International DT466E Coolant Leak from Timing Cover - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I finally get the DT466E timing cover put back together and out the door. But not without a few setbacks... No leaks so far!
Part 1 here: • International DT466E C...
I'm going with "everybody who touched that cover before Wes had never worked on anything before ever".
Seems that way!
not always, i take it you have not worked on much, never mind aluminum parts/steel bolts, something old that is made up of mix of metals chances are threads are going to come out with the steel bolts
I'm going with "the people who touched that had left feet instead of hands".
As for every thread stipped out---- My money is on an impact gun (so much faster than those silly wrenches).
I’ve never seen a more accurate video of basically explaining how working on stuff goes, it’s just always one thing after another, props to you man. Way to keep pushing.
Yes! It's not all rainbows and happiness. Everything is junk and someone has always been there before you!
Wes you are a remarkable mechanic I enjoy watching your channel while learning a great deal.
I appreciate that!
I love that Wes has the humility to show his moments of struggle, so we can all learn!
Wes, I worked on Fleet Navistars (Internationals} 33yrs and I found many bolts {very important } bolt holes in key locations TRUELY messed up. I attribute that to many Wanna be mechanics, who had no right calling themselves mechanic. You marvel me with your open mind, always going back to basic reasoning. NEVER lose that open minded point of view and you will go far with out too many costly mistakes.
I really enjoy your channel and at a point in time would of enjoyed working with ya!
as a canadian that worked on plow trucks for years at international i feel your pain, salt is awesome. and that job no matter what is miserable
Yeah, there's no way around the suffering.
@@WatchWesWork just a follow up on the gear-rotor pumps you always need to pre lube with white grease to get them to suck oil, the DT's always did that, from first gen up to maxxforce
I like your honesty and humility when things don’t go to plan. Engines are complicated systems and take time and experience to understand sometimes. You did your best and it worked out well in the end. Good job Wes👍🏽🏁🍻
Anyone who has worked on older stuff like this as a micro business knows how this rolls: the crappier the job, the more the onus is on you to improvise, economise and re-use. It's all painfully familiar. Well done, you're not alone.
Amen
Because of the cost of stripping the cover out I would have advised the customer to buy a new one. However, its the customers call after you explain the options and risks.
Great vid and thanks for sharing
👍👍👍
I agree, NEW COVER then explain the risks of using other covers.
@@NoWr2Run after the fact, no way, the customer may nor agree or not want to put that much into it, if asembled right you stand a 98% no problems later using the old, i have dont it a few times with no fail, it is not like there a lot of pressser behind it, and if you do, you have bigger problems
How much yo fix this problem
You're a good wrench. There was many a night when I had a hard time getting to sleep, going through in my mind whether I had tightened that bolt or hit those marks correctly. Good idea taking a picture.
I was scared when you said everything has to be taken apart again. It was a genuine sigh of relief when that thing started.
I was hoping for a JB Weld moment somewhere. Still a thumbs up.
Petroleum jelly works well to help oil pumps prime themselves as well. Pack the pump clear full before assembly. They prime pretty quick that way.
Yeah I should have done that first. I've never had one not prime with just oil on the gears.
Good tip!
I always coated oil pump gears with STP oil treatment stuff.
Wes, I had to laugh at the comment on taking a picture of timing gears before putting cover on. I too had the middle of night doubt experience. I ordered all timing chain replacement parts for my daughters car and 3 days after received a part in the mail from manufacturer saying “ here is the part we forgot to send ! Well I had a HS moment Knowing I had removed all timing chain parts and did I forget to put this part back in because I didn’t have it in my new parts ? We’ll car is still running and I say a prayer daily now. You really relate all of our personal experiences with these videos. Great work. I watch all the time.
It’s never too late to appreciate great workmanship! You keep making your videos and you’ll always have your viewers entertained and educated. Not to mention you immense ability to teach us a wider stretch of the English language.
"while I was looking for a suitable fan belt to hang myself" I might have laffed a little to much on that one! 😅🤣😂
I didn't intentionally watch out of order. And you wanted this out of your shop in this video. I am so glad you got that issue out of the way, eventually. Runs great now. Like you said, amazing it ran at all. You are a worthy man, Wes. Thanks for sharing your not so good experience with this truck. I would trust you as my mechanic any day! We live and learn. We are human. Nobody is perfect. You are now a little closer, though. ;-)
When in doubt, Dont Get The Torches Out. Wes you are by far my favorite RUclips Mechanic! I'm a 63 year old disabled and retired Jack of all trades and a Master of none. Lol Aluminum and cast Iron do not play well together especially in a wet environment as you have seen. Electrolysis happens.
Just a quick tip. I use like a garden sprayer that you put your roundup in to kill the weeds to fill all kinds of stuff. Differentials, transfer cases, I even adapted one to act as a pressure brake bleeder. The 1 gallon one at home depot is like 10 bucks But anyway You could have used a setup like that to prime that oil system.
New part always new part saves a come back save a headache and using anything else marries you to this truck forever
Fixing up the old one was the best decision, working on shit-boxes requires compromise. It’s amazing what you can get to work and keep working.
A tip. When you do an oil pump, pack the pump housing full of engine assembly lube. It helps create the vacuum to pull oil up, reduces initial dry scoring, and helps to reduce burning of the front main seal. Good job though.
Congrats Wes. What a nightmare project. I felt your frustration when it was not building pressure and the thought of having to disassemble the cover again. Great save!
Yeah the fan belt was calling...
I was having flashbacks when you were cranking what seemed like forever. I've never worked on a diesel engine and am very impressed with your skill level and work ethic. I'll try to remember that when I am looking for the right sized fan belt to hang myself with! Love to watch you work!
LOL. I think any size will do it if you try hard enough.
Thomas Hopkins The belts for a Ford truck with a powerstroke in them are about the longest I've seen at about 10 ft.
I say you let the customer decide. You give them all the options, all the pros and cons, if they ask you, you do the professional thing and recommend new replacement. You also make it abundantly clear unless you put a new unit on, there is no warranty whatsoever and put all of it in writing. When I was turning wrenches that's how I handled similar situations.
I'm with you on the tidying thing Wes. If I'm feeling mad or things just seem to be going to pieces, it's kinda cathartic to put something you can control in order!
Definitely a new one. You did all that work and let's say a week later it breaks or starts leaking.
Aren’t you glad you are doing the work in the days of cellphones and easy pictures. Things are so much easier to check and recheck since a camera is always in your pocket.
You do great work and explain the process well. Used to hate timing gears on Mack early E-series motors hot plate and oil to expand and replace. 👍👍
I love having a camera with me at all times. I always doubt myself.
You made my heart sink you said you might have to pull off everything and check all of the seals. I really felt for you, all that work, all that time. But, I was so gratified at the end when you solved the problem and got a some oil pressure. It is amazing what a few millimeters of wear can do. Kudos for an outstanding job, I don't think these people in town probably appreciate you as much as they should.
Keep up the good work and thank you for these interesting videos.
I was told to never install a DT oil pump without filling it up with lubriplate, that’s what our shop uses for assembly lube, sucks you had to do it twice but now you and I both know. I’m a international tech if you need any help just ask, I really enjoy watching your videos. Oh and yeah you have to crank it for awhile before they fire off
I would only use the salvage yard if I was desperate, I would do what you did...repair the piece you took off. I don't think the customer would go for the new piece unless there was absolutely no option. Good job Wes, thumbs up.
Great, great, video Mr Wes! When I was a young mechanic years ago I worked on sh*t like that, thankfully I’m retired now but was sweating bullets watching you work on that oxidized hunk of boat anchor. Way to keep fighting Murphy’s law and winning!!
From experience on these junks, prelube the main oil pump as another person mentioned. Also pull the oil temp sensor from the cover and prefill the HPOP oil reservoir.
Great job keeping your head on straight, these are the jobs that separate the men from boys.
In the uk I doubt this truck would be repaired at probably scrap it or fit a cummins engine. Wes you are my hero. Good job.
It's the same around here in Alabama I use Dex in all the newer stuff E7 Mack's and Paccar PX-9 (ISL 9 Cummins) and anything with the coolant filters. Green on the old stuff (big Cats or 350 mack) great videos man I'm by no means a professional mechanic but it's what I do for a living is maintaining the fleet of the company I work for. 30 trucks from 6.7 powerstroke to a few DT466 ISL9 Mack 350 & E7 Cat 3126/C6/7 Acert. I could go on but I won't. I'm thankful we don't encounter the rust issues here in the south like you guys do. Merry Christmas Wes that oil pump is.very similar to Cummins engines. Gerotor pump is what it's called. I actually had one fail on an ISL9 with 150k miles. Idler portion of.pump sheared off and destroyed crank/cam/ fuel pump gear sets. Busted inner and outer timing cover and broke crankshaft 50/50 in the 2nd main journal. I took it to a machine shop to see what they could do after I got the bottom end out. My mic says no-go but I needed a second option. Work...
Friggen unbelievable how you put up with some of the FUBAR stuff you put up with and yet manage to actually fix.
Incredible job you did in this SNAFU.
The idea of cleaning in the middle chaos and set backs, works. Applies for any job. Resets the brain, gives back a sense of success in a sea of defeat.
I'd let the customer decide. I'd personally replace the cover with a new part and make that recommendation. Anything you decide to do on your own is on you. If it doesn't work out, you'll have to test it back down at your expense. If the customer decides, he accepts the risk for anything other than new parts
100% Tell the customer the pros and cons, and say you can't guarantee the old part will work for a day but it might last a decade. I'd also make them adopt at least a yearly washing of the engine and entire truck.
If you put the salvaged in you still end up with junk when you are done. I'd tell the customer that if you don't go with new, you get a tail light warranty.
When you consider the time involved in taking the engine apart to get to the cover and the cost in downtime to the owner getting the work done I would install a new one. It's just too critical to mess around with. Also the owner needs to be instructed to maintain the coolant correctly otherwise this problem will come back again some day.
I can't think of a single redeeming feature of that truck or engine design. I've not seen anything vintage like that since the 50s where I live. You have the patience and attention to detail of a saint!
I’m really enjoining the content. I think a new cover would have scrapped the truck. Fixing the original is the only option. I’m sure your repair will hold but I’ll bet it’s not the last we will see of this gem. Thanks.
Probably not.
You are a man of many abilities. I'm not talking about the mechanical ones. I enjoy the narration and the honesty in your videos. Wish you call the best.
It's alive again! Nothing like working on anything that plows snow, guaranteed big problems. Replaced 6 bulbs in a pair of plows lights, just $130.00 just for bulbs alone.I think your decision to use old cover was OK, that old gal can't live too much longer without further problems. JB Weld and Right Stuff makes them live another day.
Yeah, we can't put too much lipstick on this old pig!
I would of insisted on a new one with that much damage to the part with the size of the job.
This way when you put it back together you know what you got you ain't got to worry about ship-breaking on you or having to tap and die and all that good crap just go ahead and put it back together and you know what you got amam talk
Me, too. Or the customer has to take the risk if he wants me to reuse the old cover.
@@Chris-yy7qc Anytime a customer wants a used part I provide no warranty for the labor. I refuse to have to work more because the customer wants to cheap out on used parts.
I don't mind to do it the wrong way, the paying customer deserves to get it their way, but when it doesn't work out, I don't "make it right" and work for free. That's the cost of a gamble.
At the end of the day, the customer holds the reins on how in depth a repair will be. As the tech, our job is to try to steer them on the right path. Thank goodness I work on stuff in Texas and usually don't have to worry about rust. Personally I wouldn't try to repair something as corroded and damaged as the cover. I would highly recommend to the customer that a used one be installed due to the condition of the rest of the truck. Unfortunately I've attempted repairs on stuff like this only to have to be back in it within a year because corrosion ate out another part of it. I believe you handled it correctly. New subscriber and really enjoying your content.
I was a parts guy at an International dealer in Sacramento for 3 decades before retiring 7 years ago. Those engines had occasional trouble with the electronic parts of the HEUI engines (mostly sensors,) but rarely any mechanical problems. Of course, lots of DIY guys would want to replace the most expensive parts first, with no real troubleshooting first. We very rarely saw a truck or engine with any real corrosion, no real winter here... That truck has plenty of corrosion!
I've seen several with failure of the cylinder liner o-rings causing coolant in the oil. But they are overall pretty reliable.
Brooo, you are a life saver. Well, time saver. Like you mentioned, I couldn’t find crap on this job anywhere. You provided me everything need. And luckily I’m from Texas, so no rusty bolts 😆.
On one engine I did it took more than 2 minutes of cranking before the pump got the air out and started sucking. But I also chickened out early at first. Good call replacing all the fasteners!
The cover from the scrap yard was just that, scrap.
So, that leaves the 2 options.
How I would have approached it would be to contact the customer and give him the options.
But if he chose the repair the old cover option, I would strictly state that there was zero warranty due to the damage and corrosion.
I would recommend to order and install a brand new cover but I would still give a limited warranty on the work just due to how "crusty" everything under the hood is.
Your welding repair looked fine.
You stated early on that the township doesn't have any extra money to spend so going with your repair was probably the best choice for the customer.
Well done Wes, good to see another one heading out the door.
PS, have been there looking for a belt to hang myself with. Not all jobs go as planned.
Yeah, failure is always an option!
Personally I wouldnt use either one of those covers regardless, its the owners coin but it's your reputation at risk also, thanks for sharing.!!
Did the right thing lubing up the oil pump. Great job of repair!!! Thanks
I'm glad you found the issue of it not starting.
Sounds just like the oil pump on the old Buick V8s as used in the Range Rover/Land Rovers I owned back in the 80s. If you left the oil filter off for too long when doing a filter change the oil would drain from the pump and it would not pressurise on restarting. If that happened you had to strip the pump and pack the gears with Vaseline grease to get it to prime.
Suffice to say I always made sure the new filter was ready to go on as soon as I removed the old one. 🙄
I think it was the best, that you fixed the old cover, BECAUSE everyone can change parts, but not everyone can repair stuff. Great deal. Well done.Greetings from germany.
That's true, but may not have been the right choice. I guess we will find out!
The Florida pool pump motor repair guy approved ! that was good info
Wish I had come across your video sooner. I worked in an Intl truck dealership parts dept for 42 years and saw a lot of these covers leaking. There is a TSI letter out on replacing the inner and outer covers. Take the part #'s off both covers and the parts dept can tell you the correct covers to replace the old ones. Possibly kits. The DT engines all have front seals WITH sleeves
Been in this same scenario either get another used one or get a new one. Redoing that job is worth every penny that the new one may cost.
countryboysteve 3xs as much .
I can't imagine working on this type of truck/engine..EVER..but still found this amazing to watch. So question, if county/city maintenance guys bothered to pressure wash this engine and frame, etc at least once at the end of every plow season to get all the salt off would greatly extend the life of this vehicle..and made your job easier too.
The wizard Wes strikes again, top job bud I’m impressed as usual.
Regards Alan.
That was a rollercoaster of emotions.
Great video series Wes! Great fight too, and overcoming all the corroded components allowing you to win like a BOSS. Much respect for your perseverance and drive to do the "right thing" 5 stars bud.
Work safe, stay warm
Doug@ the "ranch"
Thanks!
you're a real mechanic Wes. nothing's worse than someone bringing you some old rusty truck that nobody has greased for 6 years to work on and then telling you 'we really don't want to spend a lot of money on it'. yet the same people will buy a new $450,000 road grader every 2 years because 'you gotta have new equipment'. it's the same story here.
Super job. Not only this video. Have seen 20 of yours videos and all have been good.👍👍👍👍👍
I had the exact same problem on a DT one time, and nothing was cracked, the coolant was leaking from a hole the bolt or stud went into. Almost drove me crazy. Your the first I've ever heard that heard that had the same problem.
Oil pump will be fine, even warn. The issue was no prime. Happens to everyone at one time or another. Wrenching can be an art as much as a science. Kudos to you for being honest when issues arise. That is what really helps all of us learn. Good video.
Bravo! I think you made the best and most economical choice on the timing cover. On tech writing estimates, I usually do my most exact, then add 20% just in case. If things go well the client is happy to be charged a sub-estimate final. If not, the lebensraum usually allows an on-estimate outcome. And... Wow! That work is not only physically demanding but seemingly treacherous as to just what might turn up within all the innards of the mystery components. You must have had a few days of crooked-spine syndrome after working in the gap. And then there's previous "service" legacy - a time capsule that might be home to venomous creatures, so to speak. Such bravery in the face of those complex behemoths is most commendable. Your easy going, explanatory and competent manner makes the videos a pleasure to watch, especially with the good lighting and revealing close-ups. A patient, conscientious temperament seems essential for dealing with all the possible unknowns. . . or a future of hypertension would ensue, accelerated, with added expenses for hurled tools. Thanks for the additional efforts made to document and disseminate your entertaining, and often awe-inducing, endeavors.
Well done for not chucking a spanner😎
I did my apprenticeship 40 yrs ago on international truck and farm equipment,
I see they haven’t improved much.
PS
Don’t be shy using the silicone on them,
They need it when the factory finish is to International standard 😎👍
Well the service manual tells you to use it, which is crazy!
I hope younger vehicle Technicians watch you and learn .I’m retired now but can remember sleepless nights wondering about that 1 little error you might have made . Good luck
I always prime pumps prior to installing now. to avoid what you experienced.
the pesky pumps in tractors buried and tangled with steel lines is never fun to do twice!
ShnitzlHaus These type engines , whether cat or IH depending on mileage and or wear if they sit for a length of time the primary low pressure oil pump can lose it's prime , not fun in a Ford chassis . Like you say put the vasaline to it.
JB Weld works wonders!
I have to admit that occurred to me also. Not the most professional way of going about it, but it does the job if you're careful with it.
No, it doesn’t.
Too much work to risk .
Those covers seem to have a lot of problems, I personally would make the customer buy a brand new one 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
How much money do you estimate total repair would be
This is a great discussion about how this stuff really goes and the risks involved in the decisions necessary. It’s easy to believe that you really do care about this job and your customer. Well done, sir!
Jeez Wes, I bet you were glad to get that truck out of your shop, that fuel injection system seems really complicated compared to 6 litre Cummins motor. But I salute you sir you cracked it in the end, your perseverance knows no bounds, really interesting video. When it wouldn't start initially i felt your pain brother. Best wishes from Manchester UK.
Hi Wes, I never worked on one of them engines in my life, but, if all else fails, try priming the oil system via the oil pressure switch or gauge plug, maybe make a fitting from an old switch and use an old grease gun to "charge" the oilways with oil.. just an Idea here.. back in the old days on PINTO race engines I built, i could use a correct sized hex bar that fitted the oil pump with the distributor out, put the hex bar in a drill so it spun the oil pump to pressure up the engine, checking the oil flow on the OHC lifters.. when it sprayed out the little oil flow holes you knew it had a pressurised system.. Just saying..love your detailed videos mate.. (ian) - UK
Hi Wes, better the devil you know, having the second hand one helped favour the original one I would surmise; always a balance in justifying new parts for an older vehicle, and customer cost expectation.
If they consider writing the old truck off, then you lose future work on that single vehicle.
Great job, and technical information. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve seen the same scratches in other international engines where a bur was on the gear face and they didn’t bother to de bur it before pressing it on the cam. Nice 👍
If it galls surely it won't slip lol.
The Coolant additive topic for Diesel's with wet cylinder's thru me for a loop the first time I heard about it. Once I understood the topic and why it is important it makes perfect sense and is one of those topics where it won't be a problem until it is and once it is a problem it is a massive problem!
26:40 I found that cleaning is indeed therapeutic when you aren't sure which way to turn when a project goes south. I've had BMW clutch jobs and cylinder heads go south on me and when I am so frustrated I am about the throw my 24" all-16ths, I stop, wash my hands off a bit, grab a clean rag, and begin slowly and methodically wiping down my tools and putting them all away. Then, sweeping the floor, putting things away. Usually by the time that I am done, my brain has settled enough to where I can think more clearly and I have given myself time to rationalize what is going on and gain some perspective. So, you're not alone on the cleaning regiment.
pickup a tube of StayLube 3331 moly graphite assembly lube... it is not like the lucas assembly lube.. its thick and will stay for weeks in place. i have always put some in the oil pump gears prior to assembly.. in snout mount pumps.. i put some behind the gears/rotors in the housing so there is no rotor housing rubbing.. i also have had to crank engines with the switch in OFF position.. and the OIL FILTER OFF.. so the pump has NO RESTRICTION to pulling oil pump and priming.. as soon as i get oil out the filter.. i screw the filter on and continue cranking for at least 10 seconds. but usually if i assembled the complete engine with stay lube assembly lube on the cam, rod and main bearings.. i don't want to wash it off with oil flow.
i would have probably painted the corroded water pump molded gasket groove with some permatex number 1 .. hardening type like you use for freeze plugs.. just a thin coating perhaps smoothed out with a sanded round piece of wood.. so you add to the bottom and sides just slightly..
on molded round insert in a groove seals.. i have used a permatex product.. Flange dressing permatex number 85420.. its actually hylomar in the squeeze tube.. its good for 500F.. does not harden ever, i am talking decades.. and does not wash out with fuels, oils or coolants..
i don't know if you do valve jobs. as in actually having the valve springs off and the valves out of the heads.. i use the 3331 on the valve stem.. working it part way in and out till it slides so smooth.. then i push it all the way thru.. put a little dab on the top of the valve guide and push the seal down.. leaving a small reservoir of the moly graphite assembly lube for later.. i rarely do diesel engines.. most are gasoline engines. the oil systems are similar in either..
this is the sealed power T40 engine oil priming kit.. www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-t40/overview/ you can create your own.. using a garden hand pump sprayer. with the understanding that it won't last forever as the engine oil will effect the check valves in the pump end.. so you will need a new 15 to 20 buck sprayer every few years.. get a second one to pump gear oil in with.. get a third one to pump ATF up thru the bottom pan fill on newer transmissions.. the T40 and others plug into the oil galley between the pump and the oil filter inlet so it back fills/primes the pump..
i have had a few hard to prime engines... crank snout oil pumps.. i have used my hand vacuum pump with a tapered nozzle or hoses stuffed into the oil filter mount where the oil comes out. this creates suction and pulls oil all the way up from the pan.. thru the pump gears and into your hand vacuum pump.. screw the filter on quick and crank the engine.. want to see my current project engine install ... imgur.com/a/WqJfZEj
Yes . . . . cleaning the work area and putting tools away resets the thinking process . . . . :) good job Wes . . . Rog
There is no way I would the salvage yard cover. That is junk in my book. I would tell the customer that a new cover is the proper way to do it but I can try to weld the original cover with no guarantees. I would have been a chicken too. I'm sure I would have taken it apart to recheck that oil pump as well. Nice repair Wes. Well done.
Yep. That's pretty much how the conversation went! They will take the cover back, but they did not have another to give me.
I worked maintenance at a plastics plant. You know the type more temp employees than company employees. Had a shaft break on a 880 ton press. They called the "tech" in to help with the repair being their "maintenance supervisor" knew very little about anything and especially knew nothing of repairing machines. Anyway they tried to assemble the shaft in the machine and instead of using the machine to push the shaft in (was supported by 2 opposing tapered roller bearings) they decided a 130lb guy could push this 400+ pound shaft into where its goes, Heat the outside bearing to get it on and get the nut on to preload the bearings. We had to take a 10 pound sledge and hammer it back off to do it my way.
I'm by no means a mechanic, but from what you've explained I would go with new part. Yes, I know it is going to be a lot of $$$$.$$ but big trucks cost big money!!!!!
Stopped at 8:40, to address those grooves for sealing, I use Rite Stuff and it always works when that clean and use sparingly as you don't want it to find places it shouldn't be. On the water pump surface, I would mix some marine tex to that area and then sand smooth so it doesn't cavitate possibly .... your call, and if this is work that has to be warranted, He buys new period. I do some good ol' boy stuff but not customer projects. On with video....
Wes, don't beat on yourself. the DT466 engines are fairly bullet proof. I never use lithium grease in engines as I have seen it plug oil screens tight. I would use wheel bearing grease before that. Once I had to find a oil galley plug and pull it and put a circulating pump for oil and suck it from pan to engine entry point and just pump it full till the magic happens. If your gut says no, just go with it and add it to the bill as there is no time limit on being right. I have watched enough of your work to be very confident in your work. Your good and being gray haired at thirty serves no purpose LOL.
The Right Stuff is awesome. I use it when needed.
Live and learn. Wow 😯 I’ve done projects like these and come to the conclusion to let the dealer ship work on them. There is a lot of work out there that a person doesn’t have to take on jobs like this.
lotta times a dry oil pump will prime easier if you unscrew the oil filter to let the air out of the pressure side
I'd say the longer pan bolts explains the damage to the timing plate casting. Nice work Wes and great to see you overcome the problem.
I agree.
New cover is the way to go , that is a tough job and you dont want to have do it twice . Good job you got her done !
I guess the first option would always be get the new parts but it depends on the customer and their usage of the vehicle. If they plan to scrap the vehicle in the next year or two and they only use it intermittently the choice would be different to if they were driving across the country on a daily basis. It is always a toss of the coin. Customers always want the cheaper option but as a mechanic you need to be careful that you don't end up with the motto "We do it right because we do it twice".
Whoever worked on the cover that you got from the scrap yard was a better mechanic than you think because they were obviously very pedantic with their torque settings of the bolts. Unfortunately the torque specs they used were "Tighten everything until it strips then back it off half a turn" :)
Love your work Wes. Cheers from down under.
Well stay tuned. I may have screwed this one up...
@@WatchWesWork I highly doubt that .... you're tha man.
The most valuable tool we have is our own sub conscious mind, but it can't deliver the goods while we are overriding it by engaging in fierce conscious mind thought. This is why walking away for a while, even a day, often delivers better results than we can achieve by remaining engaged. Walking away give the sub conscious time to examine what it has seen and organize that information, THEN inject it into the conscious mind, whereupon we yell OH, I just REALIZED.........!
There is nothing more frustrating than doing a huge body of work and discovering there is still something wrong. Now we have to do another huge pile of work without even knowing what the problem is. A huge body of work knowing exactly what is wrong is easy by comparison.
Wireguy you are "spot on" with your assessment of the situation. Trouble is line mechanics don't always have time on their side. (mechanic 42 years)
Worth watching just for the tip about the wet sleeves and coolant. Thanks for sharing, Charles
I believe your heading the right in the right direction!
I learn so much from wes's videos he does an excellent job of explaining what is going on.
Taking out the pressure sensor for the heui and squuzing a bottle of oil in and backfeeding it to the oil pump will make getting the air out and the pressure up easier to fire the injectors. I too have had issues with them priming in the past.
Plastic steel. We used it on the 268A GM on the USCG Cutter McCulloch's #3 generator to repair pitting on the block cylinder walls to seal the cylinder liners. It work for hundreds of hours.
That was a really really rough project but you did a really great job and I think you showed caution and due diligence and not wanting to lunch the motor and it's evident from that other timing cover that there's a lot of careless mechanics out there and you're not one of them so congratulations
Well I'm getting there...
I work on these engines all the time and I’m a real chicken re using damaged parts especially on something so difficult and time consuming especially if you have to do at your cost. I hate redoing stuff. It’s worth the expense to know it won’t leak.
Hey Wes just recently found your channel. Really enjoy your your videos. You really explain the repairs thoroughly.
Seeing you put the cam gear and accessory drive gears on brings back a lot of memories. Work for Cummins Eng. building M11/L10. Did a lot of cams and accessory drive gears.
Interesting. These are pretty easy. The overhead cam engines get kind of involved.
I use to work for international so I can assure you that not priming the oil pump was the no start problem. I always used white assembly grease to pack the pump seamed to always work for me
I would just use the threads from the old cover on the new one. Easy as that :D
let me just unbolt the threads real quick XD
Was holding my breath when starting 😦😦 phew can breath again. Excellent job and what a honest job. Thanks for sharing
You have made a wise choice, at the start you mentioned the customer was not flush with cash
I’m sure another 15 years of life will come from that timing cover
I hope so!