A great, easy to follow, video. I wish you would have spent a little time on how to set the correct blade tension on various blade widths. Also, do you release the blade tension after each use? Thank you. Kevin
Thanks for watching Kevin! I do have a separate video showing my preferred method for tensioning the blade - ruclips.net/video/MIRyaWGa2dM/видео.html Do I actually do this? No. I find tension has little bearing on the accuracy of the cuts. This video shows what I mean in more detail - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html Always a good idea to release the tension while not using the saw! This will help prevent premature breakage
Thanks! When I make the effort to properly tension my blade this is how I do it - ruclips.net/video/MIRyaWGa2dM/видео.html Do I actually do this? No. Blade tension doesn’t really matter much when it comes to cutting straight. This video highlights that - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
That’s a great question! So when you are cutting curves all the guide bears should spin. When you are cutting straight technically only the thrust bearing should spin…but many folks deal with blade drift. If your blade is drifting the side bearings will spin as well(cause you are actually cutting a curve). This video explains and shows how to get rid of the drift problem- ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
Disagree might be too strong of word…you can get quality cuts with the gullet or body of the blade in the centre. It doesn’t make any difference. I tend to use blades wider than a 1/2” especially when cutting large sawmill sized logs. If you put the gullet of a 3/4” or wider blade in the centre of the wheel the back of the blade will be falling off the wheel. This leads to blade coming off when the cutting starts. Truth be told all this setup stuff is negligible anyway. As long as you use your bandsaw properly you will never get drift regardless of your setup. This video shows what I mean - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
This setup for the top and bottom wheels functions for crowned tyre bandsaws, the majority of home band saws are like this. However for the tiny minority of flat tyred band saws, the saw blade teeth should just over hang the tyre. For the guides you are spot on. It is probably that you have never had a bandsaw designed for flat tyres, I only know of one or two that were made by Inca a Swiss company.
Ethan, For a future video could you demonstrate the free flowing cutting you described? That sounds like an interesting technique and it would be nice to see it in application.
Like Kyle, I'm going to check my setup again.....
Never hurts to double check 👍 thanks for watching!
A great, easy to follow, video. I wish you would have spent a little time on how to set the correct blade tension on various blade widths. Also, do you release the blade tension after each use? Thank you. Kevin
Thanks for watching Kevin! I do have a separate video showing my preferred method for tensioning the blade - ruclips.net/video/MIRyaWGa2dM/видео.html
Do I actually do this? No. I find tension has little bearing on the accuracy of the cuts. This video shows what I mean in more detail - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
Always a good idea to release the tension while not using the saw! This will help prevent premature breakage
Great video. Would like to know your opinion on blade tension.
Thanks!
When I make the effort to properly tension my blade this is how I do it - ruclips.net/video/MIRyaWGa2dM/видео.html
Do I actually do this? No. Blade tension doesn’t really matter much when it comes to cutting straight. This video highlights that - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
Thanks for the great tips! I’m going to check my setup again 😊
No problem! Thanks for watching 🙂
So, a real newbie question then; if my bearings don't move when I turn the wheel manually, are they supposed to move when actually cutting wood????
That’s a great question! So when you are cutting curves all the guide bears should spin. When you are cutting straight technically only the thrust bearing should spin…but many folks deal with blade drift. If your blade is drifting the side bearings will spin as well(cause you are actually cutting a curve). This video explains and shows how to get rid of the drift problem- ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
So, I assume you disagree with Alex Snodgrass of Carter Bandsaw Products who says the gullet should be in the center of the wheel?
Disagree might be too strong of word…you can get quality cuts with the gullet or body of the blade in the centre. It doesn’t make any difference.
I tend to use blades wider than a 1/2” especially when cutting large sawmill sized logs. If you put the gullet of a 3/4” or wider blade in the centre of the wheel the back of the blade will be falling off the wheel. This leads to blade coming off when the cutting starts.
Truth be told all this setup stuff is negligible anyway. As long as you use your bandsaw properly you will never get drift regardless of your setup. This video shows what I mean - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.html
This setup for the top and bottom wheels functions for crowned tyre bandsaws, the majority of home band saws are like this. However for the tiny minority of flat tyred band saws, the saw blade teeth should just over hang the tyre. For the guides you are spot on. It is probably that you have never had a bandsaw designed for flat tyres, I only know of one or two that were made by Inca a Swiss company.
Very true! Some very large bandsaws have flat wheels, much like a sawmill. I’m that case the teeth should sit beyond the tire.
Thanks for noting this!
Ethan, For a future video could you demonstrate the free flowing cutting you described? That sounds like an interesting technique and it would be nice to see it in application.
Great idea! I’ll definitely do that in the future 🙂
Just posted a video with the free cutting blade! Here's the link - ruclips.net/video/vzNGEO1S4sE/видео.html
You're volume is all over the place...irriating