How To Do An Effective Smart Repair Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2017
- In this video i will be taking you through the stages in how to do an effective smart repair , we have gone into great detail in this video to try and include as much information on tools,materials and process as we can, smart repair work can be a great way to repair a localised area on a cars paint without having to go into painting multiple panels or doing a full panel, and althoug we dont do this often it does have a place in the automotive industry from manufacturing to car sales
I hope you guys enjoy and feel free to subscribe and like the video and if you have any questions comment below and as always i will do my best to answer each and all questions
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great vid Tony..thanks for the tips...have got some small areas on my L200 that need some work on...using your smart repair method will save me having to re spray large panels..many thanks...
no problem
I did my first spot repair on a very strange damaged paint area on my car. It seemed like a drop of something that had tiny deep holes within it. I sanded all the way down to the bare metal until the holes were gone. So the metal, primer and paint were visible...Here are my steps: 1-clean the area. 2-primer coat with self etching primer. 3-sand and clean. 4-couple of coats of touch up paint from the dealership with the brush it comes with which by the way it's a nightmare to use that brush on anything but rock chips. 5-sand and clean. 6-couple of layers of clear coat. The end result is not pretty but it's not horrendous for a first timer, at least it's very well protected now. So, i'm planning on redoing it with a small airbrush that i'm going to purchase soon so it can come out better. There's also two more spot like this on my car that I still want to use the air brush method on as well. Anyone has any tips or tricks that can advise me?
Great vid, thx!
enjoyed the vid mate, I can't wait to watch part 2
thankyou
This is a great learning video. What I would really like to see a tutorial on is a smart repair on a door edge. Like a door that has several chips along edge, how to blow paint repair on chips and blend into rest of door
Great video I’m following your steps on my car door, I forgot to 180 grit after 120, I put the filler...😳😳 doni have to do it all over???
excellent video my one suggestion would be to use a guide coat on the filler and the primer to make it easier to see any low or high spots ,pin holes scratch marks etc.and to make sure the swage line is absolutely straight.Guide coat can be any dark colour from an aerosol or spray gun just dusted on lightly,takes all the guesswork out of rubbing down.
thats a good tip for the beginners mate i have to say
Details of the how to and why really helpful and clear. Very well done
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi mate, thank you the great video. What Air pressure did you use on the 1.0 Spray Gun? How many bars was it?
Awesome vid..thanks tony
your welcome thanks for watching
Great stuff ,thank you!
My pleasure
Great video. How do you know how much paint is needed for each coat? Do you use a depth gauge? What is the ratio for primer, base and clear you use for smart repair?
Hi any chance you could do a spot repair using tangerine scream pearlescent and blend in the clear cheers?
Mick
Good work mate, nice blend and finish.
thanks man
Bloody brilliant for us Sunday have a go heros
Lol thanks Steven hope it helped mate
What a great video top work very informative and easy to understand I will be trying a smart repair on my S3 roof tomorrow hopefully saves it a trip to body shop😊
good Technic,I know it's a instructions vidoe, Especially on very very small defects,but this I would rather clear the whole fender,less work.Doing it this way actually makes it more laboras.But I know your talking about smaller repair.
Absolutely, a brilliant video. Best smart repair vid out there.
Fantastis informative video matey, will certainly be following you as i am just about to start painting. Thank you
Welcome ray and thanks welcome to the channel
Hi Tony, the fade out thinners you use in part 2, is that just neat thinners?? Regards Ray
yeah thats just 2k fast thinner but its best to use fade out thinner tbh
Great video...Thanks
thanks for watching fella
Thanks for your skilled professional tips very well said great video man Awesome thanks again.
Your welcome bud
nice video tony thanks for showing us something you would not normally do. as a diyer I would bottle it and paint the panel lol
lol i prefer to do a panel myself anyway this is just something ive been asked for alot
Great tutorial. Interesting about the panel heat lamp and it heats the substrate panel surface. Commercial panel lamps are quite expensive, would a patio heater style lamp work?
Great video Tony.
Very informative and detailed about what sandpapper. Like 400 grit or 600 grit.
Just wondering what kind of cleaner did you spray the panel after the "inspection spray"
+Amoth Jon just a standard panel wipe / wax and grease remover , and thanks I've tried to break this video down into as much detail as I can to show every aspect for viewers leaving nothing out
You´r doing a great job.
Keep it up mate :D
thanks buddy
I'm looking to become a smart repair technician at 28. Got a interview on Tuesday next week
A used black car I recently bought had scratches and small dents on the panels. So the cardealer gave my car to a SMART repair person to repair the scratches and dents. On return of my car, I noticed lots of white spots (in the area where the werk was done) that couldn't be removed when I rubbed them with my finger or fingernail. Are the white spots the results from overspray?
Thank you!
Thanks for the video Tony ! What kind of IR lamp are you running ? Im due for a new unit and this one looks like a great little money maker.
Think the links in the description mate tbh
Great video.
Thanks 😊
Nice job Tony!! Don't you get marks from the straight painted filler against the floppy? I know you never get them away,even if you sand all the filler away the marks will stay.
the primer do you mean ? if so no as the edge feathers out slighlty due to the way we mask so bloacks out with no issue at all
Won’t the primer start peeling on areas that were only sanded with 1000 grit? I thought needed at least 400 grit to adhere to?
Good vid I wanna start my own mobile repair van
Awesome to hear mate I hope
Things go well for you if you do
Hi Tony,
Newbie paint sprayer here.
Can I spray 2k without an air fed respirator?
Thanks
Andy
Another great video Tony.
Slightly different from my own methods, but it's great to see how others do it.
+Stephenniall1 personally I don't tend do do these kind of repairs but it's the way I see these done everyday and it's quick clean and works well
big follower Tony and thanks. not sure you mentioned... you probably will say in vid 2 ..... worth saying you're getting away with repairing the wing so high up as 1 it's a scrap panel as you said... but also a solid colour for any viewer that thinks they can spray that high and get away with a butt match against a bonnet. I know you're not doing that. awesome work matey. "Now lets paint some feces" lol
lol yes i go through the colour match aspect in part 2 mate , lol nice job at not swearing at the end lol haha
I really like the longer clips :) With 20% thinner in the primer, how long do you wait inbetween your coats to not get any shrinkage later on? And i just thought about leaving a comment on the P3000 being too fine when you said that it worked so far for you. I usually don't go finer than P1500. IF i'm using P2000, i add a tiny splash of blending solvent to the clear to give it a little more "bite". Looking forward to pt.2 :)
+Chuck Thomas believe me I till I saw it done with 3000 I wudnt have said it would have worked but after seeing it done a lot ( not on my work ) and doing adhesion tests myself to answer a few questions I had I can say it does work , I leave it till the primer has almost mattes out then apply another coat , this method shown isn't one I use myself but as I said I've seen it done a lot and can say it does work
Thanks for the quick reply :) Also some good tips on how to place the IR lamp...i have a tendency to always put it up too close :)
lol weve all done that at some point
Thinner in the primer, it is called sealer. I still prime it first and sand the area down and do bodywork if there are. I’ll add only one layer of sealer right before base to cover the primer and bondo and give myself a uniform panel to paint
Nice one☺
+Jennifer Maxwell no problem thanks for watching
Grate vidoe
thanks
I used to flat it off by having with wet dry and soapy water does it make any difference by hand or with the DA
No as your going to re clear it anyway mate so wet or dry will make no odds
10:40 I always cut the sheet and pull it away from the job, as when you pull the sheet over the job you risk any dried flakey primer falling onto the wet paint, but that's just me lol
Hi i need to respray a patch on my door and it is with Met candy red ( fords) what colour primer do i use please
Would you of preferred to use the Iwata AZ4 Impact JUNIOR HTE 1.0mm Smart Repair Spray Gun for this job... if you had the gun back then
I probably would have used that mate yes I rarely use this sata mini gun
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks for the reply...Great Videos
Your welcome fella I always try to get back to all genuine questions dude
Nice efficient work...like ur thinking. One thing. 2k. No gloves?
what is the cause of a bunch of pinholes in the clear or under the clear after finishing the last coat of clearcoat and having the lamps on them? Is it because my lamps are way too close? I prepped everything properly before clearing. I dont understand why I keep having these in my jobs. I cant sand them out because they appear to be very deep
Hi yes they could be from too much build and then heat applied to soon , you could also be getting them from any oil or silicone contamination, try painting one without using lamps and if it still happens use some level it additive in your clear coat ( anti silicone ) it may help
if not forced drying is used (by means of lamps , air heater , etc) if you over-reduce the primer, the reducer within the mix will not affect the substrates after some time?
I mean that prep sanding marks can apear in the job after cca. 5 months? maybe too much reducer will somehow destabilize the chemicals in the substrates and primer above will copy any scratch from underneath ...
Is this possible? (maybe more pronunced with cheaper products) many many thanks
The mix is still only the same as a wet on wet mix mate so there should be no issues , we’re not putting to much product on and prep level
Is higher than usual so there’s no issues
Filler or Epoxy Primer? After sanding through clear/base/Primer down to bare metal, Which should I use for a quick deep scratch removal repair on a door panel?
Hi mate so the whole door isn’t bare metal then
Tony's Refinishing oh no. Not the entire door panel. Just about a 10” long key 🔑 scratch.
I would just use a tiny bit of etch mate to seal the metal then high build buddy
Great job Tony. How often do u have to change filters in the booth
ive only once changed the filters in our booth so far they last well
Thanks Tony. Really thinking of getting one
+Kopenhagen Swain we will have the review on the new model of this booth up very very soon which may also help
Great video mate......Keep up the good work...
thanks man be back very soon
I have a question I hope you will answer. I own a ‘99 Black C5 Corvette Coupe. When I purchased it privately back in 2010 I purchased it with a 3-1/2” scratch on the roof panel. I was told it happened when the previous owner took the roof panel off the car and placed it in the back of the car under the hatchback. It slipped out of his hands. The scratch to me looks like it is just in the Clear Coat. I can easily catch my finger nail inside of it. I have done body repair in the past with great results. My thought is to prep it and only try to fill the inside of the scratch overlapping the surface some with Clear Coat and after it drys really good lightly wet sand it until it blends with the rest of the surface. What are your thoughts on someone like myself doing this? I have no idea what Clear Coat to use on it. Was thinking of just having a paint shop mix some clear for me and put it in a rattle can to do the job. They usually do it where there is a button under the can you press to add the hardener. Your thoughts?
Hi yes that would be an option you could go down mate just Dan some clear into the mark let it dry flat it down and repeat till you’ve filled the issue area
@@TonysRefinishingTV what type of clear would you go with? Aren’t there a few different ones? I have no idea what clear GM used with the car from the factory.
If it was me I’d get some proper 2k clear for it
@@TonysRefinishingTV Thanks.
I have a sprinter van I would like painting in 2K, where do you work out of?
Hi I work out of my own shop passion 4 paint ltd in nantwich in Cheshire
Hi Tony...An Idea for a video is ...primer and sealer, whats the difference and how to make sealer from primer ... ??
thats a good idea mate and something il look into
I was told that a p3000 is not good for the new paint to adhere ... at most it is a 1500 ... but I have read that you confirm that membership with p3000 is good!
sorry mate this video was a while back id have to re watch to answer your query as im not sure which part your referring too
Tonys_Refinishing the question is .. with p3000 the paint adheres? or better not to go beyond 1500?
👌👍
U make it look so easy
Years of practice that’s all
@@TonysRefinishingTV your good man at your work. I have an interest in this kind of work. I'm am learning a lot watching 👍
Thanks buddy but I’m just a guy sharing his love for his job that’s all , hope the videos help man
@@TonysRefinishingTV 😂 u should have took the credit for it lol.
Lol nah I’m my own worst critic mate never blow my own trumpet when it comes to work the customers opinion of what I’ve done matters most to me
Hi bud, where did you get the velcro backing for your durablock that grips papers and disks?
was already on them mate lol
I always spray a fine mist of satin,or mat black on the primer to see the low areas,,,
its one way you can do it buddy yeah
I think this is my new spot repair Bible!! I've been struggling like crazy with this amd now I've realised the mistakes I've made chears man! and to save u some time in replying to something I wanna ask in the next video, u say u didn't use a 2k lacquer?? Wat was it u used please buddy
+Rich Cooper hi rich thanks for the comments buddy always great to know a video has helped someone makes all the effort worth while , it was a 2k clear but a smart repair clear rather than a standard 2k clear , they just tend to have less voc content , faster drying times ect too
How about a good temporary repair from a spray can?
That would be something i would be interested in ..
subscribed!!
Did you use enough hardner in the glaze? What the heck did you need a heat lamp for? Lol the filler was pretty much straight blue lol
time of year, weather and showing the use of the lamp in the bodyshop environment for those who dont know its uses and benefits
Over Catilized man it’s 2% by weight your body filler should be mixed at
If you read the comment above that’s why and it’s a test panel for video use not a customers car so it’s not like the filler was being mixed to spec for an informational video , it was more to show the spot repair process not the repair side and heat lamp useage
Cheers mate just doin my duties providing more input love the video
Hi, Tony, can you provide the necessary drying times if you dont have a heat lamp that you used on the video. Each time you used it, Please?
I can’t mate I’m afraid as it’s product and manufacturer dependant you should be able to get info like that for the product you use by searching for the price tds sheet
@@TonysRefinishingTV Ok, another thing, you remove the masking tapes while the paint is wet, correct?
And if
The edge masking yes that touches the blend area the rest could stay on
You blocked down to bare metal. But, you went with the Filler as opposed to a 2K Epoxy Primer or Etch. How do you determine whether to Filler or 2K Epoxy?
ok so if its small nomral primer larger area etch primer , restoration jobs resprays from bare metal then epoxy just not worth mixing n curing epoxy for small things like this at all
Tony's Refinishing Okay. Can I send you a video to your Instagram DM) of my issue to get your feedback on the best way to tackle my repair problem. I don’t want to sand down to bare metal my work area if I don’t have to. I have a can of Eastwood 2k Epoxy and a can of Eastwood 2k Urethane Primer Filler and I’m trying to avoid blistering where the old paint/3M Bondo Filler/Putty layers transition to the bare metal which has been covered with a 1k High Build Primer Filler.
It's like watching paint dry 😆
E J:
Ok👍👍👍
Quality work on this and other - whereabouts are you based as I could really do with your advice and help if possible please ? Thanks
Hey bud drop me an email to tonysrefinishing@gmail.com and I’ll do my best to help if I can
@@TonysRefinishingTV thank you so much - will email you now :)
No problem at all mate
What is the name of the indicator used?
For those of us without a DA sander and using an aerosol spraint can of paint can you answer the following:
1) When block sand sanding the primer with p400 do you extend past the areas you sanded with p1000 in the previous step?
2) Can you use 3M grey scotch brite scuff pad instead of the 3M p1000 grit pad you used with the DA sander?
3) Can you use the same 3M grey scotch brite pad instead of the p1000 grit paper you used to sand the filler and surrounding area?
Thanks
Hi dear master:will you exlain about blending paints and material is used as reducers and make a movie ?
Hi Tony, i have a cuestion, what is your opinion abbout the spraygun Walcom Carbon. Is better than Data or iwata?
Honestly mate couldn’t say as I’ve never used one yet
can i youse 2 paint over waterborne paint
Sorry I don’t understand the question
wished you were based in burton on trent cos i would be using your skills for certain
Lol your not far mate I did my motorbike test there , were only in nantwich
really are you on wattsapp.??
Sure am mate yes but you’ll have to drop me an email tonysrefinishing@gmail.com
@@TonysRefinishingTV no problem thank you
@@TonysRefinishingTV that done thank you
I keep getting the clear coat blend line rolling back as I'm polishing I've extended my clear coat area so I know it's not colour over spray landing in clear coat area any suggestions
honestly not an issue ive ever had tbh , if your polishing back the clear blend then maybe you may need to flat it abit less or get abit more material on there
Tony, if you was going to spray the whole panel after that small repair, would you still sand the whole panel with 3000 grit. Peter
Hi Peter if I was going to do it normally then a smart repair I’d have just p1000 the whole panel first rather than this process for smart repair
Tony's Refinishing thanks Peter
@@TonysRefinishingTV . Tony just to mention that the sanding grits for spraying is a minefield. Nearly all the sites I have looked on which are mainly usa recommend 400 grit, which I think is too course anyway. I asked a local body shop in Southampton UK what they used and they were the same as you p1000. Also looking for a used 3hp compressor
but the prices seems very strong on ebay. even for old ones. any where else to try? Peter
peter lock hi Peter drop me an email to tonysrefinishing@gmail.com il write you some sanding grit stages down and also send you some links compressor wise mate
@@TonysRefinishingTV, just to let you know I sent you my email address which you asked for. regarding sandpaper and air compressors. Peter
great stuff bro....I am passionate about bodywork and I enjoy watching your videos... I've got my first video slide of some work I've done...Bodywork, my passion by Fitzroy Warner... take a look...I can learn a lot from you bro... big up
thankyou very much man and ive just become your first subscriber buddy , glad the effort we put in on these videos is helping people like yourself and thanks for watching
Turn down music. Otherwise great!.
seems like to me its quicker and easier to clear the whole panel and probably a better and longer lasting job
Yeah he is right is would be a better longer lasting job and I’d certainly not blend a bonnet like this tbh , but these kind of repairs do have there place in the industry more than people think manufacturers especially do this daily in there factories
or do the paper fold back for soft edge good vid luv Tonys work ethics
thanks jon
How about a video on the exact same using a light coloured metallic paint and how to avoid patchy or blend marks. ?
It’s been a long time since I made this but I could revisit it mate as some point soon
If you want more views, change the title to how to wet sand, bondo, spray color and clear coat minor repairs. nice video thanks
Hi Donovan I like to keep the titles simple although yes it would push views we don’t call it bondo over here the videos are always titled as what they are , I appreciate
The input though
The problem I cannot solve is why does my 400 paper clog up straightaway when dry sanding my cured primer ???
It’s not cured enough
I was taught not to saturate the " damaged" area in panel wipe...Am i doing it wrong ?
lol i was never taught i learnt and ive never had a problem with it tbh , i think cleaning the surface of the repair is as important as cleaning the panel
There's absolutely no reason to waste your time blending the clear, just clear the entire fender.
Get ride of the music does my head in
Really? It does mine right out
The soft edge !!! Yes , good idea using folded tape. Feathering edges
Non-stop talking ....wow! And by the way, it would have been nice if you would have would have put a link to the second part of the video!
Sorry fella lol to much talking ?
Why not just clear the whole fender?
The whole point of a smart repair
Is to keep it small and Local to the damaged area , this was just an example of how to carry out a repair like this as usually on a repair carries out Like this the war would still be whole , if it was a usual job in our shop we would re clear the panel but this video was to demonstrate how to do a smart repair rather than a full body shop Repair
Overkill on the false edge masking and masking in general
to much is always better than not enough
Is there such thing as overkill when it comes to prep?
😅
Not to be rude ,but it’s a lot of wasted time ,da amd feather ,wipe it once amd
Prime ,to get a good result,all that isn’t required,even for a first class job
Just showing it the way we used to do it in a factory mate and it works , there’s always more than one way of doing something but this is how I do it
MY GOD HE"S FROM MANCHESTER
Lol nantwich in Cheshire bud
Dump the music
Some like the music some don’t my editing has changed alot since these videos
Just paint the whole fender
It’s a smart repair / blow in video
Thanks man hope it helped too
Very disappointed you just cut it out at the beginning and did not show the finished job!!! Shame on you
Certainly not a smart repair mate!!
Mick Hargroves bec to differ mate this happens in main dealers factories all day everyday
@@TonysRefinishingTV - True.
This MIGHT be one of the better repair videos on the internet BUT, I cannot understand half of what he is saying due to that heavy brogue. it is REALLY infuriating.
thanks for the first part and we all have different accents ect
As a murrican, I can understand him. He really could enunciate more clearly though.
Sorry guys I can only talk as I talk 😢
@@TonysRefinishingTV these people function on lower levels lol I understood every word
@@johnbean2596 ah you get used to comments that have absolutely nothing to do with the video itself tbh but im here to help people not fit inside an accent box
3000 is way too fine, 1500 max. No need to go any finer, 1500 polishes out nicely.