Successes and a few whippers in North Wales. I'd wanted to return to Mission Impossible E9 7a for four years. My book on climbing injuries: www.davemacleo...
What a great video and climb! I loved the bit with Amelie showing her 100% commitment and dynamic moves! Also seeing your feet skating around after the crux move on Mission Impossible highlights just how bad/nonexistent the feet are on that climb, really got the blood flowing. Thanks for sharing!
Sweet video! Tom Livingston casually crushing … Amelie not blinking after that whip and sending. And of course, Dave climbing the impossible. Your thought process is helpful as a trad climber aspiring to break into more technical terrain.
I was surprised to see that even at your level, shaky legs still happen. I am very familiar with this myself, it happens to me a lot. I am unsure if it is adrenaline/fear related or just because my legs and calves are weak. It is somewhat comforting to see better (way better) climber having this happen as well. Great video as always.
Does not have to come from a lack of strength or fear, some positions are weird for your feet. In school we had this table with a ledge underneath the plate. When I would place my feet on it in a certain way, I would also get an elvis leg
Your videos make me want to get outdoors again. Classic Dave to slow roll your send videos with a list of reasons why you didn't expect to send...then does it anyway!
Loved this, it was great to see a little less polish so to speak with yourself and Amelie having a proper fight. Think we are getting a little too used to nice super polished sends that make things look effortless that often disguise the effort that has gone in.
Pretty certain the feet on Mission Impossible are imaginary and only sheer strength of belief causes them to spontaneously pop into existence! Brilliant video as ever Dave
Nice job as always! Have you heard of a route called Privatvägen? Supposedly one of the hardest tradlines around but hasn’t seen much traffic since FA.
@@climbermacleod Doesn’t sound strange at all! Based on information online the route in question does center around a crack feature but according to the first ascensionist Tomi Nytorp, the crack is impossible to jam so the crux is actually a bunch of crimpy gaston moves on nonexistent feet.
Fantastic video as always. On a unrelated note, is there any chance that Edge hangboards will be coming back into stock soon? I would quite like to get one :)
I'm curious about the culture of putting in pitons in the UK. Was this an old aid line or is it acceptable for free climbers to put in pins on harder trad routes?
The British trad grading system is made up of two different grades - the adjectival grade and the technical grade. This means that well protected but hard routes can get the same E grade as easier but bolder climbs. Eg. this and Indian Face are both E9 but different levels of climbing difficulty and protection. (I know which one I'd rather take the lob off!)
@@thesvenvids7708 I know what the British trad grading system is. Not done trad for a while so I guess I'm rusty on the grade nuances. However... I thought the whole point of the adjectival part of the grade was to reflect the level of protection or boldness and the technical part of the grade was about just how hard the moves are (or the hardest moves). 🤔
@@GJ_0008 The adjectival part reflects a very wide range of things like how sustained the climbing is, how blind it is/hard route finding is, how good the protection is, how solid the rock is, how committing the situation is. The adjectival grade has to be used in conjunction with the technical grade because, for example, E1 can be very safe and very hard if it's E1 5c or total death on crap rock with huge holds if it's E1 4c. Same type of thing for E9, except that safe E9s are pretty rare because rock that climbs at brit tech 7a generally doesn't have good protection (if there were holes for good protection, there'd be holes for your fingers, so it wouldn't be that hard).
@@devonrussell2309 I disagree. At any grade the route description has a role to play in letting you know what you are in for, typically it will state whether the adjectival/technical combination is due to protection or sustainedness or rock quality. I think the scale works perfectly well up to at least E6, I can't really comment above that but the "grading scale breaks down" argument is only really one I've heard applied to routes in the E9 and above range.
What a great video and climb! I loved the bit with Amelie showing her 100% commitment and dynamic moves! Also seeing your feet skating around after the crux move on Mission Impossible highlights just how bad/nonexistent the feet are on that climb, really got the blood flowing. Thanks for sharing!
Epic climbs by all, trad is the real deal..👍
I love your cinematography, not to mention your explanations and raw talent/strength. Always a treat to watch!
Impressed with Amelie! Great style and lots of commitment!
Came across Amelie 2 days in a row near Chamonix this summer, sick to see her absolutely crushing on that bold route!
Sweet video! Tom Livingston casually crushing … Amelie not blinking after that whip and sending. And of course, Dave climbing the impossible. Your thought process is helpful as a trad climber aspiring to break into more technical terrain.
I was surprised to see that even at your level, shaky legs still happen. I am very familiar with this myself, it happens to me a lot. I am unsure if it is adrenaline/fear related or just because my legs and calves are weak. It is somewhat comforting to see better (way better) climber having this happen as well. Great video as always.
Does not have to come from a lack of strength or fear, some positions are weird for your feet. In school we had this table with a ledge underneath the plate. When I would place my feet on it in a certain way, I would also get an elvis leg
Hats off to Neil Carson.
Your videos make me want to get outdoors again. Classic Dave to slow roll your send videos with a list of reasons why you didn't expect to send...then does it anyway!
Great wee movie...the heavy breathing and skitey feet took me back, a loooong time!
Keep up the good work Dave...great stuff...
If at first you don't succeed, try and try again! Well done Dave and fellow climbers.
Loved this, it was great to see a little less polish so to speak with yourself and Amelie having a proper fight. Think we are getting a little too used to nice super polished sends that make things look effortless that often disguise the effort that has gone in.
Pretty certain the feet on Mission Impossible are imaginary and only sheer strength of belief causes them to spontaneously pop into existence! Brilliant video as ever Dave
More sends than falls. I'm not surprised 😊
Enjoyed this thanks - apart from the music- so much better with just ambient sounds. Great work Amelie❤
Good effort digging in on that. That’s the most mortal I’ve seen you climb haha
Favorite climber and favorite RUclips channel. New video automatically hit like
Nice job as always! Have you heard of a route called Privatvägen? Supposedly one of the hardest tradlines around but hasn’t seen much traffic since FA.
Yes. It might sound strange but I'm not a huge fan of proper crack climbing. I prefer the face climbs.
@@climbermacleod Doesn’t sound strange at all! Based on information online the route in question does center around a crack feature but according to the first ascensionist Tomi Nytorp, the crack is impossible to jam so the crux is actually a bunch of crimpy gaston moves on nonexistent feet.
@@climbermacleod I feel like a collaboration with Pete Whittaker is in order.
Fantastic video as always. On a unrelated note, is there any chance that Edge hangboards will be coming back into stock soon? I would quite like to get one :)
Thanks and sorry no I'm not selling them any more.
Great send 💪
Hi dave, really nice footage and editing. Loved it. Keep em coming!
I was wondering why there's tape on the back of your palm??
cheers from argentina!
There was a sharp hand jam near the start of the route.
thoroughly sweaty feet and hands watching this
Nice video, I enjoyed it, thanks. What sort of French grade would you give Mission Impossible?
Unreal 💪
What hard projects, in Scotland, are you looking at trying this fall?
Many. This is the place to see them!
awesome
I'm curious about the culture of putting in pitons in the UK. Was this an old aid line or is it acceptable for free climbers to put in pins on harder trad routes?
It differs across the UK depending on local climbing culture. If I’d done this route as an FA in Scotland, I’d have done it without pitons.
Nice work Dave! How many pegs until a route is a sport route?
lol
Sport routes don't require traditional placements.
Depends how long the route is, doesn't it 😉
The footholds looked S**t in the crux
What's the name of the ridge at 0:22 ??
no clue but there is a pretty good ridge on Blencathra
It's Grib Goch.
Dylan Sitts is great.
Trad climbing looks scarier than free solo to me... don't ask me why
How's can an E9 be 'safe', i.e. fine to fall off? Or is it just a relative perspective thing based on experience and ability?
The British trad grading system is made up of two different grades - the adjectival grade and the technical grade. This means that well protected but hard routes can get the same E grade as easier but bolder climbs.
Eg. this and Indian Face are both E9 but different levels of climbing difficulty and protection. (I know which one I'd rather take the lob off!)
@@thesvenvids7708 I know what the British trad grading system is. Not done trad for a while so I guess I'm rusty on the grade nuances. However... I thought the whole point of the adjectival part of the grade was to reflect the level of protection or boldness and the technical part of the grade was about just how hard the moves are (or the hardest moves). 🤔
@@GJ_0008 The adjectival part reflects a very wide range of things like how sustained the climbing is, how blind it is/hard route finding is, how good the protection is, how solid the rock is, how committing the situation is. The adjectival grade has to be used in conjunction with the technical grade because, for example, E1 can be very safe and very hard if it's E1 5c or total death on crap rock with huge holds if it's E1 4c. Same type of thing for E9, except that safe E9s are pretty rare because rock that climbs at brit tech 7a generally doesn't have good protection (if there were holes for good protection, there'd be holes for your fingers, so it wouldn't be that hard).
The grading kind of breaks down once you go past E3
@@devonrussell2309 I disagree. At any grade the route description has a role to play in letting you know what you are in for, typically it will state whether the adjectival/technical combination is due to protection or sustainedness or rock quality. I think the scale works perfectly well up to at least E6, I can't really comment above that but the "grading scale breaks down" argument is only really one I've heard applied to routes in the E9 and above range.
First! Awesome content as always. Thanks so much Dave!