How To Install A Milliamp Gauge In A Chinese CO2 Laser
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- I bought a 60w Orion Tech Chinese laser and needed to know what milliamps it ran. I'll walk you through how I installed it and what it does and why it's so important. For less than $10 dollars, it's the first thing you should add before you even fire your laser.
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■ Ruida RD644S Controller : bit.ly/ruidardc644s
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Хобби
Orion Motor Tech 60w Chinese Laser Cutter Engraver : amzn.to/31K0TEc
Or cheaper on ebay (not as good for returns though)
ebay.to/2DkaQic
Great job! Super easy to follow. Most Helpful. Thanks
Ah dope this is fantastic, Great video and thanks for taking the time to show the splicing technique you used as well.
Glad you liked it!
Did this recently on my 50w and also added a lid cutoff switch, really should have come with one. Now my class 4 is almost a class 1 laser. Looking forward to seeing your projects with the laser.
How did you install a lid cutoff switch? If you could direct me to a website I would appreciate it.
Thanks so much for this extremely simple and clear explanation. I really appreciate you not feeling the need to use complex language to explain. Thanks again!
Great video. Love the walk through. Keep it up
Awesome, thank you. But can you tell me what I would use this for on my machine? Trouble shooting? Like Why my 100w omtech is only at 15ma at 100% power kinda thing? Thanks!
My Milliamp Gauge sometimes goes higher then normal during a cut. depending one the file I am cutting it. The gage always reads 19 ma when press "pulse". But in a cut file. it varies 15 to 20. in another file it went it to 21 ma steady. any clue why? Not all files do it. I have min and max at 80% power.
I need some major help. I installed the milliamp just like the video instructed. Turned on the laser and the milliamp isn't registering any power at all. I tried running a test design and the laser is not firing up. What have I done wrong and how do I fix this?
Very helpful! Do you have that light burn file to share?
Cooling inlet should be at the rear -because it is the hotest place- lower -to prevent air bubbles- side (1:09 shows that it is on top). Am I wrong?
How do you know the 'max' preferred rating of your laser? like why did you decide 20ma is most you can do comfortably? Is there some chart? calculation?
Do you have tutorial for installation potensiometer for setting of power ?
Great video but how did you cut the hole?
what would be the reason my Ma meter sticks on 10 Ma's during this test...does me gauge have a flaw?
Really enjoying the videos that you have been doing but just 1 comment tho if you move the lapel microphone down ur clothing a little bit it will help you to avoid the trouble that you had in this video with the problems that you was having. It was happening when you turned your head to the left hand side. Just thought I'd mention this as to help you out keep up the good work tho love what I've seen so far 👍👌
yep, didn't have a lapel mic at the time. Have one now so its all good!
I didn't quite understand how you decided that 20mA was the max amperage (which corresponded to 85% power in Lightburn). Also, would a 30mA analog meter be sufficient for an 80W tube?
You should peal off the blue protection-plastic from your laser power supply, its only there to protect the metal when stacking them together from the factory. Due to there are components that uses the metal to lead away heat, the plastic will act as a insulation so that the heat wont dissolve as good as without the plastic, your components will last longer without it
I"ve been wanting to add this to my Orion 40w laser. I bought the meter - just never got around to cutting out the spot on my case...
its time! gotta know what amps your running!
\thank you for the video,
your welcome.
new subscriber here great video ty
Thanks for the sub!
How not to crimp a connection ;) First you should never twist the bare wire when using a crimp tool, secondly you are pinching from 2 angles.. you should crimp it from the top only, that way the 2 metal slits will bend over and crimp into the wire. As you can see you only managed to crimp a small portion, the end of it is now bigger than it started.
On the but connections, please DON'T use a combinationplier but the correct tool... you'd be better off using some solder and heat shrink tubing
I cringed so hard about that. I paused the video to see if someone had already said it! 👍 😂
@@Uzwel same. going to watch the rest now LOL
Never mind. Laser tubes LOVE some sparking on their power supply.
Just checking how your laser is performing today love today buy one
To not today
never use yellow/green cable for anything else then ground, get correct colour cable. And use the yellow/green cable for ground so you do not electocute yourself.
i know whats what, so i did it with what I had on hand and free. Feel free to use the 'correct' colored wire.
That’s what a woodworker in Crocs would reply ... 😉 It’s your machine, you screw it up as you like. At least you saved 4 cents !
Color isn't important lol. If you know the machine it's especially not important.
Actually, the response you were looking for was “oh, you’re right, my bad”. Clint is right.
At least if you’re going to do something dumb, don’t make an instructional video out if it.
@@JSAFIXIT Colour IS important and none more so than that used for Earthing and Grounding, so much so in fact that here in the UK the correct ratio of green to yellow in the cable sheath colouring is laid down in our wiring regulations. And, whilst you say he knows 'his' machine, suppose he wants to sell the machine at some point in the future? What then? Rewire? Tell the buyer and hope they remember? Do it right first time.
also I would be tempted to simply replace the "inadequate chinesium" wire at the back of the power outlets and use them as intended, Much more efficient and self contained and you can still use the installed switches
easier to just get a power strip.
Hi was it possible to remove the low voltage wire at the power supply terminals an break it there an install connector
yep, and that would have made more sense looking back on it lol
Will the controller that came with that unit do Gray scale (allow Lightburn to control the power of the laser)?
YES!
my miliamp arrived without any wire, I’m installing it to my k40 and wondering what guage it should be
can you run lightburn on these? Can you use a mac? also does it have autofocusing when cutting? can you install a camera to see your cut area before you cut to save material?
yes! check my other vidoes!
Nice video - I'm installing mine tomorrow ! I was wondering if you could share your lightburn test file. Thx
wish i could but i didnt save it :P
I need to get this to my basement. Is it possible to take off the stand that has the wheels, so I can make it smaller and lighter? I see a seam under the main box.
yep, its not super easy but its just bolted together. just take the top off.
positive wire from Amp meter to.. and negative wire from Amp meter to??
Do I need to swap the wires from ammeter if the reading is registering below zero while pulsing?
yes
What size hole saw is he using for the meter.im hearing impaired and the closed caption isn't making much sense to me .
Sounds like a 2 inch hole saw. Something like this: amzn.to/2OzWxvb
Is there a positive and negative you have to hook to the milliamp?
Yes. It should have a plus and minus on the back
Where can I find a chart that compares the length of the tube to the wattage of the laser (I've seen two versions of 80W tubes on Amazon from the same company, one which was 1250mm and the other was 1600mm.)
ALSO, I don't understand how one can tell how/where the laser tube "maxes out."
I mean, it seems from your notebook data that your laser maxes out (100%) at 22mA. What am I not getting?
Is the maximum mA a parameter which is prescribed by the laser tube manufacturer (e.g. "a 50W tube maxes out at 18-20mA" -- and Lightburn reaches that when set at 85% power) . . . or can tell that the laser "maxes out" on the basis of the stock that is cut or what?
I purchased a 30mA meter for my 90W laser, but haven't installed it yet. Will a 30mA meter be enough . . . or should I have gotten the 50mA?
google.
google.
its overdriving at 100%
I personally would've use those water proof self soldering heat shrink connectors on the wires.
What gauge wire should you use and what did you use to drill out the hole?
16 and this : amzn.to/2FIgCuB
If you want to have correct readings you should zero out the mA meter. There is black screw below the scale turn it to zero out the scale. Now it is reading less current because it is reading from -1 or -2 mA not from zero. Also using Protective Earth cable colour for High voltage ground from laser is vileness. At last among electricians.
Good thing I’m not an electrician!
@@MyersWoodshop Amen!
Installed 30 milliamperes on my new 100w black and red Omtech laser. When I pulsed it, it goes negative instead of positive. Do I need to reverse the leads on the meter? Thank you, Dennis
most likely, yes
hi, i have a problem with my laser is there somewhere i can contact you to see if you could help. thank in advance.
email or on social media.
hi. i have a china 100w blue and white. is it the same amps on all the machines? and i see that everyone use the manual reader instead of a digital, is it a reason for that?
not same amps. Digital can fail, analog cannot.
@@MyersWoodshop Both can fail, and if anything a digital meter should in theory be the more reliable of the two. But the reason for not going with digital is that an analogue meter tends to average out the instantaneous power as it is slower to react than a digital meter, so making it easier to read. A digital meter will fluctuate wildly and so the display will be constantly changing making it difficult or impossible to read.
How did you determine that 85% was your "max" safe output?
He looked at his current meter. The manufacturer of the laser tube tells you what the max current is that won't compromise life time
My power supply has a digital mA display. Is that sufficient?
sure.
much better to use a soldering iron and solder the connections and cover with heatshrink tubing. or better still just join 1 wire to the black wire and the other to the powersupply where the black wire was, only one potential failure point then!
this is true. i just didn't feel like it at 12 in the morning :P
Good video and it allows me to draw a parallel with my Orion. A couple of questions...
Will a 30ma meter work for a 100W laser? I just measured the tube at about 1470mm depending on where you measure.
In one of your links you show the Ruida RDC6442G/S controller. What was your purpose of upgrading it?
I didn’t upgrade the ruida controller. That’s just the only ruida that I can find on amazon for those who have a different brand controller. I THINK the 30ma should be good for the 100w
Please, if you love your life and respect your family, hire and INDUSTRIAL IBEW Union Electrician to install the Meter. As a clue, for your 100-watt laser, I would believe the meter you need would be 50 MA. But it depends on the voltage applied, which is either in the manual or derived (calculated) from information on the tube. Handymen don't cut it if you are serious about what you are doing.
John Hansen yeah well, a little humility can go a long way too. Instead of wagging your finger and telling us how important it is for a professional to cut a frikkin wire, you could’ve just said ‘hey we’re really hurtin out here and could use a few bucks if you need any electrical work done’. Yes the power supply is extremely dangerous but I don’t think anyone is going to do this modification without understanding that fact and the guy in this video also made it very clear that the power supply/ red positive wire can and will kill you.
@@johnhansen2187 Stupidity everyone can do it....
Nice job..I have the same machine. I am a solder heatshrink kind of guy but other than that we did the same thing. Have you look at your lazer power supply? Mine is a 60 watt. I have done some checking and there are 1000mm x 50mm laser tubes that can go to a full 60watts.
Again nice job.
i havent. I need to check on that! where did yours say the wattage?
@@MyersWoodshop it will be printed on the power supply. I used a small mirror to read it.
What’s the max milliamp you run?
@@MyersWoodshop the max mine will put out is 24mA
What is that gray wiring raceway that you have . . . and where can I get some?
it was on the machine when i bought it.
It's called Panduit
What did you use to drill/cut the 2 inch hole for the mA meter?
drill bit and jig saw. didnt have a 2" hole saw
@@MyersWoodshop
Look up Square-D Hole Punch (or some of the cheaper alternatives available these days). When I made mock-up case designs for the military, I always used the Square-D punches. They make a very clean hole. They may sound expensive for a single hole, but I found that once having it, that punch size could be applied to a lot of other needs. A lot of products use full-inch size holes, so once you get a few of those punches, you will be surprised how handy they can be. Based on your measurement of the meter, I suspect that a full-inch size would be what you would choose. It is a good idea to make a test punch for some of those odd sizes on a piece of scrap metal.
It is also handy to have a metal hand punch for small sizes that you squeeze like pliers. They come in a kit form with several common hole sizes.
Just bought my meter. One video I watched he spliced between live and neutral. You do the splice just between neutral. Not knowing electronics, I'm confused
yep.
Only neutral!!
Magic question is, when it comes time to replace the tube, will the 60W tube fit in there and will the power supply have enough power to use it or will you just replace with another 50W?
50w because i'd have to cut the end to stick it through.
@@MyersWoodshop Your machine already has a hole cut in the side to take a longer tube. :-)
What gauge range would you need for a 130w tube ?
same, you're talking ma's here, way under 1 amp (.022 amp = 22 ma)
What gauge wires? I looked up 20-30amps and it's recommended 10-12 awg does that sound right?
yep.
20-30 milliamperes not amps.
Can you use one of those power taps to hook this up?
power taps?
@@MyersWoodshop www.ebay.com/i/123740376166?chn=ps&var=424345450314&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=424345450314_123740376166&targetid=883666369579&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9008533&campaignid=9426322714&mkgroupid=95066757065&rlsatarget=aud-496202329659:pla-883666369579&abcId=1141016&merchantid=138377393&gclid=CjwKCAjwk6P2BRAIEiwAfVJ0rLclUXPx3kR9ZtSvjAJDIwM21oGsQwffrsJ-mbISO9Z7F4zw4W-DCBoCFIAQAvD_BwE
How has this laser held up for you? And do you still use it?
i still use it daily.
you mentioned you have a camera attached to your machine. What camera is that and how does it work on this machine? Will you be doing a video about the camera?
check out my other video ruclips.net/video/-K4aF0nukKI/видео.html
Ok, so how this help?
I would suggest to use one of the current clamp sensors and just clamp it around the cable. That way you have no direct connection to the laser wiring and still get your amp reading.
Which one would you suggest?
@@Lpzn-us8iq a current induction loop is no where near accurate enough for the fine tuning needed for these tubes
Why cut it when you can just unscrew it from the power supply?
because i'm an idiot and didnt think of that lol
@@MyersWoodshop True. I found so many violations of the electric code and safe practice, I gave up counting.
Maybe it is just me, but I am watching the video, and it does not look like it unscrews from the power supply. Am I missing something?
Can you install a more powerful tube?
yep, but you'll need to upgrade the power supply too.
Nice walk through but why to use yellow/green ground wire for current? I would use black wire so you don't confuse anyone who services the machine in the future.
because it's what I had in my shop.
Completely wrong, dangerous and stupid breaks every wiring code, green and yellow is a designated ground wire colour , a quick trip to Home Depot for a $5:00 length of correct colour wire would do the job correctly. Also use the correct tool for butt connectors. Complete poorly executed upgrade
I don’t care, it’s my laser.
A bit late to the party but I'm sure they give you that earth/grounding wire to earth the machine body. The fact that your plug is earthed is totally irrelevant if the earth wire isn't touching metal on the machine chassis
maybe.
How do you keep your laser bed clean?
lol. i dont.
@@MyersWoodshop hahaha! Love it Myers. On a serious note I am finding my machine bed getting really sticky. How are you maintaining yours?
Seriously, I haven’t cleaned it once
If you do that, you lose warranty?
lol. I doubt it comes with one.
So is it false advertising that the tube is a 50W vise a 60W?
sorta, the power supply is 60w. but most lasers do this practice.
the "woodworker" repeatedly calls ammeter "miliamp reader"
and thats why I'm not an electrician.
We could tell you were not an electrician when you used that crimper and pliers. Almost made me want to cry.
where are your proper wire crimps??
You really shouldn't have used that spare piece of earth cable. At some point in the future someone may tap into it thinking it is an earth and then get a shock from the cabinet. For the cost of 6 ft of black why take the chance?
If you are going to use crimp connectors use crimping pliers and make the job a good one.
its what i had on hand at 11pm.
@@MyersWoodshop Noted, understand in that situation when you just want to get it finished and tested :-)
Hmmmm 2.4k huh mine cost about 3 but i built mine kinda a hybrid of daves gattons machine and pactric h Daniel's machine it is also on a 12 foot table was 16 foot hehe long story mine has the same powersupply mine is 50 watts it is also has a 2.2kw water cooled spindle router with the most ridiculous stepper knob ever made hehe let the photonic light cutting commence
Your meter came with wires? Huh. Mine didn't.
no it didn't
It was the extra ground wire that came with the laser. He just repurposed it, which I agree with earlier comment that yellow, green should be used for ground, not negative.
It's called a meter. A D'Arsonval meter. Also, I would be vigorously bitching to the seller that the laser is not what is advertised.
thank you. most chinese lasers aren't as advertised. common practice for them.
NEVER use ground wire for any electric connection!
too late! it worked!
@@MyersWoodshop it works, the trouble appears when someone else is troubleshooting, as green/yellow is reserved for PE
better add a disclaimer to try at you're own risk! Done wrong could result in a visit from the DEATH ANGEL
Only in America would someone use earth wire as a negative connection. Negative wire should be black or blue in europe. Why did you cut the cable? Move L- wire to meter and add a newpiece of cable fromeL- to + side of meter. Result no dare I say cowboy wiring.
So to dumb it down, remove black wire from power supply and run to - side of meter. Then run a wire from + side of meter back into the - side of power supply?
Darwin award nominee
good thing i didn't win!
Your wiring technique is really scary! Folks watching, please use a proper crimper for your connections, better yet solder them. If you thought you had a 60 watt unit, you may have a 60 watt unit. Your connections may be insufficient for the load and showing what a 50 watt unit pulls. I suggest crimping them correctly and checking your wattage pull again. Not nagging, but constructive thoughts to consider.
Are you shitting me?!
I am sorry but hell no! You do not use grounding wire for anything else BUT ground! As someone who repairs electrical and electronic devices on a daily basis that is just so infuriating to see. If I ever see that in a customer device it goes back un-repaired. I will not stick my hands into a device that has been serviced (or better butchered) by someone who thinks things like this are acceptable. No telling what other landmine botch job repairs that person has done before it landed in my lap.
I’ll exclusively use ground wire on everything from now on 😛