Love the fact you have your wife's grandpa's saw and took the time to tune it up to make it more useable. Also loved the fence adjustment part as well as the resting of your adjustment.
Replacing the tires and original V-belt with a link-belt on my old ridgid 14" made all the difference in the world! I was literally amazed at how much smoother it ran. Excellent.
Thanks for the tips! I just picked up a used 14” Craftsman BAS350 (Rikon clone) from a pawn shop for $169. The table is a bit rusty and two of the bearings were seized. I sprayed the table with WD-40 and let it soak while I went to the skate shop for wheel bearings. They are the same size and a LOT cheaper than what my local woodworking shop wanted. After everything was clean and roughly lined up, I still had vibration and front to back blade movement. I had forgotten to check the motor belt until watching this video. It’s a serpentine belt that was misaligned by one groove. I adjusted that and it is running a lot better now!
Good analysis and solutions for vibration. I stopped getting drift when I started centering the blade on the top wheel crown.Instructions from some sources recommend running the blade so that the teeth slightly overlap the edge of the wheel. When you think about it, following that recommendation means that the blade will bend slightly coming off the wheel and always drift away from a fence aligned to the miter slot. Centering the blade on the crown ( middle) of the wheel means that I can align my fence exactly parallel to the miter slot. I no longer have to make an adjustment on my miter gauge of a degree or thereabouts off 90 degrees.
I have no experience with bandsaws, but I really wanted one. I just came from a store where I bought this really cheap hobbyst model for 1/3 of the price because it was the last one they had and it was used as display (meaning it doesn't has the box, manual, etc anymore). When I turned it on at the store I noticed this huge wobbling at the blade that I hope to fix, and while searching for information on it I've found your video. Now you gave me some good ideas, and if even mine is a just a little hobbyst model, I feel a lot more inspired to improve that baby. Thank you!
This video just proved to me what I already knew - my bandsaw needs tuning, and it really shouldn't take that much work to make it run 100% better than it does. Thanks for giving me the inspiration I need to get out in the shop and get it done. You get a subscribe.
Great video! Did you know adjusting the blade on the upper wheel will account for the blade drift. Then you can keep your fence aligned with the mitre slot for perfect 90s on a mitre gauge as well
I volunteer at a senior woodshop and our 14" bandsaw vibrates like crazy. I'm going to see if I can get some funding to replace the tires and belt and, at the very least, adjust the fence because I'm absolutely sure it's not straight. Our equipment gets abused and I'd not be surprised if simply squaring the fence we won't have as many drift problems. Thanks for sharing!!!
I installed that type of belt on my drill press. It made a world of difference. That was over 30 years ago and they still work perfectly. I need to do the same for my band saw too.
Very nice video. The only problem With adjusting the fence to the drift is that now the fence is most likely not in line with the miter slot. Some saws allow for adjusting the top which is better. From a number of videos I've seen, drift can be eliminated from any saw ( especially an old quality made one like yours) with some know how, patience, and practice.
I did the same thing with mine when I bought a used one. I also changed one thrust bearing and the blade guides. I wanted to thank you for showing me how to adjust for blade drift in such and easy way. I never use my fence because of this, but now I'll adjust it!! :)
That's it - I'm building a 2 wheel bandsaw. Fine tuning it seems SO much easier than a 3 wheel one. I have balanced my wheels, changed blade, tracked all the wheels (to best of my abilities) and tighten it down to it's base. I tried to find new rubber bands for the wheels, but the price I had to pay was just not worth it (might be cheaper in the US mind you :) ). I think you did a great job explaining/filming the fine tuning of this old JET bandsaw, so new sub here !
Nice video, well done. FWIW, I remove blade drift by tweaking the position of the blade on the top tire; use the tilt adjustment to find the sweet spot. No need to adjust the fence.
I literally passed on buying a bandsaw yesterday because it had too much of a vibration to it. If I had only known where to look I might have been able to remedy the problem. Nice video! Glad I found your channel.
It's worth passing if it wasn't almost free. Even if all of the symptoms his showed were present you can still have issues that aren't present in his saw. Best bet is to move on and spend that money on a used one that doesn't present the problems.
I think Miguel makes a good point. If it was really cheap it could be worth a try. At the very least I'm sure you could have improved it and gotten your money back out of it if you weren't satisfied. My saw was a hand-me-down and I spent about $65 for the parts to make it run smoothly. I got lucky.
Yeah I agree with Miguel. I think I made the right choice. You can see a brief pic of it in my latest video (5 new hand planes) but it wasn't until I got up close that I started to see things I didn't like. But it's sure nice to know where to look in order to improve the vibrations in my current saw. I knew about the vbelt versus link belt improvement because I did that on my table saw but changing the tires is all brand new info for me. Thanks for the vid!
You never know what it was, however the v belts can put a serious amount of vibration in things. My jointer I got shook the entire shop! On a cement slab! The worst was when I turned it off, as it spun down. I'm sure it would have torn up the bearings fairly quickly. This was a new jointer that had sat for 10 years without ever being turned on. I tried a link belt, and within 20 minutes it was twisting and tearing itself up. I ended up getting a new v belt, and the vibration is much better (a bit more vibration than the link belt though).
I have the exact same bandsaw and you pointed out the exact same problem. Great video! And I too didn't use my saw enough because of these problems, but now I plan to do both upgrades to my saw now as well and go back to using it full time. When I put the saw together I added 3/8" rubber washers between the upper saw and motor box thinking it would reduce vibration. It helped out a little. To reduce motor noise I used spray foam around the inside of the motor box and it reduce it pretty well, but I didn't take any decibel measurements because I don't have a noise meter.
Dude It's all about that base- I have one too and I junked the chinsy aluminum base and bolted it to a really firm wooden base I built- and then bolted that to the ground. No wbble or vibration at all! Good tips too- I learned something from you
Linked belts remove a lot of vibration from shop tools. The links made a *huge* in quieting the air compressor. I've also installed one on the VFD-converted drill press. It rather nice to have a drill press which works perfectly speed-wise for both wood and metal tasks.
There is a technique to reduce or eliminate drift that involves where you place the band on the upper wheel. There are a few RUclips videos that talk about this. In my own experience, by using this band placement technique, I've eliminated drift on my Laguna LT18.
Great tutorial video... I like the way how you explain as you go. You've explained it clearly and to the point. One thing I hate about some people is their love to just talk and talk and talk and you're wondering when is the next step going to be.... yours on the other hand wasn't like that and it's great... I'm new with woodworking and I'm gonna try that toothbrush trick you did...awesome!
Thanks Junior! I agree with you on the over-talking thing! I hate listening to myself talk so I tend to edit my videos down as much as possible. Most projects are first cut together at close to 20 minutes! Then I go through and start hacking out things that aren't necessary. My goal is to make things as short as possible without skipping anything important.
I have the exact same saw and probably just as old. I added the riser block and I noticed the upper blade guides need to be readjusted if I raise them up high. Then you f I lower them they need to be readjusted again. I thought maybe I missed a tiny bit of dirt or sawdust when adding the riser block. So I took it all apart and cleaned it well, but the problem is still there. Any idea on how I could fix the problem?
I used your tips to smooth out my cheap Central Machinery band saw. One additional step I did was to balance the wheels using automobile wheel balancing weights.
Excellent video! I previously did all the adjustments that you did to my bandsaw (a very similar saw to yours) including the Kreg fence. It now runs much better too.
Great video. Clear and concise. Just bought a HF 14" bandsaw. It runs smoother than I thought out of the box, but now I have a point to shoot for. In researching this I also found that the upper and lower wheels can have a heavy side. Probably more of an issue for an HF saw than a Jet, but worth checking while you are changing the tyres.
I had a band saw with more vibration than I liked. I got some stick on wheel weights and balanced the wheels.I used tape and sheet rock screws stuck to the wheels to get the correct weight and then weight the screws on my reloading grain scales to be accurate. I had to carve one weight down to get it right. With the blade off spin the wheel several times and where it stops add weighton the top of the wheel. You will be surprised at the difference. This may work if all the other ways have been used and didn't work.
That's a great tip! I've always meant to go back and ballance the wheels on mine, but it's worked well enough since this video that I keep putting it off.
Exceptional video good demo and lite use of wood. I learned a lot thanks one way to get rid of the blades drift. Insure the blade is on the center of the urethane wheel. The slight arch on the wheel can cause drift. Center of blade to center of wheel
I see that this is an older video, but I just got one of these saws, and I wanted to see what I can do to make it nicer. My old bandsaw sounded much like yours before your work. Now I know a few things to check out as I set up my new-to-me saw.
Make sure your blade guide pads, top and bottom, are still good. I just had to replace all four of mine. When they start to get funky your blade will drift all over the place. Great saw otherwise.
Hey, thanks for the video. I too have a band saw that vibrates a lot. I think I will follow your steps and see if I can make it better. I appreciate your post. Take Care.
Very well explained. Especially the part about drift. Does that belt have a direction it needs to be installed in ? Seeing how the links are made I think it would. I might look into changing my belt as I've already been through the rest of it. I know this is an older video now but thanks !
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ruclips.net/user/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
It could be that the main wheel bearings are worn or lower quality. Replace these with good quality bearings with the lowest internal clearances to minimise vibration. Also,use sealed bearings not shielded bearings as the shields can allow dirt or sawdust inside in time. Use the same spec bearings on the guides if these are the bearing type.
Thanks for those tips, my bandsaw has some bad vibrations, I am taking your advise, replacing those tires first thing. Thank you for the video, I appreciate the info.
We are battling with an old UK Startrite that just gives us the heebee jeebees and vibrates like hell. Was almost giving up on it. Thanks for showing and sharing this video. At least there's some hope now as U even mentioned the link where U got your tyres from. Just great. ATB aRM
Outrageous, I have a 14 inch Laguna bandsaw circa 2002 and it is shaking itself across the shop floor. Where did you find those urethane tires? Laguna said they couldn't help me with new tires as my saw was too old ??? Really good video I am hopeful I can fix my saw.
Here's a quick tip if you change blades a lot, knock that knob off of the tensioner and there's a 10mm bolt underneath the plastic that you can just stick a socket on and use a screw gun or just crank by hand (way faster). I own the same band saw.
I have the same saw. Vibrates due to sheet metal base, and lack of rigidity in the overarm. I am running a one horse motor, and gear reduction to allow metal cutting.
Clever hint ever! Eeven though my band saw is an entry-level model, more suited to the hobby (Einhell BT200), the tip of changing the rubber on the pulleys was great. --->>> THANK YOU !
A lot of times vibrations are coming from the ground up, as the wheels are turning they create vibrations that get absorbed into the ground, and if your saw is sitting directly on the cement floor and if your floor is not dead level, it will telescope back into the machine as it runs, try to install shock absorbers like those installed on air compressors.
the other source of your vibration is the base of the machine itself. manufacturers of home gamer equipment have to cheapen them up to get sales. however there are some simple remedies to that problem. there is a reason that cheap machines are light and expensive machines are heavy and that reason is price. *well balanced mass is the determining factor for smooth running* the first would be to build a complete new base for the machine. its mass should be double or triple that of the saw itself. so for example if the saw weighs 80lbs your base needs to weigh 240lbs. it sounds like overkill but there are harmonics at work here that you can't get away from with the cheap bases the second option is to add weights into the base cabinet of the machine. that can be steel plates from cutoffs etc from fab shops and whatnot. bricks will work but don't possess the mass density of steel plates. doing this won't eliminate the harmonics that develop in the thin walls of the base but it does take part of the top heavy out of the equation thirdly, if the machine is on casters: take it off and bolt it to the floor. bandsaws are *EXTREMELY* top heavy and do not perform well when they are mounted to be mobile. just about every popular woodworker channel in youtube has their bandsaw on a mobile base and they all howl about the cut quality... *DUH!!* finally: tear the machine apart, balance the wheels and replace the bearings. chinese and taiwanese manufacturers like Jet et al use cheap crappy out of round bearing from china that aren't worth luggin' home even if they were free for the taking. get sealed for life SKF, FAG or TImken bearings that are made in USA, Sweden, Germany etc. if they say "made in China" or "made in PRC".. leave them on the shelf regardless of the brand. you'll never get the results you want. if you have a machine shop at your disposal as i do you can also make a new drive wheel out of steel instead of the cheap pot metal that the factory wheel is made of. again mass makes all the difference.
Man, that is a pile of good advice! Thank you. I believe that opens up a bit of a debate though, for a cheap (or in my case free) saw, how much money is it worth dumping into improvements? Is it better to just spend that money on a better saw. Or do the "better" saws have the same problems?
well there are several ways to approach this: the first is, if you have the knowledge, skills and tools but most of all the *time* to take a cheap piece of junk and make it into something useful then getting a cheap machine makes good sense. if however you're a stickler for quality of your own product and the tools you possess then it of course it doesn't. now you got into your saw as a hand-me-down and so the initial acquisition was essentially zero to you, now you have gone and done several upgrades, so the money you have into the upgrades is essentially what your initial cost is. your saw is worth about 200 to 300 on the open market based on condition. so if you spend 200 on parts and don't count your labor then you can reasonably expect to recoup your initial investment. if however you're doing this as a business it becomes essential to monetize your time and count it towards the equity value of the machine. so if you have to sink 10 hours @ 15/hr you're already past the threshold when parts are factored in. but then as a pro you have a different equity schedule you'll be working off of when it comes to lines of credit as you will over-valuating the machinery to the bank in order leverage the highest line of credit. but that's a whole other kettle of fish... so the bottom line here is if you envision selling the machine later on don't spend any more on parts and machine that would put you over the going market price. breakeven is good, making a profit is gravy most guys and gals tinkering around in their home shop simply don't have the money to dedicate to buying top quality machinery. however you can get into quality machines if you have access to the internet and watch local and national auctions. i have gotten into my entire collection of machinery thru ebay and have built probably anywhere between 25000 and 40000 in equity on less than a 5000 initial investment because i used certain strategies. also, buying a worn out name brand machine and restoring it can build enormous equity if you play your cards right. the other aspect is that often times older machines out of german or US manufacture are better running machines even in a worn out state than factory new chinese and taiwanese machines. i can't begin to recount how many times i have experienced this.. now when you do get into a cheap machine and do all the upgrades that make it a decent running machine, be aware that the improvements will not be reflected in a resale price as used machines will only fetch what the market can bear. it's the old adage of polishing a turd... my dad always said "if you're gonna have equipment you need to know how to work on it and have the tools do so" most people lack the knowledge of how to work on their equipment and kinda fudge their way thru it and with this wonderful resource of youtube they can quickly expand their knowledge base by looking for theme or machine specific advice. to your second question: no, decent (expensive) saws generally don't have those issues. band saws from sweden and germany that are delivered "ready to run" are exactly that. that's why you're paying a premium price. sadly many german manufacturers have outsourced their production to china (like the brand Optimum) and so you're back to square one if you buy an outsourced machine. the only advantage you have is that the seller has to honor the warranty, and there *WILL* be warranty issues. the one point i cannot stress enough, and i harped on it ad nauseum in my video review of the festool jigsaw is: *don't skimp on blades* you will not get a $10 cut from a 50 cent blade. buy the best blades you can possibly afford even if it hurts a little. the higher price will more than repay you in longer service life and quality of cut. and again, watch where your tooling comes from. chinese stuff looks really good until you stick a dial indicator on it or a micrometer and start measuring. the machine is only the implement running the tool. if the tool isn't worth a shit from the onset you will never get a satisfactory result no matter how good of a machine you might have so spend the bulk of your money on good quality blades...
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Dude, your a man after my own heart. Finally someone else who actually knows what the hell they are talking about. Fist bump. There is NOTHING sexier than a finely tuned bandsaw. Smooth, quiet and hums like a sewing machine. Most guys dont even begin to know what a good bandsaw is like to run. What saw you got ?
Love the straight shooting advice and as a weekend warrior I have gotten some less than stellar performance from my old 14" Delta with a riser installed. I have to have mine on casters as I have to move it into place when I need to cut longer pieces, I have already build a heavier base with a shelf and drawer. I have added a "ton" of weight by adding old horse shoes and RR track spikes. My next purchase will be better bearings. I have had two seize up already. Do you have any thoughts on the Carter bearing series? As to the tip of the better blades, could you recommend any specific brand? I get that the better ones will cost more but what do I look for that makes them better? Thanks Pat
Thank you very much for this, it’s going to help me out quite a bit because I have the exact same problems that I would like to fix. You’re very kind to post this for us
Hey bud, great video. Thanks for sharing. I just got a brand new 15-20 year old craftsman bandsaw which was also seating collecting dust all these years after the owner finish the project he bought it for. I already realized tires were an immediate change as they literally spun out double their diameter but I didn’t think of the belt which in fact also has 2 U shaped memory spots. I’ll look into that new style of belt you installed.
I had recently got a band saw and the blade tends to wobble a lot. Would you happen to know why? All the wheel guards and tracks are where they should be, is it perhaps its not enough tension on the blade?
Great video !! I recently bought a Harborfreight 14" bandsaw. Is not the best.... I know, but it's what I can to buy. I don't assambled yet. Do you think this tips could help it to has an smoother run ? What kind of belt is it ?? Thank's for share.
I tried the hot water trick, it didn’t help. I just stretched the new urethane tires on. The new 3/4” resaw blade was the biggest improvement I made. I’ve got a 6” riser block coming next week.
I tried a link belt on my jointer, which had sat for 10 years, never turned on even once! It removed the horrid vibration, but within 20 minutes was twisting in the pulleys and tearing itself up. I contacted the manufacturer, but they had no answer. I returned it. I followed the directions exactly, and it was on very tight. I'm wondering if it was too tight, as it didn't look like (from the video anyway) you put nearly as much tension on the link belt.
i have this exact model ( also blue ) i bought it new and like your grandfather in law dismissed it as junk its been sitting in my shop 20yrs or better , yesterday i decided id give it a 2nd look b4 i sold it for a new one ive yet to do any of the things you've done but a huge improvement was lining up the miter gauge slot with the drift of the blade it had an incredible impact now im dying for more improvements thanks for the video 👍
I would run the bandsaw without a blade on, then without the drive belt to see where the vibration originates. Also, is the blade welded properly? I have seen videos of people grinding the back of the blade with a dremmel to achieve even contact with the thrust bearing...
Some good tips there. For me I find the blade makes a lot of difference to vibration, with all things being equal, some blades just seem to cause more vibration than others.
Another source of vibration can be the weld on the blade. The back edge of the blade should be honed with a coarse sharpening stone. While the saw is running, take the stone and hold it against the back of the blade and angle it back and forth to create a slight radius.
Dude this is one of the best videos I have seen. And the more awesome part is that u opened up the whole machine. so simply. the toothbrush trick was awwhhsom ... Awaiting more videos.
I've tried to adjust my bandsaw several times without success. I've tried everything but I have not change the tires yet. Until now, when I turn the wheel by hand without the blade, there is no problem, turns well. But when I install the blade and I tighten it, it feels like it has a "hard point" that brakes the wheel a little bit and when I turn on the machine, blade twists and I cannot make a straight cut. What could be the solution for this? Thanks for any help.
So what made the Most difference, in correcting the vibration ? The Blade, the Belt, the Guide Blocks, the Urethane Wheel Belts. Maybe adjustents ? Nicely done video !
I did a test between each step for my own piece of mind and it seemed like the tires and the belt both split about half the credit for removing the vibration.
My 1960’s 14” Eagle Tools bandsaw (no relation the the ‘Eagle Tools’ brand in California) looks identical to your old Jet model. I’m looking to buy a 6” riser for it but cannot find any information about my machine online. I know almost all of the old 14” bandsaws were built in Taiwan by a small handful of companies back then so although it’s a crapshoot, I’d imagine your old Jet was as well. Can you tell me what model yours is? Hopefully I can order the same riser for mine as you have on yours and pray the guide/set pins line up exactly. Thanks!
I've been adjusting my fence to account for blade drift every time I change the blade, but I finally learned about setting the wheel tilt so that it's riding right in the middle of the tire. Too far back and it drifts left, too far forward it drifts right.
I like your tip at the end, but I would rather adjust the tracking than put the fence out of square, although that entails adjustments of the guide bushes/ bearings. Interesting video. I’d check the motor pulley. They can be off centre if they are cheapos. There’s nothing like a new blade to reduce drift.
I know this is an older post so hopefully you are still answering and following. I have what looks to be the same bandsaw. 14" Jet. I am def going to try your fix, my vibrations are crazy like yours, prob even worse. One thing I really noticed though that you didn't mention and I hope you can help is you have a KREGG fence. The fence I have with the saw totally sux, where did you get it and how did you get it to work on the rails. TIA
Hey Brian, good eye - that is the Kreg fence. It comes with a rail that bolts to the front of the saw. If I remember right, its meant to work with a bunch of different saws.
I have a new Jet bandsaw and after the first day of use I noticed the same build up on the urethane tires (both wheels even the bottom one with a brush) I tried a lot of different things to clean it/get it off but it didnt completely take it off- Theres still a lot of rough bumps through out the tires. Why would the saw dust build up do that so soon and what could I do to remove it after it is already caked on. This was literally the first time I used it so I really dont see myself replacing the tires on it for years to come. I was kind of puzzled to see it happen so fast. Any insight would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't really have a good answer for removing the dust that's already packed on. I know that the best way to prevent it would be to have really good dust collection pull the dust away before it gets a chance to be compressed between the blade and the tire.
fyi you should glue the urethane tires down over time the elasticity will be gone and could cause the tires to break the cast aluminum wheels. also 3 phase motors run smoother. try a horse matt from tractor supply to put under the bandsaw to see if that helps as well. good video though!
Another video i seen they say the wheels have to be glued on (I don’t see why ) but the guy was very knowledgeable , your thoughts ? I just got mine so im a newbie with it lol but it also vibrates alot its a craftsman
I'm looking to buy my first bandsaw. I am limited to a 10" saw (as opposed to 14" for reasons of space, weight and budget). I'm currently trying to decide between the WEN 3962, which has a 6" clearance (but 3.5 amp motor), and a Rikon 10-306 which has a better motor at 5.5 amps, but only a 5" depth. Any recommendations?
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Love the fact you have your wife's grandpa's saw and took the time to tune it up to make it more useable.
Also loved the fence adjustment part as well as the resting of your adjustment.
Replacing the tires and original V-belt with a link-belt on my old ridgid 14" made all the difference in the world! I was literally amazed at how much smoother it ran. Excellent.
Thanks for the tips! I just picked up a used 14” Craftsman BAS350 (Rikon clone) from a pawn shop for $169. The table is a bit rusty and two of the bearings were seized. I sprayed the table with WD-40 and let it soak while I went to the skate shop for wheel bearings. They are the same size and a LOT cheaper than what my local woodworking shop wanted. After everything was clean and roughly lined up, I still had vibration and front to back blade movement. I had forgotten to check the motor belt until watching this video. It’s a serpentine belt that was misaligned by one groove. I adjusted that and it is running a lot better now!
Good analysis and solutions for vibration. I stopped getting drift when I started centering the blade on the top wheel crown.Instructions from some sources recommend running the blade so that the teeth slightly overlap the edge of the wheel. When you think about it, following that recommendation means that the blade will bend slightly coming off the wheel and always drift away from a fence aligned to the miter slot. Centering the blade on the crown ( middle) of the wheel means that I can align my fence exactly parallel to the miter slot. I no longer have to make an adjustment on my miter gauge of a degree or thereabouts off 90 degrees.
I have no experience with bandsaws, but I really wanted one. I just came from a store where I bought this really cheap hobbyst model for 1/3 of the price because it was the last one they had and it was used as display (meaning it doesn't has the box, manual, etc anymore). When I turned it on at the store I noticed this huge wobbling at the blade that I hope to fix, and while searching for information on it I've found your video. Now you gave me some good ideas, and if even mine is a just a little hobbyst model, I feel a lot more inspired to improve that baby. Thank you!
This video just proved to me what I already knew - my bandsaw needs tuning, and it really shouldn't take that much work to make it run 100% better than it does. Thanks for giving me the inspiration I need to get out in the shop and get it done. You get a subscribe.
Well thank you! I'm glad I could help you out.
Thanks
Great video! Did you know adjusting the blade on the upper wheel will account for the blade drift. Then you can keep your fence aligned with the mitre slot for perfect 90s on a mitre gauge as well
I volunteer at a senior woodshop and our 14" bandsaw vibrates like crazy. I'm going to see if I can get some funding to replace the tires and belt and, at the very least, adjust the fence because I'm absolutely sure it's not straight. Our equipment gets abused and I'd not be surprised if simply squaring the fence we won't have as many drift problems. Thanks for sharing!!!
I hope that works for you!
@@GunflintDesigns 0:08
I installed that type of belt on my drill press. It made a world of difference. That was over 30 years ago and they still work perfectly.
I need to do the same for my band saw too.
Very nice video. The only problem With adjusting the fence to the drift is that now the fence is most likely not in line with the miter slot. Some saws allow for adjusting the top which is better. From a number of videos I've seen, drift can be eliminated from any saw ( especially an old quality made one like yours) with some know how, patience, and practice.
I did the same thing with mine when I bought a used one. I also changed one thrust bearing and the blade guides. I wanted to thank you for showing me how to adjust for blade drift in such and easy way. I never use my fence because of this, but now I'll adjust it!! :)
It's not perfect, but it definitely makes things better with very little effort.
That's it - I'm building a 2 wheel bandsaw. Fine tuning it seems SO much easier than a 3 wheel one. I have balanced my wheels, changed blade, tracked all the wheels (to best of my abilities) and tighten it down to it's base.
I tried to find new rubber bands for the wheels, but the price I had to pay was just not worth it (might be cheaper in the US mind you :) ).
I think you did a great job explaining/filming the fine tuning of this old JET bandsaw, so new sub here !
Thanks Mikkel! I hope you get yours all sorted out.
Nice video, well done.
FWIW, I remove blade drift by tweaking the position of the blade on the top tire; use the tilt adjustment to find the sweet spot. No need to adjust the fence.
Great video and the best approach to drift I have ever tried. This is an adjustment approach I will always use from now on. Thanks so much!
I literally passed on buying a bandsaw yesterday because it had too much of a vibration to it. If I had only known where to look I might have been able to remedy the problem. Nice video! Glad I found your channel.
It's worth passing if it wasn't almost free. Even if all of the symptoms his showed were present you can still have issues that aren't present in his saw. Best bet is to move on and spend that money on a used one that doesn't present the problems.
I think Miguel makes a good point. If it was really cheap it could be worth a try. At the very least I'm sure you could have improved it and gotten your money back out of it if you weren't satisfied. My saw was a hand-me-down and I spent about $65 for the parts to make it run smoothly. I got lucky.
Yeah I agree with Miguel. I think I made the right choice. You can see a brief pic of it in my latest video (5 new hand planes) but it wasn't until I got up close that I started to see things I didn't like. But it's sure nice to know where to look in order to improve the vibrations in my current saw. I knew about the vbelt versus link belt improvement because I did that on my table saw but changing the tires is all brand new info for me. Thanks for the vid!
Fisher's Shop
You never know what it was, however the v belts can put a serious amount of vibration in things. My jointer I got shook the entire shop! On a cement slab! The worst was when I turned it off, as it spun down. I'm sure it would have torn up the bearings fairly quickly. This was a new jointer that had sat for 10 years without ever being turned on. I tried a link belt, and within 20 minutes it was twisting and tearing itself up. I ended up getting a new v belt, and the vibration is much better (a bit more vibration than the link belt though).
I have the exact same bandsaw and you pointed out the exact same problem. Great video! And I too didn't use my saw enough because of these problems, but now I plan to do both upgrades to my saw now as well and go back to using it full time. When I put the saw together I added 3/8" rubber washers between the upper saw and motor box thinking it would reduce vibration. It helped out a little. To reduce motor noise I used spray foam around the inside of the motor box and it reduce it pretty well, but I didn't take any decibel measurements because I don't have a noise meter.
I hope you try these out and let me know if they made a difference for you!
Excellent video, straight to the point and logical approach to these problems, will now have to tackle the drive belts and wheel rubbers on mine.
Dude It's all about that base- I have one too and I junked the chinsy aluminum base and bolted it to a really firm wooden base I built- and then bolted that to the ground. No wbble or vibration at all! Good tips too- I learned something from you
Thanks for the feedback Martin! I can see how a new heavy base would make a big difference.
Linked belts remove a lot of vibration from shop tools. The links made a *huge* in quieting the air compressor. I've also installed one on the VFD-converted drill press.
It rather nice to have a drill press which works perfectly speed-wise for both wood and metal tasks.
Like the rubber mallet wedge method. Using what you have to solve a problem.
There is a technique to reduce or eliminate drift that involves where you place the band on the upper wheel. There are a few RUclips videos that talk about this. In my own experience, by using this band placement technique, I've eliminated drift on my Laguna LT18.
I just bought a saw just like that for $30. I've been smiling all week 😊
Good video, thanks for not waffling on for ages about irrelevant rubbish like so many presenters do. Keep up the good work.
Great tutorial video... I like the way how you explain as you go. You've explained it clearly and to the point. One thing I hate about some people is their love to just talk and talk and talk and you're wondering when is the next step going to be.... yours on the other hand wasn't like that and it's great... I'm new with woodworking and I'm gonna try that toothbrush trick you did...awesome!
Thanks Junior! I agree with you on the over-talking thing! I hate listening to myself talk so I tend to edit my videos down as much as possible. Most projects are first cut together at close to 20 minutes! Then I go through and start hacking out things that aren't necessary. My goal is to make things as short as possible without skipping anything important.
Bandsaw are great machines.. they do require a lot of adjustment.. but once its running perfect they are a pleasure to work with.. Good video.
Just replaced my old tires that were gosh knows how old, and right away there seemed to be a huge improvement
I have the exact same saw and probably just as old. I added the riser block and I noticed the upper blade guides need to be readjusted if I raise them up high. Then you f I lower them they need to be readjusted again. I thought maybe I missed a tiny bit of dirt or sawdust when adding the riser block. So I took it all apart and cleaned it well, but the problem is still there. Any idea on how I could fix the problem?
I used your tips to smooth out my cheap Central Machinery band saw. One additional step I did was to balance the wheels using automobile wheel balancing weights.
Excellent video! I previously did all the adjustments that you did to my bandsaw (a very similar saw to yours) including the Kreg fence. It now runs much better too.
Great, I'm glad you got some use out of it!
I really like your narration style.
I was just thinking the same thing. He is direct and explains why he does what he does. It helps me learn instead of leaving me with more questions.
Great video. Clear and concise. Just bought a HF 14" bandsaw. It runs smoother than I thought out of the box, but now I have a point to shoot for. In researching this I also found that the upper and lower wheels can have a heavy side. Probably more of an issue for an HF saw than a Jet, but worth checking while you are changing the tyres.
I had a band saw with more vibration than I liked. I got some stick on wheel weights and balanced the wheels.I used tape and sheet rock screws stuck to the wheels to get the correct weight and then weight the screws on my reloading grain scales to be accurate. I had to carve one weight down to get it right. With the blade off spin the wheel several times and where it stops add weighton the top of the wheel. You will be surprised at the difference. This may work if all the other ways have been used and didn't work.
That's a great tip! I've always meant to go back and ballance the wheels on mine, but it's worked well enough since this video that I keep putting it off.
Screws & tape....they make sheet lead that you could wrap and pound very similar to balancing a car rim
Exceptional video good demo and lite use of wood. I learned a lot thanks one way to get rid of the blades drift. Insure the blade is on the center of the urethane wheel. The slight arch on the wheel can cause drift. Center of blade to center of wheel
I see that this is an older video, but I just got one of these saws, and I wanted to see what I can do to make it nicer. My old bandsaw sounded much like yours before your work. Now I know a few things to check out as I set up my new-to-me saw.
Make sure your blade guide pads, top and bottom, are still good. I just had to replace all four of mine. When they start to get funky your blade will drift all over the place. Great saw otherwise.
Very informative. I enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing this information and teaching your experience.
Excellent video. I just purchased an older Delta 14" BS (last model made in USA.) i'll try your tips as i reassemble it.
Let me know how it turns out!
Hey, thanks for the video. I too have a band saw that vibrates a lot. I think I will follow your steps and see if I can make it better. I appreciate your post. Take Care.
Very well explained. Especially the part about drift. Does that belt have a direction it needs to be installed in ? Seeing how the links are made I think it would. I might look into changing my belt as I've already been through the rest of it. I know this is an older video now but thanks !
This little band saw has turned out to be the best tool purchase I've ever made ruclips.net/user/postUgkx5ZrqmYO2uJq_nuU8TopyWxVzn8vqmPUL Once doing the set-up as per the included suggestions, this table top tool has been my go-to saw ever since (8 months as of this review). There are few things I wouldn't attempt with this saw. It takes up much less space than my table saw yet delivers twice as much punch. I've used it to create slices of wood no thicker than an 1/16th of inch by using the POWERTEC BS900RF Rip Fence. For small shop projects this tool can't be beat.
It could be that the main wheel bearings are worn or lower quality. Replace these with good quality bearings with the lowest internal clearances to minimise vibration. Also,use sealed bearings not shielded bearings as the shields can allow dirt or sawdust inside in time. Use the same spec bearings on the guides if these are the bearing type.
Thanks for those tips, my bandsaw has some bad vibrations, I am taking your advise, replacing those tires first thing. Thank you for the video, I appreciate the info.
I'm glad I could help! Let me know how it goes for you.
Nice tip on setting up the fence at the end. Thank you.
Nice video mate! Straight away to my workshop for the adjustments! Thanks 👍
We are battling with an old UK Startrite that just gives us the heebee jeebees and vibrates like hell. Was almost giving up on it. Thanks for showing and sharing this video. At least there's some hope now as U even mentioned the link where U got your tyres from. Just great.
ATB
aRM
I'm glad I could help. You'll have to let me know if it works for you!
Outrageous, I have a 14 inch Laguna bandsaw circa 2002 and it is shaking itself across the shop floor. Where did you find those urethane tires? Laguna said they couldn't help me with new tires as my saw was too old ??? Really good video I am hopeful I can fix my saw.
Boy I really appreciate your video. Do you mount your blade centred on the wheel or centre the gullets like Alex Snodgrass teaches?
Here's a quick tip if you change blades a lot, knock that knob off of the tensioner and there's a 10mm bolt underneath the plastic that you can just stick a socket on and use a screw gun or just crank by hand (way faster). I own the same band saw.
Awesome tip!
I really enjoy how you made your videos on your bandsaw improvements. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome!
I have the same saw. Vibrates due to sheet metal base, and lack of rigidity in the overarm. I am running a one horse motor, and gear reduction to allow metal cutting.
Clever hint ever! Eeven though my band saw is an entry-level model, more suited to the hobby (Einhell BT200), the tip of changing the rubber on the pulleys was great. --->>> THANK YOU !
A lot of times vibrations are coming from the ground up, as the wheels are turning they create vibrations that get absorbed into the ground, and if your saw is sitting directly on the cement floor and if your floor is not dead level, it will telescope back into the machine as it runs, try to install shock absorbers like those installed on air compressors.
You said it wasn't balanced. Did you check for balance on the drive wheels? Seen people do that.
I like the water glass baseline. Great job.
Thanks Jeff.
the other source of your vibration is the base of the machine itself. manufacturers of home gamer equipment have to cheapen them up to get sales. however there are some simple remedies to that problem. there is a reason that cheap machines are light and expensive machines are heavy and that reason is price. *well balanced mass is the determining factor for smooth running*
the first would be to build a complete new base for the machine. its mass should be double or triple that of the saw itself. so for example if the saw weighs 80lbs your base needs to weigh 240lbs. it sounds like overkill but there are harmonics at work here that you can't get away from with the cheap bases
the second option is to add weights into the base cabinet of the machine. that can be steel plates from cutoffs etc from fab shops and whatnot. bricks will work but don't possess the mass density of steel plates. doing this won't eliminate the harmonics that develop in the thin walls of the base but it does take part of the top heavy out of the equation
thirdly, if the machine is on casters: take it off and bolt it to the floor. bandsaws are *EXTREMELY* top heavy and do not perform well when they are mounted to be mobile. just about every popular woodworker channel in youtube has their bandsaw on a mobile base and they all howl about the cut quality... *DUH!!*
finally: tear the machine apart, balance the wheels and replace the bearings. chinese and taiwanese manufacturers like Jet et al use cheap crappy out of round bearing from china that aren't worth luggin' home even if they were free for the taking. get sealed for life SKF, FAG or TImken bearings that are made in USA, Sweden, Germany etc. if they say "made in China" or "made in PRC".. leave them on the shelf regardless of the brand. you'll never get the results you want.
if you have a machine shop at your disposal as i do you can also make a new drive wheel out of steel instead of the cheap pot metal that the factory wheel is made of. again mass makes all the difference.
Man, that is a pile of good advice! Thank you. I believe that opens up a bit of a debate though, for a cheap (or in my case free) saw, how much money is it worth dumping into improvements? Is it better to just spend that money on a better saw. Or do the "better" saws have the same problems?
well there are several ways to approach this:
the first is, if you have the knowledge, skills and tools but most of all the *time* to take a cheap piece of junk and make it into something useful then getting a cheap machine makes good sense.
if however you're a stickler for quality of your own product and the tools you possess then it of course it doesn't.
now you got into your saw as a hand-me-down and so the initial acquisition was essentially zero to you, now you have gone and done several upgrades, so the money you have into the upgrades is essentially what your initial cost is.
your saw is worth about 200 to 300 on the open market based on condition. so if you spend 200 on parts and don't count your labor then you can reasonably expect to recoup your initial investment. if however you're doing this as a business it becomes essential to monetize your time and count it towards the equity value of the machine. so if you have to sink 10 hours @ 15/hr you're already past the threshold when parts are factored in.
but then as a pro you have a different equity schedule you'll be working off of when it comes to lines of credit as you will over-valuating the machinery to the bank in order leverage the highest line of credit. but that's a whole other kettle of fish...
so the bottom line here is if you envision selling the machine later on don't spend any more on parts and machine that would put you over the going market price. breakeven is good, making a profit is gravy
most guys and gals tinkering around in their home shop simply don't have the money to dedicate to buying top quality machinery. however you can get into quality machines if you have access to the internet and watch local and national auctions. i have gotten into my entire collection of machinery thru ebay and have built probably anywhere between 25000 and 40000 in equity on less than a 5000 initial investment because i used certain strategies. also, buying a worn out name brand machine and restoring it can build enormous equity if you play your cards right.
the other aspect is that often times older machines out of german or US manufacture are better running machines even in a worn out state than factory new chinese and taiwanese machines. i can't begin to recount how many times i have experienced this..
now when you do get into a cheap machine and do all the upgrades that make it a decent running machine, be aware that the improvements will not be reflected in a resale price as used machines will only fetch what the market can bear. it's the old adage of polishing a turd...
my dad always said "if you're gonna have equipment you need to know how to work on it and have the tools do so" most people lack the knowledge of how to work on their equipment and kinda fudge their way thru it and with this wonderful resource of youtube they can quickly expand their knowledge base by looking for theme or machine specific advice.
to your second question: no, decent (expensive) saws generally don't have those issues. band saws from sweden and germany that are delivered "ready to run" are exactly that. that's why you're paying a premium price. sadly many german manufacturers have outsourced their production to china (like the brand Optimum) and so you're back to square one if you buy an outsourced machine. the only advantage you have is that the seller has to honor the warranty, and there *WILL* be warranty issues.
the one point i cannot stress enough, and i harped on it ad nauseum in my video review of the festool jigsaw is: *don't skimp on blades* you will not get a $10 cut from a 50 cent blade. buy the best blades you can possibly afford even if it hurts a little. the higher price will more than repay you in longer service life and quality of cut. and again, watch where your tooling comes from. chinese stuff looks really good until you stick a dial indicator on it or a micrometer and start measuring.
the machine is only the implement running the tool. if the tool isn't worth a shit from the onset you will never get a satisfactory result no matter how good of a machine you might have
so spend the bulk of your money on good quality blades...
If you don't already, subscribe to OWWM.org. An absolute plethora of expertise and helpful people are available on this site, in addition to their classified (BOYD) section.
Dude, your a man after my own heart. Finally someone else who actually knows what the hell they are talking about. Fist bump. There is NOTHING sexier than a finely tuned bandsaw. Smooth, quiet and hums like a sewing machine. Most guys dont even begin to know what a good bandsaw is like to run. What saw you got ?
Love the straight shooting advice and as a weekend warrior I have gotten some less than stellar performance from my old 14" Delta with a riser installed. I have to have mine on casters as I have to move it into place when I need to cut longer pieces, I have already build a heavier base with a shelf and drawer. I have added a "ton" of weight by adding old horse shoes and RR track spikes. My next purchase will be better bearings. I have had two seize up already. Do you have any thoughts on the Carter bearing series?
As to the tip of the better blades, could you recommend any specific brand? I get that the better ones will cost more but what do I look for that makes them better? Thanks Pat
Thank you very much for this, it’s going to help me out quite a bit because I have the exact same problems that I would like to fix. You’re very kind to post this for us
Very helpful! Also was not aware of an adjustable length belt or its claim to fame. Wonderful information to be given! Many thanks!
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Hey bud, great video. Thanks for sharing. I just got a brand new 15-20 year old craftsman bandsaw which was also seating collecting dust all these years after the owner finish the project he bought it for. I already realized tires were an immediate change as they literally spun out double their diameter but I didn’t think of the belt which in fact also has 2 U shaped memory spots. I’ll look into that new style of belt you installed.
I had recently got a band saw and the blade tends to wobble a lot. Would you happen to know why? All the wheel guards and tracks are where they should be, is it perhaps its not enough tension on the blade?
Great video !! I recently bought a Harborfreight 14" bandsaw. Is not the best.... I know, but it's what I can to buy. I don't assambled yet. Do you think this tips could help it to has an smoother run ?
What kind of belt is it ??
Thank's for share.
I tried the hot water trick, it didn’t help. I just stretched the new urethane tires on.
The new 3/4” resaw blade was the biggest improvement I made. I’ve got a 6” riser block coming next week.
I tried a link belt on my jointer, which had sat for 10 years, never turned on even once! It removed the horrid vibration, but within 20 minutes was twisting in the pulleys and tearing itself up. I contacted the manufacturer, but they had no answer. I returned it. I followed the directions exactly, and it was on very tight. I'm wondering if it was too tight, as it didn't look like (from the video anyway) you put nearly as much tension on the link belt.
i have no tires on my old craftsman model # 137.224120 is this something i could or should add?
Nice one. We learn something new every day.
I have no idea how I missed this video. It's superb! I need to make a few of these adjustments. Excellent tips!
Well thanks Scott! It certainly made my bandsaw more more fun to use!
i have this exact model ( also blue )
i bought it new and like your grandfather in law dismissed it as junk its been sitting in my shop 20yrs or better , yesterday i decided id give it a 2nd look b4 i sold it for a new one
ive yet to do any of the things you've done but a huge improvement was lining up the miter gauge slot with the drift of the blade it had an incredible impact
now im dying for more improvements
thanks for the video 👍
I would run the bandsaw without a blade on, then without the drive belt to see where the vibration originates. Also, is the blade welded properly? I have seen videos of people grinding the back of the blade with a dremmel to achieve even contact with the thrust bearing...
This is a really useful video I now have an idea of what to look for to help my similar problem...thanks.
Some excellent info here, great video! Liked and subscribed, I look forward to more of your content!
Some good tips there. For me I find the blade makes a lot of difference to vibration, with all things being equal, some blades just seem to cause more vibration than others.
Another source of vibration can be the weld on the blade. The back edge of the blade should be honed with a coarse sharpening stone. While the saw is running, take the stone and hold it against the back of the blade and angle it back and forth to create a slight radius.
Good advice, I'll have to give that a try.
Unplug the machine first and always. I like the old lower belt shape being out of round!! Nice job!!
Dude this is one of the best videos I have seen. And the more awesome part is that u opened up the whole machine. so simply. the toothbrush trick was awwhhsom ...
Awaiting more videos.
I've tried to adjust my bandsaw several times without success.
I've tried everything but I have not change the tires yet.
Until now, when I turn the wheel by hand without the blade, there is no problem, turns well.
But when I install the blade and I tighten it, it feels like it has a "hard point" that brakes the wheel a little bit and when I turn on the machine, blade twists and I cannot make a straight cut.
What could be the solution for this?
Thanks for any help.
Thank you I will work on my tomorrow, as my bandsaw sat for probably 5 years
Really good presentation, no BS. Good useful info.
just got a band saw, and this video was great for me . thank you.great vid.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
So what made the Most difference, in correcting the vibration ? The Blade, the Belt, the Guide Blocks, the Urethane Wheel Belts. Maybe adjustents ?
Nicely done video !
I did a test between each step for my own piece of mind and it seemed like the tires and the belt both split about half the credit for removing the vibration.
My 1960’s 14” Eagle Tools bandsaw (no relation the the ‘Eagle Tools’ brand in California) looks identical to your old Jet model. I’m looking to buy a 6” riser for it but cannot find any information about my machine online. I know almost all of the old 14” bandsaws were built in Taiwan by a small handful of companies back then so although it’s a crapshoot, I’d imagine your old Jet was as well. Can you tell me what model yours is? Hopefully I can order the same riser for mine as you have on yours and pray the guide/set pins line up exactly. Thanks!
I've been adjusting my fence to account for blade drift every time I change the blade, but I finally learned about setting the wheel tilt so that it's riding right in the middle of the tire. Too far back and it drifts left, too far forward it drifts right.
oxwilder and how long did it take you to work that out!!!
Great work!! How do you like that Kreg fence?
Thanks,
Adam
Is that self made band saw?
Excellent video and process. Great info in the comment section. Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
What fence is that your running or have you up graded since?
You made some points I have not seen before. Very helpful video.
I like your tip at the end, but I would rather adjust the tracking than put the fence out of square, although that entails adjustments of the guide bushes/ bearings. Interesting video. I’d check the motor pulley. They can be off centre if they are cheapos. There’s nothing like a new blade to reduce drift.
I know this is an older post so hopefully you are still answering and following. I have what looks to be the same bandsaw. 14" Jet. I am def going to try your fix, my vibrations are crazy like yours, prob even worse. One thing I really noticed though that you didn't mention and I hope you can help is you have a KREGG fence. The fence I have with the saw totally sux, where did you get it and how did you get it to work on the rails. TIA
Hey Brian, good eye - that is the Kreg fence. It comes with a rail that bolts to the front of the saw. If I remember right, its meant to work with a bunch of different saws.
I have a new Jet bandsaw and after the first day of use I noticed the same build up on the urethane tires (both wheels even the bottom one with a brush) I tried a lot of different things to clean it/get it off but it didnt completely take it off- Theres still a lot of rough bumps through out the tires. Why would the saw dust build up do that so soon and what could I do to remove it after it is already caked on. This was literally the first time I used it so I really dont see myself replacing the tires on it for years to come. I was kind of puzzled to see it happen so fast. Any insight would greatly be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't really have a good answer for removing the dust that's already packed on. I know that the best way to prevent it would be to have really good dust collection pull the dust away before it gets a chance to be compressed between the blade and the tire.
You did a great job. Thanks for all of the useful information!
Nice simple way to adjust the fence.
I added bolt washers via epoxy to the wheels to balance them and that also helps
thanks for the new belt and tune up ideas.
What was that blue piece used to make a straight line towards the end of the video?
fyi you should glue the urethane tires down over time the elasticity will be gone and could cause the tires to break the cast aluminum wheels. also 3 phase motors run smoother. try a horse matt from tractor supply to put under the bandsaw to see if that helps as well. good video though!
Thanks for the tips Brandon.
La cierra es con conexión eléctrica?
Thanks. I have the same saw with 6" extension, with the same vibration. I thought that was as good as it gets.
Another video i seen they say the wheels have to be glued on (I don’t see why ) but the guy was very knowledgeable , your thoughts ? I just got mine so im a newbie with it lol but it also vibrates alot its a craftsman
Great video, how do you like the kreg fence?
I've been a big fan. It is solid, but still lifts right off if I need to get it out of the way.
Clear illustration
I'm looking to buy my first bandsaw. I am limited to a 10" saw (as opposed to 14" for reasons of space, weight and budget).
I'm currently trying to decide between the WEN 3962, which has a 6" clearance (but 3.5 amp motor), and a Rikon 10-306 which has a better motor at 5.5 amps, but only a 5" depth.
Any recommendations?
Yes. Go on craigslist and wait for a 14 inch like his Jet to show up used for the price of a WEN brand new. You will find one.
Great video, how was the vibration after the new tires .... just before the new belt :)
I would say it reduced it by about half. I thought the tires would make the biggest difference, but it really seems like doing both was necessary.