Setting Up A Chinese Laser Rotary
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2020
- This is a super in depth tutorial on how to set up a rotary on a co2 chinese laser. Then I walk you through how to set up Lightburn software step by step. The rotary will allow you to etch on things like Yeti tumblers, mugs, and ...hot dogs?!
Check out my blog for the settings in picture and file form and more details about the rotary:
www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/la...
www.lightburnsoftware.com
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Or cheaper on ebay (not as good for returns though)
bit.ly/60wlaser
i sure do.
what camera did you use and how easy is it to wire and use with lightburn?
litle tip that is way better then guessing the steps.: 1st run -> it does not matter what number the steps is. burn a line of 2cm (or any other length)
step 2 measure the line, if the line is 3cm , then do 2 / 3 = 0.66666 then you take the number of steps it was on and multiply that by 0.66666. then you have the right amount of steps
thanks for the tip.
Di-jo! That is probably the best and easiest way ive ever seen anyone explain that. THANK YOU!!!
Great video, thank you! just set up the exact same rotary for my 60 watt china laser. The steps per rotation for mine were 2900 vs your 2800 just for you folks who have the same one. The help of your camera really makes me want one!! I did up the lineshift speed you used to 40 with no problems.
All I can say is Thank You, Thank you, Thank you!! I've had my laser for over a year, and the rotary attachment as well and I was intimidated to use the rotary, until someone asked for 7 tumblers and I don't know what I was thinking, but I said I could do them, lol. Your video is so detailed and helpful. I had several panics, it took me a day to figure it out, and to put the settings back together I was so scared that it wouldn't work. But it Did, and I was able to engrave the tumblers. Thank you so much, and keep doing what you do. Your video was perfect and so helpful.
So, this is a fantastic tutorial. I have the same laser and rotary, and this made it easy to set up. One warning--I had plugged in the rotary but it wouldn't turn. Thought mine was a dud, started taking it apart, very frustrated. Turns out, you need to switch the plugs when the machine is off--may be obvious to others, but wasn't to me. Once I turned it off and back on again (yay obvious tech fixes), everything worked like a charm
Excellent Video! I've looked at several videos on this subject yours is by far the best I've found. Very Informative! Thank You!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for all your videos. I'm a newbie and your videos are great learning tools.
You are very welcome
I have the same rotary and found your video darn useful, especially when it came to dialing things in. However, I kept getting drift in the Y-axis, and worse, it was not consistent! Right side of an engraving would be almost right-on, but traveling to the left there would be an increasing divergence. I spent hours trying to fix this, and went through a couple of rolling pins in the process; now perfectly useless! :) What I finally tracked the problem down to was that the rolling pins (and not super cheap, but in the $10-$15 range) did NOT have a consistent diameter. It turned out that there could be up to 0.1 inch differential between the two ends, and that difference, leading to differing circumferences, was the issue.
Also, like you, I've played with several ideas to stop the target from traveling left or right while being engraved. On the drive side I installed a slotted piece of steel that sits just high enough to prevent travel to the right. That also provided me a place to install a v-pulley which I use with a 2" diameter (or larger) o-ring to firmly hold the piece on the rollers - helps immensely with ensuring there's no jumping about. To hold the left side I alternate between some very poweful magnets and aluminum angle, with the magnets clamping the piece to the two vertical steel posts. I also put a v-pulley on the left side. So, a day's worth of effort has paid-off. Again, thanks for such a well done video (as all of your work seems to be!).
That tip on Idle Speed and Line Shift at 41:00:00 are fantasitc! Thank you!!
Awesome video. Answered a dozen questions.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the video, it has been really helpful! I do have a question on settings either the machine or Lightburn. I did a logo that has fill and lines. It engraved the fill first and then went back and did the lines. When it did the lines, they did not line up with the fill. I changed my setting for idle speed and line shift down to 20. Watching it, it didn't seem to skip when it went to do the line. My speed was 30 and power 12. Is there a setting in Lightburn to do everything in order or any advice on how to fix/troubleshoot?
This was very helpful, I have a similar Chinese laser machine.
Helped with set up, thanks!
Ben - Sorry if I'm a little slow, but would you have to redo the rotation measurement if you changes to a different sized cup? I realize the others have to be changed, but it was unclear to me about the rotation number.
Many thanks for a great teaching video!
JoeG
You might (possibly) be able to set up a duplicate machine in LB with your customized rotary settings... so machine 1 - normal laser, machine 2 - rotary tweaked settings. Then just switch between devices - not sure how that works w/ the firmware, but might be worth seeing if LB's software control can override default idle, etc.
Excellent explanation, you have clarified many doubts about the Laser Rotary. Unfortunately I can't find it available on Amazon Spain, I love your videos! 😉👍
Glad it was helpful!
I have had one of these rotaries for a year. It is made of the typical quality metal most chinese use ( I believe they think 304 stainless is a brand ) and went rusty in a month, and the height adjuster not being in line with the slides, makes the tail stock jam.
Great video. Could you do your test cuts with the laser switch off to avoid accidentally touring anything?
absolutely! I do that often.
Great video I’ve gone through it several times tonight with a engraving deadline tomorrow of course lol. So my particular issue with my 1930 Riuda Chinese laser engraver and the pi rotary is that changing my steps per rotation to match the halfway mark with my vector line drawing does not change. For example I went all the way down to 500 and up to 11,000 and it cuts a similar line. I’m gonna rain what’s gone wrong here?
Hey Ben! Any chance you can use this rotary with the laser module on a onefinity?
I bought an ortur rotary and using lightburn and ortur 15w in the set up do I have to turn homing off if so how to please love the videos hopefully upgrading next Yr this was just to dip my toe in
i don't think you do.
Thanks for the complete video! I probably appreciate it more since I spent all day yesterday configuring mine. One thing I noticed that I haven't seen addressed anywhere is that when you have everything dialed in, Lightburn seems to be making adjustments to the Y axis to account for the curvature of the cup. For example, I made a 40x40mm square, and it measured 40x44mm on the face of the cup. It did, however, measure 40mm wide if you held a flat ruler up to it and eyeballed it. This is a cool feature unless you're trying to put a pattern around the whole circumference. With the "actual" settings, I was able to cut the entire circumference with a 143mm object, where my actual circumference (measured, and set in the Rotary setup) is actually ~159mm. Anything longer than 143mm, and I would get an out of bounds error from the Ruida controller. Have you run into this?
I have not. but i would post on the lightburn forum, they're very responsive.
Thank you so much...this video helped me a lot
Glad it helped!
I've found a wet magic eraser helps clean up the tarnish on the engraving from the laser on cups. Looks a lot better after getting cleaned up.
yep, magic eraser is my go too now also.
@@MyersWoodshop also try coating it with dish soap.
My Rotary has three pins is there an adapter for that or a wire configuration that I need to learn?
Thank you for the tutorial, It makes it seem not so daunting.
You can do it!
Great tutorial!! thank you...
You are so welcome!
When you added the top/bottom text to the template your top right origin shifted - you can see it move in the video. That is why the name was so close to the top edge. of the cup.
yep. your right! That's why later that part is missing.
Might have helped if you added some weight inside the cup?Thanks very much good vid.
my rotary is too tall for 20 oz tumbler when set on the knives. I got the rotary from Omtech. the autofucos switch is too low and will hit the tumbler and the laser is barely clear. I had to set it on the floor onto top of two 2x4s to use it.
I´m wondering if the steps per rotation of a chuck rotary is the same as a roller rotary tool... I mean, is the same thing to calculate it?
What do you use to keep the tumbler from "walking"? I have this one but my tumbler keeps walking to the left
i put a solid block in front of the tumber. or I've done a clamp on the front of the rotary and the tumber pushes against the clamp body.
Good video- thanks. But notice in the Lightburn setup, there's a button called 'test' ? Near the object diameter & circumference. That will make it test rotate the number of steps in the top column for Y rotary.
Also as soon as you put the word "bottom" on the right, you shigted the origin, which is why the test was too high on the mug.
You'd have been better to set the origin midway along that edge - the top middle of your black box - or delete the word 'bottom'
So in both RDWorks and lightburn, even when I get all these settings, the laser won't run the "square and line" program let alone any real work. The y axis button moves the rotors but when I click run, it just thinks for a second and does nothing.
FYI: For raising and lowering the table, open the bottom front door, and you should be able to move a belt or chain and raise or lower the table much faster than using the knob.
Did you try averaging your roller diameter with your object diameter to find your steps per rotation? I'm throwing crap on the board to see what sticks but I noticed if you average those two numbers on your example of your yeti can you get 2807.50 which is absurdly close to the 2800 you got by putting the tape on and doing all the rest of it. I wonder if you could just take the average of the object diameter and the roller diameter and achieve the same thing. Super curious ;)
Do you know where I could find a laser rotary with a 5pin connector? My laser is from 2018, and this rotary has a 4 pin.. which is the closest I’ve been able to find
I have the red and black 60 watt laser from Omtech.
Hello!! How do you figure out the focal distance from the tumbler? I am setting mine up and believe I am too close, but that’s what gets the red light right below it. Thank you!
look up a laser focus test.
do you have any suggestions for me!! I have followed your video step by step multiple times lol it keeps telling me that my engrave is out of the workspace and gives me slope error/not enough extended space when I try to run and I dont see why!!! Im not near the edge at all....... Sincerely a frustrated laser mom
For adjusting the Z, Instead of removing knob and attaching drill, open the bottom door and pull the Z belt left/right.
Did you ever design a 3d print file as a stop for the cups to hold it in place? If so, any chance to get the stl?
i didnt. i just glued a block of wood to the top of the metal pieces
If I want to laser engrave on a truncated conical object (or rotating circular objects of variable radius) and engrave on an inclined plane (or a type of terrace) how do I set the z-axis?
aim for the middle width and hope for the best.
Block up under the motor end an use a level to check it then adjust accordingly
Hi does having a Z- axis offer help for me without having to remove my honeycomb bed , I mean direct like a plug & play rotary system?
I'm mainly looking to engrave yeti cups and bamboo bottles ( maybe rarely wine glasses) any suggestions on which type of rotary I should be going for for my 80W
Get the one I got. Link in description
@@MyersWoodshop thanks!
What machine is that where can I buy one like it.....also what's the wattage.....and is that a cow laser?
If you have a seamstress tape measure you could measure the line that you burned divide it into the measurement you originally wanted and multiplied that to original steps per mm and it would get you into the ballpark of the new steps per mm needed. example: If the original steps per mm were 5000, and you wanted a line of 4.64 and you measured a line of 8.28, you would divide 4.64 by 8.28 and multiply that to 5000 and get a new steps per mm that is really close. If you don't have a seamstress tape measure, you could remove the tape, put it on a flat surface, and measure it with a set of calipers.
definitly another way to get there!
can you show me how to continue engraving after a power outage or emergency stop incident?
Start over?
Used your link and orderd Rotary 2 phase. (Thursday delivery) will see. Need camera if Lightburn can get them in. Just not sure what degree 120,140 or 160. I have same 60 watt ol Yellow like you.
140. I have the same model.
Link to official camera. In stock. I got mine from there. cohesion3d.com/shop/peripherals/official-lightburn-camera/
pretty sure mine was the 140 or 160. i can't remember now.
Saw you had some lens in your side compartment. Did you upgrade your machine?
I bought a new lens from amazon.
Thanks for video...went and bought me a rotary like yours...keep it up
nice! it works really well.
You can also get the settings in there, and then go into the Move and set the number of steps to move, and see if it lines back up at the starting point.
It's been a frustrating experience with my rotary and C02 laser... I'm not new, I've got a fiber laser and a laser business. My question is that the graphic on the screen looks great but it engraves backwoods, like looking in a mirror. Any help would be amazing. Thank you... liked and subbed.
He addresses this near the beginning of the video. Rewatch. :P
Thanks for sharing
My pleasure
I have a chinese 80w and I bought a rotary about like yours but have not been able to get it to work. It did not come with a hook up for the rotary so I cut he wires and wired them to a green block to hook to the control board but it will not work. It did stutter for a second but hat was it. Is there any settings I need to change?
I'm having the same issue. Did you get yours to work?
So you dont have to change the dip switches on the driver you can can configure most of the setting in light burn and machine settings?
Never touched the switches
@@MyersWoodshop Good to know there are a few other videos out that showed you had to change the dip switches everytime you used the rotary. Not sure they were using lightburn for software.
can this be used with a fiber laser?
Rubber O-rings is for traction for what you are turning.
Ok, I don't see where anyone else asked so I will, how did the hot dog taste, haha loved it.
lol. unlike the pizza, I didn't eat the hot dog.
He doesn't say in the video but that connector is called a GX16 aviator connector. The 16 means you'll need a 16mm hole to put it in
hi
anyone have a good link to buy this complete machine ?
thanks a lot
Link is in the description! If you use my link, I get some credit!
So I did exactly what Ben said not to do. I changed settings without saving file. But I did write them down. But lucky for me my 5 year old thought she was being helpful and cleaned up. So now I don’t know my defaults. Can you or anyone else help. 60 watt OMtech, Ruida controller.
I’m having trouble with my engraving turning out smaller in width then my design…I’ve double check all my object settings … not sure what else to do
It’s engraving 1 inch off
For some reason mm per rotation doesn’t do anything and when I put a sample pic in it just cuts in circles. Any ideas?
So when I enable my rotary it does weird stuff but when I have it off it actually prints what I put ? I’m lost lol
Man your bed needs a clean, i stick mine in the dishwasher but yours is larger than mine industrial dishwasher or pressure washer vertical to the bed obviously not in the machine, if you dont clean it those brown marks are resins and eventually will catch fire, like you i use mine a lot and stick it through my wife-s dishwasher once a month and it comes out nice and clean... Thanks for the tutorial, very useful.
I’m not sure if you knew there are a couple of rotary units that are better than that. With a cup/glass hold down and stops. Also there is a great video on setting this up on House Of Lasers
but can I use my amazon credit to purchase them?
@@MyersWoodshop Nope, but I had a phone call from the gentleman who makes one a few minutes after I inquired. Helped me select which one was best for me. Hows tech support fro the china one?
The 4 pins are for power and signal. The same with a 3 pin where ground is common for power and signal.It has nothing to do with phases.
I'm really not understanding how the Circle pulse can be a constant number. It must change with the diameter of the object you are engraving, because the 'gear' ratio between the rotary drive wheel and the workpiece would change. That's how gears work...
you change the diameter for each object.
If you lower the wheels like that, you should have a larger diameter piece that will ride higher on the wheels and avoiding the screw head
You could have used a square on the motor assembly to align with the idler rollers. Also, you previously measured the max working length of the item you can fit between the rollers, then complain that longer items foul on the adjusters
Apart from winging most of the video so wasn’t the easiest tutorial to watch and a tad frustrating at times, it looks like a decent rotary machine.
I had to put the steps all the way up 7000 to even get close to correct.
Or you could have just slid the rail up to the other wheels and match the 2 up.....then tighten the Allen bolts
Poor Deacon
Use the rod to help find center- to your left
Measure with a 90 square to the side of the frame against the rod?
definitely could do that!
"three hundred and ten millimeters"
so 31cm
Mm and cm are not something I use very often in the us
Used metric for all my working life (45 years carpenter)
The only trade that I know uses cm is dress makers.
But yes, non trade people often call them cm.
Why not show a bigger picture of the engraving without showing the settings just show the engraving.
Because if your setting one up you care about the settings not the engraving
love it! piece of garbage rotary trying to be properly setup using woodpeckers tools that cost more than the rotary! :-)
You got that right!