Nice video. You give very specific instructions and point out the pros and cons and what to take care of when caring for this tent. Some additional information may be helpful to some below. Please note that a coated nylon storm fly is available from Springbar for $179 that significantly reduces the wetting effect of rain and improves drying time of the tent. Also increases wind resistance from 8 guy out points, It zips over the center springbar. It is very strong and will hold up well in the wind and rain. I tested it for 5 days in winds up to 50 mph. It also reduces sun damage. I also use a floor liner to keep the tent floor clean as well as adding insulation. The Springbar ground tarp is very good for this tent to keep the bottom side clean. I use a 10 x 14 16 oz tarp from Chicago Canvas for the floor liner in OD green. They are available with a fire retardent coating when you use the stove. Still need the heat matt from Springbar however just below the stove. In extreme cold moving blankets go over the canvas on the floor for added insulation and comfort on the other end where the cots are. Awning side panels called portico panels are available for $79 from Springbar. The portico panels are made of the same material as the storm fly and are zipped into the sides of the awning. It is possible to use both the awning and storm fly and portico panels but you will need two additional awning poles. I think with the massive sophisticated zip in heat shield, Excellent stove jack and stainless steel Winnerwell Stove as well as the other benefits you have pointed out, that this is the best and safest overall canvas tent on the market today for one or two person use with cots and stove for a two to ten day camp. Of course wall tents are excellent for long term (month or more) camps and larger groups due to increased room and larger size. I have owned the kodiak cabin tent and the cabelas Alaknak both fine tents, and this tent beats them hands down. It does not condensate like the Alaknak and is easier and faster to set up than the Kodiak or the Alaknak. Its wind resistance is just as good. A reinforced pole set for heavy snow loads is also available from Springbar at a reasonable price. The 8" lag screws with fender washers and an impact wrench are very effective. I currently have a cordless hammer drill I use to put the stock pegs in with and a 4 lb hammer. You can also purchase re-usable spring loaded aluminum fastners that work on tent platforms from amazon in lieu of pegs or screws. If you have an inverter in your vehicle you can charge your cordless batteries in the wilderness.
Thank you for the additional advice, I also struggle with the condensation in my alaknank tent, with both wood and propane heat. Had a uncle suggest putting a second tarp over the top to combat that but I’ve been to lazy to try it out. Thanks again for the extra advice
I've been sold. been looking for years, bought a teton and returned it before using it. I know there's tons of DIY hot tent options but this seems almost fool proof and makes me feel more secure using it. thanks for the great video!
Thank you for the outstanding review. I think I have decided to go Springbar 140 over others. I am planning on building a wood platform, setting up the tent and leaving it for months. I understand i may need to cover it somehow to protect against the sun and weather. My question is what are the actual dimensions including the distance from the tent to the guy wires? I may have to secure it with hardware other than the stakes at the tent sides.
Glad it was helpful and good question. I've never measured but I would say the awning sticks out about 6 feet and the guy lines another 4-6 from the front. So to get all that on a platform you might need your platform to be 15 x 22ft. But I think you could rig it differently to avoid such a big platform.
Nice summary. I already have small stoves. Assuming that Winnerwell uses the same stovepipe diameter (2.6 inches?), I could buy their kit, minus their stove in order to make my stove work with their tent. I have a mixed opinion about the round, removable top plate on the Winnerwell stove because any gap (and there was a large one clearly visible around the top plate) enables smoke and gaseous odors inside the tent. I find this happens when starting the fire, opening it to add wood, or as the fire is smoldering/dying down. Another issue with gaps is that they diminish the effectiveness of the airflow controller on the door to throttle down the burning because air will ALWAYS flow through the gaps.
Very nice observations on your part! Indeed I noticed on a recent campout that the Winnerwell does leak some smoke into the tent like you say and the air flow vents were not as effective at controlling the burn rate and temperature as I would have liked. Not sure it can be entirely attributed to the round top plate, but it must be a factor. Anyway, I just measured stove pipes I have and indeed they are 2.6" outside diameter. However, the flange that is in the Springbar conversion kit is about 4.5 in in diameter to accommodate the tripple baffle Winnerwell pipe segment it is designed to have run through it. So depending on what you have you may need the Springbar kit plus the tripple baffle pipe and two 45 degree elbows to make it all work. And make sure you've got a fireproof mat to set it on since the floor is PVC.
@@theoutdoorempire Thanks for the reply. I have a fire resistant floor matt and a ~4.7 inch diameter stainless heat shield. It may be a slightly larger diameter and it is not a triple baffle. I tried getting the 45 degree parts from Gstove, but were indefinitely backlogged. While they make very high quality parts, their parts availability and timeliness of order deliver is poor. Their estimated shipment of my stove was a few weeks but wound up taking close to 4 months. Based on all this, ordering the Winnerwell stove pipe, flange, heat shield and 45 degree pipes is the way to go. I bought the Gstove for two reasons. First, I wanted a larger volume than the collapsible titanium stove. Second, the titanium stove consists of 6 panels and the door. All of these fit together much more snug than the Winnerwell top plate. (Your video reveals a gap large enough to see flame around its perimeter). Collectively, the titanium stove leaked enough that the inlet air flow control was less effective than I expected.
Interesting, good to know. Your 4.7 in diameter heat shield would probably work with the Springbar hot tent kit flange which is a little bigger than 4.5 in, so you may not need the additional baffled pipe segment. But you will need the 45 deg pieces and my guess is the Winnerwell ones would work with yours, but not sure. Good luck!
Great videos! I own a CJ140 myself, I enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work. Ever look into vevor diesel heaters? I even found 3d printed flanges that zip in, and can connect the 3” heat air pipe. Pretty handy.
Nice! I've looked into Vevor a little. They actually contacted me and wanted to send me a heater in exchange for a review, but I wouldn't commit to making a video about a product I've never used before. I am curious so I may buy one myself or look at some alternatives too.
Would it be possible to set this tent up by building a perimeter out of 2x4s and anchoring the stake loops to the wood with screws or fence staples? So that one could set it up on a hard surface, make it movable, and form sort of a bathtub floor effect?
Yes I think that would be possible, except for the part about a bathtub floor. One thing I really like about this tent compared to some of the others is that floor design where it meets the walls. There is about a 2 inch hem with a rope running around the base that the stake loops attach to. When staked out right this forms a sort of lip that sheds water off and away from the walls. It works quite well and I prefer it over a bathtub floor. I think if you tried to prop this up on your 2x4 frame to form a bathtub you'd be more likely to get water pooling up inside or draining in somehow. And I also think the walls might sag funny and not stay as taut. But if you made your 2x4 frame a few inches wider than the tents footprint on either side, you could get a nice taut floor by fixing the tents stake loops to the bottom of the 2x4 frame which would shed water nice and keep tight walls on a hard base like a deck or something. Great idea. Good luck!
How does the medium woodlander heat up that tent? I have the same tent and trying to decide if I want a medium or large woodlander stove. I’m in Idaho and camp/hunt in temps as low as single digits. Looking for a stove with a long burn time that can co several hours at night with out reloading.
The Woodlander medium size works great and heats up the whole 10 x 14 tent just fine. However you can't pack enough fuel in there to last the whole night so you've gotta restock now and again. A large would probably last longer but might burn wood faster too or heat up too much, be less efficient for that space maybe. I'm gonna take this setup winter camping soon and I'll try and test that out a little closer, maybe put another video together about it.
I have the same tent and use a large winnerwell nomad stove. The large stove allows for larger/more pieces of wood, decreasing the frequency of waking up to reload the stove at night. As a data point, I recently camped in 14 degree weather (0 degree windchill). I loaded the stove at 10pm (went to sleep) and reloaded every 2.5 hours. The tent remained above 50 degrees the entire night. On the initial fire up, it took 15 minutes for the tent to go from 14 degrees to 79 degrees. I opened the tops of window panels, adjusted the stove air intake and baffle to quickly get to a more comfortable temp. I like mixing in large chunks of hardwood (oak, mesquite, etc...) as it's more dense and burns hotter.
@@theoutdoorempire I use a large winnerwell nomad in that tent. Adjusting the air intake and baffle prevents the "heating up too much" issue and allows me to go around 2.5 hours between reloading the stove. Details are in a different response in the thread below. Also, fantastic video!
This is great intel, thanks for taking the time to share! I actually just won't snow camping this week with my setup and found that I had to reload the Woodlander medium stove about every hour to hour and a half. BUT, I only had 16" Doug fir. That softwood burns fast anyway and that length barely fits in the stove crammed end to end. I think if I mixed in some hardwood and cut it down a bit smaller I could stretch that out just a bit. Probably still not 2.5 hours but more than 1 for sure. Anyway, great comment thanks again for chiming in!
What feature interests you most about the Springbar Classic Jack tent?
The wood stove. Excellent review. Thank you!
@@5tad Glad you liked it. And indeed the wood stove is awesome!
i’ve never seen a tent with a window thing for a furnace/oven. this is awesome! and that oven looks so amazing.
I love it!
I was thinking the same thing I hunt Eastern Oregon in the fall and it’s 🥶🥶🥶out there this set up looks like it will keep me warm.
I love the idea of waking up to a warm tent. Looks awesome!
It really is!
Nice video. You give very specific instructions and point out the pros and cons and what to take care of when caring for this tent. Some additional information may be helpful to some below.
Please note that a coated nylon storm fly is available from Springbar for $179 that significantly reduces the wetting effect of rain and improves drying time of the tent. Also increases wind resistance from 8 guy out points, It zips over the center springbar. It is very strong and will hold up well in the wind and rain. I tested it for 5 days in winds up to 50 mph. It also reduces sun damage.
I also use a floor liner to keep the tent floor clean as well as adding insulation. The Springbar ground tarp is very good for this tent to keep the bottom side clean. I use a 10 x 14 16 oz tarp from Chicago Canvas for the floor liner in OD green. They are available with a fire retardent coating when you use the stove. Still need the heat matt from Springbar however just below the stove.
In extreme cold moving blankets go over the canvas on the floor for added insulation and comfort on the other end where the cots are.
Awning side panels called portico panels are available for $79 from Springbar. The portico panels are made of the same material as the storm fly and are zipped into the sides of the awning. It is possible to use both the awning and storm fly and portico panels but you will need two additional awning poles.
I think with the massive sophisticated zip in heat shield, Excellent stove jack and stainless steel Winnerwell Stove as well as the other benefits you have pointed out, that this is the best and safest overall canvas tent on the market today for one or two person use with cots and stove for a two to ten day camp. Of course wall tents are excellent for long term (month or more) camps and larger groups due to increased room and larger size. I have owned the kodiak cabin tent and the cabelas Alaknak both fine tents, and this tent beats them hands down. It does not condensate like the Alaknak and is easier and faster to set up than the Kodiak or the Alaknak. Its wind resistance is just as good.
A reinforced pole set for heavy snow loads is also available from Springbar at a reasonable price.
The 8" lag screws with fender washers and an impact wrench are very effective. I currently have a cordless hammer drill I use to put the stock pegs in with and a 4 lb hammer. You can also purchase re-usable spring loaded aluminum fastners that work on tent platforms from amazon in lieu of pegs or screws. If you have an inverter in your vehicle you can charge your cordless batteries in the wilderness.
Wow! Great info thanks for taking the time to share.
Thank you for the additional advice, I also struggle with the condensation in my alaknank tent, with both wood and propane heat. Had a uncle suggest putting a second tarp over the top to combat that but I’ve been to lazy to try it out. Thanks again for the extra advice
great vlog / review. Especially showing the capacity for so many people. Cosy tent!
It really is! Thanks for watching.
I've been sold. been looking for years, bought a teton and returned it before using it. I know there's tons of DIY hot tent options but this seems almost fool proof and makes me feel more secure using it. thanks for the great video!
If hot tenting is something you wanna do, this tent definitely makes it easy and seamless. Best of luck to you!
@@theoutdoorempire thanks! I'm nervous to try it but eventually want to just go for it
Great video. Helps me understand it much better. Cool tent.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the outstanding review. I think I have decided to go Springbar 140 over others. I am planning on building a wood platform, setting up the tent and leaving it for months. I understand i may need to cover it somehow to protect against the sun and weather. My question is what are the actual dimensions including the distance from the tent to the guy wires? I may have to secure it with hardware other than the stakes at the tent sides.
Glad it was helpful and good question. I've never measured but I would say the awning sticks out about 6 feet and the guy lines another 4-6 from the front. So to get all that on a platform you might need your platform to be 15 x 22ft. But I think you could rig it differently to avoid such a big platform.
Thank you for answering my question.
Nice summary. I already have small stoves. Assuming that Winnerwell uses the same stovepipe diameter (2.6 inches?), I could buy their kit, minus their stove in order to make my stove work with their tent. I have a mixed opinion about the round, removable top plate on the Winnerwell stove because any gap (and there was a large one clearly visible around the top plate) enables smoke and gaseous odors inside the tent. I find this happens when starting the fire, opening it to add wood, or as the fire is smoldering/dying down. Another issue with gaps is that they diminish the effectiveness of the airflow controller on the door to throttle down the burning because air will ALWAYS flow through the gaps.
Very nice observations on your part! Indeed I noticed on a recent campout that the Winnerwell does leak some smoke into the tent like you say and the air flow vents were not as effective at controlling the burn rate and temperature as I would have liked. Not sure it can be entirely attributed to the round top plate, but it must be a factor. Anyway, I just measured stove pipes I have and indeed they are 2.6" outside diameter. However, the flange that is in the Springbar conversion kit is about 4.5 in in diameter to accommodate the tripple baffle Winnerwell pipe segment it is designed to have run through it. So depending on what you have you may need the Springbar kit plus the tripple baffle pipe and two 45 degree elbows to make it all work. And make sure you've got a fireproof mat to set it on since the floor is PVC.
@@theoutdoorempire Thanks for the reply. I have a fire resistant floor matt and a ~4.7 inch diameter stainless heat shield. It may be a slightly larger diameter and it is not a triple baffle. I tried getting the 45 degree parts from Gstove, but were indefinitely backlogged. While they make very high quality parts, their parts availability and timeliness of order deliver is poor. Their estimated shipment of my stove was a few weeks but wound up taking close to 4 months. Based on all this, ordering the Winnerwell stove pipe, flange, heat shield and 45 degree pipes is the way to go. I bought the Gstove for two reasons. First, I wanted a larger volume than the collapsible titanium stove. Second, the titanium stove consists of 6 panels and the door. All of these fit together much more snug than the Winnerwell top plate. (Your video reveals a gap large enough to see flame around its perimeter). Collectively, the titanium stove leaked enough that the inlet air flow control was less effective than I expected.
Interesting, good to know. Your 4.7 in diameter heat shield would probably work with the Springbar hot tent kit flange which is a little bigger than 4.5 in, so you may not need the additional baffled pipe segment. But you will need the 45 deg pieces and my guess is the Winnerwell ones would work with yours, but not sure. Good luck!
Very helpful, im struggling trying to find the perfect tent (for the wife) that meets her needs out of a 3 season tent🤫🤫
That can be tricky! I know my wife is a fan of this tent.
Great videos! I own a CJ140 myself, I enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work. Ever look into vevor diesel heaters? I even found 3d printed flanges that zip in, and can connect the 3” heat air pipe. Pretty handy.
Nice! I've looked into Vevor a little. They actually contacted me and wanted to send me a heater in exchange for a review, but I wouldn't commit to making a video about a product I've never used before. I am curious so I may buy one myself or look at some alternatives too.
@@theoutdoorempire yona adventure makes the zip in heat pipe piece. Pretty clever
Thanks for the content.
Thank you for watching!
Would it be possible to set this tent up by building a perimeter out of 2x4s and anchoring the stake loops to the wood with screws or fence staples? So that one could set it up on a hard surface, make it movable, and form sort of a bathtub floor effect?
Yes I think that would be possible, except for the part about a bathtub floor. One thing I really like about this tent compared to some of the others is that floor design where it meets the walls. There is about a 2 inch hem with a rope running around the base that the stake loops attach to. When staked out right this forms a sort of lip that sheds water off and away from the walls. It works quite well and I prefer it over a bathtub floor. I think if you tried to prop this up on your 2x4 frame to form a bathtub you'd be more likely to get water pooling up inside or draining in somehow. And I also think the walls might sag funny and not stay as taut. But if you made your 2x4 frame a few inches wider than the tents footprint on either side, you could get a nice taut floor by fixing the tents stake loops to the bottom of the 2x4 frame which would shed water nice and keep tight walls on a hard base like a deck or something. Great idea. Good luck!
How does the medium woodlander heat up that tent?
I have the same tent and trying to decide if I want a medium or large woodlander stove.
I’m in Idaho and camp/hunt in temps as low as single digits.
Looking for a stove with a long burn time that can co several hours at night with out reloading.
The Woodlander medium size works great and heats up the whole 10 x 14 tent just fine. However you can't pack enough fuel in there to last the whole night so you've gotta restock now and again. A large would probably last longer but might burn wood faster too or heat up too much, be less efficient for that space maybe. I'm gonna take this setup winter camping soon and I'll try and test that out a little closer, maybe put another video together about it.
@@theoutdoorempire Thanks for the reply!
I have the same tent and use a large winnerwell nomad stove. The large stove allows for larger/more pieces of wood, decreasing the frequency of waking up to reload the stove at night. As a data point, I recently camped in 14 degree weather (0 degree windchill). I loaded the stove at 10pm (went to sleep) and reloaded every 2.5 hours. The tent remained above 50 degrees the entire night.
On the initial fire up, it took 15 minutes for the tent to go from 14 degrees to 79 degrees. I opened the tops of window panels, adjusted the stove air intake and baffle to quickly get to a more comfortable temp.
I like mixing in large chunks of hardwood (oak, mesquite, etc...) as it's more dense and burns hotter.
@@theoutdoorempire I use a large winnerwell nomad in that tent. Adjusting the air intake and baffle prevents the "heating up too much" issue and allows me to go around 2.5 hours between reloading the stove. Details are in a different response in the thread below.
Also, fantastic video!
This is great intel, thanks for taking the time to share! I actually just won't snow camping this week with my setup and found that I had to reload the Woodlander medium stove about every hour to hour and a half. BUT, I only had 16" Doug fir. That softwood burns fast anyway and that length barely fits in the stove crammed end to end. I think if I mixed in some hardwood and cut it down a bit smaller I could stretch that out just a bit. Probably still not 2.5 hours but more than 1 for sure.
Anyway, great comment thanks again for chiming in!
Whew lawd that tent is expensive but very nice
Have you ever had it in deep standing water? Did the floor leak?
Nope, never had it in standing water and don't intend to. I'm sure this, or any tent, wouldn't stay dry in that case. But in rain it's great!
Does the door zip closed across the bottom?
Yes it does, thank goodness!
What cot are you using?
The Coleman Trailhead Easy Step. Nothing fancy but pretty cheap and does the job.
Worried about wind & sparking
No big deal in my experience.
I never seen a Chinese zipper that didn't break in a week. There's no way I would buy that one.
Been great for me so far.
I would think for $800.00 this thing could easily be made in USA. Sorry no deal for me.
Maybe so. Thanks for sharing.
I'll stick to my alaknak and my big horn 3