Great video. Well explained. I would add though- there is no reason for a traction bar like this to match the driveshaft length or angle. It's not like the driveshaft follows the arc/path of the leaf sprung axle. It certainly doesn't, which is why we need a slip in the shaft or slip yoke in the T-case. Particularly since the bar employes a shackle- which all of them should- the bar will not bind or fight any of the other moving components if the shackle is oriented appropriately. I'd invite discussion or challenge on my position there, because I'd like to help others feel comfortable that they don't need to be concerned about this aspect.
You can clamp your ground to the bracket and burn a good tack across the gap to the axle tube. Once that’s attached, youre good to finish the weld. No custon clamp required. Just an fyi
Trying to find a solution for my Overlander Ford Ranger without interfering with my air bags....this, or a take on it, seems a good answer. Thanks for doing this!
As far as your ground clamp wire idea, you were on right track for sure, what I do in that situation now is either buy an automotive braided ground strap meant to provide grounded connection to the frame from the body, or as a cheap alternative i have stripped the insulation off of heavy gauge speaker amp power wire and separated the twisted wire portions into their smaller groups, once separated, i had 8 smaller sections of wire that were probably 20GA. or so in equivalent width, I tinned the ends together and then braid them into large "flat" braid leaving it a little loose on purpose to retain flexibility, tinned the other end of the braid. and collapsed some small pieces of 1/2" copper pipe on both ends which I then drilled holes in so that it can be added to the nose of my ground clamp on welder, when a oddly shaped area to connect ground to, i simply wrap the braided portion around whatever, and use ground clamp to pinch the two ends together keeping it in place and providing a nice 3/4" wide flat contact for ground
I have Barnes perches on my K5. Very stout stuff. Now I need an anti wrap. I had very bad vibration after lifting my K5 4 inches. At just 15 MPH I thought the dash was trying to make a run for it the vibes were so bad. I couldn’t drive it around the block till I put in a double cardan joint and degree the axle with new perches. Now I have just a little vibe from 50-55 on up. I’m hoping an anti wrap will get rid of the rest. Thanks for the vid.
great video! only criticism is drilling holes in the frame flanges is very risky... Professional frame repair text books indicate the only safe place to drill is in the "neutral area" of the frame; meaning the middle of the side of the frame rail. 🤷♂ I've disobeyed this advice myself without issues up till now... but once you know the "proper way"; Murphy is more than happy to ruin your day if you go against it.
I no longer have the Bronco unfortunately, can't speak to longevity. I used that tube because I had it, if I was buying metal I probably would have gone a little thicker.
Very similar to what I put together for my XJ with rear steer. Was wondering now that you have some time on it, is there anything you would have done differently and how much of the Axle wrap did your remove ? Cheeers
Honestly haven't bashed it on any rocks yet so I can't really give a good review of that. You can see towards the end of the video that this eliminated almost all axle wrap 29:03. One thing I would definitely do differently is tack in a tube between the upper and lower bar before fully welding up the assembly. The heat warped the tubes slightly toward each other. If you had a tube in between this wouldn't be a problem.
Great video. Well explained. I would add though- there is no reason for a traction bar like this to match the driveshaft length or angle. It's not like the driveshaft follows the arc/path of the leaf sprung axle. It certainly doesn't, which is why we need a slip in the shaft or slip yoke in the T-case. Particularly since the bar employes a shackle- which all of them should- the bar will not bind or fight any of the other moving components if the shackle is oriented appropriately. I'd invite discussion or challenge on my position there, because I'd like to help others feel comfortable that they don't need to be concerned about this aspect.
Great video even 4 years later. Great info
You can clamp your ground to the bracket and burn a good tack across the gap to the axle tube. Once that’s attached, youre good to finish the weld. No custon clamp required. Just an fyi
Trying to find a solution for my Overlander Ford Ranger without interfering with my air bags....this, or a take on it, seems a good answer. Thanks for doing this!
As far as your ground clamp wire idea, you were on right track for sure, what I do in that situation now is either buy an automotive braided ground strap meant to provide grounded connection to the frame from the body, or as a cheap alternative i have stripped the insulation off of heavy gauge speaker amp power wire and separated the twisted wire portions into their smaller groups, once separated, i had 8 smaller sections of wire that were probably 20GA. or so in equivalent width, I tinned the ends together and then braid them into large "flat" braid leaving it a little loose on purpose to retain flexibility, tinned the other end of the braid. and collapsed some small pieces of 1/2" copper pipe on both ends which I then drilled holes in so that it can be added to the nose of my ground clamp on welder, when a oddly shaped area to connect ground to, i simply wrap the braided portion around whatever, and use ground clamp to pinch the two ends together keeping it in place and providing a nice 3/4" wide flat contact for ground
Ground to the piece your welding to the axle.
I have Barnes perches on my K5. Very stout stuff. Now I need an anti wrap. I had very bad vibration after lifting my K5 4 inches. At just 15 MPH I thought the dash was trying to make a run for it the vibes were so bad. I couldn’t drive it around the block till I put in a double cardan joint and degree the axle with new perches. Now I have just a little vibe from 50-55 on up. I’m hoping an anti wrap will get rid of the rest. Thanks for the vid.
did u end up getting one on your K10? how is it
Nice work man
great video!
only criticism is drilling holes in the frame flanges is very risky... Professional frame repair text books indicate the only safe place to drill is in the "neutral area" of the frame; meaning the middle of the side of the frame rail. 🤷♂
I've disobeyed this advice myself without issues up till now... but once you know the "proper way"; Murphy is more than happy to ruin your day if you go against it.
Solid video I just posted a video for a Jeep version of this. Keep up the good content
Thanks man, your fc150 is sick.
Great work !
I want to do something like this for my 92 f150 but I have a front fuel tank in the way of where the cross member would have to go.
I wish I could get a list of every part you used. I like this design
Ruffstuff makes this kit.
where did you buy kit you use?
does this help steering if put on front axle?
Love it,
how is that 1/8 wall square tube holding up? seems like it would bend easy
I no longer have the Bronco unfortunately, can't speak to longevity. I used that tube because I had it, if I was buying metal I probably would have gone a little thicker.
Very similar to what I put together for my XJ with rear steer. Was wondering now that you have some time on it, is there anything you would have done differently and how much of the Axle wrap did your remove ?
Cheeers
Honestly haven't bashed it on any rocks yet so I can't really give a good review of that. You can see towards the end of the video that this eliminated almost all axle wrap 29:03. One thing I would definitely do differently is tack in a tube between the upper and lower bar before fully welding up the assembly. The heat warped the tubes slightly toward each other. If you had a tube in between this wouldn't be a problem.
Don’t weld with the joint in I learned that the hard way lol
Best thing for that is a naked pass with a weld and then cap it duh??