How To Replace Upper Control Arm 04-09 Ford F150
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- Buy Now!
New Control Arm with Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASF...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace failing, rusted, rotted, or damaged front upper control arms. This video is applicable to the 04, 05, 06, 07, 08,09, Ford F150
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oanU/1A...
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oh5/1AX...
• 12mm 12-Point Socket
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/o8K/1AX...
• 15mm Socket 1aau.to/o8K/1AX...
• 27mm socket 1aau.to/oo/1AAS...
• 30mm Socket
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oZn/1AX...
• A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oapu/1A...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/owN/1AX...
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ou7/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/omW/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ovn/1AX...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/bpu/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Add stress
I watched the video just to be sure the replacement would go as I thought. Other than a couple steps I don't need, it's right on. I ordered the control arms from y'all bc I've used your videos a couple times to replace things on the wife's Civic. I saved $40 ordering from you vs buying from the chain stores so it's a win win. Your instructional videos are much appreciated.
I love how they make this job a nice neat 12 minute video when in reality it's 3 hours of knuckle busting with a friend per side.
You said it and I didn't catch it. It's a 12 point socket you need for the axle bolts. A 6 point socket doesn't work. Terrific video, thank you! Couldn't do this job without the time and effort you put into this video.
I did this recently on an '04 Expedition and didn't have to remove the axle or the lower strut bolt. I did remove the top strut nuts and swaybar link, which allowed the lower arm to drop far enough to move the strut over enough to get the bolts in and out.
Thanks for the video! I did this yesterday morning on my 2005 f150 rwd. Replaced both upper control arms and both strut/springs in about 4 hours. $425 in parts , saved me $900 in labor. I didn't remove sway bar linkage, still was able to get to everything relatively easy.
+Jimmy Blankenship Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
The mechanic charges way to much
This was my bill
REAR PADS - $90
ROTOR - 120 EACH
LABOR - $150
ALTENATOR - $225 + $80 LABOR
LEFT FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM $100 + $200
LABOR
SAILUN TRAILBLAZER WINTER TIRES - $194
EACH - $780 FULL SET INSTALLED AND
BALLANCED
LEAF SPRINGS $200 + $280 LABOR
ROUGHLY $1405
The best deal was 250$ for Front and Rear rotors and pads
Just the Altenator got it for 140$
The Left Front Upper Control arm go it it for 60$
I save 1000$
Thank you for the information for the hour you make of work
Just ordered parts. Thanks for the video
The Ford Workshop manual says to tighten the lower strut bolt to 351 Lb-ft !
2007 4wd f150, i didnt have to remove the axle, also sway bar link is easier to remove from the top if yours bolts straight up like mine. Upper ball joint is actually 85ftlbs, and it was easier for me to torque the control arm bolts before attaching the knuckle, just make sure you hold it level.
I found this video helpful, for the most part. Like DapperDan says, there are some steps shown that are not necessary to finish the job. Also, maybe I am alone on this one, but I wish someone had emphasized the importance of NOT removing the center nut on the top of the strut. Now I have to go rent or buy a tensioner to put the strut back together. Otherwise, nice video.
You dont need to remove the strut or the half shaft. Just the UCA itself.
Great trick using two wrenches for leverage. Also, thanks for posting the torque specs...it saves a lot of time.
Agreed! That's gonna save me a heck of a lot of time then trying to get a torque wrench in there.. Doesn't even look like I can on the driver's side, maybe the passenger side.
My strut came out no problem without removing axle as well. I appreciate the video but a few disclaimers are necessary, Ford must’ve changed stuff mid year here and there,, When I bought upper control arm there were 7 different ones, I had to get the manufacture date off the door to get the right one. Unless you have a factory repair manual specific to your rig, be prepared for some surprises
Managed to disassemble and reassemble with axle in place.
Not necessary to remove tie rod or axle to remove the strut. Just takes a little maneuvering.
You forgot to take the motor out...!
😂😂
Thanks for the video and the parts, save a ton of money and time
Durwin Hickman Thanks for watching 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
You don’t have to remove anything but the upper control arm to replace it. Y’all took off way too much stuff to do a simple job.
I am about to do this job. How can I get those bolts out without removing the strut?
I seen that too. I was like "stoooooop!" No need to remove all that. Take out the strut, take out the upper control arm bolts, and it's out.
Absolutely right brother, ridiculous !
I was just about to say.. why. Why do all that extra work lol
@@djwilson48625 just saved me so much time
I don't have to remove my front axle to take the strut out. seems like that's an extra step that I guess you had to do because of the ready lift strut? I have the 2 inch spacer and had no problem
Dude what are you doing? You removed alot of unnecessary parts. Your videos are usually spot on. Not this time.
I agree.....no way do you have to remove the axel , and why didn't you take off the brake caliper and rotor? that's a lot of weight to be moving around especially with your brake hose on, and I never use a wrench on wrench for leverage, I've seen some nasty slips using that method.
I'm about to tackle this job and was thinking the same thing. I just did my lower ball joints and now I have to go back and do the upper. Mine is a 2wd though but why does the strut need to come out? It looks like I can get to the bolts without removing anything.
@@billybro1999 It looks like the strut needs to come out to remove the bolts from the upper control arm.
Armchair quarterbacking but no information to support your comment. See my explanation above for clarification.
@@billybro1999 The bolt for the control arm is in a weird way. You have to take it off in order to slide the bolt out.
Are the upper ball joints replaceable or nahh cause I can't press mine out for a hit
Also you tighten those struts the shock bolts on top of the three bolts the car has to be on the ground
Isn’t that lower strut bolt supposed to be torqued to 351?
Yes
I have a 2012 Expedition and the outer tie rod is mounted with ball joint pointing down, not up like the F150 in the video. I'm wondering if someone installed mine upside down. Any input would be helpful. Not sure if I need to flip mine over.
Good video, someone know how much is the cost labor to do this job on 04 f150 FX4? I have to do both sides. Thanks
Do you really want to know the labor price?🤫😱, hold on tight on to something= a lot of money, mechanic is 100$ the hour; make your math
like 1k
Yeah dude what the hell are you doing I literally just did the job and didn’t take nothing you took off, two studs and one nut is all I took off
Essentially you can just remove the bottom strut bolt then lossen the top 3 strut bolts and drop it out of your way, then remove the upper control arm and replace it with the new one then raise the strut back into place tighten all the bolts and put your tire back on and your done. So many extra time consuming steps in this video
do you have a video of how to do the lower control arm also?
+Crankbait Baron You can find all videos for your vehicle here: www.1aauto.com/videos
Do you need alignment after?
+01svt4v21 Thank you for watching. You will want to get an alignment after to ensure all is well and you do not accrue extreme tire wear. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts thanks
Awesome tutorial but i dont think removing the tierod and cv axle was needed.
if you noticed new ones where installed reason for the removal he should listed video as more than just replacing control arm
mustand ford hey at least now we know how to replace everything lol
I installed 4x4 complet struts on my 2WD to get rid of the factory rake I just don't like how it pulls down on the upper control arms so much now. Are there frame differences from the 4x4 & 2WD?
yes. totally different frames
Thanks for video but needs one correction. The upper Ball joint should be torqued to 85 Lb Ft. The lower one is 111 Lb Ft.
does anyone know why my 07 ford f150 4x4 passenger upper control arm is so close to strut spring. I just put a new one. On drivers side you can wrap your whole hand around it, but not on the passenger side. it does have a leveling kit on the front can anyone tell me what to do its driving me crazy.
Let me simplify all this rhetoric in the comments. No, it is not always necessary to remove the axle. Here is why. Once you pop the tie rod end and the upper ball joint out, the entire spindle assembly will very easily lay off to the right, allowing easy clearance for the lower eyelet of the strut to come out. And after removing the top nuts from the strut, it simply falls out easily, allowing access to the inner upper control arm bolts. Also, It isn’t required, but it does make moving the lower control arm out of the way easier if you do remove the stab link first. But just remove the top bolt. Don’t screw around with the mess that is the bottom bolt on the stab link. Easy-peasey.
+NorthernChev Thanks for the feedback!
@@1AAuto I am going to replace the sway bar bushings and links as well as the control arms and struts. Which should I do first, bushings and links, or strut and control arm?
That inner tie rod is toast
+BRIAN THOMPSON Thanks for the feedback!
You need to remove the tie rod end but not the axle. Remove upper control arm ball joint. Then take coil strut out then rest of upper control arm. That’s it!
+John Smith We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair.
Well that's one way to reach around your elbow to scratch your ass. I saw 3 or 4 extra steps you don't have to do at all unless your replacing your lower control arm as well. I would suggest just replacing the whole 10 piece assembly for 464 from 1aauto because if not you will pay 230 for just the user control arms. Way better deal to buy and replace them all
Why did you take half the truck apart to change the UPPER control arms? Is there a reason as to why you didn't just remove ONLY the upper arms?
+Hollywoodfish Thanks for checking us out. We show this as the vehicle was already jacked up and we use the same vehicle to make several how-to videos. The other videos go more in depth for their respective parts. 1AAuto.com
I just replace the lower ball joints on my 2005 f-150 XL 4.2L and the axle nut is 36mm not 13mm not sure where that came from but now you have me worried
This must be on a 4 wheel drive but I’ve got a 2 wheel drive so mine will be easier???
And this is a Ford F-150 2004 to 2009 that lower strut bolt is 351 lb of torque
The underside of my lower control arm (2004 expedition) isn’t the same as shown here. The sway bar link isn’t accessible with a wrench, only socket, recessed in a nice little hole, And of course it wants to spin. Special tool required?
+Kyle Chadwick Check the end of the stud, there may be a spot to put an allen wrench or flat headed screw drive to keep the stud from spinning. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts yes there’s a place to hold stud end, but when it’s recessed into a hole the only way to get at it is w a deep socket, therefore no way to hold stud. I could see how one of those special ‘thru’ sockets would work here, but. I just tightened it after I let the car off jack. Didn’t spin after putting weight back on it.
My upper control arm's cam bolts have no obstruction on a 07 F150. I just put a jackstand on each side and undid the two bolts and ball joint. I didnt even remove the tire. You guy's are tripping or have an unlucky model.
+Neil Lameier Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
I'm doing an 07 right now and the cam bolts wont come out because they hit the strut.
I Googled the torque for the lug nuts and it's 150 Ft lbs not 120
seems removing and replacing the strut/spring is the biggest part of the job..if the control arm bolts weren't hidden up there the job would be a little easier.
+Dante Steel Thanks for watching. We carry the control arm shown in this video on our website with free shipping. Here's a link to it, in case anyone would like to take a look at them. www.1aauto.com/control-arm-with-ball-joint-driver-side-front/i/1asfu00077?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Old comment, I know.. I'm gonna be trying what I've seen another video recommend: just the three 15 mm strut nuts and the top 18mm nut on the sway bar link, then just shimmy it down with a pry bar. I just replaced the sway bar links/bushings a month ago, so they should be the easiest.
Dante steel ford makes nothing simple when it comes to repairs. I’m currently working on overhauling almost every component in the passenger side of my expedition and it’s been nothing but a pain in my ass lol
The other video from you guys shows not doing that
Is this the same as 4wd ???
+casey bartlett We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Air tools speed up the process
why did he take the axel out
Yeah you guys are good the last video but what you're doing right now unless you're changing more than the upper control arms is ridiculous
Gracias por tu información.
Ford sure made lots of 4 wheel drive trucks
Thanks for watching our video! +jason bell
Get er done !!
Or supported by the jack on the bottom looks like you guys did that but taking that whole thing disassembly from the rotor and all that stuff the axle you don't have to do that the video you guys produce shows nothing like that you're creating more work
It's only the upper control arm I assume
ive done it without pulling axle
Thanks for the comments and for watching. +w.o.t.
Can't this be done without removing the axle. Just taking the strut out.
i agree.. not a mechanic but have seen plenty of vids where they don't have to remove the axle... seems excessive.... but i am just Joe Schmoe.. lol
It can 100% be done without that.
I just went to get alignment done today and found my driver side upper has a bad ball joint. Just watched this video and went out to look at mine and it definitely looks like I could easily replace the upper on mine without removing cv axle and strut/spring. There is plenty of room on mine to get to the bolts on the interior of strut housing.
You certainly remove the axle. Did this job without this video and it's apparent you need to remove it for extra room to remove the strut, if you don't you will fight with it forever and at least damage your axle boot. It's 6 12mm bolts.;
no need to take out spring/shock....take a sawzall and cut the ends of the factory bolts right to the nut...then you can get a ratchet on that end and box end on the other...pick up a few 9/16 grade 8 bolts ,nuts and lock washers you are good to go...1 hour job..
you need to cut the bolt so you can slide it far enough in to clear the arm....otherwise it will hit the spring.
+working shlub Thank you for the suggestions and for watching!
But then how do you get the new bolts in with the shock in the way?
The release the reason you loosen the three bolts on the shock and drop it pry it down move it out the way is only get the bolts the right left side of the upper control arm the bolts won't come out with the spring in the way these guys are over killing you do not have to do it
All that for the uca
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +L M
This makes no sense putting an 8 mm socket on threads
Definitely doesn’t look like you need to spend an extra half hour to take the axle off
How much $ control armd
How much $ control arms
You can’t just buy the ball joint
Oh my God, just make it easy and short next time.
Seriously we're just changing out the upper control arm. No need for all that disassembly lol
All these videos doing too much! I just swapped my UCA's with removing anything but the UCA. The bolt slides behind the strut and theres plenty of space.
Not on the one I'm working on.
Ppl