I too would be suspicious of the blown fuse and what caused it. However, several years back I managed to swap the flow and return pipes to the Fuel Regulator. This didn't cause an issue until I had driven down to southern Germany and I ran the system too low on fuel (into red). Isn't then wouldn't start until I had sorted the issue and bled the system many times but crucially, cranked engine with throttle fully open.
We also had one 110 that failed to start, but which started without problems if towed, or down a small hill. This was off-course a manual. Changed a lot of things, and sometimes it would start when cranking the starter. Changed the cables from battery to starter engine, but it did not help. When we jump started from another car, it started. then we tried adding a second battery, that is one battery for the starter, and another one for ECU and stuff. It did help. Finally the car was sold as a non-starter, or actually there was an exchange between a 90 with 200tdi, and this 110 with td5. The new owner changed the starter, and now the problem is gone. Actually, that was next on our list, but the owner was done with the car.
Had a similar problem on my defender this morning on checking the pressure switch one of the wire had snapped I reconnected the wire primed the engine and was up and running Thanks for the tips
Hi I'm watching this closely as I've just installed my motor after doing a lower end overhaul due to failed oil pump sproket. would start fine before overhaul just oil light on. Replaced bearings, oil cooler, dual mass flywheel flushed out system refurbished turbo. now will not fire after bleeding system several times. Has been standing for a few months while i did the work but now disappointed it won't start. appreciate this channel regards Garry
I have a bearmach hawk eye, If you go onto the bearmach site there is application list of what the hawk eye and hawk eye pro can do. The only difference I can see is with the pro you can reprogram the a new ecu to except the alarm system. to sync up. With my td5 starting problem, I was told that the copper seals on the injectors wear out and the seals on the filter pipe work also wears,letting air back into the fuel system. Trouble is everybody can advise you of what the problem could be,like myself I had to eliminate component at a time, till I found the fault. As you know if the fault is mechanical it wouldn't register a fault code,unless there is sensor being control by a ecu of some sort. Good luck with finding and fixing the starting problem. regards marc
Had a no start problem with a ‘06 Defender 90 and it was a bad fuel pump relay and socket. Td5 ECU could not be contacted by the Nanocom I had until fixed. Stumped me for a while that’s for sure.
There's a sensor on the bulkhead that will isolate the engine in the event of a crash. Mine has before just isolated the engine when it was parked. Gave it a tap and of I went again
I had a simular problem with my td5. I changed the fuel filter,as it could have had water contamination, I changed the fuel pump, that sits in the tank. checked the ecu connector. changed the fuel injection wire loom. then I found the issue to be a collapsed intercooler pipe. the pipe looked ok from the outside. but the inside of the pipe had collapsed. which in turn blocked the air intake. it might be this or not. but worth checking all turbo pipes. regards. Marc
I have a 98 Defender 90 TD5. Suddenly it won't start. It turns over, fires a first time then fails to carry on firing. I tested the fuel pressure on the supply line to the regulator and it was at 88psi. I also cleaned out the small filter on the return line from the fuel filter (filter was replaced in March 2016). The regulator is new and the car has been running without a problem for 10,000 km since. Any ideas out there?
It may be crank position sensor, also fuel not getting at right pressure. Another thing is that fuses are not blowing without the reason. There may be damaged wiring.
+Michal Labedz Yes you are right. Fuses generally do not blow with cause. I am sure there is damaged wiring as you have said so it will be a matter of finding it. Fuel pump performance has been mentioned a few times so let's start there.
I know this must seem obvious, but I would check the key transponder code corresponds with the ecu. Next would be fuel pump pressure. Great idea to open for ideas and suggestions👍
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Great havn't thought about that i.e didn't know the return valve was located there:) Best of luck and thanks for a great educative channel.
i've got a 96 disco with the v8 fuel injected motor that's also cranking no start. It also has no spark and no fuel injector pulses. It does have fuel pressure, and i replaced the crank sensor and checked the wiring to it was still working. I've also replaced the ECM twice now with used ones but both times when i put key in ignition the check engine light doesn't even come on (with the original it came on). Is there a specific process for replacing the ECM that i'm not follow correctly? If the CAM position sensor goes bad, will the vehicle have BOTH no spark and no fuel injector pulses? I thought it can run without cam sensor or at least still have spark... not sure what to do next :(
Where the wiring loom connects up through the rocker box to the injector loom perhalps the connector clip has come loose. A few fonts ago I had to do an alternator on a disco 2 and at some point I must have brushed this and with the same symptoms you had (turning over no go) it wouldn't run, when I saw it was loosely connected it back up properly and it went.
I eventually found the problem was worst when the battery was low after standing a few days ! The code reader indicated crank sensor not reading ? changed this sensor several tines but the problem was the same ? So while checking the wave signal from the sensor found the starter was producing a wave signal that corresponded to every compression should not be a problem but the starter cable runs inside the wiring loom thus inducing a wave into the wiring loom confusing the ECU ! I disconnected and isolated the starter cable and made and fitted a replacement cable well away from the loom problem gone !
Needs a fuel pump, regulators been leaking so long, diesel has damaged the crankshaft sensor wiring and made the pump work too hard. Wont bleed the air out for a restart after the filter change and pressure loss. Id nearly bet the gearbox top cover is missing too! The "insulation" on the crankshaft wiring is actually a braded shielding to stop interference on the signal. Starter sounds like its on its last legs or the contacts are burnt out and contaminated with diesel too, this can cause the voltage to be pulled down which can cause a no start. Been working at these lumps for 20 years and they're still going! So much for the td5 haters ;o) Had one thats got 389,000 miles on it and drive one with 230k original engine! It's the chassis rot thats killed them off now!
I'd check you had fuel pressure at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If not 4 Bar I would check the pump is working and then look at the little gauze in the input pipe to the fuel filter.
Does it start with a squirt of brake cleaner down its intake? And it definitely has fuel in the tank? Is there fuel getting to the rail? Is there fuel in the oil?
+Vishnu Rajendran Amboo This particular engine does not have a cam sensor only a CKP ( crank position sensor) Fuel pump I would suspect and really should be our first port of investigation.
+HB Good call. ! Yes it was bled and ran okay. It was only when it drove away that it cut out. There is a possibility that it is not bleeding correctly.
I have a landrover same problem the owner changed the CPS below the number 7th spark plug and when that did not work she was able to send the ECM to some place in new York to repair the unit. Plug the ECM back in to the car. Still cranks but does not start. No spark and I can not hear the fuel pump priming. Could this be a issue with the ignition switch? Let me as soon as you can thanks.
If the vehicle was running before servicing it has to be something connected with servicing it self.What exactly did you do except the fuel and air filter?
I have a request about cleaning the red plug, what sort of solvent would you use ? I changed my loom out a while ago and still get some oil residue on in the Red plug.
hi there i own a land rover disco 2 td5 it just died on me i have check cps and its test fine but i dont get a constant curent supply on my brown wire to my injectors from ecm any idea what would stop this from supplying current to my injectors how can i check input to the ecm to rule out sensors?
Did you ever get this running properly? If so, what was it? We had a problem where the fuel was returning to the tank too quick so the pressure wasn't there for the injectors. Basically had to fit a restriction to the return line. This is normally handled by the fuel filter, which can mean the fuel filter needs changing.
hi i have been following your videos a fair bit and about 7 months ago got myself a freelander 1 2000 model. Wondering if OBD tools like isoftcar can actually read fault codes in regards to solenoid valves on the transmission. Thanks
+Vishnu Rajendran Amboo Ah. codes are one thing, Checking solenoid valves are another. iSoftcar will give you ECU generated code but if you want to check your solenoids then they need to be checked with a good meter like I have to see if the PWM duty cycle is operating on the solenoid circuit. Anyway let's concentrate on the Td5 today.
2008 Land Rover LR2: No Crank/No Start; Steering Column Locked displayed in dash; U0415-Invalid Data from ABS Control Module Could all this be caused by a weak battery? Battery was down to 12 volts. Scan tool was able to read live data with key in ignition. All readings appeared normal for a cold vehicle. The instrument cluster lights up, head lights worked. Car would just not crank. Just a bunch of clicking while pressing the "push button" start button. What could the problem be? Any help appreciated. Thanks!!!
I been trying to deactivate or disable the alarm system -anti-theft on my 2000 Land Rover Range Rover. Any ideas on where exactly it is or which wire? It does not want to start and the dash gives the message engine disabled.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Yes- I've had this problem with my D2, one 110, and I know of a few other TD5's. Mine could run for a longer time, then suddenly stop. Normally it used to help bleeding the system. Tried to change the fuel pump, and it helped for a week or two. Then I changed the old battery with a new one, and it helped for some weeks. Then it got worse. Changed the fuel injector washers, and the fault was gone. Then a month later a friends 110 had some of the same problems, and we changed the washers on his also. No problem afterwards.
+Wouter Tom Mulder Set new ECM to vehicle facility. One click to get the ECM to fit with the immobiliser. Then there is a tuning setting to tell the ECU what vehicle it is fitted to. Finally all 5 of the injector codes were inputted to the ECU manually.
Interesting that the TD5 doesn't throw a fault code for a disconnected CKP other than 0rpm. Given that the wiring to the ECU seems like such a rats nest, I think my next port of call would be looking for injection pulse and fuel pressure. From the vid the compression sounds good - even at any rate - but that could be worth a look-see.
+Adrian Kingsley-Hughes Yes I am surprised too that the CKP is not registering especially since it is a life line to the ECM and the CAN network. . It did show a small amount of cranking speed for a while then when rechecked it had lost it. Until 2004 Diesels were not very good for providing EOBD codes and a EOBD reader doesn't connect on this one.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos you answered my next question with the easy start! Given the mileage and the fact that she's clearly held hands with quite a few people over the years, I'd also be thinking immobiliser maybe or it might be worth doing some cam/crank scopes to check timing (known good waveforms might be on the web somewhere).
if its been sat for a while then maybe an air lock in the fuel? spent days chasing fuel problems on a friends TD5 defender thanks to their weird routing system
Hi,all.I had same problem.first thing I changed fuel filter,cleaned the fuel pump filter(was clogged) and opened the ECU (plenty of oil in)cleaned it and next step ,bleeding the fuel line(ignition on ,5-6 times on acceleration pedal and wait, wait and wait,for about 5 min.)had to do the bleeding 5 times before fired up.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos but the video doesn't show that you have programmed the injectors to the ecu, so if in theory as you took the ecu out, changed the injector loom, checked and changed any fuses the next thing you would look at is programming the injectors back in. when I fucked my ecu after water damage the first thing was put a new ecu and decode the injectors. so you could rule out oil and water damage. then look at possible feul starvation and then worry about electrics, your video didn't show that you've programmed the injectors and ecu to work which would give you the same fault that your vehicle is showing. basics first before buggering around with anything else
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos I am also having starting issues and I don't think it is the fuel pump. The pressure is ok, replaced the injector seals and new fuel pump but the problem persists. I turn ignition on and allow pump to prime. Usually it will start after that. Sometimes however she will fire and then it's almost as if the fuel flow stops and she dies, after that you can forget a restart and leave her for about an hour before making another attempt. This behavior makes me believe the problem can't be electrical and must be somehow fuel flow related. No one seems to have the answer despite many owners having the same issues.
***** I wouldn't know how to tell. It is a 2004 if that helps. I will check the cylinder head tomorow but I am guessing it will be very hard to spot? But I am thinking you may have a point there because that could explain air getting into the system. Good grief I hope not. That bill is going to make my eyes water.
Sorry I wrote "happens" instead of "it happen right now " so I read on the internet about it of non star thing ( it happened to my while I was driving shot down without any symptom ) I read about a thing called spider module or spider alarm that thing it cut off everything from fuel injection to ignition so it says that if has some "dry joint" (a bad solder joint that makes a bad connection ) so my question is so what other I need to check ? ( fuses are ok , even the solenoid makes the clicking sound and the line of power supply has 12v )
If the fuel cut off solenoid is working with the ignition on and there is power there then the spider is okay. The immobiliser will cut power to the starter and the fuel solenoid.
+Dave H Nice try!! :D Seriously. That was taken into consideration however the filters are on the other side to the CKP wiring. You have brought up a good point though Dave, Fuel filter change although bled apparently correctly could have dislodged something.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I too would be suspicious of the blown fuse and what caused it. However, several years back I managed to swap the flow and return pipes to the Fuel Regulator. This didn't cause an issue until I had driven down to southern Germany and I ran the system too low on fuel (into red). Isn't then wouldn't start until I had sorted the issue and bled the system many times but crucially, cranked engine with throttle fully open.
We also had one 110 that failed to start, but which started without problems if towed, or down a small hill. This was off-course a manual. Changed a lot of things, and sometimes it would start when cranking the starter. Changed the cables from battery to starter engine, but it did not help. When we jump started from another car, it started. then we tried adding a second battery, that is one battery for the starter, and another one for ECU and stuff. It did help. Finally the car was sold as a non-starter, or actually there was an exchange between a 90 with 200tdi, and this 110 with td5. The new owner changed the starter, and now the problem is gone. Actually, that was next on our list, but the owner was done with the car.
Had a similar problem on my defender this morning on checking the pressure switch one of the wire had snapped
I reconnected the wire primed the engine and was up and running
Thanks for the tips
Hi I'm watching this closely as I've just installed my motor after doing a lower end overhaul due to failed oil pump sproket. would start fine before overhaul just oil light on. Replaced bearings, oil cooler, dual mass flywheel flushed out system refurbished turbo. now will not fire after bleeding system several times. Has been standing for a few months while i did the work but now disappointed it won't start. appreciate this channel regards Garry
Fantastic, thanks for the video, replaced my 15 amp fuse and voila! the old girl fired up again!.
I have a bearmach hawk eye, If you go onto the bearmach site there is application list of what the hawk eye and hawk eye pro can do. The only difference I can see is with the pro you can reprogram the a new ecu to except the alarm system. to sync up.
With my td5 starting problem, I was told that the copper seals on the injectors wear out and the seals on the filter pipe work also wears,letting air back into the fuel system.
Trouble is everybody can advise you of what the problem could be,like myself I had to eliminate component at a time, till I found the fault. As you know if the fault is mechanical it wouldn't register a fault code,unless there is sensor being control by a ecu of some sort. Good luck with finding and fixing the starting problem.
regards
marc
Had this on my td5 disco couple of months ago, AA recovery and a new MAF later, all sorted!
Had a no start problem with a ‘06 Defender 90 and it was a bad fuel pump relay and socket. Td5 ECU could not be contacted by the Nanocom I had until fixed. Stumped me for a while that’s for sure.
There's a sensor on the bulkhead that will isolate the engine in the event of a crash. Mine has before just isolated the engine when it was parked. Gave it a tap and of I went again
+henry stanford ah yes the inertia sensor. Could be tripped by a heavy door slamming. Good call!
@@trailerfitter2 where is the inertia sensor and what does it look like?
I had a simular problem with my td5. I changed the fuel filter,as it could have had water contamination, I changed the fuel pump, that sits in the tank. checked the ecu connector. changed the fuel injection wire loom. then I found the issue to be a collapsed intercooler pipe. the pipe looked ok from the outside. but the inside of the pipe had collapsed. which in turn blocked the air intake. it might be this or not. but worth checking all turbo pipes.
regards. Marc
I have a 98 Defender 90 TD5. Suddenly it won't start. It turns over, fires a first time then fails to carry on firing. I tested the fuel pressure on the supply line to the regulator and it was at 88psi. I also cleaned out the small filter on the return line from the fuel filter (filter was replaced in March 2016). The regulator is new and the car has been running without a problem for 10,000 km since. Any ideas out there?
It may be crank position sensor, also fuel not getting at right pressure. Another thing is that fuses are not blowing without the reason. There may be damaged wiring.
+Michal Labedz Yes you are right. Fuses generally do not blow with cause. I am sure there is damaged wiring as you have said so it will be a matter of finding it. Fuel pump performance has been mentioned a few times so let's start there.
I know this must seem obvious, but I would check the key transponder code corresponds with the ecu.
Next would be fuel pump pressure.
Great idea to open for ideas and suggestions👍
+Christian Toftdahl I'll check the pressure and check the electrics for bad earths on the pump. Will check the key.
+Christian Toftdahl ruclips.net/video/BENlNexvSL8/видео.html check valve in system looks a good candidate.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Great havn't thought about that i.e didn't know the return valve was located there:)
Best of luck and thanks for a great educative channel.
i've got a 96 disco with the v8 fuel injected motor that's also cranking no start. It also has no spark and no fuel injector pulses.
It does have fuel pressure, and i replaced the crank sensor and checked the wiring to it was still working.
I've also replaced the ECM twice now with used ones but both times when i put key in ignition the check engine light doesn't even come on (with the original it came on).
Is there a specific process for replacing the ECM that i'm not follow correctly?
If the CAM position sensor goes bad, will the vehicle have BOTH no spark and no fuel injector pulses? I thought it can run without cam sensor or at least still have spark...
not sure what to do next :(
Where the wiring loom connects up through the rocker box to the injector loom perhalps the connector clip has come loose. A few fonts ago I had to do an alternator on a disco 2 and at some point I must have brushed this and with the same symptoms you had (turning over no go) it wouldn't run, when I saw it was loosely connected it back up properly and it went.
+HB Yes, continuity check required I think.
went through this last year and it was a loose cable on the main fuse panel, exact same symptoms. Took days to find. That was a TD5 defender.
I eventually found the problem was worst when the battery was low after standing a few days ! The code reader indicated crank sensor not reading ? changed this sensor several tines but the problem was the same ? So while checking the wave signal from the sensor found the starter was producing a wave signal that corresponded to every compression should not be a problem but the starter cable runs inside the wiring loom thus inducing a wave into the wiring loom confusing the ECU ! I disconnected and isolated the starter cable and made and fitted a replacement cable well away from the loom problem gone !
Needs a fuel pump, regulators been leaking so long, diesel has damaged the crankshaft sensor wiring and made the pump work too hard. Wont bleed the air out for a restart after the filter change and pressure loss. Id nearly bet the gearbox top cover is missing too! The "insulation" on the crankshaft wiring is actually a braded shielding to stop interference on the signal. Starter sounds like its on its last legs or the contacts are burnt out and contaminated with diesel too, this can cause the voltage to be pulled down which can cause a no start. Been working at these lumps for 20 years and they're still going! So much for the td5 haters ;o) Had one thats got 389,000 miles on it and drive one with 230k original engine! It's the chassis rot thats killed them off now!
I'd check you had fuel pressure at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If not 4 Bar I would check the pump is working and then look at the little gauze in the input pipe to the fuel filter.
Does it start with a squirt of brake cleaner down its intake? And it definitely has fuel in the tank? Is there fuel getting to the rail? Is there fuel in the oil?
To give a guess on the engine not starting, its probably the cam sensor perhaps? or the fuel pumps itself?
+Vishnu Rajendran Amboo This particular engine does not have a cam sensor only a CKP ( crank position sensor) Fuel pump I would suspect and really should be our first port of investigation.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos perhaps a very "wet" glow plugs?
Oil?
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos yup over flow of engine oil on the glow plugs? am just guessing..
After the service was the fuel system bled properly after changing the fuel filter ?
+HB Good call. ! Yes it was bled and ran okay. It was only when it drove away that it cut out. There is a possibility that it is not bleeding correctly.
I have a landrover same problem the owner changed the CPS below the number 7th spark plug and when that did not work she was able to send the ECM to some place in new York to repair the unit. Plug the ECM back in to the car. Still cranks but does not start. No spark and I can not hear the fuel pump priming. Could this be a issue with the ignition switch? Let me as soon as you can thanks.
If the vehicle was running before servicing it has to be something connected with servicing it self.What exactly did you do except the fuel and air filter?
I have a request about cleaning the red plug, what sort of solvent would you use ? I changed my loom out a while ago and still get some oil residue on in the Red plug.
Good video Chris this channel is amazing perfect quality of overvoice an edits
+J lloyd thanks!
I have a request for a video, changing the injector washers and o rings ? would that be possible on the td5 ?
hi there i own a land rover disco 2 td5 it just died on me i have check cps and its test fine but i dont get a constant curent supply on my brown wire to my injectors from ecm any idea what would stop this from supplying current to my injectors how can i check input to the ecm to rule out sensors?
Check valves in the fuel filter housing?
+Paul Crump Good call. We are now aware of it.
Have you come across noisy fuel system. Sounds like a bad pump.. replaced pump, new seals.. 1 expert gone through it and still not fixed.
Did you ever get this running properly? If so, what was it? We had a problem where the fuel was returning to the tank too quick so the pressure wasn't there for the injectors. Basically had to fit a restriction to the return line. This is normally handled by the fuel filter, which can mean the fuel filter needs changing.
It was the fuel pump. Parts 2 and 3 will show you how we got there. ruclips.net/video/KMMbHWY8Qqk/видео.html
hi i have been following your videos a fair bit and about 7 months ago got myself a freelander 1 2000 model. Wondering if OBD tools like isoftcar can actually read fault codes in regards to solenoid valves on the transmission. Thanks
+Vishnu Rajendran Amboo Ah. codes are one thing, Checking solenoid valves are another. iSoftcar will give you ECU generated code but if you want to check your solenoids then they need to be checked with a good meter like I have to see if the PWM duty cycle is operating on the solenoid circuit. Anyway let's concentrate on the Td5 today.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Thanks for the feedback mate, helps a lot esp when there's loads to learn.. Thanks once again.
2008 Land Rover LR2: No Crank/No Start; Steering Column Locked displayed in dash; U0415-Invalid Data from ABS Control Module
Could all this be caused by a weak battery? Battery was down to 12 volts.
Scan tool was able to read live data with key in ignition. All readings appeared normal for a cold vehicle.
The instrument cluster lights up, head lights worked. Car would just not crank. Just a bunch of clicking while pressing the "push button" start button.
What could the problem be?
Any help appreciated. Thanks!!!
Wayne Stone 🙏🏻
I been trying to deactivate or disable the alarm system -anti-theft on my 2000 Land Rover Range Rover. Any ideas on where exactly it is or which wire? It does not want to start and the dash gives the message engine disabled.
My disco 2 would not start or crank and upon checking there's no power supply to the starter. What should I check next? Pls help...
Injector copper washers anyone? If the fuel pump is really noisy when switching ignition on...
+macsniper1337 Would the injector washers really cause a none start problem?
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos Yes- I've had this problem with my D2, one 110, and I know of a few other TD5's. Mine could run for a longer time, then suddenly stop. Normally it used to help bleeding the system. Tried to change the fuel pump, and it helped for a week or two. Then I changed the old battery with a new one, and it helped for some weeks. Then it got worse. Changed the fuel injector washers, and the fault was gone. Then a month later a friends 110 had some of the same problems, and we changed the washers on his also. No problem afterwards.
How did you "Reprogram it to fit the vehicle"?
+Wouter Tom Mulder Set new ECM to vehicle facility. One click to get the ECM to fit with the immobiliser. Then there is a tuning setting to tell the ECU what vehicle it is fitted to. Finally all 5 of the injector codes were inputted to the ECU manually.
Does the tacho bounce when cranking when ckp is working
Interesting that the TD5 doesn't throw a fault code for a disconnected CKP other than 0rpm.
Given that the wiring to the ECU seems like such a rats nest, I think my next port of call would be looking for injection pulse and fuel pressure. From the vid the compression sounds good - even at any rate - but that could be worth a look-see.
+Adrian Kingsley-Hughes Good call injector pulse. Compression is good. She runs well on easy start..
+Adrian Kingsley-Hughes Yes I am surprised too that the CKP is not registering especially since it is a life line to the ECM and the CAN network. . It did show a small amount of cranking speed for a while then when rechecked it had lost it. Until 2004 Diesels were not very good for providing EOBD codes and a EOBD reader doesn't connect on this one.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos you answered my next question with the easy start! Given the mileage and the fact that she's clearly held hands with quite a few people over the years, I'd also be thinking immobiliser maybe or it might be worth doing some cam/crank scopes to check timing (known good waveforms might be on the web somewhere).
to be honest im a td5 defender man, I have encounter all those issues and fixed them. after that im thinking a new wiring loom?
if its been sat for a while then maybe an air lock in the fuel? spent days chasing fuel problems on a friends TD5 defender thanks to their weird routing system
+Nick Heywood I think we'll have to get the piping off and check the filter head check valve to see if this is causing a problem.
how do i bleed the fuel system on a land rover discovery tdi?
my land rover won't crank or start and it don't show engine light on the dash.
dead ecu or main 60amp relay
which supplies the fuel pump and ecu
Hi,all.I had same problem.first thing I changed fuel filter,cleaned the fuel pump filter(was clogged) and opened the ECU (plenty of oil in)cleaned it and next step ,bleeding the fuel line(ignition on ,5-6 times on acceleration pedal and wait, wait and wait,for about 5 min.)had to do the bleeding 5 times before fired up.
+Bogdan Augustin Now changed the fuel pump. It took some priming to get it to run.
Water ingress through the plenum / windscreen into the internal underpass fuse box
+keeklepop yes that is a possibility. Good call!
It needs to go to the scrap metal yard asap
pack the thing up and list it on ebay, include a packet of migraleve for the next owner chris mate.
+honi9 lol
how do i bleed the fuel system?
watch through the video series on the Td5
anyone even thought about taking the ecu out you have to pre programme the injectors back into the system?
+chris grayston Yes it is to tell the ECU what grade of injectors are in the engine so it can adjust fuelling accordingly. Already done.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos but the video doesn't show that you have programmed the injectors to the ecu, so if in theory as you took the ecu out, changed the injector loom, checked and changed any fuses the next thing you would look at is programming the injectors back in. when I fucked my ecu after water damage the first thing was put a new ecu and decode the injectors. so you could rule out oil and water damage. then look at possible feul starvation and then worry about electrics, your video didn't show that you've programmed the injectors and ecu to work which would give you the same fault that your vehicle is showing. basics first before buggering around with anything else
Mine turned out to be fuel regulator not holding 4 bar.
thankyou
forget to say I have a hawk eye diagnostic tester and when I checked for error codes there were none.
+Marc Murphy does yours work close to how the Hawkeye Pro works? I mean all facilities on it?
faulty diesel return valve, high humidity levels,low voltage.......
I'd start with the fuel pump as others have said
+Tee Ve Okay cool. I got that.
+Land Rover Toolbox Videos I am also having starting issues and I don't think it is the fuel pump. The pressure is ok, replaced the injector seals and new fuel pump but the problem persists.
I turn ignition on and allow pump to prime. Usually it will start after that. Sometimes however she will fire and then it's almost as if the fuel flow stops and she dies, after that you can forget a restart and leave her for about an hour before making another attempt.
This behavior makes me believe the problem can't be electrical and must be somehow fuel flow related. No one seems to have the answer despite many owners having the same issues.
which engine is it? 10 p or later 14 / 15 p? I also understand that a cylinder head that is cracked can cause this problem.
***** I wouldn't know how to tell. It is a 2004 if that helps. I will check the cylinder head tomorow but I am guessing it will be very hard to spot? But I am thinking you may have a point there because that could explain air getting into the system. Good grief I hope not. That bill is going to make my eyes water.
get the fuel line pressurised then watch for a drop in pressure over time.
That happens with my 300 tdi
rusted pipe on the fuel sender?
Sorry I wrote "happens" instead of "it happen right now " so I read on the internet about it of non star thing ( it happened to my while I was driving shot down without any symptom ) I read about a thing called spider module or spider alarm that thing it cut off everything from fuel injection to ignition so it says that if has some "dry joint" (a bad solder joint that makes a bad connection ) so my question is so what other I need to check ? ( fuses are ok , even the solenoid makes the clicking sound and the line of power supply has 12v )
If the fuel cut off solenoid is working with the ignition on and there is power there then the spider is okay. The immobiliser will cut power to the starter and the fuel solenoid.
Working before service and not working after - sack the mechanic :) - maybe the crank sensor was dislodged?
+Dave H Nice try!! :D Seriously. That was taken into consideration however the filters are on the other side to the CKP wiring. You have brought up a good point though Dave, Fuel filter change although bled apparently correctly could have dislodged something.
I got an problem on discovery only pump is working but the can't start
Hate to be the person that says this but it should be non start instead of none start.
+Alan Tweedlie That's okay. Thanks for the proof reading.
Traduction français
Scrap it or spend £200gettin it done lol