Many thanks for the video (All of them), there has to be a way to consistently set the needle bar bushing, I figure if it was done in a high paced factory, there must be a gauge, measurement, or block that is placed somewhere in or on the body to quickly put into correct position (Just food or thought). Once again, Many thanks.
I wonder would it be worth it to gently grind down a heavy needle to 1/6" above the eye, and keep it in the tool kit as a gauge? I have 7 vintage singers to restore, if that's the height for all of them then why not. I have class 66 /115/99/and 15
Thankyou for this video, exactly what I needed! 💚💚
You're so welcome!
Thank you for this very informative video and warning us not to remove certain things. Keep showing these videos.
I have used my blue taped needle sooooo many times. Thanks for the great useful tip and tool. 🦋
Glad it was helpful!
You had a stroke of genius there with the masking tape Bob! I'm going to use an old needle to do it and keep it set aside to use over and over. :-)
Not sure about genius, but I did go through quite a few failed ideas before the masking tape...
Many thanks for the video (All of them), there has to be a way to consistently set the needle bar bushing, I figure if it was done in a high paced factory, there must be a gauge, measurement, or block that is placed somewhere in or on the body to quickly put into correct position (Just food or thought). Once again, Many thanks.
Great! Now I want to pick up a 221 😈
Thanks Bob!
Don't blame me! :-)
Thank you - that really helped!
You clever cookie, Bob
ty for all your tips!
You are so welcome!
Great info! Thanks Bob!
Thanks Mary!
I wonder would it be worth it to gently grind down a heavy needle to 1/6" above the eye, and keep it in the tool kit as a gauge? I have 7 vintage singers to restore, if that's the height for all of them then why not. I have class 66 /115/99/and 15
I don't see why not!
Any difference with timing on the white featherweight?
No, it's the same.