Just done similiar in my 2022 MU-X and installed a JBL SL2, only difference is I took the speaker feed from the front two dashboard speakers, easy to take out and I soldered my subbox high level cables directly and fed them down into the footwells. I didn't want to fuse tap my rears and there are way too many cables in the MU-X to unravel in the first place. I also grounded to the seat but there is no bolt in the MU-X seats so I fitted a new bolt in one of the spare holes. The SL2 has audio sense so no need for a rem cable, only thing I find with the SL2 is that it doesn't shutdown for 10 minutes when no audio detected. Sounds amazing and a huge upgrade from the stock stereo setup! Thanks for your tips Adam, always helpful.
After i installed my subwoofer i found the sound quality better when i went into the headunits equaliser (EQ) ...from factory when purchased the headunits are always set on Flat and without Loudness switched on.
I got an 8" installed then realized I needed more so I sold it and now have the 10". Made a world of difference. I never crank mine to max setting. No need for it.. lol
Yes, that Kicker remote uses a 20K linear taper potentiometer to vary the resistance. A simple head phone splitter cable will allow one knob to control both subs. Just make sure the gains, all control's, are set the same on both subs or else one sub will always be louder than the other. 👍
I have two hs 8 in my carry and am very happy with the results, I did not use the supplied gain control, it did something to the bass signal and took bass away, I have been hitting them for three years now
@MarkKFerguson yes, also I wired them to my rear channel, so if I want more bass I can go towards the rear channel, or for less bass I can go towards the front channel, not to mention you can still add or take out bass with your headunit
Great video mate....and nice install. (and the other one with the underseat sub into a Jeep was good too). I'm currently shopping for an underseat sub for my d/c Navara. Not looking for huge SPL (it actually ruins good music IMO). I just want to put some foundation under my Kenwood + Infinity component set up in the front. I have a couple of questions.... - How did you mount the remote gain controllers to the dash? - Given that you already had an aftermarket head unit installed, why did you choose high/speaker-level inputs instead of plug 'n' play "sub out" port or RCA's at pre-out level ? - Pioneer, Alpine, Cerwin Vega, Kicker, Kenwood, RockFos, Sony, JBL, Focal.....etc all make active underseat subs with 8" or 10" drivers. Was there anything special or different that made you choose the Kicker units? Was it just because they were on-sale? Do you think they perform better than some others, for similiar money? I'm having trouble narrowing down my short-list!
Good video really appreciate, fornme where or how should i connect the blue wire in the harness where do that ine goes i have s Toyota RAV4 '22 not sure where it goes ? Thank you,
If the DC offset (auto on) is not working for you, you can run the blue remote wire to your fuse box. There are lots of videos online that show how to find a fuse that turns on and off with the key and there are fuse taps that allow you to add a second fuse. Just use a 1 or 2 amp fuse for that blue wire.
Thank you for this video and the sound test! Sound wise, would you prefer an under the seat subwoofer or a spare tire subwoofer, like the Jbl basspro hub?
@@VideoShowMeHow indeed, the JBL has an 11" driver, but the fact that they are in the spare tire, would it affect their performance, against this one which is right under the seat?
It really depends on the vehicle. If its a car the bass might have trouble going from the trunk to the interior so the under seat box might be best. If its a hatchback or suv the spare tire enclosure might be best. Make sure both can fit, if one style doesn't, then your choice is made for you.
Nice explanatory video, thanks. A question: would leaving the rear speakers connected and connecting the sub in parallel to each of them work properly / be acceptable? Or is cutting-out the rear speakers the only valid / good option?
@@VideoShowMeHow in the video the cables that bring signal to the rear speakers are cut (white and red) if I've seen right. I was asking myself if instead mounting the sub in parallel (a T joint for each cable instead of cutting) would work properly.
Nice finally someone with some input in this thread instead of telling this guy all the physics on the installation. Do you still have them and like it? I was going to put one in my 2023 4 Runner with stock unit and speakers. Thanks for your input
@brunoortiz1049 No didn't get enough feedback and some other bills came up still researching I only want to do it once so I want somthing with some quality.
Nice Video as usual. Although Hookin up a powered sub into the rear speaker cables that are amplified from the headunit is not a good idea like this. It's actually tapping into and taking away power that should be going to the rear speakers. Should 100% be coming out of RCA's or sub output out the back of the unit that runs at line level to feed the subs that are powered.
Hey mate, it's not drawing any power from speakers, just uses for signal, power comes from +ve battery (red wire). These subs don't have an RCA in unfortunately. This is how kicker recommends installing these.
@@VideoShowMeHow I realise what it's doing regarding only signal and that hte sub has seperate power. Even if Kicker say to do it, it's still wrong really. Reason being is that the headunit is sending a amplified signal to the rear speakers which are passive. Then you are tapping into that and taking signal off to another device which is taking power away for that to send signal to the sub. Yes it can work but it's really not a good way or the correct way it should be done. Turning the head unit up could easily send substantial amount of watts/power to the sub input and overloading it and then performance of the rear speakers is also affected due to sharing signal. I really can't beleive Kicker would recommend doing this, it's bizzare and goes against all audio and signaling best practices.
@@hiltonstroud1399 literally in the manual bud. The amount of power 'being taken away' would be tiny. I agree I'd prefer to use an proper RCA signal end to end etc but for something like this it's hardly SPL or audiophile anyway 👍
in my mind im thinking the same. if you had the halo HU the radio has much more controls/ crossovers etc if you connected them via RCA ps these under seat subs work a lot better when they are solidly mounted to the vehicle. I installed a sub amp combo unit in the rear seats standing up up as my child is in car seat and feet don't touch the floor. even when they do its a very slim unit Rockford p300 8 inch unit so much more output compared to an underseat unit
Quick question. Did you link the 2 subs together as far as wiring goes to go to the battery or where they wired separately with two inline fuses? Did you wire them as far as the output goes such left and right speakers tying them into the factory rear left and right speakers?
If you want to use two of these, a single 8ga wire an 30A fuse is more than enough. You can go to the battery or even the fuse box input since they draw so little power.
These units use a 15A fuse so full volume it might draw 15A. At normal listening levels you might measure 2 to 5 amps depending on the bass in the song and what frequency it's at. The most efficient setup would be a large driver or multiple drivers on a small amp. Especially using a ported box. You basically choose between power efficiency or space. Small sealed enclosures like this are not very power efficient, but they take up small space. So you have to choose which is more important to you.
Thanks for the video. We likely do the same. Do you think the head unit and sub upgrade is sufficient for a non audiophile or are you going to upgrade the factory speakers?
Yeah they go really well, probably too much haha. I am going to do speakers as well but you could always start with a sub and see how you go 👍 1x of those kicker 10s (link in description) will be enough for most people I reckon 😀
Brilliant. Im a music type guy with bass. How much in total to spend including the double din? Please give me figure. Thanks and more power. Da bessssstttt.
Hi. Love the video, but on my 2023 Dmax Xterrain there are two twisted pairs on the passenger side. Im guessing one is for roof speakers and one for back speaker. Will either pair be ok to tap into?
Hi Daniel, I have this problem also, did it matter which one you connect too? I assume both speakers have red and white so don't really want to pull door apart and roof speaker apart. Edit - door speaker is red and white. Can't get roof speaker off
Just a heads up when you unplug then reinstall, my 10 and my mates 8 but had dramas with the connector. One of my signal wire connectors was deformed so when I plugged it in, the male pin on the sub pushed the female pin in the plug out and was a pain in the ass to fix.
Hey there which underseat subwoofer do you recommend? I was thinking to get yhe jbl basspro nano but there are so many different subs like kenwood and pioneer.
There's a few reviews on the channel, the pioneer and Kenwood are 8" and are more of a fill, even one of these 10" adds a good amount of bass. If you like your sound I'd recommend one of these over an 8" version for sure
Is there a way to add only one bass control for both underseat subs I have the jbl sl2 bass pro and was thinking of adding a second one but don’t want 2 controllers
did you use Left F/R speaker wire for left sub and Right F/R speaker wire for right sub? Is that how I understand it? what if just doing 1 sub; would I need both front (or rear) L/R speaker wire? or can I use Right F/R if the sub sits under the right seat?
Just got one as a gift. Do you have to connect from each rear speaker ie left and right or can you just connect from one set the passenger side rear speaker. Looking forward to getting mine done and installed. Thanks
Hey mate, awesome vid but I just want to confirm that with my 2022 dmax sx spacecab, i dont have rear speakers but I do have the red and white on my passenger side whereas my driver side there’s no red and white twisted but red and green, are they my driver side ones I connect too?
First time watching your videos... I turned away from video when it started and literally thought I was about to hear, .."And thi is Slapped Ham..." 😅😅 great video though!! Very informative!!
Gday mate, just seen that you have also used the pioneer slimline sub as well, now that u have used the kicker which one would you say is better? Obviously the kickers are more expensive but doesn’t always mean better
I had something similar within the first 12mths in my D-MAX, turns out the actual seat base bushes that had perished, raised with the dealer and was replaced under warranty. No issues since.
My kicker hideaway sub stopped working although the blue light stays on yet no sound? Installed at a shop on stock head unit with a loc any reason what it might be?
Yes, absolutely fine. Each sub only has a 15A fuse. You don't even need to connect to the battery. You can connect that to the fuse box input or even the cigarette lighter wire (since they are usually 30A). Just don't go full bass volume and push the cigarette lighter at the same time. The fuse might blow. Most of the time with music both of these subs will probably only pull 10 or 20 amps when cranked up. The stock electrical should easily handle that.
Hey Adam. Love the videos. It's been a while since you uploaded this and in wondering if you think it would be better to run 1 sub and have a amplified speaker set up or 2 subs and the speaker set up. Cheers mate
@VideoShowMeHow I've already bought 2 😂 I love it. I was just wondering if you had done anything with the speakers as well yet. They sound alot better with an amplifier but I'm sure you are running out of room in the cab haha
@@VideoShowMeHow awesome! Thanks for the info. And great video! Got one of these on the way and was wondering where to splice the blue, but would rather just bypass it 🙌🏽
@@kahuplurthIf you have to use the blue, you can tap into the fuse box with a circuit that turns on and off with the accessory key position. They make fuse taps and you can fuse the blue wire with a 1 or 2 amp fuse. So no worries. Lots of videos online show how to find a turn on signal.
@@VideoShowMeHow perfect I am getting a new Ford Bronco and bastards didn’t give me my sub and made a delete bc of some delay. So I am trying to put this in the spot where the sub would of been. I hear from other Ford Bronco guys that their sub wiring was there still. So that will be nice and easy to install. Just hope it’s with all the models. Thanks for the video
It's really odd that those subs don't have RCA inputs. I have the ILX 705D which is the double DIN version of yours, and as you know the crossover settings are extensive on this unit and it also has 2 sub outs. Taping off the door speakers seriously limits you to having to run them full range instead of being able to roll off the bottom end around 80Hz. I'd definitely cross off Kicker if I was on the market for a compact powered sub.
You don't need to run anything into the engine bay,you can just fuse tap these subs. There is also a factory earth point under each seat. If you lift the carpet up, you will see it,also, besides looking messy and being unnecessary, you should be careful running earths of the battery terminal in a vehicle with smart alternators
The box says this compact sub is only 180 RMS while that might be adequate, I think the Alpine compact sub is at least 100 RMS higher so not sure why you'd go with the lower RMS than spending the same amount of money and going with weaker RMS sub????
Awesome work mate 🤙 have just installed one but abit confused on the settings side of things ( gain/ bass boost etc. Am running just the factory head unit in 2022 dmax xterrain, what settings would you reccomend?
@@SonicsnakeCNRThe phase and crossover settings should be done by ear. Adjust it until it sounds good to you. The gain setting depends on how high the signal voltage is. I would adjust is so normal music listening levels are about half or a bit less than half of the remote bass knob level. That way you can turn it up or down based on the song playing. The bass boost typically adds output around 45Hz like a single band equalizer, but sometimes this adds distortion at high volume levels. Try to keep it at zero. If you don't max out the subwoofer you can try adding a little bass boost to see how it sounds. If you hear distortion at high volume levels turn the bass boost down.
This sub can not handle an epicenter. It is a sealed woofer and 150 watts. It probably plays pretty low, but is obviously limited in low bass output. If you listen to music that has very high bass and want to use an epicenter to get more 45Hz bump then it would work. You just need to be careful to not over drive the sub. Make sure to feed the epicenter a full range signal.
@@VideoShowMeHow Thank you for the response, I re-watched and I still don't really see how you connected both speakers. I see that you have 2 wires from the right (pos & neg) and 2 wires spliced from the left (po & neg) but I don't see how you have them both going to both speakers
@VideoShowMeHow awesome vid!! I was trying to figure that out aswell please. Ive spliced both sides as per the vid but when connecting to each sub (situated behind the backseat) Ive connected the right rear speaker cables to the coinciding sub and did the same on the left side. Effectively the inputs for each sub only have one set of -/+. Is this correct?
@@eznyt I found the answer, you can just tap into the signal wire at the main (your first sub) connector anywhere to receive your input signal. You don't have to run straight from the source again. Power wires should be a new/separate power wire from the battery, ground can be the same ground location.
Any chance you can explain this to someone who knows nothing? I purchased two, and want to connect them, I also have RCA cables but the back of my head unit only has one set of Red/White inputs for a sub, so I am a little lost at how I will get both connected. Any help here would be appreciated. I'd love to be able to just use one dial as well, but maybe thats not possible either.@@injection6930
Kicker hideaway are great while they work, driver has a design flaw that breaks of wire for speaker and speaker stops working and gotta send to kicker for $80 to repair
Does the controller have to be connected as I really don’t want extra knobs. I’d rather always have them at 100% and control the levels through my headunit…
Mine wouldnt work at alll, i had to use my blue wire for it to power up, haha even went to the shop and swapped my sub because I thought it was the sub lol
If I have an amp and sub already installed but I want to downsize to save trunk space to this- could I keep my current power ground and signal? It’s an 8g wiring kit so still pretty small, if i could just plug and play it’d be pretty sick!
FYI Turns out 1x set red and white is for rear speaker in door but other set is not for roof speaker. Not sure what other set of red and white is for, cut it first then repaired it.
most ppl want bigger boom...so they go with 10s/12s is bigger boxes with way more power than they think they need...these are just good bottom end fillers, not neighborhood shakers
The signal wire do you mean? It's fresh strands and solder, is fine for this kind of thing. Never going to be the cleanest via speaker anyway but fine for this setup :)
I don't know if your just trying to insult kicker or if your saying tiny under seat subs all sound the same. I'm going to assume the latter. It takes space to make bass. 👍
Try listening with a decent set of headphones, sound will be limited to what you're playing it (eg your phone isn't going be able to reproduce anything bass)
Sound pretty dang good to me mate 👌 Sure never going to be in the same league of a full enclosed woofer with big amp etc but for what they're are they're great
CHECK-OUT THE FULL ISUZU D-MAX BUILD HERE -> ruclips.net/p/PLloptHW8MGGhzVQRkJaMUeCIUh5ZEplfB
Just done similiar in my 2022 MU-X and installed a JBL SL2, only difference is I took the speaker feed from the front two dashboard speakers, easy to take out and I soldered my subbox high level cables directly and fed them down into the footwells. I didn't want to fuse tap my rears and there are way too many cables in the MU-X to unravel in the first place. I also grounded to the seat but there is no bolt in the MU-X seats so I fitted a new bolt in one of the spare holes.
The SL2 has audio sense so no need for a rem cable, only thing I find with the SL2 is that it doesn't shutdown for 10 minutes when no audio detected.
Sounds amazing and a huge upgrade from the stock stereo setup!
Thanks for your tips Adam, always helpful.
After i installed my subwoofer i found the
sound quality better when i went into the
headunits equaliser (EQ) ...from factory
when purchased the headunits are always set
on Flat and without Loudness switched on.
great video love that you installed 2 i have been looking at these for my truck to install behind my seat in the rear
I got an 8" installed then realized I needed more so I sold it and now have the 10". Made a world of difference. I never crank mine to max setting. No need for it.. lol
I just bout one for my F-150….hoping it’s what I need.
@@bobbysealejunior6590
How does it sound so far?
Good Video, would be nice if there was a way to combine the controls so you only have one adjustment dial.
Yeah someone mentioned a good idea, They're just a 3.5mm stereo jack so you could probably get a splitter two into one
Yes, that Kicker remote uses a 20K linear taper potentiometer to vary the resistance. A simple head phone splitter cable will allow one knob to control both subs.
Just make sure the gains, all control's, are set the same on both subs or else one sub will always be louder than the other. 👍
Great video!!! You answered a lot of questions I had. I have a 2008 Single cab Ford Ranger that I think I'll use these for.
Good video man, But I think the bigger questions are around the beautiful example of the Nissan S15 in the background...
Cheers 👍 Oh yeah, have some content planned for it soon
I have two hs 8 in my carry and am very happy with the results, I did not use the supplied gain control, it did something to the bass signal and took bass away, I have been hitting them for three years now
Does the volume of the subs go up and down when you change the volume on the head unit if you disconnect the remote controller?
@MarkKFerguson yes, also I wired them to my rear channel, so if I want more bass I can go towards the rear channel, or for less bass I can go towards the front channel, not to mention you can still add or take out bass with your headunit
Thanks great video I was going to get an 8” but have now decided to go with a 10”.
Great video mate....and nice install. (and the other one with the underseat sub into a Jeep was good too).
I'm currently shopping for an underseat sub for my d/c Navara. Not looking for huge SPL (it actually ruins good music IMO). I just want to put some foundation under my Kenwood + Infinity component set up in the front.
I have a couple of questions....
- How did you mount the remote gain controllers to the dash?
- Given that you already had an aftermarket head unit installed, why did you choose high/speaker-level inputs instead of plug 'n' play "sub out" port or RCA's at pre-out level ?
- Pioneer, Alpine, Cerwin Vega, Kicker, Kenwood, RockFos, Sony, JBL, Focal.....etc all make active underseat subs with 8" or 10" drivers.
Was there anything special or different that made you choose the Kicker units? Was it just because they were on-sale? Do you think they perform better than some others, for similiar money? I'm having trouble narrowing down my short-list!
The S15 in the back is so clean.
Cheers, there's a recent vid of it on the dyno on the channel if interested
Good video really appreciate, fornme where or how should i connect the blue wire in the harness where do that ine goes i have s Toyota RAV4 '22 not sure where it goes ? Thank you,
If the DC offset (auto on) is not working for you, you can run the blue remote wire to your fuse box. There are lots of videos online that show how to find a fuse that turns on and off with the key and there are fuse taps that allow you to add a second fuse. Just use a 1 or 2 amp fuse for that blue wire.
@@JasonWW2000 thank you so much
I just ordered one of those alpine pwe-s8. Was looking at these but got the alpine on sale for $210 havent gotten it yet but im hopeful
What site did you get that from?
@@stuartschultz8823 it was on Amazon
Thank you for this video and the sound test! Sound wise, would you prefer an under the seat subwoofer or a spare tire subwoofer, like the Jbl basspro hub?
Hmm, those spare tyre ones are pretty innovative, either way I'd def be shooting for a 10" driver at a minimum
@@VideoShowMeHow indeed, the JBL has an 11" driver, but the fact that they are in the spare tire, would it affect their performance, against this one which is right under the seat?
It really depends on the vehicle. If its a car the bass might have trouble going from the trunk to the interior so the under seat box might be best. If its a hatchback or suv the spare tire enclosure might be best. Make sure both can fit, if one style doesn't, then your choice is made for you.
Nice explanatory video, thanks.
A question: would leaving the rear speakers connected and connecting the sub in parallel to each of them work properly / be acceptable? Or is cutting-out the rear speakers the only valid / good option?
The rear speakers do stay connected with this method?
@@VideoShowMeHow in the video the cables that bring signal to the rear speakers are cut (white and red) if I've seen right.
I was asking myself if instead mounting the sub in parallel (a T joint for each cable instead of cutting) would work properly.
@@VideoShowMeHow Ok, I re-watched and seen that you are indeed making a tap at 5:29. Thanks!
Nice vid bud. I've just got the one in Mine and it provides LOTS. Enjoy the bass.
Cheers mate 👍
Nice finally someone with some input in this thread instead of telling this guy all the physics on the installation. Do you still have them and like it? I was going to put one in my 2023 4 Runner with stock unit and speakers. Thanks for your input
@@john-l1d5h did you install? How’d it go?
@brunoortiz1049 No didn't get enough feedback and some other bills came up still researching
I only want to do it once so I want somthing with some quality.
Nice Video as usual. Although Hookin up a powered sub into the rear speaker cables that are amplified from the headunit is not a good idea like this. It's actually tapping into and taking away power that should be going to the rear speakers. Should 100% be coming out of RCA's or sub output out the back of the unit that runs at line level to feed the subs that are powered.
Hey mate, it's not drawing any power from speakers, just uses for signal, power comes from +ve battery (red wire). These subs don't have an RCA in unfortunately. This is how kicker recommends installing these.
@@VideoShowMeHow I realise what it's doing regarding only signal and that hte sub has seperate power. Even if Kicker say to do it, it's still wrong really. Reason being is that the headunit is sending a amplified signal to the rear speakers which are passive. Then you are tapping into that and taking signal off to another device which is taking power away for that to send signal to the sub. Yes it can work but it's really not a good way or the correct way it should be done. Turning the head unit up could easily send substantial amount of watts/power to the sub input and overloading it and then performance of the rear speakers is also affected due to sharing signal. I really can't beleive Kicker would recommend doing this, it's bizzare and goes against all audio and signaling best practices.
@@hiltonstroud1399 literally in the manual bud. The amount of power 'being taken away' would be tiny. I agree I'd prefer to use an proper RCA signal end to end etc but for something like this it's hardly SPL or audiophile anyway 👍
in my mind im thinking the same. if you had the halo HU the radio has much more controls/ crossovers etc if you connected them via RCA
ps these under seat subs work a lot better when they are solidly mounted to the vehicle.
I installed a sub amp combo unit in the rear seats standing up up as my child is in car seat and feet don't touch the floor. even when they do its a very slim unit Rockford p300 8 inch unit so much more output compared to an underseat unit
@@hiltonstroud1399 how else are you supposed to get signal. tapping into the headunit is still the same wire going to the speaker
Quick question. Did you link the 2 subs together as far as wiring goes to go to the battery or where they wired separately with two inline fuses? Did you wire them as far as the output goes such left and right speakers tying them into the factory rear left and right speakers?
It's in the video?
If you want to use two of these, a single 8ga wire an 30A fuse is more than enough. You can go to the battery or even the fuse box input since they draw so little power.
Hi Adam, do you mind which video do you show how to get the cable through firewall to engine bay?
There's a few, most of the light vids. Suggest the supernova infinite 8.5 vid
what is the amperage draw on a setup like that? I'm looking at putting a set under the couch in my RV but I'm not good with power
These units use a 15A fuse so full volume it might draw 15A. At normal listening levels you might measure 2 to 5 amps depending on the bass in the song and what frequency it's at.
The most efficient setup would be a large driver or multiple drivers on a small amp. Especially using a ported box. You basically choose between power efficiency or space. Small sealed enclosures like this are not very power efficient, but they take up small space. So you have to choose which is more important to you.
Very nice sound man!
Thanks for the video. We likely do the same. Do you think the head unit and sub upgrade is sufficient for a non audiophile or are you going to upgrade the factory speakers?
Yeah they go really well, probably too much haha. I am going to do speakers as well but you could always start with a sub and see how you go 👍 1x of those kicker 10s (link in description) will be enough for most people I reckon 😀
Typically the factory speakers are the last thing you'd want to upgrade. Start with adding bass as thats what most factory systems lack the most.
Brilliant. Im a music type guy with bass. How much in total to spend including the double din? Please give me figure. Thanks and more power. Da bessssstttt.
In the 3k range, of course milage may vary worth a quick google
Hi. Love the video, but on my 2023 Dmax Xterrain there are two twisted pairs on the passenger side. Im guessing one is for roof speakers and one for back speaker. Will either pair be ok to tap into?
Worth just pulling the trim on the rear door speaker and checking the colour going to the speaker to confirm 👍
Hi Daniel, I have this problem also, did it matter which one you connect too? I assume both speakers have red and white so don't really want to pull door apart and roof speaker apart. Edit - door speaker is red and white. Can't get roof speaker off
Just a heads up when you unplug then reinstall, my 10 and my mates 8 but had dramas with the connector. One of my signal wire connectors was deformed so when I plugged it in, the male pin on the sub pushed the female pin in the plug out and was a pain in the ass to fix.
Had it in/out a bunch for the vid, so far so good. Will keep an eye out, thanks for the tip 👍
Hey there which underseat subwoofer do you recommend? I was thinking to get yhe jbl basspro nano but there are so many different subs like kenwood and pioneer.
There's a few reviews on the channel, the pioneer and Kenwood are 8" and are more of a fill, even one of these 10" adds a good amount of bass. If you like your sound I'd recommend one of these over an 8" version for sure
@@VideoShowMeHow thank you for the reply, and which one u liked the most? Im even debating on a underseat or the rockford p300
Is there a way to add only one bass control for both underseat subs I have the jbl sl2 bass pro and was thinking of adding a second one but don’t want 2 controllers
Yep can just use a 3.5mm splitter
did you use Left F/R speaker wire for left sub and Right F/R speaker wire for right sub? Is that how I understand it? what if just doing 1 sub; would I need both front (or rear) L/R speaker wire? or can I use Right F/R if the sub sits under the right seat?
Yes!
Only one!
Just got one as a gift. Do you have to connect from each rear speaker ie left and right or can you just connect from one set the passenger side rear speaker. Looking forward to getting mine done and installed. Thanks
Ideally both
Hey mate, awesome vid but I just want to confirm that with my 2022 dmax sx spacecab, i dont have rear speakers but I do have the red and white on my passenger side whereas my driver side there’s no red and white twisted but red and green, are they my driver side ones I connect too?
Hmm unsure on space cab.. suggest pulling the door card at the bottom and having a peak up at the speaker with a light so you can verify the colours 👍
Hi, thanks for the video, I have a pickup and the only place to put this bass is under the seat, I try with one bass it's OK?
Yep one is fine
First time watching your videos... I turned away from video when it started and literally thought I was about to hear, .."And thi is Slapped Ham..." 😅😅 great video though!! Very informative!!
Gday mate, just seen that you have also used the pioneer slimline sub as well, now that u have used the kicker which one would you say is better? Obviously the kickers are more expensive but doesn’t always mean better
Hey mate, the kicker hands down. 10" vs 8" and both high quality
@@VideoShowMeHow awesome thanks for the quick reply currently looking for one for my Colorado..
Do you need the right and left signal to auto turn it on or would one work?
@@sjhanksaz their instructions say to use both, but think would prob work with one ok.. would only be an issue if you faded left to right
Hey mate, great vid. Question, where did you get those d'max door scuff plates? cheers
eBay
Hi i have a slight squeek in my driver seat any idea on how to get rid of it?.
I had something similar within the first 12mths in my D-MAX, turns out the actual seat base bushes that had perished, raised with the dealer and was replaced under warranty. No issues since.
Nice Vid mate 🤙 just got one of those subs, what size conduit did you use?
Hmm don't remember sorry, was just the small size I'd grabbed from the auto shop!
Hey bloke, which floor mats are those? I'm having trouble finding some for my d-max
These are the max liner mats
My kicker hideaway sub stopped working although the blue light stays on yet no sound? Installed at a shop on stock head unit with a loc any reason what it might be?
Hmm worth checking the signal wiring? Maybe has been disconnected
This Kicker unit has a built in loc.
Yes, I'd make sure its still getting a signal.
Hey Adam, Is it ok to hook up the power cables to that part of the positive terminal?
Yes, absolutely fine. Each sub only has a 15A fuse. You don't even need to connect to the battery. You can connect that to the fuse box input or even the cigarette lighter wire (since they are usually 30A). Just don't go full bass volume and push the cigarette lighter at the same time. The fuse might blow. Most of the time with music both of these subs will probably only pull 10 or 20 amps when cranked up. The stock electrical should easily handle that.
Thanks for sharing 👍😎
Hello friends, where can we tap the remote control connection (Blue wire) for the sub ?
@@garysteevens6579 same, wondering where to tap it so I don’t have to pull out the radio
Hey Adam. Love the videos. It's been a while since you uploaded this and in wondering if you think it would be better to run 1 sub and have a amplified speaker set up or 2 subs and the speaker set up. Cheers mate
1x is pretty beasty on its own.. could always add a second down the track 👍
@VideoShowMeHow I've already bought 2 😂 I love it. I was just wondering if you had done anything with the speakers as well yet. They sound alot better with an amplifier but I'm sure you are running out of room in the cab haha
Lmao
Where's the promised sound test video??? also a vid on the door speakers would be sweet too
So, what did you do with the blue wire? Is that wire unnecessary if the speaker is set to DC instead of +12?
Yep is redundant if you use the DC offset feature, can just snip and heat shrink
@@VideoShowMeHow awesome! Thanks for the info. And great video! Got one of these on the way and was wondering where to splice the blue, but would rather just bypass it 🙌🏽
@@kahuplurthIf you have to use the blue, you can tap into the fuse box with a circuit that turns on and off with the accessory key position. They make fuse taps and you can fuse the blue wire with a 1 or 2 amp fuse. So no worries. Lots of videos online show how to find a turn on signal.
If you’re only installing one sub do you need signal from 2 stock speakers or just 1
Manual reckons a L and a R channel
is there a place where I can buy all of the wiring separately?
Maybe via Alpine?
Would you recommend them for a Mazda Mx5 ND??
For simple compact doof they're hard to beat
Can you wire them directly into the Head unit?
The factory head unit on a dmax doesn't hae the outputs required unfortunately
So curious no amp is needed and did you get any metal rattle noise that you had to handle after a while of usage?
Amp is built into the units themselves. Not rattles so far?
@@VideoShowMeHow perfect I am getting a new Ford Bronco and bastards didn’t give me my sub and made a delete bc of some delay. So I am trying to put this in the spot where the sub would of been. I hear from other Ford Bronco guys that their sub wiring was there still. So that will be nice and easy to install. Just hope it’s with all the models. Thanks for the video
Nice! Wish we got the Broncos here!
Hey mate I just installed 2 of these in my car and I now have a overload caution I can’t get rid of, any ideas?
Overload caution?
Amp overload caution, so when I turn my car on my head unit will display “amp overload caution”. Apologies that wasn’t very clear
Hmm am unfamiliar.. maybe something to do with the pre amp lead on your headunit going to the sub? Which headunit?
If you install two of these like in the video ¿Can you join the two in just one Bass Controller? to control both Bass levels with just one controller.
Yeah prob could use a dual stereo splitter
@@VideoShowMeHow Thanks for the reply. =]
It's really odd that those subs don't have RCA inputs. I have the ILX 705D which is the double DIN version of yours, and as you know the crossover settings are extensive on this unit and it also has 2 sub outs. Taping off the door speakers seriously limits you to having to run them full range instead of being able to roll off the bottom end around 80Hz. I'd definitely cross off Kicker if I was on the market for a compact powered sub.
You don't need to run anything into the engine bay,you can just fuse tap these subs. There is also a factory earth point under each seat. If you lift the carpet up, you will see it,also, besides looking messy and being unnecessary, you should be careful running earths of the battery terminal in a vehicle with smart alternators
Fuse tape 10amps? Not a fan of that current via a piggyback. Installed per manufacturer instructions but up to you 👍
@@VideoShowMeHow fitted dozens,dash cam battery packs usually have a 20amp fuse that's instructed to be fuse tapped also
My question is, is it worth to get two or stick with one
One is pretty awesome, 2x if you're a bass head 😁
Try one and see if its enough for you. You can always add a second if you feel the need.
Not sure if anyone has answered, but that bunch of black wires @ mark 4:00 with the collected crimp cap appears to be a multi-ground tap.
The box says this compact sub is only 180 RMS while that might be adequate, I think the Alpine compact sub is at least 100 RMS higher so not sure why you'd go with the lower RMS than spending the same amount of money and going with weaker RMS sub????
They sound like they would make great oversized tweeters
Lol, maybe try watching/listening on something other than your phone eg decent speakers
@@VideoShowMeHow I never saw a bad product from kicker so I believe they are good speakers
Awesome work mate, the real question is where is the video for the speakers ! The factory ones are woeful 😅
Awesome work mate 🤙 have just installed one but abit confused on the settings side of things ( gain/ bass boost etc. Am running just the factory head unit in 2022 dmax xterrain, what settings would you reccomend?
Am currently half gain, bass boost off. But have 2x in there and they're drowning out my other speakers at the moment haha (upgrade time)
@VideoShowMeHow cheers mate cant wait for the vid🤙 what input level and phase levels are you running?
@@SonicsnakeCNRThe phase and crossover settings should be done by ear. Adjust it until it sounds good to you. The gain setting depends on how high the signal voltage is. I would adjust is so normal music listening levels are about half or a bit less than half of the remote bass knob level. That way you can turn it up or down based on the song playing.
The bass boost typically adds output around 45Hz like a single band equalizer, but sometimes this adds distortion at high volume levels. Try to keep it at zero. If you don't max out the subwoofer you can try adding a little bass boost to see how it sounds. If you hear distortion at high volume levels turn the bass boost down.
Wimbledon white, but the single stage tone not the dual stage. creamy white. I love it. dual stage is too yellow/almond color
Is one sub that much better than 2? Like, is it twice as loud? Or does it sound better?
Hmm I know what you mean, I'd prob say it feels like it's 75% louder? Tbh, can completely drown out the factory speakers 😂
Its possible to intall this sub with an epicenter???
This sub can not handle an epicenter. It is a sealed woofer and 150 watts. It probably plays pretty low, but is obviously limited in low bass output.
If you listen to music that has very high bass and want to use an epicenter to get more 45Hz bump then it would work. You just need to be careful to not over drive the sub.
Make sure to feed the epicenter a full range signal.
How did you connect the 2 subs together? Or are they ran totally separate wiring?
Separate power etc, shared signal, is in the video
@@VideoShowMeHow Thank you for the response, I re-watched and I still don't really see how you connected both speakers. I see that you have 2 wires from the right (pos & neg) and 2 wires spliced from the left (po & neg) but I don't see how you have them both going to both speakers
@VideoShowMeHow awesome vid!! I was trying to figure that out aswell please.
Ive spliced both sides as per the vid but when connecting to each sub (situated behind the backseat) Ive connected the right rear speaker cables to the coinciding sub and did the same on the left side. Effectively the inputs for each sub only have one set of -/+. Is this correct?
@@eznyt I found the answer, you can just tap into the signal wire at the main (your first sub) connector anywhere to receive your input signal. You don't have to run straight from the source again. Power wires should be a new/separate power wire from the battery, ground can be the same ground location.
Any chance you can explain this to someone who knows nothing? I purchased two, and want to connect them, I also have RCA cables but the back of my head unit only has one set of Red/White inputs for a sub, so I am a little lost at how I will get both connected. Any help here would be appreciated. I'd love to be able to just use one dial as well, but maybe thats not possible either.@@injection6930
Kicker hideaway are great while they work, driver has a design flaw that breaks of wire for speaker and speaker stops working and gotta send to kicker for $80 to repair
That's way too much power for me. I'm not going to be able to handle it, do they come in a 4in??
Does the controller have to be connected as I really don’t want extra knobs. I’d rather always have them at 100% and control the levels through my headunit…
No can control via the head unit also. I've since removed mine and just control via the alpine unit 👍
@@VideoShowMeHow Good to know, thanks.
Must be able to hear you coming from a mile away - nice work! Any Velcro alternative ideas for us common folk with vinyl floors? 😝
They certainly thump! Could use the brackets easily enough, only a few bucks at Bunnings. Alternatively there's always a few zipties 😂
Surely you can stick the other side of the Velcro to the vinyl? My dmax is on the way and it's got vinyl.
What if you also jam to hard rock like Metallica. Would these sound just as great when you don't hear Rap??
Mine wouldnt work at alll, i had to use my blue wire for it to power up, haha even went to the shop and swapped my sub because I thought it was the sub lol
It just depends if your radio outputs DC offset or not. Some do, but not all.
If I have an amp and sub already installed but I want to downsize to save trunk space to this- could I keep my current power ground and signal? It’s an 8g wiring kit so still pretty small, if i could just plug and play it’d be pretty sick!
Yep sure could, would just need to connect this loom off your existing etc
the left side panel had two white and red twisted wires I found out, cut the wrong one to begin lol
I have this problem two red and whites, how did you find the correct one? Or can you use either?
FYI Turns out 1x set red and white is for rear speaker in door but other set is not for roof speaker. Not sure what other set of red and white is for, cut it first then repaired it.
They must not be worth it if you can't find any videos with anybody that has them for a review.
Go to a shop and see if you can get a demo. Your ears are a better judge than people with no clues opinions
They’re not bad, I’ve got both the Hs10 and hs8 and the 10 definitely is more powerful. For the price you can’t beat the HS8 it’s awesome
most ppl want bigger boom...so they go with 10s/12s is bigger boxes with way more power than they think they need...these are just good bottom end fillers, not neighborhood shakers
My bose door speakers out perform these.😅
Your door speakers don't and can't play sub bass
There's no sound in the video
@@finnromy6304 just gotta take it off mute ;)
Why did snip in half? Wrong thing to in car audio just use wire strippers to split cable not copper wire the splice the amp wire to the wire
The signal wire do you mean? It's fresh strands and solder, is fine for this kind of thing. Never going to be the cleanest via speaker anyway but fine for this setup :)
Is it worth using a T Tap wire connector?
@@SonicsnakeCNRIf the T tap is secure and water proof it should be fine.
Can you really call a vehicle ground an Earth ground? Debate!
Sure 😁 It drives on the earth right?
Sounds like every Kicker I've ever heard. Not loud, not deep. Really flat.
I don't know if your just trying to insult kicker or if your saying tiny under seat subs all sound the same. I'm going to assume the latter. It takes space to make bass. 👍
Bad choice of songs , they seem bass less
Try listening with a decent set of headphones, sound will be limited to what you're playing it (eg your phone isn't going be able to reproduce anything bass)
Those subs are useless, they are not proper. They are a joke, don’t come close to my 8W7, that I have in my center console.
Sound pretty dang good to me mate 👌 Sure never going to be in the same league of a full enclosed woofer with big amp etc but for what they're are they're great