An important thing to note is the leader/end wastage is the same regardless of if there is 12/20/40. If you're bulk loading to keep the cost down longer length cassettes are more economical to develop and waste less film.
I totally agree, otherwise it would be about economical to buy them pre-loaded. I hear some say bulk loading is great for short film, I disagree, the economy is in loading 36 exposures.
True. At the same time bulk loading gives you the freedom to choose the length of film according to your needs. I find oftentimes that 36 pictures on a roll are more than I need for a photowalk or tour. Then I can wait till I my next tour -- or if I want my pictures the same day just take a few pictures I would otherwise not have taken just to finish the roll, which of course is also a waste.
You aren't wrong. But one thing to note that with that particular loader, the end wastage is essentially not a thing as when used properly, its so short it won't make it out of the cassette when loaded. Camera dependant of course.
When I was a newspaper photographer, we always just loaded rolls of 10 or 12, because we usually only needed a few shots, then had to develop them. Of course, the waste didn't cost us anything. That was all the paper's expense. Good point to remember, though.
There was this guy on reddit who made a post about how film photography doesn't have to be expensive. His cost per roll was extremely low due to bulk loading Fomapan and using a well working, but basic €50 camera. The cost of doing 35mm photography can really vary by a factor of 10, depending on what you want to do.
Superb demonstration. An old camera shop in Dublin gave me a bulk film loader, its missing a crank but it seems easily replaced. Also, found out that these film loaders are like 100£+ 😱
7:00 Ahh the joys of having to learn to see with our hands!! The frustrating and ridiculous things us photographers do for our art!! LOL Great video and awesome explanation!! Thank you for making this video!!!
One tip for first timers is to use a length of duff film (or a strip of exposed negatives) to feed through the slot in the daylight beforehand to see how the mechanism works. Then try it with closed eyes. When you've got the hang of it in daylight, you can then do it in the dark with a bit more confidence. I tend to open the film loading bit too so I can twist the knob and feel it come through the gate to be absolutely sure it's engaged before putting the bulk roll in the loader and closing the back panel.
Old bulk loaders can be found cheap (mine was £3), but often the felt has degraded on them and needs replacing otherwise it could cover your film and the inside of your camera. 'feltless' loaders if used with feltless labyrinth cassettes means nothing touches the film's surface and so lowers the risk of scratches.
4:51 from here onwards should also be done in the dark, some how! if you don't and god forbid you are using a watson type loader the last frame or two of your film will be fogged and heres the best bit... untiil you've loaded several rolls and god the knack you'll never know when your at the last frame, and that frame plus perhaps the one previous will be ruined!
I actually tape the film to the spool of a reusable cassette in the dark so I don't have the problem of the end of the film being exposed. I load all the film at one time onto cassettes, and cut the film in the dark. In doing so, I figure I save about 18 frames per 100ft roll
yes- load the cassette into the loader in the dark - especially with the Watson style loader which often causes you to lose half of the last frame because you have the longer reach to the winder handle - the one Roger is using looks like it exposes less of the length so may not be as big an issue
Great vid Roger, wish it had been about when I started bulk loading. Two things I want to say; 1, if anyone still has places like snappy snaps, the sort of place that does one hour colour processing, if you ask them about canisters chances are you'll walk out with a load. Back when Jessops was still operating I popped in, explained what I wanted them for and walked out with a sports direct big bag full to the bring of them. Granted, some were dented, but that was years and years ago and I'm still working my way through them. 2, I would suggest something like scotch tape for joining the film. I've found its just much nicer to use and didn't snag as often as other tapes I've used.
If you are using some fancy-pantsy camera that reads DX codes, don't forget to dial in your ISO manually, or use canisters from a film that had same sensitivity as the one you are loading!
The point of bulk loading to me isn’t really to save money (though that is a great benefit if you’re committed to one particular emulsion) but more to be able to use the the reloadable cassettes that are made for particular cameras, like the brass Leica FILCA or IXMOO - they are such a pleasure to use and particularly in the case of screwmount leicas, correct for a framing issue you will encounter if using a normal commercially available pre-loaded cart. I also think it’s great for being able to try weird films you’d never have access to otherwise, for the more experimentally minded. Or just being able to stock up on your favorite film and deep freeze so you’re set for decades.
I have a PFaff Watson bulk loader I’ve had since the 80s. Bought a legacy Pro and used a duff bit of film to try and feed it through , it was easy!- much easier than the Watson. Then of course I loaded my bulk film in the dark bag- actually got 3 bulk loader with film in one with some FP4 already in.
Very nice demonstartion, Roger. I have never done this. Hmmm . Come to think of it, the initial outlay is rather too much for me, £75.00 for the loader, £170.00 for a tin of TriX.
I'm buying, repairing and testing a lot of old cameras. Albeit most of them are medium format, quite a few of them are 35mm format. Spending a whole new cassette for just testing purpose is a waste of material, time and money - and 12 pictures cassettes are not really available. So I got the idea to buy a bulk roll and make myself those 12 pictures cassettes. Now I'm on the search of a good bulk roll loader. That's, btw, is my idea to use your old roll: make a video testing and comparing different bulk roll loaders.
I bulk load almost exclusively, I use the bulk loaded film in my older rangefinders. I usually just use the Foma or Arista bulk film, but now that is becoming expensive.
Great video!!! I haven't done this since the 1970s, but i bought some bulk rolls and will be on my bulk adventure this summer!!! I hope I am not the Hulk when i try!!!
one tip, this is simmilar to the movie film reel winding, so, do as they do, PUT the TAPE on the can lid, so this doesn't get into any other places it shouldn't, and gum up the film loader, or other film holders/cassettes.
When I use the Bob N Quick loader I put scissors inside the dark bag and cut a pointy end on the film before feeding into loader guide path . It just seems to work well for me till I gain more Bob N Quick experience .
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Well awesome ! Lucky guess on my part , bought used no manual . Appreciate your videos I have watched . Intend to check out more ! After 20 years away from darkroom basically starting over . Thanks
the tail at the end is virtually all that you lose! for those of you hesitant to splash out on a bulk loader, you can do it all in a darkroom/bag without one, you just need a piece of string for the desired length, scissors, tape and empty cannisters (preferably the type you can open), then you load only onto the spool (to reduce resistance/friction/chance of scratching) then put spool into canister and job's a gooden. It can take considerably longer though, and sweaty hands can cause trouble so make a value judgement as to whether it's worth it)
One thing people need to take note of is to close the top lid, and plug the canister spinny thingy in as well or the film leader will somehow stuck and gets crushed. Didn't know about that and I spent an hour+crushed about half-meter of Fomapan until I figure out there's something wrong.
I bulk load but have had issues with film not advancing smoothly. It seems to be more of a problem with rolls I load 10-15 frames. These I use when testing a new camera, lens or developer. This can result in overlapping frames, this is most common when using my small Nikons such as my FM, FE or FA. My F3 doesn't seem to be affected, I won't use bulk loaded film in my Retina due to it's delicate film advance.
That's strange Mathew. Only real problem I get is on my f6 or f5 it says end of film after halfway into the film. Obvs too tight loaded. But not often just sometimes.
I bulk load my own film and have for a while. I much prefer the watson style (your original one) to the AP style. I find them to be more fiddly. They do expose a little less film when loading but the watson style is just handier in the dark. I find that given the rise in bulk load film in BW that one doesn't save as much per roll as one used to. However, when shooting film like bulk Kodak Vision 3, one can save a lot of money over buying a roll pre-loaded. I think you did a great job presenting the loading process. I especially found the part where you are loading in the dark but showing a daylight version of what stage is going on at the time very useful. Nicely done and one of the better loading videos.
I feel like I should mension that you *can* bulk load film without a loader, I have not done this but what you can do is just pull out a bit of film from the roll tape it into the cassette and wind in by hand. Then put the bulk roll back in its light tight packaging. You can also use a fully mechanical SLR to rewind the film with the little crank rewinder thing.
Yes it's possible but i'm not sure myself if I would scratch the film and get into a mess inside the changing bag. I'd more than likely do it in my darkroom where I have space. I know some do!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss also while again I have never done this I have thought about it, if you ever intend to do this look up how to do it on on youtube since it may not be as simple as it seems to get the film taped on perfectly straight. And also practice with an old piece of film first (you can just cut a piece from that ruined roll.)
good video, how about using the 'duff' roll to show us how to load a 250 or 750 exposure back, you know the machine gun looking cartridge on the rear of cannons and the Nikon F2 film cameras, with the motor drive and the rest; as not too many videos are around on this, plenty on the cameras, the backs, accessories (including the 'winder' apparatus), then actually loading the 'cans' with film, then loading the back onto the camera.
I wonder how much of the exposed roll is actually damaged, considering how tightly it's rolled up. Obviously the region around the sprocket holes and the film around the outside... but how far would the light leak penetrate from there?
great video, i have just ordred the ap bulk loader and a roll of fomapan 100. would it be easier to load if you cut the corners off, like loading a film on the spool of the developing tank?
If I had my way and hope for it to work perfectly, I would open a new roll of 35mm film cannister, place a long sheet of paper (4 feet long) on a table or bench in a room that can be completely dark without light, in the dark take the film out of the new 35mm cannister and place flat on the white paper then mark one end to the other, put the new film back into the cannister then measure the length of the marked spots which will be the same length of the bulk film to be cut from the bulk roll (in the dark). Have a good used 35mm cannister ready for reloading. cut bulk film from bulk roll, load onto 35mm spool, load into cannister, replace 35mm cannister lid in the dark and put bulk film back into bulk film can. Tadda, reloaded 35mm film roll is ready for shooting, reuse 35mm cannister for future use.
You need to address DX coding on the cartridge. "Modern" cameras that set the ISO automatically need the correct code, otherwise you need to make sure you manually overide the auto-ISO setting if it is not correct to your film. You can either use the correct ISO cartridge, or even buy stickers with the correct ISO DX coding. Us old-schoolers miss the free reusable 'pop-top' cartridges Ilford wound every roll of film into.
thats really not a issue though. it really is just as simple as turning a dial.... camera will let you know if it cant read the cassette. buying coded cassettes or stickers is very uneccessary.
I've never used the DX code on the cassette, only once on a compact camera where I made my own DX code from foil. Good shout though for compact users 👍
Been using my AP for about 5 years, suddenly today I can’t get the winding lever into place, it doesn’t go all the way… seems like the small knob in the hole for the lever stops the lever to go in, any ideas?
If using the bought Metal/Plastic reusable cassettes it's best to tape the top and bottom with a little black tape as they are prone to coming off when dropped or being removed from a camera and yes this is from personal experience oops
cut about 17cm of a duff roll, stick it to the film coming out of the cassette and then you save yourself a couple extra frames which is wasted by pulling the film across the film gate
Great video, very informative. I've considered this many times but when places like NTphotoworks sell vision 3 (all varieties - 30 frames) for just over £6 I wonder how long it would take to get your money back on the film loader. For me it would be more about controlling the process/availability than the cost.
I’ve just started to bulk load 200asa film I noticed my plastic cassette’s don’t have dx marks on them if I put in to a dx camera it will revert to 100asa To over come this I cut the dx from a metal cassette and latex it on contacts then put my plastic one on top works great
you could just set your camera to 200 iso though.... you dont need to be cutting and stuff to trick the camera. it would be way easier to just set your camera iso manually.
I'm thinking of using the reusable 35mm cassettes. Do you think it would be possible to simply cut a length of film from the roll in the dark bag and then tape directly on the cassette, hand roll, and put the cassette together all in the dark bag. Basically I want to not have to buy a loader.
Yeah it's possible Mike. I've never done it but it can't be that hard. Maybe fiddley. Just mind you don't scratch the film with the scissors inside the bag
Okay Roger, I'm convinced . I didn't want to invest in a bag of cassettes (too cheap). Now I'll pickup the dozen or so, of empty cassettes on the floor of my film loading area. Great idea, to reuse those cassettes. Any special tape to use ? Thanks, Ken.
We all were "conceived", otherwise we wouldn't be here! ;-) (Yeah, I know, it's an obvious typo, but it made me chuckle). But on a more serious note, as for the tape, I've had good results with any old sticky tape, as long as it was smooth and thin. You don't want anything that's thick as this will put unnecessary wear on the felt of the cassette.
Just don't use double sided Ken 😂... I've used sellotape, masking, electrical (that's a bit heavy) but as long as it sticks well and feeds through the cassette or you may find your camera won't advance it
If you really want to save money, quit wasting perfectly good film on leaders. I roll 36 frames into the cassette with a bit extra for tip and tail. I then use some old film and tape it on to the end for leader. That saves me 4 or 5 frames of film for every roll. If you normally get 18- 36 exposure rolls from a 100' roll, that is a total of 72 frames of film saved (18 X 4). That is two free rolls of film just for making the effort to tape on a piece of leader. Who would turn down a couple of free rolls of film? Keep the videos coming.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, I meant touching the film when feeding it into the bulk loader. But you're right, it'd be only the leader part being handled 🙂
I’m coming to this late, but I suspect the economics of bulk loading have changed since you made this video. Is it worth still it? Starting from scratch A new bulk film loader and 5 reusable cassettes will cost £63 A 30.5m roll of Kentmere 100 will cost £75 A single roll of Kentmere 100 36 exp will cost £5.04 of film. You should get 18 36 exp rolls from 30.5m roll. By my calculation after you’ve shot 70 36 exp rolls of film you’re savings will have paid for the reloading equipment. You’ll then start saving 90p per roll. All this assumes you only shoot one type of film. If you don’t, do you buy multiple bulk loaders or risk, changing the rolls in your loader? How many rolls of film do you shoot in a year? My calculations may be worst case scenario, but even if I’m out by 50% that’s still 35 rolls before you start saving. If you can get a loader for free, or buy a second hand one this will cut the number of rolls you need to shoot before the savings kick in. But you run the risk of the loader not working properly or worse still having a light leak. You might be better off talking to your film supplier about a deal for buying rolls of film in bulk. All that said, I do enjoy your channel so keep on keeping on!
Great one the AP loader, just know that the screw on the lid tends to loosen à kit after some use. It happenned to me recently while loading some film, the screw fell off with the lid.... fortunatly it took me a couple of seconds to put it back in place. The roll inside is so dense that only the border of the sprocket holes were exposed to light, what a relief ! Great way to save some money, at 4 euros à roll of36 frames of HP5 it is quite useful
Just load a heap of cassettes whilst you're watching TV. No time wasted. Works out cheaper plus you have the bonus of loading less frames for smaller shoots :)
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Thank you very much for taking the time to show visually with the duff roll how it works, very helpful for us beginners.
An important thing to note is the leader/end wastage is the same regardless of if there is 12/20/40. If you're bulk loading to keep the cost down longer length cassettes are more economical to develop and waste less film.
I totally agree, otherwise it would be about economical to buy them pre-loaded. I hear some say bulk loading is great for short film, I disagree, the economy is in loading 36 exposures.
True. At the same time bulk loading gives you the freedom to choose the length of film according to your needs. I find oftentimes that 36 pictures on a roll are more than I need for a photowalk or tour. Then I can wait till I my next tour -- or if I want my pictures the same day just take a few pictures I would otherwise not have taken just to finish the roll, which of course is also a waste.
You aren't wrong. But one thing to note that with that particular loader, the end wastage is essentially not a thing as when used properly, its so short it won't make it out of the cassette when loaded. Camera dependant of course.
When I was a newspaper photographer, we always just loaded rolls of 10 or 12, because we usually only needed a few shots, then had to develop them. Of course, the waste didn't cost us anything. That was all the paper's expense.
Good point to remember, though.
@@scottplumer3668 I remember those days. I remember getting the business packs with rolls of 12 exposures.
There was this guy on reddit who made a post about how film photography doesn't have to be expensive. His cost per roll was extremely low due to bulk loading Fomapan and using a well working, but basic €50 camera. The cost of doing 35mm photography can really vary by a factor of 10, depending on what you want to do.
Yes it can be Victor
Superb demonstration. An old camera shop in Dublin gave me a bulk film loader, its missing a crank but it seems easily replaced. Also, found out that these film loaders are like 100£+ 😱
7:00 Ahh the joys of having to learn to see with our hands!! The frustrating and ridiculous things us photographers do for our art!! LOL Great video and awesome explanation!! Thank you for making this video!!!
Thanks!
One tip for first timers is to use a length of duff film (or a strip of exposed negatives) to feed through the slot in the daylight beforehand to see how the mechanism works. Then try it with closed eyes. When you've got the hang of it in daylight, you can then do it in the dark with a bit more confidence. I tend to open the film loading bit too so I can twist the knob and feel it come through the gate to be absolutely sure it's engaged before putting the bulk roll in the loader and closing the back panel.
Old bulk loaders can be found cheap (mine was £3), but often the felt has degraded on them and needs replacing otherwise it could cover your film and the inside of your camera. 'feltless' loaders if used with feltless labyrinth cassettes means nothing touches the film's surface and so lowers the risk of scratches.
I have the same bulk loader and love it. I also do street photography. I started 2 years ago, you inspired me. Roger..
Roger you got a life time and probably a bit more a fixer test. 🤣 cheers mate 👍
Hey Peds 😂
Thank you!
I use Bulk film loader Watson 100. I like it because I can charge 36 frames or less. It is very comfortable.
4:51 from here onwards should also be done in the dark, some how! if you don't and god forbid you are using a watson type loader the last frame or two of your film will be fogged and heres the best bit... untiil you've loaded several rolls and god the knack you'll never know when your at the last frame, and that frame plus perhaps the one previous will be ruined!
Great video! Thank you very much. Someday I have to try out.
This video is brilliant the way you explained it with the demo film and the changing bag side by side!
Thanks Jonathan. Hope it helps
How important it is to show, not just tell. Very very good video!!
Thankyou!
I actually tape the film to the spool of a reusable cassette in the dark so I don't have the problem of the end of the film being exposed. I load all the film at one time onto cassettes, and cut the film in the dark. In doing so, I figure I save about 18 frames per 100ft roll
Nice. That's what I should do Pete, collect the twist off cassettes!
yes- load the cassette into the loader in the dark - especially with the Watson style loader which often causes you to lose half of the last frame because you have the longer reach to the winder handle - the one Roger is using looks like it exposes less of the length so may not be as big an issue
Great vid Roger, wish it had been about when I started bulk loading. Two things I want to say; 1, if anyone still has places like snappy snaps, the sort of place that does one hour colour processing, if you ask them about canisters chances are you'll walk out with a load. Back when Jessops was still operating I popped in, explained what I wanted them for and walked out with a sports direct big bag full to the bring of them. Granted, some were dented, but that was years and years ago and I'm still working my way through them.
2, I would suggest something like scotch tape for joining the film. I've found its just much nicer to use and didn't snag as often as other tapes I've used.
If you are using some fancy-pantsy camera that reads DX codes, don't forget to dial in your ISO manually, or use canisters from a film that had same sensitivity as the one you are loading!
The point of bulk loading to me isn’t really to save money (though that is a great benefit if you’re committed to one particular emulsion) but more to be able to use the the reloadable cassettes that are made for particular cameras, like the brass Leica FILCA or IXMOO - they are such a pleasure to use and particularly in the case of screwmount leicas, correct for a framing issue you will encounter if using a normal commercially available pre-loaded cart.
I also think it’s great for being able to try weird films you’d never have access to otherwise, for the more experimentally minded. Or just being able to stock up on your favorite film and deep freeze so you’re set for decades.
Very good demo thank you as iv always wonderd how the process works.
All the best Will
thanks a lot for the detail tutorial. sir.
Welcome!
I have a PFaff Watson bulk loader I’ve had since the 80s. Bought a legacy Pro and used a duff bit of film to try and feed it through , it was easy!- much easier than the Watson. Then of course I loaded my bulk film in the dark bag- actually got 3 bulk loader with film in one with some FP4 already in.
Bulk loading is an art :)
Where's Gaz?
Gaz got kidnapped I guess
Very nice demonstartion, Roger. I have never done this. Hmmm . Come to think of it, the initial outlay is rather too much for me, £75.00 for the loader, £170.00 for a tin of TriX.
Orwo un54 😊
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Wish someone would import some Orwo un54 to the states ! Your video about Orwo , has me super curious !
Beautifully done as always! Very informative especially with the visuals :D
Thankyou! 😊
Thanks for this. Very useful…..
My pleasure bud 🙂 Cracking vid with great information 🙂
Cheers mate 😗
I'm buying, repairing and testing a lot of old cameras. Albeit most of them are medium format, quite a few of them are 35mm format. Spending a whole new cassette for just testing purpose is a waste of material, time and money - and 12 pictures cassettes are not really available. So I got the idea to buy a bulk roll and make myself those 12 pictures cassettes. Now I'm on the search of a good bulk roll loader. That's, btw, is my idea to use your old roll: make a video testing and comparing different bulk roll loaders.
Great job Boss. Rolling your own is definitely the way to go! Enjoy your Tri-X 😃
Thanks! Just rolled my first, hope it worked out 😅
Good luck!
I bulk load almost exclusively, I use the bulk loaded film in my older rangefinders. I usually just use the Foma or Arista bulk film, but now that is becoming expensive.
Great video!!! I haven't done this since the 1970s, but i bought some bulk rolls and will be on my bulk adventure this summer!!! I hope I am not the Hulk when i try!!!
I do enjoy loading cassettes for some strange reason Brian lol
one tip, this is simmilar to the movie film reel winding, so, do as they do, PUT the TAPE on the can lid, so this doesn't get into any other places it shouldn't, and gum up the film loader, or other film holders/cassettes.
Thanks for this. Sorry about the death of the reel you're able to show in the light.
Well timed video, I'm just about to do some bulk loading myself!
Good luck Don!
When I use the Bob N Quick loader I put scissors inside the dark bag and cut a pointy end on the film before feeding into loader guide path . It just seems to work well for me till I gain more Bob N Quick experience .
I think thats what they say to do in the Manuel Foster.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Well awesome ! Lucky guess on my part , bought used no manual . Appreciate your videos I have watched . Intend to check out more ! After 20 years away from darkroom basically starting over . Thanks
the tail at the end is virtually all that you lose! for those of you hesitant to splash out on a bulk loader, you can do it all in a darkroom/bag without one, you just need a piece of string for the desired length, scissors, tape and empty cannisters (preferably the type you can open), then you load only onto the spool (to reduce resistance/friction/chance of scratching) then put spool into canister and job's a gooden. It can take considerably longer though, and sweaty hands can cause trouble so make a value judgement as to whether it's worth it)
I don't think I could bother Michael I'd be all fingers and thumbs trying to load the cassette in dark
One thing people need to take note of is to close the top lid, and plug the canister spinny thingy in as well or the film leader will somehow stuck and gets crushed.
Didn't know about that and I spent an hour+crushed about half-meter of Fomapan until I figure out there's something wrong.
I bulk load but have had issues with film not advancing smoothly. It seems to be more of a problem with rolls I load 10-15 frames. These I use when testing a new camera, lens or developer. This can result in overlapping frames, this is most common when using my small Nikons such as my FM, FE or FA. My F3 doesn't seem to be affected, I won't use bulk loaded film in my Retina due to it's delicate film advance.
That's strange Mathew. Only real problem I get is on my f6 or f5 it says end of film after halfway into the film. Obvs too tight loaded. But not often just sometimes.
I bulk load my own film and have for a while. I much prefer the watson style (your original one) to the AP style. I find them to be more fiddly. They do expose a little less film when loading but the watson style is just handier in the dark. I find that given the rise in bulk load film in BW that one doesn't save as much per roll as one used to. However, when shooting film like bulk Kodak Vision 3, one can save a lot of money over buying a roll pre-loaded. I think you did a great job presenting the loading process. I especially found the part where you are loading in the dark but showing a daylight version of what stage is going on at the time very useful. Nicely done and one of the better loading videos.
Thanks! 😊
This dull film could actually become the support for your own silver gelatine! I saw some tutorials on internet .
I feel like I should mension that you *can* bulk load film without a loader, I have not done this but what you can do is just pull out a bit of film from the roll tape it into the cassette and wind in by hand. Then put the bulk roll back in its light tight packaging. You can also use a fully mechanical SLR to rewind the film with the little crank rewinder thing.
Yes it's possible but i'm not sure myself if I would scratch the film and get into a mess inside the changing bag. I'd more than likely do it in my darkroom where I have space. I know some do!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss also while again I have never done this I have thought about it, if you ever intend to do this look up how to do it on on youtube since it may not be as simple as it seems to get the film taped on perfectly straight. And also practice with an old piece of film first (you can just cut a piece from that ruined roll.)
good video, how about using the 'duff' roll to show us how to load a 250 or 750 exposure back, you know the machine gun looking cartridge on the rear of cannons and the Nikon F2 film cameras, with the motor drive and the rest; as not too many videos are around on this, plenty on the cameras, the backs, accessories (including the 'winder' apparatus), then actually loading the 'cans' with film, then loading the back onto the camera.
I wonder how much of the exposed roll is actually damaged, considering how tightly it's rolled up. Obviously the region around the sprocket holes and the film around the outside... but how far would the light leak penetrate from there?
Exactly one thing I'd like to try Amalie! Edges would be shot but I reckon the frames would be okay!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'll look forward to the episode where you test it out 😁
great video, i have just ordred the ap bulk loader and a roll of fomapan 100. would it be easier to load if you cut the corners off, like loading a film on the spool of the developing tank?
If I had my way and hope for it to work perfectly, I would open a new roll of 35mm film cannister, place a long sheet of paper (4 feet long) on a table or bench in a room that can be completely dark without light, in the dark take the film out of the new 35mm cannister and place flat on the white paper then mark one end to the other, put the new film back into the cannister then measure the length of the marked spots which will be the same length of the bulk film to be cut from the bulk roll (in the dark). Have a good used 35mm cannister ready for reloading. cut bulk film from bulk roll, load onto 35mm spool, load into cannister, replace 35mm cannister lid in the dark and put bulk film back into bulk film can. Tadda, reloaded 35mm film roll is ready for shooting, reuse 35mm cannister for future use.
Whilst listening to pink Floyd 😊
Josef Koudelka loaded old Orwo cassettes with Orwo NP7 film (cinema variant of the NP27) and took many of his legendary pictures with it.
Nice going...
Cant wait for my 400ft spool of E100 to show up.
Sending you a portrait on insta...
You need to address DX coding on the cartridge. "Modern" cameras that set the ISO automatically need the correct code, otherwise you need to make sure you manually overide the auto-ISO setting if it is not correct to your film. You can either use the correct ISO cartridge, or even buy stickers with the correct ISO DX coding. Us old-schoolers miss the free reusable 'pop-top' cartridges Ilford wound every roll of film into.
thats really not a issue though. it really is just as simple as turning a dial.... camera will let you know if it cant read the cassette. buying coded cassettes or stickers is very uneccessary.
I've never used the DX code on the cassette, only once on a compact camera where I made my own DX code from foil. Good shout though for compact users 👍
90 % of my roll are self-wrapped.....
I have the AP and a glorious "Bobinatrice Z" Italian patent, simple and useful..
Been using my AP for about 5 years, suddenly today I can’t get the winding lever into place, it doesn’t go all the way… seems like the small knob in the hole for the lever stops the lever to go in, any ideas?
If using the bought Metal/Plastic reusable cassettes it's best to tape the top and bottom with a little black tape as they are prone to coming off when dropped or being removed from a camera and yes this is from personal experience oops
Definitely!
cut about 17cm of a duff roll, stick it to the film coming out of the cassette and then you save yourself a couple extra frames which is wasted by pulling the film across the film gate
Hi
What camera did you use in this video to show you loading the film ?
Thanks
Nikon F6 Alan.
Great video, very informative. I've considered this many times but when places like NTphotoworks sell vision 3 (all varieties - 30 frames) for just over £6 I wonder how long it would take to get your money back on the film loader. For me it would be more about controlling the process/availability than the cost.
I’ve just started to bulk load 200asa film I noticed my plastic cassette’s don’t have dx marks on them if I put in to a dx camera it will revert to 100asa
To over come this I cut the dx from a metal cassette and latex it on contacts then put my plastic one on top works great
That’s laid not latex !!?!!
you could just set your camera to 200 iso though.... you dont need to be cutting and stuff to trick the camera. it would be way easier to just set your camera iso manually.
@@orion7741
Hi yes but lots of modern film cameras don’t have manual settings for iso that’s why I mentioned it 👍
Yes I did omit the DX only cameras, sorry.
I'm thinking of using the reusable 35mm cassettes. Do you think it would be possible to simply cut a length of film from the roll in the dark bag and then tape directly on the cassette, hand roll, and put the cassette together all in the dark bag. Basically I want to not have to buy a loader.
Yeah it's possible Mike. I've never done it but it can't be that hard. Maybe fiddley. Just mind you don't scratch the film with the scissors inside the bag
Does the trix bulk comes in tin?
Yes it does.
Okay Roger, I'm convinced . I didn't want to invest in a bag of cassettes (too cheap). Now I'll pickup the dozen or so, of empty cassettes on the floor of my film loading area. Great idea, to reuse those cassettes. Any special tape to use ? Thanks, Ken.
We all were "conceived", otherwise we wouldn't be here! ;-) (Yeah, I know, it's an obvious typo, but it made me chuckle). But on a more serious note, as for the tape, I've had good results with any old sticky tape, as long as it was smooth and thin. You don't want anything that's thick as this will put unnecessary wear on the felt of the cassette.
@@TrashTheLens friggin auto spell. Thanks for the tip. KB
Just don't use double sided Ken 😂... I've used sellotape, masking, electrical (that's a bit heavy) but as long as it sticks well and feeds through the cassette or you may find your camera won't advance it
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks Roger. Great point.KB
If you really want to save money, quit wasting perfectly good film on leaders. I roll 36 frames into the cassette with a bit extra for tip and tail. I then use some old film and tape it on to the end for leader. That saves me 4 or 5 frames of film for every roll. If you normally get 18- 36 exposure rolls from a 100' roll, that is a total of 72 frames of film saved (18 X 4). That is two free rolls of film just for making the effort to tape on a piece of leader. Who would turn down a couple of free rolls of film? Keep the videos coming.
Is it worth it? 30m hp5 is now 139 euros while 1 roll of 36 exposures is 10 euros.very little difference
Nice video demonstration. Is it OK to touch the film with your fingers?
You mean prior to shooting? Of course. You're only touching the leader. Even then I've never seen my finger prints on film after washing.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Yes, I meant touching the film when feeding it into the bulk loader. But you're right, it'd be only the leader part being handled 🙂
ya no existe esa pagina saludos.
Why isn't color available in 100' rolls? I know you can get movie film in rolls, and use that for stills, but why no bulk rolls of Portra?
Good question! 🤷🏻♂️
I’m coming to this late, but I suspect the economics of bulk loading have changed since you made this video. Is it worth still it?
Starting from scratch
A new bulk film loader and 5 reusable cassettes will cost £63
A 30.5m roll of Kentmere 100 will cost £75
A single roll of Kentmere 100 36 exp will cost £5.04 of film.
You should get 18 36 exp rolls from 30.5m roll.
By my calculation after you’ve shot 70 36 exp rolls of film you’re savings will have paid for the reloading equipment. You’ll then start saving 90p per roll. All this assumes you only shoot one type of film. If you don’t, do you buy multiple bulk loaders or risk, changing the rolls in your loader? How many rolls of film do you shoot in a year? My calculations may be worst case scenario, but even if I’m out by 50% that’s still 35 rolls before you start saving.
If you can get a loader for free, or buy a second hand one this will cut the number of rolls you need to shoot before the savings kick in. But you run the risk of the loader not working properly or worse still having a light leak.
You might be better off talking to your film supplier about a deal for buying rolls of film in bulk.
All that said, I do enjoy your channel so keep on keeping on!
Great one the AP loader, just know that the screw on the lid tends to loosen à kit after some use. It happenned to me recently while loading some film, the screw fell off with the lid.... fortunatly it took me a couple of seconds to put it back in place. The roll inside is so dense that only the border of the sprocket holes were exposed to light, what a relief !
Great way to save some money, at 4 euros à roll of36 frames of HP5 it is quite useful
Never mind x-ray machines. Apparently the real danger to film is incompetent security agents.
Maybe take a changing bag with you in that case, and have the guard feel it in the bag, rather than opening it up.
😂😂
The film spool have a too big spool as core so the film will always scratch in the loader case
Ah, if only they sold 120 in bulk... would make a great use for all those otherwise useless paper backings we keep!
Wouldn't that be a treat Dane!
One should not more photograph than one could print in the darkroom ......
Thats me out then :)
OMG how much shooting time is wasted doing this. Just buy film already loaded and go shooting.
Just load a heap of cassettes whilst you're watching TV. No time wasted. Works out cheaper plus you have the bonus of loading less frames for smaller shoots :)