If anyone wants the exact Kodak formula it is as follows Water 27 to 38°C (80 to 100°F) 800 mL KODAK Anti-Calcium, No. 4 3.0 mL Sodium Carbonate (anhydrous) 58.0 g Sodium Bicarbonate (anhydrous) 19.0 g KODAK Stabilizer Additive 0.5 mL Water to make 1L pH at 25.0°C (77.0°F) 10.0 ± 0.20
I´m just puzzled following your method. Absolutely great! The only difference, I´m wondering about: In my case the remjet vanished completely after prewash and developing. I took the film out of the spool after dev, blix + fix, like other people did and wanted to remove rest of the black mess with my fingers inside the water tab. But there is nothing left! No need for cleaning with a sponge! I´ve been using 100g washing soda in 1 Liter, around 40° Celsius. Maybe my soda is different?(very cheap from ebay). I also don´t think, that the chemicals are affected. The remjet simply vanished/dissolved during the prebath ;-) . Anyway, this works perfectly fine for me. Thank You for sharing! Regards. Oh, btw., the film was Vision 3 of course, 250D.
Whoa, that's great. I'd consider yourself lucky! I usually get most of it but there's usually some residual left to clean up after. I'll have to give your method a try next time. Cheers!
While the shown concoction will work, it does not remove all the remjet before development, which is the preferred situation. A more effective remjet removal solution is: Water 100F / 500ml Borax, decah. / 20g (Crystal, like 20-Mule Team) Sodium Sulfate, anh. / 100g (source chemical supply; cheap) Sodium Hydroxide / 1g (supermarket lye) Use at 100F. Soak and agitate in solution for 10 to 30 seconds, then wash several times with serious agitation until water runs clear when dumped. The solution can be reused until its volume needs to be topped off, as there is no consumption of the chemicals. Since some remjet will come off in the removal solution, just filter it though a drip coffee filter to remove that grit when the solution looks contaminated. Remjet is just powdered carbon glued on the base side of the film. This alkaline removal solution quickly dissolves the glue which binds it to the film. I'd still give the film a wipe after final wash and before using Photoflo, but you will find that nearly all the remjet was initially removed. This will leave less loose remjet to contaminate your C-41 developer and transfer to your next film when reused.
Hey Dustin, great video, very helpful! Can you reuse the developer after the remjet removal part or is it too contaminated? Just asking because I ordered a kit that's supposed to develop 12-16 rolls and I want to develop a batch of regular c-41 film some time after.
Thank you! I haven’t had issues with contamination. For a while, I was only doing remjet rolls after all my C41 rolls but then I have that up and haven’t had problems. Good luck!
If you do have problems with remjet in your developer ending up on the film, you can filter the developer through a coffee filter. I wouldn't do that unless you are really concerned about it because you wanna avoid adding oxygen into the developer, and filtering will add air. Also, I don't know if you need this advice, but in my experience most developer kits are only good for about half the advertised number of rolls. You can keep using it after that point, but you will start to get color shifts that can be annoying to edit out. Imo the extra time editing isn't worth the money saved by stretching your chemicals that much.
i've done this before using a different method of removal which gave me poor results. If you wanted to try this you would need to use a reliable remjet remover (like the video). -Load the unexposed film into a development tank. -Remove as much remjet you can with warm water rinses -In a darkroom (Lights off) Remove the film from the reel -gently rub the Base with your thumb inside a bucket of warm water to remove the rest of the remjet -Place the wet film into a drawer or cabinet that is 100% light proof and dust free that will allow the film to dry completely - Once film is dry and free from light leaks, Reload the canister and shoot as normal You need to be very careful and very thorough. Make sure you have some way to wash and dry the film without any light leaks.
@@heatonize much appreciated for the detailed step by step explanation, challenge accepted, I'll let you know how it goes. The idea of having Cinestill on tap drives me crazy, imagine if Polariods had halation's, it's be insane.
You're very welcome. When the remjet touches the elulsion, it just sort of embeds itself right in there and ruins the image. I've had a few rolls marred by this disaster so I express caution to save others the headache.
That's what Cinestill does. I gave it a try and wasn't able to get it to work. After looking into it a little bit, it seems that the remjet removal process is a catalyst to the development so it is easier said than done.
Great video. Very hepful. I'm about to dev my first few rolls of Vision 3. I was curious to know why you didn't stabilise before removing the film from the tank. Is stabilising before removing the residual remjet problematic?
You’re welcome, Greg! I recently tried using just baking soda and achieved similar results. If you haven’t tried using ECN-2 chemistry, it’s worth checking out!
@@dustinveitch2825 I don't develop colour film at home. But yesterday I developed a test roll in Rodinal, with stand development. I just finished photographing the negatives (Im a newbie at that !) and can't wait to see how they turned out. The sure thing is that, I can clearly see images ! I have one more test roll in the camera that I will have it developed normally at a lab. When I get the roll back, I will try your removal method. So far, the rolls I had developed , I was using baking soda after I got them to remove the remjet. It worked but nit that well, maybe cause it was done so late, after the development I mean, who knows. We shall see. Hope it works well in that case too !!
I've never actually developed with Caffenol before. To be honest, I haven't ever really been that interested in it but if I do, I'll see about making a video.
I’ve found it not to work much better. Some films work better than other but the best way I think is till wiping it after development to make sure it’s clean.
Really informative.... Thank you :-) When you say "Re rolling it back on to the reel and run it through the stabiliser"...... Wouldn't the film crease if you were to try that?
If you're careful, you can get it to go back onto the reels. Sometimes I do that with some films if they're extra curly--rolling them back onto the reels in the opposite way to decrease the curl.
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Byron Aarav i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
That is exactly right. As soon as I rinse off the remjet, I begin with the C41 process. I've never done in with black and white but I can imagine it would be the same process. Good luck!
@@dustinveitch2825 and it doesn't weaken the developingchemical ability, right? I'm so excited to find this video bcs i always find that remjet needs a special chemical and using c41 chemical for remjet is gonna ruin the chemical it self. Just want to really make sure of this method, bcs this is gonna be my first home develop process😅
In the video I use sodium carbonate, also known as washing powder in some areas. I’ve also started using sodium bicarbonate, or baking soda. In the video I say not to use it but I’ve since tested it with positive results. I use 3 tablespoons worth of baking soda in 1 liter of water at 102 degrees and follow the rest of the process as you see in the video. Good luck!
To clarify what's going on here, remjet is something like carbon black powder which has been coated on the back of the film base (not on the emulsion side) with a binder, like a weak glue. The binder dissolves when soaked with a basic solution at warm temperature. In the real world of ECN2 processing the film back is first run past a spray of the solution, which dissolves the binder and blows the remjet off before moving on to the developer tank. So, most solutions which have a basic pH high enough and are warm enough, and applied with enough physical force to wash off the loose remjet, will get the job done. The solution specified by Kodak in its ECN2 formulas doesn't use the same chemicals he uses or discusses here. It uses a weak solution of sodium hydroxide (lye) with a few additions, but lye can be nasty to work with, so DIY folks usually use a less troublesome chemical. The point often not mentioned in these discussions is that whatever you use to dissolve and remove the remjet, you must thereafter wash the film completely before proceeding to development. Any remjet remover solution retained in the film emulsion or tank and carried over into the developer will radically change its chemical function and will likely destroy the development process.
Umm, having developed a few dozen rolls with no rejet stripper I can say for sure your concoction is not what caused the remjet to wash off. After the developer you can do a rinse and get most of the remjet off before putting in the blix. Does your striper work BEFORE starting to develop the film? The Kodak Remjet stripper uses Sodium Tetraborate and is a pre wash before developing the film.
Yep, this is before the developer bath. I've done it without using a remjet solution as well but I found it to be not nearly as effective. Plus, I like to remove as much of it as I can before developing to hopefully prevent it from embedding itself into the emulsion.
@@dustinveitch2825 I tried it and it works amazingly well. The first roll was a bit grainy but it was from 2012 so testing some fresher 250D to see if I get better results. So far I LOVE IT!
so. I just getting into (cine) film . bought a bolex super 8 it came with some film (expired in 94) , printed a spiral made a tank .... That F remjet is F F F immovable even with F NaOH or commercial stuff. The only thig it works is just rubbing it off.. :( F!
Genius, you have two problems. Eastman Kodak uses TWO different anti-halation backings on cine film stocks; Rem-jet and Carbon-jet. Rem-jet is fairly easy to remove as per your u-toob, CARBON-JET is VERY hard to remove (except from a cine-processor where it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove and clean-up) and takes powered scrub-brushes to remove. Don't trust me, ask Eastman Kodak, and 95% of modern (not out-dated) cine-film stock has carbon-jet backing on it to pass-thru Cinemascope cameras without damage (they are trash). Eastman and Fuji coat 60% of cine-film made on Earth, and you can't process Indian or Chinese film stock as it's "split-process" EN-5.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
If anyone wants the exact Kodak formula it is as follows
Water 27 to 38°C (80 to 100°F)
800 mL
KODAK Anti-Calcium, No. 4
3.0 mL
Sodium Carbonate (anhydrous)
58.0 g
Sodium Bicarbonate (anhydrous)
19.0 g
KODAK Stabilizer Additive
0.5 mL
Water to make
1L
pH at 25.0°C (77.0°F)
10.0 ± 0.20
I´m just puzzled following your method. Absolutely great! The only difference, I´m wondering about: In my case the remjet vanished completely after prewash and developing. I took the film out of the spool after dev, blix + fix, like other people did and wanted to remove rest of the black mess with my fingers inside the water tab. But there is nothing left! No need for cleaning with a sponge! I´ve been using 100g washing soda in 1 Liter, around 40° Celsius. Maybe my soda is different?(very cheap from ebay). I also don´t think, that the chemicals are affected. The remjet simply vanished/dissolved during the prebath ;-) . Anyway, this works perfectly fine for me. Thank You for sharing! Regards. Oh, btw., the film was Vision 3 of course, 250D.
Whoa, that's great. I'd consider yourself lucky! I usually get most of it but there's usually some residual left to clean up after. I'll have to give your method a try next time. Cheers!
While the shown concoction will work, it does not remove all the remjet before development, which is the preferred situation. A more effective remjet removal solution is:
Water 100F / 500ml
Borax, decah. / 20g (Crystal, like 20-Mule Team)
Sodium Sulfate, anh. / 100g (source chemical supply; cheap)
Sodium Hydroxide / 1g (supermarket lye)
Use at 100F. Soak and agitate in solution for 10 to 30 seconds, then wash several times with serious agitation until water runs clear when dumped. The solution can be reused until its volume needs to be topped off, as there is no consumption of the chemicals. Since some remjet will come off in the removal solution, just filter it though a drip coffee filter to remove that grit when the solution looks contaminated. Remjet is just powdered carbon glued on the base side of the film. This alkaline removal solution quickly dissolves the glue which binds it to the film. I'd still give the film a wipe after final wash and before using Photoflo, but you will find that nearly all the remjet was initially removed. This will leave less loose remjet to contaminate your C-41 developer and transfer to your next film when reused.
Hey Dustin, great video, very helpful! Can you reuse the developer after the remjet removal part or is it too contaminated? Just asking because I ordered a kit that's supposed to develop 12-16 rolls and I want to develop a batch of regular c-41 film some time after.
Thank you! I haven’t had issues with contamination. For a while, I was only doing remjet rolls after all my C41 rolls but then I have that up and haven’t had problems. Good luck!
@@dustinveitch2825 thank you!!
If you do have problems with remjet in your developer ending up on the film, you can filter the developer through a coffee filter. I wouldn't do that unless you are really concerned about it because you wanna avoid adding oxygen into the developer, and filtering will add air.
Also, I don't know if you need this advice, but in my experience most developer kits are only good for about half the advertised number of rolls. You can keep using it after that point, but you will start to get color shifts that can be annoying to edit out. Imo the extra time editing isn't worth the money saved by stretching your chemicals that much.
Thank you for the solid explanation, do you think it would be possible to remove the remjet before shooting, I really want cool red hallations
i've done this before using a different method of removal which gave me poor results. If you wanted to try this you would need to use a reliable remjet remover (like the video).
-Load the unexposed film into a development tank.
-Remove as much remjet you can with warm water rinses
-In a darkroom (Lights off) Remove the film from the reel
-gently rub the Base with your thumb inside a bucket of warm water to remove the rest of the remjet
-Place the wet film into a drawer or cabinet that is 100% light proof and dust free that will allow the film to dry completely
- Once film is dry and free from light leaks, Reload the canister and shoot as normal
You need to be very careful and very thorough. Make sure you have some way to wash and dry the film without any light leaks.
@@heatonize much appreciated for the detailed step by step explanation, challenge accepted, I'll let you know how it goes. The idea of having Cinestill on tap drives me crazy, imagine if Polariods had halation's, it's be insane.
@@BboyGraphicx Please keep me updated i wish you the best of luck!!
Thank you for this upload! What exactly happens when the remjet touches the emulsion?
You're very welcome. When the remjet touches the elulsion, it just sort of embeds itself right in there and ruins the image. I've had a few rolls marred by this disaster so I express caution to save others the headache.
Can this be done to the bulk reels prior to loading into cassettes?
That's what Cinestill does. I gave it a try and wasn't able to get it to work. After looking into it a little bit, it seems that the remjet removal process is a catalyst to the development so it is easier said than done.
With that being said, if you are going to removed the remjet could you shoot 500t at 800 and 250d at 400?
Great video. Very hepful. I'm about to dev my first few rolls of Vision 3. I was curious to know why you didn't stabilise before removing the film from the tank. Is stabilising before removing the residual remjet problematic?
Most people stabilize after removing the remjet. I can’t really tell you why but that’s what I’ve found out there.
@@dustinveitch2825 Thanks, Dustin. Grateful for your reply. I Googled it, and it seems to be because the remjet contamintes the stabliser.
Thanks Dustin, just a question about that jug of hot water for rinsing, is also at C41 temps ?
Yes, that’s right. I usually just get it warm but I wouldn’t do higher than 105 or so.
That was very helpful Dustin, thank you so much !!! It worked like a charm for my Kodak 200T !
You’re welcome, Greg! I recently tried using just baking soda and achieved similar results. If you haven’t tried using ECN-2 chemistry, it’s worth checking out!
@@dustinveitch2825 I don't develop colour film at home. But yesterday I developed a test roll in Rodinal, with stand development. I just finished photographing the negatives (Im a newbie at that !) and can't wait to see how they turned out. The sure thing is that, I can clearly see images ! I have one more test roll in the camera that I will have it developed normally at a lab. When I get the roll back, I will try your removal method. So far, the rolls I had developed , I was using baking soda after I got them to remove the remjet. It worked but nit that well, maybe cause it was done so late, after the development I mean, who knows. We shall see. Hope it works well in that case too !!
Great explanation. Can you do one on Caffenol? The sources online are all over the map.
I've never actually developed with Caffenol before. To be honest, I haven't ever really been that interested in it but if I do, I'll see about making a video.
I'm not asking for anything bad, but why do almost all analog photography youtubers grow a mustache?
You either go full-Ansel or you don’t. I’m clearly going for it.
great video! I have to try this
Is there a reason you dont let the prewash solution sit longer to disolve the remjet more?
I’ve found it not to work much better. Some films work better than other but the best way I think is till wiping it after development to make sure it’s clean.
So this would be good for Kodak Vison 3?
Absolutely!
He is using is Vision 3 film.
Really informative.... Thank you :-)
When you say "Re rolling it back on to the reel and run it through the stabiliser"...... Wouldn't the film crease if you were to try that?
If you're careful, you can get it to go back onto the reels. Sometimes I do that with some films if they're extra curly--rolling them back onto the reels in the opposite way to decrease the curl.
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I love any tricks you can give me.
@Watson Keagan instablaster =)
@Byron Aarav i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Byron Aarav It worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
sorry- was this film developed first w/ the C41 chems then you do this process?
You can do the remjet before you develop or afterwards. I prefer to do it before and always make sure to give it a good wipe after the final wash.
@@dustinveitch2825 cool
Just to make things clear for me, after the remjet removal, i do the usual c41 develop process right? Can i use it for black and white process too?
That is exactly right. As soon as I rinse off the remjet, I begin with the C41 process. I've never done in with black and white but I can imagine it would be the same process. Good luck!
@@dustinveitch2825 and it doesn't weaken the developingchemical ability, right? I'm so excited to find this video bcs i always find that remjet needs a special chemical and using c41 chemical for remjet is gonna ruin the chemical it self. Just want to really make sure of this method, bcs this is gonna be my first home develop process😅
In Indonesia, some people develop bulk film in bw, it give nice detail and good grains
@@bimawenas That is always an option but I prefer to do these films in colour. Black and white film is much easier to come across.
@@platinumporkchop776 did you manage to do it yourself? *Fromindo
Do you have an ETSY for film?
Very helpful! Thank you.
Glad to be helpful. Cheers!
I still can’t see what your using for remjet remover.
In the video I use sodium carbonate, also known as washing powder in some areas. I’ve also started using sodium bicarbonate, or baking soda. In the video I say not to use it but I’ve since tested it with positive results. I use 3 tablespoons worth of baking soda in 1 liter of water at 102 degrees and follow the rest of the process as you see in the video. Good luck!
@@dustinveitch2825 thank you
To clarify what's going on here, remjet is something like carbon black powder which has been coated on the back of the film base (not on the emulsion side) with a binder, like a weak glue. The binder dissolves when soaked with a basic solution at warm temperature. In the real world of ECN2 processing the film back is first run past a spray of the solution, which dissolves the binder and blows the remjet off before moving on to the developer tank. So, most solutions which have a basic pH high enough and are warm enough, and applied with enough physical force to wash off the loose remjet, will get the job done. The solution specified by Kodak in its ECN2 formulas doesn't use the same chemicals he uses or discusses here. It uses a weak solution of sodium hydroxide (lye) with a few additions, but lye can be nasty to work with, so DIY folks usually use a less troublesome chemical. The point often not mentioned in these discussions is that whatever you use to dissolve and remove the remjet, you must thereafter wash the film completely before proceeding to development. Any remjet remover solution retained in the film emulsion or tank and carried over into the developer will radically change its chemical function and will likely destroy the development process.
@@dustinveitch2825 I was gonna ask if I can use baking soda! 🤞🏻🤞🏻 hoping it will park for me too
@@NuralIdrisoglu I’ve been using it recently with good results. I was making a much bigger deal of it-it’s really easy to do.
Hi, which is the name of the product to keep bottles warm? Thanks :)
I use the Anova sous vide unit but there are a lot of other ones out there. Cinestill even has their own designed for developing film.
@@dustinveitch2825 thank you so much! 😊
Hell ya man!
Thanks dude!
Calum Neill thanks Calum! You give it a try yet?
@@dustinveitch2825 gonna shoot that 250d you gave me this weekend hopefully!
Umm, having developed a few dozen rolls with no rejet stripper I can say for sure your concoction is not what caused the remjet to wash off. After the developer you can do a rinse and get most of the remjet off before putting in the blix. Does your striper work BEFORE starting to develop the film?
The Kodak Remjet stripper uses Sodium Tetraborate and is a pre wash before developing the film.
Yep, this is before the developer bath. I've done it without using a remjet solution as well but I found it to be not nearly as effective. Plus, I like to remove as much of it as I can before developing to hopefully prevent it from embedding itself into the emulsion.
@@dustinveitch2825 I tried it and it works amazingly well. The first roll was a bit grainy but it was from 2012 so testing some fresher 250D to see if I get better results. So far I LOVE IT!
Thanks
Carbid is not black and remjet is not carbid. Carbon and carbid, different things.
so. I just getting into (cine) film .
bought a bolex super 8 it came with some film (expired in 94) , printed a spiral made a tank ....
That F remjet is F F F immovable even with F NaOH or commercial stuff.
The only thig it works is just rubbing it off.. :( F!
Felix is probably offended by your 'not important work' comment ;)
Dmitry Koupriyanov so that’s why he wakes me up at 5:30 every morning.
you SHOULD use baking soda
When you mention it's all cat photos 😂
Landon Parenteau haha yeah. I might be only speaking for myself.
Wait until you get a photoflo build up in your tanks and reels. You will have a new problem
Oj purple stuff heheh
Genius, you have two problems. Eastman Kodak uses TWO different anti-halation backings on cine film stocks; Rem-jet and Carbon-jet. Rem-jet is fairly easy to remove as per your u-toob, CARBON-JET is VERY hard to remove (except from a cine-processor where it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove and clean-up) and takes powered scrub-brushes to remove. Don't trust me, ask Eastman Kodak, and 95% of modern (not out-dated) cine-film stock has carbon-jet backing on it to pass-thru Cinemascope cameras without damage (they are trash). Eastman and Fuji coat 60% of cine-film made on Earth, and you can't process Indian or Chinese film stock as it's "split-process" EN-5.