RAZOR SHARP CHAIN! How I use a round file to sharpen a chainsaw to get the saw treeson sharp!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Here I demonstrate how I go about sharpening a chainsaw with a round file. I use a 7/32 file for this but for picco chain I use 5/32 and for 404 chain I use 1/4 files. Stay tuned to see how Inbred Jed’s square filing stacks up against my round filing!
![Cody Johnson - I'm Gonna Love You (with Carrie Underwood) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yy9PuYMU29g/mqdefault.jpg)
"Don't sharpen like a communist." is the best thing I've ever heard in a saw video. 😂
First, that method will entice you in with socialist spending and free filing programs. Get you dependent on "fairness" of each chain tooth being equally mediocre, remove your will to be more sharp than the other teeth, then whammo --- full blown 28" bar communism.
Not sure why I love these videos so much, I have never even owned a chain saw😂, I drive boats for a living (towboats/barges). I suppose I just love the type of work you guys are doing and I love that you take it so seriously and professionally.👍 I think if I were starting out again and young, I would love to have explored what you’re doing for a living.
Jake and Jed (R.I.P.) are great and knowledgeable guys...
I actually gasped a little when you stuck that chain in the dirt.
"Don't sharpen like a communist." You just earned an East coast sub with that quote.
And lost all his Seattle jobs.
@@ILikeFreedomYo LMAO
@@ILikeFreedomYo LOL😂😂
@@ILikeFreedomYo LMAO
tghh
There’s no way id ever voluntarily blunt a brand new chain, you guys must be nuts x-)
Lmao!
“Don’t sharpen like a communist”
As Buckin Billy says - "get the gullet". Well done there. Good demo of getting the gullet properly.
right on Billy... keep that gullet clean! how do you like a roller guide?
Buckin is the $hit
@benl😮😮😮😮ager710
As a complete newb to chainsawing, Hurricane Ian dropped a 90' Norfolk pine in my yard and of course all sorts of oak, jacaranda, and pepper trees.... I didnt understand just how easily chains will dull until you stuck your bar into the gravel for just a moment and then demonstrated how it refused to cut!!!! Here i had blamed the sudden inability to easily cut on me not keeping the bar straight....
Thank you thank you thank you!!!
When I started thinning pines in New Zealand, I thought that, if I took the rakers down hard it would cut faster, and it did. Then, about a week later my chain started to break, every day. Now I hand file the teeth, but use a guage for the rakers, got good cutting speed, and my chains last months. I use Stihl chain mostly.
Guys thanks a lot! We had three tornados in our little town of Seneca SC and I really appreciate you teaching us these skills. My saw got a lot of work today, helping someone much less fortunate than I. We were untouched but our town was tore up pretty good. My little Stihl 251 performed admirably however definitely needs a good sharpening. Thanks again
Buckin Billy Ray_ "get the gullet" Thanks guys, nice job.
Bucking Billy is the first one I heard mention the importance of removing the gullet metal. I’ve used many methods of sharpening with success but my favorite is still the first, Granberg file and joint, but if you’re in a hurry and on site, The Stihl two in one Easy chain filer is the best. It is carried under different brand names but Pferd makes them all.
Lmao!
“Don’t sharpen like a communist”
I’m super confused, you’ve got a brand new square ground chain, dulled it in the dirt, then filed it with a round file instead of a square file ?
man this gives me flashbacks to when my dad showed me how to sharpen a chain when i was 10. word for word but with more swearing hahahaha.
Oh man, are we long lost brothers?
Sure...
Lol
By far the most informative chain sharpening video on RUclips, it answered so many questions I never even knew how to ask. Absolutely brilliant thank you. I am actually looking forward to sharpening my chains now.
Lmao!
“Don’t sharpen like a communist”
When you stuck the tip in the dIrt i cringed. It seems so wrong. Great video.
as a chainsaw n00b, i could not believe it dulls that fast in the dirt. Good to know. Will be extremely careful
@@AmericanWorker1127 it dulls if you even touch dirt. This was extreme.
Found your Chanel this morning. Your doing a great job. Watched couple of your videos will be back for more. Keep up the great work. Thank you
You found his perfume? What was it? Eau de pine?
Try the new style sharpening tool from Stihl, its amazing!
I got one & I love it!
Pretty good video but you are wrong about a long cutter tooth compared to a shorter damaged one and filing rakers to the same depth and that it won't produce extra chatter and be less efficient on the saw,but of course I am talking ideal conditions,take a cutter link and look at it and I'm sure you know the tooth is angled back and the distance from the front/top of the tooth to your bar is greater than the distance from the back/top of the tooth to the bar,as you file the tooth more obviously this distance decreases as you get to the back of the tooth,and of course the bar isn't perfectly parallel it is slightly curved,an easy way to see what I'm talking about would to be take a chain with some longer/some shorter teeth that you have filed ready to use,lay the chain over a straight edge, the face of a level for example, and just get Jed to hold each end of the chain with all drive links touching the level surface and then take another straight Edge such as a second level and rest on top of the cutting teeth and you will see you have hi/low teeth which would mean one tooth is touching the wood more than another, regardless if all of the rakers are filed the same height to give you the same depth of cut,it's the same as if you had a half wore out chain and added one new link,it's higher than the rest and can cause chatter/uneven cut,you and Jed try it for a laugh and you'll see what I mean,I've been doing it over 30 years,just try it!!👍I believe it was around 11:00 you talked about it,I am talking about ideal conditions but just try it and you will see!!
Nice video, Really shedding light to those goofballs who think a chain is the sharpest it will ever be right out of the box.
It's like the idiots who don't sharpen a new lawnmower blade because they think it is perfect from the factory.
some guys never sharpen their chain.....I watched a guy try and cut his firewood and the shit was smoking, I took a look at it and the teeth where so fucked I couldnt even get the file into the tooth... and he had no idea anything was wrong........
When I was a kid we never sharpen the chains... I didn't even know that was a thing... We just change the chains.... I could have saved a lot a headache if I would have just known...🙃
Round file everytime, and no need for the guide once you understand the need for a gullet. Also using the 5/32 makes it easier to avoid damaging the top plate. Great video love seeing your method brother!
Also would be nice to check out surfaces of the cut wood section. Just curiosity!!!
Thank you for the video!
“Just stick it in there and go to town”. Got it!
That’s what she said 5:55 🤩
18:58 “you like those Fiskars?”
Man I wanted to hear that spin off into an axe discussion... edit jump, immediately let down 😂
SAME. DARNIT!
but, rabbit hole averted!! ha!!
I follow Buckin' Billy Ray's sharpening video to the letter. This one is good too, but my man Bill has the filing on point.
Hells yeah!
Most underrated comment ever quite probably don't sharpen like a communist
Counting strokes is ridiculous. Buckin Billy Ray does a demo video. He takes most off one side the does the rakers. It cuts straight and fast.
I Love to see this vídeo for two reasons:
- The CATHOLIC Icons on the background
- The content and explanation
They're not Catholic. Sorry.
"i'll just do it couple of times" (and then files the whole tooth off with 25 strokes lol)
I was thinking the same thing.
Jed needs his own you tube channel. Dude can climb
Thanks for awesome video! I appreciate the thorough discussion on the use of files and raker guides. Being a new subscriber, I also grateful for your honesty, straight foreword talk and no egos. I.e. talking to me as if I was standing there & not down to me. Great camera work too.
Thank you! :)
A couple of thoughts and note I have already said I really like your vids. But I like to contribute which these vids you make are perfect for. As I have said before this is my 50th year of doing tree work (and experimenting with sharpening).
I like to do the cutters by hand but absolutely no reason not to put the chain on a machine and do the rakers. Also I would never hand sharpen without gloves on as you're destined to take a nice chunk out sometime and maybe crazy glue will put your skin back together but the pain is still there. Especially with salty sweat on it the next day.
Like others have said, that raker and angle gadget is worthless with more time sharpening accomplished. To have to re do for the gullets is silly and if you cannot tell the angle without the gauge you need more time. And the more angle the better on soft woods like the live conifers you are cutting. But if you are cutting barkless deadwood...the sharper angle will make your chain bounce. So I guess the angle suggested by the factory/manufacturer ...is a neutral or good for both woods but not the best for either likely.
A magic marker is great for putting a red dab on the top of a cutter head to know when you have completed a cycle.
funny you say that, I'm lazy and always do that except the sthil yellow dot, always use sharpie, so I don't need to flip the chain and look for the double ...
I use a yellow lumber crayon to mark where I started
Long live the square body Chevy! Good video guys👍🏻
Omg that crew cab was beautiful. I have one similar mines a 79
@@rockkhound943 My cousin has a crew cab square with a 12v Cummins and a 5 speed. Awesome truck. Makes me wanna sell my ‘85 short box...but then it doesn’t lol
@@xpslinger8171 nice man ...thats a cool swap
Thanks for the tips !Shame to make firewood out of such nice logs!
Thanks guys! Going into my first season with the Forest service and it will be nice to have some idea how to care for a chain
Can you do a video about adjusting the carburetor.
I use the same gig. I’ve done a lot of testing and my preferred method on 3/8 chisel chain is a 13/64 gig with a 7/32 file. Gives a nice hook and gets the gullet. The file sits lower on the tooth with the 13/64 gig with 7/32 file. I also switched to 30 degree top plate rather then 25. I don’t know where 25 degree came from but if you look at the stihl chain guide manual they are all 30 degrees. I could tell a big difference in cutting speed and how the chain feed thru the wood. Way better in my opinion. I also use the husky raker gauge. It’s the plate one. It indexes on one tooth so each raker is set to that tooth. When you hand file your teeth are different lengths. The raker gauges that indexes on multiple teeth that are different lengths don’t work well in my opinion on hand filed chain. Good video guys. We speak the same language ha.
I’ll have to try 30! That’s how I sharpen my top handles, don’t know why 25 on the big saws either 🤷♂️
good tips! I think angle depends on wood and temperature - frozen vs thawed (maybe my hands cold wanting to get a job done?). I'm just cutting west coast soft wood, so the steeper angle works for me too ... East coast hard wood, maybe a different story though, or frozen too ... Funny, but I watched this video and he sharpens and has the same mind as me. But, was too scared to try hand filing square cut ... previous video ... but that video gave me confidence to try. I agree square cut is a little faster, as my friend had the silvey grinder, and that chain was a bit faster. Great video's though. I hope people just starting out can see it, and it isn't over their heads. I'm getting old and the ported 32cc saw with 12" bar is much easier, but slower ... don't even run a 562 much anymore ... thanks for the tips.
Guys, apart from learning a lot about the trade, I love your videos because I find myself lifted by how you act towards each other. There is a supportive, positive atmosphere, soaked in kindness in all your videos, and somehow that touches me! God bless you all
So I had this tree to cut down, and I was given 6 hours so now I've watched 4 hours worth of chainsaw sharpening videos... :D Seriously though, I'm always trying to up my sharpening game and this is definitely one of the best vids I've seen on the subject. Thank you. Timing the cuts sure puts a lot into perspective.
I always take take the damage off first then then concentrate on the fine details on the last few stokes, no guide needed. I’m also lucky that I can change hands for each side.
This makes total sense... Thanks!
⁷
My heart hurt when you did that first cut in a very short and great time then plunged the saw into the gravel!!!!!
I wish there was more detail, and actual pointing at the part they're talking about, because when the tooth is 1/20 the width of the screen, or less, it is far from clear which bit they are actually talking about, and I have a couple of Huskies and have been sawing for about 15 years, but only recently started sharpening my own saws - I _think_ I know what they're talking about, but some sections were far from clear - "look at that" ..... they know what they're talking about, and apparently it is "obvious", to them at least.
Yeah I wish they would have a pointy arrow added later on screen, or a pencil to point at it while filming.
Loving the Jesus Christus in the background
A silly question?
Your Orthodox?
Very effective demonstration on how to dull a chain, at the beginning of the video. .... never seen that done... i.e. before and after demo... Great!
I had also noticed that phenomena about the Oregon gauge... like it wasn't sharpening all the way, so I started focusing on freehand............. I think I will try your method of gauge+freehand. Thanks for the great video.
Use the guide, its the right tool for the job
Unfortunately, when you get to be my ago you must have a nephew present to tell you when it's sharp. My eyes won't focus that close even with my reading glasses.
I like to use a magnifying glass. Can really see the details
I have a few question for you fella. Would using a Arnold rotary chainsaw sharpener work better ??? The first sharpening takes longer but after that it takes about five minutes max. The size of bar is two feet with a 404 chain with 58 gauge semi-chisel teeth without skip. Does Oregon still make the chain ???? Maybe you have a unused roll for sale ??? Nice video too.
The goal is to separate the fibers of the wood with as little friction as possible. You'll get increased friction from dull teeth, for sure. Novices have a tendency to focus on the top plate, but it's only purpose is to lift the fibers (assuming a bucking cut). The side plate then follows by actually breaking the tree fibers and removing the chip. You'll see the same movements when using a hand chisel, though the steps are reverse. (First breaking into the fibers, and then clearing by lifting with the grain.) Reducing friction is why the top plate is pitched down (no need to drag the entire plate against the wood). As a result, the rakers have to be adjusted as that top plate wears down to maintain chip depth. One suggestion: pull the round file into the tooth from the leading edge. Your video shows the file grinding from the back of the tooth, which can leave a "lip" edge on the side plate. You'll feel it with your fingernail on the side plate. When that occurs, I'll take a flat file parallel to the side plate with the tooth up at the nose. Getting that lip removed will reduce friction at the side plate and result in cleaner cuts against the tree grain.
It is decades, rather than just years since I was earning a living with a chainsaw (and indeed being paid to teach other people how to use a chainsaw), but I always ground from the back of the tooth to the front, as they do here, which, yes, would often leave a little burr of metal on the cutting surface, but then my last action was to break this burr off, by striking the cutting edge with the base of the handle of the file…. It is a bit tricky to describe, but it quickly becomes second nature, and this would leave a razor sharp cutting edge with no burrs. I always used a guide, even when mocked by others with far more experience than me, because I ALWAYS found the chainsaw would cut better and for longer after I sharpened using a guide than without.
Buckin' Get the Gullet! Learning a lot from you guys.
I would like to see someone do a video using a 3" PVC pipe as a file. And a wood carved saw link. The real chains are pretty small to demonstrate the nuances of sharpening. Your thoughts ? Thanks.
"Don't sharpen like a communist" lol nice. I see what you're saying and I like it
Great job guys! It is great to see young people taking an interest in real work and knowing what they are doing!
I didnt learn to file both ways until recently, I was shamed by the guys that work with me and finally picked it up. It allows you to file in the field without a vice. Nice tips practice make perfect stay safe!
but the vice is so much better! and though i can do without, i feel so much worse without(particularly the top handles). vice is key for me. we have them on the chippers
Is everyone one just going to ignore the fact that with the first cut with the new stock chain he’s running the saw most of the time at or near the rev limiter? In combination with the fact that he doesn’t change the angle of approach for the saw nearly at all towards the bottom section of the cut? Other than the slightly skewed test ;) ;) a great video all in all. Always interesting to see how everyone has their own little tricks and preferences.
How many tooth (Chain) sharpenings do you do between each Raker file? Excellent Videos by the way also. Thanks.
Buckin billy ray smith mate he's the man and my teacher 😆 she cuts.💪
You are the most helpful RUclipsr out there! Thank you so much for all this free information it's chain saving
Maaaannnn! My saw would not cut!! I would sharpen and sharpen and still nothing but it’s been the rakers the whole time. Thx I likes and subscribed
Hey brother I'm from California and I'm so thankful I found your videos I love how you explain everything in details. Thank you blessing.
yer ya need some hook" i use just file cos know the angle, its on the handle. but am guilty of iinconsti, fukin the rakers, then shes not straight. cheers for the vid
Jed Walters RIP
RIP Jed
Love ur videos, great explanation. as always ,
Condolences to his family
and work colleagues from John mc govern in Ireland
Your camera work is excellent attention to detail is excellent thank you
I started doing my chain sharpening, wow, what a difference.
This is the only video I have found on doing this .
Thanks guys, very valuable.
There's dozens of videos on that...or even hundreds. But okay lol
Enjoy your teaching comments from experience videos like these! Both of your personalities are so cool... no arrogance or my way is the only way... just honest comments and opinion. You should hear my wife... what is it with all these chainsaw videos??? I just enjoy sharing all of your experiences.... takes me back to when I was a lot younger!
The top of your nail works great for testing for a sharp edge. You know it’s super sharp when you barely touch the nail to the edge and it feels “sticky”. I learnt this when sharpening chisels and planes for woodworking. That’s all a chain blade really is, Many planes lined up in a row.
I’m sure posting this on a 4 year old video will get lost.
Well you are a professional cutter using a chainsaw, There is a large proportion of residential users that only use their chainsaw a few times a year. And I have no doubt that your method of Sharpening a chainsaw produces a faster Cut. But that is not the only consideration. Kick back.
And safety are also factors.And it is my guess that the larger gullet.As you describe it produces a safercut for novice chainsaw users such as myself. Thank you for a very informative video on how to properly sharpen a chainsaw blade. Take care. 👍👍👍
In my opinion (not that anyone cares) Just my personal opinion mind you... if you use a raker gauge that rests on multiple teeth at the same time you are not tuning that raker to that specific tooth but if you use a raker gauge that only rests on the specific tooth its attached to it will cut much smoother and straighter due to each tooth taking the same size bite (my hopefully humble opinion)
What size file for the Kobalt 80-V Lithium-ion Pole Saw Model: KPS 1081-06
10 inch Bar 1/4” Link Pitch ?? Guage 58 Drive Links 1/32” Raker Clearance
Chain Type: 25AP058X Guide Bar Type: 100SDAA041
Impressive, but you're not giving due credit with the math at the end. The gullet sharpening improvement over the top plate sharpening is a multiplier. Do the math for stock versus final sharpening. 26.36 / 18.94 = 1.3917, or 39.17% faster ! I need to check my chain...
You mentioned in the beginning you were using a square cut chain like ( square ground or full chisel)? Also if so any specific reasoning why you prefer to us a round file instead of a double bevel file or square ground file? Thanks
Interesting you are the only person I have seen that sharpens like I do. I am 64 and have sharpened a couple of chains. The only thing is, I do it in the opposite order. I use the file without the guide first to get my gullet and then just take a couple of fine swipes on the top cutting edge with the guide. This is a final dressing of the main cutting edge. Also I move a little slower and with more pressure when filing. I like using a magnifier to check the edge. No big deal we probably get the same result. I think it is the best system
Nobody speaks of how long it takes to wear out a file, it get so it doesn’t cut, just rubs, it gets shinny, you can see it. Doing my 20 in” bar, the file starts to wear out after about 3 sharping, also I use a file guide, and rotate it to get a better filing surface, and wire brush to clean file with brass brush each use. I think it is great instruction for filing.
You can technically feel if the chain is sharp with your thumb, finger, finger nail. When it is sharp there will be a burr sticking up above the tooth. Easily felt if you run your thumb, finger, fingernail from back to front on top of the tooth. Dont forget to check the side plate too.
started with 404 chain 45+ years ago 7/32 file. last 25+ with 3/8th's. just went to order a pack of files and realized stihl recommends 13/64th's. hmmmm
I'd love to put that log on my woodmizer...
Cuts that big and solid a tree down, and doesn't haul it out to use for timber. I see this constantly with "arborists". Terrible waste.
Great video, covers a lot of details that took me a long time to learn on my own. This is gonna save people a lot of frustration :)
HOW long does the Cannon bar you are using last you using it commercially Fella ??? Thanks
have you tried the Sthil 2-N-1 filing guide on a Husqvarna chain, where I live my old boss swore buy this sharperner
The alive tortellini sequently screw because activity potentially flow astride a remarkable belgian. boorish, cultured curtain
Dude knows like everything I need to know when I was a shop guy at cascade I knew a little but if I knew what he was explaining in this video would have helped me out a lot
must be an Iphone, everything is blurry, like it works, but not good. typical apple product. It will turn on, but good luck trying to get it to actually work like it is supposed to unless you have 6 masters degree in technology science! LOL good video though guys! equip isnt your fault :-)
Do you have the express version of this video? Maybe about 20 minutes less. There’s a lot of video and talking for sharpening a chain
How many hours do you all let your saws out to play before you put the file on it?(Starting with a brand new chain). Also, let’s say you have a new chain, put it to work…do you visually do a check on the chain periodically after a bit of time or do you go by how the saw feels in the wood or a bit of both. Oh and I’m just trying to get an idea of what other peoples process is….I personally know everything there is to know and I’m at the point where I couldn’t possibly learn anymore because I’m on that god level. Just asking for a friend. 😉
Would you be willing to do a comparison between sharpening with a file vs one of those sharpening tools that you put on the tip of the chainsaw blade and run the blade through to sharpen it?
Thank you so much, only just starting out in the industry and this video really helped
Make a shirt, Dont Sharpen Like a Communist, and Ill buy it. Shane came up with Lucky Logger, so can you.
Yeah...I can't use the guide at all. I just use it like a holder for the file...like it will protect it a little. There's really entertaining character who is amazing with saws - look for 'chainsaw sharpening school'. I think that anyone could learn a lot from him, and laugh too.
Damn! I'd have turned those trees into lumber!
Mmm pulling the log out with a steel. Cable with no safety blanket. One snap and straight through the window into the driver.
Watch your video, your chain needs more tension and your rolling your file instead of keeping it flat
Only a small part of the tooth actually does the work . The depth guide prevents most of the tooth from doing anything .
You were trying harder because you wanted to prove a point. You could tell by both efforts. Not saying you didn't do a great job at sharpening.
Enjoyed your video's & information. When cutting, why not just let the saw cut and not use the dog but keep equal weight against the bar for a true cutting time. When I engage the dogs and press or lean into the wood it will go faster.
It look like you are putting more downward pressure on the chainsaw after you sharpened the gullet. Watch the comparison.
Wear goggles even when filing, just in case you need to get an MRI for some reason. You don't want microscopic filings in your eyes in that magnetic field.