The DEFINITIVE Guide to Setting up a BANDSAW
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this video, I show you how to set up your bandsaw for optimum performance. I’ll take you through everything from blade selection to tensioning, tracking, bearing adjustment and fence alignment to get your bandsaw performing as it should do!
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My name is Matt Estlea and I’m a Woodworker from Basingstoke, England. My aim is to make your woodworking less s***.
I come from 5 years of TRAINING at Rycotewood Furniture Centre in Oxford, 5 years of experience WORKING at Axminster Tools and Machinery in Basingstoke, and 3 years TEACHING both day classes and evening classes at Rycotewood Furniture Centre. All while trying to get this RUclips thing off the ground.
By September 2021, I packed it all in to focus on RUclips and my business full-time.
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Guys, I've absolutely LOADED the description with a bunch of links. Please have a look, particularly at the Bandsaw VS. Table Saw article. I wrote it in a bit of a rush (as stated at the end of the article) and I'd love to hear you input on the matter. Cheers!
Keep loading I say..
The My Bandsaw link does not work :(
9
*Perfect band saw for the hobby enthusiast **MyBest.Tools** Easy to set up and square. Had it running in 10 to 15 minutes. Quality of cuts will depend on the quality of the blades.*
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ruclips.net/user/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
I don't know if you look back at these old postings or not but because if your video I now have a way better grasp of my bandsaw and its now working better than ever. Thanks for the help.
Aaaah man... wish I'd found this video a year ago!! Been looking everywhere to find someone to help explain/ fix the tracking issues i was having with my bandsaw and all I could find were smug dudes debating the existence of blade drift. This is the most comprehensive video explanation i have found on set up that covers some fundamental, top to bottom issues that may seem basic to some but are often overlooked by many. You manage to cover a lot of ground in a straightforward way without a hint of condescension- thank you!🙏🏻
This tutorial was VERY helpful. I inherited a bandsaw when my father died years ago, but am/was clueless how to set it up correctly. He built a nice cabinet for it and the motor runs beautifully. I can't wait to use it! THX Matt
Easily the best video on setting up a bandsaw I've watched. Very user friendly and broken down so even a wally like me can understand. Thanks Matt.
Hi Matt. Thanks for your tips. My bandsaw has never ran so true and so quiet. Very much appreciated
Nice job, clearly explaining the setup of the saw.... learned a number of things that should correct some issues I've had with my saw. Thank you!
Love your videos! Thanks for the effort. One thing your US viewers might like to know is that Axminster will ship directly to the USA and shipping is extremely reasonable. I just placed an order for items totaling $63 (US) and shipping was only $9 (US). Also, you can get the Axminister Bandsaw Buddy for less than half what Carter wants for the equivalent item.
Hey Matt
Thanks for your youtube. My brand new Jet saw, was screeming and dit not bite into the wood. My garda belov tje table was total wrong placed. I baught a new blade, fine tuned everything, and WOW now i got a bandsw… wish you the best👍
Thanks, just took one piece away from this and it total changed how my bandsaw performed. Got a nice clean, straight cut 😀
You are an outstanding instructor. Thank You
first time ive seen this video ,the best ive watched well done .
I read that bit about the table saw. I see your point. I've noticed that sometimes you use the band saw, as a table saw. I don't own either, and don't think I need'em. You convinced me I don't need a table saw, it's just convenient. I applied your logic, and relized the same is true of band saws. I still would like both.
I just got a grizzly Go555lx and I found this video very helpful. Thank you my friend from across the pond
Seen a number of bandsaw set up vids. This was the best one. Simple to follow and covered it all. Many thanks :)
so happy that you did this video, I have just taken delivery of my Axminster band saw a week ago and not had time to set it up properly just yet. I am very happy with it even with the factory blade which is off this planet compared to my old job sit band saw from Screwfix. I am also going on the Axminster band saw course.
One of the Best instructional videos I,v seen. Thank You so much. John from USA, Wisconsin.
You're a great guy Thanks for a great video with professional explanations. thanks
Another excellent video Matt.
I just bought my first bandsaw, and have seen a number of videos and posts on setup.
There's definitely some conflicting info between them, especially where the blade is supposed to ride on the the tire.
Centering the gullet whenever possible as both you and Snodgrass suggest makes the most sense.
Something that just makes no sense to me is why a manufacturer (who we will assume is proud of their equipment) would ship their equipment with possibly the worst blade a person could get their hands on.
Of course they would probably say, well, we don't know the specific purpose this person is going to use the saw for, and they'll probably just replace the blade with one that suits their needs.
My guess is if someone is buying a bandsaw, they're going to be buying it so they can cut wood.
And in doing so, most likely they would eventually be performing all of the cuts that a bandsaw is capable of doing.
So why not equip a new saw with a decent general use blade that is actually capable of cutting wood in an effective manner, rather then sell it with a POS that is no good for anything?
Well, waaaaaaaa! They might say. A good blade costs us money!!!!
Well waaaaa I say. A good band saw costs ME money!
There needs to be a balance.
I've worked in the restaurant biz for many years, as well as owning one for ten of them.
Some things are profitable to offer, some are not, but you offer them anyways as part of the entire service.
For example: As a customer, you might pay $2.00 or more for a glass of iced tea, when quite possibly the restaurant's cost is only 2 cents, maybe even less, making it a good profit item.
As the owner of a fine restaurant, you might want to offer the very best steak you possibly can.
In order not to gouge your customers (thus promoting future visits, ie purchases, you offer that fine steak pretty much at your cost, which leaves almost zero profit on that item.
BUT, the big picture needs to be looked at.
You just made $1.98 off that 2 cent glass of tea, or possibly a whole heck of a lot more on the alcohol purchased with that meal, as well as a desert, and many other little high profit items.
If you give a customer a crappy steak as part of their meal package, they most likely won't be happy and won't return in the future.
So as a business, it makes a hell of a lot more sense to make a little bit of many times, than it does to make a bunch only once.
Sorry, this got a little long, but to recap, why sell a saw equipped with a blade that doesn't saw, and is frustratingly impossible to set up?
It certainly doesn't lead to a first time customer believing they chose the right product or brand.
بسیار عالی مفید مختصر قوی کامل و جامع بود . ممنون و سپاس
As ever Matt, a great tutorial. I had to come back and watch again around the bandsaw buddy part because my Axminster bandsaw fence just would not adjust as you showed. In the end I had to modify the fence to allow more adjustment! Oh, well, all good now thanks to your tutorial.
Love your content. Love your personality. Totally appreciate your knowledge! Thanks so much, from America! david
I watched a video from Jonathan Katz-Moses recently on setting up a band saw. Other than your use of the Bandsaw Buddy, your techniques are pretty much the same. Now if I only had a bandsaw, then I could put this method to use. It is on my list of tools to get, but it may be a while before I get one. Thanks for the video, I'm going to save it for when I do get a bandsaw.
Great Presentation. Keep up the good woodwork.
Awesome video. My machine now runs like a new one!
Great video dude, gonna use these tips to set up mine... Cheers!
Ha Ha, After a while you will get tired of all the blade changes and buy a second bandsaw Don't ask me how I know..
I just got a vintage Hitachi B600. The wheels are cast iron with a flat profile, and there is a kind of o-ring on the side where the teeth go; probably meant to protect the teeth. It's clearly designed for the blade teeth to be flush with that side of the wheel. The blade is about an inch wide.
As others have said, this is the most thoroughly explained video I've seen on bandsaw setup. Outstanding job Matt!
Hey
Great video. I am a retired Carpenter (40)yrs. Retired but, still working in my shop.
Recently purchased a old FREJOTH My question is, After replacing the saw with new tires,
top adjustment screw unit, and new blade, the blade wobbles front to back. What causes this?
and how do I fix it? Thanks
Nicely done, would you have a video on sharpening a bandsaw blade thanks
Thanks Matt! Very good tutorial!
What a brilliant video. Thank you very much.
Matt, I agree with you that if I could only have one saw it would be a bandsaw. and all stock blades are worthless! Also, owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The wheels are NOT crowned, as you show at 13:39. Also, the saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw. Likewise, the thrust bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be; all blades run to the back and against the bottom thrust bearing at all times, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually. I tend to store mine open, so I purchased a cheap $5 garden hose rack, like the ones you screw to the outside wall of your house, and I store the blades safely there. No more tossing them across the shop! Scott
Matt, I’m relatively new to woodworking, spent much of 2020 2021 in a luthier shop and made a complete handmade guitar so I got a bit of a start but I’m now building anything I can get my hands on from simple furniture to bandsaw boxes. Bought an inexpensive Rikon bandsaw and had a bear of a time getting it to cut straight and found your video. I hope you understand the impact you can have on people half a world away, because the first thing I did was follow your advice and get rid of the blade came with it and, somewhat out of character for me, but three very expensive blades, a 3/16 inch 3/8 inch and a half inch. Used your video as a guide, takes me about 10 minutes to switch plates, you have a fan for life. Works perfectly. If you ever get to the Boston area give me a call and I’ll buy you a beer, heck I’ll buy you dinner
Thanks man, that's all i needed to start using my new bandsaw :)
"My name is Matt Estlea and I’m a Woodworker from Basingstoke, England"
A local boy! Nice video. My Axminster Craft saw arrives today. Care to come and help me set it up in Kempshott ;) J/K
I have used a lot of band saws over a long period of time and I believe you’ve nailed it ! Best overall presentation I’ve seen yet. I believe you could do another video on blade selection.
The only reason that placing the gullet in the center of the tire might not work, is that manufacturers often overstate how wide of a blade can be used on a particular saw. For example, you really should not try to use a one inch blade on a 14 inch saw.
If you talk to someone that uses a bandsaw for a living they will tell you the first thing you need to do to set up a bandsaw is the square the TABLE to the cut of the blade. This stops any runout or other weird stuff and makes the saw a pleasure to use. Most youtube videos fail to explain this and go into great detail on how to work with the problems caused by missing this most important step.
Tip (from experience!): When you coil up the blade, wrap a cable tie / string around it. I’ve had one come off the wall at head height, and uncoil at speed. It caused only minor injury, but it did it while I was concentrating on a close up cut on the bandsaw!
Excellent tutorial, very helpful! Thanks A LOT! 😀👍
In a word Brilliant. Many thanks
Great explanations - thank you!
I believe the 1-10 scale is sort of referring to the size of blade.. like 10 being the largest blade you can fit; and 1 being the smallest possible blade.
Pretty good tutorial here. I have seen quite a few, and it looks like a good review of the data.
Just wanted to let people know: I got a pretty high end bandsaw for myself and it did not come with a blade.
Also, there are other ways to do the fence straightening with a piece of scrap instead.
Overall great vid.
I know I'm late to the table here but just discovered your channel by accident and watched this video. This video is hands down one of the best in depth guides on bandsaw setup I've seen. Everything in just enough detail without being so long that I got bored. Well done, you definitely earned a like and subscribe. Keep up the great work.
FANTASTIC video Matt. Thank you. I’m getting a small hobby one but I learnt SO much from your post. #subscribedwiththanks x
I've heard about centring the gullet on the top wheel (from Alex Snodgrass and others), but don't understand why that should be better than centring the blade. If you know of any videos or blogs that explain the difference, please let me know. Nice comprehensive video.
ruclips.net/video/vNdrkmx6ehI/видео.html
Excellent video. Exactly how I set my machines up; although I'll admit I am aware of the Spag and Snodgrass videos. And Matt, great presentation, good video work and tidy editing too. Also please to see that you can still do woodworking and video work without your mini-me sidekick playing the role of a gooey eyed giggely Watson to your Sherlock.
Great video, thanks Matt
No mention of TABLE VIBRATION which seemed to be a big deal back when I was looking for a new bandsaw. The test was: can you balance a nickle on the table with the the machine running? I think I saw Laguna Tools do that successfully...in reality the nickle tends to fall over eventually but it will stand for a while.
Great video! Thank you.
Looks like I'll need to do some tweaking in my band saw
good video - learnt a lot from this thanks!
What is the best machine to straighten the wood after cutting it with the band saw ? the jointer or the thicknesse planer or maybe another machine beside the table saw
Thank you for this! I was about ready to throw my bandsaw out on the street. It could cut a circle better than a straight line.
haha. Try to put the lowest part of the tooth at the center of the top wheel. I saw a video on that, and it seems to really make sense, to keep it from twisting. Also, you can dial in the amount of twist and then eyeball the cut as you go. That can work as well.
Love your detailed explanation. My band saw is older and has the carbon cooling blocks on the side of the blade rather than the rollers. I’m told that they should periodically touch to cool the blade. Can you tell me your thoughts on these blocks and how far they should be from the blade.
At 6.34 you say you use a 3/4" blade for cutting curves! Apart from that a great, informative video thank you
Hi matt I've watched lots of videos about setting up. But no one ever talks about the back of the bandsaw .SO here go's How do I change the drive belt at the back from high speed to lower speed for hard woods Thanks Mate. I have a 14 inch Charnwood band saw. and your right about the factory blade...
I see your sticker board is filling up nicely
Also i know it is hard to find a LOWER TPI than 3 but it can be done and it is important for speed and proper chip removal as most resaw vuts are over 6-10inches that should be ~ 1.1tpi. you must find it.
Hi Matt still having difficulty setting my BS300E bandsaw. Don’t suppose you fancy a trip to Essex to have a look?
brilliant demo mate.What is your advice to beginner like me for cutting hard wood what power does it required 900 w- 1 hp ect.thanks and stay safe.
Matt, I’d explore you to look again at the Alex Snodgrass video for how to safely open up a stored bandsaw blade. You’re right to be concerned about danger when opening these, but two hands will keep the spring action under control without damaging the teeth. BTW, I’ve watched your channel get better and better over the years. Nicely done!
Hi Matt, why can't the bearings be touching the blade (behind the teeth naturally) wouldn't that just give extra support?
It actually forces the blade one way or the other when the bearing are touching the blade. That's their job but you only want them to guide the blade when it's drifting off center, not when you're already centered.
I have no experience with a band saw. My problem is that no matter what I do or what blade tension I use the blade always twists and, thus, will not cut straight. Any hints?
I have viewed many videos regarding where the blade is best set on the top wheel. What about the bottom wheel after all it is the bottom wheel that is doing all the work by pulling the blade through the wood. I would be interested for anyone’s view on this.
Shawn Graham over at Worth Effort recommended using a business card to set your bearings. Takes some of the TLAR out of the set up. (TLAR That Looks About Right)
There's no TLAR involved. You make certain the bearing is as close as possible to the blade without the bearing moving. Using a business card actually creates a much larger gap and you'll be more likely to have drift.
Having spent all afternoon stripping and cleaning my bandsaw, this was the perfect vid to come home to find! Nice job Matt
Great video! Thanks!
Your bandsaw is identical to my Grizzly g0513 but different paint job. 🤔😆
Hi, the best band saw video explanation! Very very useful. Many tks for yr effort no that.
Grettings from Argentina 👍
12:30 ... did you mention gloves ;)
I bought a new budget parkside bandsaw and spent best part of 2 weeks sorting tracking out with no success. (Cutting to the right). Came across your video and binned the blade supplied and bought a new blade (Dakin flathers ). Now cuts perfectly straight so fantastic tip !! Thank you.
Are theese machines made in the uk?Great video😊
Excellent guide! (well, I mean I guess we'll see how that holds true after I try it myself) ;) Thanks for going into so much detail -- other videos I watched felt a little surface level.
Curious what your thoughts are on height capacity; I ended up getting the 10" Rikon benchtop saw, which has a 5" resaw capacity. That was after a fair bit of back and forth on cost, machine size, weight, capabilities, etc. I figured 5" would be a compromise, but would do me fine for a fair while. For me personally, I'm quite sure I made a good choice, but I'd love to know what the minimum requirements (height or otherwise) of a bandsaw would be for your scale of work.
Snodgrass is a bandsaw legend. Followed his setup, and my bandsaw sings. Also, seek out double sealed bearings. They are not expensive and keep the wood dust out, which wrecks the bearings.
You're the first person to mention (at 11:18) about checking if the blade was inside out or not. I set up my first ever bandsaw and couldn't work out what was going on until I watched this and realised what had happened. Thanks!
did you ever make a review video on this saw? I have the opportunity to buy one just like this at an estate auction. just wondering if its worth it or not
Thank you for this great video! It will be helpfull for setting up my bandsaw again! I'm making wooden toys over on my channel with the bandsaw, always welcome to take a look!
I've watched the wood whisperers video and I learned a lot out of that video, but I learned even more in this video, thank you!
What about blade alignment to the mitre slot? Cover that then it’s the ‘ULTIMATE Definitive Guide’ 😉
Dammit!😂
Looking for anything remotely close to the bandsaw buddy, other brand, etc. here in the USA, let me know. Thanks.
Thanks @matt. Could you please setup a 1/4" or smaller blade ? I'm having a hard time balancing if from going far to the front or to the back...
setting up that blackboard was really a great idea
Great 👍
I have a question so my back bearings are both not vertical with them blade , when I tight them the bearings the top of the bearings sit to the left , will the make my cuts track off??
Excellent, Matt ! Well spoken; well laid out and brilliantly explained. You have evidently learned well and are mindful of sound avice. Well done, young man, tha nk you !
This is the best bandsaw set up tutorial anywhere on RUclips! Now did it work? Did it ever! Brilliant Matt!
Matt, I was about to scrap my brand new bandsaw until I watched this and heard you say the blades that come with them are rubbish. I got two new blades, set them up according to your instructions and now I have a fine cutting instrument. Thanks!
If you have not already, figure out which way the blade will land, so you can always make it land teeth up on the floor.
This well explained video is very helpful. Thanks for taking the time and make a video about it. This will help a lot of people
Great Video Thanks! Lockdown has given me an opportunity to setup a new workshop to make wood products for charity! I can't wait! Looking to buy all new equipment. Is the Axminster Trade bandsaw a good machine to aim for a Semi Pro/Professional LONG TERM piece of kit? Do you offer a list of equipment worth looking at please? Tx
Do not throw your blade to unind it. you can bend teeth and ruin the blade. unwind with control and use gloves, not at all dangerous. Watch Alex Snodgrass video and he explains how to do this safely. His video on setting up the bandsaw in the actual DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO SETTING UP A BANDSAW,
Dude, check out Alex Snodgrass's video on RUclips for setting up a bandsaw. I completely think you will very much find value in it. If nothing else, how to unfold and fold the blade with ease, and as he says, "no practice". Really, check it out! david
Matt I have a 8” lumberjack bandsaw and to be honest I didn’t realise how small it is. Are you able to recommend a bandsaw one that’s a decent size and preferably doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. The one I’ve got said an 8” bandsaw I got it wrong I thought it was height it could cut as it sort of suggested as advertised sort of misleading as I found out now I know it’s distance between the blade and inside face of frame. I don’t know the size of your one but only have a 16 x 10 and not much room so possibly a 10 or 12” one if ok with you cheers steve👨🏼🦽
This is a fantastic video, the advice about changing the blade the band saw comes with made a massive difference. Keep up the good work!
Your right about the bottom of the gullet being in the center of the wheel but uncoiling a blade on concrete is the quickest way to screw the teeth tip's and kill it.
Leather gloves, uncoil it slowly in your hands, easy. Throwing blades on the floor is a classic trade school bullshit safety thing.
The right way to set the thrust wheel is using the band to tell you how far it likes to bend back under load by pushing it back with a softwood block. Where the wheels rest after is where you lock them. That way they are biased top and bottom relative to the height of the bed and carry the load equally.
The blade needs to bend back a little under load otherwise it stresses the gullets and leads to blade and tooth distortion.
Usually the gap is around 1.5 mm max but it depends greatly on the stiffness of the band. Don't adjust your guides until you have adjusted the thrust wheel, especially on narrow bands.
If you put the wheels right behind the band they can develop to much friction under load and can burn really badly. Especially if the weld is not nice and square.
If a band oscillates backwards and forwards send it back and demand fix or replace.
Bad welds will cause bad tracking and ruin your guides.
Not many people know that.
There is in fact a lot lot more to adjusting and running a bandsaw properly than this video says.
Many variable's, many tricks, many potential problem's that can ruin a bandsaws performance. Very few people really know how to set them up properly and many bandsaws are irredeemable shitboxes that can't be fixed.
This a good example of Dunning Kruger.
If you want to learn how to adjust a bandsaw blade please disregard this video.
Here is a good solid explanation: ruclips.net/video/wGbZqWac0jU/видео.html
There is a video on RUclips that shows you exactly how to handle untwisting bandsaw blades without injury. It’s done by someone at least 2 times your age, with at least 3 times your experience level, and the best part is, he says that “lobbing” a bandsaw blade is far more dangerous to yourself as well as your woodwork. The bandsaw blade teeth can easily get bent, chipped, or otherwise dulled and that makes the blade worthless. You might want to view that video. It’s done by a guy who teaches how to set up a bandsaw properly.