Half Priced Chainsaw Chain!!! How to make your own loops of Chainsaw Chain
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- Опубликовано: 27 май 2021
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Jed was a very humble genius.
I've thought this before but never mentioned it, you are exceptionally good at interviewing people while they demonstrate something. Two thumbs up 👍👍
Thank you so
Much that compliment means a lot to me as that’s what I most enjoy doing 🙏
The (75) is 3/8’s .063 gauge… 73 is 058 and 72 is the.050 gauge 3/8’s chain… 90 is actually a 3/8 .043… it’s neat super skinny chain that turns a little engine into a real beast… like a combi-tool can pull a 14” bar for your polesaws!
75 means 3/8 pitch .063 gauge or 1.6mm. There's a table for this info. I'm don't use enough chain to buy a chain breaker or press. A mate gave me some 3/8 chain suitable for my MS210 and I cut the chain by running a small angle grinder over the rivet head and then punched it out and then peined the rivets with a ball pein on a slab of steel.
In Oregon speak...72 series is .050, 73 is .058, and 75.....in the 3/8 (.375 actually rounded up from something like .367).
Just came here to call you Hank
www.frawleyssawshop.com/chain-codes.html#:~:text=75%20%3D%203%2F8%20pitch%20.,050%20gauge%20or%201.3mm
@@brunomahle1618 LP, 0.0370", 3/8". Full size 3/8" 0.375" pitch.
@@brunomahle1618 75 means .063 gauge
This is a chain for homeowner saws, and as a homeowner in the Southeast who doesn't really count wood by the cord ruclips.net/user/postUgkxbs4FIpzuLyOJe2SesfbtvXi1CTnUXroD I have this (or 20BPX) on several saws at different levels of smallness. I've never felt that the safety chain is holding me back. I buy multiple chains, and when the installed one doesn't feel grabby enough, I file it, then throw it in a cup of gasoline while I rotate to the next one. I have yet to file one down to the wear lines, so I feel like I'm getting my money's worth, and I'm happy about this new 3-pack - although, at this rate, it's going to be awhile before I buy another. I don't know why I would try anything else.
Is it bad I like to flex that I’ve watched every one of your videos start to finish no skips? 😂
No it’s wonderful!!! Thank you! :)
This might be the only channel I enjoy every video, regardless of subject, always entertaining! Jed and yourself are great resources of knowledge and skill sets.
Will we be getting an MS400 video? I'm interested to see how the magnesium piston holds up, it also fills a good size for a lot of people wanting to get a bigger saw than their MS261 yet not needing to jump to a MS462.
I have a ms 291 and I'm looking forward to getting a bigger one for milling, any recommendations?
Good video. I love watching your videos.
You can also build loops of chain with simple tools: a grinder, a small ball peen hammer, a chainsaw chain repair set with small punch and pocket punch breaker, and a strong metal surface to place chain when you peen the rivets. To make chain loop, count drivelinks, grind off tops of rivets for tie strap to be removed, use punch and braker plate to punch out rivits, put new tie strap on to join loop, carefully peen tops of new rivet with lite taps until mushroomed about same as the other rivits to complete the loop. I have built over a hundred chains like this.
Another good tip is to count your links twice for the first chain of a particular size, then after yo have cut the chain to length, use that section of chain to mesure additional chain sections until you have all the chain you need of that link count. Then you can make your loops and if necessary, box all the chains of that size.
Thanks again for the great video.
The question is what amount of torque do you put on that ratchet part bc spinning the other part just forms the mushroom. The ratchet is what puts pressure on it. So if you knew the torque you could replace that ratchet with a torque wrench and get them perfect Everytime. Not that it matters lol
Cool video, a little change of pace in the shop footage is always good
My father in law was a timber faller, he was faithful to Bailey's, they originated in Laytonville Ca about 45 minutes from my home in ukiah ca.
He was also a faithful husqvarna user, keep up the great videos.
First of all, we love Jed. That’s a bad dude. But as a Stihl dealer and saw enthusiast, I’ve wanted more info on this topic. You guys rock please keep up the good work and vids!
The nail trick works, but I've found Bailey's Woodland pro chain measuring chart makes the process a bit easier. Cheap too. Just stick it down on the work bench and no more link counting guess work.
Thanks for the tip!
Can't you just split the old chain, lay it on the bench and bang in a nail?
I guess that's not the best option if you're making spares and the old chain isn't being thrown out?
SCOD nar not a good idea, as the old chain will be worn and as each link wears it adds up and becomes longer... ie stretch 👍
I just got two rolls of chain because you guys made this video. Thank you so much rest in peace jed
Oregon has decals you can stick down to your bench that have all the different chains and the link counts on them. Very handy.
You could try an old toolmaker trick for finishing the mushrooming of the rivet. Take a ball bearing of the appropriate size and set it on the mushroom side while the link is sitting on the anvil. Now smash the ball bearing with the flat side of your hammer and this will push the material from the center to the outside creating your mushroom.
Love the vids...stay safe!
Great info. We lost a true professional. Thanks Jake
"Oh man yeah" lol. Love when Aaron Rodgers helps out.
"Half priced chain" clickbait 🤣 still like it
Joke
Nice job guys. I've messed around with my own tool bits for creating the mushroom as my background is mechanical engineering. After a few deferent angles on the tooling I've got the perfect mushroom now and it looks like the factory joins . Keep up the great work guys
Good video,💪💪💪💪🙌
Thanks 💯
I’m thinking you can still call it %50 less because you you are making less trips to the store, shipping, bathroom is right outside
, no masks etc. Great video, thanks for all the tips and tricks. My son and I use many of the felling techniques for our tree farm in Western Massachusetts. The Sizwell (sp) is our favorite in dropping a leaner and spinning it as it falls. Also, we often make our back cut first, drive the wedges and then pie thanks to your vid. We r gonna try inbred’s square filing next. Keep ‘‘em coming. Tim and Tai.
Come on Jake, you're a big youtuber now, where are the affiliate links to buy everything!?!?
Amazon
He's Dead
Great video (as always.. which is nice to be able to say). It's always great when Jed and you are sharing your knowledge. Jed needs his own channel. Really he does. The guy knows an enormous amount like you.
Still waitinf for big tree part2
Love the new logo
Dammit man! You had me at half price chain! I just ordered the hardware to make my own and some for my buddies. Thanks ,good info
If you can find it on Amazon, you can spend a few minutes and find it somewhere else cheaper.
75 indicates.063 which is the gauge, or thickness of the chain
And if your running an 8 pin sprocket you’ll probably add a DL
👍🏻
I had to fell a couple cedars that were all tied up together between two houses. I’m a landscaper and don’t have a lot of experience with felling trees in tight areas, but I have learned a few things from watching your channel that have proved to be very beneficial. Thank you and keep up the great work!
Thanks! Happy to help! :) be careful out there!
@@guiltyoftreesoneastsidetre4792 100% I know when it’s time to call in professionals. There are to many jacks of all trades out there who think they can do it all but end up costing a home owner more and end doing an unsatisfactory or unsafe job.
Great video guys, so much more informative AND entertaining than several others I watched first on this subject. Not only do you know what you're talking about and doing, you're also good teachers - something most on here are not.
Always used to do this with minimal tools. Oregon hand punch with the chain anvil. Never had the bench rivet rounder. I think we had a hand type. Haven't done it since 98. Just getting back into some tree work. Definitely gonna get me a new A300 so I'm getting with the times. Love the videos.
Thanks for the video! Im lucky to have an employee that worked at a rental center for decades and he handles the chains, maintenance,etc for me nowadays. Until the last few years I honestly just bought the factory chains and threw them in a pile and sharpened them when I had time and then threw them away after 4-5 times. Now the damn chains are double the price (especially Sthil)and we have been making more of them. I think I will order the proper tools you have and set up a dedicated work bench for chains. We have just been using a dremel to grind the rivet and a hammer and punch to set it. Thanks again!
The process of forming the rivet is called Rotary Forging or Rotary Forming. It's a cold swaging process where the pressure of the screw deforms the metal to fit into the rotary die. Oil is required to keep the metal from galling (smeared like a bearing looks after running with no oil).
Jake, you are a really good teacher. You get to the what, how, and most important why of everything you explain on here. Really impressive your depth of knowledge at such a young age. And then Jed is like the google of chainsaws. If you want to know something about taking down a tree, you don’t google it, you Inbred Jed it. 😄
haha love it!!
Jed and Lt. Frank Drebin... great minds think alike.
Great information. Thank you
Am I a tree guy? No. Have I ever chainsaw cut a tree down? No. Do I even own a chainsaw? No. Do I really enjoy all the videos Jake makes on his YT channel? YES!!!
Haha AWESOME!!!
Love that shop!
Just bought all that stuff last year from madsens as well as the oregon chain grinder makes life so much easier and saving a bunch of money
I love y’all!
Right on guys - great video !
My first job way back in the 1980's was at an agricultural engineer. Used to make up new chains from the roll. We used to repair chains too, but some people would bring in a worn-out chain which we would have to refuse to repair.
I use one of those older Granberg File’n’Joint guides and a caliper to get the teeth all the same size after a few hand filings. Gets them all renewed and I feel like I’m getting the most out of chains and I’m not being disposable, but I totally know that it would be cheaper AND easier to throw a new chain on in the time it takes!
And like a bicycle chain being made, if you crimp or mushroom them a bit too tight, you just need to apply slight side pressure or slightly “bend” on the chain (sideways so the links gain a bit of looseness). Better a hair too tight than too loose, it can always be loosen (almost always). Awesome channel, you guys are the pros. !!!
The 75 on the drive link is Oregon nomenclature. You can search their charts for the numbers on a chain and it will tell you the style and size of the cutters and the thickness of the drivers(.043, .050, .058, 063 are the ones I have).
Those little riders are the heel for the back one(not sure about the front), on the newer chains they are different heights so they have to/should be put on properly.
Great video guys.
Nice Brett
So, what does "75" actually mean? Is it a part number, size of something, or what?
@@wallykramer7566
Check out this link, they do a great job of describing all "things" saw chain :).
www.frawleyssawshop.com/chain-codes.html
You will see that "75" is the number Oregon uses to designate 3/8 pitch .063 gauge chain.
@@Vic-wi2qx Funny, I just got an alert for this post.
Glad it's helpful :).
yes! thank you for this video..i wanted to see this especially from you.
Thx for this vid. Was wondering how this process works.
Suggest that the adjustable die is better for use when repairing used chain as provides perfect support to reduce risk of damaging drive links when breaking out damaged parts.
If using rivet spinner correctly, you shouldn't need to use hammer to finish. By using the hammer to finish, you risk inducing stress fractures in the shank. Increased risk of catastrophic failure of join in service.
The shank of the preset tie strap has a shoulder to allow for proper flex of finished joint. Check for damage / burs to edges of drive links upper & if not punched square, the hole rivet mounts on. There are different presets for 0.043" / 0.050" & 0.058" / 0.063" gauge drive link. There are different cup / die for 1/4", 3/8" LP & 0.325", 3/8", 0.404" rivet heads. Two sizes. Separate third, bigger version for harvester 3/4" chain.
Later 2, same strap, for brand.
Putting a drop of oil on tip, makes for a smoother rivet head & reduces wear on one's equipment.
Great video's. Since this is a chain video, the square vs round file was very interesting. I was wondering if you could explain the differences (in applications and why) a full comp, semi skip, full skip and the chains that have like 2 cutters for every 6 links.
At least a video idea. If nothing else.
Great info!
Hello Jake and ETW. I love your videos . I've been binging them.
Would you ever take a link off a chain if it gets too loose for the tightener to get the chain tight enough or do you think the chain is shot?
I have used 16" electric chainsaws that seem to have limited range for the tightener.
AWESOME video! Thank you. Which Oregon chain do you guys use???
Hi I woch your videos everyday tell the team I said hi and I woch thor videos everyday I love you guys I love the video
Great breakdown! Would love to see an MRS vs SRS comparison, based on your gear.
That a great idea to have a permanent measurement for the chain.
Hey Jake really enjoy watching your videos, they're very informative and fascinating to watch. I was wondering if you could do a how to video on your method of safely and efficiently limbing and bucking a tree once its been felled. (I think those are the terms but correct me if I'm wrong). Always looking forward to the next video. Take care.
I use the Oregon chain measuring chart works good.
Great video.
The number on the driver is Oregon's chain series number. They use different numbers for the different chains. The differences being the pitch, the guage, tooth type or size and various characteristics.
Cool demo! When replacing motorcycle chain, the process is the same. Motion Pro have made a little portable tool that makes the delicate job easy, but it is not made for thinner chainsaw chain. Even so, I wonder if somebody will come out with a tool to make the chainsaw proces easier. The problem is, if any tool is expensive it will take big volume before one starts to reclaim the investment.
Jeds the man!
agreed
A 20 minute video about how to cobble a chain together should only take around 3 to 5 minutes. Sheesh, the waffle was excruciating !
Great video, re forming the rivets, yes, oil, and they are cold formed, your better to have good pressure early so you dont end up work hardening the rivet and that makes the final closing more difficult, form it up, watch as it closes up, then easy pressure in little bits each time to get to the final stage of a tie strap with no binding and no slack, like the other formed tie straps on the chain. No need to hammer them the final bit, but if your in the field, and no spinner handy, then use hammer and concave punch head and form them up.
Keep the great vids coming.
You beat me to the cold rivet part and yes you need oil. A dab of grease also works and doesn't make a mess out of your vise and shop floor when you are doing a lot of chain.
Read the Oregon chain book, 75 is their identifier for a particular chain
Now all I need is to be able to afford different saws and bars…
The only bars I like are green 🚀💎
Ya I saw the vid and yes it's worth it. Good show
At least you know when hes done talking lol. I might look into this as i have about 1-200 more mesquites to trim/remove on a property
When you punch out the old rivet, the cutter tooth needs to be on top, right? I mean the cutter needs to be on the inside of that river puncher, facing the wall in your case as opposed to facing the edge of the bench? I know the rivets only come out one way but I can never remember which way.
Convenience! Being able to make a loop as you need comes in handy. Time/money saved vs driving to the dealer at 4 bucks a gallon! I write the number of drive links on the box so I don't forget.
Use a scrible on the bar. The number of links
Love your videos. Could you tell me by chance if those 2 items on the shelf sided by side are indeed huge spotlights? If so what brand and where did you purchase them?
This episode of GOT was filmed with a toaster 😂
Still a great vid, always learn heaps from you guys, keep it up!
Great video for people who can't get it on.
thank you
The number 75 indicates that it is a chain made by 'Oregon' with a 3/8" pitch and a gauge of .063".
Don't forget to wear safety glasses while grinding... Small chunks of metal are difficult to remove from your eyes...
That's an eBay price. But when it's a retail price face to face over the counter, that's the highest cost. Also madsen's is able to sell some types of chain cheat then others. So, the savings depends on the type of chain also. So the 50% cheaper statement was and still is true- depending on what chain you get. Plus you can get a cool Madsen's ball cap. And that's the best part. I wish Oregon would go back to the thicker chrome. A roll of Stihl chain cost more then Oregon, but the Stihl chain is harder. Baileys brand woodland pro cuts pretty good too. I think it's harder then Oregon. Or it used to be.
"inbred Jed" 🤦🏾♀️ the look he gave you! 😂😆
Congrats on 200k🤣😁🤯
Thanks!
39% cheaper before you factor in being able to repair a few links here or there if you wanted to to save a chain. Or combining/shortening chains.
In previous video I saw Jed's glasses and they seemed really cool. Could You ask him what model are they? Mine are few years old and I was thinking about changing them
happy 200k sub
Does that grinder Jed is using square cut the chisels? Or do you use a traditional grind for day to day work?
Yes square cut. I posted a video of how to use this machine back in the summer of last year called “chain grinding 101” of you want to check that out
@@guiltyoftreesoneastsidetre4792 great video too.
@@guiltyoftreesoneastsidetre4792 Thanks, will check it out now.
If your chain got stretched and you was to take off one to two drivers to get it to be tight again would that work?
Oregon makes a nice chain making template. No counting DL required. Works great. The 75 marked on the DL means 063 gauge. 72 is 050 gauge 73 is 058 gauge .
Thanks for the info!
****PIN this answer to the top !!!!****
75 is a code , says what the chain pitch and drive width is , as well as type of cutter .
All manufacturers have different codes .
If a chainsaw chain has become stretched to the point that it no longer can tense up, is the chain will have to be replaced entirely or you can take one link out?
Thanks guys
The larger diameter of the center part of the rivet is always a hair thicker than the thickness of the upper part of the driver, so you can crank the rivet down to where it looks the same as the factory rivets.
Miss Jed!😢
I have seen people using a split link here in England, saves having to mushroom the rivets over !
So what oil mix do you run? I. Sure it's bulk.
Need to add in the cost of a guy making the chains to your cost difference. I’ve been playing around with the idea of going this route. Still seems better than buying loops pre made. Thanks for the info
75 is the chain series. 3/8” pitch, 0.063 gauge
You can repair bent chain like this also.
I always spin my rivets in 2 or 3 steps. Tighten the push side a little more, spin again-
I keep bending the links when popping out the rivets. Also the whole rivet doesn’t come out any suggestions on what I’m doing wrong?
Привіт from Ukraine👍😀🇺🇦
The 3/8th .050 ga. lp chain is a half turn on my spinner to get it properly tightened.
Inbreed Jed, the Jedi of chainsaw chain.
Please do a vid on Jed's chain grinder/sharpener. Thanks guys. Filing chains is murder on my hands, and I need to start grinding. Also can you post links to the gear you used?
Do you recall the brand of the rivet spinner?