may change the design, not sure yet
There's a few easy things you could do to optimize the overall package, but man that thing is cherry! Me being me, I'd find some kind of way to extract your flue heat to turn a generator and have it power itself (and maybe your shop), but that'd burn a bit more oil undoubtedly. Nature of the beast. However if you've stockpiled your gallons, it'd be really sweet to see this thing be self-sufficient!
Thanks Cosplay! That's a cool idea on the generator. I'm looking into getting this thing 100% free to operate by 12 volt blowers that could run off solar alone. Might be in the future. Thanks for the info and feedback!
@@rustycreekfabrication If you want to have a prepatory examination, I'd be willing to bet your blower is putting out a lot more air than is going through your exchange pipes and likely backflowing back into your ducting, in which case, you could plumb a 'bleed valve' -type offshoot into your fresh air intake and really stoke the flames netting a lot more heat. Be a shame just to send it up the chimney though. 😁
I built a small-ish jet engine some years ago that I'm going to repurpose this spring into a sweet forge blower/backup generator but I'd really love to get back into it to see how I can retrofit a waste oil burner setup on it.
Great build bud!
Thanks Carl!
For greater efficiency, move more air through the heat exchanger: more tubes (more surface area for heat exchange), more air velocity. The cooler the air is coming out, the more heat you extract. Obviously you want air coming out to be warm enough to feel warm, but a small amount of air heated to screaming hot is nowhere near as useful as a big amount of air that is just a couple of degrees above your desired temperature.
The biggest problem with super efficient heat from oil as a fuel is the condensate from it basically turns into coal and plugs up heat exchangers incredibly fast 💨 so a high exhaust temp will help it be a lot less of a maintenance problem and stay reliable and safe
Yep gotta somehow harness that heat going out the chimney?
@@thomasmiller1286 condensate will kill it if you do this
"The cooler the air is coming out, the more heat you extract." -- obviously a MIN/MAX problem, as cooler air could also indicate poor heat exchange rate... exaggerated down to zero, eg.
Now all I need to learn is how to weld! 😁
I'm still learning myself!
great put together video
Thanks Dennis! I wish it were more professional but I'm still learning as i go, Appreciate the positive feedback!
In addition to the comment I made re sight glass, I wanted to say I would love to make a smaller version for my 380sq' garage vs your 600sq' shop. Unfortunately, my city is EXTREMELY intrusive and controlling. (We should rename it "Stepford" lol) I'd have to do it "under the radar." :/ Fantastic project! Now I just have to learn how to weld!!!
Thanks Greg! I'll look into the old coffee pots, that's a great idea (plus I love recycling/repurposing old items). I recommend a cheap harbor freight welder if you don't have one and weld.com videos right here on youtube!
You could scavenge a bit more heat from the top 1/3 heat exchange area by adding some plate at angle to force the rise directly between the tubes (from the wall slightly upward to force air path right through the exchange tubes). then a roof plate above the tubes like a slight angle being higher at the tubes and lower at the wall leaving a .5 to .75 inch gap at the wall for the exiting air.. this gives more time and direct contact on the heat exchanger tubes using thermal stratification to your advantage. That should get more energy into the shop and less up the flue. If it becomes a permanent unit you could do a baffle box around the blower side to pick up air from floor and reduce the noise a bit although it was rather quiet for the blowers size. This box could be simple double sheet metal ducting material with fiberglass insulation between and 1-2 plate of baffle. You could even filter the air if you want pulling in air from the corner of wall to reduce noise and keep squirrel cage blades from clogging over time. Other things to consider or try is adding carbon felt (welding blanket) material to the burn pot as a wick. This will make the burn more even around pot and drastically help with start up. You would have only needed to hit that kero 1 time with torch with a carbon wick in that pot. That material generally comes in 1/4inch thickness so a single length stood on end inside the burn pot should work miracle for you. That may require a double ring stand to hold it upright could be simple as stainless mesh or as complex as you like but plenty of air holes where the stand contacts the wick material would be best. This all could allow or call for a multi feed point or a feed lip/mote in the bowl. But that carbon felt material will hold up to tons of heat nothing to worry about there. this could als be as simple as a ring of 1/4-/1/2 inch pipe hooped welded closed and a 1/4 inch slot atop the pipe to insert the carbon felt. I think one of these mods would get you somewhere closer to where yor intake air control would actually be useful rather than wide open and burning mostly on one side of the pot. The air feed/pickup preheat stack pipe could have been modded to pick air to the top internally then blow downward at the drill locations which could have angles reamed/ground top and bottom of holes (top of hole ground on inside and bottom on outside) this would have gave a downward force to the drilled holes pushing fresh high temp combustion air deep into the pot rather than directly outward from the holes. Intake air has to be preheated more like wood stove catalytic secondary air must be preheated this whole section of waste oil burners is overlooked in most builds. In a great build you should see the air intakes at the top of the box to collect heat then down and under the floor plate and back up through the air blast tube section which would be doubled so air goes up a smaller pipe hit a bell shape then downward in the double wall section and out the drilled orifices. For that you may had needed to go down half size of the original hole then ream, angle or even bend those drilled holes to the desired shape... This would give 2 effects on the air entrance to pot angle effect 1 (reamed holes) is the sharper and thinner points of the holes would give up heat to the air passing through a bit better a bit more surface area there also angled versus straight holes. Thx for the video it is a nice unit dont take my input as criticisms the unit is nice as it is.
Wow, thanks for all the info!
you have some skills bro
Thanks Douglas!
looking forward to new vids, Alex.
Thanks Alex!
Good job really nice like it
Thanks Bert! Glad you like it!
Happy as a clam in high tide, as long as electricity is coming in.
I agree, I would like to power my blower with solar. I get 6+ hours of sun on my garage each day.
@@rustycreekfabrication Mine is a 7 1/2 gal propane with a bottom intake with flames pulling air in. I heat a small shed and 1.5 liter fill burns 4.5 - 5 hrs. Light cooking on top. I've got to clean the bowl after each use, takes a couple of minutes. Playing with the air intake volume produces a good clean burn.
Good job
Thanks Dennis!
You “could” change your blower switch to a dimmer switch to control the fan speed, not sure how well the motor would handle it but it will work.
I almost did but after running the set up, it worked very well for my needs and wasn't to slow or fast for the shop and keeps a perfect 55-60 degrees in winter. I definitely lucked out, but having a variable speed blower would certainly be a nice option.
Pretty neat
That’s pretty sweet !!!
Thanks Jason!
Awesome build. You need to update us on how it has held up and make more videos! Excellent content!
Thanks for the positive feedback I appreciate that! I'm definitely going to be doing an update video on it soon, especially with the winter coming and I have a small project I'm almost done with for another video. Thanks again!
Yeah..how's it doing?
@@dustinlahr2156 it's doing great, I'm gathering some parts to do some mods and I'll put up a comparison video soon.
Excellent build sir. My o0nly question is layout of heat exchanger tubes. A wider flatter layout would produce more heat into the shop to my way of thinking . Please continue with your vids. Most informative and enjoyable
Thank you Mopar! I can't disagree with you, I was going to go with more pipes but I ran out of material. Lucky for me though the amount of tubes heats my shop great, but, for a bigger space it would be beneficial for more of them spread out all in the upper chamber area. I will be getting more videos up soon!
@@rustycreekfabrication cool mate. Am down in Australia. Cannot buy a wood heater with underfire draft controls due to greenie. Apparently Joe public isn't smart enough to control his fire !!@ Must be got regulated !!!
Govt regulated
With all the waste heat going out the vent, seems like it would be worthwhile to build in some heat exchange pipes into the vent tube. There used to be a little box that you could buy for wood stoves that went between the stove and the pipe, not much reason to build that middle man into the equation if you just put pipes into the exhaust and add a plenum to force some air through those as well.
I saw those for wood stoves and it's definitely an option!