This is really well done. You know your stuff more than most people online and you articulatd it well. I didn't notice a single flaw in your information so I will share this video. I run factory steelies and pizza cutters on my F-150, for the same reasons even though Methods would get me 500 lbs of payload.
there's not a lot of channels out there that give anything more than surface level info imo. I really appreciate the depth you go into in your videos, really glad I found your channel man
I really appreciate your subtle more of a OEM+ approach into modding. I went with 5100 with just a 1.75 inch lift on my 2003 GX470 kept my factory rear airbags a teeny bit more squat on rear and on 4th Gen 4Runner Sport/OEM Prado wheels was happy with my results along with new CV’s, Lower Ball joints it transformed my truck.
I had wide all terrains BFG'S I think they were 31" i replaced them with pizza cutters 255-80-16 on stock wheels and immediately noticed it was easier to steer so that tells me the steering components are going to last longer not working so hard.
Thanks for sharing the good information. Another off road bonus to stock wheel width is if you do go with a wider tire, the stock wheel will keep it on the bead better at lower pressures than a wider wheel can. As long as the wider wheel has the same bead as stock.. And like you'd mentioned, wheel spacers may be needed to prevent rub. If somebody wanted to retain the stock look, but want better bead hold at low pressures (I don't know if this compromises wheel integrity lol) some people have welded in a bead lip inside the rim to keep the tire on the bead better. If you're in the rocks, put a tire/wheel reference mark on to allow you to see if the tire spins on the rim. Awesome channel and content! Thanks again for helping us out.
I've had my 285/75/r16s on stock wheels as low as 15 psi with no issues with losing the bead , in some pretty ugly terrain. I've not tried lower than that, but I haven't had the need. I think if you are going much lower than that, you probably just need to invest in beadlock wheels. My rule of thumb is not to go lower psi than wheel size without beadlocks, and so far, it has kept me out of trouble.
Got to love the OEM starfish! I run 2nd gen OEM TRD Rock Warrior wheels on mine, and they are probably THE best wheels ive ever run. Super strong, and about 10lbs lighter than the aftermarket wheels (ICON) they replaced. Toyota makes some great stuff.
I agree completely - my GMC Canyon has one size up only KO2 tyres and OEM wheels. In fact, the vehicle is going to be the GMC Canyon version of your Tundra - Bilstein 5100s, levelled and lifted minimally, and largely stock. Skiiddies of course. I want to have flex and travel, but want to keep it low for stability and efficiency. This is a daily or mostly daily driver, and is going to be used for long haul travel so doing anything more extreme than an Aussie style touring rig is right out. Minimal change while being effective is the best as far as I am concerned for my use case.
I have the same objective with my Colorado Z71 CCLB. All stock Daily, haul music gear , grandkids .,Previous owner moved up to 265/70/17, doubt I’ll ever go bigger
My 94 Land Cruiser has the OEM wheels with 2.5” OME lift. Running 295/75/16. Looks and operates real nice. Just bought a 05 tundra and thinking about doing the same set up.
I bought the wheels you have, powder coated them color of truck for less than $75 total per wheel for my Tacoma. Put 235/85R16 on them with retread aggressive tires and throw them on in the winter and spring mud season. They stick out 11mm more than stock Tacoma.
Bought my 4runner for a steal, but it had 20inch rims and it rode like crap so I got a pair of SCS F5 17X8.5 -10 offset 21lb per rim. That's pretty friggin lite and it rides sooo much better now!
I found on my tacoma which has the same wheels, although they show their age slight peeling discoloration w/ road tires. You raise a great point, they are great. Even if not so pretty. Further i did in fact purchase a set of steelies on market place for a great price so i can install A/Ts for weekend fun. It feels good not to have spent ridiculous money on wheels and tires for weekend getaways. The upside is, either way i have tires to run on while i save up for the ever increasing pricing on my next set of tires as they wear down.
My stock Outlander had a 20 inch tire that weighted a TON. Moving down to a smaller wheel and larger tire was actually a small performance gain in my case. Definitely not always the case.
I firmly believe the 5th gen 4Runner Trail/TRD Offroad wheels are the best OEM wheel. You get a bit more offset at +15mm. Most OE wheels are around 25 or 30. On top of that you get a 17x7.5 vs most OE wheels being a 7" wide. And speaking of valve stem protection, these wheels have some of the best protection on any wheel I've seen. The valve stem is nearly fully encapsulated by aluminum all the way to the end. That does make it a slight pain to get an air chuck on it, but it's not bad. The last plus for me is subjective. I personally think they look amazing. Definitely the best looking OE Toyota wheel.
@208Tyler the width and offset drew me to them. The price is whatever someone will let them go for on Marketplace, but usually pretty fairly priced. Got mine brand new (seller had less than 20 miles on them) for $800 with the OE tires. Sold the tires for $400 so those wheels were only $400. Really can't beat that.
I have the same truck in a 2003 model with stock wheels. They have excellent build quality, very little runout and look better in my opinion. I'm not changing to some tacky looking aftermarket crap.
I agree stock is better. I have an 02 2wd Chevy Silverado 1500. It has the upgraded trim package with a cast wheel. I want to find the basic Chevy steel wheels, my current wheels are starting to leak are thru the casting. I love the look of them but over 20 years old I will go with something better to hold air, unless I might be able to coat the inside of the wheels with epoxy to help hold air.
Do you have any insight on 18" Sequoia wheels? I just purchased an '02 Tundra Limited Access Cab 4WD and it has 265/65/18 Michelins on 18" Sequoia wheels. Newly rebuilt transmission, too. :) It's my daily driver, but I do require 4WD sometimes. My photography job takes me to some remote locations with crappy, washed-out dirt roads and taller A/Ts would be useful. I'm considering the 1" puck to level the front. The truck came with a new set of struts (stock), stock brakes, new CV axles, driveshaft carrier bearing and a few other bits and pieces. Should I sell the stock parts and the Sequoia wheels and use the money for 16" wheels and taller struts or keep it all and just work with what I have? (I will rarely tow. If I keep the 18" wheels, will I need to upgrade to bigger brakes?)
In regards to the R50 pathfinder and rims. Am i better off to use 1" wheel spacers with stock rims and a 30.5 tire bcus of the lower spring mount on the struts?
I went from a 17 to a 16 inch wheel on my 2019 Toyota Tacoma so I could have more sidewall but keep the ride-height nearly the same. 1st Gen tacomas/tundras look really good with the stock wheels, but 3rd gen tacos just don't cut it :(
I ended up getting negative offset wheels for my pathfinder simply because I couldn't actually run tire chains and clear the strut perch in the front. Love the idea of those bead-grip or screw in studs on that other brand. Otherwise I agree with you. If the factory wheels look decent and there isn't a mechanical reason to change them, then you might as well stick with what it was designed for.
I used to have konigs on my 4runner, they were about 21lbs a wheel, stock was 27lbs, thats 6lbs a wheel, a total of 24 lbs lost, also I had sl tires instead of e's and with 33's "285/70 r17" was still 2lbs lighter per tire than what came with it stock, so another 8lbs totaling a whopping 32lbs of ROTATIONAL mass. I got between 17 city and in some cases 20 highway on a v6 4x4 from 96. WEIGHT DOES MATTER especially when it comes to rotating mass. Whilst I agree the stock wheels are great, I think its wheels, tires and PRICE that have to be considered. I got my wheels for 400 bucks off marketplace and just transferred the tires off of the 4th gen wheels I had on before, which is peanuts. My friends who upgraded to 33's in load range e saw a 2-3mpg DROP with the added weight of 33's in that load range stock wheels, mainly because they're like 10lbs heavier a tire, but they've also lasted them well over 80k miles on other cars they own. Its just a matter of what you value and what you like more at the end of the day, and I respect that because on my tundra I agree, the stock wheels fit the truck and I think they need to stay unless I find a good marketplace deal that actually looks the part.
Do you have stock suspension height also? On my 2002 Sequoia I'm still running all stock. Buy overland gear is weighing down the back ... I'm right at the top of payload right now. I'm looking to get 17in wheels just so I can upgrade the brakes from 16. Eventually I just 2 inch lift...
Tyler, are you using spacers at the time of this filming? I’m running OME 2885s. My 265/75s on starfish rubbed the OEM UCA. I have been using 1” spacers. After swapping to TC UCAs, I now have 1.5” gap between tire and UCA. I’m considering removing the spacer. Thoughts?
Stock wheels are much better than 90% of the aftermarket wheels people replace them with: - 16 or 17's are cheaper tires than 20's of the same height and more common and plentiful. - 16 or 17's have more sidewall than the 20" "upgraded" low profile tires a lot of people people are buying. - Steel wheels bend where aluminum will crack. - Pizza cutters work well with stock wheels, weigh less, clear taller tires without modification, and for the most common terrain types including average offroad and rock crawling, actually perform better. Sand / deep mud may be the exception, but I bet it's less than most people think. Your always better going an inch taller than an inch wider.
Stock wheels are better because they work well with pizza cutters and have less offset and therefor less likely to rub because scrub clearance is better with less offset, valve stems are not really a problem unless. When I go 17 inch wheels on my truck I will buy junkyard OEM
265 75 r 16 100ly work great on my 06 xcab trd4x4 most gen one new bed do not realize TRD have more clearance than.reg gen one also 4 doors aredime a dozen too long forost off-road driving Nevada is true test ground
This is really well done. You know your stuff more than most people online and you articulatd it well. I didn't notice a single flaw in your information so I will share this video. I run factory steelies and pizza cutters on my F-150, for the same reasons even though Methods would get me 500 lbs of payload.
Thank you! I really appreciate it. Factory steelies are dope! I wanted some for a long time and still could end up with a set.
there's not a lot of channels out there that give anything more than surface level info imo. I really appreciate the depth you go into in your videos, really glad I found your channel man
Thank you! That’s a high compliment!
I really appreciate your subtle more of a OEM+ approach into modding. I went with 5100 with just a 1.75 inch lift on my 2003 GX470 kept my factory rear airbags a teeny bit more squat on rear and on 4th Gen 4Runner Sport/OEM Prado wheels was happy with my results along with new CV’s, Lower Ball joints it transformed my truck.
That’s awesome! Sounds like a good rig.
I just bought a 2003 Tundra 4.7 side step and your channel has helped me be so aware of what to look for on the truck.
Nice truck, looking at maybe getting one myself for camping. Always like the look of the early Tundras and the wheels fit the truck like a glove.
I had wide all terrains BFG'S I think they were 31" i replaced them with pizza cutters 255-80-16 on stock wheels and immediately noticed it was easier to steer so that tells me the steering components are going to last longer not working so hard.
Yup! Wide wheels and tires are gonna make your vehicle work harder to steer and control the extra weight.
Thanks for sharing the good information. Another off road bonus to stock wheel width is if you do go with a wider tire, the stock wheel will keep it on the bead better at lower pressures than a wider wheel can. As long as the wider wheel has the same bead as stock.. And like you'd mentioned, wheel spacers may be needed to prevent rub. If somebody wanted to retain the stock look, but want better bead hold at low pressures (I don't know if this compromises wheel integrity lol) some people have welded in a bead lip inside the rim to keep the tire on the bead better. If you're in the rocks, put a tire/wheel reference mark on to allow you to see if the tire spins on the rim. Awesome channel and content! Thanks again for helping us out.
Good stuff! I’ve heard some of the theory behind wheel width vs tire width, thanks for the refresher. Thanks for commenting
I've had my 285/75/r16s on stock wheels as low as 15 psi with no issues with losing the bead , in some pretty ugly terrain. I've not tried lower than that, but I haven't had the need. I think if you are going much lower than that, you probably just need to invest in beadlock wheels. My rule of thumb is not to go lower psi than wheel size without beadlocks, and so far, it has kept me out of trouble.
Got to love the OEM starfish! I run 2nd gen OEM TRD Rock Warrior wheels on mine, and they are probably THE best wheels ive ever run. Super strong, and about 10lbs lighter than the aftermarket wheels (ICON) they replaced. Toyota makes some great stuff.
You and your 5 lug swap. Haha. Those are great looking wheels. One of favorite Toyota OEM’s
Counter Point: I want my truck to be beautiful as well as functional. Good video!
Looks will always be subjective. Thanks!
I agree completely - my GMC Canyon has one size up only KO2 tyres and OEM wheels. In fact, the vehicle is going to be the GMC Canyon version of your Tundra - Bilstein 5100s, levelled and lifted minimally, and largely stock. Skiiddies of course. I want to have flex and travel, but want to keep it low for stability and efficiency. This is a daily or mostly daily driver, and is going to be used for long haul travel so doing anything more extreme than an Aussie style touring rig is right out. Minimal change while being effective is the best as far as I am concerned for my use case.
Yup! Minimal modifications if possible!
I have the same objective with my Colorado Z71 CCLB. All
stock
Daily, haul music gear , grandkids .,Previous owner moved up to 265/70/17, doubt I’ll ever go bigger
This is just common sense and I'm glad you spelled it out. Nice work!
My 94 Land Cruiser has the OEM wheels with 2.5” OME lift. Running 295/75/16. Looks and operates real nice.
Just bought a 05 tundra and thinking about doing the same set up.
I bought the wheels you have, powder coated them color of truck for less than $75 total per wheel for my Tacoma. Put 235/85R16 on them with retread aggressive tires and throw them on in the winter and spring mud season. They stick out 11mm more than stock Tacoma.
Bought my 4runner for a steal, but it had 20inch rims and it rode like crap so I got a pair of SCS F5 17X8.5 -10 offset 21lb per rim. That's pretty friggin lite and it rides sooo much better now!
Eewwwww... 20's haha. That is pretty darn light! Glad you like em
I found on my tacoma which has the same wheels, although they show their age slight peeling discoloration w/ road tires. You raise a great point, they are great. Even if not so pretty. Further i did in fact purchase a set of steelies on market place for a great price so i can install A/Ts for weekend fun. It feels good not to have spent ridiculous money on wheels and tires for weekend getaways. The upside is, either way i have tires to run on while i save up for the ever increasing pricing on my next set of tires as they wear down.
Yup! Keeping stock wheels is a great way to save money without really missing out on much performance!
My stock Outlander had a 20 inch tire that weighted a TON. Moving down to a smaller wheel and larger tire was actually a small performance gain in my case. Definitely not always the case.
Starfish 4 Life!
I firmly believe the 5th gen 4Runner Trail/TRD Offroad wheels are the best OEM wheel. You get a bit more offset at +15mm. Most OE wheels are around 25 or 30. On top of that you get a 17x7.5 vs most OE wheels being a 7" wide. And speaking of valve stem protection, these wheels have some of the best protection on any wheel I've seen. The valve stem is nearly fully encapsulated by aluminum all the way to the end. That does make it a slight pain to get an air chuck on it, but it's not bad. The last plus for me is subjective. I personally think they look amazing. Definitely the best looking OE Toyota wheel.
I haven’t looked too closely at those, but on paper that sounds about perfect. Especially being a little wider than 7” would be nice.
@208Tyler the width and offset drew me to them. The price is whatever someone will let them go for on Marketplace, but usually pretty fairly priced. Got mine brand new (seller had less than 20 miles on them) for $800 with the OE tires. Sold the tires for $400 so those wheels were only $400. Really can't beat that.
I have the same truck in a 2003 model with stock wheels. They have excellent build quality, very little runout and look better in my opinion. I'm not changing to some tacky looking aftermarket crap.
What's the biggest tires I can fit without lifting the truck, that don't rub
I just purchased 16x8 Mud Trad wheels thinking I would be okay with 235/85r16’s. Now im worried the rims will be too wide.
I agree stock is better. I have an 02 2wd Chevy Silverado 1500. It has the upgraded trim package with a cast wheel. I want to find the basic Chevy steel wheels, my current wheels are starting to leak are thru the casting. I love the look of them but over 20 years old I will go with something better to hold air, unless I might be able to coat the inside of the wheels with epoxy to help hold air.
I've been putting 35's on 16 inch wheels for almost 20 years
Do you have any insight on 18" Sequoia wheels? I just purchased an '02 Tundra Limited Access Cab 4WD and it has 265/65/18 Michelins on 18" Sequoia wheels. Newly rebuilt transmission, too. :)
It's my daily driver, but I do require 4WD sometimes. My photography job takes me to some remote locations with crappy, washed-out dirt roads and taller A/Ts would be useful.
I'm considering the 1" puck to level the front. The truck came with a new set of struts (stock), stock brakes, new CV axles, driveshaft carrier bearing and a few other bits and pieces. Should I sell the stock parts and the Sequoia wheels and use the money for 16" wheels and taller struts or keep it all and just work with what I have? (I will rarely tow. If I keep the 18" wheels, will I need to upgrade to bigger brakes?)
In regards to the R50 pathfinder and rims. Am i better off to use 1" wheel spacers with stock rims and a 30.5 tire bcus of the lower spring mount on the struts?
On a 30.5 tire you don’t need anything special. It’s not tall enough to hit the strut. Otherwise go for 3.75 backspace if you’re going taller than 31”
ok Thankx again. @@208Tyler
You might want to buy a set of Colby valve stems. Could get you out of a bind.
Ya, those would be a great addition
I did not know the oem was that light!
I went from a 17 to a 16 inch wheel on my 2019 Toyota Tacoma so I could have more sidewall but keep the ride-height nearly the same. 1st Gen tacomas/tundras look really good with the stock wheels, but 3rd gen tacos just don't cut it :(
More sidewall rocks! Bummer you had to swap em out, but I probably would’ve done the same!
Good video Tyler. We would like to send our pod lights for getting showcased? Are you open to doing this stuff?
255/85r16s on my Tacoma before i sold it on OEM wheels looked so good.
For sure, I bet they did!
I ended up getting negative offset wheels for my pathfinder simply because I couldn't actually run tire chains and clear the strut perch in the front. Love the idea of those bead-grip or screw in studs on that other brand.
Otherwise I agree with you. If the factory wheels look decent and there isn't a mechanical reason to change them, then you might as well stick with what it was designed for.
Ya, I had to do the same thing on my Pathfinder and get aftermarket wheels.
I used to have konigs on my 4runner, they were about 21lbs a wheel, stock was 27lbs, thats 6lbs a wheel, a total of 24 lbs lost, also I had sl tires instead of e's and with 33's "285/70 r17" was still 2lbs lighter per tire than what came with it stock, so another 8lbs totaling a whopping 32lbs of ROTATIONAL mass. I got between 17 city and in some cases 20 highway on a v6 4x4 from 96. WEIGHT DOES MATTER especially when it comes to rotating mass. Whilst I agree the stock wheels are great, I think its wheels, tires and PRICE that have to be considered. I got my wheels for 400 bucks off marketplace and just transferred the tires off of the 4th gen wheels I had on before, which is peanuts. My friends who upgraded to 33's in load range e saw a 2-3mpg DROP with the added weight of 33's in that load range stock wheels, mainly because they're like 10lbs heavier a tire, but they've also lasted them well over 80k miles on other cars they own. Its just a matter of what you value and what you like more at the end of the day, and I respect that because on my tundra I agree, the stock wheels fit the truck and I think they need to stay unless I find a good marketplace deal that actually looks the part.
Do you have stock suspension height also?
On my 2002 Sequoia I'm still running all stock. Buy overland gear is weighing down the back ... I'm right at the top of payload right now. I'm looking to get 17in wheels just so I can upgrade the brakes from 16. Eventually I just 2 inch lift...
I have upgraded the suspension a little to 5100’s, OME 2885’s and Icon AAL.
Is the 04 double cab SR5 TRD 2 x 4 V8 16" or 17"
I think they’re mostly 17” wheels
Tyler, are you using spacers at the time of this filming? I’m running OME 2885s. My 265/75s on starfish rubbed the OEM UCA. I have been using 1” spacers. After swapping to TC UCAs, I now have 1.5” gap between tire and UCA. I’m considering removing the spacer. Thoughts?
No, I am not. It sounds to me, based on the math, that you would be fine without the spacer if you have that much clearance with the TC arms
This is why i love my stock Rock warrior wheels... lol
Those wheels are so cool!
We have Benedict Cumberpatch at home
Also, thank you. This some good content.
Stock wheels are much better than 90% of the aftermarket wheels people replace them with:
- 16 or 17's are cheaper tires than 20's of the same height and more common and plentiful.
- 16 or 17's have more sidewall than the 20" "upgraded" low profile tires a lot of people people are buying.
- Steel wheels bend where aluminum will crack.
- Pizza cutters work well with stock wheels, weigh less, clear taller tires without modification, and for the most common terrain types including average offroad and rock crawling, actually perform better. Sand / deep mud may be the exception, but I bet it's less than most people think. Your always better going an inch taller than an inch wider.
Sorry but I can't get that "poke" without spacers on stock wheels. Maybe on a performance car but not a truck.
If you don’t need the poke, there’s not much advantage to adding wheel spacers
Stock wheels are better because they work well with pizza cutters and have less offset and therefor less likely to rub because scrub clearance is better with less offset, valve stems are not really a problem unless. When I go 17 inch wheels on my truck I will buy junkyard OEM
I got rid of these wheels because my center caps kept getting stolen. 🤦♂️
On 20 year old wheels!? That’s ridiculous
So true :)
I have oem wheels just 2022 wheels on a 98🤣
265 75 r 16 100ly work great on my 06 xcab trd4x4 most gen one new bed do not realize TRD have more clearance than.reg gen one also 4 doors aredime a dozen too long forost off-road driving Nevada is true test ground
What?
SCS F5 is 16 pounds
www.stealthcustomseries.com/products/f5
18 lbs in my bolt pattern and comparable size. That's a substantial weight reduction!
Many of the aftermarket wheels are ugly and busy looking.
Gave mines away for free
Keeping stock wheels is lame as hell. Imagine living in a world where you leave stock wheels
On. Lame
What’s lame about it?