How to fix a Dyson v6 v8 battery fault red flashing led diagnose fault and repair not charging
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2024
- In this video we look at a Dyson v6 or v8 battery that shows the red flashing led and won't charge.
instead of just buying a new battery pack and swapping it out we see if we can repair the currant battery pack.
Taking apart a battery pack from a Dyson v6 or v8 dc59 and finding out why its flashing a red led and how to repair the battery pack.
get a new battery here be aware there are type a and b for most dyson models.
check out my other videos to see how to replace the battery and make sure you Order the correct one.
dyson v8 type A
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dyson v6 type A
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dyson v7 type a
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dc31 type A
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v8 battery with screw driver and replacement filter
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new charger
original dyson part
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cheaper alternative
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I don't get paid for my videos but do get paid on completed purchase from these links so if you want to help me out
please use these to purchase your items. thanks
I show you how to open the battery and I check all the batteries one by one to make sure none are faulty and need replacing. then I test everything else to discover the battery management board is faulty and I ordered another from Ali Express.
#dyson
#dysonvacuum
0:00 Introduction
0:01 Dyson battery red led flashing Strip down and diagnose for repair
0:07 This battery pack is flashing the red led 32 times. lets see if we can fix it.
0:13 torx screw needs removing
0:30 6 clips in total holding this together.
1:05 Just take your time with this step.
2:38 Remove this torx screw.
3:34 now you can see the 6 lithium iron batteries, theres are 18650 size and easy to get hold of.
4:17 The swatch is just pushed on plastic pegs
5:32 so now we look at the PCB charging board.
5:58 I cant see any obvious faults
6:30 Lets test it with the charger fitted now.
6:49 no red or blue lights with the charger fitted, looks to be a PCB fault.
7:43 Testing the outputs when charging there is voltage, when the led flashes.
7:57 there should be about 20volts on the outputs
10:50 Another charger to test one I know works.
12:08 Just trying it again but no luck.
12:42 These two match up.
12:48 And theses two
13:00 there is a fault with this board.
13:17 I try heating up the board hoping that the solder will reflow if theres a bad joint
13:54 but theres a varnish to waterproof the board and this burns.
![Megan Thee Stallion - Mamushi (feat. Yuki Chiba) [2024 London Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pxTCJUuorKc/mqdefault.jpg)
Brutal job. You diagnosed nothing, and fixed nothing.
Brutal? It was 14 minutes. I hate to think what you'd call a day long job. ;)
You need to set your DMM to 200V (its on 20V) in order to test the charging cable. The unloaded voltage from the charger is in excess of 20V, which is your meter's current setting, so the voltage goes out of range. That's why when you try to check the charger cord voltage it shows (briefly) 19.xx V, then shows the digit '1.' Cheap multimeters are annoying. Also, the varnish that cooked up on the PCB is likely conformal coating, often used to make PCBs slightly moisture proof. Thank you for the video, demonstrated that Dyson electronics are basically junk and convinced me that I should simply get a new complete battery and use my old 18650 cells for something else.
well said he needs to learn how to use multimeter first ( its an inteligent charger so it pulsing hahahaha)
he should buy autorange dmm if not used to it . the new pcb (v8) coated with silicone
I did the exact same thing when testing the charger first of all, then squinted at the writing on it and it says 26V out...surprised me, thought it's be less than my 18V Ryobi tools with bigger battery packs that I assume are also full or 18650s. Should have just got the Fluke out.
@@swcooper Why would it be less when it is 6 cells in series instead of 5 in series like on any 18V aka 20V cordless tool battery? When in doubt, check the charger itself, often it has the DC output rating right on the label... so yeah, long way around doing that.
No need to break out expensive equipment for mere (n).(n)V readings. Just set it on the 200V/etc range to start with, since you don't really need to know the 0.(n) tenth of a volt value anyway, just whether it's in the ballpark hooked up to mains, and under load when it should be charging.
Fair play - unlike some videos that gloss over the difficult bits at least this one showed that this was not a simple operation for the average DIYer - at least persuaded me not to try! Thank you
Meh, not a big deal to try. As often as not, it's a bad cell instead, though this BMS is smart and won't return power by swapping out a cell once it has entered the tripped state, has to see the right voltage continuously and if the red light flashes, it may have already disabled itself.
Hi thanks for sharing
Where is the next fix bord reparing?
You only dissamble the battery, no diagnosis, no repair, I am disappointed.
Thank you for showing how to remove the battery. You helped me a lot.
Glad it helped
Thanks a lot
Explaining what you are doing would help
The bms board bricks itself in a fault condition or on loss of power, and it cannot be reset, the problem is a lot of other people posting videos on youtube about changing the cells fail or don't want to mention this.
On my Dyson V6, the battery flashes red !! but sometimes it kicks off and the led is blue, if I release the trigger, then press it again, it still works well! if I leave it inactive for too long (+/- 30 sec) it flashes red again! and trying a few times it reboots correctly, every time like this i have a hard time knowing if the problem is with the battery (maybe BMS) or if it's the motor.
In your opinion?
if the battery is old I would start by cleaning up the dyson and see if it runs any better without the brush head. if it dose I would say the bms dosnt like one of the battery cells in battery and replace the battery pack
have a dison dc62 product. It works constantly without pressing the trigger. The transistor on the card above the battery exploded. It is not fully readable 4200ad ???. Anyone have any information?
Where to buy electronics for battery repair?
HAHAHA! Je vous applaudis chaleureusement. 👏👏👏 Omedeto gozaimasu, Anata wa ichiban desu ! 👍👍👍😂
You should swtich to the range 200v to check the voltage
My DC45 does not charge when the Dyson with battery is in the wall holder. But when I take the battery out and connect it directly to the charger plug, the battery is charging! After some time, when the battery is fully charged, I put it back in the Dyson, and I can use the Dyson for the normal use time. The battery is brandnew from Amazon. What can I do to solve this problem?
What is the power supply's output voltage?
26.1 volts at 780mA
Is the outer plastic glued? Thermally attached or just snapped together? Speaking would be helpful
The outer case is just snapped together at 8 different points (6 lower, 2 upper which are reversed) and one additional screw. This is yet another video of a butcher job taking one apart... Insert 2mm spacers at the 8 points and the case will come apart easily and more importantly go back together without looking like it went through a blender.
Quite easy to take apart, u can see some marks due to injection mold that indicate a snap clip at the bottom near both sides, and one at both sides and top. Slide a thin metal tool to create space and jam some paper to maintain the lift for each snap clip and u can pull apart quite easily.
@@note2tee youd think so but it was not. I was using every tool in my collection. To nake it even easier i made a tool to depress the white tabs and hold them down without me having to hold onto the tool. I ended up using brute force. I was pissed enough that i didnt care if it broke. I did determine why mine was so hard to do. Im syre it had never been removed before. The white ring with the tabs on each end was extremely hard. Didnt feel like a part designed to be easily flexed. It took a bunch of moving one side then the other to get some flexibility on either side. I foubd this unit under a house burried in the mud and dirt. When i snapped the motor housing loose which took a heck of a lot of muscle i found debris between the main body and the top arched part of the white retaining ring with the tabs at each end. When id depress the tabs the arched part was pushing upward and outward against the motor case and into the groove keeping the case from coming off. After i found that was the issue i redesigned my tool so that it will pinch the tabs inward and pull the ring toward the bottom side of the vac which is up in this position. Pulling it toward the trigger guard and out of the groove in the cover. I also wiped all moving parts with plumbers grease to prevent the plastic from becomming brittle. If anyone runs inyo the same problem try using two 45 degree picks to cradle the white tabs pinch inward at the same time when you feel a click pull upward while trying to snap the cover off. It works far better after i worked with it. Thanks for the intel. If anyone knows where i can buy the 5 torx screws for the uppermost part of the cyclone and the 4 short torx screw for the cyclone please let me know. It was near impossible to find on the dyson web site and when i emailed asking for them in detail i got a message back asking me to describe in detail the issue i was having. I had all ready done that in the first email. There was no grey area. I said what screws, where the are located on the unit and exactly how many were required.
@@derekv2101 Yeah you have a point, BUT you're stating that in retrospect having either taken one apart, or saw someone else do it in a video, or possibly you are just writing out of your arse with guesses at the amount of force to pry it apart. Whichever the case may be, getting the case apart and back together without marks, is hardly important. What is important is sourcing a replacement BMS if it has already bricked itself from a fault or a cell below the voltage threshold.
Who cares if it looked like it went through a blender? It's not a hood ornament, if someone is looking at your battery pack while you are vacuuming, you're not being a good host for another reason.
@@note2tee I've taken apart countless things and on the spectrum of easy to hard, and having taken one apart myself, this is not in the category of quite easily. It is rather, about medium difficulty for a snap together housing due to the short sides which will deform a bit when you pry enough to put a shim in them, as well the top tab area. The metal tool will also mar the square edges on the plastic seams because it's quite soft plastic.
Most things take less effort to pop apart, if only held together with casing tabs.
When testing the charger your meter was set to 20V (max) and the charger is almost 22v so it was showing over voltage, switch to the next scale (200v) to get a proper reading.
I realised this after I just filmed it for the fun and pulling it apart to see how it works and what failed. never expected it to be such a popular video.
@@FINDITFIXITRESTOREITBUILDIT zž0
You ever upload the nxt video?? Can’t find it on your page..
I replaced the battery pack in the end.
Lol thanks for the reply, did the same thing.
I have a bit of a head scratcher - Dyson DC59 replacement battery in November - then 2 days ago it would not turn off - ran till battery died - removed battery and charged out of the Dyson - inserted it and again runs as soon as battery is plugged in without the trigger being pushed - depressing the plunger ( same as using trigger does nothing while running ) with the battery out the blue lights light up when plunger is pushed !!!
I am thinking pub issue on battery pack ?
Any suggestions .. anybody !
Sometimes the push button gets struck and that will cause the vaccum to run continuously.
I would give a go balancing each cell to see if it could work.
Why the silence, its annoying!
What does it mean when your battery flases 30 times? Not 32 but 30 times
mine is flashing 30 times, can't see anyone mentioning this - assume it's the BMS deciding that the batteries must be bad.
It means it's not 31.
My Dyson runs a few seconds and turns off , flash yellow!! What does that mean?
Bad battery?
most likely if it's a few years old and we'll used, I would say its time to replace the battery.
Can you just imagine what it takes and how frustrating for a housewife
Meh, any housewife or househusband using a dyson, is probably rich considering how much they cost compared to a standard vac, and will just shell out the money for a replacement battery, or these days, buy a cordless tool battery adapter.
Like you could say youre replacing the old cells with new ones or there is a malfunction in the unit and you are going to show how to repair that.
Messgerät über 20 Volt DC einstellen. Netzteil Ausgang ist über 20 Volt DC
No sound. Not helpful.
If you like pulling things apart mate buts only 16 pound for a new battery
Not the 26.1 volt battery. That's the 20volt one.
Aren't those the generics with crappy cells that will fail again soon enough? Then again, you could just replace the cells next time since it will have a more forgiving generic chinese BMS board that doesn't lock out.
In my experience there is no fault with the board. It has detected some kind of issue with the cells and has deliberately insolated the power from the cells. You can charge the cells to 4.0v each with a stand alone charger and you can even measure a good voltage coming off the center posts but there are no amps so no power. Once the board decides to cut the power you cannot it seems 'reset' it. Although it is only a control board and not magic I still haven't found anybody/info on how it does this or how to reset it. If you did get a new pcb I would think it will see the same tiny issue with the cells and cut the power in the same way?
same here - stripped batteries out, proved all good, re-assemble and still 30 red flashes. replaced with another set of cells, same issue. I assume the BMS records the number of charge/discharge cycles and decides when to kill the battery. will keep searching - someone must have reverse engineered the BMS...
Some russian electronics repairman created custom firmware but there is no chance to download /watch?v=en0lbhxLfbU
@@docpaul I assume the same: BMS not only monitoring the health of 6 cells but also recorded circles numbers and then kill the battery pack when reaches the design number. I check my 6 cells, 5 are 3.58 and 1 is 3.52 and I check it by x10 magnifier didn’t see obvious fault on the BMS board
Nope, when there is an issue with the cells, at least one is at a dissimilar voltage level and he checked the voltage.
Once it flashes red, it has locked out the circuit and charging the cells individually does not unlock it.
If you get a new PCB, and it wasn't the cells, then it won't have the issue but more importantly if you find an aftermarket that doesn't have *permanent* lockup and later discover that when you attempt to charge it, one or more cells isn't evenly rising in voltage with the rest, then you can simply swap the bad cells since the aftermarket BMS board won't care that power was cut previously.
these are 18650 cells ?
yep that's them
Yep, a total of 6 (connected in series). 😊
gość popełnił wszystkie możliwe grzechy :)
nie wiem jak kto ale nie obejrzałem do końca w całości po krótkich urywkach, nie wiem co chciał pokazać ale to chyba parodia ,mam przed sobą wymianę ogniw ,mam pytanie o ile jesteś w stanie podpowiedzieć czy bms w tej baterii potrafi się zablokować po odłączeniu napięcia czy to tylko opinia ludzi którzy nie do końca wiedzą co piszą, u mnie jest mała pojemność na ogniwach ale jeszcze działa i nie chciałbym bym zablokować elektroniki choć może to zrobić licznik cykli ładowania ale to już zupełnie inna sprawa ,pozdrawiam
I’m going to try wiring 20 volt dewalt battery to it.
I'm going to do a makita 18v conversion to mine as the battery has died again. watch out for the video on that.
The red light means a low voltage triggered the lock down of the board, no one found a way to unlock it. The board works well just got locked by the pic16 controller.
Normally happen with a weak battery and uneven cell voltage
I'm guessing the pic eeprom store that a low voltage happened and lock down, even if u pull reset pin low on the pic16, it will still be locked....
Probably from factory, after first code run on the pic, 1bit on eeprom to indicate initialise code ran and after a power out or a balance fault occur, no matter what you do the pic just flash red and that's how Dyson earn your money.... You won't be able to change the battery cell out once it flash red.
From what I found, you need to have another battery attached to each balance tab and then remove the old battery and spot weld a new one, not breaking battery power
That is correct, in other words the bms board bricks itself in a fault condition or on loss of power, the problem is a lot of other people posting videos on youtube about changing the cells fail or don't want to mention this.
6:17 you Must Pusch the Button (and hold) If you Connect the charger 🤦
Just wasted time to watch it till the end 😂
sir thank you so much for the teardown , thanks to you I was able to do mine, apart from that İ got a problem with my dyson if you can enlighten me, i would be grateful;
PROMLEM:
i just bought a multimetre today and measured both battery and the main body , battery was ok 23,5 V . I measured the main body for the first 3 seconds i got the beep sound and it stoped. Can i assume there is a short circuit in main body? But when i insert the battery it works with no problem . After 5 mn of working it gives me the red flashing light and stops. Then i remove the battery and press the button to check it , it gives blue light and 23V which means it is ok ? What can the red light result from even though battery and main body works ok? thanks in advance
Sounds like you have a bad cell in your battery ..... not providing consistent voltage throughout.
The good cells are charging like they are suppoed to, giving the vacuum enough power to run. The bad cell seems to be draining your good cells, causing your vacuum not to perform properly.
I hope this helps.
@@bamaphoenix9873 thanks a lot dude, after all it turned out that all the cells went bad. I mean it had been 6 years since i bought the v6
@@torukojinnn6331 Thanks for hollaring back at me. One of my jobs is vacuum repair .... and I'm always learning something new.
Dysons have a great motor for their size, but the over all design and stuff that the common operator has no clue about, they are just not user friendly. Way too expensive for their capacity.
Have a blessed day. ✌😎👍
The battery is supposed to put out 26.1 volts, not 23.5
Needs to be a class action lawsuit against dyson.. our batteries should last more than 2 months but they don't.
I'm sure that will be covered under the warranty..
so i need one black zip-tie. check!
or you can get an expired credit card and cut it into 8 equal size strips
oh my god you have it on the wrong setting and im watching you wow.
These Dyson BMS are a shame. Usual BMS stop current with faulty cell or global too low voltage , but never lock down definitively like these ones . If the battery is still good but with weak cells and you want to change them, when you disconnect this BMS without any other power source to maintain it alive, it's exactly the same.... and programmed lock down after X recharges is also the same...
it's a legal robbery for pure commercial reasons , masked by an efficient (and fragile) technology and wrong arguments ! Why is it not forbidden??
My Panasonic E-bike battery does exactly the same ...it's the new "Lithium robbery" now applied to a lot of other devices by clever manufacturers.
The board works fine. The red light is part of the low voltage circuitry.
Great video - the battery case does not easily come apart usually so here is the fastest way to get the battery case for the Dyson V6 open - ruclips.net/video/vroaV0BiMbs/видео.html
Good information but did you mean to have no sound?
Yeah, forgotten experience of watching Charlie Chaplin movies... 😄 At least should put some free music on the background
for advance DIYers. lol. lets just replace the battery.
Think I’ll just pay the 35$ for a new one. Not worth my sanity to take it apart. Yet alone fix it.
got a link to a battery below in the description.
That’s a lot of trouble to find out it’s still broken. A new battery is 16.00. And the fact you have no audio makes this waste of time video even worse. That’s assuming the average person understood what you were doing. You are not smart and wasted everyone’s time.
26.1 volt battery is $120. If it were $16, very few people would try to fix it.
False. The video was useful to show how it comes apart, even if he fumbled through getting it apart, and it is useful to show that you can check the battery voltage to see if a bad cell is the cause, and useful to know that there is a possibility that if the cells aren't bad, it could be a faulty BMS board, and that there is some hope to repair them. However, this is if it did not flash the red led indicating it has locked out and bricked itself.
It is silly of you to state it is a lot of trouble. How was it trouble? It was not. How was it a lot? It was literally near realtime and a mere 14 minutes. I bet you wasted more time on youtube today and got nothing out of it, so you were just going to watch some other video anyway if it wasn't this one. Not smart at all. Reality, please, instead of drama queen who sees 14 minutes as a lot. WOW.
Need sound!
if i want to spend time doing nothing I really don't need help
What are you? Charlie Chapman?
Talk!!!!!!
I think you meant Charlie Chaplin not chapman
be better if you spoke
Terrible time getting the cover off!!!
I show how to get it off better here and how to convert it.
ruclips.net/video/tm7HSqxGjL0/видео.html
You have to rename of this video. wtf
Question is whether it's really worth it to mess around with this battery when in reality you can simply order a 3rd party replacement battery for 20 to 30 USD. Until you have the parts, maybe new cells and toyed around for an hour or two you easily exceed the cost of a new battery. Nothing against fixing things, but not by spending a quarter to save a dime.
the video was more of a learning experience than repair. I wanted the 18650 cells out of it anyway and just wanted to see what failed in the battery pack.
most of the time if something brakes I'll pull it apart and see if its fixable or order a replacement part depinning on price but yes in this case its better to replace the battery pack than try to repair it.
An original pcb board have a chip that balance each cell voltage to be the same while charging and typical 3rd party battery only make sure the total battery voltage don't got above.... Each cell voltage could varies a lot
Would be better to retain original pcb while changing cell.
The third-party replacements are garbage. At best far below advertised capacity. At worst unsafe because they are pulling more current than the cheap cells are rated for. Quality 18650 batteries that meet the oem specs are going to cost at least $30. You're not going to get a decent replacement pack anywhere near that price.
@@dfc106 No, you don't. But I can replace the 3rd partu one several times before I reach the same cost. It's a question of when other parts fall and you replace the entire thing
Are you logically challenged? I saw no money spent, so how was it spending a quarter to save a dime? It wasn't. You have no clue about reality which is with any group of things you seek to repair yourself, you will spend the time and be able to repair most of them, so the time invested paid off, even if a few things were not worth further repair effort and expense.
Further, the 20 to 30 USB batteries are low quality junk, so you will have to make effort again to replace the cells with quality ones next time or keep buying more batteries.
Toyed around for an hour or two? Hardly. The video was near realtime and 14 minutes. We can't help it if you have a problem understanding facts and reality but please do not inject fiction instead to try to pretend you have an argument.
just report for liar :))
No sound ya bahlool 🤣
Kann kein Messgerät bedienen, steckt Motor falsch herum auf den Akku und zeigt, wie man das Gehäuse zerstört- was sollen solche Beiträge?
Новая батарея стоит $18…
Выбрось этот хлам, поставь новую и забудь!
Amateur
SPEAK! Were you born into a family of mimes? Are you extremely shy? This is like model construction for speed freaks on fast forward.
So rude!
@@deadlyvixen just curious how many classes youve taken where the teacher didnt speak at all? Did you learn much? Other than being judgemental? My intention wasnt to be rude. It was to let one know that verbal instructions along with the video will be beneficial to those wanting to learn things. There are millions of time wasters on youtube. You see a title of interest and end up wasting time just as the person who made the video wasted his own time because noone learns anything. Sorry if i upset you. That wasnt my goal
Ozempic
Instead of giving us these nonsense, why not just tell us how to BYPASS the goddamn battery?
Make it a corded Dyson?
Would be heaps better
No more battery shit.
I have just uploaded a video that might just help you out.
AC/DC 110v input 24v or even 30 volt output power supply would do, such as one from an old blender that still has a good power supply, it should work. The more amps, the better.
@@empathicallyyours4937 BTW, didn't we had a very long, but oh so pleasant chat somewhere?
Your name looks darn familiar ... .
In a pleasant way, I mean.
@@empathicallyyours4937 ?? What the heck are you talking about? No experience with blenders apparently, because NONE of them I've ever come across, use a 24V to 30V DC power supply. They're AC motors with no separate power supply unless you mean some generic USB powered garbage toy.
What's the point? The time to set that up plus the cost of a decent PSU, wouldn't be much better than just buying a corded vac and selling the dyson w/o battery.
However, and this is beyond your skill level if you have to be told, you simply pick a brick PSU with appropriate specs, which in this case is going to either be one with adjustable output near, or a fixed voltage of 24V, and although you could calculate or measure current, a good margin would be a 25A current rating. Simply connect the output to the vac's battery contacts, with a long enough 12ga cord that you can leave the PSU brick at the wall rather than dragging it around behind you, since it will be too big to shoehorn into the battery compartment.
Soundless. Joke, the whole thing. Can only guess what hes doing.. weird
14 minutes I'll never get back. Disapointed. Spends most of it getting the unit apart. After tearing the difficult to dis-assemble battery pack apart, he tests the charger (that requires no dis-assembly) and finds no problem there. Finally can't find the problem and decides the PCB has failed and ends the video. Yea, that's real world but a COMPLETE WASTE OF EVERYBODIES TIME by posting it. Was almost worth kibitzing through the thing when it became obvious this was gonna be a bust
Oh my I feel terrible for your wasting 14 minutes, as if you came onto youtube with the hope of spending away your life earning a degree in rocket surgery.
What did you do to remedy this? Spend even more time posting a reply? Brilliant. Carry on. ;)
@@stinkycheese804 social skill equal to your diagnostic techniques. Not surprised.
@@jamesduzan3345 You excel at whining. Practice much?
im no repair guy but he doesn't know "half" of what he's doing.
I'm a highly skilled "repair guy" and he knew 90% of what he was doing. The other 10% was mostly researching whether it is recoverable to repair a dyson BMS that is blinking red, and whether he could source a replacement BMS, before bothering to tear it apart in the first place.
@@stinkycheese804 only half. he knows how to measure the voltage of each cell, and presumed that is quite unbalanced, which are correct. I'm certain that the problem is that one faulty cell but you need to replace all cells at once. the BMS prevents use of the battery once it detects unbalanced battery pack. the faulty cell can be manually charged to match voltage of the others but the problem will just come back again in just a few cycles.
@@zodiacfml Agreed, if only the one cell is replaced, the problem may return with the next weakest cell, but that is not necessarily what is going on here if the cell measurements showed them close enough in voltage. Every now and then, it is the PCB rather than the cells, usually an output fet that ran hot and failed.
@@stinkycheese804 I already fixed three cordless vacuums with similar problem, only required replacing the cells. 18650 cells in six series configuration are not reliable due to high drain/heat especially if user likes using the highest suction power. Battery pack issue is less of problem once vacuum brands started using 7 to 8 cells and 2070-2170 cells.
What a useless video 😅
"Take your time with this step" Whooooohahaha. Just as well you speeded it up otherwise it would be 3 hours long. I was waiting for you to hit it with a hammer 🥸
Yeah it would be devastating if the video took an extra minute, considering there is no possible way to fast forward youtube videos. Maybe someday that will be possible. I can dream.