Nina Caprez: To Bolt Or Not To Be
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- Опубликовано: 28 ноя 2017
- Climbing To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock is like learning over 100 choreographed moves of a difficult dance. Nina Caprez shares her story of working her way up all 40 meters of perfectly smooth, vertical wall.
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Shout-out to Mathieu and Julien, the editing and cinematography was great: playful where it needed to be, yet respectful and focused on the climbing where it counted.
I don't think I've ever seen a front-flag like that (8:00). Absolutely beautiful technique!
You must be young... :)
(also Shauna Coxsey has been using it quite a bit in WC bouldering)
yessir / maim :)
Is a standard climbing technique lol...
that was THE move. I had to watch that like 5 times to even understand the movement. Incredible!!!
This is what i call my last chance before falling technique. Not sure if it was necessary or, even, better in this case.
Dream route. Amazing climbing and great edit!
Absolutely brilliant! Such amazing technique! Great climb!
Very well done (the send and the video!) The music and tight editing really make it something special.
Nina has a really great technique and climbing skill! Great inspiration!
Even though I don't climb, I really like to watch these videos with Nina... 👍🏻💪👍🏻💪👍🏻💪
We miss your videos they are always different, fun and inspiring to watch. Hope in 2018 we can see more challenging projects.
beautiful! My favourite climber and style, both in one video! Congrats Nina
Probably my favorite climber. Great skill, determination, and attitude.
Very nice and inspirational video. Thanks a lot for sharing. Best wishes from Finland.
Nothing better than getting arcteryx on Christmas morning 😇. Merry Christmas and thanks for making amazing products.
Great video, great climbing.
Nina is one of the best climbers out there!
I love how not being the spectacular and physical style of the most famous lines this is more beautiful as you see the grade of technique and precision needed
One of the best climbing videos I’ve ever seen!! Love it or hate it, technical face climbing is a huuuuge test of skill and patience. It really is a dance!! Sick send!!
Thanks! You can also watch "Orbayu", our other video with Nina...
Iam watching this an it just made my hole day so much better ,iam asking myself if I want to hike a trail of watch more climbing videos,um choices
See those 3 swallow nests under that ledge ,cool
Beautiful climbing and such commitment climbing in the snow, inspires me to stop being a wimp and brave some colder conditions 😂
Great climb; I can see the work and training that went into that climb. OK not all the footage was from your successful accent - but I've never seen a climbing video where that was the case. I liked seeing that you had to work on it; it was outside your comfort zone; but you got there in the end.
Iain
Really cool!!
Well done!!
Great video
That move at 7:59 !!! so good.
Quelle élégance ! C'est bien plus intéressant à regarder (et à grimper j'imagine) que ces grandes caves déversantes modernes où les mouvements se font par à-coups ! "L'intérêt de la grimpe c'est pas uniquement passer" disait Edlinger.
I love the Arcteryx films and stories of people they present.
I’m hooked
Best footwork I’ve ever seen.
Magic la vidéo.
6:02 really liked the editing there
Way to go! I tried 5.13 there and got shut DOWN!
Blimey, I think if I managed to get to the top of that route, I'd stay there for a bit, savouring it, rather than just lowering straight back down!
Nina sempre fantastica
This was amazing! But to whoever made this amazing video, isn't it possible to upload 4K so I can watch this in full glory?!
Nina sos hermosaaaaaaaaaaaaa😊 saludos desde Colombia
Delicate and beautiful!
I don’t watch a lot of women sport climbing but I enjoyed this one. Alex Puccio is usually my go to female climber
My crimps look like jugs after watching that
That's one beautiful slab! Are there more routes like this one in that crag in the 7+ range? Would love to try some.
yes there are, you should go, it's a rad place
Whenever I go to the USA this will definitely will be on my checklist. Thanks for the reply! And rad send, by the way! Beautiful technique.
And who put the slings?
7:58 those 3 nests in the right corner. Definitely not a "high traffic area"!!
NICE
Молодец!!!
well done video
Thank you! If you liked it, you can watch "Orbayu" our other video with Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat.
What happens when someone finishes a route like this? Do they just rappel down and leave the quick-draws? Are those quick-draws just left on the route permanently?
kobenoyashi
No you recollect them and someone put them in place beforehand
What is that music at 7:00 ? Nina seems to have all the great soundtracks in her Videos :D
searching as well
Yeah, I would also love to know!
A dream line!! with one of the best intros I've seen in a climbing movie. Very unfortunate that there is little (or zero) footage from the actual send. (I'm guessing only the few seconds with the fix line is from the send)
all the images where I'm wearing a red pullover are from the actual send
How all climbing videos should be
what's the purpose of the sanding paper at 5:47?
Sanding off the excess of a callus.
While crimping hard in cold temps, the skin on your joints could split off and then you would bleed. To avoid that, you sandpaper off the hard and dead skin at that spot. But anyways, it's a pain in the ass somehow...;-)
Ok merci de ta réponse Nina!
Peut-être qu'un jour j'aurai la chance de me poncer les doigts !
Definitely, Arc'teryx movies are something else ... (congrats to Nina by the way :))
Are those wasps nests at 7:45?
I think they are birds nests. the holes are pretty big.
Can someone in the world climb this route onsight or red point without yet fixed gear ? I don´t believe that! Fantastic workout!
Ondra didn't onsight it, so I think it's unlikely anyone else can right now.
Was he wearing belay glasses?
yes
🏇🇹🇷💯
Are there birds nests at the right of the route at 8:02 ?
In Germany climbing would be forbidden by the authorities. Probably at the complete rock :-/
Yeah, looks like swallows nests. If they were endangered, then the park would close the entire area during nesting season most likely.
Most scary bit of the route at 7:27. The three wasp hives pointing at your face on the RHS top corner. That is why zero degrees is the best temperature for the route. No way you are climbing there on warm wheather. Jees!!!!!!
Those are cliff swallow nests
@@markstevenson6635 yes you are right.
Two different shoes at 7:32 and at 7:40? Vapor vs from below and vapor laces from above. I understand the necessity of a story line and different angles in order to make it a good film, but just some slightly uncut footage of the actual send would be rad. It feels more like a big company production when the purity of the amazing line is lost. Regardless, sick send!!!
The day when it was snowing I sent, I had to give two burns. So on the first try (red pullover) I was wearing a vapor and on my secont burn (also in the red pullover) I had to wear another pair of shoes because you need such a stiff shoe for that route, that after one go you have to change shoe. That was hard to deal with.... So I've been filmed live on my first go where I had two falls (on a static rope) and then on the actual send from the bottom. So we used that two angles to edit the actual send. If you^re not happy with that, so then sorry...
I really appreciate the answer! I honestly hadn't thought of that and knowing that the climb was that dependent on little things makes it that much more cool. I'll keep that in mind when watching other climbing videos because that makes it that much more awe inspiring. - Love from the States
It's a short movie, not video proof of a sent. It's understood (and accepted within the community) that you have to "mount" a film based on different shots and the director's taste. Think of it more like an artistic approach instead of factual.
@@Iszil I think in general it would be nice to have a statement at the end clarifying this. On all films, not just this one (because almost all films have reenactments, splices from failed attempts, etc). Honnold's Free Solo film is a rare exception.
@@jrblackify 😂 no take 2
amiguitaaaaaaa todo bien pero la cadena se chapa de la última toma izquierda!!!! game over, cadena chapada fuera de la línea. esa vía la escale en el 2014 miamiauuuu
Who is the guy giving beta and belaying?
Bravo Nina ! Inspiring and always smiling ! @senasplage on instagram
Booooooring! Zzzzzz, zzzzzz, zzzzzzzzzz......
Then get the fuck outta here
I saw his chub. He liked the view from behind.