I’m the original owner of my 2001 Tundra SR5 V6. Bought it with 8 miles on it. I now have 280k miles and can tell you I towed a 16’ tandem axle landscape trailer for 15 years. I have rebuilt the top end of the motor, entire front, suspension, and brakes, did radiator work, and that’s it. And that’s over the course of 23 years. I also own several other vehicles, including a Cadillac I will tell you that this tundra is the best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
I got a little carried away with my 01 Tundra limited. I bought it back in February 2022 for $6250 with 213k miles. Was supposed to be my beater work truck because i didn't really think it would hold up for more than a year. The thing will not die. So since then ive slowly done preventative maintenance. Its to the point where theres nothing left for me to fix/maintain. It really does run like new. Im into my tundra roughly $18k total. New suspension, KO2s, transmission service, new alternator, radiator, timing belt, pulleys, etc. The works with all OEM parts. Took it on a trip from southern California to Wyoming and back. I was cruising by 3rd gen Tacomas that were struggling with a slight incline. I had at least 1,200lbs of payload going 85mph. Gone out wheelin in some dunes, off-road, etc. Thing is a tank. Probably got carried away by spending so much. But a new comparable truck is $1,100/mo not including insurance, and maintenance.
I’ve had my 02’ tundra for 5yrs and did the same maintenance repairs . Paid $5,800 for my truck and invested roughly $13k. Money well vested 🔧 No, new truck payments 👊🏽
Over all it's a better deal 😉 I have a 2002 Sequoia and have replaced things but over all I know the truck. I know what it can do and how far it can go.
I bought my 100 series in 2021 and put in $5k in new parts and did all the labor myself. Fast forward to 2024, and I have done nothing but oil changes. I have drove this thing from coast to coast with confidence.
I just dumped 6G in my 04 Tundra. A complete, top to bottom suspension rebuild. Everything. With a 3 1/2" lift, new Method wheels and 33" BFG All T/A's. Bilstein 6112's in the front, 5160's in the back. But I have paid it off 15 years ago. Good now for another 20 years. An 04 Toyota Extra Cab 4X4 SR5 Tundra was $33,000 right off of the showroom floor back in 2004.
@@208Tyler Because I want to Keep it. I Don't want an E Car. I Don't want a truck that shuts four cylinders off, plus the ignition at every stop light.
You're a suspensions what I want to do. The bill Stine 6112 and the 5160 in the back. I have a lot of weight in my Sequoia 1st Gen. Wondering how that suspension works when it's loaded down?
That's a suspension I'm looking at doing. The Goldstein 6112 in the front and the 51/60 in the rear. I have a 2002 Sequoia. But I have around 6100 lb of weight. Who is wondering about those 5160 in the rear if they would hold up. To that much weight!
Rockauto and doing the labor yourself makes owning old vehicles ridiculously cheap. I'm actually surprised that you had so many issues but that the cost was still mostly labor. People should factor-in the fact that insurance for older vehicles in many states is a lot cheaper too, so that basically pays for the worst-case scenario (first year of ownership) maintenance costs on an old car or truck, and we're not even counting the absence of a monthly payment. I spent about $3k refurbishing my 20-year-old truck including a whole engine replacement and top-of-the-line tires. The maintenance cost has been zero since then other than regular oil changes. I would bet that your maintenance cost drops way off as you get around to handling all of the "first-year of new owner who cares" maintenance items. After that you should be smooth sailing.
Oh ya. You save money a lot of money on insurance and interest and not having a payment. I struggle with the “yearly average” on my truck because I basically purchased it with issues - it needed a timing belt and lower ball joints by mileage. Should that just be included in the purchase price? Ya know, like I didn’t by the vehicle in a perfectly maintained state, otherwise my expenses go down dramatically. It’s really that first year that got me.
@@208Tyler Yep, sounds normal for an old truck. The ones that need zero work seem to end up on BAT and cost as much as when they were new. The upside of finding trucks that need maintenance is that you can be sure it gets done properly on your watch so you don't have to worry about it or take the seller's word for it. I would almost prefer to find a truck that is overdue for a timing belt so I can use that for negotiation and then do it myself.
Great video! I think it’s also important when considering the cost of driving an older vehicle, that you’re spending the same average maintenance WITHOUT the monthly payments. So, in relative terms, you’re saving ungodly amounts of money in the long term compared to those driving a new vehicle with similar maintenance fees.
Personally when It’s come to repair I go over for sample if one ball joins goes bad I replace all of the them, if one U-join goes back I replace all of their, never been on the side of the freeway. I drive a first gen 4Runner and a 1992 Toyota truck extra cab 4x4. Right now getting ready to drive to Baja from Northern California. I will be taking my first gen 4Runner. Great video. I don’t manage my expenses as good as you but I love my cars.
I have no problem putting money into a reliable rust free Toyota truck that I am very familiar with, and I am very familiar with my 1st generation Tundra. I bought my 2002 4x4 4.7L SR5 Tundra in 2003 when it had 17,000 miles and it's about to hit 200k so it's due for timing belt / water pump service once again and this service will also include new vacuum lines and hoses. Last year I replaced the tires, shocks, upper & lower control arms, ball joints, sway bar end links, the drive shaft, steering rack bushings, valve cover gaskets, I rebuilt the steering pump and replaced it's reservoir. The original radiator was replaced in 2017... I used OEM Toyota parts when available. The truck rides smooth, it handles great and I think it can go another 20 years with proper maintenance & care.
Very thought out and detailed analysis of annual or per mile vehicle maintenance cost. Some thoughts that arose for me on this is: 1) Does age of vehicle change the per-mile, or annual repair/maintenance values? - In other words, does the values go higher the older a vehicle gets? Is it linear or on a curve? 2) Labor costs: Are these national averages from the different sources quoted, including labor costs? If a DIY’er, should labor cost be factored in? People’s time has value still. Time is money so to speak. 3) Last thought or question that came to mind is, would an overlander have a higher cost 💲 of ownership in regards to repairs & maintenance? Being it is going to be harder on components and parts…More prone to breakage etc.
Thanks for commenting. 1) I’d imagine vehicles get more expensive to work on as they age, but, newer vehicles are more complicated to work on, so I’m not sure what’s the cheapest. 2) I don’t know the methods for research on these quoted numbers I would assume national averages across the US. 3) people who off-road will probably see more frequent maintenance, especially on suspension components like bushings, springs, or things like getting alignments.
I traded an 00 Dodge Dakota in on my 04 Tundra. The Dakota had 100K on it. The main seal was leaking, The suspension was toast. The Dodge Dealership loaned me a brand, new Extra cab Dakota while my truck was in the shop. I liked it.. Decided to test drive a Tundra.. Hahaha! How many Dodge Dakotas do you see on the road these days??
Currently working on a 1999 S10 that we got recently. Fuel pump, spark plugs, crankshaft sensor, shocks, brake calipers, and tires. The cost of parts aren't bad, but the time it took to fix an old rusted out truck is insanely long. I would definitely pay a shop for the next fix, I much rather spend my time on something else.
Just found a 2000 tundra in bovil with 140k, but with these used car prices plus the money dump afterwards scares me, terrible time to be looking for a rig
Okay.So I watch all of your videos.. I truly love all the content.. I've been following along for some time now.. I just wish you would make longer videos.. Regardless keep up the good work..
@@208Tyler .. I appreciate how detailed you always are.. Just longer videos would be awesome.. I just really enjoy your Videos.. And thanks for the reply so fast..
You actually own the truck. You do the needed maintenance now... Timing belts are designed to last for 98-100 thousand miles. You are just in a bad cycle based on your recent ownership. A lot of one time expense.
For the per mile data you forgot to consider the mileage your truck already has, so around $20k and i bet thr previous owner was no where near that even adding what you spent while owning it. So in thay regard its a very low cost maintenance vehicle.
@@208Tyler valid point. i just purchased tires for my 05, 4th gen 4runner two months ago. Went with 255/75/r17 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac RTs, which were on the more expensive side, at $280/tire, of which I got 5, plus install, totalling to around $1500. Price range for this size near me was $180 for the cheap tires, and $300 per tire for top of the line. Sourced from Tire Rack and Discount Tire. I’m blown away by the prices you were able to find for your truck. Side note, I am in LOVE with my new tires. They feel fantastic both on road and offroad. Quieter due to being AT. Better on center steering feel due to the center line tread blocks of the tire. Much better than the Falken Wildpeak MT I had before, even though those were 285/70/r17. Can’t speak for heavier mud personally, but my dad seems to think they’re almost as good for the slippier mud as our older tires.
@@evankirschenmann4653 ya- most name brand stuff will be $8-900 + for tires over 30 or 31”. I deal shopped and got rubitreks for way less though. That’s an intentional choice on my part. If I just went to a tire shop and got whatever tire, I’d be in the same boat
That’s not true. It’s Where to Next Overland and his 3 year maintenance cost was $11,340. 2024 4Runners start in the low 40’s ($700/mo payments). Owning older vehicles can be costly but is still significantly cheaper than owning new and they ultimately need maintenance as well
Really? I don’t know a lot of other people with other 20+ year old trucks getting into the 200k’s. I’ve had friends with both 5.2 Dodge Rams and 5.4 fords that faired much worse
I’m the original owner of my 2001 Tundra SR5 V6. Bought it with 8 miles on it. I now have 280k miles and can tell you I towed a 16’ tandem axle landscape trailer for 15 years. I have rebuilt the top end of the motor, entire front, suspension, and brakes, did radiator work, and that’s it. And that’s over the course of 23 years. I also own several other vehicles, including a Cadillac I will tell you that this tundra is the best vehicle I’ve ever owned.
I got a little carried away with my 01 Tundra limited. I bought it back in February 2022 for $6250 with 213k miles. Was supposed to be my beater work truck because i didn't really think it would hold up for more than a year. The thing will not die. So since then ive slowly done preventative maintenance. Its to the point where theres nothing left for me to fix/maintain. It really does run like new. Im into my tundra roughly $18k total. New suspension, KO2s, transmission service, new alternator, radiator, timing belt, pulleys, etc. The works with all OEM parts. Took it on a trip from southern California to Wyoming and back. I was cruising by 3rd gen Tacomas that were struggling with a slight incline. I had at least 1,200lbs of payload going 85mph. Gone out wheelin in some dunes, off-road, etc. Thing is a tank. Probably got carried away by spending so much. But a new comparable truck is $1,100/mo not including insurance, and maintenance.
I’ve had my 02’ tundra for 5yrs and did the same maintenance repairs . Paid $5,800 for my truck and invested roughly $13k. Money well vested 🔧
No, new truck payments 👊🏽
Over all it's a better deal 😉 I have a 2002 Sequoia and have replaced things but over all I know the truck. I know what it can do and how far it can go.
It’s definitely a better deal as a paid off vehicle! And ya, you get to know the vehicle really well.
I bought my 100 series in 2021 and put in $5k in new parts and did all the labor myself. Fast forward to 2024, and I have done nothing but oil changes. I have drove this thing from coast to coast with confidence.
That’s awesome!
More power to you, keeping your rig on the road is a better bang for your buck all day
I just dumped 6G in my 04 Tundra. A complete, top to bottom suspension rebuild. Everything. With a 3 1/2" lift, new Method wheels and 33" BFG All T/A's. Bilstein 6112's in the front, 5160's in the back. But I have paid it off 15 years ago. Good now for another 20 years. An 04 Toyota Extra Cab 4X4 SR5
Tundra was $33,000 right off of the showroom floor back in 2004.
Sounds like a great pickup!
@@208Tyler Because I want to Keep it. I Don't want an E Car. I Don't want a truck that shuts four cylinders off, plus the ignition at every stop light.
@@208Tyler Buy a new Jeep Wrangler...or A Rubicon. Compare your annual costs/plus your monthly payments.
You're a suspensions what I want to do. The bill Stine 6112 and the 5160 in the back. I have a lot of weight in my Sequoia 1st Gen. Wondering how that suspension works when it's loaded down?
That's a suspension I'm looking at doing. The Goldstein 6112 in the front and the 51/60 in the rear.
I have a 2002 Sequoia. But I have around 6100 lb of weight. Who is wondering about those 5160 in the rear if they would hold up. To that much weight!
Rockauto and doing the labor yourself makes owning old vehicles ridiculously cheap. I'm actually surprised that you had so many issues but that the cost was still mostly labor. People should factor-in the fact that insurance for older vehicles in many states is a lot cheaper too, so that basically pays for the worst-case scenario (first year of ownership) maintenance costs on an old car or truck, and we're not even counting the absence of a monthly payment. I spent about $3k refurbishing my 20-year-old truck including a whole engine replacement and top-of-the-line tires. The maintenance cost has been zero since then other than regular oil changes. I would bet that your maintenance cost drops way off as you get around to handling all of the "first-year of new owner who cares" maintenance items. After that you should be smooth sailing.
Oh ya. You save money a lot of money on insurance and interest and not having a payment.
I struggle with the “yearly average” on my truck because I basically purchased it with issues - it needed a timing belt and lower ball joints by mileage. Should that just be included in the purchase price? Ya know, like I didn’t by the vehicle in a perfectly maintained state, otherwise my expenses go down dramatically. It’s really that first year that got me.
@@208Tyler Yep, sounds normal for an old truck. The ones that need zero work seem to end up on BAT and cost as much as when they were new. The upside of finding trucks that need maintenance is that you can be sure it gets done properly on your watch so you don't have to worry about it or take the seller's word for it. I would almost prefer to find a truck that is overdue for a timing belt so I can use that for negotiation and then do it myself.
@@208Tyler I always baseline older used vehicles and count that into purchase price
Great video! I think it’s also important when considering the cost of driving an older vehicle, that you’re spending the same average maintenance WITHOUT the monthly payments. So, in relative terms, you’re saving ungodly amounts of money in the long term compared to those driving a new vehicle with similar maintenance fees.
Yes! Absolutely. I would not take on a car payment and justify it by saving on maintenance compared to what my Toyota costs.
Personally when It’s come to repair I go over for sample if one ball joins goes bad I replace all of the them, if one U-join goes back I replace all of their, never been on the side of the freeway. I drive a first gen 4Runner and a 1992 Toyota truck extra cab 4x4. Right now getting ready to drive to Baja from Northern California. I will be taking my first gen 4Runner. Great video. I don’t manage my expenses as good as you but I love my cars.
That’s a good way to be!
I have no problem putting money into a reliable rust free Toyota truck that I am very familiar with, and I am very familiar with my 1st generation Tundra. I bought my 2002 4x4 4.7L SR5 Tundra in 2003 when it had 17,000 miles and it's about to hit 200k so it's due for timing belt / water pump service once again and this service will also include new vacuum lines and hoses.
Last year I replaced the tires, shocks, upper & lower control arms, ball joints, sway bar end links, the drive shaft, steering rack bushings, valve cover gaskets, I rebuilt the steering pump and replaced it's reservoir. The original radiator was replaced in 2017... I used OEM Toyota parts when available. The truck rides smooth, it handles great and I think it can go another 20 years with proper maintenance & care.
That’s great! These pickups are awesome
I bought my 04 brand new in 2004. 165,000 miles. Always taken care of. You bought yours right at the time when it truly needed everything refreshed.
Fumoto drain valve for oil changes. Makes it clean and easy. Supertech full synthetic is $20 for 5 quarts. Joker for OEM oil filters.
Love the Fumoto
Thank you very much for your videos. I bought my Tundra new in 2001. It’s time for an overhaul.
Sweet!
Very thought out and detailed analysis of annual or per mile vehicle maintenance cost. Some thoughts that arose for me on this is:
1) Does age of vehicle change the per-mile, or annual repair/maintenance values? - In other words, does the values go higher the older a vehicle gets? Is it linear or on a curve?
2) Labor costs: Are these national averages from the different sources quoted, including labor costs? If a DIY’er, should labor cost be factored in? People’s time has value still. Time is money so to speak.
3) Last thought or question that came to mind is, would an overlander have a higher cost 💲 of ownership in regards to repairs & maintenance? Being it is going to be harder on components and parts…More prone to breakage etc.
Thanks for commenting.
1) I’d imagine vehicles get more expensive to work on as they age, but, newer vehicles are more complicated to work on, so I’m not sure what’s the cheapest.
2) I don’t know the methods for research on these quoted numbers I would assume national averages across the US.
3) people who off-road will probably see more frequent maintenance, especially on suspension components like bushings, springs, or things like getting alignments.
Subscribed. Greetings from an old Nissan truck owner from Iowa. 😉
These trucks are so bad ass😎, I just changed the oil in one of our tundras, 6.6 quarts 😬
Ya it's alot bigger oil change than when I had my V6 vehicles haha
I traded an 00 Dodge Dakota in on my 04 Tundra. The Dakota had 100K on it. The main seal was leaking, The suspension was toast. The Dodge Dealership loaned me a brand, new Extra cab Dakota while my truck was in the shop. I liked it.. Decided to test drive a Tundra.. Hahaha! How many Dodge Dakotas do you see on the road these days??
Hardly any dakotas on the road! Haha
Currently working on a 1999 S10 that we got recently. Fuel pump, spark plugs, crankshaft sensor, shocks, brake calipers, and tires. The cost of parts aren't bad, but the time it took to fix an old rusted out truck is insanely long. I would definitely pay a shop for the next fix, I much rather spend my time on something else.
Just found a 2000 tundra in bovil with 140k, but with these used car prices plus the money dump afterwards scares me, terrible time to be looking for a rig
Okay.So I watch all of your videos.. I truly love all the content.. I've been following along for some time now.. I just wish you would make longer videos.. Regardless keep up the good work..
Thanks! For longer videos, so you just want more info per video? More depth?
@@208Tyler .. I appreciate how detailed you always are.. Just longer videos would be awesome.. I just really enjoy your Videos.. And thanks for the reply so fast..
Where’d you get that 2uz-fe sweatshirt
I designed it. You can purchase one here: tr.ee/-2PcskX7qT
You actually own the truck. You do the needed maintenance now... Timing belts are designed to last for 98-100 thousand miles. You are just in a bad cycle based on your recent ownership. A lot of one time expense.
Correct! That's why I annualized some of those large expenses, to reflect the value and long term-nature that comes with those big repairs
Where is your hoodie from?
I design them. You can purchase one here: tr.ee/-2PcskX7qT
You're still way ahead of someone making payments on a new truck.
Of course! That’s a huge money-saver
For the per mile data you forgot to consider the mileage your truck already has, so around $20k and i bet thr previous owner was no where near that even adding what you spent while owning it. So in thay regard its a very low cost maintenance vehicle.
Totally! That’s entirely possible. It’s close to average, and quite likely under if he under maintained it
You have just bought into a truck that needs to be upgraded. Compare your costs now, to next year.
5k over 3 years of owning my 2006
That's less than three new car payments.
No way you can get half decent name brand tires for less than $700 these days
That completely depends on tire size and type. 29” Street tires are way cheaper than $700, 35” mud terrains not so much
@@208Tyler valid point. i just purchased tires for my 05, 4th gen 4runner two months ago. Went with 255/75/r17 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac RTs, which were on the more expensive side, at $280/tire, of which I got 5, plus install, totalling to around $1500. Price range for this size near me was $180 for the cheap tires, and $300 per tire for top of the line. Sourced from Tire Rack and Discount Tire. I’m blown away by the prices you were able to find for your truck.
Side note, I am in LOVE with my new tires. They feel fantastic both on road and offroad. Quieter due to being AT. Better on center steering feel due to the center line tread blocks of the tire. Much better than the Falken Wildpeak MT I had before, even though those were 285/70/r17. Can’t speak for heavier mud personally, but my dad seems to think they’re almost as good for the slippier mud as our older tires.
@@evankirschenmann4653 ya- most name brand stuff will be $8-900 + for tires over 30 or 31”. I deal shopped and got rubitreks for way less though. That’s an intentional choice on my part. If I just went to a tire shop and got whatever tire, I’d be in the same boat
@@208Tyler what places were you able to find good deals at?
@@evankirschenmann4653 discount tire sometimes has rebates. These rubitreks I found on amazon and then bought direct from seller
A guy listed what maintenance and repairs cost him on his LX 470 and adding up all the expenses it's more expensive than a brand new 5th gen 4Runner.
Video? Link?
That’s not true. It’s Where to Next Overland and his 3 year maintenance cost was $11,340. 2024 4Runners start in the low 40’s ($700/mo payments). Owning older vehicles can be costly but is still significantly cheaper than owning new and they ultimately need maintenance as well
These old tundras last a long time but I have found out they are higher maintenance than most trucks
Really? I don’t know a lot of other people with other 20+ year old trucks getting into the 200k’s. I’ve had friends with both 5.2 Dodge Rams and 5.4 fords that faired much worse