There is a very good video here called "Bandsaw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass" . It is the best tutorial that I have ever seen. In it he explains why planar alignment of the wheels is not important. They are designed to be out of alignment. Having said that, congratulations on the good video and the work that you have done in improving this machine.
My absolute favourite RUclips woodworker. I am humbled in the presence of such greatness. Words fail me. Its like everything I thought I ever knew pales in comparison. I am not worthy to witness such greatness yet something draws me back, an irresistible pull. Many have tried but none can match that exquisite quintessence of all that makes the Wandel woodshop special. Nobody Does Bandsaw like Matthias. He is the God emperor of bandsaw wisdom. His competitors are as dust and ashes in comparison. Teach me Lord Mathias in your ways. I will no longer fear those who dare to question your word. Stand back you dogs ! Speak to us master.
I always learn so much from your videos no matter what the project is you are working on. Your intelligent approach to problem solving as well as your pragmatic approach to getting the job done is inspiring
I have a cheap bandsaw that needed a new tire but it is not worth the $30 + shipping to buy "proper" replacements. I went to our local thrift store and purchased solid leather belts to make tires the "old fashioned way" (?). The leather was 5/32" thick and the belts were $1.00 each. I can get two tires strips from one belt and I cut them to fit between the ridges of my band saw wheels. I glued the leather tire to the rim with a silicone type adhesive (Shoe Goop), rolled the rim so that the tire laid evenly around the rim, taped it to hold everything in place and left it 24 hours. I then installed and tested and it worked great. I did not bother crowning as the other wheel is crowned and it was easy to track as is. Time will tell if all stays well but the repair was cheap and easy and that is what I wanted..
I wasn't looking for such a good education, but I got it anyway! Excellent breakdown of all the parts of a simple bandsaw... much easier to see the things that can go out of whack. Thanks!
Finally, after all these years, I finally found someone more meticulous than myself. Enjoyed watching you work. I like the precision you strive for. Keep up the good work, and thank you for the video.
I also received a small cheap band saw for free because my uncle found it to be more trouble than its worth. thanks to you its running very well now, looking at all your videos gave me excellent insight into how these tings should work. For the pulley tires i just used a hard leather strip which i milled into a crown and that seemed to work well.
I have never done any type work that relates to your videos (I'm a scientist), but for some reason I enjoy watching them. I've been subscribed for over a year now and I still get happy when I see your videos pop up in my subscription box.
I just got a three wheel 16" Delta band saw ( cast iron frame ) and after I found some tires for it I found it set up really well. I had one of those band saws from CT...I'm happy to say I chucket in the garbage. I enjoy your videos Thanks
I just used your tip on electrical tape to fix my bandsaw. I picked up a larger saw for free but it had no tires and no motor. I have plenty of adjustment travel so the number of wraps was not critical (it runs a 78 inch blade). Even so, I used three wraps and it works great! I also have the same saw in your video made by Ryobi - another freebie from a retiring co-worker. He used silicone to make his own bandsaw tires.
this was one of the most fun and awesome videos I've seen regarding refurbishing power tools. I got the 9 inch Mastercraft at a garage sale this weekend and it had poor and busted tires. Going to try the electrical tape tomorrow Very nice vid!
Totally love your videos. For getting the wheel running perfectly round you should consider using a grinding attachment for a dremel (or similar) and grind the surface while the wheel is spinning. That should eliminate the wobble almost completly.
I have a bandsaw that my dad left me when he moved to Az. and it's missing that bottom wheel rubber piece, I'm going to try that with the tape. Thanks for that idea. On a different note, after seeing this video, I decided to check out my other bandsaw that looks like the one you have here. It never seemed to cut right and I discovered that about 3yrs ago I had put the blade on with theeth facing the wrong direction, points up, not down. Cuts great now. Thanks for the video... LOL.
Hi 12345NoNamesLeft, I agree. I've made aluminum washers just as you've described several times in the past. Very stable and works great. Matthias is a RUclips icon, no doubt. But, I have to say this... The process he used to remove metal from the lower pulley/wheel on the band saw is called "Turning", not Milling as he stated in the video. His first attempt at turning is called "Gouging". ;o)
wow, the cutting tool incident scared me slightly. but hats off to you sir, you put a lot of time and effort into getting the saw to run correctly. thank you for the suggestions and ideas to tune up my P.O.S. Ryobi 9inch(22.86 cm) band saw.
you can put your plastic "shim/washer" material between two pieces of wood and drill straight through instead of using the hole puncher....just an after thought.
Loved the tuneup. I have a ten inch Sears that could use a tuneup just like this. Just a tip for the shim you mounted. A touch of thick grease or vaseline will stick the shim for truly blind spots making it a lot easier to deal with. Great vid!
another thing that would have worked good for removing some material on the wheel would be a thin strip of emery cloth(or even some sand paper on a wood block pushed in there), being an aluminum wheel its soft enough to sand down. Matthias you are a true icon in the field of fixing and re-purposing tools to make a more accurate instrument. truly something that has been lost it seems over generations as todays society says "if it doesnt work right throw it out!".
Thanks, I learned from this video. I recently purchased a 10" Craftsman Band Saw at a yard sale. It works but I seem to throw the blade easily. After watching this video, I went out to the garage and examined the blade guides. The lower guide had the left side completely missing and the right one loose. That explains that problem. Now to replace the blade with more set so I can make tighter curves. Thanks!
He is talking about "tooth set". If you look at most saw blades, the teeth protrude out of the plane of the blade body. This has advantages by clearing chips, and preventing heat build-up from friction as the blade body passes through the wood. It also allows for curves to be cut, since the set of the tooth allows it. Since "tooth set" increases the width of the cut, and hence the load on the motor, saws this small often don't have much tooth set on their blades.
Someone dumped one of those behind our warehouse and the only thing wrong with it ' was the lower wheel belt like yours. I have a 12" band saw so I make my craftsman into a 1" belt sander which woks amazingly well. I may modify it so I can use bigger belts and cut them into 1" strips (saves money). Always enjoy your videos. Cheers
Thanks for clearing that up. The squishiness makes the tape not suitable (it's under constant pressure when the bandsaw is stopped), and the price not cost effective.
when you go to mount the motor with the upper bolts holding your shims, use two long studs in the bottom holes to start your motor in alignment in the bottom holes and it will all lign up. if you had to shim in any other plane use the longer bolts in the un shimmed holes. best of luck Matthias!
i have similar saw from maybe 5 years, and really is no bad. 350W 240V motor, 1450mm blade. I cut lot of briar wood on, and is tough staf. I uses it to make some curves cuts you can see some on my fb kropiwno 47 and JSG Pipes art sites, and is no bad. I often need to make some small repairing but work good enough.
I am unfamiliar with Harbor Freight Company, but Canadian Tire is a kind of general tool, Automotive, and Hardware store. They specialize in Automotive parts, Tools for automotive and Woodworking craft, Plumbing and Electrical, Kitchen Wares, Gardening stuff, Fishing, Hunting and Outdoor activities. Kind of a generalist place thought, nothing exceptionally high quality, a moderate selection, and they don't sell major building materials. It's a good place for the average handyman to go.
I believe RentAnEducation means self vulcanising tape. You stretch it and it starts vulcanizing (rubber starts polymerizing) and so becomes one solid body. I have used it to cover mast spreader screws with great success
The tape he's talking about, (I think), is actually silicone. I use it for taping up a florescent bulb I use at work. I've found when electrical tape gets hot the adhesive lets go and creates a gummy mess when you try to re-tape it. So if heats a concern for you it's worth considering. I've seen it for $10 - $20 a roll from Uline, or MSC It is thick and squishy so the blade may dig into it and shred the tape though.
I also did all you have done and more. That 3 screws are not enough or not needed. It's a real bad design though I did use it for years for aluminum mainly. I also removed the 3 6 mm bolts and made a new shaft with a wider spacer. No matter what I do, I rum out of patient before I fix it. May be its time to buy a better one.
We were using duct tape as a tire for a 8ft blade bandsaw for about 6 months. Its however a metal sheet cutting bandsaw so it only spins at about 130-175sfpm. It was fine though .
Hi.....like this helpful video as I'm very practical too. I've just ordered a Silver line bandsaw at the cheapest price....looks just like this one. will be using mainly for shape cutting no more than half inch to an inch thick. will be putting a Draft blade on as soon as it arrives. I have number of lower priced tools that do perfect jobs! thanks once again for video.
Harbor Freight in US is more like Princess Auto in Canada. Canadian tire is leaning more towards housewares and general merchandise, more like Sears now than the hardware store it started as .
There was a screw hole on the bandsaw case adkacent to where you were using the cutter head. If you had mounted a bolt at that location, it would have made a nice tool rest.
Just one constructive criticism Matthias. Your use of the puller was incorrect. You should tighten the screw, then tap the end of it to break the hold. To keep on winding the screw with the wrench, risks damaging the motor shaft. The video was entertaining and informative as always.
Gee, that thing is SO much better than the Craftsman Tilting head band saw that you trashed. I can't believe you were willing to put some work into this little POC and not into the Craftsman saw.
The Craftsman saw is fatally flawed. One could bring it back to like new specs and it would still have a fairly low mtbf to say nothing of the problems of multiple degrees of freedom, and servicing headaches. The Canadian Tire units problem is not so much the basic design as it is the huge tolerance bands in manufacturing... Its a cheap and simple field upgrade.
This was a very useful video as I have a bandsaw almost identical to yours. The biggest problem with this is that it never cuts in a straight line but always veers off at an angle. Any thoughts on why it might be doing this would be great, I have ordered a wider blade to see if that solve the problem.
+B0M0A0K Check the blade tension. There is a blade tensioning video on youtube that tells how yo "pluck" a blade, and tell tension by the tone that is produced. Also, drift is caused by a blade worn on one side, from hitting metal in the wood or by misalignment of the guide inserts. Adjust the inserts and try a new blade.
I have a simpler size bandsaw with same problem. Solution is to aline the blade so it tracks 90 to the wheel. The guides also have to be at the same angle.
just watched this following fettling a very similar bandsaw. Wish I had seen this video first. I'd noticed that it was not much good at cutting curves but not figured out the reason.
when you use the dial to check wheel maybe mark area thats low and put on a bit of tape to build up before putting on final continuous strip .Just a thought
Pulley wobbling is probably caused by the way the centre hole is machined before they insert the bearings, or it could be a distorted pulley itself and doesn't mean it's a fault, only a product defect. Better to wobble a little sideways than up and down.
When fitting the shims ,a piece of tape onto the shim either side would keep it in place without altering the shim thickness.Still proceed with the bolts through first but now you won't push the shim off as easily.
On that band saw wheel being a little out of round, what if you put a partial wrap of electrical tape on the low spot and then do a complete wrap with the idea of "shimming up " the low spot
Uh.... yeh the place you put the vice grip with cutting tool gets narrower as the wheel turns downward.... use a file or stone and a safe rest and you can grave it even a hack saw blade might do it
OMG I HAVE THAT SAME HOLE PUNCH! I thought I would never see anyone with one like it ever, because all the hole punches in stores are those long black metal dealies. I don't know why, but that made me excited..... :-P
nice vid! I just bought a mastercraft 6'' jointer on sale for 150. The tables are not adjustable other than hieght for the infeed, and they aren't completely parallel. There is only one corner that is high by about 1\32''. I end up planing the first half then nothing at the end, (like a wedge.) Im thinking about sanding down the bad spot. I always feel like I'm playing the lottery with buying stuff at CT, but Ive won a few times lol..
turning the wheel by hand? that was pretty dangerous lol I liked it :) ... I did something similar but is spun up the wheel and used some heavy sandpaper and pressed it against the wheel track with a wooden dowel. take care
I have a Spectra Tools bandsaw that is nearly identical to this one. Having so much trouble trying to get the blade tension correct to keep the blade on. If I get the tension right then the wheel hits the screws on the case behind it. So frustrating. Haven't seen any bandsaw remotely like it until this one.
Any wheel variations are fairly irrelevant as long as the blade tracks on the tire correctly. That tire, with it's curved/convex surface (crown), is critical for proper blade tracking since the top of that crown (not the wheel itself) is where the blade actually rides. Protecting that crown is the primary reason for reducing blade tension between tool use. Remove your electrical tape and buy a proper band saw tire (diameter & width). Will also reduce blade wear and noise.
Late comment, but I wonder if self-almalgimating electrical tape would be preferable. It doesn't really stick to anything but itself however it's quite rubbery and multiple layers would form a unified single tyre. It's best applied under slight tension which might make it difficult to maintain an even thickness.
Thanks a million! Haven't viewed it yet but had to mention my MC bandsaw purchase yesterday, cuts veer badly to the rightso this video couldn't have come at a better time. I tried everything and finally solved the problem by altering the kerf on one side of the blade!! I'm afraid watching this video will make me feel quite dumb...
Good information in this video. The techniques are simple but effective. The zero clearance plate is very nice. Can you post a video about how you made that Table Saw Sled?
Your enthusiasm for this work is very pleasant to watch. Your tinkering is really top notch.
There is a very good video here called "Bandsaw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass" . It is the best tutorial that I have ever seen. In it he explains why planar alignment of the wheels is not important. They are designed to be out of alignment. Having said that, congratulations on the good video and the work that you have done in improving this machine.
My absolute favourite RUclips woodworker. I am humbled in the presence of such greatness. Words fail me. Its like everything I thought I ever knew pales in comparison.
I am not worthy to witness such greatness yet something draws me back, an irresistible pull. Many have tried but none can match that exquisite quintessence of all that makes the Wandel woodshop special. Nobody Does Bandsaw like Matthias. He is the God emperor of bandsaw wisdom. His competitors are as dust and ashes in comparison.
Teach me Lord Mathias in your ways. I will no longer fear those who dare to question your word.
Stand back you dogs !
Speak to us master.
I always learn so much from your videos no matter what the project is you are working on. Your intelligent approach to problem solving as well as your pragmatic approach to getting the job done is inspiring
I have a cheap bandsaw that needed a new tire but it is not worth the $30 + shipping to buy "proper" replacements. I went to our local thrift store and purchased solid leather belts to make tires the "old fashioned way" (?). The leather was 5/32" thick and the belts were $1.00 each. I can get two tires strips from one belt and I cut them to fit between the ridges of my band saw wheels. I glued the leather tire to the rim with a silicone type adhesive (Shoe Goop), rolled the rim so that the tire laid evenly around the rim, taped it to hold everything in place and left it 24 hours. I then installed and tested and it worked great. I did not bother crowning as the other wheel is crowned and it was easy to track as is. Time will tell if all stays well but the repair was cheap and easy and that is what I wanted..
.Thanks for sharing that info going to try it myself.
Thanks. Worth keeping in mind 👍
Peter Tyrrell did it hold up?
I wasn't looking for such a good education, but I got it anyway! Excellent breakdown of all the parts of a simple bandsaw... much easier to see the things that can go out of whack. Thanks!
Thanks Matthias, I got an old Einhell saw from my son, and your video provided all the help I needed to fix it up again.
Finally, after all these years, I finally found someone more meticulous than myself. Enjoyed watching you work. I like the precision you strive for. Keep up the good work, and thank you for the video.
I also received a small cheap band saw for free because my uncle found it to be more trouble than its worth. thanks to you its running very well now, looking at all your videos gave me excellent insight into how these tings should work. For the pulley tires i just used a hard leather strip which i milled into a crown and that seemed to work well.
I have never done any type work that relates to your videos (I'm a scientist), but for some reason I enjoy watching them. I've been subscribed for over a year now and I still get happy when I see your videos pop up in my subscription box.
I just got a three wheel 16" Delta band saw ( cast iron frame ) and after I found some tires for it I found it set up really well. I had one of those band saws from CT...I'm happy to say I chucket in the garbage. I enjoy your videos Thanks
"thats cus i got it for free" *flick of the wrist and smug look* I WAS DYING.
This is the third episode of this channel I watch this morning!!
I just used your tip on electrical tape to fix my bandsaw. I picked up a larger saw for free but it had no tires and no motor. I have plenty of adjustment travel so the number of wraps was not critical (it runs a 78 inch blade). Even so, I used three wraps and it works great! I also have the same saw in your video made by Ryobi - another freebie from a retiring co-worker. He used silicone to make his own bandsaw tires.
Mathias will one day make a viable metal lathe from primarily wood. Been enjoying your videos for years. Thank you for them
It's amazing how much that Canadian Tire saw looks like my little Ryobi. Probably share lots of parts too. hahaha
Probably the same blueprint and pumped out of the same factories.
this was one of the most fun and awesome videos I've seen regarding refurbishing power tools. I got the 9 inch Mastercraft at a garage sale this weekend and it had poor and busted tires. Going to try the electrical tape tomorrow
Very nice vid!
Do read the linked article as well
Canadian Tire saw, President's Choice pop bottle. Oh Canada. Greetings from Winnipeg.
Totally love your videos. For getting the wheel running perfectly round you should consider using a grinding attachment for a dremel (or similar) and grind the surface while the wheel is spinning. That should eliminate the wobble almost completly.
I have a bandsaw that my dad left me when he moved to Az. and it's missing that bottom wheel rubber piece, I'm going to try that with the tape. Thanks for that idea. On a different note, after seeing this video, I decided to check out my other bandsaw that looks like the one you have here. It never seemed to cut right and I discovered that about 3yrs ago I had put the blade on with theeth facing the wrong direction, points up, not down. Cuts great now. Thanks for the video... LOL.
Hi 12345NoNamesLeft,
I agree. I've made aluminum washers just as you've described several times in the past. Very stable and works great.
Matthias is a RUclips icon, no doubt. But, I have to say this...
The process he used to remove metal from the lower pulley/wheel on the band saw is called "Turning", not Milling as he stated in the video. His first attempt at turning is called "Gouging". ;o)
wow, the cutting tool incident scared me slightly. but hats off to you sir, you put a lot of time and effort into getting the saw to run correctly. thank you for the suggestions and ideas to tune up my P.O.S. Ryobi 9inch(22.86 cm) band saw.
you can put your plastic "shim/washer" material between two pieces of wood and drill straight through instead of using the hole puncher....just an after thought.
justin barrett totally . I was wondering why he didn't use a drill of the correct size. and a metal file to true up the wheel.
Loved the tuneup. I have a ten inch Sears that could use a tuneup just like this. Just a tip for the shim you mounted. A touch of thick grease or vaseline will stick the shim for truly blind spots making it a lot easier to deal with. Great vid!
another thing that would have worked good for removing some material on the wheel would be a thin strip of emery cloth(or even some sand paper on a wood block pushed in there), being an aluminum wheel its soft enough to sand down. Matthias you are a true icon in the field of fixing and re-purposing tools to make a more accurate instrument. truly something that has been lost it seems over generations as todays society says "if it doesnt work right throw it out!".
Thank Matthias. You inspire me to tune up my cheap bandsaw.
Hi Matthias, this mini band-saw it seams to be a great copy of my discontinued “Delta 28-180” band-saw.
Thanks, I learned from this video. I recently purchased a 10" Craftsman Band Saw at a yard sale. It works but I seem to throw the blade easily. After watching this video, I went out to the garage and examined the blade guides. The lower guide had the left side completely missing and the right one loose. That explains that problem. Now to replace the blade with more set so I can make tighter curves. Thanks!
He is talking about "tooth set".
If you look at most saw blades, the teeth protrude out of the plane of the blade body. This has advantages by clearing chips, and preventing heat build-up from friction as the blade body passes through the wood. It also allows for curves to be cut, since the set of the tooth allows it. Since "tooth set" increases the width of the cut, and hence the load on the motor, saws this small often don't have much tooth set on their blades.
Wheel wobble causes variation in tension, and that causes a lot of vibration.
I just got this exact saw given to me, also with a missing tire -- Thanks for showing me how to set it up!
Your generally pretty much a genius but I was stunned at how daft an idea pliars and cutter idea was. Glad it's not wedged in your head, stay safe!
Someone dumped one of those behind our warehouse and the only thing wrong with it ' was the lower wheel belt like yours. I have a 12" band saw so I make my craftsman into a 1" belt sander which woks amazingly well. I may modify it so I can use bigger belts and cut them into 1" strips (saves money). Always enjoy your videos. Cheers
A gasket punch set works more cleanly for making round holes in stuff like pop bottle plastic.
Thanks for clearing that up. The squishiness makes the tape not suitable (it's under constant pressure when the bandsaw is stopped), and the price not cost effective.
Hey, what I did worked, and took less time.
One of the better videos on fixing and tuning. Thanks!
when you go to mount the motor with the upper bolts holding your shims, use two long studs in the bottom holes to start your motor in alignment in the bottom holes and it will all lign up. if you had to shim in any other plane use the longer bolts in the un shimmed holes. best of luck Matthias!
I have the same saw but brand is Power Max. With a tune up its does my bandsaw needs just fine, thanks for the ideas.
Amazing. A dial indicator, Wow. Thank you for the electrical tape idea. Saved me 33 euros! Did you try duck tape?
Love your homemade band saw.
I love your videos and work, but man, the FIRST thing I would have done after opening up the case is vacuum it out!
I ave about 1/8 thickness of electrical tape on mine for years now. Just make sure you wrap more in the center to crown it some.
Like your video. Like the way you manage things. Marvellous. Finding easy solutions for most of the problems. Congratulations.
"Thou" I love the way he says it
Where can you buy a blade for these small 6 inch band saws. I have one but I can't buy any new blades for it. Help
i have similar saw from maybe 5 years, and really is no bad. 350W 240V motor, 1450mm blade. I cut lot of briar wood on, and is tough staf. I uses it to make some curves cuts you can see some on my fb kropiwno 47 and JSG Pipes art sites, and is no bad. I often need to make some small repairing but work good enough.
I am unfamiliar with Harbor Freight Company, but Canadian Tire is a kind of general tool, Automotive, and Hardware store. They specialize in Automotive parts, Tools for automotive and Woodworking craft, Plumbing and Electrical, Kitchen Wares, Gardening stuff, Fishing, Hunting and Outdoor activities. Kind of a generalist place thought, nothing exceptionally high quality, a moderate selection, and they don't sell major building materials. It's a good place for the average handyman to go.
Thank you! This was a big help to tune up the benchtop bandsaw I just picked up.
Great to see making a custom insert for the saw. My cheap band saw needs a new insert too.
I believe RentAnEducation means self vulcanising tape. You stretch it and it starts vulcanizing (rubber starts polymerizing) and so becomes one solid body. I have used it to cover mast spreader screws with great success
The tape he's talking about, (I think), is actually silicone. I use it for taping up a florescent bulb I use at work. I've found when electrical tape gets hot the adhesive lets go and creates a gummy mess when you try to re-tape it. So if heats a concern for you it's worth considering. I've seen it for $10 - $20 a roll from Uline, or MSC It is thick and squishy so the blade may dig into it and shred the tape though.
Got mine for 25$ , and your video was very helpful to get it running again. Thank's !
Good to know it lasts. I already had a crown on the rim, so didn't need to make one with the tape.
Aluminium soda pop cans make nice shims too.
Plastic can deform as you tighten and disintegrate/oxidize over time- the aluminum is more stable.
I also did all you have done and more. That 3 screws are not enough or not needed. It's a real bad design though I did use it for years for aluminum mainly. I also removed the 3 6 mm bolts and made a new shaft with a wider spacer. No matter what I do, I rum out of patient before I fix it.
May be its time to buy a better one.
سلام استاد مهربان و با سخاوت
مثل همیشه عالی عالی کامل قوی فنی حرفه ای
ممنون
با احترام
فرزین
We were using duct tape as a tire for a 8ft blade bandsaw for about 6 months. Its however a metal sheet cutting bandsaw so it only spins at about 130-175sfpm. It was fine though .
Hi.....like this helpful video as I'm very practical too. I've just ordered a Silver line bandsaw at the cheapest price....looks just like this one. will be using mainly for shape cutting no more than half inch to an inch thick. will be putting a Draft blade on as soon as it arrives. I have number of lower priced tools that do perfect jobs! thanks once again for video.
Very helpful. I just picked up one for $20 & it needed a tune-up
Tip.. use tab of grease to hold shim stock..great vid as always
nice little bandsaw, would come in real handy :) my band saw is vibrating so much now I can't really tell where the blade is going to start cutting
Harbor Freight in US is more like Princess Auto in Canada.
Canadian tire is leaning more towards housewares and general merchandise, more like Sears now than the hardware store it started as .
There was a screw hole on the bandsaw case adkacent to where you were using the cutter head. If you had mounted a bolt at that location, it would have made a nice tool rest.
The run outs on the wheel are pretty close for a cheap tool. You should get a metal lathe. I think you would do well with it.
Just one constructive criticism Matthias.
Your use of the puller was incorrect. You should tighten the screw, then tap the end of it to break the hold.
To keep on winding the screw with the wrench, risks damaging the motor shaft.
The video was entertaining and informative as always.
Gee, that thing is SO much better than the Craftsman Tilting head band saw that you trashed. I can't believe you were willing to put some work into this little POC and not into the Craftsman saw.
The Craftsman saw is fatally flawed. One could bring it back to like new specs and it would still have a fairly low mtbf to say nothing of the problems of multiple degrees of freedom, and servicing headaches. The Canadian Tire units problem is not so much the basic design as it is the huge tolerance bands in manufacturing... Its a cheap and simple field upgrade.
You can hear the engine power in Watts?
MUDHD o
This was a very useful video as I have a bandsaw almost identical to yours. The biggest problem with this is that it never cuts in a straight line but always veers off at an angle. Any thoughts on why it might be doing this would be great, I have ordered a wider blade to see if that solve the problem.
+B0M0A0K Look up "bandsaw resawing" on my website
+Matthias Wandel Thank you for taking the time to reply Matthias, much appreciated.
+B0M0A0K Check the blade tension. There is a blade tensioning video on youtube that tells how yo "pluck" a blade, and tell tension by the tone that is produced. Also, drift is caused by a blade worn on one side, from hitting metal in the wood or by misalignment of the guide inserts. Adjust the inserts and try a new blade.
I have a simpler size bandsaw with same problem. Solution is to aline the blade so it tracks 90 to the wheel. The guides also have to be at the same angle.
Thanks. Nice analysis and mods.
just watched this following fettling a very similar bandsaw. Wish I had seen this video first. I'd noticed that it was not much good at cutting curves but not figured out the reason.
when you use the dial to check wheel maybe mark area thats low and put on a bit of tape to build up before putting on final continuous strip .Just a thought
Thank you for using the metric system!
He's Canadian, that's why.
why doesn't the us use the metric system for everything, not only in space
Pulley wobbling is probably caused by the way the centre hole is machined before they insert the bearings, or it could be a distorted pulley itself and doesn't mean it's a fault, only a product defect. Better to wobble a little sideways than up and down.
Thank you Matthias. This was a very interesting and informative video. 👍
you continue to amaze and entertain me. Hats off once again.
Dang... I want a free bandsaw. Or heck, a free ANYTHING for woodworking lol
Heck i dont even have wood
Have a cheap 9" Ryobi bandsaw. Thanks for the video showing what a good tune-up will do! I will have a go myself :)
When fitting the shims ,a piece of tape onto the shim either side would keep it in place without altering the shim thickness.Still proceed with the bolts through first but now you won't push the shim off as easily.
The replacement tires (urethane belts on the wheels) for your saw are found on Ebay for only $15 for both.:-)
For all the projects you do, you really should get a metal lathe :)
On that band saw wheel being a little out of round, what if you put a partial wrap of electrical tape on the low spot and then do a complete wrap with the idea of "shimming up " the low spot
Uh.... yeh the place you put the vice grip with cutting tool gets narrower as the wheel turns downward.... use a file or stone and a safe rest and you can grave it even a hack saw blade might do it
Your skills are very impressive.
Hi Mathias, For a tire I wonder if a slice from an inner tube would work. Like a large rubber band. Stretch it over the tire.
Insert thug life meme at 0:05. Jesus Christ man, you're fuckin savage XD
Thanks for the tip with the electrical tape, I'm gonna used that on my 9" Roybi band saw.
You can drill a proper sized hole through thin plastic by clamping the plastic between two pieces of wood and drilling through the sandwich.
Eight years later I'm wondering if you still have this thing.
it's in my dad's old shop. The top tire (the one I didn't replace with tape) failed, so that one should be replaced with tape too.
@@matthiaswandel Oh cool, thanks for the response!
Sometimes those wheels are not co-planed for a reason. Not sure if this is the case with yours but thanks for video
OMG I HAVE THAT SAME HOLE PUNCH! I thought I would never see anyone with one like it ever, because all the hole punches in stores are those long black metal dealies. I don't know why, but that made me excited..... :-P
Thanks for this video, now I hope I could possibly improve my cheap bandsaw.
nice vid! I just bought a mastercraft 6'' jointer on sale for 150. The tables are not adjustable other than hieght for the infeed, and they aren't completely parallel. There is only one corner that is high by about 1\32''. I end up planing the first half then nothing at the end, (like a wedge.) Im thinking about sanding down the bad spot. I always feel like I'm playing the lottery with buying stuff at CT, but Ive won a few times lol..
turning the wheel by hand? that was pretty dangerous lol I liked it :) ... I did something similar but is spun up the wheel and used some heavy sandpaper and pressed it against the wheel track with a wooden dowel. take care
I have a Spectra Tools bandsaw that is nearly identical to this one. Having so much trouble trying to get the blade tension correct to keep the blade on. If I get the tension right then the wheel hits the screws on the case behind it. So frustrating. Haven't seen any bandsaw remotely like it until this one.
Rubber electrical tape is self sealing, longer lasting than plastic tape and only a little more expensive. Available at most hardware stores.
Sorry, but I laughed out loud on your first milling attempt. Glad you weren't hurt.
Let's do it again LOL
badlandskid yeah, I'd have used a metal file and come in from the direction he did on his 2nd try.
i already laughed when he said "safely secured in my vice grip" ^^
Any wheel variations are fairly irrelevant as long as the blade tracks on the tire correctly. That tire, with it's curved/convex surface (crown), is critical for proper blade tracking since the top of that crown (not the wheel itself) is where the blade actually rides. Protecting that crown is the primary reason for reducing blade tension between tool use. Remove your electrical tape and buy a proper band saw tire (diameter & width). Will also reduce blade wear and noise.
Late comment, but I wonder if self-almalgimating electrical tape would be preferable. It doesn't really stick to anything but itself however it's quite rubbery and multiple layers would form a unified single tyre.
It's best applied under slight tension which might make it difficult to maintain an even thickness.
too sofr
Thanks a million! Haven't viewed it yet but had to mention my MC bandsaw purchase yesterday, cuts veer badly to the rightso this video couldn't have come at a better time. I tried everything and finally solved the problem by altering the kerf on one side of the blade!! I'm afraid watching this video will make me feel quite dumb...
Good information in this video. The techniques are simple but effective. The zero clearance plate is very nice. Can you post a video about how you made that Table Saw Sled?
jsut google it so many designs for table sleds.