I like this format. That little chain looked like it had cut its last limb, but you were able to resurrect it one more time. If this is a customer's chain, I'd attach a note that there's little left to sharpen. The customer will appreciate it and the hardware store will make a sale, a win-win situation. Customers appreciate being told the truth and will be back. A local car dealer used to advertise that if you treat your customers fairly they'll tell an average of 3 of their friends, however, if you don't treat them fairly, they''ll tell an average of 9 of their friends. Word of mouth is your cheapest form of advertising...
Makes me think of the Tractor Supply/Bayco Kord Manager. Over 600 views the first 3 days. Typically I will get between 200 and 300 in that time period. I wonder if it is that bad news travels fast?
Tom, George sent along a chain so I could try the sharpener without wearing a good chain unneccesarily. It was pretty much shot to begin with. When I gave it back to him he said he hadn't seen one done that well in a long time. He didn't have a saw that it fit so we really don't know if it works. 😁😎 I expect that since the geometry is correct and the edges are sharp it will cut. You are absolutely correct about word of mouth being best judgement of a supplier. If the consensus is that more than a few had problems with them it might be better to look elsewhere.
I have one sitting on the bench right now. I intended to do a compare and contrast but I think it might be confusing. I will do a separate review of the HF. Note: The HF works but it is not as rigid as the Foley Belsaw. The plastic frame is too flexible. I can sharpen a saw chain with it but I have to be careful to apply even pressure and remove as little metal as possible.
George didn't have that attachment. I have half the chain sharpener for the 1055. I finally got the manual on it. It needs some parts that I want to make.
Hi. Love the video. I have a model 399 and I am missing the operation manual. would it be possible for you to post your digital copy either here or somewhere that I can retrieve it? Also if you cannot post it, the base that swivels with the angle marks on it can be positioned in three different spots. Do you know what those different spots are used for? I noticed in your video you had shifted the base forward going from one side of the chain to the other
it was a fun project. I still have the HF sharpener and with the new base, some tweaks, and patience it will do a good job. If I find one of these I will retire the HF to someone else's shop.
Good point Tom. I also had it in a curved chainsaw bar. I wanted to give a visual representation of what I already knew. It didn't list it in the manual but touching the top of the tooth and then dialing the stop down worked really well. It let me set the depth with micrometer precision. 😊😊
I have been subscribed for quite awhile. I understand that in order to get the latest video, I must click on the bell to get the latest and greatest videos. Now I had a question, so while typing, I clicked on the bell just to see what would happen and sure enough it answered my question, that being, Click once and you get occasional videos and click again and you get every video as published. Now I suppose all the viewers that knew this are saying DUH ! Anyhoo, enjoyed your video...Ken, the old guy from Marina CA
The Bells & Whistles part of RUclips changes like most of us change our socks. You know who you are and once a year is not often enough. 😊 But anyway I realized that I use to mention subscribing on the last screen as part of the annotations feature in RUclips. RUclips stopped annotations a while back. My subscriptions are always increasing but not at the rate they use to. It's always something. 😊
I have a different model of a Foley belsaw sharpener it's not called a team mate but the screws on either side at the endpoint I believe are threaded into the cover and the nut on the outside is a jam nut on both sides found out if I loosen the gym that on both sides tighten the screw on either side ever-so-slightly it took out most if not all of the play but you are speaking of on your video around 650
Boy Howdy my file looks better all the time. Just one handle to worry about but it makes all matter of sounds when running. That was a blasted anti-kickback chain and no wonder it was sideways. I've never seen one cut worth a hoot anyway but it's a site better than it was. And you got to a lot of sharpening problems, the angle and dept gauge or DRAG as they're called here. The angle needs to be the same on both sides. If it's the wrong angle but the same, it'll cut. I knew a guy that filed a chain on a 45. It cut fine but the longevity of the edge might suffer BUT it cut. And the drags being the same height. Right THERE is a LOT of cutting quality. A tooth is higher at the front and lower at the rear. The more that's filed or ground away the lower the cutter is in proportion to higher the drags are and the thinner the cut is. You need to take the drags down as the tooth is shortened to keep it cutting right or it'll start bringing out fuzz instead of chips BUT you can sure take them down too far. Husqvarna makes a depth gauge for filing drags. IF you can find a Carlton file-o-plate, THAT is the best there is. Oregon bought out Carlton and all the good Carlton stuff vanished. But the Husky job works fine. A notch to fit over the drag to0 relation to the tooth and just file the drag flat with the plate. Can't go wrong. imisteryman has a 3 part chain sharpening series BUT has a link to the original Carlton book about chain sharpening. I've eyeballed it and it is a GOOD read! You'll be glad you did and you'll like it too, Unc. It might be the same as Georges book.
Absolutely Lewie. Setting the depth gauge was the first thing I learned. Having both sides the same is very important. If not the saw will track off to the side and bind. I always had to sharpen Dad's saw chain when I borrowed it. In this video took a long time to work through the bugs in the chain. Taking off that much tooth wirh a file was why I bought my own saw. I only loaned it out once and found out why Dad's saw was always screwed up.
I only loaned my 45 out once and my neighbor that had more money than I did took care of it. In a bad way. I need to get it going again but the 440 still runs but the 45 is the MAN of the two. And you're dead right about them cutting sideways. That's most likely what's wrong if'n they do! A-PLUS, UNC!
![How to Sharpen a Chainsaw with Elegant Efficiency [smoother & straighter cuts]](/img/1.gif)
very helpful & informative vid. i like that you put pics from manual. extremely helpful to visualize.
I like this format. That little chain looked like it had cut its last limb, but you were able to resurrect it one more time. If this is a customer's chain, I'd attach a note that there's little left to sharpen. The customer will appreciate it and the hardware store will make a sale, a win-win situation. Customers appreciate being told the truth and will be back.
A local car dealer used to advertise that if you treat your customers fairly they'll tell an average of 3 of their friends, however, if you don't treat them fairly, they''ll tell an average of 9 of their friends. Word of mouth is your cheapest form of advertising...
Makes me think of the Tractor Supply/Bayco Kord Manager. Over 600 views the first 3 days. Typically I will get between 200 and 300 in that time period. I wonder if it is that bad news travels fast?
ALWAYS! The gossip fence stayed HOT!
Tom, George sent along a chain so I could try the sharpener without wearing a good chain unneccesarily. It was pretty much shot to begin with. When I gave it back to him he said he hadn't seen one done that well in a long time. He didn't have a saw that it fit so we really don't know if it works. 😁😎
I expect that since the geometry is correct and the edges are sharp it will cut.
You are absolutely correct about word of mouth being best judgement of a supplier. If the consensus is that more than a few had problems with them it might be better to look elsewhere.
I bought a chain saw sharpener at HF a few years back. I should have looked for one of these instead. Great video, thanks.
I have one sitting on the bench right now. I intended to do a compare and contrast but I think it might be confusing. I will do a separate review of the HF. Note: The HF works but it is not as rigid as the Foley Belsaw. The plastic frame is too flexible. I can sharpen a saw chain with it but I have to be careful to apply even pressure and remove as little metal as possible.
Same with a file. I try and just polish the gullet and leave it be.
Great video! Just wondering, did George get an attachment for the 1055 to sharpen chains? If so I’d like to see that setup. Thanks!
George didn't have that attachment.
I have half the chain sharpener for the 1055. I finally got the manual on it. It needs some parts that I want to make.
Hi. Love the video. I have a model 399 and I am missing the operation manual. would it be possible for you to post your digital copy either here or somewhere that I can retrieve it? Also if you cannot post it, the base that swivels with the angle marks on it can be positioned in three different spots. Do you know what those different spots are used for? I noticed in your video you had shifted the base forward going from one side of the chain to the other
i'm looking for the model 39 manual
399 manual
Nothing to say except fascinating ! 👍
Get a saw and a file!
it was a fun project. I still have the HF sharpener and with the new base, some tweaks, and patience it will do a good job.
If I find one of these I will retire the HF to someone else's shop.
A thicker ruler works better for gaging the depth and rakers...
Good point Tom. I also had it in a curved chainsaw bar. I wanted to give a visual representation of what I already knew. It didn't list it in the manual but touching the top of the tooth and then dialing the stop down worked really well. It let me set the depth with micrometer precision. 😊😊
Check out the HUsky depth gauge thing and see what you think.
I have been subscribed for quite awhile. I understand that in order to get the latest video, I must click on the bell to get the latest and greatest videos. Now I had a question, so while typing, I clicked on the bell just to see what would happen and sure enough it answered my question, that being, Click once and you get occasional videos and click again and you get every video as published. Now I suppose all the viewers that knew this are saying DUH ! Anyhoo, enjoyed your video...Ken, the old guy from Marina CA
The Bells & Whistles part of RUclips changes like most of us change our socks. You know who you are and once a year is not often enough. 😊
But anyway I realized that I use to mention subscribing on the last screen as part of the annotations feature in RUclips. RUclips stopped annotations a while back. My subscriptions are always increasing but not at the rate they use to.
It's always something. 😊
I have a different model of a Foley belsaw sharpener it's not called a team mate but the screws on either side at the endpoint I believe are threaded into the cover and the nut on the outside is a jam nut on both sides found out if I loosen the gym that on both sides tighten the screw on either side ever-so-slightly it took out most if not all of the play but you are speaking of on your video around 650
Thanks Doug. 😁😎
Boy Howdy my file looks better all the time. Just one handle to worry about but it makes all matter of sounds when running. That was a blasted anti-kickback chain and no wonder it was sideways. I've never seen one cut worth a hoot anyway but it's a site better than it was. And you got to a lot of sharpening problems, the angle and dept gauge or DRAG as they're called here. The angle needs to be the same on both sides. If it's the wrong angle but the same, it'll cut. I knew a guy that filed a chain on a 45. It cut fine but the longevity of the edge might suffer BUT it cut. And the drags being the same height. Right THERE is a LOT of cutting quality. A tooth is higher at the front and lower at the rear. The more that's filed or ground away the lower the cutter is in proportion to higher the drags are and the thinner the cut is. You need to take the drags down as the tooth is shortened to keep it cutting right or it'll start bringing out fuzz instead of chips BUT you can sure take them down too far. Husqvarna makes a depth gauge for filing drags. IF you can find a Carlton file-o-plate, THAT is the best there is. Oregon bought out Carlton and all the good Carlton stuff vanished. But the Husky job works fine. A notch to fit over the drag to0 relation to the tooth and just file the drag flat with the plate. Can't go wrong. imisteryman has a 3 part chain sharpening series BUT has a link to the original Carlton book about chain sharpening. I've eyeballed it and it is a GOOD read! You'll be glad you did and you'll like it too, Unc. It might be the same as Georges book.
Absolutely Lewie.
Setting the depth gauge was the first thing I learned.
Having both sides the same is very important. If not the saw will track off to the side and bind. I always had to sharpen Dad's saw chain when I borrowed it.
In this video took a long time to work through the bugs in the chain. Taking off that much tooth wirh a file was why I bought my own saw. I only loaned it out once and found out why Dad's saw was always screwed up.
I only loaned my 45 out once and my neighbor that had more money than I did took care of it. In a bad way. I need to get it going again but the 440 still runs but the 45 is the MAN of the two. And you're dead right about them cutting sideways. That's most likely what's wrong if'n they do!
A-PLUS, UNC!