axle housing is bent, imo. the caliper mounting bracket is not in alignment with the rotor. once back together, apply the brakes with the caliper mounting bracket loose to see the misalignment. might fix it with shims.
Take the water pump pulley off and hit the "V" where the belt contacts and hit it with an aluminum oxide wheel. If you dont have the wheel, sand paper will work and reinstall. DO NOT PAINT!
Looks like a counterfeit axle seal on the left side to me. I see you are replacing the bearings on the right side. Those bolt together disc brake kits do cause problems with rotor/caliper alignment.Getting them right can be tricky. Your Ace Hardware has big flat washers that I would use. Get either grade 8 or stainless to distribute the clamping force. I would also use nylock nuts to ensure they don't back off. That rear has tremendous vibration on such a light car and I think your nuts loosened themselves. You didn't forget to give the nuts a couple "ugga duggas" You put a lot of milage on the car, not what Speedway envisioned for their kit, so you need to vibration proof it. Like I said before you probably have the highest milage T Bucket Kit from Speedway on the road today. You have a great plan of attack for the rest of the car. You probably need to change your alternator mount. The early Corvette alternator brackets allow for a tight alternator. If you can find an old V8 Monza fan they work real well on moving air. You have time to get it all right. Thanks for the update glad to see it is a work in progress.
You are right! I do not think they ever intended this kit to go any further than someones driveway and a local car show maybe......theres a lot of miles on this thing! I am hearing alot of bad things about these rotor conversion kits and I can see why now but I think...maybe....I have found the issue. What I can tell you is it may haave something to do with fake bearings from AMAZON and some bnad machining. Im lookinga t one of the twist link alternator mounts instead of the slide type but open to any suggestions.
I pull a main and rod cap on every unknown used engine before running it. Especially if I see it as a crackhead engine like you say here. Single piston calipers have to be able to slide easily on their mounting bolt shafts because of the non self centering action. Make sure the caliper can slide back and forth without hanging up and the shaft it slides on is lubricated and sealed from contamination like OEM caliper mounts. Solid mounted single piston calipers will not work.
Well it was a hard one, I ran a fiber scope through it and all looked good but what really got me was the price.....almost to good to pass up even as a block. Still investigating on the calipers but may have found the issue
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We’re brakes dragging got it hot
Old Engines develop leaks. Just like Old People do!
Don't scare me
axle housing is bent, imo.
the caliper mounting bracket is not in alignment with the rotor. once back together, apply the brakes with the caliper mounting bracket loose to see the misalignment. might fix it with shims.
Looking at some of the older videos from the install I think I may have it narrowed down. bad machining
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA i like the build. cool car.
man id be issed if i had all those leaks and the brakes was acting the fool
Gotta keep my composure......deep down I'm like MF WTF
Take the water pump pulley off and hit the "V" where the belt contacts and hit it with an aluminum oxide wheel. If you dont have the wheel, sand paper will work and reinstall. DO NOT PAINT!
You can bet imma try that!
Looks like a counterfeit axle seal on the left side to me. I see you are replacing the bearings on the right side. Those bolt together disc brake kits do cause problems with rotor/caliper alignment.Getting them right can be tricky. Your Ace Hardware has big flat washers that I would use. Get either grade 8 or stainless to distribute the clamping force. I would also use nylock nuts to ensure they don't back off. That rear has tremendous vibration on such a light car and I think your nuts loosened themselves. You didn't forget to give the nuts a couple "ugga duggas" You put a lot of milage on the car, not what Speedway envisioned for their kit, so you need to vibration proof it. Like I said before you probably have the highest milage T Bucket Kit from Speedway on the road today. You have a great plan of attack for the rest of the car. You probably need to change your alternator mount. The early Corvette alternator brackets allow for a tight alternator. If you can find an old V8 Monza fan they work real well on moving air. You have time to get it all right. Thanks for the update glad to see it is a work in progress.
You are right! I do not think they ever intended this kit to go any further than someones driveway and a local car show maybe......theres a lot of miles on this thing! I am hearing alot of bad things about these rotor conversion kits and I can see why now but I think...maybe....I have found the issue. What I can tell you is it may haave something to do with fake bearings from AMAZON and some bnad machining.
Im lookinga t one of the twist link alternator mounts instead of the slide type but open to any suggestions.
I pull a main and rod cap on every unknown used engine before running it. Especially if I see it as a crackhead engine like you say here.
Single piston calipers have to be able to slide easily on their mounting bolt shafts because of the non self centering action. Make sure the caliper can slide back and forth without hanging up and the shaft it slides on is lubricated and sealed from contamination like OEM caliper mounts. Solid mounted single piston calipers will not work.
Well it was a hard one, I ran a fiber scope through it and all looked good but what really got me was the price.....almost to good to pass up even as a block. Still investigating on the calipers but may have found the issue
Not toooo bad.
Easy stuff.... except the axle🤣