Fantastic video, thanks Steven! Another way to save film is to tape a piece of exposed/discarded film onto the end of each bulk loaded film to save the frames that are otherwise lost when loading the film into your camera. It can save you around 3-4 pictures per roll!
Fabulous idea! I have been using this method successfully and found a few things. First, To avoid getting sweaty in the changing bag, I use nitrile rubber gloves. They are thin enough to still do the task. Second, cutting film in the bag squarely is almost impossible. I modified my scissors with a bit of an old credit card cut to the width of the film and taped onto the blade so I can feel that the film is at right angles to the cutting action. And third, I found that common 3M Invisible Scotch tape works just fine to secure the film to the leader stub. However, I do wind those last couple of frames gently and if I get resistance, I do not force it. Even with auto winding cameras from Nikon and Canon, the film has stayed attached. I also tried re-using Kodak cassettes and have been successful in getting the film to load 36 exposures. I used Vision 3 500T and Kentmere film stocks. Perhaps with other stocks this won't work.
UPDATE: I found that the scissors/plastic card attachment needed reinforcement so I super glued a triangular strip stock of wood to shore up the card and increase the attachment stability. I had a piece of balsa wood lying around and carved off a short section of square strip stock to make the piece. Now, it works really well.
if you have access to a 3D printing service there is a tool that allows the 400ft roll on one side and allows you to hand wind to a 100 ft core. That will fit into your bulk loader.
The way you do it requires a hand cocking shutter camera, i have destroy an electronic camera, thankfully chip. I roll bulk film in canisters in darkroom having always exactly 36 poses, I have a piece of wood longer than a 36 poses film and I have screw on top 2 blades one left and one right exactly 36 poses long, i don't remember how long is in cm , first i secured the edge of the film in the right blade with a clip and unroll the film till the other blade and there i cut it with scissor , then i hold the film always the emulsion side at my thumb either my left hand or the. Right always emulsion at my thumb, and roll it by hand in the canister, but now you gave me a good idea to roll it inside an old no working camera thank you
What a great video. I strongly agree with you on the amount of film loaded so it will fit on the roller. Too much film in the canister (depending on film and thickness) may create problems of putting too much tension of the camera when pulling the film. When I first started loading my own film, if I loaded it too tight, the film sometimes snaps inside, and I am not aware of it and may lose shots. I try to avoid the bag and use a bathroom as a dark room. I have large hands and it is difficult to use a black bag.
Very clever! I love it!! You could probably take off the camera back of your loader camera for good. I also love all the tips you give! I will try this in the future! You're awesome, you got a subscriber!
This will be my next step. I just bought 6 rolls of Ilford Kentmere 400 and a developer set. So I will shoot the rolls with some quick photos I will not cry too much over if I destroy them - and then develop myself for the first time . I have shot some rolls of Kodak Vision 3 (Silbersalz35) and I love the results.
Fantastic video - thanks. I have a bulk loader, but I'm getting odd light leaks. I've checked cameras, bags, canisters, my last guess is the loader itself - so thanks for the heads up on do it.
I seen a simple plastic hand crank on e-bay that does the same thing. This would be better for not possibly damaging the cameras shutter curtain. The problem would be keeping the film parallel when taping to the spool. With some experimentation I think this could be overcome. I was thinking if inside the dark bag you were to separate the film roll, and the film canister with tape you could mentally visualize this alignment. To see example of how this might work set down at a table, close your eyes, separate your hands 12 to 16 inches apart with your thumb, and index finger about the width of 35 mm film trying to keep you hands as parallel as possible. Now open your eyes, and see how close your guess to be. When I try this my estimation looks like it would a useable accuracy, any minor inaccuracy could be corrected in the fist 2-3 cranks of the handle. Maybe a more narrow piece of tape would allow for any necessary pivoting. This is just my best guess. Thank your for sharing this video, it came as close to doing what I was consider doing, and pointed out some things I had not considered. I am joining to try. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
If you have a reloadable online shopping card and are able to get bulk film or motion picture film, then you are also able to get screw-top film cassettes designed for bulk loading and it no longer matters if you wind all the film completely into the cassette after shooting, just go in the dark or a changing bag and unscrew the top and wind the film onto the developing tank reel, close the lid, and you can put the lights on/get out of the changing bag and pour in the coffee, washing soda and vitamin C solution and go develop. Or you can stay in the dark and get the bulk film reel and load another cassette.
You can also reuse single use canisters by using a beer opener (need to find one with bigger center hole), yes it bends the can's plastic pivot part a bit but it won't break it. used this method 2-3 times and seems fine.
Hey Stephen, loved this method. Will definitely try it once I have more experience. I wanted to know any tips on how to rewind the film correctly so that the leader is still out? I never know how much to rewind. Thank you!
wow, this is really helpful. I have a question, if I want to make it 27exp how many times do I have to rewind the crank ? I use cinema film, kodak vision 250d
Lovely video. Would you recommend getting empty film containers from a local lab? And if so, how do you get the cut leader out? Appreciate any advice ✌🏼
Great idea using an old camera! But how are you handling a 400’ roll during the loading process? How would you keep tension on the bulk roll without it coming undone inside the bag/darkroom?
@@valerie_screws_around The rewind lever is actually one of the most common things I see broken on old cameras I buy. I just got one last week where the rewind was replaced with a wing nut (I intended to use it to dissect and experiment on some stuff for the same line of cameras)
This is really Interesting and super helpful. Will definitely be trying it. I have a question tho. I just ordered the lab box for development at home and I don’t know how much it cuts off any tips for bulk loading and using the lab box. You mentioned not leaving any tape but on the film when developing.
Thank you for the great tips! I wanted to ask if there would any troubles with shooting fuji eterna beyond 202x. A local lab told me that Fuji's remjet is rather thick and its age has made it too difficult to remove. There may even be a chance that the remjet cannnot come off (I just sent mine in). When I shot Fuji alongside kodak 250d back in 2017, the Fuji's colors were hands down much more beautiful in my own opinion. I wanted to stock more of this film stock but this latest information had made me reconsider. Would love to hear your thoughts and directions if any, on where I could find more Eterna as well.
Local lab is wrong！FUJI's remjet is very easy to remove even easier than Kodak. I use diy pre-wash of ECN-2 never need clean again at final. It can be remove completely in pre-wsah just shake the developer tank vigorously. But my Eterna with another problems is 1: Need overexposed by more than one stop. 2: My 250T is good but 250D with some uneven color issue on film.
@@StevenTanno Thank you for replying! If I may ask, what do you use to pre-wash your ECN2? I have yet to learn how to do ECN2 processing but i am looking to do so with my own eterna film in the future.
I was bought on メルカリ Japan but I fond the seller have sold out FUJI cine film but he still sale some Kodak's. He's name is shakatetsu, you can check it.
@@StevenTanno Thanks, that's what I thought. I have another question... I love the idea and your demonstration was great, I just want to know where and how do you get the empty film cassettes WITH the small film leader. Usually if you do come by some used film cassettes there is no film leader sticking out of them. Also, I was advised in the past NOT to use old, used film cassettes and to buy "reusable" cassettes instead, because if they were opened in the past to get the film out, then there maybe damage and light leaks. What are your thought on this?
@@miks.343 These are all film cassettes that I have finished films. I develop the film myself, so I will cut the film in the dark bag and leave about 1cm for reuse them. If the cassette has been opened with a tool, it will definitely not be used again. Of course, I don't have that tool so I never open the cassette when developing. I have had no light leaks with using this kind cassette.
Fantastic video, thanks Steven! Another way to save film is to tape a piece of exposed/discarded film onto the end of each bulk loaded film to save the frames that are otherwise lost when loading the film into your camera. It can save you around 3-4 pictures per roll!
The production and quality of this video is off the charts! Well done man.
This is amazing! Thank you so much. You have just saved me from impulsive buying of a bulk loader! Very detailed and precise explanations! Great job!
A great tip and I cannot find anyone else on RUclips doing it this simple and cost effective way.
Thanks:))
Thank you so much! Actually some cameras allows removing the back door. So you can use your perfectly working camera for that.
Fabulous idea! I have been using this method successfully and found a few things. First, To avoid getting sweaty in the changing bag, I use nitrile rubber gloves. They are thin enough to still do the task. Second, cutting film in the bag squarely is almost impossible. I modified my scissors with a bit of an old credit card cut to the width of the film and taped onto the blade so I can feel that the film is at right angles to the cutting action. And third, I found that common 3M Invisible Scotch tape works just fine to secure the film to the leader stub. However, I do wind those last couple of frames gently and if I get resistance, I do not force it. Even with auto winding cameras from Nikon and Canon, the film has stayed attached.
I also tried re-using Kodak cassettes and have been successful in getting the film to load 36 exposures. I used Vision 3 500T and Kentmere film stocks. Perhaps with other stocks this won't work.
Very smart idea!!!
Hi @MaggieKB , How many turns did you find work for the Kodak 500T? Cheers
UPDATE: I found that the scissors/plastic card attachment needed reinforcement so I super glued a triangular strip stock of wood to shore up the card and increase the attachment stability. I had a piece of balsa wood lying around and carved off a short section of square strip stock to make the piece. Now, it works really well.
Thank you for this video Uncle.
if you have access to a 3D printing service there is a tool that allows the 400ft roll on one side and allows you to hand wind to a 100 ft core. That will fit into your bulk loader.
The way you do it requires a hand cocking shutter camera, i have destroy an electronic camera, thankfully chip. I roll bulk film in canisters in darkroom having always exactly 36 poses, I have a piece of wood longer than a 36 poses film and I have screw on top 2 blades one left and one right exactly 36 poses long, i don't remember how long is in cm , first i secured the edge of the film in the right blade with a clip and unroll the film till the other blade and there i cut it with scissor , then i hold the film always the emulsion side at my thumb either my left hand or the. Right always emulsion at my thumb, and roll it by hand in the canister, but now you gave me a good idea to roll it inside an old no working camera thank you
Great ideal❤ thank you very much!
非常棒的影片，特別是對400尺的電影膠捲無法用分裝盒的情況，感謝Steven。
I love the song, the accent, the attention to detail, the camera work and the professionalism. what a great video! thank you so much :)
Thank U so much:)
What a great video. I strongly agree with you on the amount of film loaded so it will fit on the roller. Too much film in the canister (depending on film and thickness) may create problems of putting too much tension of the camera when pulling the film. When I first started loading my own film, if I loaded it too tight, the film sometimes snaps inside, and I am not aware of it and may lose shots. I try to avoid the bag and use a bathroom as a dark room. I have large hands and it is difficult to use a black bag.
I would never have thought of that in million years!!😊😊
Thank you Steven for the very useful tips.
Those are great tips ! Thank you .👏
Thank you for making such a wonderful video!
Thank you so much for sharing these tips. It’s really helpful and will make me save the money from buying a daylight film loader! You are so clever
I am glad, Thank you :)
This is such a brilliant yet simple method. Will definitely use it once I start to buy film on bulk, thank you!
Thanks!
Awesome tip, thank you for sharing!
Thanks:)
Very clever! I love it!! You could probably take off the camera back of your loader camera for good. I also love all the tips you give! I will try this in the future! You're awesome, you got a subscriber!
I think the black tape is sold as gaffer tape here. It’s used for so many things by photographers.
This will be my next step. I just bought 6 rolls of Ilford Kentmere 400 and a developer set. So I will shoot the rolls with some quick photos I will not cry too much over if I destroy them - and then develop myself for the first time . I have shot some rolls of Kodak Vision 3 (Silbersalz35) and I love the results.
Great！！！Mr. Jensen
So many good tips here. Thank you.
Very useful. Thank you! What is the music by the way?
この貴重なアドバイスをありがとう
Steven! You're a genius! I've been bulk loading since the 1970's but wanted to switch to 5222 in the long rolls. Just one excellent job! Thank you!
Definitely gonna try this. Thank you!
👍
Genius! Thank you for this handy tip
Fantastic video - thanks. I have a bulk loader, but I'm getting odd light leaks. I've checked cameras, bags, canisters, my last guess is the loader itself - so thanks for the heads up on do it.
This seems like a really great method, thanks!!
I seen a simple plastic hand crank on e-bay that does the same thing. This would be better for not possibly damaging the cameras shutter curtain. The problem would be keeping the film parallel when taping to the spool. With some experimentation I think this could be overcome. I was thinking if inside the dark bag you were to separate the film roll, and the film canister with tape you could mentally visualize this alignment. To see example of how this might work set down at a table, close your eyes, separate your hands 12 to 16 inches apart with your thumb, and index finger about the width of 35 mm film trying to keep you hands as parallel as possible. Now open your eyes, and see how close your guess to be. When I try this my estimation looks like it would a useable accuracy, any minor inaccuracy could be corrected in the fist 2-3 cranks of the handle. Maybe a more narrow piece of tape would allow for any necessary pivoting. This is just my best guess. Thank your for sharing this video, it came as close to doing what I was consider doing, and pointed out some things I had not considered. I am joining to try. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Thank you!
perfecto!
Great method! Bulk loaders are really hard to find here where I live (Brazil). I'll end up using it someday. Thanks!
Yes, we don't need it any more, thank U :))
Thank you Steven, very important tips that will help avoiding mistakes.
Thanks I am glad
Thank you Steven ; you're so innovative and kind to share this with us all , thank You !! Christopher.
Steven, your English is amazingly good! Thanks for another very helpful video.
Thank for your sweet words:))
Genius. Subarashii!
Thanks:)
If you have a reloadable online shopping card and are able to get bulk film or motion picture film, then you are also able to get screw-top film cassettes designed for bulk loading and it no longer matters if you wind all the film completely into the cassette after shooting, just go in the dark or a changing bag and unscrew the top and wind the film onto the developing tank reel, close the lid, and you can put the lights on/get out of the changing bag and pour in the coffee, washing soda and vitamin C solution and go develop. Or you can stay in the dark and get the bulk film reel and load another cassette.
my dude, the video was amazing, but the background music was out of this world!!!, can you share the name of the songs please?
Hey Steven, I just recently got a 400 foot roll of Kodak Vision 3-250 D. I will have to try this. Thanks for the video and tips. Cheers!
So great, 400 foot V3,
Very nice.
You can also reuse single use canisters by using a beer opener (need to find one with bigger center hole), yes it bends the can's plastic pivot part a bit but it won't break it. used this method 2-3 times and seems fine.
you are a genius! Thank you so much!
Now I want to try :)
Hey Stephen, loved this method. Will definitely try it once I have more experience. I wanted to know any tips on how to rewind the film correctly so that the leader is still out? I never know how much to rewind. Thank you!
Yes of course leader outside. For double-x b/w film 29 turns is just right.
Steven, another great, informative video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it
great video!!!
Thank you!!
wow, this is really helpful. I have a question, if I want to make it 27exp how many times do I have to rewind the crank ?
I use cinema film, kodak vision 250d
Great tip and it is much cheaper to buy the bulk loader itself. Keep these tips coming. Kudos!
Thanks a lot :))
Great video. Thank you
Lovely video. Would you recommend getting empty film containers from a local lab? And if so, how do you get the cut leader out? Appreciate any advice ✌🏼
you can get containers from a local lab and use a film leader retriever to pull the leader out
Great idea using an old camera! But how are you handling a 400’ roll during the loading process? How would you keep tension on the bulk roll without it coming undone inside the bag/darkroom?
I still leave it in the can and just pulled out the film leader, it won't spread out.
@@StevenTanno Ah, that makes sense. Thank you for your reply!
There is no need to use a broken camera, you can use the perfectly good one you have that works.
Giving it 2x the wear and tear is kinda silly, IF you have a spare one. If not, then yeah
@@gavinjenkins899 I mean turning the rewind lever a bit is about the last thing I would worry about wearing out...
@@valerie_screws_around The rewind lever is actually one of the most common things I see broken on old cameras I buy. I just got one last week where the rewind was replaced with a wing nut (I intended to use it to dissect and experiment on some stuff for the same line of cameras)
Brilliant! Now, how about a cheep way to save those extra wasted 3 frames or so per roll? Is it practical to splice white cine leader to each roll?
Yes many people do like that. It's simple and sometimes I want to do it too.
Amazing video! Do you have any suggestions for place to buy 400ft roll film in Japan or anywhere in the world?
Hard to find in Japan you can buy from B&H online they can ship to Japan.
Very informative video!
Thanks :)
Very usefull, appreciate the video alot!
Thanks:)
👍👍👍
This is really Interesting and super helpful. Will definitely be trying it. I have a question tho. I just ordered the lab box for development at home and I don’t know how much it cuts off any tips for bulk loading and using the lab box. You mentioned not leaving any tape but on the film when developing.
I would use easy removable tape and less cut as possible, Thanks :)
Hi, good video. I wanted to ask where you get the bull roll of Fuji Eterna from?
I bought from Mercari Japan for 25,000 JPY.
There is something I don't understand. How are you holding the big roll of film so it doesn't move around when winding it into the canister?
Very interesting video bro 👏☺️
Glad you liked it
Thank you for the great tips! I wanted to ask if there would any troubles with shooting fuji eterna beyond 202x. A local lab told me that Fuji's remjet is rather thick and its age has made it too difficult to remove. There may even be a chance that the remjet cannnot come off (I just sent mine in). When I shot Fuji alongside kodak 250d back in 2017, the Fuji's colors were hands down much more beautiful in my own opinion. I wanted to stock more of this film stock but this latest information had made me reconsider. Would love to hear your thoughts and directions if any, on where I could find more Eterna as well.
Local lab is wrong！FUJI's remjet is very easy to remove even easier than Kodak.
I use diy pre-wash of ECN-2 never need clean again at final. It can be remove completely in pre-wsah just shake the developer tank vigorously.
But my Eterna with another problems is
1: Need overexposed by more than one stop.
2: My 250T is good but 250D with some uneven color issue on film.
@@StevenTanno Thank you for replying! If I may ask, what do you use to pre-wash your ECN2? I have yet to learn how to do ECN2 processing but i am looking to do so with my own eterna film in the future.
@@yanzhi96 I diy the pre-washer: Sodium Sulfate,anh.100g and Borax,decah. 20g to make 1 L, It's perfect
Like the part that you add a “in a dark bag” frame to the video.
People don’t think to do that.
Hi Steve if you could send some link where I can purchase fuji eterna 250D like the one from your movie?
I was bought on メルカリ Japan but I fond the seller have sold out FUJI cine film but he still sale some Kodak's. He's name is shakatetsu, you can check it.
Hey Steven, thank you for the video. I was wondering: where do you buy your bulk rolls?
I was bought these FUJI on jp.mercari.com.
@@StevenTanno Thank you very much!
Hello, one question, in dark bag, without seeing it, how to make sure the film is parallel ? like at 6:20. thanks
make sure the sprocket holes match with the sprockets near the take-up spool
is fuji still making Eterna film? Where do you buy that?
I was bought from Japanese Mercari (メルカリ)
It’s so cool can I buy your film hahahahaha
hahahaha😄
所以相機背蓋是用不到的，那可以直接拆掉嗎?
最好拆掉、可是发现比较难拆😂
give is the brand/type of the tape in english.
我目前想到是直接把我的F3轉到T快門，讓快門簾永遠保持開啟，避免誤觸，然後拆掉機背蓋之後放進暗袋裡面
这个方法很好👍
@@StevenTanno 而且F3的機背蓋很好拆
Why do you need a broken camera to do this? Can you not use your regular film camera, or will this process damage it?
Yes I don't want to damage camera's shutter in dark.
@@StevenTanno Thanks, that's what I thought. I have another question... I love the idea and your demonstration was great, I just want to know where and how do you get the empty film cassettes WITH the small film leader. Usually if you do come by some used film cassettes there is no film leader sticking out of them. Also, I was advised in the past NOT to use old, used film cassettes and to buy "reusable" cassettes instead, because if they were opened in the past to get the film out, then there maybe damage and light leaks. What are your thought on this?
@@miks.343 These are all film cassettes that I have finished films. I develop the film myself, so I will cut the film in the dark bag and leave about 1cm for reuse them.
If the cassette has been opened with a tool, it will definitely not be used again. Of course, I don't have that tool so I never open the cassette when developing. I have had no light leaks with using this kind cassette.
@@StevenTanno Thank you, that makes sense...
just buy a old film loader. 50€ for a vintage one. cheaper then ruining any film.