@@Umarzaman8400 The aluminum compressor is homemade. Lathe milled. I don't have a real milling machine. It is the same geometry as the wooden compressor except it is open on top. My wooden compressor ended up exploding. No more problems with the aluminum one, you can run the motor up to 85,000. I found some inconel 718, I'm redoing a turbine wheel with it, I hope to be able to push the motor up to 90,000. This is the maximum because of the long shaft (resonance problem at higher revs)
impressive work here buddy! I am interested into building my own turbine engine and the FD3 64 comes up as a most popular diy build with the help of Kurt Schreckling's book. Could you give a guide line as to what cost does the running engine amount at the end? This will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks to you. The final motor without control electronics costs around 100 euros. But if we only use recycled material, we can get off at an insignificant cost. Control electronics is not mandatory, but I highly recommend it. The problem is that Xicoy no longer manufactures it, you have to look for it on the second-hand market. KURT's book is ok except for the combustion chamber, it doesn't work properly. You have to use the update with the Mark Drake combustion chamber which uses real vaporizers. Finally, the life of the wooden compressor is very low for regular use of the engine, it is better to mill a compressor with an open cover in aluminum while keeping the same geometry of the blade as the wooden compressor.
@@nicolasm7012 Thank you for your input. I highly appreciate it. Yes I was wondering electronics wise - what does even go into a jet engine? An ECU that controls fuel/air flow according to thrust position on Transmitter in an equation with readings of rpm and temp sensor? I do agree - an uncontrolled and unmonitored turbine would be a risk in flight.
@@marioserafimov6714 ECUs did not exist during the first turbines. They adjusted a needle valve on the fuel supply line so as not to exceed the maximum engine speed. The basic ECU mainly controls the pump, it adjusts the flow to hold the engine rpm according to the demand of the throttle stick. The temperature is of little importance, except when it exceeds the programmed thresholds. Ecu kerostart is much more complex. On this forum a member is trying to design an open source ECU. www.usinages.com/threads/creation-dun-ecu-opensource-pour-micro-reacteur.160245/
Thank you Nicolas. You are a life saver. Soo.. am I getting this correctly? The FD3 64 is sort of operated like two-stroke in terms of fuel flow - setting up lower and upper flow limits and then dynamicly control thrust through a throttle needle.. maybe? I'll have a read through the suggested forum, as well as Kurt's book. Thank you so much.
Hi, I used PLA volcano. However, after about 5 hours of using the engine, some diffuser fins were twisted by the heat. The diffuser heats between 75,000 rpm and 85,000 rpm. Below these regimes the pla volcano is fine. Above, and for long-term use, it is better to work with classic materials (aluminum and plywood) The compressor cover is holding up properly.
Hi, great job, I'm building a Kj66 jet engine, I'm interested in printing the diffuser like you, the question is... Is the temperature in the area cool enough to preserve the PLA?
Hi, The KJ66 is a very easy engine compared to the FD3, you shouldn't have any surprises. I use volcano PLA, you have to be careful to do the cooling cycle correctly so that the printed parts do not deform. Everything will depend on the temperature of the diffuser in running. At low speeds, below 70,000, the diffuser will operate very cold. Beyond 100,000, the diffuser will exceed 80 degrees, and much more at the maximum speed of 120,000. At these temperatures 3D printing will not resist. As the FD3 is limited by design to 85,000 rpm, the diffuser remains quite cool.
@@nicolasm7012 I will have the diffuser printed in glass-filled MJF, the piece can withstand the temperature around 180 degrees Celsius before melting, do you think it is also sufficient to withstand the heat radiation of the combustion chamber as well as the heat produced by the compressed air of the compressor?
@@user-sx4dv6jp5v Yes the diffuser should not exceed 130 degrees at full throttle. Why build a KJ66 when the GR180 is almost identical and pushes more than double? Do you already have parts? The GR180 pushes 10kg at 100,000rpm. With a diffuser at 90 degrees temperature.
@@nicolasm7012 I wasn't aware of the type of engine, I'll keep that in mind. I opt for the KJ 66 because I have already purchased the compressor and I have the CADs to print the diffuser and the intake cone. One last question for you, can the case also be made of aluminium? I think so because it is cooled enough by the air flow of the compressor, I'm more worried about the part where the NGV is located but I don't think it can deform the aluminum due to heat propagation
Hi, I did a lot of research to build this engine, mostly on older gtba reviews. The only information I have is that 316 stainless steel will resist 40 hours at 700 degrees while inconel would be more than 1000. For the moment my turbine wheel has 3 hours of operation including 72 minutes in flight. It does not present any cracks on the blade roots for the moment. The main failure would come from the stretching of the stainless steel which would come to touch the ngv casing, for the moment no problems.
@@nicolasm7012 Hey Nico, Great job on the build, I'm actually repairing an FD3/67(the commercially produced version of this engine). One thought I've always had, is that stainless steel has gotten a lot better since the 90's when a lot of the GTBA info was discovered. I've often thought that using a "heat creep" resistant stainless like 347 would be better than 316. It might not last as long as inconel, but I would expect it to last much longer than 316.
Наука
This is impressive and inspiring. I want to achieve this flying FD-3 64 myself. Thx for sharing!
impressive work, the plane really moves fast nice light build and you managed a landing with the engine still running 👏👌.
Well done buddy 👍👍👍
Did you fly your FD3?
Hi Nicolas still didn't fly my fd3 I was waiting to join the club.now I got membership.
@@Umarzaman8400 Great. You have no more excuses now ;)
There is also the Kj66 to fly if I remember correctly.
@@nicolasm7012 yes soon I will fly them.and what about this fd3 alloy compressor did u make yourself.or some body else make for u?
@@Umarzaman8400 The aluminum compressor is homemade. Lathe milled. I don't have a real milling machine.
It is the same geometry as the wooden compressor except it is open on top.
My wooden compressor ended up exploding. No more problems with the aluminum one, you can run the motor up to 85,000. I found some inconel 718, I'm redoing a turbine wheel with it, I hope to be able to push the motor up to 90,000. This is the maximum because of the long shaft (resonance problem at higher revs)
impressive work here buddy! I am interested into building my own turbine engine and the FD3 64 comes up as a most popular diy build with the help of Kurt Schreckling's book. Could you give a guide line as to what cost does the running engine amount at the end? This will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks to you.
The final motor without control electronics costs around 100 euros. But if we only use recycled material, we can get off at an insignificant cost.
Control electronics is not mandatory, but I highly recommend it. The problem is that Xicoy no longer manufactures it, you have to look for it on the second-hand market.
KURT's book is ok except for the combustion chamber, it doesn't work properly. You have to use the update with the Mark Drake combustion chamber which uses real vaporizers.
Finally, the life of the wooden compressor is very low for regular use of the engine, it is better to mill a compressor with an open cover in aluminum while keeping the same geometry of the blade as the wooden compressor.
@@nicolasm7012 Thank you for your input. I highly appreciate it.
Yes I was wondering electronics wise - what does even go into a jet engine? An ECU that controls fuel/air flow according to thrust position on Transmitter in an equation with readings of rpm and temp sensor?
I do agree - an uncontrolled and unmonitored turbine would be a risk in flight.
@@marioserafimov6714 ECUs did not exist during the first turbines. They adjusted a needle valve on the fuel supply line so as not to exceed the maximum engine speed.
The basic ECU mainly controls the pump, it adjusts the flow to hold the engine rpm according to the demand of the throttle stick.
The temperature is of little importance, except when it exceeds the programmed thresholds.
Ecu kerostart is much more complex.
On this forum a member is trying to design an open source ECU.
www.usinages.com/threads/creation-dun-ecu-opensource-pour-micro-reacteur.160245/
Thank you Nicolas. You are a life saver. Soo.. am I getting this correctly? The FD3 64 is sort of operated like two-stroke in terms of fuel flow - setting up lower and upper flow limits and then dynamicly control thrust through a throttle needle.. maybe? I'll have a read through the suggested forum, as well as Kurt's book. Thank you so much.
Hi, I just came across your video, what filament did you use for the 3d printed diffuser?
Hi,
I used PLA volcano. However, after about 5 hours of using the engine, some diffuser fins were twisted by the heat. The diffuser heats between 75,000 rpm and 85,000 rpm. Below these regimes the pla volcano is fine. Above, and for long-term use, it is better to work with classic materials (aluminum and plywood)
The compressor cover is holding up properly.
Hi, great job, I'm building a Kj66 jet engine, I'm interested in printing the diffuser like you, the question is... Is the temperature in the area cool enough to preserve the PLA?
Hi,
The KJ66 is a very easy engine compared to the FD3, you shouldn't have any surprises.
I use volcano PLA, you have to be careful to do the cooling cycle correctly so that the printed parts do not deform.
Everything will depend on the temperature of the diffuser in running. At low speeds, below 70,000, the diffuser will operate very cold. Beyond 100,000, the diffuser will exceed 80 degrees, and much more at the maximum speed of 120,000. At these temperatures 3D printing will not resist.
As the FD3 is limited by design to 85,000 rpm, the diffuser remains quite cool.
@@nicolasm7012 thank you so much!
@@nicolasm7012 I will have the diffuser printed in glass-filled MJF, the piece can withstand the temperature around 180 degrees Celsius before melting, do you think it is also sufficient to withstand the heat radiation of the combustion chamber as well as the heat produced by the compressed air of the compressor?
@@user-sx4dv6jp5v Yes the diffuser should not exceed 130 degrees at full throttle.
Why build a KJ66 when the GR180 is almost identical and pushes more than double? Do you already have parts? The GR180 pushes 10kg at 100,000rpm. With a diffuser at 90 degrees temperature.
@@nicolasm7012 I wasn't aware of the type of engine, I'll keep that in mind. I opt for the KJ 66 because I have already purchased the compressor and I have the CADs to print the diffuser and the intake cone. One last question for you, can the case also be made of aluminium? I think so because it is cooled enough by the air flow of the compressor, I'm more worried about the part where the NGV is located but I don't think it can deform the aluminum due to heat propagation
Do you know how long the turbine wheel can withstand before It need to be replaced?
Hi,
I did a lot of research to build this engine, mostly on older gtba reviews. The only information I have is that 316 stainless steel will resist 40 hours at 700 degrees while inconel would be more than 1000. For the moment my turbine wheel has 3 hours of operation including 72 minutes in flight. It does not present any cracks on the blade roots for the moment. The main failure would come from the stretching of the stainless steel which would come to touch the ngv casing, for the moment no problems.
@@nicolasm7012 Hey Nico, Great job on the build, I'm actually repairing an FD3/67(the commercially produced version of this engine). One thought I've always had, is that stainless steel has gotten a lot better since the 90's when a lot of the GTBA info was discovered. I've often thought that using a "heat creep" resistant stainless like 347 would be better than 316. It might not last as long as inconel, but I would expect it to last much longer than 316.
@@gundamnitpete This is an interesting idea regarding this shade of stainless metal.
What are you repairing on the FD3/67?
Hi Nicolas how is your engine going ?
Hi,
I don't fly much at the moment. The engine has 20 flights and it runs properly. For something 100% done in a garage, it's not too bad.