Amazing 2 videos helped a lot on which tools to use and what parts to cut with the flush cutter I was mainly stuck on how to put the yellow power switch 8:15 your the only video that shows it 👍 If anyone gonna do a shell swap make sure to take pictures every time u take a part off or a screw so u can remember how to put it back
WARNING! PIN THIS, IMMEDIATELY! I have a very crucial warning I must address while servicing a PSP analog stick, since I serviced countless PSPs since 2012 (excluding the Go, and the E1000/Street models, as I am not familiar with the internal structures). If your PSP, specifically the 100x, and 200x, models, that utilizes the conductive rubber membrane, if your analog stick, still makes random ghosting/drifting movements, and you figured out the analog stick, is in great condition, or you just bought a new one but still the system, registers studder movements (most likely will happen in the internet browser's pointer). Then the problem, is not the analog stick, even the rubber membrane, is most likely the copper plates that are located on the front of the motherboard if you have a 100x model, while the analog copper plates are located on the rear side if you have a 200x model. This fix is not difficult, but requires not so commonly found tools from hardware stores. You need a heat gun, but I recommend a hot airwork station the best, next is some solder flux, some kapton tape, and isopropyl alcohol. Place some kapton tape around the areas where the analog copper plates are located, just to make sure, the hot air gun, won't heat undesired areas, other than just the copper plates, use some sploosh of solder flux on top of the copper plates, and adjust the desired temperature of you hot air (something like °360'C) and begin by heating the plates. Let it cool off completely, and wipe off all excess flux, with isopropyl alcohol, and is DONE! reassemble the console, and watch your analog stick no longer making sudden movements!
Its such a shame the third party shells are made with such poor tolerances since a lot of second hand psp are "well loved" so to speak. Tried cleaning up my 1000 and 2000 with new shells and failed on both of them. Gamgear shells are much better made
Out of the 3 models I found at least for now and at this time, 3000 shells have the best chance of a good result. They seem to come and go and which manufacturer build is sent is usually a coin toss.
It sucks even more when many other handheld consoles have many good or even great options for shell replacements. And with the good ones, the quality is even close to on par with oem. 3rd party PSP shell manufacturers need to step up their game cause right now it's just better to buy the psp in the color you want, and avoid the ones physically damaged. There's a whole market literally waiting for better shells to come out
@@TotalKommando Can confirm. Bought a 3000 shell and it fits very well. No modifications required on my part. Only flimsy thing is the battery door which creaks.
Did you have a small metal shield under the wifi/audio board? many of the other videos seem to have one but mine does not, and it seemed yours did not as well but just wanted to try and clarify.
@@TotalKommandoWell I appreciate the effort. I still needed a reassembly guide after using the disassembly guide. It just seemed like you did one especially cuz you say there’s two parts
Great video! Have there been any reports of success using the original silver outer frame (along with original power/WiFi switch, etc) in a third party front + back shell?
I got you, so I just tried swapping my transparent glossy 1000 shell with the 2 part power switch to an OG Shell, everything fits alright, not perfect but it works, the top piece was the worse Swapping the otherway around, depending on what third party shell you got, you may need to trim the bottom lip on the OG power switch side, since there is no cut out on it, at least on my glossy transparent 1000 shell Just be ready to do tiny slot expansion/trims on the shell if you want it to drop in without too much stress on the plastics
@@TotalKommando Thanks! I just ordered a purple transparent 1000 shell (the only one I could find available on eBay) and the silver outer frame part has weird manufacturing circles here and there on it. I was thinking of just using the OG shell with OG power switch + Wifi switch etc to work around this. Unless there are any purple transparent shells of high quality you'd recommend elsewhere? I haven't identified a reliable source to find high quality shell replacements at this point
@@trashcanpatrol The fact you found a purple transparent 1000 shell is a miracle, those have been sold out for years so its practically rare lol Once you get it, you will figure out what to do, but if you wanna be on the safe side, you could order a spare trim outline from aliexpress or ebay just in case. Worse Best Case is you paint the trim black, throw on original black buttons and you got a sick unique psp 1000. The only good 1000 shells I have found are the matt finish transparent shells I have linked in the description, they have nearly OEM fit, its amazing.
@@TotalKommando Sorry for my delay, I didn't see the notification on RUclips until just now! That's awesome though! That re-ignites my interest to get the shell swap working. I had no idea how to describe it but trim outline is what I'll look for; thank you! I'm hoping this shell will be a good fit and everything, but will see. Hadn't even thought to check for extra shell parts to swap in, so that's a great option!
Is there a matt, black, psp 1000, front plate? Does not seem so, it would be so nice to have a fully opaque enclosure, do you have any contacts with companies that produce such, do you think you can make this happen? The PSP also needs a Reflective LCD screen, many people did ask on forums for blue light filters for the PSP, yet a RLCD would be a better alternative, lcd could be modded to be a reflective one, can this interest you? Thank you. Currently i have a stock 1000 which i run trough the barrel power cable with a 10000mah power bank, is honestly better than a umd battery mod or a expanded battery, in fact im not using any battery at all now, just the power bank and it gives days of continuous play, since i tested the port with a usb multimeter and the condole itself draw around 100mA and can be placed on a backpack or something while being out, very comfortable.
I wish, I need a replacement for project smokey. Those are some ideas I can explore in the future, but no I got no contacts, it just seems like the stock is pretty much out on those matte finish shells, and we may never see them again.
i did this and i think the corrosion in my ribbon cables for the triggers broke connection after moving it around because they auto press.... I ordered replacement ribbons I hope that fixes it
I have been asked this question back when I was just entering highschool when I made my first modding video lol Answer is still no, not at this time xd Im making these videos to help people doing things themselfs : )
My PSP 1000 keeps drifting up after this installation. However i did miss out on the retainer installation. Could that be the problem? Any reasona for its drifting?
Sometimes I would do an install and it would work fine, then I open it again and drifting starts to happen, I think its the analog jell bridge might be flipped in a different way that it was before or the subframe isnt sitting correctly, I have not tested this but one possible fix is to add a thin layer of paper around the analog stick area to push up the motherboard so it can make better contact on the analog. These third party shells have poor tolerances
Add tape to the bottom of the plastic buttons, till things feel right, sometimes the silicon is worn and needs to be replaced if you had this problem before the swap
A small piece of tape to each of the sides, just big enough to not interfere with anything surrounding it, sometimes you have to add more than 1 layer, sometimes its becomes the opposite. You could also try adding a later of something thin like a piece of paper to push up the side you need to function better. Works for the DPAD but not so as east for the face buttons
I would say my my hands are medium the close up wide angle makes them look bigger, but my hands were definitely smaller as a kid lol I used the same techniques from 2008 to open and close.
![Type-C Charging Port Mod For PSP 1000 [ Solderless ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XVT2RHyB1Do/mqdefault.jpg)
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Amazing 2 videos helped a lot on which tools to use and what parts to cut with the flush cutter I was mainly stuck on how to put the yellow power switch 8:15 your the only video that shows it 👍
If anyone gonna do a shell swap make sure to take pictures every time u take a part off or a screw so u can remember how to put it back
WARNING! PIN THIS, IMMEDIATELY!
I have a very crucial warning I must address while servicing a PSP analog stick, since I serviced countless PSPs since 2012 (excluding the Go, and the E1000/Street models, as I am not familiar with the internal structures). If your PSP, specifically the 100x, and 200x, models, that utilizes the conductive rubber membrane, if your analog stick, still makes random ghosting/drifting movements, and you figured out the analog stick, is in great condition, or you just bought a new one but still the system, registers studder movements (most likely will happen in the internet browser's pointer). Then the problem, is not the analog stick, even the rubber membrane, is most likely the copper plates that are located on the front of the motherboard if you have a 100x model, while the analog copper plates are located on the rear side if you have a 200x model. This fix is not difficult, but requires not so commonly found tools from hardware stores. You need a heat gun, but I recommend a hot airwork station the best, next is some solder flux, some kapton tape, and isopropyl alcohol. Place some kapton tape around the areas where the analog copper plates are located, just to make sure, the hot air gun, won't heat undesired areas, other than just the copper plates, use some sploosh of solder flux on top of the copper plates, and adjust the desired temperature of you hot air (something like °360'C) and begin by heating the plates. Let it cool off completely, and wipe off all excess flux, with isopropyl alcohol, and is DONE! reassemble the console, and watch your analog stick no longer making sudden movements!
Its such a shame the third party shells are made with such poor tolerances since a lot of second hand psp are "well loved" so to speak. Tried cleaning up my 1000 and 2000 with new shells and failed on both of them. Gamgear shells are much better made
Out of the 3 models I found at least for now and at this time, 3000 shells have the best chance of a good result.
They seem to come and go and which manufacturer build is sent is usually a coin toss.
It sucks even more when many other handheld consoles have many good or even great options for shell replacements. And with the good ones, the quality is even close to on par with oem.
3rd party PSP shell manufacturers need to step up their game cause right now it's just better to buy the psp in the color you want, and avoid the ones physically damaged. There's a whole market literally waiting for better shells to come out
@@TotalKommando Can confirm. Bought a 3000 shell and it fits very well. No modifications required on my part. Only flimsy thing is the battery door which creaks.
Next 2 Videos Will Be:
- 3DS Analog Stick Adaption
- AliExpress PSPs
🧐One of these things is not like the other...
Great videos sir!
It took me a few hours of whittling and carving, but managed to fit my 1k into a new white shell. It was quite a diy.
Its such a pain, it really does take a couple hours for something that shouldn't take longer than 15 mins
Awesome Job I like the 2 tone with the black buttons !
As somebody else said wd forty is not a contact cleaner... Ninety one percent isopropal alcohol would have been a much better choice.
Thank you, priceless video
I will even save it to my hdd to not to lose
Did you have a small metal shield under the wifi/audio board? many of the other videos seem to have one but mine does not, and it seemed yours did not as well but just wanted to try and clarify.
iirc the slim models have that under, not the 1000
I expected a reassembly tutorial tbh now I’m here with a disassembled psp and gotta retrace the steps of the last video backwards :/
Your right, all this work then no reassembly tutorial. I'll make sure to make one.
Then repeat it all 4 more times for the 2000, 3000, Go & E1000 : |
@@TotalKommandoWell I appreciate the effort. I still needed a reassembly guide after using the disassembly guide. It just seemed like you did one especially cuz you say there’s two parts
I want to see someone make the back logo glow and flash when the umd loads
Added to the list of mods once I get to it : )
However I have plans for RGB lighting in the UMD area.
@@TotalKommando cool
Great video! Have there been any reports of success using the original silver outer frame (along with original power/WiFi switch, etc) in a third party front + back shell?
I got you, so I just tried swapping my transparent glossy 1000 shell with the 2 part power switch to an OG Shell, everything fits alright, not perfect but it works, the top piece was the worse
Swapping the otherway around, depending on what third party shell you got, you may need to trim the bottom lip on the OG power switch side, since there is no cut out on it, at least on my glossy transparent 1000 shell
Just be ready to do tiny slot expansion/trims on the shell if you want it to drop in without too much stress on the plastics
@@TotalKommando Thanks! I just ordered a purple transparent 1000 shell (the only one I could find available on eBay) and the silver outer frame part has weird manufacturing circles here and there on it. I was thinking of just using the OG shell with OG power switch + Wifi switch etc to work around this.
Unless there are any purple transparent shells of high quality you'd recommend elsewhere? I haven't identified a reliable source to find high quality shell replacements at this point
@@trashcanpatrol The fact you found a purple transparent 1000 shell is a miracle, those have been sold out for years so its practically rare lol
Once you get it, you will figure out what to do, but if you wanna be on the safe side, you could order a spare trim outline from aliexpress or ebay just in case. Worse Best Case is you paint the trim black, throw on original black buttons and you got a sick unique psp 1000.
The only good 1000 shells I have found are the matt finish transparent shells I have linked in the description, they have nearly OEM fit, its amazing.
@@TotalKommando Sorry for my delay, I didn't see the notification on RUclips until just now!
That's awesome though! That re-ignites my interest to get the shell swap working. I had no idea how to describe it but trim outline is what I'll look for; thank you! I'm hoping this shell will be a good fit and everything, but will see. Hadn't even thought to check for extra shell parts to swap in, so that's a great option!
any plans on doing this for the other models?
All models are in the works, I gotta do Disassembly/Reassembly video followed by the Shell Swap video.
They should be better structured than this one.
Very nice.
Bought a third party shell on AliExpress. Buttons aren’t working, any suggestions? Thank you
Use original buttons or buy white buttons from ali express, the white ones work well
Is there a matt, black, psp 1000, front plate? Does not seem so, it would be so nice to have a fully opaque enclosure, do you have any contacts with companies that produce such, do you think you can make this happen? The PSP also needs a Reflective LCD screen, many people did ask on forums for blue light filters for the PSP, yet a RLCD would be a better alternative, lcd could be modded to be a reflective one, can this interest you? Thank you. Currently i have a stock 1000 which i run trough the barrel power cable with a 10000mah power bank, is honestly better than a umd battery mod or a expanded battery, in fact im not using any battery at all now, just the power bank and it gives days of continuous play, since i tested the port with a usb multimeter and the condole itself draw around 100mA and can be placed on a backpack or something while being out, very comfortable.
I wish, I need a replacement for project smokey. Those are some ideas I can explore in the future, but no I got no contacts, it just seems like the stock is pretty much out on those matte finish shells, and we may never see them again.
i did this and i think the corrosion in my ribbon cables for the triggers broke connection after moving it around because they auto press.... I ordered replacement ribbons I hope that fixes it
Thankfully I can tell you in my experience those replacement ribbons work pretty well.
Hey man there any chance you could do my psp if i send it in ? Its a 1002
I have been asked this question back when I was just entering highschool when I made my first modding video lol
Answer is still no, not at this time xd
Im making these videos to help people doing things themselfs : )
The regular wd40 is not a contact cleaner.
You're right, but if thats all one has it helps losen some debris
HI, where you buy this ostent batteries?
You can find them on eBay, Amazon, & AliExpress
Make sure you are getting the ones with the cooper colored labels. (1400mAh/2200mAh)
My PSP 1000 keeps drifting up after this installation. However i did miss out on the retainer installation. Could that be the problem? Any reasona for its drifting?
Sometimes I would do an install and it would work fine, then I open it again and drifting starts to happen, I think its the analog jell bridge might be flipped in a different way that it was before or the subframe isnt sitting correctly, I have not tested this but one possible fix is to add a thin layer of paper around the analog stick area to push up the motherboard so it can make better contact on the analog.
These third party shells have poor tolerances
What area of the analogue stick should I place the paper? Under the metal frame on the mobo?
@@zuigi6087 under the mobo
I might just replace my UMD drive with a raspberry pi mod. Do you know any mods that take up the UMD bay?
I know what the problem is. The faceplate doesn't clamp on smoothly even when screw down.
i was trying ti reassemble and the buttons with arrows i have to push them all the way down fir them to work. Any suggestions?
Add tape to the bottom of the plastic buttons, till things feel right, sometimes the silicon is worn and needs to be replaced if you had this problem before the swap
A small piece of tape to each of the sides, just big enough to not interfere with anything surrounding it, sometimes you have to add more than 1 layer, sometimes its becomes the opposite.
You could also try adding a later of something thin like a piece of paper to push up the side you need to function better. Works for the DPAD but not so as east for the face buttons
Your hands are either ginormous or my hands were just small when I had one of these. I think it's the first one.
I would say my my hands are medium the close up wide angle makes them look bigger, but my hands were definitely smaller as a kid lol I used the same techniques from 2008 to open and close.