I have a toyota yaris that was using a lot of oil spark plugs black I bought a pcv valve from toyota the engine is running smoother I am checking the oi consumption looking good only problem only toyota sell the pcv cost £30 ouch if it cures the problem I don't mind
This video may have helped me solve my '96 Olds 88 rough idle problem. I replaced plugs, wires, cleaned fuel injectors to no avail. But after viewing this video I hunted down the valve (it's hidden under the MAP sensor) and replaced it. The valve did not move freely. Total cost $3.21! Idle is better and I'm hoping oil consumption will improve too. Thanks!
Funny thing is my old man had the 89 olds 88 n he had the same problem and replaced the same things as you did. I was 12 n saw my dad, my brother in law, and my old neighbor sitting in the engine bay tearing out parts. I’m now 41 and have faced my share of rough idle, if I can only go back in time. Lol
Sometimes the valve can rattle and still be bad..for what it's worth just change it with original part and clean your Mass Air flow sensor as well.. These 2 are very crucial to optimal engine performance and are soooo overlooked even by experienced mechanics...make these a part of your routine preventative measures along with on time oil changes, throttle body cleaning, air and gas filters changes..RPM is soooo crucial to these newer piece of crap GDI engines..
Great Video as always!! The only thing is try not to use gloves when checking the vacuum on the pcv. I had a small piece tear off and suck through my pcv valve. The force was strong in my truck!!
I very much enjoyed your video on the PCV valve; it explained how the valve functions in regular everyday terms without getting caught up in the jargon. Nice, simple and it made sense to someone who is not a motorhead. Well done!
One of the first thing a young car guy learns about is how a bad pcv can muck things up and cause problems that aren't always easily discernible. Thank you for the full and clear explanation. Always glad to learn new things from your channel.
Thank you so much for the explanation of the PCV valve, I usually do all of my own work but my wife’s car is still under warranty so I let a garage (warranty approved garage) work on the car idling bad at stop and stalling a little while going down the road. They told me it was the left side valve cover gasket letting oil into the intake. I had to see if this was correct. Through your video you explained how this can happen. They should have just told me the PCV valve though. I really like your page and very detailed for us DIY’s out here.
Every 2yrs or 18,600miles or 30,000kms 👌 I just replaced mine from the Honda dealership it was only $36 for my 06 RSX. My RSX is better on fuel mileage now.
Yo just be careful on older cars, these get brittle over time and will crack into tiny pieces. I changed mine out and my car went from smoking to a much cleaner burn. No more smoke and it's a cheap parts. Well worth it.
Check the maintenance schedule on your vehicle owner's manual. Some manuals call for inspection and replacement of the PCV valve at certain mileage or years. Mine calls for replacement at 100k miles. Obviously earlier if it fails prematurely.
Went to change my wife's PCV valve a few years back, simply because of mileage. Genius Toyota put it under the intake manifold and on her car, it requires removing the whole front clip, radiator, and starter to take the manifold off. Lord help me if that thing ever actually fails. Of course on my DODGE, it's right on top of the engine...2 minute job.
I had an issue with a 01' Firebird. I was fixing everything on it trying to figure out the issue. Went as far as a doing a complete head gasket replacement. It wasn't until I was putting everything back together that I noticed how nasty the intake manifold was. Yep it was a damn 5 dollar pcv that was causing the biggest of the issues. That said it was good to do the complete head gasket replacement as it was 160k and looked like it was starting to go. I swear it gain back a few ponies as I also polished the valves and heads.
Thank you for the video and great explanation. My husbands truck hasn’t been sounding right on the highway. I drove it yesterday and the “low oil pressure” light came on and then went right back off. I decided to check the oil- ZERO oil on the dipstick. Did some research and tested the PCV valve, zero suction. Waiting on hubby to bring me the part- I’m just hoping no damage occurred. I had no previous knowledge that something so simple could prevent major issues
Nice tutorial. If I may add: I was thought that the main reason for the spring operated valve inside the unit was to prevent flames from backfired carburetor to go back and ignite the air fuel mixture in the crankcase. In old engines with carburetors, a backfire flame can travel through intake manifold through the hose back to the valve cover and down to the oil pan area. Thus, the name Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. Otherwise a one-way valve. Before PCV valves on engine, there was a draft tube that vented the unburn air and fuel mixture to the atmosphere. This produced smog. With fuel injector systems on cars, there is very little if any chance of backfire. There is still a need to remove unburned air/fuel mixture from the crankcase. A small spray of carb cleaner can go a long way to keep the valve working.
How often do these need to be replaced? Does the tension on the spring wear out after awhile? I own a honda 2012 civic with 150km I dont think. Ive ever replaced mine
Ive been lucky enough on my vehicles over the years, the PCV valves are easily accessible. When i do my oil changes, i remove the valve and spray a little carb cleaner in there to flush any residue out. Havent had an issue with one yet... Great explanation of the PCV system.
That's pretty good explanation. Except you didn't address what causes the PCV to fail. For that we need to go to an old marketing and advertising slogan... People who know use Valvoline. What do they know? All oil contains paraffin wax. As that paraffin gets separated under high heat conditions it gets sucked into the upper part of the engines and is allowed to cool. Leaving the paraffin content behind. Which builds up on small components such as that little spring loaded valve. In order to stop this buildup a low paraffin content oil should be used. And there's only one of those on the market. Valvoline. Quaker State Pennzoil Castrol and most of your synthetics, are very high paraffin content oils. Most of your synthetics are almost straight paraffin. This paraffin builds up all over inside the engine including the oil passages themselves. When the PCV is stuck in the closed position, those Vapors push the oil out of the seals through least path of resistance. Which is the same principle as electronics use for flow of current. In the case of an engine, those weak seals are the ones that surround rotating components, such as the front and rear main seal of the engine. However, that paraffin will also build up on top of the Pistons. And after the detonation of the spark plug, that oil can smolder on top of the piston. So when the air fuel ratio is introduced into the combustion chamber it's can be ignited before the spark plug. This is called predetonation. Which will in turn, burn holes in the top of the Pistons thus leading to insufficient compression. Which looks like what was happening, or about to happen on those pistons in your display engine. It is literally Murphy's Law that says a $0.10 fuse will destroy a $50 relay every time. In this case your PCV valve is the $0.10 fuse. And all of the components destroyed by lack of crankcase ventilation, is your $50 relay. Literally, I $3.95 part will save you thousands in engine repair when maintained regularly. Which in most cases is anywheres from 5 to ten thousand miles. Personally, as a professional mechanic, I love it when you don't change your PCV valve. Because I'm going to charge you $75 an hour to fix all the damage it has caused. In most cases, just to take the engine out of the car, you're going to be billed 6 to 10 hours depending on the year make and model. And you have to take the engine out of the car, or the transmission, to replace that rear main seal. There's no shortcut around it. And there is nothing on the Shelf at AutoZone that is going to stop that rear seal from leaking. There are no pills in the automotive industry. There's only one way to fix a problem. The right way the first time. You need to make a decision. Do you want to change the $3.95 PCV valve? Or do you want me taking your engine out of your car, putting $500 in seals in it, and putting it back in for around $2,000? Did you notice, he did not hook up a computer to find this problem? That's because you can't. In fact, that least path of resistance thing that I said earlier... Could be out the side of a knock sensor or an oil pressure sensor or an oil level sensor. So now we're not just talking about seals... Now we're talking about cheap China sensors. A 5-cent diode... That I'm going to charge you upwards of a hundred and fifty bucks to replace. Cam position sensors, crank position sensors... Oil is a corrosive on plastic. And it wipes those out too. As a mechanic the best advice I can give you is, find someone that you can trust to help you with the maintenance of your vehicle. Make sure that they are knowledgeable and at least State Certified. Keep in mind that mechanics solve these problems every day. Where is your plumber painter electrician construction friend... May have never solved this problem at all.
The following website, posted by a Valvoline wholesale distributor, addresses various “Motor Oil Myths & Facts” including differences in types of oil, causes of sludge, filter change requirements, oil change intervals, etc.: www.whitfieldoil.com/156.631 In essence, and according to this Valvoline distributor, not me, paraffins are separated from crude oil in the refining process and are not present in any modern motor oil that meets current OEM requirements. That being said, if for any reason, you have a sludge build-up in your engine, as is common with blocked PCV valves and in vehicles with GDI (direct gasoline injection into combustion chamber) engines, the cure is as outlined by Reel Tech.
Not every engine has to be removed to replace a rear main seal. On the mustang you drop the tranny, clutch, flywheel, etc, take off the plate, and replace the rear main seal. Of course theres mote steps than that, but ChrisFix has a video showing how to do it.
I just went through this same thing on a '98 Ford Contour 2.0. On this one they made it where it's really difficult to get to. It is not on a valve cover it is in the crankcase, under the exhaust manifold. There's no way to get to it without removing the e manifold. The valve cover vents into air intake. Repairing both, valve was clogged, now working and the other hose from the valve cover was rotted. It still has crankcase pressure. At idle remove the oil fill cap and it feel it blow out a lot of pressure. Seals are leaking, they stopped for awhile when I repaired pvc system but pressure is back. And, as you said, vacuum only happens at idle, I can only imagine the pressure get worse above it. Told this customer it a goner.
Sadly the PCV on my Mazdaspeed 3 is under the freaking intake manifold. Every other car it's on the valve cover. But no, Mazda decided to hide it under the damn intake. SIGH!
So idle, high vacuum, pcv check valve fully open, pushes against spring. Throttle plate starts to open, vacuum begins to taper off. Full throttle, pedal to the metal 😂, no vacuum, spring is able to push check valve closed. So pcv opens/closes opposite to throttle pedal postion, is that correct?
*Guy, while the PCV valve has been engineered into the system, I invite you to try to simply plug the PCV valve. This information is inaccurate, as you don't even MENTION the Breather Hose! That's where the blow-by will be exiting. I've plugged this valve THOUSANDS of times with ZERO negative events. In fact, I've had so many POSITIVE reports you would be AMAZED!*
Correct ,it's a gizmo fitted entirety for emission control (like the cat)and it's effect is debatable as oil vapour still gets burned instead of venting -it will cause trouble when stuck close -all older cars used a straight forward pipe and with a wire mesh at the tappet cover intake ,a green gizmo to prevent venting but burns oil vapour anyway that lands up in the air anyway and fouls up the top of the motor when blow by becomes exessive at which time an oil catch can make sense
In my opinion, if your car is 10 years old or more, does have a PCV valve and is not a pain to replace, doit. The valve costs about 5 bucks or even less, and the grommet about 3 bucks or less... just replace the valve AND the grommet and you could even restore some of that lost mileage!... (or so some utubers claim) cheers! cheers!
5 bucks for a new PCV valve? Lucky man.. In my country there are genuine PCV valve available, that costs me 70 bucks, plus a new PCV hose for 40 bucks.. It's a 2002 Ford Focus 1.8
@@flycorvus bro here in South Africa a pcv valve for my Renault scenic ii is around 80 US dollars. And it's only a piece of plastic with a spring and rubber diaphragm... Never buy it. Catch can is almost half the price☺
This is great information! i have the very symptoms you mention, and its only a $10 fix- and requires no tools!!! I’m pulling no codes, but there’s gas smell in the oil, a new oil pan leak, and a new valve cover leak, and i feel like performance could improve slightly. THANK YOU! /2002 Lexus RX300
Another overlooked item is the differential breather valve that releases the pressure inside the differential if it gets plugged up it blows out the seals from your axles
Even without blow by, the pistons have the same effect on the crankcase as they do inside the head. Each stroke exerts either positive or negative pressure (compression or vacuum) on the crankcase just as it does in the head, which is why it needs a way to breathe. Manufacturers want you to buy a new car every few years. They could care less about blow by caused by worn rings/cylinders
Great info! Never heard Scotty screaming about it LOL. Was worried that my engine is about to blow, because the car is old, but since it has an Ecotec engine it should be fine. Thanks again!
@@loudring6247 well it breaths next to oil pan and doesn't freeze up on winter time ( live in Finland) even vithout electric heater coil. Of course there there is some oil stains, so surroundings need to clean with brake cleaner for annual inspection... 😊
I have a Ducati sport bike and recently I pulled OFF the crankcase vent tube that goes back into the throttle body. It's on there 4 smog purposes and I don't want unburnt fumes going back n2 my engine plugging up my engine...
these PCV were designed super cheap to be replaced easily - However the new fancy PCV systems these days let in a lot of oil mixed with the air to cause dirty intake valves...
Dont you think that stuck closed pcv valve will not show any symptoms? Simply, through the ventilation hose, the blow by gases will pass before the throttle body. Is it possible?
Hi Sir, I have sonata 2015, when i drive above 100km/h speed. Engine some times stopes automatically while running and then starts up again after a short while. It has automatic transmission and when its starts back rpm goes upto 6thousands which creats too much noise and jolts the car. Need your guaidance to get rid of this. Thanks
If you have a MAP based system instead of an MAF based system then if the pcv was stuck in the open position that would decrease manifold vacuum and fool the computer into thinking the engine is under load which would make the ECU raise the idle speed.
Just got done reconditioning a Honda H22 with all new seals, timing components, etc. Installing into the car after it was on the road I kept noticing oil coming out of the new distributor seal, vtec solenoid gasket and cam seals - all the head seals. Replaced the PCV valve and I'm not seeing oil seepage in the day I;ve driven it thus far. Amazing what a $15 part can do...
Wonderful explanation. At this point, the better explanation for a PCV. Thank you! Not to sound sarcastic, but I learned based on how you test them (which makes sense) I have wasted about $8-10 replacing this valve needlessly. Thankfully though, they are cheap!
what happens if the PCV valve or breather are not connected to the manifold? I have been trying to restore my gf's truck (1999 GMC Yukon) for over a year. Doing many fixes it needed: spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and many others. But about 2 months ago, when we finally decided to give it life again, it started rough, idles roughly, and when we step on the gas, it seems like its going to die on us. I found a hole (now I believe its either the PCV valve or breather) that had duct tape over it. Could this be why the truck doesn't want to run as it should, the pcv valve or breather is missing?
Obviously find ur manual or another video with ur exact car and find out what exactly that hole is. But yes, if it is in fact no Pcv valve or breather . It would cause it to start and run a bit more rough. If you let ur warm up and run for a while I’m sure you’d smell oil if that’s the case as well .
Lool, I have an Audi A4 B7 2.0 TDI 170HP engine and I am having, MAF sensor code, lack of perfomance under 3000RPMs and plenty of black smoke. I inspected many things and next is the PCV valve now, Im doing research on the internet. And when you said that the oil dipstick can get pushed out I became pretty certain that this is my issue, because mine was pushed out and I am sure I didnt leave it like that, and I also have oil coming out from the pcv valve. What do you think, is that it? The car suddenly lost power after accelerating a littlebit harder, so I suppose after the acceleration the PCV valve got stuck in a closed position, right? Does this sludge get cleaned over time if the PCV valve is fixed?
Hey you're awesome! I'm glad I follow you on here. Im gonna go check my PCV valve. My car acts like it has a vacuum leak, sometimes it idles rough, sometimes it drives fine. I can't find a vacuum leak. It is throwing an MAF code but I have changed my MAF several times. Ideas?
A PCV clog caused oil to go up my dipstick tube, which caused me to run low on oil despite regularly checking the dipstick. It doesn't look like there was any terminal damage but a few thousand miles longer and I would've probably destroyed my crankshaft journals. This part isn't talked about often enough. Its often cheap and easy to replace and the consequences of its failure can be devastating - so it should really be checked regularly.
Thanks for the video - very helpful. Could you do a follow-up on the EGR/crankcase ventilation systems of more recent vehicles that have no PCV valve, but which do have a PCV tube and an EGR system (with solenoids, etc.). For example, I have a 2010 Equinox with a direct injection gasoline 2.4L engine; as a group these engines suffer from excessive oil use, carbon build up on the intake valves and in the intake manifold caused by high internal crankcase pressures and blow-by; many of these engines will blow the rear oil seals because of the high pressure. While there are supposed to be extended warranties on the affected vehicles, this extended warranty coverage is almost always denied, because the affected vehicle is not on some pre-selected list created by GM. This comment is not about GM - it is simply a request that you show the average owner of such a vehicle what she or he can do to deal with the problem, whether it is adding a catch can to remove and store the excess oil, cleaning or enlarging the PCV hole in the intake manifold, adding a vent tube or an old fashioned PCV valve to reduce blow-by pressure, or something else. A lot of modern car owners have this problem, and there must be a simple, relatively inexpensive cure which doesn’t screw up the electronic fuel and air flow controls on the modern engine. Thanks for your videos and for your consideration of this request.
This is a great vid. The symptoms matched unexplained problems on our RAV4. Turns out this is a common problem for that car. Thank you for your videos and how you demonstrate and explain. Like your style.
I have oil leaks behind top left of tsi engine vw Tiguan 2013. Top of the piston and spark plug is carbon. Exhost was Can on and black. Taking noise. But the OBD2 DOES NOT SHOW ANY PCV errors. It just shows p000a Wich I cleaned the magnet vvt and error gone. I had misfire which it's fixed by injector cleaner I put last week . I have check gage oil vacuum that was good. Can anyone knows What is the problem? Is it possible car had these problems and obd2 could not show cods?
Mine went bad and caused all kinds of problems, including the smoke from the tail pipe, and it even got oil all the way to the air filter, and killing the maf sensor.
Before i watch the video, im gonna guess thats the PCV valve? Yeah, its a cheap plastic part, and i cant count how.many fixes to a customers problem was just replacing the valve and the cracked/hard/split hose attaching to it. Really cheap repair for something that feels catastrophic when you first experience symptoms... as long as you get it done before it causes additional issues... lets see, i like testing myself like this😊 rule of thumb for us, is remove the pcv valve and shake it, if you csnt feel the ball rattling/shaking, it definitely needs replaced (even if it 'seems' to shake ok, it doesnt mean it isnt bad, but if you cant shake the ball portion of the valve its a pretty dead givaway thay its not working. Misfires, idle seeking (usually from a vacuum leak, usually from the split hose connecting the pcv), low/rough idle, engine shutting off, list goes on... its crazy how cheap, yet how massively impactful that little plastic valve is. The EGR is another one ive experienced a lot of issues with on late 90's honda accords (possibly civics too, i know, but it definitely affected the Honda 2.3 L engine. The EGR fails, and the intake system on those has to be completely disassembled and cleaned out, the air passages get gunked closed with REALLY bad symptoms. I kinda miss working with those imports so often.
Someone please comment on this. I went from a struggling idle that would die if I let up on the gas, to a roaring 1+ RPM and practically double the exhaust force just after popping out this little valve and spray cleaning it with carb cleaner, and snapping it back in. I would have never expected that in a million years. The only problem is my muffler is now popping constantly. I have my O2 sensors disconnected because I was testing them (they are rusted in and I don't know if I can get them out to replace) but they were out before everything was exactly the same. I'm completely amazed that this little valve did this. Maybe its stuck open now?
On competition engines there are are breather filters on top of the valve covers to vent the pressure. The filters are there to prevent debris from entering the engine but not to obstruct the vapors coming out of the engine. These vent directly to atmosphere. It is very important to not let the vapors build up pressure in the engine as he mentioned.
To understand: what force cause the PCV spring works (open/close)?... the vacuum or the pressure of the crankcase? .... because I have problem: I saw high vapor come out from the oil cap. wonder why! ..... I replaced with a after marker pcv valve 2 month ago. some one told me maybe i have blowby problem. I know what cause too much blowby, but before go throw the piston ring I wonder if with a oil catch can can fix this. But my question is, the pcv valve maybe is defective and no working properly to release that pressure??? PLEASE HELP !!!
Great, informative video! My car smokes on deceleration only and I thought that the PCV valve could be the culprit, so I replaced it with a new one. However, that did not make a difference. The engine in the car was professionally rebuilt three years ago, so I wouldn't think that there are worn out piston rings yet... I attached an oil catch can in the line that connects the rear valve cover to the intake manifold, but it hasn't collected almost anything in two years. I also rebuilt the turbos last year, so they shouldn't be causing the problem either. Could you please provide me with some clue as to what could be causing this smoking on deceleration? My car is a '95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4. Thanks in advance!
I feel like the RUclips's algorithm knows what's wrong with my car😦 i keep getting videos telling me what exactly is "happening" as it's happening in "real time". 🤯 it's only a matter of time before A.I. will predict the future and no longer just be recognized as A.I. but as T.I. (The Intelligence). Food for thought.
I have a 2007 ford five hundred and i see smoke coming from the engine but theres no overheating and idles a bit rough. I got code P0443 which i think said its for the purge control valve for the EVAP system, and i also got a P0106 which is for the MAP sensor, does anyone know if thats why theres white smoke cming from the engine?Or if anyone knows what else could be wrong or what is REALLY going on? Thanks
If the PCV valve fails closed or otherwise is there a potential for oil and gasses to exit through the breather side of the PCV system? I have a 2013 f150 3.5L EcoBoost(60000Mi) and the driver side turbo fresh air intake pipe is the tap off for the PCV fresh air into the crank case. I can see oil weeping from at the turbo output piping connections and wonder if the PCV system could be putting oil out that way?
I have a Honda Pilot with a rough idle and some misfiring with a check engine light saying my catalytic converters were bad. I did a tune up with spark plugs, air filter, oil change, etc. Still had the same problems so I started cleaning sensors like intake temp sensor, MAP sensor, etc. Still had the same problems. After watching this video I decided to check the PCV valve and that was bad!!! I looked inside the intake manifold and there was pooling of engine oil and it was covered with a fine layer of oil. I took out the intake manifold to clean it and replaced the PCV valve. Now I have smooth idle, no misfiring, and the check engine light for my catalytic converter is off. The dealership just wanted to replace the cats for $3k. The problems the Pilot had was just a faulty 35 dollar PCV valve.
this PCV is positioned for the blow-by coming out of the crankshaft on your 2001 DodgeRam. I'm trying to test a PCV on a 2001 Allroad 2.7T which is connected to the Y-pipe on the intake side of the system. I have purchased a used replacement from a working system. But how do I test this type? It doesn't rattle, or perform like the one on your Ram. It's supposed to allow air in from the Y-pipe...correct? ....but I can see into the Y-pipe some remnants of dirty oil, as if it's been also allowing air in the other direction. ...which means dirty oil air through the turbo's, into the intercoolers and on into the throttle body. Is that usual? Or is this 'pancake' valve on the 2.7 meant to be a one-way valve only?
With a gdi engine these are really bad. I'm considering venting to atmosphere and changing my oil every 3,500 miles. More often due to the "sludge/contaminates" argument. That said, you're still venting the bad vapors mostly off so i doubt its that big of a deal. The oil catch cans come with their own problems and living where we have very cold winters, you can't even run a can during the winter. No emissions checks with where I live.
Please help me out. I've a petrol engine (1AZ) which goes off as soon as is press the accelerator pedal. I've changed the following components: injectors, MAF sensor, I've change the coil of the 3rd cylinder because I had a misfiring code after that, the code disappeared, I checked the idle control valve but didn't change it, I changed spark plugs, I add fuel in the tank, yet the problem persisted. I saw that there's a bit of dirt in the tank, I don't know if that can cause my engine to stall and go off when I accelerate from idling and it also has hard starting. Thanks!
Cheap, and easy to change. People don't talk about it as a maintenance item enough. 👍
I have a toyota yaris that was using a lot of oil spark plugs black I bought a pcv valve from toyota the engine is running smoother I am checking the oi consumption looking good only problem only toyota sell the pcv cost £30 ouch if it cures the problem I don't mind
This video may have helped me solve my '96 Olds 88 rough idle problem. I replaced plugs, wires, cleaned fuel injectors to no avail. But after viewing this video I hunted down the valve (it's hidden under the MAP sensor) and replaced it. The valve did not move freely. Total cost $3.21! Idle is better and I'm hoping oil consumption will improve too. Thanks!
What kind of noise was it making if any for faulty valve
@@AJ-gc3sk a faulty PCV valve would not rattle when you shake it, meaning the valve is stuck in either the open or closed position
Funny thing is my old man had the 89 olds 88 n he had the same problem and replaced the same things as you did. I was 12 n saw my dad, my brother in law, and my old neighbor sitting in the engine bay tearing out parts. I’m now 41 and have faced my share of rough idle, if I can only go back in time. Lol
@@pprb123 not exactly. My pcv valve did rattle. But not as clean of a rattle when it’s new. Fixed my issue
Sometimes the valve can rattle and still be bad..for what it's worth just change it with original part and clean your Mass Air flow sensor as well.. These 2 are very crucial to optimal engine performance and are soooo overlooked even by experienced mechanics...make these a part of your routine preventative measures along with on time oil changes, throttle body cleaning, air and gas filters changes..RPM is soooo crucial to these newer piece of crap GDI engines..
Gotta love your engine videos like this one, there's nothing better than your clear thinking explanations.
agreed, one thing tho, dont wear glove when doing the testing with your thumb like at 8:05
@@nicholassage2076 why?
Great Video as always!! The only thing is try not to use gloves when checking the vacuum on the pcv. I had a small piece tear off and suck through my pcv valve. The force was strong in my truck!!
Did not know about the dipstick popping out. Mines used to be doing that. Had a major oil leak also. I definitely learned something new just now
I very much enjoyed your video on the PCV valve; it explained how the valve functions in regular everyday terms without getting caught up in the jargon. Nice, simple and it made sense to someone who is not a motorhead. Well done!
One of the first thing a young car guy learns about is how a bad pcv can muck things up and cause problems that aren't always easily discernible. Thank you for the full and clear explanation. Always glad to learn new things from your channel.
true. learning to clean it. spraying into it. let it dry. wipe and shake if hear the ball rattle it's 👍 a. ok. amateur stuff.
You're a car genius and very good at teaching and explaining how cars work!!! I really appreciate you. Keep up the good work!👍
I agree. He should like your comment. I dont like rude youtubers. Even if video is old.
Thank you so much for the explanation of the PCV valve, I usually do all of my own work but my wife’s car is still under warranty so I let a garage (warranty approved garage) work on the car idling bad at stop and stalling a little while going down the road. They told me it was the left side valve cover gasket letting oil into the intake. I had to see if this was correct. Through your video you explained how this can happen. They should have just told me the PCV valve though. I really like your page and very detailed for us DIY’s out here.
Replaced on 70s 302 Ford pickup. Fram. Ran lean backfired up carb. Always use factory part. Genuine Ford valve fixed.
How much oil can a catch can catch if a catch can can catch oil?
Good one. Zero if you don't have one. lol
A lot, and if you are cheap enough, you can just recycle it by pouring it back into the crankcase periodically.
Enough.
Dicen que nicho dijo un dicho , pero nicho no ha dicho ningun dicho, i si nicho lo huviera dicho bien dicho lo huviece dicho.
Que si que no que no se que, que si que no se que, que cuando se que yo que si que el que si que se.
good explanation of the PCV and a very important part, this to reduce pressure inside your engine and burning the blow by for cleaner air.
Very nice good thoughts
simple but very important. I've seen them look like brown greasy mud inside.
Most overlooked simple part.
Sometimes not so simple, some Volkswagens have the PCV built in the valve cover >.
This is why German cars are expensive to repair/service.Avoid German cars as they're rip offs!
@@tardeliesmagic Volvo is the worst ever...overly complicated that translates into huge rellacement costs.
@@Darksyne honda is right on the top
I will replace mine just incase. Just bought a used car.
Yeah you didn’t say how often you should replace it and replacing mine right now after 65,000 miles just because
They are cheap so I replace them every 5 years or 50,000 miles.
Read your manual
So look it up in your manual, call the dealer of your make, or look it up on internet. Really?
Every 2yrs or 18,600miles or 30,000kms 👌 I just replaced mine from the Honda dealership it was only $36 for my 06 RSX. My RSX is better on fuel mileage now.
Yo just be careful on older cars, these get brittle over time and will crack into tiny pieces. I changed mine out and my car went from smoking to a much cleaner burn. No more smoke and it's a cheap parts. Well worth it.
Just found your channel. My only complaint is that I didn't find it sooner! Rock on man!!
Is it just good to replace it every so often even if you don’t have any symptoms ?
Check the maintenance schedule on your vehicle owner's manual. Some manuals call for inspection and replacement of the PCV valve at certain mileage or years. Mine calls for replacement at 100k miles. Obviously earlier if it fails prematurely.
Went to change my wife's PCV valve a few years back, simply because of mileage. Genius Toyota put it under the intake manifold and on her car, it requires removing the whole front clip, radiator, and starter to take the manifold off. Lord help me if that thing ever actually fails.
Of course on my DODGE, it's right on top of the engine...2 minute job.
I don't think I've seen an oil leak on a Toyota yet, so there's that.. For what it's worth anyways
I think it depends on what year and model your car is. On my 2002 Sequoia it's very easy to replace. it's near the spark plugs
What Toyota is that?
@@bassam_salim Scion xD
Is it possible to reinstall and relocate it to another easier accessible location?
I had an issue with a 01' Firebird. I was fixing everything on it trying to figure out the issue. Went as far as a doing a complete head gasket replacement. It wasn't until I was putting everything back together that I noticed how nasty the intake manifold was. Yep it was a damn 5 dollar pcv that was causing the biggest of the issues. That said it was good to do the complete head gasket replacement as it was 160k and looked like it was starting to go. I swear it gain back a few ponies as I also polished the valves and heads.
Thank you for the video and great explanation. My husbands truck hasn’t been sounding right on the highway. I drove it yesterday and the “low oil pressure” light came on and then went right back off. I decided to check the oil- ZERO oil on the dipstick. Did some research and tested the PCV valve, zero suction. Waiting on hubby to bring me the part- I’m just hoping no damage occurred. I had no previous knowledge that something so simple could prevent major issues
Can you make a video on oil catch cans/ remote breathers for the PCV system especially for gdi engines? Thanks Ratchets
Nice tutorial. If I may add:
I was thought that the main reason for the spring operated valve inside the unit was to prevent flames from backfired carburetor to go back and ignite the air fuel mixture in the crankcase.
In old engines with carburetors, a backfire flame can travel through intake manifold through the hose back to the valve cover and down to the oil pan area. Thus, the name Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. Otherwise a one-way valve.
Before PCV valves on engine, there was a draft tube that vented the unburn air and fuel mixture to the atmosphere. This produced smog.
With fuel injector systems on cars, there is very little if any chance of backfire. There is still a need to remove unburned air/fuel mixture from the crankcase.
A small spray of carb cleaner can go a long way to keep the valve working.
How often do these need to be replaced? Does the tension on the spring wear out after awhile? I own a honda 2012 civic with 150km I dont think. Ive ever replaced mine
A bad PCV causes poor fuel economy as well
Ive been lucky enough on my vehicles over the years, the PCV valves are easily accessible. When i do my oil changes, i remove the valve and spray a little carb cleaner in there to flush any residue out. Havent had an issue with one yet...
Great explanation of the PCV system.
Thanks for the tip , HONDA V6 pcv valves go for $25 - $30.00 , and there's 3 Honda's in my family.
@@johnlopez3001
No worries!
No point in spending extra money.
Go ahead and flush them out at every oil change.
why carb cleaner and not brake cleaner
Get a Toyota, the pcv valve is super accessible, and it didn’t even cost 5 bucks for oem pcv valve😜
Great Vid as always bro Thank you!! If PCV Is stuck opened or closed would that also change fuel trim??
Excellent as always keep them coming buddy you are one of the best.
Did anyone else have an “Ah Ha” moment just now? Lol Thank you for this Video! You have made a new subscriber
I had an "Ah Ha” moment. The valve cover gasket on my tenant's car is blown out. Maybe he needs to check and clean his PCV valve.
Why are you so mad about birds?
Without them, sky will be lonely.
Maybe they dirty his cars often. Hehe.
@Sonja Kavalut , I agree ♥👍🐦
Because they laugh at him, everything about the valves and mechanic, not needed and plus they get wherever they want faster and enjoy while he works.
Sky has clouds too
Ahww you make Dawgy cry soo muchy muchy much
This is the best PCV valve instructional video I have ever watched. Good job man.
That's pretty good explanation. Except you didn't address what causes the PCV to fail. For that we need to go to an old marketing and advertising slogan... People who know use Valvoline. What do they know? All oil contains paraffin wax. As that paraffin gets separated under high heat conditions it gets sucked into the upper part of the engines and is allowed to cool. Leaving the paraffin content behind. Which builds up on small components such as that little spring loaded valve. In order to stop this buildup a low paraffin content oil should be used. And there's only one of those on the market. Valvoline. Quaker State Pennzoil Castrol and most of your synthetics, are very high paraffin content oils. Most of your synthetics are almost straight paraffin. This paraffin builds up all over inside the engine including the oil passages themselves. When the PCV is stuck in the closed position, those Vapors push the oil out of the seals through least path of resistance. Which is the same principle as electronics use for flow of current. In the case of an engine, those weak seals are the ones that surround rotating components, such as the front and rear main seal of the engine. However, that paraffin will also build up on top of the Pistons. And after the detonation of the spark plug, that oil can smolder on top of the piston. So when the air fuel ratio is introduced into the combustion chamber it's can be ignited before the spark plug. This is called predetonation. Which will in turn, burn holes in the top of the Pistons thus leading to insufficient compression. Which looks like what was happening, or about to happen on those pistons in your display engine. It is literally Murphy's Law that says a $0.10 fuse will destroy a $50 relay every time. In this case your PCV valve is the $0.10 fuse. And all of the components destroyed by lack of crankcase ventilation, is your $50 relay. Literally, I $3.95 part will save you thousands in engine repair when maintained regularly. Which in most cases is anywheres from 5 to ten thousand miles. Personally, as a professional mechanic, I love it when you don't change your PCV valve. Because I'm going to charge you $75 an hour to fix all the damage it has caused. In most cases, just to take the engine out of the car, you're going to be billed 6 to 10 hours depending on the year make and model. And you have to take the engine out of the car, or the transmission, to replace that rear main seal. There's no shortcut around it. And there is nothing on the Shelf at AutoZone that is going to stop that rear seal from leaking. There are no pills in the automotive industry. There's only one way to fix a problem. The right way the first time. You need to make a decision. Do you want to change the $3.95 PCV valve? Or do you want me taking your engine out of your car, putting $500 in seals in it, and putting it back in for around $2,000? Did you notice, he did not hook up a computer to find this problem? That's because you can't. In fact, that least path of resistance thing that I said earlier... Could be out the side of a knock sensor or an oil pressure sensor or an oil level sensor. So now we're not just talking about seals... Now we're talking about cheap China sensors. A 5-cent diode... That I'm going to charge you upwards of a hundred and fifty bucks to replace. Cam position sensors, crank position sensors... Oil is a corrosive on plastic. And it wipes those out too. As a mechanic the best advice I can give you is, find someone that you can trust to help you with the maintenance of your vehicle. Make sure that they are knowledgeable and at least State Certified. Keep in mind that mechanics solve these problems every day. Where is your plumber painter electrician construction friend... May have never solved this problem at all.
Reel Tech - calm down man.
Good novel
The following website, posted by a Valvoline wholesale distributor, addresses various “Motor Oil Myths & Facts” including differences in types of oil, causes of sludge, filter change requirements, oil change intervals, etc.: www.whitfieldoil.com/156.631
In essence, and according to this Valvoline distributor, not me, paraffins are separated from crude oil in the refining process and are not present in any modern motor oil that meets current OEM requirements. That being said, if for any reason, you have a sludge build-up in your engine, as is common with blocked PCV valves and in vehicles with GDI (direct gasoline injection into combustion chamber) engines, the cure is as outlined by Reel Tech.
Not every engine has to be removed to replace a rear main seal. On the mustang you drop the tranny, clutch, flywheel, etc, take off the plate, and replace the rear main seal. Of course theres mote steps than that, but ChrisFix has a video showing how to do it.
Don't kill the birds man,birds are good.
Birds are a part of the government.
You're right, they provide us with oxygen and shit
And please hold the language until you are off Camera,
Y'all are new around here right?🤔🤦🏻♂️
Says the animal rights activists 😉😁
I just went through this same thing on a '98 Ford Contour 2.0. On this one they made it where it's really difficult to get to. It is not on a valve cover it is in the crankcase, under the exhaust manifold. There's no way to get to it without removing the e manifold. The valve cover vents into air intake. Repairing both, valve was clogged, now working and the other hose from the valve cover was rotted. It still has crankcase pressure. At idle remove the oil fill cap and it feel it blow out a lot of pressure. Seals are leaking, they stopped for awhile when I repaired pvc system but pressure is back. And, as you said, vacuum only happens at idle, I can only imagine the pressure get worse above it. Told this customer it a goner.
That’s a really good explanation of the pcv system -two thumbs up from me 👍 👍
I saved my 2 brothers in the same week for spending money,their xj's jeep where clogged at the pcv valve and having poblems!
Would be worth replacing it after 100k tbh as it doesn't last forever and a cheap part like that could cost you alot of headache.
should the PCV valve be considered a service item, to be replaced after a certain mileage? or we have to wait for it to fail and risk engine damage?
It's a service item, it's supposed to be replaced after certain mileage
There are also methods to test if it still works
Sadly the PCV on my Mazdaspeed 3 is under the freaking intake manifold. Every other car it's on the valve cover. But no, Mazda decided to hide it under the damn intake. SIGH!
Ford Mondeo too.
@@mikes5637 Consequently the old Ford/Volvo s40 too…..
So idle, high vacuum, pcv check valve fully open, pushes against spring. Throttle plate starts to open, vacuum begins to taper off. Full throttle, pedal to the metal 😂, no vacuum, spring is able to push check valve closed. So pcv opens/closes opposite to throttle pedal postion, is that correct?
*Guy, while the PCV valve has been engineered into the system, I invite you to try to simply plug the PCV valve. This information is inaccurate, as you don't even MENTION the Breather Hose! That's where the blow-by will be exiting. I've plugged this valve THOUSANDS of times with ZERO negative events. In fact, I've had so many POSITIVE reports you would be AMAZED!*
Correct ,it's a gizmo fitted entirety for emission control (like the cat)and it's effect is debatable as oil vapour still gets burned instead of venting -it will cause trouble when stuck close -all older cars used a straight forward pipe and with a wire mesh at the tappet cover intake ,a green gizmo to prevent venting but burns oil vapour anyway that lands up in the air anyway and fouls up the top of the motor when blow by becomes exessive at which time an oil catch can make sense
i have a GM 3.6L alloytec..would this work for that engine,& if so would a catch can system be required?..thanks from Australia😉
thank you so much i really like the way you explain everything no wonder i have oil gasket problems
In my opinion, if your car is 10 years old or more, does have a PCV valve and is not a pain to replace, doit. The valve costs about 5 bucks or even less, and the grommet about 3 bucks or less... just replace the valve AND the grommet and you could even restore some of that lost mileage!... (or so some utubers claim)
cheers!
cheers!
5 bucks for a new PCV valve? Lucky man.. In my country there are genuine PCV valve available, that costs me 70 bucks, plus a new PCV hose for 40 bucks.. It's a 2002 Ford Focus 1.8
@@flycorvus bro here in South Africa a pcv valve for my Renault scenic ii is around 80 US dollars. And it's only a piece of plastic with a spring and rubber diaphragm... Never buy it. Catch can is almost half the price☺
Joburg
This is great information! i have the very symptoms you mention, and its only a $10 fix- and requires no tools!!! I’m pulling no codes, but there’s gas smell in the oil, a new oil pan leak, and a new valve cover leak, and i feel like performance could improve slightly. THANK YOU! /2002 Lexus RX300
Some PCV valves are expensive and a pain in the ass to get to. like on a toyota rav 4 especially if you have to work with out a hoist.
Can it also cause abnormal fuel consumption? Thx
Another overlooked item is the differential breather valve that releases the pressure inside the differential if it gets plugged up it blows out the seals from your axles
This is why predominantly they make this simple and essential part the biggest pain to get access to.
Tell me about it - on my Honda I'm going to have to remove the intake manifold to replace it. I can scarcely even SEE the thing normally!
Hey can this cause a tbi to have like a vacuum leak or preformance loss?
Even without blow by, the pistons have the same effect on the crankcase as they do inside the head. Each stroke exerts either positive or negative pressure (compression or vacuum) on the crankcase just as it does in the head, which is why it needs a way to breathe. Manufacturers want you to buy a new car every few years. They could care less about blow by caused by worn rings/cylinders
Great info! Never heard Scotty screaming about it LOL. Was worried that my engine is about to blow, because the car is old, but since it has an Ecotec engine it should be fine. Thanks again!
I always knew to change it on a tuneup but now I know why. 👍🏽
So, we take funky oil filled vapor and feed them into a nice clean Throttle Body, Great Design !
That is why I cutted that crankcase breather hose from my tdi passat several years ago and pointed it to under the engine...
Salil Sawarim how's that working for you?
@@loudring6247 well it breaths next to oil pan and doesn't freeze up on winter time ( live in Finland) even vithout electric heater coil. Of course there there is some oil stains, so surroundings need to clean with brake cleaner for annual inspection... 😊
Salil Sawarim aha I see 😄
#daewoodesign
I have an 2001 AUDI A4 1.8 LITER Turbo Avant , Motor code: AWM. Does this car have a PCV valve?
I have a Ducati sport bike and recently I pulled OFF the crankcase vent tube that goes back into the throttle body. It's on there 4 smog purposes and I don't want unburnt fumes going back n2 my engine plugging up my engine...
PCV Must have a weak spring if I can hear it while I shake it.
these PCV were designed super cheap to be replaced easily - However the new fancy PCV systems these days let in a lot of oil mixed with the air to cause dirty intake valves...
thanks so much, i just learnt how to check my PSV functionality.
Dont you think that stuck closed pcv valve will not show any symptoms? Simply, through the ventilation hose, the blow by gases will pass before the throttle body. Is it possible?
Hi Sir, I have sonata 2015, when i drive above 100km/h speed. Engine some times stopes automatically while running and then starts up again after a short while. It has automatic transmission and when its starts back rpm goes upto 6thousands which creats too much noise and jolts the car.
Need your guaidance to get rid of this.
Thanks
Good job; I had forgotten the way a pcv valve system works. The new pcv valve for my Ford is only $3.99 at AutoZone.
Mine is only 139.00 . VW
Mine is $27.99 @ NAPA for HONDA V6 engine. 🤔
My Toyota oem from dealership was just $3.95 😜 TOYOTA FOREVER
When in doubt just change the valve.
Hey Ratchets, Could an inoperable PCV valve cause a high idle?
that would explain why my valve seals are leaking like crazy, because I just changed my PCV valve and it was all buggered up
If you have a MAP based system instead of an MAF based system then if the pcv was stuck in the open position that would decrease manifold vacuum and fool the computer into thinking the engine is under load which would make the ECU raise the idle speed.
My bad pcv was disguised as a vacuum leak.
Relief to find someone said this, cant find a vacuum leak i have but will be changing this valve to see if it makes a difference
Its only 10 bucks to replace those on many gm v6 motors. Every 6 months, clean the pvc, and put it back on. Easy peasy lol 👍
Just got done reconditioning a Honda H22 with all new seals, timing components, etc. Installing into the car after it was on the road I kept noticing oil coming out of the new distributor seal, vtec solenoid gasket and cam seals - all the head seals. Replaced the PCV valve and I'm not seeing oil seepage in the day I;ve driven it thus far. Amazing what a $15 part can do...
Wonderful explanation. At this point, the better explanation for a PCV. Thank you! Not to sound sarcastic, but I learned based on how you test them (which makes sense) I have wasted about $8-10 replacing this valve needlessly. Thankfully though, they are cheap!
Positively important : )
4:47 , can I help you with your problem? Im a good aim and hate starlings.
what happens if the PCV valve or breather are not connected to the manifold? I have been trying to restore my gf's truck (1999 GMC Yukon) for over a year. Doing many fixes it needed: spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and many others. But about 2 months ago, when we finally decided to give it life again, it started rough, idles roughly, and when we step on the gas, it seems like its going to die on us. I found a hole (now I believe its either the PCV valve or breather) that had duct tape over it. Could this be why the truck doesn't want to run as it should, the pcv valve or breather is missing?
Obviously find ur manual or another video with ur exact car and find out what exactly that hole is. But yes, if it is in fact no Pcv valve or breather . It would cause it to start and run a bit more rough. If you let ur warm up and run for a while I’m sure you’d smell oil if that’s the case as well .
Could a stuck open pcv cause any issues with fuel trims? Like you said if stuck opened it acts like a vacuum leak.
I run my PVC hose into a catch can - works fin intact improves performance, rather than having blow by being burned up..
Lool, I have an Audi A4 B7 2.0 TDI 170HP engine and I am having, MAF sensor code, lack of perfomance under 3000RPMs and plenty of black smoke. I inspected many things and next is the PCV valve now, Im doing research on the internet. And when you said that the oil dipstick can get pushed out I became pretty certain that this is my issue, because mine was pushed out and I am sure I didnt leave it like that, and I also have oil coming out from the pcv valve. What do you think, is that it? The car suddenly lost power after accelerating a littlebit harder, so I suppose after the acceleration the PCV valve got stuck in a closed position, right? Does this sludge get cleaned over time if the PCV valve is fixed?
Hey you're awesome! I'm glad I follow you on here. Im gonna go check my PCV valve. My car acts like it has a vacuum leak, sometimes it idles rough, sometimes it drives fine. I can't find a vacuum leak. It is throwing an MAF code but I have changed my MAF several times. Ideas?
Same boat buddy, any luck?
A PCV clog caused oil to go up my dipstick tube, which caused me to run low on oil despite regularly checking the dipstick. It doesn't look like there was any terminal damage but a few thousand miles longer and I would've probably destroyed my crankshaft journals.
This part isn't talked about often enough. Its often cheap and easy to replace and the consequences of its failure can be devastating - so it should really be checked regularly.
RATCHET THIS THE GOOD VIDEO BUBBA. NOW I WORRY MY ORIFICE. I CHECK THE PVC PIPE.
I like to see oil catch can video
"I'm gonna kill this birds..." You had me in stitches man!
Thanks for the video - very helpful. Could you do a follow-up on the EGR/crankcase ventilation systems of more recent vehicles that have no PCV valve, but which do have a PCV tube and an EGR system (with solenoids, etc.). For example, I have a 2010 Equinox with a direct injection gasoline 2.4L engine; as a group these engines suffer from excessive oil use, carbon build up on the intake valves and in the intake manifold caused by high internal crankcase pressures and blow-by; many of these engines will blow the rear oil seals because of the high pressure. While there are supposed to be extended warranties on the affected vehicles, this extended warranty coverage is almost always denied, because the affected vehicle is not on some pre-selected list created by GM. This comment is not about GM - it is simply a request that you show the average owner of such a vehicle what she or he can do to deal with the problem, whether it is adding a catch can to remove and store the excess oil, cleaning or enlarging the PCV hole in the intake manifold, adding a vent tube or an old fashioned PCV valve to reduce blow-by pressure, or something else. A lot of modern car owners have this problem, and there must be a simple, relatively inexpensive cure which doesn’t screw up the electronic fuel and air flow controls on the modern engine. Thanks for your videos and for your consideration of this request.
I just bought a PCV valve today and this video got recommended 😂👍
They know every move we make🤪 tech companies are worse than communist dictatorships in regards to data information
Can this create a high idle and erratic idle on a Honda Accord V6?
How often should the PCV valve be changed
Nobody knows, apparently
This is a great vid. The symptoms matched unexplained problems on our RAV4. Turns out this is a common problem for that car. Thank you for your videos and how you demonstrate and explain. Like your style.
Love this video I found it super helpful. You are easy on the eyes too. 😊
good explanation additional good idea thanks for video and keep the good work good health and goodbless.
I have oil leaks behind top left of tsi engine vw Tiguan 2013.
Top of the piston and spark plug is carbon.
Exhost was Can on and black.
Taking noise.
But the OBD2 DOES NOT SHOW ANY PCV errors.
It just shows p000a Wich I cleaned the magnet vvt and error gone.
I had misfire which it's fixed by injector cleaner I put last week .
I have check gage oil vacuum that was good.
Can anyone knows What is the problem?
Is it possible car had these problems and obd2 could not show cods?
Mine went bad and caused all kinds of problems, including the smoke from the tail pipe, and it even got oil all the way to the air filter, and killing the maf sensor.
I new the little bugger was important but not that important thanks for the info
What if I don't have a check engine light from this part. but my car vibrates and shakes, especially putting it in reverse.
Caused premature failure of catalytic converter ... 😿
Before i watch the video, im gonna guess thats the PCV valve? Yeah, its a cheap plastic part, and i cant count how.many fixes to a customers problem was just replacing the valve and the cracked/hard/split hose attaching to it. Really cheap repair for something that feels catastrophic when you first experience symptoms... as long as you get it done before it causes additional issues... lets see, i like testing myself like this😊 rule of thumb for us, is remove the pcv valve and shake it, if you csnt feel the ball rattling/shaking, it definitely needs replaced (even if it 'seems' to shake ok, it doesnt mean it isnt bad, but if you cant shake the ball portion of the valve its a pretty dead givaway thay its not working. Misfires, idle seeking (usually from a vacuum leak, usually from the split hose connecting the pcv), low/rough idle, engine shutting off, list goes on... its crazy how cheap, yet how massively impactful that little plastic valve is. The EGR is another one ive experienced a lot of issues with on late 90's honda accords (possibly civics too, i know, but it definitely affected the Honda 2.3 L engine. The EGR fails, and the intake system on those has to be completely disassembled and cleaned out, the air passages get gunked closed with REALLY bad symptoms. I kinda miss working with those imports so often.
Someone please comment on this.
I went from a struggling idle that would die if I let up on the gas, to a roaring 1+ RPM and practically double the exhaust force just after popping out this little valve and spray cleaning it with carb cleaner, and snapping it back in.
I would have never expected that in a million years.
The only problem is my muffler is now popping constantly. I have my O2 sensors disconnected because I was testing them (they are rusted in and I don't know if I can get them out to replace) but they were out before everything was exactly the same.
I'm completely amazed that this little valve did this.
Maybe its stuck open now?
On competition engines there are are breather filters on top of the valve covers to vent the pressure. The filters are there to prevent debris from entering the engine but not to obstruct the vapors coming out of the engine. These vent directly to atmosphere. It is very important to not let the vapors build up pressure in the engine as he mentioned.
A breather filter takes in fresh air. The pcv valve dumps the vapors into the intake plenum
To understand: what force cause the PCV spring works (open/close)?... the vacuum or the pressure of the crankcase? .... because I have problem: I saw high vapor come out from the oil cap. wonder why! ..... I replaced with a after marker pcv valve 2 month ago.
some one told me maybe i have blowby problem. I know what cause too much blowby, but before go throw the piston ring I wonder if with a oil catch can can fix this.
But my question is, the pcv valve maybe is defective and no working properly to release that pressure??? PLEASE HELP !!!
Great, informative video! My car smokes on deceleration only and I thought that the PCV valve could be the culprit, so I replaced it with a new one. However, that did not make a difference. The engine in the car was professionally rebuilt three years ago, so I wouldn't think that there are worn out piston rings yet... I attached an oil catch can in the line that connects the rear valve cover to the intake manifold, but it hasn't collected almost anything in two years. I also rebuilt the turbos last year, so they shouldn't be causing the problem either. Could you please provide me with some clue as to what could be causing this smoking on deceleration? My car is a '95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4. Thanks in advance!
I feel like the RUclips's algorithm knows what's wrong with my car😦 i keep getting videos telling me what exactly is "happening" as it's happening in "real time". 🤯 it's only a matter of time before A.I. will predict the future and no longer just be recognized as A.I. but as T.I. (The Intelligence). Food for thought.
I have a 2007 ford five hundred and i see smoke coming from the engine but theres no overheating and idles a bit rough. I got code P0443 which i think said its for the purge control valve for the EVAP system, and i also got a P0106 which is for the MAP sensor, does anyone know if thats why theres white smoke cming from the engine?Or if anyone knows what else could be wrong or what is REALLY going on? Thanks
If the PCV valve fails closed or otherwise is there a potential for oil and gasses to exit through the breather side of the PCV system? I have a 2013 f150 3.5L EcoBoost(60000Mi) and the driver side turbo fresh air intake pipe is the tap off for the PCV fresh air into the crank case. I can see oil weeping from at the turbo output piping connections and wonder if the PCV system could be putting oil out that way?
I have a Honda Pilot with a rough idle and some misfiring with a check engine light saying my catalytic converters were bad. I did a tune up with spark plugs, air filter, oil change, etc. Still had the same problems so I started cleaning sensors like intake temp sensor, MAP sensor, etc. Still had the same problems. After watching this video I decided to check the PCV valve and that was bad!!! I looked inside the intake manifold and there was pooling of engine oil and it was covered with a fine layer of oil. I took out the intake manifold to clean it and replaced the PCV valve. Now I have smooth idle, no misfiring, and the check engine light for my catalytic converter is off. The dealership just wanted to replace the cats for $3k. The problems the Pilot had was just a faulty 35 dollar PCV valve.
this PCV is positioned for the blow-by coming out of the crankshaft on your 2001 DodgeRam. I'm trying to test a PCV on a 2001 Allroad 2.7T which is connected to the Y-pipe on the intake side of the system. I have purchased a used replacement from a working system. But how do I test this type? It doesn't rattle, or perform like the one on your Ram. It's supposed to allow air in from the Y-pipe...correct? ....but I can see into the Y-pipe some remnants of dirty oil, as if it's been also allowing air in the other direction. ...which means dirty oil air through the turbo's, into the intercoolers and on into the throttle body. Is that usual? Or is this 'pancake' valve on the 2.7 meant to be a one-way valve only?
With a gdi engine these are really bad. I'm considering venting to atmosphere and changing my oil every 3,500 miles. More often due to the "sludge/contaminates" argument. That said, you're still venting the bad vapors mostly off so i doubt its that big of a deal. The oil catch cans come with their own problems and living where we have very cold winters, you can't even run a can during the winter. No emissions checks with where I live.
Please help me out. I've a petrol engine (1AZ) which goes off as soon as is press the accelerator pedal. I've changed the following components: injectors, MAF sensor, I've change the coil of the 3rd cylinder because I had a misfiring code after that, the code disappeared, I checked the idle control valve but didn't change it, I changed spark plugs, I add fuel in the tank, yet the problem persisted. I saw that there's a bit of dirt in the tank, I don't know if that can cause my engine to stall and go off when I accelerate from idling and it also has hard starting.
Thanks!