How to Remove Clean and Replace the Hook on a SInger 221 Featherweight
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
- Donate to my channel at www.paypal.me/andytube
Remove the hook for cleaning with Krud Kutter and reinstall it on the hook drive shaft. Remove play in the hook shaft. Disassemble the hook and inspect parts. Remove thread stuck in the hook assemble. Install hook onto the shaft. Adjust the counterbalance. Testing for noise.
Music: On My Way Home by the126ers
00:00 INTRO
02:16 REMOVE HOOK
04:55 INSPECT HOOK
05:52 PARTS OF HOOK
06:47 REMOVE LOOP GUARD
08:35 OPEN GIB
10:45 HOOK BASE
14:42 CLEAN PARTS
18:41 ASSEMBLE HOOK
26:00 OIL HOOK
27:24 INSTALL HOOK
36:00 ADJUST COUNTERBALANCE
40:15 TEST FOR BINDING AND NOISE 
Хобби
Too many ads interrupting the video! What happened, you didn't have these ads before?
Correct, I did not have ads before. For 5 years, 550+ videos, and 2.7 million views I did not monetize my channel. Now I have monetized it. I've been incurring unexpected expenses since the summer of 2018. I'm falling farther behind in them. I felt I had given enough to RUclips viewers and could try to make some money now. I find I'm not making very much income from the ads, but I'm at the point that whatever the amount is it will help. It was not an easy decision for me to make, but I felt it was a necessary one at this time. If you've watched and enjoyed my videos in the past, maybe you could put up with the ads now. You can also signup for RUclips Premium, which allows you to watch everything ad-free, including my channel and all the other content RUclips has now. ruclips.net/user/premium
If you don't care to watch my channel any longer it's OK, and I get it; who likes ads? Thanks for your viewership in the past and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I so appreciate your channel! I’m glad you’re getting a little money from it.
@@hollypasquale1395 🙏 thank you very much 😊
I'm really pleased your getting some money from your channel.You have saved me a fortune with all of the help you have given so you deserve it. Thank you
Thank you very much. I hope Rafael understands why I monetized but I never heard back from him. I appreciate you watching my channel, Ann. Happy sewing.
Andy, you’re The Singer Whisperer! I foolishly purchased a model that you haven’t refurbished yet. There are a few videos available and I am grateful for them, but I literally watched someone explain something and say it was out of frame so we couldn’t see it and he left it at that! I grumbled something along the lines of “Andy would never do that.” Thanks for another stellar video; the extreme close-up stills with labels and arrows are so helpful.
Totally agree with you. Once you watch Andy, all others pale in comparison.
Wow, thanks! Very kind of you to say this. I started doing pictures like that after wishing the makers of other videos would have done so. The whole "picture worth a thousand words" thing. I'm curious what model you got. Thanks for watching.
Andy Tube I bought a 1938 201-2. I had to replace a missing thumb screw for the stitch feed regulator. I also replaced the feed dogs. For some reason the feed dogs were quite worn down. The first thread guide, which is just a little hook, is firmly rotated 90 degrees to the right, instead of upright. I haven’t been brave enough yet to open the potted motor to inspect the wiring. I understand there is a probability of it having to be replaced. I also understand that there may be a 201-2 rewiring kit available from an Ebay seller. The machine is quiet and produces an exquisite straight stitch.
I've had people tell me that model is the Rolls Royce of SInger machines. There is a blog about rewiring the motor and I have see restored motors for sale on eBay $70 to $90. I've never had the pleasure of even seeing a 201 in person. Happy for you!
This is the ONLY video that I found that showed me how to replace the hook parts properly!!! I was able to take everything apart, pulled out the thread that was causing the problem, and put it all back together, thanks to you!! Thanks so much Andy!!! You saved my life!!!
I'm glad you found this video. Working on the hook was a tricky thing the first time and I made the video for folks like you who want to fix their machine. Very kind of you to comment. 🙏 Take care.
I watched your video here several times - as I worked on a 221, it was incredible to know to line up the flat piece of the bobbin rod to the hook pointed end. Wow. I had at first done the reverse, jumping ahead of your video (horrors!) and NOT lining up the flat to pointed hook end - so the needle struck the hook, PLUS, I had jumped ahead and had the flat cap of the hook on backwards, as the SIMCO logo was on the INSIDE. Watch first, don't jump ahead, listen to Mr Andy! Pause the video, and do exactly what he says! Saves a lot of re-do! Many thanks Mr. Andy! I got the machine working great, and her owner is delighted. AND NO more OLD THREAD!
Thanks for sharing your victory news. I know my videos can drag on...sigh. It's just who I am, but the lesson is there for those who want to learn. I know you'll remember your work on this machine in the future, too. I bet the owner IS delighted and that is always a nice reward for your efforts. Thanks for keeping the machines in service, Pat, and hope you continue doing so. Take care.
Thanks for leaving this comment as the machine I just received has needle striking metal too…went searching to see if anyone else was experiencing this issue. I will sometimes change my utube setting to listen at a faster rate so as to not miss key instructions. Indeed Andy is awesome at explaining, showing and sharing his process… and helpful too are comments like yours 😊
Hi There Andy. This is helping me out 3 years after the fact. Thanks so much. I will keep you in my prayers.
Happy to see you still watch my channel. Thanks, and good luck with your painting 😃Prayers are always appreciated 🙏
As a warning to all others, I had fixed a 221 for a nice lady and the machine ran and stitched beautifully. I always include new Coats & Clark thread - in the bobbin as well as have the machine nicely threaded, and a sample stitch fabric. So, when the dear lady used up the bobbin thread, she used old thread and wound the bobbin, threaded it, and BAM! Immediately all thread hell broke loose. I drove to her house and spent an hour trying to adjust the tension, then take it back apart - looked good - clean out what I could see of some frayed old threads in the bobbin case.... But I finally brought the little sad machine back home and am watching your video. Now since the teeny screw won't come out of the gib, its reposing in Deep Creep with intermitted hair dryer treatments. I love the pace of your videos, you are patient, concise, and I enjoy when you chuckle over a little mishap.
I've been bedeviled by some of those tiny screws for years. You have the right approach, which is patience, IMO.
Hey Andy. Tip of the hat to your willingness to share your wisdom. I am a middle aged guy in North Carolina reinventing myself as a sewing machine repairman. Your videos have saved my ass. Much respect.,
Thanks very much! I'm glad you found my channel and thanks for saving the machines and keeping them working.✨
Am glad I found this video (and now 'subscribed' to this page. Bought a 2nd Featherweight 221 at auction only to discover the bobbin case was missing! Bought an original, used bobbin case only to find it would get stuck on the machine! I tried my own bobbin case and it fit fine but this original replacement one for this latest purchase was a no-go. Hubby tenderly sanded with a very, very fine sanding stone an area where we were pretty sure it was wayy to tight. Comes on and off nicely now. Then I discovered a "noise" when I started sewing with it after getting the bobbin case to fit. Flipped the machine over comparing it to my own original machine only to find the hook loop guard screw was missing. Ugh! I've ordered an original screw so I hope it's not messed up; but, was then puzzled, "Do I have to tear this whole machine apart to get that screw in?" THIS video was been EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you so much, sir. I will have to watch your other videos. These machines are fun but can be a pain in the neck - LOL!
I'm glad you found the video too. The featherweight is a fun machine to work on and so well engineered and designed. I do agree the vintage machines can be a pain in the neck at times; even a pain in the a**, but the results are sure worth the aggravation, IMO. Thanks for the nice comment and I hope the other videos will also be helpful.
Thank you Andy! I just finished removing and cleaning my hook on my new featherweight! It's running so smoothly now!
Welcome. It's always rewarding to work on the machine and have good results, isn't it? I'm glad you found the video and thanks for taking the time to comment.
Dear Andy, how to thank you enough? For sharing knowledge in such a pleasant and easy way. It would be wonderful for us learners if you could gather and sell a collection of your videos. Please?
Thank you for watching my channel, Paula. About selling my videos. I've looked into that a little bit as a few people have asked about it. This video you commented on is about 43 minutes long and contains about 4 GB of data. What would you pay for a copy of it?
The whole Lala model 221 Series has 26 videos with 1004 minutes viewing time (16.71 hours) and has 82 GB of data. I suppose I'd have to sell it on an SD card or USB Thumb Drive. That would have to be set up, with payment methods, shipping, copy methods, and so forth. Would I have my own website, or sell on Amazon or eBay; maybe ETSY? What would you pay for this series of videos? I have almost 600 videos. Should I offer all for sale? Gee, I wish I knew Bob Ross, hehe. I have no idea how to set all that up. Would you like to be in charge of it? We could share the profits! It's like the boxes of presser feet I have, the buttonholers, all the Slant-o-Matic PA style motors sitting in a box. I've tried selling on Craigslist but people only offer a few bucks, like at a garage sale, snd not a fair amount. I need a partner who has the time and knowledge to handle that, and I have neither. In the meantime, please enjoy my channel for free and I do appreciate🙏 your patronage. Merry Christmas.
Thank you Andy! I appreciate all your videos so much!
I'm glad you find them helpful and I appreciate your comment. Thank you!
Saved my day again. Someone previously put the bobbin case together wrong. I could not get the timing adjusted till I saw your video. The brief comment you make about " be sure this is turned so you can see the part number"...that was the problem...Thanks for all you do.!!
Whoa, that's a hard problem to solve! I'm glad you checked the video then. Nicely done, Geoffrey 👍
Andy I cannot thank you enough! I was able to follow your great tutorial & remove a bunch of thread from behind! thankyou so much!!!!🤗
Nicely done! Thanks for taking the time to comment, and for watching my channel.
Thanks so much for this video! I had taken the bobbin assembly off and picked out a tiny bit of thread trapped behind the plate behind the assembly. This machine also made the same sound as yours, a kind of metallic clinking, when it ran. I had no idea how to eliminate it, though maybe the thread jam was causing it. It turned out to be a bit of play in that shaft. I've put it all back together with the needle plate on to hold the positioning finger and ran the machine. The clinking is GONE!!😅 So happy I found your video, I've now subscribed!! Thanks so much Andy!!
Good job Mary. I'm happy you've pursued the noise cause and corrected it and I'm pleased the video help make that possible. Thanks for keeping your machine at tip top condition and in service and I appreciate you subscribing to my channel
You are brilliant thank you so much, I have been trying to clean mine but hadn't got a clue till I had seen your video. I'm still having trouble setting the shuckle back in but I'll keep trying like you did. Thank you again
You will get it, no worries. Thanks for keeping your machine in service, and for watching my channel.
I want to thank you Andy. I'm learning about the 221 because my wife is a quilter. As we were oiling her machine the small screw at 7:11 fell out. I knew I hadn't taken it out but where did it come from? I looked that thing over but I couldn't find a place missing a screw. When you took the hub of the hook off the hook driveshaft there it was and that's why I didn't see it. I looked in that spot and a screw was missing. You made my evening.
Eureka! Glad you found it and I appreciate hearing the story and the nice comment.
This is going to be really helpful for me. I saw thread caught behind the bobbin assembly that falls apart when I try pulling it out. Now I'll be able to remove everything and make sure it's cleaned out and oiled properly. Thank you.
Welcome. I had the very same problem on our 301A and that led me to learning about removing the hook. I'm glad you found my video and thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 much easier to get to the stuck thread. Screw doesn't want to budge though.
cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/765632108621594674/847182788838162452/PXL_20210526_184048070.jpg
Follow up: got the screw out. That little thread was barely in there but stuck pretty good. Cleaned it up just using fresh sewing machine oil. The area under the needle plate is pretty dirty with lint. Almost want to give it a good military cleaning but I don't think this will require disassembly cleaning. 😉
Thanks again.
@@W4ABN The thread looked tight even in the picture! I'm glad you stayed with it and got it out. I've always found the Singer Vintage Machines very forgiving and am pleased after a general cleaning how well they sew. Maybe it is just the good design and craftsmanship of days gone by. I've worked on machines over 90 years old that sew like a dream. Thanks for the picture and for keeping the machine in service. ✨
Thank you for these details Andy! Very helpful!
I'm glad if it helped and thank you for commenting. Take care.
Super helpful for a similar problem I've been having with my machine. Thank you, Andy!
I'm happy to hear that! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
THANK YOU MY FRIEND! I learn SO MUCH from you, you're so appreciated!
A very nice comment to find this morning. Thank you so much.🙏
@@andytubesewing1953 I found no thread jams but those pieces, especially the teeth are gross! LOL Thread was hanging up in that area and wouldn't come up through the feed dog. Hoping the cleaning and scrubbing will take care of that.
@@sherriscreativemind ALways interesting what you may find in that hook system. Good chance it will fix the problem but even if not you will have eliminated it as the cause. Thanks for keeping that machine in service and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 it fixed it and she's sewing beautifully! 🙂
@@sherriscreativemind WOW! So happy to hear this. Congratulations~
Great video Andy. Thank you so much.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching my channel.
found another one of your videos , well done Andy
Thanks, Trevor. Hope you are enjoying a few sunny days there. Too much sun here without a cloud in the sky and 45 dg C. It is Brutal.
Very, very informative. Thank you for showing this.
You are welcome, and thanks for the nice comment.
Thank you for this awesome tutorial! Saved my Bessy!
Sounds like you are off to a great start in 2023! Happy New Year, Sherri, and you too Bessy.
Great video, took me a while to get the bobbin plate back in though! Suddenly it just clicked in!
Nicely done! That little "snick/click" is a great sound isn't it? Glad it worked out and thanks for the comment.
Thanks for the tutorial! It was a big help and fun to learn!
Of course I love hearing this and I appreciate you taking the time to leave Such a nice comment. 🙏 Also, thanks for keeping your machine and service
This is why I dont use cheap or old thread. The one time I did use some old thread, it jammed about 10 minutes into sewing. Now I always use new(ish) Aurifil or Gutermann thread and haven't had a thread jam since.
Thanks Andy, great video!
Thanks for sharing! It's still true I guess; you get what you pay for.
Wonderful!!! Thanks very much for sharing your experience!
Thanks for the nice comment. I appreciate you watching my channel
Andy, you are the BEST! I've always found your videos to be top notch on your explanations of what your doing, what the part is, and watching things go awry is a great learning experience for me as well! A "why won't this teensy part fit back??" and just keep on trying! Glad you'll be making some $ from your hard and dedicated work! God Bless you Andy! Hugs, Pat
Oh, I think I'm blushing here. Thanks very much, Pat.
@@andytubesewing1953 To help as you do is God's Work. I couldn't help others if not your your patient and kind videos. Truly.
@@PatriciaSpayd Well then congrats to both of us and thanks 😀
Nice video. You're very talented and bilingual too.
Thank you! 😃 ¡Gracias! Salamat! Tak skal du have! Dankon! Kiitos! Je vous remercie! Danke dir! Mahalo! dhanyavaad! Þakka þér fyrir! Terima kasih! Grazie! Arigatōgozaimashita! gamsahabnida! Takk skal du ha! Dziękuję Ci! Obrigado! Mulțumesc! Spasibo! Faafetai! Hvala vam! Tack! K̄hxbkhuṇ! Teşekkür ederim! Teşekkür ederim! You are a kind man, Rafael.
Very clear and helpful!
Thank you very much 🙏
Excellent video, including the counter balance adjustment! My Clara had a loose hook assembly and wasn’t snugged up on the flat spot! Thanks for the tutorial. I’m thinking my totally stuck 403 might have a screw loose, too! Ha Ha!
Welcome. I'm glad Clara will be feeling better. Thanks for watching my channel.
I know all about not tightening my screw on the flat spot; from my 66 needle bar!!!!! Ha Ha! Hee Hee!
Great RUclips. Followed it exactly, however after putting back together my needle wanted to hit something. Redid it again and made sure all set screws in correct place - even reversed it and still hit something. I’m stumped and hadd to rake to a shop. Wondering if I did something to mess my timing? Thanks for all your effort
Sorry to hear this. I will be interesting to find what the problem was if yiu could let us know? Good luck.
Thanks!
Thank you Pat.🙏 I appreciate your support & kindness.💖
Excellent video with so much detail. I just purchased a 222k with same issue & have not been able to find any info on how to remove the assembly. I did try to loosen a set screw before finding your video but the screw fell out and then the gib fell off so not sure what is going on will keep looking for a 222k video but at least I know that I am on the right track.
I never had the pleasure of working on a 222K or even seeing one in person... sigh. Well, you can't always get what you want, right? The Featherweight Shop is a great resource center and they do have some parts and attachments. singer-featherweight.com/ You may already be familiar with them. On the Manuals page, they have service manuals (free) and there is an addendum manual just for the 222 model. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/owners-handbook-servicing-manuals Maybe those manuals can help. They also have a great SchoolHouse section with many good tutorials for working on the machines. singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse Caution: easy to spend hours on this website, so take it easy. Thanks for the nice comment, Patsy, and for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I figured out what the problem was when I reassembled the the case, one screw that holds the gib in was still screwed into the case housing so at some time it was put together with only one screw holding it. At least the screw was still in place so I didnt have to go searching for it. During the process I lost a throat cover small screw and they are impossible to find for a 222, much better to have a 221 when looking for parts. These machines are addicting, I now have a 34,35,36,41,49,55 221's and a 54 & 55 222, not to mention others, but so much easier to buy than sell! I just got the 222 problem machine up and running so great thanks to your very excellent video! I will check out your other videos but after this scary repair I am up for anything.
@@patsytankersley1372 Lucky the screw was there. I'm glad you got it running. SOunds like you have a small museum of early Singer models. Thanks for saving those machines. Enjoy your next restoration
Thank you again 🧵
I appreciate you watching. Thank you.
I appreciate you teaching
@@mikyboy7771now we got a good thing going on😂
@@andytubesewing1953 😁🧵👍🏻
Me gustan mucho tus videos y son muy fáciles de entender... Saludos desde México
Gracias por mirar mi canal y comentar. Es muy amable por tu parte. Esperando que todos estén a salvo allí después del terremoto. Visite nuevamente cuando tenga tiempo.
@@andytubesewing1953 igual la verdad me han ayudado mucho, hace poco compré la singer modelo 338 y hay algunas cosas que se me van y me gustaría ver si podrías subir videos de esa maquina, en verdad te lo agradecería y mucho...
@@andytubesewing1953 y si estuvo fuerte el temblor pero gracias a dios no paso a mayores donde yo me encuentro...
@@MariaSorianopch Aquí hay 20 videos para el modelo 338: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi
Aquí hay 31 videos para la máquina hermana 337: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5
También puede descargar una copia gratuita del Manual de instrucciones original de 38 páginas sobre el uso de su máquina. www.singer.com/search/support?title=338
Me alegra que lo hayas preguntado. Cuídate.
@@MariaSorianopch Bien, feliz de que estés a salvo 🙂
Another fascinating upload Andy, thank you. Singer seems to use bronze bearings/ bushings exclusively for all rotational points of contact...after 50-100 years of use, have you ever seen them fail or wear to the point they were out of spec?
I have done a number of 50+ years old machines and have never found one worn or misshapen to the point of causing problems. Plenty were dry and all were dirty. Bronze is mostly copper, so good heat dissipation and the OSMG I knew thought is was a type of silicone bronze chosen for hardness and low drag characteristics. Apparently a wise choice.
Andy thank you so much for this video! I was wondering I have went thru cleaning the hook areas just as you showed us, I can still hear a small metal rubbing could it be the needle hitting the hook? In that case what shall be my next step? Thanks a bunch! 😘
Thanks for watching my channel, Jacqueline. I can't really diagnose a small metal rubbing thru a comment. Yes, it could be the needle hitting the hook, or part of the hook, sure. Is that when you turn the machine by hand, or when using the motor? With or without thread in the needle? With or without the bobbin case and bobbin? See what I mean? What I check for first is a bent needle (I just put in a new one) and turn by hand, no thread/case/bobbin as see what happens. Run the machine without the needle. Be sure the needle clamp is clean and the needle inserted all the way up in it. Correct style/size needle? The needle bar height and hook timing should be checked. The clearance between the needlepoint and hook point is tiny, and wrong height or early timing can make the needle strike the hook, case, or drag on the loop guard of the hook. You can get a free copy of the model 301 Adjusters Manual by joining or sharing with this service: www.scribd.com/doc/230337487/Singer-301-Adjusters-Manual or if you are uncomfortable with that, you can buy a copy for $7.95 at this website: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-301-301a-sewing-machine-service-manual/
I have used both of those sites for years without any problems. OH, BTW, the last time my wife came to me with this problem on her 301A I found she had not been oiling the bobbin case area (like forever) If the instruction manual is needed, it is still a free download from SInger at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=301
Hi Andy good day ! I love your videos . Keep up the good work. Just wondering if you could give me few tips for removing the set screws from the hook hub . I have done every possible thing under the sun ….. ie …. I have used the penetrating oil , heat from hair dryer and heat gun but the screws are not moving even an aota …… what should I do ? This is really driving me crazy !!!! Your advice & suggestions shall be highly appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you ASAP. Thanks, Ram.
Sometimes it takes hours/days of using a penetrating oil or heat. Some screws, like yours, seem impossible to get loose. I use a method of hitting the screwdriver with a small hammer while turning it at the same time. I've shown this in a couple of videos but do not remember which of the 600 they are. Here is a video with a very good example of this method. ruclips.net/video/LSU7Ua7xyuY/видео.html There have been times/screws that this did not work either, so just kept soaking/heating. Recently I tried a new tool, an impact wrench and it works perfectly for removing screws like yours. I showed it in a recent video here: ruclips.net/video/t_m98Umuvy0/видео.html Good luck, Ram, and be patient and safe.
Andy that clicking ticking sound you are hearing is caused by flattening of those tiny flat spring in where you place the bobbin. You will the small projection on that place you put the bobbin to. Look closely on either side. Those tiny springs flatten out over time. They are a headache to change. I suggest you just leave them be and put up either sound. 🌻
Next time I'm around a featherweight I will check it out. That's fascinating information and I appreciate you sharing it on my channel. Thanks so much!🙏
Thank you for this video, clicking on my machine now gone.
I bet that clicking was worrisome. I'm happy to hear the video helped you with that. Thanks for the nice comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 now I have got to do the same on my other FW I thought it was just the noise they made before I saw your video. 😀
@@JonathanDowe My wife did also. !st time I heard it I asked what that noise was. She said it always made that sound since she bought it used. It sure must be a common problem. Good luck, and I appreciate you maintaining those beauties.
Andy ,I love your calm style and always enjoy your thorough videos. I'm a technician on featherweights too and I still love to watch and learn from you. Now a question: where can I get those amazing screwdrivers you use in the video? I'm not even sure of the correct name of them, but one squeezes and expands in the slot to hold the screw and the other has a sleeve that holds a screw - and for such tiny screws...I need them! Thanks in advance for your answer.
thanks for watching my channel, Rusty, and for your kind comments. The 2 small screwdrivers in the brass "tubes" were a gift to me. They are vintage and not made any longer. They are etched with the words "HJJ CO LOS GATOS CA" on one side and the words"MADE IN USA No. 3 - 8" on the other. I think that means size 3 and 8" long. I have occasionally seen them for sale on eBay and they sell very quickly. Sometimes 1 or 2, sometimes more, and once a set of 7. The latest was an auction for one of this same 3 -8 screwdrivers and the winning bid was $32 + shipping. Most of my friends are buying this set of drivers from KLEIN TOOLS. This set of 3 drivers have the "push piece" that spreads the tips to hold the screw, like the bigger one I own. www.kleintools.com/catalog/screwdriver-sets/screwdriver-set-slotted-screw-holding-3-piece They mostly bought them at Home Depot for about $28 and a couple bought at AMAZON for about $32.
Hey Andy! Thank you for such a detailed video! It is very helpful. How tight should the gib hook be? Mine is really tight towards the top. That is, above the screw it is really rubbing against the metal of the base. Is that normal?
I'd say it's normal. It's a snug fit with very close tolerances. Watch @10:00 in the video when I swing it open. I had to use some good force. If someone has opened it in the past they may have bent it slightly by pulling on the upper tip, which I warn against. After cleaning mine was slightly easier, but still a tight fit. If it assembles completely and sews well then no worries. There are new, non-OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) GIB Hooks available for sale www.sewingpartsonline.com/full-hook-gib-alphasew-singer-170160.aspx I've never used one but maybe there not made as well as the original Singer one. People also reuse parts from other hooks and even 221 featherweight parts as the hooks are similar.
Brilliant tutorial. My machine is now sweet as a nut
Nicely done, Rhian. I'm glad you found my video and thank you for keeping that beautiful machine in service
Another great, helpful video, Andy - thank you! The springy-dingy screwdriver looks interesting, where does a person find one, and is it magnetic? Hope things are going well besides being hottern’ hell.
I've asked Andy about those before too and he told me the ones he has were gifted to him and made a long time ago. I'm not sure they even have a brand name on them and I've hunted all over the place for similar but cannot find them. I might stumble across something in a yard sale one day. Andy said in a comment on another vid that someone he knows got some of the split holding screwdrivers from Klein tools and likes them.
So I got myself a set of three the other day and I have to say I like them too. They save me untold time from trial-and-error with screws I need to get in and out of tricky places or too little for my fingers. So far I've only used the smallest one but all three in my set look like they will be useful.
@@meganmills6545 Thank you for that info, I will sure go check it out!
They are not magnetic, but have the split-spring to hold the screw. They were gifted to me and I have never been able to find more. Vintage. Here is a modern day set others have told me they use. www.kleintools.com/catalog/screwdriver-sets/screwdriver-set-slotted-screw-holding-3-piece
Hi, Andy.
Hope all is well. Thanks again for your wonderful tutorials.
Hope my question below is not too confusing:)
I have been trying to find a similar screwdriver as your skinny gold one you are using in this video. I think i heard its a magnetic Hand Pressers Pusher screwdriver; by
b.j.j co ....
I would be very grateful if you would please share where I can get these type of screwdrivers; or what's called.
Best regards,
S
""... I think i heard its a magnetic Hand Pressers Pusher screwdriver.."" The type of screwdriver is a Screw-Holding Screwdriver. Not magnetic. The brass ones I use are 40-50 years old. Made by H.J.J. Co. LOS GATOS. They are not made any longer. You can find them on eBay on and off and the price gets slightly higher each year. I used to get them for $10 now it's $30. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=HJJ+Co.+Los+Gatos+Screw+Starter+&_sacat=0
Kline makes a set of screw-holding screwdrivers if you search for them. They also use spring tips but the handles are normal large screwdriver handles. No Drop Tools LLC makes a modern version of the HJJ co style with plastic handles instead of brass. www.amazon.com/NoDrop-Tools-Holding-Screwdriver-Phillips/dp/B09168HHND
USA Company FEUERHELM TOOLS makes a set based on the HJJ Co www.amazon.com/Feuerhelm-Tool-Holding-Screwdriver-Starter/dp/B0922Y2TV4?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3NB0C7LGRGZV6
Thanks for watching my channel.
where do I get that little "spring driver magnetic screw driver" you are using at 3:39?
That's an HJJ Co. spring screw-holding screwdriver. They went out of business over 30 years ago. They have brass tubes and push-button action to release. They are not magnetic but use two pieces of spring steel "blades" that separate when you push them into a screw to hold it under tension. To replease there is a plastic "button on the end you just press in and the springs come together and release tension.
You can find them once in a while on eBay but they are getting pricey. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=hjj+co+screwdrivers&_sacat=0 They last forever, I think. They made Phillips tip also.
There are modern knock-offs made with plastic handles that seem to work OK, Search amazon for "Feuerhelm Tool LLC Holding Screwdriver" and another brand is "NoDrop Tools LLC - 6-inch Screw Holding Screwdriver"
A web search of Screw Starter or Screw Holding Screw Drivers will come up with name-brand (and other) modern versions that you kind of twist onto the screw then hold the barrel and twist back to release the screw. They work well but are not as quick as the HJJ ones and you sometimes need two hands to use.
Question Andy, do you have a website? I’ve been trying to learn how to fix the tension thingy for a Singer 7110 and found out through your videos that the indicator was missing the horizontal bar. Is Sew-Classic shop still in operation? I need the part number for the 7110. I’m also trying to locate The Hook Timing Drive Gear Set for that machine also. Help!
No website. I am not a dealer. I believe the owner of sew-classic retired. You may find a used tension assembly on eBay but it will cost as much as just buying a complete new assembly. Here is a well known parts seller who has many parts for your model 7110, including the tension assembly and gears. www.sewingpartsonline.com/singer-7110-sewing-machine-parts.aspx?sort.ss_cat_sort=desc&index=1 Model 7110 is too "new" of a model for me to have worked on so I can't guide you as to gear replacement. None of my suppliers have a Service Manual for your model which usually means it was made in South America or Taiwan. Good luck, Jacqueline
Andy Tube thank you for your respond. The machine says Made in Canada. The gear of the shaft for the tension mechanism is metal. It has a long pin that does protrude out the back the screw that holds the shaft is on top rather than the side. I’m attempting to learn to fix the machine for a nonprofit Forget Me Not organization here in MS. I’m just a volunteer sewist. I wonder if it’s even worthwhile to go through the trouble. The machines that the organization buys or receives are very old. Then they are cleaned and somewhat repaired and taken to the Mississippi Correctional Facility for Women. The organization’s CEO teaches them how to sew specific items (dresses, etc). This items are then shipped to other countries such as Haiti or Africa and given to little girls. My friend operates on a small budget so I’m not sure if the machine is worth all the time and money that could be put in a newer older model that can last longer. What’s your opinion?
It took me this long to research and find a part. A friend in Canada emailed my the parts manual for model 7110 (I'll give you a copy free if you email andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask) The indicator dial on this model was actually called "Tension Spring Cup" (go figure) and the part number is 421739-456. It was common for Singer to use certain parts on many models and there is currently two sellers advertising a part they claim will work in place of 421739-456. (alternative part) That is a fairly common circumstance as the machine age and people look for parts.
Here are links to what I found: www.mrsewing.com/products/tension-spring-cup-for-507448-singer-44879-472
www.ebay.com/itm/SINGER-TENSION-THREAD-CUP-421739-456-FOR-507448-FOR-200-300-400-500-SERIES-/264593758819
It has been my experience with "alernative parts" that they may not be exactly the same in every way, but they usually do work as advertised. You pay your money and take your chances, I guess. As to a "newer older model" I think you need to go older. Model from the late 1970s and later (newer) tend to have mostly plastic parts and do not last anywhere near as long, are harder to fix when they can be fixed at all and parts found. Models like 15, 66, 99K (favorite 3/4 size) 201, 301, 237, 327, 337, ( mine cost $25, a gorgeous machine) 403A, 404 are all machines made with mostly metal parts. Some have belts that easily last 10 years and cost $8 to $10 to replace, a job that takes 5 minutes. Some have all metal gears that last a lifetime. These machines are easy to work on (IMO) and parts can be found because 100K to 2 million of the model was made. I have 500+ video showing how to restore many of the models I listed. I've had 2+ million views from 195 countries and territories and countless people have told me they restored the machine by watching my videos and it works great. Some can be found for $20 in thrift shops, yard sales and the trash. Some can cost $200 if in good working conditions. Some charities I work with buy from shopgoodwill.com on auction and fix the machines for charities. The models I mentioned, with normat oiling and maintenance, can sew for another 50 years, no problem. A shame to ship a plastic machine overseas only to have it fall apart. That just MHO of course. Good luck, and sorry it took so long.
Andy Tube thank you Andy. I’ll send you an email right away. Happy 4th! God bless.
My singer 301a makes a clacking only when I thread the needle and sew. No clacking when I run the machine with or without the bobbin but only when it’s threaded and sewing. The stitch is perfect but it seems as if it’s noisier the faster I sew.
Could the hook assembly just be wore out?
By the way I’ve spent hours and hours watching your videos and I’ve learned so much from you!
Hard for me to say anything about "clacking". I can tell you do not like the sound of it and you must feel it is abnormal. Do you know if you have the original bobbin case for your 301A? I've had people tell me the aftermarket cases (not original Singer manufactured) do work OK but are noisy so that is why I asked. On the back of the hook is a thread loop guard (stop me if you've heard this one) and it can get worn and the thread will scratch grooves into it over the years of use. Those scratches can catch the thread and hang it up of a microsecond before letting it go. Since the hook is still rotating and the needle is still lifting some pressure is built up on the thread before it is released. I think this can be the source of noise when sewing as it makes the bobbin/bobbin case "jump" or move a little when that happens. The scratches can get so bad that the thread gets caught and starts "looping" around the case and hook.
You commented here on this hook video for the 221 and the 221 and 301 hook/bobbin case are similar but I wonder if the "hours and hours" you've watched my channel did you come across the 30+ videos for model 301A? I did a fun "Coco" series of 19 videos:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI Then I did a technical series of 17 videos:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO
It also has a hook removal video and a "Disassemble, clean & repair hook" video here: ruclips.net/video/yy_yoD2CbWM/видео.html
Maybe you have watched these already, IDK, and cleaned the hook, and inspected the Loop Guard. If not it may be a good idea to inspect the loop guard and also see if there is thread caught between the hook and guard.That's about all I can suggest at this point since it is making a nice stitch. Good Luck, and thanks very much for watching my channel. ✨
Thank you for your prompt reply.
The bobbin case that I have is original and I even tried a bobbin case from another 301 that’s perfect and it still clacks when sewing. I think I’m going to have to get brave and pull the hook assembly off and give it a going over as you suggested but I’m a little daunted by that.
I have watched all of Cocos spa day videos (I have seven 301’s now) and all about Regina 403a too and I even found one for a decent price and it runs like nobody’s business after I cleaned it up and gave it a some oil and a good lube.
Please keep the videos coming as I’m watching you work on this featherweight. Thanks again for the advice. Stay safe and healthy!
Wow, seven 301's! Nice. Thanks for watching my channel so much. Congrats on the 403A also. Like it? Smart of you to try a different bobbin case to see if it made a difference. Don't be shy of working on that hook. Easy does it and no need to hurry. If you have stubborn screws be patient. Even if it is not the cause of your problem, with 6 other 301A machines you may as well learn how to remove that hook. Every one I've taken off has had some amount of thread inside it. I had a black 301 once that had a noisy hook/case and I tried everything I could think of to fix it. Cleaning the hook and sanding the scratches on the loop guard reduced the noise about 50%, but did not eliminate it completely. I sold the machine at a discount to a repeat customer who said she did not care about that clicking b/c she wanted a 301 and it sewed a very beautiful stitch. TBH, I never thought of switching out the whole hook to see if it was worn. The machine did have a lot of miles from looking at the motor brushes. You have 7 machines so someday you might decide to swap the hook for another one to see what happens. Thanks so much for saving all those machines. Don't be a stranger. 😉
Andy Tube I took the hook assembly apart on my Singer 301a just like you suggested and found a thread wrapped around it. I removed it and used fine grit sandpaper to get rid of the grooves that the thread had caused. I put the assembly back together and threaded the machine and sewed. I was so shocked and surprised that it now runs as quietly as my other machines! You should have been here to see me do a happy dance! Thank you for your videos!!!
@@MemeMisti Nicely done, Misti. Sorry I missed your celebratory victory dance, but I was there in spirit. I make these videos for people just like you that are willing to work on their machines to keep them running and improve their performance. I wish you were here to see my happy face while reading such a wonderful comment. 😁
In removing my hook, one of the two screws broke in two. I hope placing the remaining screw onto the flat spot will be sufficient.
I hope I win the lottery. Your plan may work, IDK as I've never tried it. The screw is part 462 "Rotary Hook Set Screw" and you can find new and vintage ones to buy online (thank goodness) I think for $10 I would buy one rather than chance the hook wobbles or the point gets damaged from a needle strike. Here are some examples, and I found others too. singer-featherweight.com/products/screw-singer-featherweight-hook-assembly-set-screw-vintage-original#productExtendedDetails
New screw: www.ebay.com/itm/191943056004?hash=item2cb0b29a84:g:v48AAOxyHBBSPzNz
Another new one: www.thequiltgal.com/shop/c/p/Screw-set-screw-type-Singer-221-Hook-to-Shaft-Needle-Bar-Position-Needle-Bar-Set-Screw-462-x10849110.htm
Sorry it broke, but don't think you're the only one that did that. BTW, that same screw #462 is used on your machine to hold the "Needle Bar Bushing (upper), so if you wanted you could take that out to use on the hook just to try it, but I'd really buy a replacement. Happy sewing, Steven, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks Andy. I'll seach for the part. The one screw is holding for now.
@@stevenarmstrong7575 Thanks for letting me know. I have worked on horizontal hooks and shafts that use only one screw. Most of the vertical hooks like in this machine have had two set screws. Honestly, I was surprised someone makes new screws of this threading that Singer used. Thanks again.
@@andytubesewing1953 I finished my 221 today and posted before and after pictures on facebook. If you would like to take a look. just search facebook for Steven Armstrong Lexington KY.
@@stevenarmstrong7575 I don't use FB but I'll have a friend show me. Thanks.
I don't mind the ads, I just ignore them like ads everywhere.
A very good way to deal with them!
Andy, I feel like I lost power before the movie ended lol! Did you ever figure out how to make the clacking noise go away?! The suspense! Maybe you did a follow up video?
😀 Thanks for watching. Over the course of restoring Lala, 20+ videos, the noise kept going down. Cleaning and lubrication affected it the most, I would say. Oiling the hook race/bobbin case base included. The last of the noise, which I could not eliminate, was due to the NON-OEM (not original equipment manufacturer) bobbin cases I had. The machine did not come with a bobbin case when I bought it. I tried 3 different aftermarket cases to find one with the least noise. Here is my playlist of the 26 videos for this model:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp Here is the video where I try the three bobbin cases during testing of the stitching quality of the machine: ruclips.net/video/XZ7JTqyI6f4/видео.html I have a theory about hook/bobbin case noise on the 221 and 301 models and I hope to test it when I'm feeling better. I don't want to mention it exactly as I could be way wrong and would hate to mislead people. I appreciate your interest and comment. Thank you and take care.✨
@@andytubesewing1953 I hope you feel better and will look forward to hearing about your bobbin case theory :). I just received a sad little featherweight missing the case the plate and the pins to the bed! Maybe someone started parting her. Paint not great but she’s not beat up. So I’m a little torn on direction.
@@nyssalanzafame9780 Thanks for watching my channel. Here is the bobbin case testing video: ruclips.net/video/XZ7JTqyI6f4/видео.html
If "pins to the bed" are bed cushions screws and feet you can even find brand new screws now: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=singer+model+221+bed+cushion+screws&_sacat=0
If you mean the screws for the extension bed, they show up on eBay occasionally too: www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SINGER-221-FEATHERWEIGHT-SEWING-MACHINE-BED-EXTENSION-HINGE-SCREWS/373314000435?hash=item56eb3f9633:g:cHoAAOSwHHxfoK5T The screws and washers vary a little depending on the year your machine was made though. You can find the year of your machine by the serial number or even some of the features. The cosmetic condition is up to you. I had emails from people asking why I wasted my time on a flawed machine such as "Lala", with its messed up paint and so forth. I don't care about that at all. She works great and sews a very nice stitch and my wife totally loves her and the fact that she was $50. I know there are people who collect them and have several of them and that's fine; at least they are not in landfills somewhere, but I like the vintage machines to be in service and sewing away on projects like the were made to be. Just my opinion 😊 We all have our blemishes but like to be accepted as we are I think. Take care.
Help please, I am perplexed. I have a 1942 featherweight. No problems in the past year if using. Regular grease/oil by myself. Yeaterday was chain sewing along and the fly wheel seized up. I immediatly stopped, took gib hook totally apart off of machine looking for a tiny piece of thread, or burr…none. So, i did a full maintenance. Today, chain sewing…froze again, took gib off and looked again, nothing. 30 minutes latwr, again…I took off the belt and the wheel spun freely, needle went up and down…put belt back on and it sewed fine for anout 30 minutes…took belt off, tried spinning motor post by hand, seemed a bit stipp but wasnt locked. Put belt back on and sewed for another hour+ just fine. Any thoughts of what is happening? Thank you.
Intermittent problems are often the hardest to track down. I can't really diagnose it without having the machine.
I would think you are on the correct track by checking the hook and/or motor. There are not a lot of places on a featherweight to seize. You say the flywheel seized, but that is only what you see externally.
It's puzzling that the machine starts to work Ok even though you do not find a cause for the stoppage. Only once did I find this seizure being caused by a motor. The motor shaft bearings were not being lubricated b/c the wool wicks had dried to a solid, hard condition and the motor lube could not wick down to the shaft/bearing. The bearings apparently overheated, expanded, and seized the shaft. After the motor cooled down it would run again.
I have no idea if your motor has this problem, but it does have oil wicks, and if it is the original motor it is 80+ years old so it may be something to think about.
Here is my 26-video Plaist for model 221: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp Five of those videos are about rehabing the motor.
You can also visit singer-featherweight.com/ They know more than anyone I can think of about the Featherweights. A wonderful family who have freely answered a few questions for me and bought and sold parts with me. They have a nice Schoolhouse section about maintenance and surely could advise you better than I can. Best of luck and please don't give up on the lovely machine.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for taking your time to try and help. I will not give up! I have ever so gently used a pin to see is the wicks felt soft…I have not pushed them in, just sort of softly scraped and they felt soft. It doesn’t seem to soak up much grease though, so I’m taking care to watch. I have had two people recommend adding one drop of oil to each wick to soften the wicks, and one said to put two drops of kerosine in each port…I have not done either…quite cautious. This last time it bound, I was taking the belt off to see if the wheel rotates and I found that the belt had bunched up under that decorative flange, once off the wheel spun easily. I was able to rotate the shaft on the motor where the belt goes. I have re cleaned the gib hook and was careful to have that .003 space when putting it back on the shaft, which I had not taken care to do that before…and thankful I have not lost any of those itsy bitsy screws! Tightened the belt a little, put some corn starch on it…hoping that does it.
@@suezeinstra2536 I've been told the same about a drop of oil or kerosene. Never tried it, just changed the wicks. A bunching belt could certainly cause a seizure. Gets warm and stretches. When was the belt last replaced? I've heard of cornstarch, too. I guess anything that works, right? Good luck, I'm sure you'll work it out.
I’ve had this machine for a year, put a new super belt on it. Probably has 60 hours on it, maybe a few more.
@@suezeinstra2536 OK, I'm glad your new belt seems OK. The one I bought broke in half the first time I used it. ruclips.net/video/1MVvB8AW-DQ/видео.html Why do you think the belt "bunched up" like that? Loose? Slipped off the motor pulley?
Read the UPDATE on the Super Belt: singer-featherweight.com/products/superbelt-v-black-fw
I cannot get the first two screws out!! I hit it with the hairdryer and even a little WD40???!!! I got desperate! I can see the thread too!
This happens sometimes. You'll need patience. Heating and using a penetrating oil can certainly help and you may have to repat that over a couple of days. I've wrapped the hook base with strips of t-shirt material soaked in WD40 and left it soaking. Using a hairdryer for 5 minutes and a squirt of WD doesn't always work when the screw is that stuck. There can be dried varnished oil in the thread, too, that is holding it tight. Again, be patient as it took 50 years to get stuck that hard. You can also use a closed-end box wrench to give you more torque while turning the screw but you'll need someone holding the handwheel for you. Another method is to firmly tap on the screw bit/ screwdriver with a hammer while turning as the sudden jolts can "break free" the screw. Once you hear the "snick" it will turn easily. YOu can also use a screw extractor device. I show an example of using one starting at 21:40 in this video: ruclips.net/video/t_m98Umuvy0/видео.html If you are not replacing a damaged hook you can try cleaning it in place, too. If you break the screw head it requires drilling it out and tapping new-sized screws to replace it, and that is a real hassle, so easy does it and be patient.
@@andytubesewing1953 thanks so much.
@@chrisyzuccaro1767 Certainly, and good luck. It's a wonderful machine and well worth the effort.
Wow:. That's 1939 221!
Yes, 1939. That's correct, Elaine. Her name is "Lala" and here are all 26 videos of her: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp Thanks for watching my channel.