Sweet 1984 Ford F-800 - No Headlights, Air Leaks, Bad Brake Valve.
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- This super clean 1984 F-800 has no headlights and a few other small issues. Let's see if we can get it fixed up. Then we'll take this old girl for a ride!
What an ol sweetheart!
Hell yeah peg leg
"They hardly ever drive it in the winter" -- now you know why it's in such good condition!
Right!
It is a Grain hauler so no need to drive past November
@@KPearce57 I'm not too sure about that. The last couple years, there have been guys taking corn out of the fields in March. 😥
and probably mostly on dirt roads that dont get salted.
Wes it doesn't matter what method is used 25% will like it and the other 75% will call you an idiot. Well done.
you're being quite generous...
Yep, If you are not pissing off some armchair expert (AKA local village idiot/fool), you're not doing something right!
Exactly what really matters is what you yourself thinks of it.
I am not sure what I am here on this channel more for. Your adroit mechanical abilities or your witty one-liners. Keep the videos coming.
Nathan Berg I come for the jokes and the happy dog.
i just like his calmness while repairing stuff
@@4020jc Me too, I understand the stuff when someone else is doing it, but I'm too emotional to diagnose it myself. I have preferences and if they don't work out, I'm too involved to see what I'm looking at. Good job Wes.
He’s got a way with words, like his dog, looks like my daughters mutt , Toby. He is a terrier mixed with something however he’s coloration is identical to our Toby
Maginot Line reference..very impressive...anybody who spouts that foible of history is a ok with me
The mice are falling like the French
Oh Mon dieu
Confused - why do people comment for you not wearing gloves. I did not know they were a requirement to get things working. Keep up the great vids.
Mainly because they're morons, often, with chair-shaped asses.
It's probably because they work in an OSHA regulated environment. And yeah sometimes protection is a good idea.
Bone cancer. Mostly it's about the bone cancer.
The constant contact with corrosive fluids is one thing besides that even the most insignificant cut that you wouldn't think anything about can kill you, it's called septasceima or sepsis, I had a mechanic friend who died becaise of a small seemingly minor cut infected his blood stream, he went into complete organ failure after he arrived at the hospital and couldn't be saved, endocarditis occurs if those germs reach the heart, I knew an older man who didn't feel quite right at work so he drove home, the next thing he knew he was in intensive care, he had cut himself trimming some bushes and thought nothing of it, be careful out there.
A Shop Cat May be a good addition to the Mouse Maginot Line. You can call it Caterpillar, or CAT for short.
Unless she's like our cat. She likes to bring mice inside for playing, and occsionally loses them when they crawl under the couch...
You don't have a face shield, steel toes, a safety vest and a flag man. I'm surprised you survived the video.
No hard hat either. Lol
Don't forget the hearing protection and self contained breathing apparatus.
tsk tsk
@@donniebrown2896 What about a high viz jacket !
I've no recollection of actually commenting on the usage of Pppe ,but since I to was one not to always where the proper gloves when I worked with gas and oil ,gasket gunk and silicone etc...plumbers glue ,and drywall mud is so so hard on the skin ,soaking into the body like after all we are like a spunge .,and by the time in was 25ish I realized that this was why I could use the palms of my hands to sand off and smooth down the final stages of a drywall job. More so cause gloves ,other than construction grade type weren't always convienent to use or go get, but they also didn't have these awesome mechanics gloves like they have today, .
Well I mean my hands were cracked and sore opened wounds that's how bad my hands were from chemicals, and after I made the connection as to why, my hands are now for the last 25ish years been just regular rough man's hands,you won't see me pumping gas without gloves on. And with that being said,I'm sure the guys commenting on Wes's post ,and others with similar RUclips channels are concerned about. Especially with all of the extra agents in gas and oil now adays... But go ahead,don't wear gloves,or safety gear when required, and joke around about guys like me who do ,also won't catch me without my safety glasses ,cause now I have prescription glasses. You only get one set of eyes.🤓 So also I love watching Wes work,and I wouldn't want him to get hurt.
So there.😊
Tootsie rolls work well for mouse trap bait, you just chew the piece till it's soft and put it on the trap trigger, it can be used over quite a few times, the down side is re-chewing it.
that made me laugh-out-loud!!!
🤣🤣🤣
I have had success with cheese (almost any kind will work) and peanut butter. The aroma gets them every time. However Wes should consider getting a cat. The mice will stay away and he won't have to put the traps out.
I really enjoy watching Wes work and talk while doing it, what a smart young man.
rt 6610 is a direct drive 10 speed rated at 660 lb ft of toque. used mostly in medium duty trucks with a low hp motor. much smaller physically than a std 10 speed in most road tractors. the last repair harness i got for a ford head light switch had all the same color wires coming out of it. nice clean old ford.......would look good in my collection!
I was really expecting it to be a 5 speed Spicer synchro with a 2 speed axle. This RT6610 is a neat trans. I think it has the closest ratios of any trans I've seen in a truck. It's a workout to shift!
Here in my corner of Pennsylvania my farmer customers refer to their 1980's vintage trucks as their NEW ones. My last farmer customer's "OLD" truck is the 1947 Ford F-8 that I just put a new clutch in.
Heh. When I was younger we worked on a lot of 1970s Chevy gas powered grain trucks. 5 speeds with 2 speed axles and the famous "short 4th" shift pattern. My dad put a lot of clutches in those trucks. Constant ignition and carb issues from sitting around all the time.
It doesn't matter how you equip the Maginot Line, they always come in through the Ardennes
I do not encourage the use of safety equipment - I think we should take the labels off everything and let natural selection do the rest.
Word!
It's a absolute pleasure to watch you work Wes, your explanation of things is fantastic and your uncanny ability to see the common sense approach to fixing things. Your a true mechanical marvel Wes, and i love your work brother. Take care and thankyou for sharing your adventures with the world mate.
Love your attitude Wes. The haters will hate no matter what you do.
Point them out and ignore them with a chuckle and a good one liner.
Thanks for sharing
I'm an electrician, I use thousands of crimps a year. I twist the strands, it keeps them neat so they insert into the crimp better. There is no reason why you can't do that.
I'm an electrician too, it depend on the type of wire, gauge and crimp you use. I'm not familiar with the AWG system, so I will speak in mm2 (there's conversion charts on the net, in case someone need them). Below 4mm2, with copper strands, twisting doesn't matter, it will crimp the same, but there's two exceptions: some reinforced wires for automatic recall reels (like these: www.sepem-permanent.com/images/produits/39891436253558enrouleur.jpg ) will rarely tolerate twisting and can slip easily out of crimps (I've been there and it get really ugly when the reel flash because of a bad crimp).
the other exception is for double end connectors, like these: www.jonction-et-derivation-electriques.fr/WebRoot/ce_fr2/Shops/294626/4E98/05C4/B485/AA6A/B85A/C0A8/8007/0E46/JTUO-embout-de-cablage-double-preisole-de2x0.50-a-2x16-JEDE-distribution.png , if you twist the two bundles of strands together, the "central" bundle will slip out, at one time or another, if you intertwine the two cable strands before twisting, it will be too big to fit inside the crimp (you can pick the bigger crimp to fit right in, but there's a chance the springloaded or bolted contact won't accept it, because it's too big.)
After 4mm2, well, it will be too big to fit in the crimps most of the time.
Of course, this is from personal experience, with the same crimp manufacturer. Other manufacturers may have more clearance inside the crimps holes, same with cables, the wire standard you use and crimping tools. All in all, it comes to individual experience and preferences.
I worked in the electronics field for over 50 years in various forms and I found one thing that would always seem to rear it's ugly head and bite me. The wires I did not twist would pull out of many crimp connectors because they were just straight in. If I gave them a slight twist I rarely had one come out as the wire had the "benefit" of the others helping hold it in place. Like everything else in this world, you're going to get more opinions than there are people, it seems. My best advice is simple, you do what works best for you and is within the electrical codes for the item you are working on.
It is different: i work as a railway signaling tech: in track circuit (which in Sweden is DC) : twisting the strands is forbidden because it risks breaking the strands and it also destroys the positive properties of the crimp and the crimp tool. The track circuit cable is 25 square mm and because it needs to be flexible the strands is relative thin.
@@TheStefanskoglund1, like I said, you follow the code of the job.
I generally find people who tell you how you shouldn't do something when repairing wiring, have never been stuck in a footwell trying to repair wiring.
Like many of us, you've found what works best for you and stuck with it.
Yeah, and there's no one right answer. Different applications warrant different tools.
these videos are like a Zen to me. awesome therapy. Keep making them. Entertainment and Learning, appreciate you comments and Humor.
Wes, I have to admit I love your diagnostic work. It reminds me of my job doing support for computers when I have a problem I have to diagnostic to find the fix. You have a talent for explaining what you are doing and what you think is the problem. Keep up with the videos and I look forward to more.
The early 4 stroke Detroits I've been around were pretty good engines but I've been told they're really hard to get parts for now. I've always twisted my stranded wire and never worried about internet electricians lol. I do miss the interiors of the older Ford's.
I agree. I’ve always twisted mine too since I crimped my first but splice. And I’ve got a complete 8.2 motor and Tranny sitting as parked ran five years ago. Truck Roadway Complete cab over rust bucket Ford Pretty Orange pain lt with a title ready to load on someone’s roll bacK. Located N TX
"A Maginotline of mousetraps" Whaaaaahahahaha🤣 ... Wes you're the best! ... it was a pleasure to Watch you Work.👌
The 1 liners ARE great, don't change. As a former Ford Dealer tech I have watched this one and the F700 episodes more than once and enjoyed both, there's that common sense kicking in again!!
Nice electrical Diagnosis, & Cool old School F-800 F0RD.Thanks for sharing.
Great video, those headlights which is haven't changed, since at least the sixties. I restored a 65 Mustang that had the same exact headlight switch.
My 1995 F-250 uses the same switch as well. I think in 99 they went to a rotary switch in the trucks.
is far - or short - i know by GM they changed between 84-88 to a modern switch on cars
@@WatchWesWork Did Ford ever go to the headlight switch on the turn signal stalk on the large trucks?
I used to drive a line truck with a boom and auger. It had the same transmission. Nobody else would drive it because it wasn’t synchronized. I absolutely LOVED it…. Smooth as silk…..
My first pickup was a 1981 F250. Great truck. I have a friend who owned a Single axle same as this one maybe same engine. Brings back memories. Thanks Wes
I enjoyed the video. My grandpa John Klancke actually invented the block and tank heaters. It was interesting to see a video where they are actually still used.
When used properly crimp connectors work fine. The problem is that most people don't use them right.
I like solder and shrink tubing.
Only way to go
Whoa!, That switch was gruesome. Great job Wes.
Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
"the Maginot line of mouse traps", love it!
That is indeed a great looking old truck. Rare to see one in that condition. The 8.2 was not much of an engine but still much better than the gas engines available then. I would love to find another truck like that one. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Youre doing it just right on those pigtails! NEVER solder on a wire of a machine that will vibrate in operation (like a car, truck...)! I work in a motorsports company, we always crimp! Always! Why? Solder makes wires stiff and they will break later!
BTW: Multiple Wires in a crimp is not a problem at all. Just make sure you use the correct cable shoes/buck connectors/eyelets for the correct wire (AWG). Infact we "fill up" eyelets ( which are too big for a specific wire ) with additional wire strains and then crimp them.
Giving the wire a light twist prior to crimping makes no difference at all.
As a motorsport engineer Im safe to say: Youve done an excellent repair job on those wires!
I remember replacing a Ford light switch. My comments were a lot stronger. Great video
It's not a bad job...
I learned to use un-synchronized transmission when I was in the army back in the mid-90's. Lots of fun equipment had those transmissions. Great video as always. Greetings from Thor in Norway.
If the mechanic thing doesn’t work out, there’s always comedy. Thanks for the entertainment
Nice job, gotta love the power ranger, I've taught guys who thought they were going to double clutch it and shift the way they wanted, they try and try but all came to realize it shifts the way it shifts and the clutch is for getting it moving
I think you're right on the money with the crimp connectors... and the type of crimpers. I had some volunteers on our 1922 Birney streetcar using the cheap "squeeze" type of crimpers where there is no tab pushing into the back of the connector. I checked their work and when I tugged on the wire, it fell out! And this is a 600VDC system where loose wires arc like crazy and start fires. Love your videos.
Yeah you have to do the tug test!
When I drove a school bus we had many 8.2litre Detroit Diesel engines and never had any problems with them, and yes they were 4 cycle engines.
Good old air ride seats! I drove an early 2000’s F-650 Diesel boxtruck, automatic, only power steering. It was a tank! My new 2020 F-650 gasoline, is a dream (they removed the air ride seat, it’s the same cab as a 550).
Twisting the wire end, from what I was told years ago, the strands can cut the others when crimped. Hard not to resists too twist. Good video again, thanks
I always go with twisting, makes it easier to insert into the connector.
Wes, you are a top notch mechanic and I wouldn't pay any mind to negativity from the Keyboard mechanics out there. You do things how You want to. God Bless
Lots of guys are asking me about the uninsulated terminal kit I use. I'm pretty sure the terminals are made by Molex and I bought them from McMaster Carr. But, they don't seem to offer the assortment anymore, but you can get the terminals from them. I think it's the same kit as this one on Amazon. amzn.to/2LB4jjZ
@Dave Iauco It just depends. For quick single wire repairs, it's hard to beat the shrink type insulated butt connectors. For a big wad of wires like this I like the uninsulated with shrink tube. Soldering is good too, but tough to do well in cramped spaces like under a dash.
Agree. Mostly the repair wires are too short so longer
are easier to re-solder. Back in the 80's we had plenty
of malfunctioning wirings from factory in new GM
crap as Caddy Buick and Ponziac cars. They had to be
rewired to our legalisation standards. It's just crap.
Set up an amazon shop with all the tools you use, so when we buy them, you get a kickback, and if we save your link, you get a kickback on all the normal stuff we buy from amazon
Amazon owner Jeff Bezos is a tax dodger.
Not recommendable.
@Dave Iauco A dodger. He takes all the
profit and gives some sort of participation
aka stock papers upon his net profit to he's exmlpoyees. The employees pay all the
taxes counted by this gross profit and he keeps all the gross profit in hos pocket.
Better you sell local and keep and use yr
profits localy = wealthiness.
I worked at Barber Ford now called Ventura Ford . Working on Commission with a minimum pay as well . Oxnard Ca is nearby and there were many of these farm trucks being used. ( citrus and salt air and chemicals would destroy everything). If only U tube were around back them my life would have been better. I enjoy your video very much.
Great older truck that's been well cared for it's entire life. Strong simple
driveline ensures uncomplicated maintenance at minimal cost for generations. It's this simplicity that requires you to use methodology, learnt and taught skills, and common sense to resolve issues. It also brings me out of the office into the workshop to watch confused apprentices presented with a repair that they cannot plug a computer into, and the old school mechanics, including myself, sitting back waiting for someone to approach and ask for help !!. Block heaters in Australia are restricted to emergency service heavy vehicles where operating temperatures at startup are a necessity. This optional engine is also fitted with an external oil pump that continuously circulates oil ensures until disconnection from the external power source. Keep the old school vids rolling in Wes 👍👍🇭🇲.
Interesting. Most engines in my area have block heaters. We'd never get them going without them!
@@WatchWesWork An example why we don't need block heaters.... 10:48 Central Australian time. Current outside temperature 49°c or 120 °f !! 👍👍🇭🇲
The reason more official destinations don't like double lines into crimps is because it's a mechanical advantage on the wire side to get loose, since the crimping isn't going on one wire. If you twist your wires and make sure you really crimp the giggles out of the line it's ok. Alternatively, if you're afraid it gets loose, you just get one of those all sides crimpers (buy once cry once type deal). Those put full force from all sides. Combine that with the mil-spec glue type shrink tube you use, and that's never coming loose. But yeah, in aviation applications, you might axed if you do that. They want everything prim and proper, and i can get behind why.
Banging gears music to my ears.
Great job wes use hand barrier cream mate I'm like you hate gloves I like to feel what I'm doing 👍👍👌
I'll have to check it out!
Watch Wes Work just a cream you put on your hands before work and then wash it off when finished good stuff 👍
Love your videos! You’re level and realistic the way most of us are. I started soldering my connections after intermittent issues with crimped wires coming loose. I really like the two sizes of shrink wrap to ensure good contact. I’ll be stealing that idea if I’m ever in that position!
At 1:39 there was an image of the heater air box assembly while you were describing the engine. The 3 plug going the fan motor speed control resistor appeared to need repair. The one in my 1980 f250 4x4 actually caught fire and filled the cab with black electrical smoke. I managed to pull over, open the hood and save my truck but what an experience for a rookie driver. I learned there's a great amount of amperage going through those wires the hard way. Great videos God bless.
During the test drive I noticed the Eri Lynn sign, I live in Moline and I have a bar in my garage/workshop so there's a beer with your name on it anytime you're in the quads. Love your vids man.
Those 2 size but connectors are nice. I need to get some. I’ve been using the larger size and on the single wire side I strip off twice as much wire I need and fold it over so you have a double thick single wire to crimp.
It's great to see moderate-to-high core charges on parts like this brake valve -- encourages things getting repaired instead of sent the scrap/waste stream. Would be nice if that rebuild kit was more available though.
Those brake valve assemblies are best to be replaced with a rebuilt one and the system is set up really for the best economic sense. Now if a fellow has a spare valve and wants to order a rebuild kit in order to have one on the shelf so to speak and can send his valve in to be rebuilt or wants to have extra kits to be able to rebuild the kits in house, that would make sense. Generally these valves are pretty common items that the truck supply houses and parts places have readily available
Great video Wess . Some one sure has taken good care that old girl. Thanks for sharing.
👍👌👏 Very well done, Sir!
I have never seen those unisolated two side crimp thingis in Germany. But I definitely will try to get some! Thanks for the tip.
Also thanks a lot for making taping editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health.
I used to own, drive and repair these Fords 700s, 800s, & 8000s. With Cat3208 , 7.8 diesels, 391, 370 & 429s. All 5&2 speeds. Good ol Trucks. Used in Oilfield. Brings back memories. Very reliable and tough. Its a shame Ford quit making them.
nice channel. Glad to be here. Love this genre. Mustie, Eric of SMA, Ivan of PHD, very nice.
Watching you grab gears was pretty awesome. Reminds me of the many times running our L8000. Thanks for the content!
We had a 78 in that series as a medium duty wrecker bought new resold 1980. And up in service until. 1999. Clean truck but had cracks and Holmes boom fatigued so they put it in storage and use it parades and events..tuff truck
Everything looks so familiar to me just like the 81 f100 even down to the tan interior man I wish my door cards were in as good of shape as those
Got to be a great feeling to make it right again, thanks; catching up on videos.
Nice job Wes. You probably have used this trick before but if you have to replace a long wire or tube that runs through inaccessible places secure the end of the new wire of tube to the one that is to be replaced and pull the new one through by pulling on the old one. Clips and ties may hinder the process but it usually saves some time. Good luck...
Shifting without clutch is a must when clutch breaks and you still have 100 miles to the shop.
For catching mice back in the day on my dad's farm, we'd use a 5 gallon bucket. Fill it about half full of water, put a ring of peanut butter around the inside a few inches down from the top and leave a board or something else for a ramp up the side. You won't believe how many mice you will catch that way.
Just a nice old truck, Nice to see one so well taken care of and not all hacked up.
I remember the grain truck I drove most of the time as a kid. You could spit between your feet because there was no floor. My seat pad was a square floatation pad out of the boat, but it saved me from the springs!
Agree on the peanut butter supply , as for working out doors .....only if you absolutely have to .Can't do good work with frozen fingers and shivering .
Yeah. I agree!
That extra air knob on the gear stick is for the "countershaft brake". I saw the brake unit on the gearbox when you were looking for the manufacturers plate on the box. It is a simple air piston inside the PTO cover right next to the manufacturers plate.
When you press the button on the stick the piston rubs on the countershaft to slow the countershaft and clutch down so that you can engage a gear from neutral. (which you can usually do anyway!)
Thanks for the explanation
No its not. It has a 2 speed rear axle. It a splitter gear operates solenoid on axle.
Sweet old Ford. I drove an L9000 tractor for years. That other air switch is your cutch or trans brake, before they put them on the bottom of the clutch travel. Todd the retired trucker.
Learn something new everyday-when learning to get my CDL/DOT we were told/taught that you cant “bandaid” air lines and jt was a huge no-no, pretty cool they found a way to fix/repair the air hoses this way
That's only the service lines to the trailer. They cannot have splices. The rest of the system is fine.
@@WatchWesWork Gotcha-awesome!!
An excellent tutorial on crimping! I noticed that you have a proper crimping tool. Using the crappy 'multi-stripper' tools for crimping is miserable. Klein and others make good, dedicated crimping tools and they are so much better. You pointed out which side to put the seam on, and that is critical.
As for the electrician who told you not to twist the wires - the fact of the matter is that the wires are already twisted in the insulation to begin with. When you strip off the end the wires can come untwisted. If you gently twist them you are just returning them to factory form. Good job. If, however, you twist them tighter than factory form then you are increasing the diameter of the wire some small amount, and that can cause problems getting it into the connector for the crimp. You have to twist it pretty darned tight to cause problems, normally. In a pinch, if I have a connection that was in a screw terminal or is otherwise mangled but I don't have room to cut it shorter for clean wire, I use my linesman's pliers to twist and pull the strands as if you were brushing your daughter's ponytail to get it to lay nicely. It's hard to describe, really. You have the handles of the pliers in line with the wire. Gently squeeze, pull, and twist.
In the 80's my uncle imported one of these sans engine and gear box, and re-fitted those with Mercedes parts from a L911 5.something fire truck. We sold it in the late 90's to a French guy who imported it back to US, i think...Michigan, unsure, been a while. Solid truck, i half learnt to drive on that thing, good memories. I've been toying with the idea of retracing the steps. :))
Wow. I can't believe it would be worth importing one of these trucks!
I always twist the wire too. It seems like any time that I don't, the butt connectors won't go over them without having a few strands hanging out the back. My little part time shop is also surrounded by fields. Rodents used to be an issue for me too. I tried every kind of trap available. Then, one day, I found a fool proof solution. My "shop cats" are on duty 24-7-365! I got them as kittens, but, as they grew, the rodent problem ended. They now have a loyal following of customers that stop by just to visit "the Kittiots", even if they don't need work done. I haven't had a rodent in my shop for 5 years!
Well I have a worthless hunting dog. He gets the odd mouse here and there.
Push to connect fittings have been in use for 30 plus years, I know cause I worked and tested a whole range parts at the plant where they were made. Really enjoy your vids please keep them coming, atb from England
Hello Wes, Have you tried the five gallon bucket mouse trap? The beauty is you don't have to reset it and they just keep coming. If your shop is not heated mix a little anti freeze in the water on the bottom (deep enough to drown them) of the bucket. Run a wire through a 20 oz pop bottle along the long axis with a twist on either side of it to center it. Smear the peanut butter on the bottle add a couple of sticks for ramps up to the top at the ends of the wire and voila mouse killer. They run up jump on the bait and it spins dropping them in the drink. Dead ones don't seem to phase the new ones running up. A few of these around the shop and you will thin the population considerable and like I said you don't need to do much beyond replace the peanut butter once in a while and dump the carcasses. Oh and remember to take the label off the bottle. A hot wire makes a quick hole in the cap and on the bottom to run the wire through. Take care. Doug
No. I prefer the instant justice of the spring loaded trap.
Thanks nice to see a mechanic that enjoys his work and even does some extra preventative maintenance and nice wiring job really like your 2 into 1 wire splice
Man you shift that thing like a champ, so smooth! I've owned standard vehicle for ever but id be lost with that gear reduction thing lol
I had an 8.2 Detroit in an 83 f-8, it was a true gutless wonder but that s.o.b. would crank over in the coldest weather not even plugged in and it indeed was easy on fuel, it was a reliable ol bird to say the least.
What a sweetheart this old Ford is just have to love it @Watch Wes Work
Keep killing those mice. Each dead one will make a huge difference in the long run. Thanks for the videos
I loved your Maginot Line of mousetraps description. I catch mice all year long here in Stillman Valley, but definitely more when the weather turns cold.
8:2 make great boat anchor. Pain in rear end to set rack. Wiring under size.
Hi Wes. Another excellent video.
I very appreciate the way you describe WHAT you're doing, and WHY. I also never cease to be amazed at how many of your 'older' vehicles you (and e.g. Bus Grease Monkey) are EASILY able to get parts for.
I have no idea what US manufacturers policies are for parts availability, but here in the UK, sometimes you're lucky if you can get parts for even an 8yr old vehicle. Unless of course it's from an independent supplier and might then be NOS (New Old Stock).
You also seem very 'aligned' with the UK with your parts and components terminology which (I like, and) makes it seem like our respective teachers were 'old school'.
Regards Mark in the UK
This headlight switch was used in every Ford vehicle from the early 1960s to around 1998. So they made many millions of them. That was an aftermarket part, but made in USA and reasonably priced. Some things are really hard to get parts for. Especially industrial equipment.
Cool super clean old Ford! I really like those! I like your wiring techniques, I find the more online videos I watched, people like yourself that seem to do respectable good work, often have similar procedures to things I have figured out myself through years of testing.
Sometimes we all arrive at the same conclusion in the end. But It is strange when that happens.
If its an Eaton-Fuller Roadranger, its synchromeshed. The first one I ran was in a 1974 Diamond Reo with a 671 DD backed with a 13 speed triple low-hole. An absolute blast to drive as long as you had ear plugs! Great vids, Wes.
You are correct Wes .. twisting the strands will not harm anything. I have been in electronics for over 25 years and just recently learned in an advanced PCB design class (in an effort to learn how to minimize EMI) that energy does not travel inside the conductor but around it (and yes, even DC). Even on a PCB the energy does not travel inside the copper traces but around them.
clean wiring job, love uninsulated terminals
The other air switch on the shifter is a transmission brake for getting it to go into gear easier. My friend's old Ford 800 grain truck has one too. Stupid thing broke a couple years ago and it was a nightmare finding another haha
Yep we have the exact same mouse trap set-up. Dedicated PB jar with sharpie written on top. The red labeled traps are the best. And 5 mice is a good start. I sealed up a house we moved into and over the course of a week caught 18 mice. Just got to keep resetting them, and I like to keep count of kills with a mark on each trap. You gotta find some way to have fun with it.
Wes I look forward to seeing your videos you always do a great job
Great job Wes, thanks for the joy ride.
I've always loved the sound of a detroit. I had 3 different trucks with the 60 series and 1 truck with a dd15. I miss them.
Another great job Wes ! You know how to fix most anything !
Omg what a Gorgeous old Ford that is in amazing Condition for the age wow what a find @Watch Wes Work
Great job ! I Liked,Shared,Added to playlists. All my best and looking forward to more.
At least here in the UK we are taught when making crimps not to twist the wires, the reasoning is that it increases the diameter slightly more than parallel strands, that means the cable isn’t completely compressed in the crimping process.
Just realized you were a fellow IL brother. Keep up the videos, love watching them!
Thanks for the ride! When I was younger I didn't appreciate the old trucks, now I realize how well built and easy(er) to service they are. I'd love a better lighting video about crimping wires. I couldn't see the crimpers or the joint in the ferrule when you were doing that. It looks like a slick and uncomplicated process.
Yeah. I could make whole video on wire crimping. It's a minefield. I probably own over a dozen crimping tools.
@@WatchWesWork That would be a fun video to watch!
i use those but conector for many year on are fleet trucks with the srink tubing with melting glue inside and there the best never had a come back and those ford headlight swith were very popular in the 70 and 80 and 90 they fail alot we always had a couple in stock.thanks for video always great
Damn you're good! I hate wearing frigging gloves to do pretty much anything unless it's winter.