Home Repairs - 8 ft sliding door track repair
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- A repair I should have done a few years ago. Was eaiser than I had expected. Here's a link for the Home Depot rapair rail cap. Prine-Line 1/4 in. x 8 ft. Stainless Steel Sliding Door Repair Track.
www.homedepot.c...
8 years later, I am just finding out about this track repair stuff. I have been in construction for 30 years, and I never knew it existed! I will be buying some soon!
Thanks for the video I need to do this soon. BTW, I replaced my door roller carriages recently. It's not hard to lift the sliding glass door completely. Just get two suction cups from a hardware store. At most these doors(8 ft wide) weighs only 50 lbs, and if you position the suction cups you don't have to bend over much. Before, you pull the doors out you have to "retract" the roller carriage by using a screw through the "access hole" and also remove the "stopper screw" on the top of the rail that is there for theft protection. Once you do this a sliding glass door lifts up and angles out just like a screen door.
Thank you!! I thought I was gonna have to replace my sliding doors $$$ 🤷🏻♂️
It’s a perfect video to show an excellent way to solve the problem of a slider door. Thanks a million !
if you insist on using caulking, my suggestion is to use Sikaflex 221, its a polyurethane sealant/adhesive and its the same stuff used in your windshield for cars.. I used it in gluing down stainless steel sheet metal.. very durable and rugged.. lasts a lifetime and if you have to remove the cap, it will be a bitch!
I used two pieces of metal (U shaped railing) with wax paper on each side of the track to create a form for the epoxy to be placed into. This served two purposes, 1, it keeps the width under control reducing the need for sanding, and 2, provides a level reference so you can keep the top even. Once it hardens you can sand off the excess pretty easily, test the cap to make sure it will fit on, then press the cap on. So far, even for 8 foot glass doors, it has held up for well over a year now.
Although I did not apply the epoxy directly to my worn track, I did mix up a syringe full of slow (4 - 6 hour) hardening epoxy and squeezed about an 3/4 ounce evenly into the track overlay. The objective was to prevent my heavy door from bending the track into the worn low spots. As I write this, the sliding door remains fully open while the epoxy hardens. When I tapped the track overlay into place, some epoxy was forced out and I cleaned up the excess with some left over pvc clear primer. Thanks for the idea of using the epoxy and of course, your video.
this information was exactly what I was searching for. very helpful, big big thanks!!
Monroe Ganders Glad it was helpful. Hope it works as good for you as it has for me, I'm very happy with the repair.
Thank you sir for this video, I think I'm going to do exactly what you did with my problematic sliding door this weekend.
All you need to do is buy a covering for the hole track hire a boy from the naiborhood 10 dollars an hour to help w\door the sight to go to is sliding doors. Com give the details of door and you have the covering for the track done
Or just go spend $15 at Home Depot and fix it yourself like he did.
Well planned out project Jim! I've put off stuff a few times too so don't feel bad. You will enjoy that nice smooth side for years to come. Loved the bird song in the background, good company for your project. About an inch of snow this morning and they say we could see up to six more inches by Sunday. I was hoping the forecast was an bad April Fool's joke but we are back to white. I did hear sandhill cranes this week so spring is coming. Take care, and thank's for sharing your tips. Always like your projects.
+Ossie Weinert Thanks Ossie. Still getting snow eh? We had a 90 degree forecast yesterday. Don't know if it reached that but it was plenty warm. Fast approaching hot, humid and buggy summer conditions here... :-(
Ossie Weiner
Beautiful comment.
Thank you Jim - I too have put up with a bumpy door for way to long. This will be my next project.
Next time appliance moving men will “lift the refrigerator over the track and not use a dolly to roll and dent my track.
Wow, they actually rolled over your door track... Should have shimmed with wood blocks on each side...
Great video, im gonna give this a go this week.
Question, hpw do the wheels work with this product, you said you changed yours a while back, but i assume they were for the original track . Do they make different repair tracks for different rollers? Or vice versa? Just trying to get all of my sights lined up before pulling the proverbial trigger. Again, great video. Thank you for posting
Thank you. Bought the rail cap and installed. Works like a charm.
Great, glad to hear it worked for you also.... Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
The door track does that because the wheel starts rolling egg shaped and locks up when bearings are going bad.
Thanks, I did have to replace the wheels a few years back...
I did the same mine door opening is 12 feet railI I elected to only repaired the 6 foot side readjusted the door to the lock and all is well. He end was in the middle of the 12 foot rail it did not affect the wheels of the other door.
I bought the same rail,.but if your rail is too worn this won't stay on. I found a great replacement that fits over your old and screws down,works great. Here's the link.slidingglassdoorparts.com/bottom-track-rail-repair-product/replacement-track-cover-topper-heavy-duty-8?zenid=9ff19a8142a41f91289fb360a1ad0dee
The professional artist craftsman thank you for your wisdom 🎖👍
Thank you sir I need thi do this for a customer, her sounding screen door track is damaged, not as bad as yours but damaged.
This video is great,daved me from buying a new door. I had no idea that they sold the track.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate that...
Yo puse un ángulo de 3/4 asía bajo para aser el carril y funcionó muy bien
well done sir .. thank you
Thank you very much for your time, to make this video. ❤
Thanks you just saved me $250. I had a door that wasn't opening and I had to force it open so I had someone come look at it to repair it later this week bc allegedly I need a whole new track. I'm not handy but after watching the video I went to look at my door and discovered one door wasn't even on the track and that's why it wouldn't slide open. But there was a slight indentation which I hammered straight but nonetheless the door works great. I will use that cap so it slides easily.
Glad this video helped and thanks for stopping by...
Very good instructional repair 😀
LOL I lived 8 long years with a hard door that wouldn't just open and when I finally called someone to come fix it he just put the door on the track, it took him literally 10 seconds to fix a problem I had for almost a decade. Many people don't know that these doors come off easily from the track.
Well done Jim!
Thank you for your patience and elbow grease
You are awesome. Will be trying this asap
Thanks a lot for video of track repair.
Why not replaced the whole track??
The bump was a stop locator so the door does not open by it"s self.
Nice job! Thank you for posting!
I have the same issue w/ a 8' Traco sliding door. It will not stay closed and slides back open. I am going to remove my stainless steel cap I previously installed. I will build the track up w/ JB Weld and trim it to fit after it sets up. Then install the cap back and replace the rollers and adjust them. Thanks for the info. This was great.
Good luck, hope it works out for you. Mine is still rolling like new...
@woodenarrows, Hey! thank you for this great video. I will try replacing this coming weekend. I just had one question, regarding sand paper. What grit do you suggest using?
100 is a good all purpose grit. Not so fine that it takes forever and not so rough that it tears up everything...
Very helpful video. Thanks! Where did you obtain the track cap?
Oops! I asked about the cap before I finished the video.😊
Good job!
Thanks for sharing
Thank you
Also the price on those caps is now $44 at HD. If you need one,you need one...
Oh my, that's a big jump in price.
Wouldn’t it have been better to use a longer length to cap, almost the width of the door opening?
Yes, it would have been better to use full length cap but... as I stated in the video, I have an 8ft tall door, it's double pane glass and it is too heavy for me to remove from the track. So, I decide to use the staggered gap install. It has worked just fine and the door is still rolling as good as new today, 5 years later...
Thanks for posting but I found it did not work. Did all the prep which you described well. However the track topper widens when tapped over the mushroom shaped extrusion. Result, the roller won't fit onto it. Advice to all: you need a mini grinder to strip away most of the mushroom so that the topper strip retains its original cross-section dimension and doesn't spread. In as-formed size it perfectly matches the roller wheel profile. Must retry when I buy a grinder Boo Hoo :(
Nigel Taylor yes, remove the mushroom/flaring of the track. See timeline comment 0:50 to 1:05
Yeah, pay attention Nigel.
nice video. ..time for door?
Actually the door is fine. I did have the rollers replaced a few years back, the track had a few bumps but was not that bad. Over time as the rollers hit those depressions they just kept getting deeper and deeper. I had to finally do something about it. :-)
Time?
You mean how long did the project take? I took my time, was in no rush and did it one afternoon and next morning. Part of that time involved waiting for the epoxy to cure and cleaning up the patches (I had two spots to do). If you didn't need the epoxy fill I think a person could do the job in an hour or two.
thanks for the video sir!
Thanks for the video. Why didn't you use steel reinforced epoxy putty? I'm not calling you out on it, I'm asking cause I am about to repair my track and that's what I bought. If it's a known bad product, I won't use it. Thanks!
I didn't really think it was necessary, I was just trying to fill the low spots. Won't hurt to use the reinforced stuff. The real stress is going to be on the track cap itself so the epoxy was just a backer to try and prevent any future failures. Heck, it may not have even been necessary but I felt better doing the fill in advance. :-)
After my repair I now see that the track is pretty sturdy, and the weight is distributed over a good length, so the steel stuff I got wasn't really necessary, and honestly, I didn't really like it. That being said, you made the right choice by taking the time to do it right. Thanks for sharing the video!
Do not use WD40 it's oil based and dirt will stick to wheels. The wheels and track will destroy each other. Use only silicone, any wax is crap.
Silicone spray
I agree on the WD40. However, I've made quite a few windows and sliding doors work great by rubbing with a candle. Dirt won't stick to that, and generally if it gets in the roller it won't hurt anything. Heck, I've made some windows work fine without the rollers working at all by using a candle. Yes, you have to keep re-applying as it doesn't stick, and does wear away in time.
Good fix Jim :D
I need to buy the same track shown in the video, someone know where to buy this, the track depot don't have the same - thanks
Home Depot
Manoel carlos
www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-14-in-x-8-ft-Stainless-Steel-Sliding-Door-Repair-Cap-D-1579-1/202723305
WOW thank you SO MUCH for this video! I was wondering if I should build the track back up first. What kind of epoxy did you use?
I just used a standard 5 minute two part Epoxy. I don't remember for sure the brand but it was probably LocTite from the Walmart Hardware dept since I had been purchasing that brand for a few years now... That door is still rolling as smooth as new...
@@Woodenarrows do you think JB weld steelstik epoxy putty would work to build up the small sections of missing rail as long as I sand it down to match the rest of the rail? That way the cap doesn't smash down in the flat spots?
@@tatchik77 I've never used the "Steel Stick" but I have used other JB Weld products. It should work fine. All you really need it for it to harden. The replacement rail cap will protect it against any wear. Once you've sanded the original rail, be sure to clean any dirt, oils etc from the original rail with Acetone or Alcohol before applying the JB weld so it will form a good bond...
@@Woodenarrows thanks for all your help!
The track cap should not be cut, the wheels will bump over it and it will come off.
Yes I know. Did you watch the video? See timeline 1:53-2:10 and 7:36-8:37. Three years later the door is still rolling as good as new...
PAY ATTENTION to the video John, geez.... he positioned the seam where neither one of the rollers will cross it. 🤦♂️
@@stevee7774 lol, did you hear the sound from the trolley wheels, they need replaced. ACE or Lowes carry them. They also make the correct track replacement, not a cap. Your happy that's all you need.
@@johnerway7255 - Yes, I heard the sound from the rollers and they probably should be replaced, and yes I know they sell them at the home improvement stores as I have replaced mine. You implied that if the track is cut then the rollers will ride over the seam causing problems. I merely pointed out that he clearly pointed out in the video that he placed the seam where neither one of the rollers will ride over it - therefore no problem. If he had someone to help lift the door off the track he could have installed the track in one piece, but he improvised and now it’s fixed.
@@stevee7774 yes it is repaired. I've used the stainless steel track on patio doors, they worked out well. I took a small vise grip, ground them so I could pinch the lower side of the track tight to the original so not to alter the new track cover shield. Apply that with your caulk idea, may even improve the repair. Next one I'll test it out. Thanks for the reply.
What kind of epoxy did you use?
Loctite 5 minute epoxy
Just replace the whole track. trackdepot.com they carry all original patio door tracks
You missed the part where I mentioned the door was too big and heavy for me to lift it out of the track which of course would be necessary to replace the entire track. Also there is the demolition mess and repair need in removing the old track and setting and finishing the new track in it's place. The repair I did with the track cap is still as good as new now almost one year later.
Replace the whole thing with vinyl themopane
That would mean removing not only the doors, but the frame, which is more labor than it's worth when this works fine, and is quick and easy. Also, to the guy wanting to replace with a plastic door? Forget it.
Jesus thats one shitty its practically devoid of everything, where can I see the tracks?
Ask a friend to help you remove the door sometime in the near future. But, great tip on the fix 👍🏾
Never knew they made those. My sliding door is from the 60's. I just replace the wheels...but the runner has a big dip and worn for a foot or so. It slides ok so far..but I wonder if it will jump the tracks like the other ( 2nd) set of wheels did when they wore down.
When you added the cap..didn't you have to re adjust the wheels?
I may have, can't answer if it was actually a "re-adjust" or just making room to slide in the new track? I wouldn't have know as the door was such a mess to start :-)
I just repaired gouges in my track with jb weld, it worked pretty well