This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Can any body help? I have a Bosch Aqua Star 125 Fx LP . This was just installed brand new and it wont fire up. I have followed instructions on adjusting micro switch and still nothing. It will fire if water is running and you adjust micro switch but when you shut off water the fan keeps going and the igniter keeps trying to ignite every 20 sec. Can anybody help please?
This technician did a great job. The clarity of his presentation alone persuades me to buy Bosch over the Rheem and Rinai I am currently considering. Nice work.
+Bill Hart Same here, have propane models sold in Panama that do not work, they start then shut of after about 3 minutes like a thermo coupler issue. No customer service from Do It Center
I also have 2 1600 P tankless hot water units, nothing but trouble and Bosch company support is like they enjoy punishing their customer for buying their product. Most troublesome appliances I've ever seen. DON'T BUY BOSCH
bought a Bosch c800es when house was built in late 2008/early 2009... unit has worked very well from then (about the last 8 years). So I am inclined to disagree with several of the commentators below about Bosch 'sucking'. I only have 2 problems. When installed, (or prior I should say) I did a good bit of research on tank-less hot water heater both electric and natural gas and warranty and reliability, that being said, the following problems I have are that when the contracted plumber installed the unit, they did not use the right or HIGHLY recommended Isolation Ball Valve kit, (but not required, why Bosch would not require this is beyond me) be installed for the following reason: Per Bosch's own recommendation on performing a yearly maintenance on unit to 'descale' by flushing system with white vinegar. My builders subcontracted plumber did not install such valve (like Weber Ball Isolation valve kit) that has extra fitting that allows an external hook up (after closing off main water and then connecting hoses and an external pump and bucket to hold vinegar used to flush system to remove mineral/scale build up in system main copper heat exchanger and the condensation heat exchanger. And secondly, that the same plumber neglected to tell me that this unit (to maintain longevity) should be cleaned/flushed at least once a year. Sooooo. after 8 years of Awesome reliability, my unit sprang a pinhole leak on the main copper tank heat exchanger, where the copper tubing was sweated around the chamber due to mineral build up and the super-heating of water (which corroded the line). From what I have been able to gather, Bosch provides a 5 year limited warranty on the unit and IF CLEANED/descaled at least once a year, they will warranty both the main copper heat exchanger and the condensation heat exchanger for 15 years. I have purchased the direct replacement for the older C800 ES with a C1050 NS and ordered a WEBER ISOLATION BALL VALVE KIT (89.00) and will be replacing unit in the next week. I plan to video tape when I clean it with white vinegar not once but twice a year just in case I have a problem with my water, ( of which I am going to have tested for hardness/softness). So to any who wish to know, now you do...
Home Depot only sells Bosch electric tankless water heaters. Electric tankless need, on average, about 120 amps of power depending on the size of the unit. That means your home service should be about 200 amps. Take a look inside your breaker box and look at the very top circuit breaker. It should have the number 200 printed on it. If not than stay away from electric tankless water heaters. Go with natural gas or propane.
from my experience installing the takagi tankless water heater, the on off of hot then cold water is due to the fact........a tank water heater has less than one pound of pressure drop in the tank, a tankless water heater has over 4 pounds of pressure drop through the heat exchanger, causing the hot cold hot cold, when more than one water spout is working, to avoid this problem, u have to go all the way back to where the cold water comes into the structure, (house) cut the inlet water line, install a mono flow tee, take a dedicated water line directly to the tankless water heater and all the erratic hot then cold water at the spout will stop
Thanks for the review. So for making the decision on which to buy, one might just do a case-in-point analysis, generating a set of assumptions on anticipated water volumes per year etc., then calculate gas price from demand (previous month's gas bill for example), include avg natural gas price (current and projected) and then decide if the resulting figure (annual cost for example) seems reasonable. This stuff is awesome.
Have a nice holiday time! I have a question about the ventilation system, at the moment I have high efficiency furnace with two ventilation pipes going outside, the question is: can I, having a gas water heater, connect the exhaust system to the exhaust system of the furnace ?
I'm not a plumber. I installed a Bosch propane tankless water heater in a mountain cabin with gravity water feed at 4700' elevation over 10 years ago. It has never failed. The ignition component works great with the water flowing. I just bought another Bosch for our house in the mountains. I had a licensed plumber check my install 10 years ago and he stated it was "Just like I would have installed it"
Amazing video. I did order one and can't wait to start installing it. One thing I'm not clear is the "exhaust drain!"! what size drain and where does it drain to? what is going to drain? Is it only exhaust pipe? Thank you.
I've had a 1600 tankless for 5 years. It work good for 41/2 years. Now the water barely gets hot. I've moved the adjustment screws from all the way in to all the way out a little at a time. The flame is on. The manual is no help. No one services the units. Bosch can't even tell you who would work on it. What a waste of money.
George I don't know what your water is like but there is one thing that all tankless water heaters need. To be cleaned out via a flushing either with vinegar most plumbers do this and there are plenty of video's on how to do it. This flushing should be done every year depending on how hard you water is. For instance here in Southern California its about 17 grains of hardness. that's high so once a year you need to flush them no mater what make or model.
I'm curious about the drain tee. My inlet is straight in through the wall, the exhaust goes over about 4 ft, elbows up & out, and outside the wall I have a 1 ft vertical and another elbow angling 22.5 deg from the wall. Is the drain tee truly necessary? Or will the condensate just backflow through the unit. It wasn't really demonstrated but I notice the coil of tubing just beneath the drain tee - if anybody installs one that loop is necessary for an exhaust gas trap.
My aunt had someone install a tankless boiler in her home. When he installed it he put the exhaust pipe and the intake pipe directly in the chimney. The tank is supposed to be able to have enough hot water for 3-5 bathrooms but it's barely keeping up with one. Someone told us that the issue is that both pipes should not be in the chimney but should be directed to the outside as shown in your video, is this correct?
Your installer did a VERY WRONG thing by putting the intake and exhaust pipes into the chimney. As it is now, the exhaust fumes go into the chimney and the intake pipe sucks them right back into the water heater. The result is that the efficiency of the water heater drops dramatically, because the burner is getting contaminated air. AND, your aunt is also in danger from carbon monoxide buildup in the basement....... Whoever did this work should be reported authorities as a danger to everyone. He/she may be unlicensed and not know what to do.
Could anyone out there help me I have a Bosch two d battery powered tankless water heater cannot get power to the striker module new had tec out to it and still cannot this heater working
+BoschHeatingCooling I am located in Panama where all tankless run on Propane. Off the shelf both myself and a neighbor installed the Bosch and both the flow switch and thermo coupler seem to have issues. They are very temperamental when it comes to the usage of more than 1 fixture and they time out and shut down around 3 minutes after firing. I understand these are not quality units at around $200.00 but we both installed "ARC" brands that are working perfectly. I am a contractor from the states and have installed a couple of Rinnai units and contracted over 100 installed and they have been flawless on Natural Gas. The only hitch is I purchased those for about $900.00 each so I guess you get what you pay for.
Where would I be able to find (at Lowes or Home Depot) and what brand of neutralizer(that you mention in the video, for the condensate line) would you recommend for a Bosch C1050 NS (natural gas ) tankless hot water heater model. thanks. Mike
Michael Moran You will not be able to get a neutralizer at any of the big box stores. You will be able to purchase one at a plumbing wholesaler or on line.
@@Abundance172 there were two classes both lecture and actually hands-on tearing down a unit and going through with a multimeter performing test on components that could possibly go bad that you would have to replace in the future. They also gave you a little credit card size circuitboard that fit in place of the circuitboard on the unit so you have test out pins to easily apply your multimeter and follow the instructions makes it very easy Classes start at 7:30 AM 8 AM somewhere around there and we got out about 3 PM
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Can any body help? I have a Bosch Aqua Star 125 Fx LP . This was just installed brand new and it wont fire up. I have followed instructions on adjusting micro switch and still nothing. It will fire if water is running and you adjust micro switch but when you shut off water the fan keeps going and the igniter keeps trying to ignite every 20 sec. Can anybody help please?
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This technician did a great job. The clarity of his presentation alone persuades me to buy Bosch over the Rheem and Rinai I am currently considering. Nice work.
DO NOT BUY a Bosch. Very poor quality and bad customer support. I own two of them and both don't work. Save your money by buying something else!!!
+Bill Hart
Same here, have propane models sold in Panama that do not work, they start then shut of after about 3 minutes like a thermo coupler issue. No customer service from Do It Center
I also have 2 1600 P tankless hot water units, nothing but trouble and Bosch company support is like they enjoy
punishing their customer for buying their product. Most troublesome appliances I've ever seen. DON'T BUY BOSCH
bought a Bosch c800es when house was built in late 2008/early 2009... unit has worked very well from then (about the last 8 years). So I am inclined to disagree with several of the commentators below about Bosch 'sucking'. I only have 2 problems. When installed, (or prior I should say) I did a good bit of research on tank-less hot water heater both electric and natural gas and warranty and reliability, that being said, the following problems I have are that when the contracted plumber installed the unit, they did not use the right or HIGHLY recommended Isolation Ball Valve kit, (but not required, why Bosch would not require this is beyond me) be installed for the following reason: Per Bosch's own recommendation on performing a yearly maintenance on unit to 'descale' by flushing system with white vinegar. My builders subcontracted plumber did not install such valve (like Weber Ball Isolation valve kit) that has extra fitting that allows an external hook up (after closing off main water and then connecting hoses and an external pump and bucket to hold vinegar used to flush system to remove mineral/scale build up in system main copper heat exchanger and the condensation heat exchanger. And secondly, that the same plumber neglected to tell me that this unit (to maintain longevity) should be cleaned/flushed at least once a year.
Sooooo. after 8 years of Awesome reliability, my unit sprang a pinhole leak on the main copper tank heat exchanger, where the copper tubing was sweated around the chamber due to mineral build up and the super-heating of water (which corroded the line). From what I have been able to gather, Bosch provides a 5 year limited warranty on the unit and IF CLEANED/descaled at least once a year, they will warranty both the main copper heat exchanger and the condensation heat exchanger for 15 years.
I have purchased the direct replacement for the older C800 ES with a C1050 NS and ordered a WEBER ISOLATION BALL VALVE KIT (89.00) and will be replacing unit in the next week. I plan to video tape when I clean it with white vinegar not once but twice a year just in case I have a problem with my water, ( of which I am going to have tested for hardness/softness).
So to any who wish to know, now you do...
Home Depot only sells Bosch electric tankless water heaters. Electric tankless need, on average, about 120 amps of power depending on the size of the unit. That means your home service should be about 200 amps. Take a look inside your breaker box and look at the very top circuit breaker. It should have the number 200 printed on it. If not than stay away from electric tankless water heaters. Go with natural gas or propane.
from my experience installing the takagi tankless water heater, the on off of hot then cold water is due to the fact........a tank water heater has less than one pound of pressure drop in the tank, a tankless water heater has over 4 pounds of pressure drop through the heat exchanger, causing the hot cold hot cold, when more than one water spout is working, to avoid this problem, u have to go all the way back to where the cold water comes into the structure, (house) cut the inlet water line, install a mono flow tee, take a dedicated water line directly to the tankless water heater and all the erratic hot then cold water at the spout will stop
Thanks for the review. So for making the decision on which to buy, one might just do a case-in-point analysis, generating a set of assumptions on anticipated water volumes per year etc., then calculate gas price from demand (previous month's gas bill for example), include avg natural gas price (current and projected) and then decide if the resulting figure (annual cost for example) seems reasonable. This stuff is awesome.
Have a nice holiday time! I have a question about the ventilation system, at the moment I have high efficiency furnace with two ventilation pipes going outside, the question is: can I, having a gas water heater, connect the exhaust system to the exhaust system of the furnace ?
Maybe having a table to put the parts on might have been a bit helpful
Why not just pre stick the gaskets at the factory?
I'm not a plumber. I installed a Bosch propane tankless water heater in a mountain cabin with gravity water feed at 4700' elevation over 10 years ago. It has never failed. The ignition component works great with the water flowing. I just bought another Bosch for our house in the mountains. I had a licensed plumber check my install 10 years ago and he stated it was "Just like I would have installed it"
Amazing video. I did order one and can't wait to start installing it. One thing I'm not clear is the "exhaust drain!"! what size drain and where does it drain to? what is going to drain? Is it only exhaust pipe? Thank you.
Very well work and explanation how to installation .
Thanks you.
Jose Vilca
I've had a 1600 tankless for 5 years. It work good for 41/2 years. Now the water barely gets hot. I've moved the adjustment screws from all the way in to all the way out a little at a time. The flame is on. The manual is no help. No one services the units. Bosch can't even tell you who would work on it. What a waste of money.
George I don't know what your water is like but there is one thing that all tankless water heaters need. To be cleaned out via a flushing either with vinegar most plumbers do this and there are plenty of video's on how to do it. This flushing should be done every year depending on how hard you water is. For instance here in Southern California its about 17 grains of hardness. that's high so once a year you need to flush them no mater what make or model.
Beware: Bosch 2400 "Inside/Outside" unit does not work outside. You will have A3 errors constantly.
I'm curious about the drain tee. My inlet is straight in through the wall, the exhaust goes over about 4 ft, elbows up & out, and outside the wall I have a 1 ft vertical and another elbow angling 22.5 deg from the wall. Is the drain tee truly necessary? Or will the condensate just backflow through the unit. It wasn't really demonstrated but I notice the coil of tubing just beneath the drain tee - if anybody installs one that loop is necessary for an exhaust gas trap.
I like a electric storage system .last for years with no trouble . The cylinder in my old house was installed in 1960 .
My aunt had someone install a tankless boiler in her home. When he installed it he put the exhaust pipe and the intake pipe directly in the chimney. The tank is supposed to be able to have enough hot water for 3-5 bathrooms but it's barely keeping up with one. Someone told us that the issue is that both pipes should not be in the chimney but should be directed to the outside as shown in your video, is this correct?
Your installer did a VERY WRONG thing by putting the intake and exhaust pipes into the chimney. As it is now, the exhaust fumes go into the chimney and the intake pipe sucks them right back into the water heater. The result is that the efficiency of the water heater drops dramatically, because the burner is getting contaminated air. AND, your aunt is also in danger from carbon monoxide buildup in the basement....... Whoever did this work should be reported authorities as a danger to everyone. He/she may be unlicensed and not know what to do.
Bahaha what an idiot. So it's just venting exhaust directly into the fresh air intake. Yeah, that about the most inefficient thing you could do.
Could anyone out there help me I have a Bosch two d battery powered tankless water heater cannot get power to the striker module new had tec out to it and still cannot this heater working
Hello Neville, thank you for contacting us. Could you please send us your contact information via Google+, and our representative will contact you.
+BoschHeatingCooling
Service is terrible
Hello Richard, could you give us your contact information with more details about your experience?
+BoschHeatingCooling I am located in Panama where all tankless run on Propane. Off the shelf both myself and a neighbor installed the Bosch and both the flow switch and thermo coupler seem to have issues. They are very temperamental when it comes to the usage of more than 1 fixture and they time out and shut down around 3 minutes after firing. I understand these are not quality units at around $200.00 but we both installed "ARC" brands that are working perfectly. I am a contractor from the states and have installed a couple of Rinnai units and contracted over 100 installed and they have been flawless on Natural Gas. The only hitch is I purchased those for about $900.00 each so I guess you get what you pay for.
throw it away bosch sells cheap knock offs
Where would I be able to find (at Lowes or Home Depot) and what brand of neutralizer(that you mention in the video, for the condensate line) would you recommend for a Bosch C1050 NS (natural gas ) tankless hot water heater model. thanks. Mike
Michael Moran You will not be able to get a neutralizer at any of the big box stores. You will be able to purchase one at a plumbing wholesaler or on line.
can i use the current electric heater i have to store my solar hotwater and connect this gas unit
instead of copper piping can pic line be used?
Very informative! Great job.
Have a problem with it getting hot
Excellent video.
always buy a tankless water heater that has 100 percent copper heat exchanger, hard water deposits cannot collect on the sides of copper pipe
Does the exhaust vent need to be stainless steel? It looks like you are using PVC pipes.
you do not use the same type of tape on gas as on water.
Carl Engele vyfgjbd g n lgdf
good video, thx, i attended your BOSCH tankless class, this video is a good backup and reference when installing first BOSCH tanlless water heater.
How long was the class I’m interested in attending in the near future
@@Abundance172 there were two classes both lecture and actually hands-on tearing down a unit and going through with a multimeter performing test on components that could possibly go bad that you would have to replace in the future.
They also gave you a little credit card size circuitboard that fit in place of the circuitboard on the unit so you have test out pins to easily apply your multimeter and follow the instructions makes it very easy
Classes start at 7:30 AM 8 AM somewhere around there and we got out about 3 PM
@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks for the information I totally appreciate it