This is EXACTLY what I (mostly) figured out on my own after buying and destroying new blades with my blade guides for years. Thanks for explaining it so clearly.
Great video explaining the basic . To the person that commented on his little ripper product, before you make a comment spend the time, money and content for your own channel then you can advertise what you want . If he has invented it and it is his channel he s entitled to advertise and from what I can see the product seems to work well good on you. Greatly appreciated
Ethen speaks the truth. I saw thin panels for ukulele fronts and backs. The Little Ripper has made this much easier and produced much more consistent results than a tall fence. The tall fence was great for making panels that ended up concave or convex and with uneven thickness. But I needed flat panels. The little ripper really improved my yield.
That is interesting. I actually resaw thin panels for harps, and Im using fence with good results. And I was just thinking if this could work for thin and long panels. This looks for me like a good jig - but for small and short logs, like from fire wood and so on... I cant imagine that Iam resawing piece what is 100x30x1,5cm ... ? Tomas
A lot of folks use the Little Ripper strictly to resaw! Here’s a video showing how to set it up to do that - ruclips.net/video/VeuALqx1uAA/видео.htmlsi=igBBTX_SunMawYxs
@@HarmonieZvuku-harfy-kalimby I saw log quarters that are 48” long using two tracks end to end and two carriages. The logs were a bit wobbly with a single carriage because of the unsupported length. For ukuleles that is plenty of length, and a bit more than one meter (39”). See my video on “SN008 demo and reprise”. A snippet shows the panel sawing
Thank you for your wonderful description of blade drift. Also the guide adjustment refresher, I know it but when was the last time I really thought about it...😊 First thing I'll do in the shop today.
Great job! You seem to have a firm grip on reality! There are still folks on YT telling how to make an adjustable fence, so you can turn it to compensate for drift! I only get drift after I've beat up a blade.
That’s the first I’ve been told that! Haha But it’s true…bandsaw blades cut straight until they don’t. If we are careful with the blades it makes all the difference! Thanks for watching
Thanks Ethan, this is a great video. Owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw due to a unique arrangement of conical wheels (not drowned). Likewise, the backup bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be, because all blades run to the back and against the bottom bearing, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually but there is drift caused by the unique design. Anyway, great video and these techniques work for my 14" Delta. Scott
The most IMPORTANT thing to correct drift on a bandsaw is to make sure the blade is on the tires correctly. If you get the teeth lined up properly, 99.9999% of your drift issues will go away.
That hasn't been my experience. This video shows how little difference the blade alignment on the wheel makes - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.htmlsi=TvWy6wrTFP6a5lrh&t=379 Thanks for watching!
I'm retired and too busted up to do much anymore, but after re-sawing what seems like miles of quartered white oak, I've gotta say that I think the wood can matter quite a bit. Oak is ring porous and has pretty dense medullary rays, and a bandsaw blade will seek more porous parts of the board. I built a fence that allowed me to adjust the fence's angle slightly without changing the distance from the fence to the blade. It worked well. I've also wondered if you can count on a new blade's set to be quite right. They're mass-produced, and I'd expect some deviation from perfection.
This demonstration answers a lot of basic questions re straight cutting, thanks for the insight!! ill try to get a sledge somehow onto my very basic bandsaw, Cheers!!!
Hi thanks for the great video. I cut mainly metal/ alloy on my band saw so I run an 18TPI finer tooth blade. Does all you said in your video apply to metal cutting as well, I assume so. Thanks
In many ways yes! Same principles apply. Metal generally has less interior stresses than wood so cutting against a fence is as detrimental. Still do everything possible to protect the set on the bandsaws teeth Thanks for watching!
I have exactly this problem, I realized that one of the under the table bearings is missing from the very beginning. I made myself the exentric bearing support and now is working better but not 100%. I am a luthier and need almost perfect cuts in some of the parts I make for building a guitarr.
Thank you very much for the great explanation. I really wish I could have you come help me setup my band saw. It is the one tool in my shop I am having issues with. I can't seem to keep the blade on the saw (pops off). I decided to buy a new blade and I have yet to install it because the machine makes me so mad. I am in full Holiday build mode right now for upcoming craft shows and I would love to use my bandsaw. With your video I will try and see if I can do it again. Thanks again!
Not dulling the blades = longer blade life = you save enough money in blade cost to pay for the Little Ripper in short order if you do very much ripping on your bandsaw. I would estimate I get at least 4 times the life out of my blades since getting the Little Ripper. I'm surprised there aren't more videos from customers on this great bandsaw accessory, maybe I should get busy and do one myself. ;- )
That’s a good point Tim! Glad you are enjoying your Little Ripper as well 👍 Any and all video are appreciated!! We are doing a little promotion for Little Ripper owners later this week…keep an eye out
Ethan.....Watched your video on bandsaw drift and the little ripper was very impressive in correcting that issue....but you used a slab piece of lumber. Can the little ripper handle re-sawing already planed boards. Looks like getting a straight 90* cut might be a challenge. Whereas, pushing that same board against a fence would almost guarantee a straight 90* cut as long as you have a sharp blade. How does the little Ripper help with re-sawing straight boards.....without a fence?
I struggled forever to stop drift with a new bandsaw and stock blade. Changing the blade fixed the problem. The bad blade's teeth offset was not balanced. Can such a blade be fixed? Is there a way to re-set the teeth?
Yes and no! lol I’ve played with this in the past…you can kinda fix it? This video talks about this more - ruclips.net/video/4OLB59oCIjs/видео.htmlsi=tUZr4Ffzve88IeQI
You can see major defects like a bent blade or a crack. Unfortunately you won’t be able to see an issue with the set as a couple thousands of an inch off can be the difference between a straight cutting blade and a blade that drifts. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
You can accomplish the same without the little ripper. Just make a fence that ends just after the blade. The wood can bend any way it wants and there is no fence after the cut for it to press against. Save your money. P.s. if you’re still thinking about a LIl ripper, also consider your band saw’s table - it’s too small and once you try anything bigger than a small, short light log, it just gets in the way and doesn’t work. (Notice all demo utubes are only with small logs).
As far as fence setups go on a bandsaw that is quite good! There are still a number of issues I chat more about in this video - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=gaQCLHDWdcLxnil2 Also if you are interested here's a video of the Little Ripper cutting an 8' long red oak beam - ruclips.net/video/YmGhMCgS7SU/видео.htmlsi=Ga3Ht0XwRcJejMqX Thanks for watching!
Originally we designed the Little Ripper to cut logs but then realized most customers are using it to resaw! Here’s a video showing how to set it up to do just that - ruclips.net/video/VeuALqx1uAA/видео.htmlsi=hATcrZUtZQ8OQ6SV Thanks for watching!
@@StockroomSupply Ethan, thank you. Actually bought one a couple of years ago but life got in the way to use it between selling, moving, new shop and total knee replacement on one with the other in the works at least my mind is into woodworking/woodturning.
Absolutely! Here’s a video of it being used on a 10” Rikon - ruclips.net/video/d8aBH9aoCCw/видео.htmlsi=oxrOKdHCsWirh3LH And a setup video - ruclips.net/video/nPSomhGHkvU/видео.htmlsi=EQDnW6oI3us-mrDt
Thanks for this video, but I have a question. With the fence, the wood can't deflect towards the left because of the fence. But with the sled, the board is still held so it can't deflect, but to the right this time. Why are there different results?
That’s a good question! The answer is actually in the wording of your question. When splitting a board with a fence the wood moves and binds the blade. When splitting a board with the Little Ripper the wood is held in place so it can’t move. This video explains more what I mean - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=3fPaxnBMc4mspbUA
You are the man Ethan, saying it straight like your resawing, no fuss and down to earth, always very informative your videos 👍 Now, how do I get one of those wonderful resawing jigs here in Australia?
The neat thing about the track is you can join them together! With one extra piece you can cut up to 4’ like this video - ruclips.net/video/WGQ906MZdiE/видео.htmlsi=TeJyDdU2SShd3lgH Or if you really want to get excited you can use our Sawmill package for up to 8’! Here’s a video - ruclips.net/video/YmGhMCgS7SU/видео.htmlsi=yxz1W8uslQS3gmL2
If this is true, then it stands to reason that rather than buying the fancy jig, or making one, you could simply use the fence but make the resaw cut away from the fence and eliminate the problem.
That is certainly the best way to use a fence! Unfortunately it’s not that simple. This video explains more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=W_D-rXMhVRBp-bm8
I can’t make sense of this. The rational that the natural compression or tension that is released when you cut is inconsequential with a carriage compared to fence makes no sense as both the carriage and fence are non moveable objects, I.e. the wood will not move either of them laterally. I fully believe that the carriage is a great option for a number of operations. But there is no logic, based on what was presented, that indicates it solves drift.
You are exactly right in saying the fence and carriage are both immovable object’s but the import part is the wood does move. When using a fence wood is able to move and bind. When using a carriage wood can stress on one side and on the other it is locked into the carriage with claws becoming an immovable object. This video helps explain this a bit more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=15H4nk8f6GZFKbrf Thanks for watching!
Well that's one cause. Another is tension. Most bandsaws can not tension a blade properly. And that's the wrong blade you have there for that job A lennox woodmaster 1" x 1.3 TPI woodmaster is the proper blade for resawing on that machine
I haven’t found tension to be all that important to be honest. I talk about that in this video more - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.htmlsi=d1lat675Z400DgwE
I may be wrong, but if this guy is right why not shifting the fence on the other side. I mean on exterior.And the thin side would have more space and not be squized. I think this so clever guy is trying to sell another useless expensive device fore some big amount of money.
That’s absolutely the best way to use a fence! There is still a big issue when you resaw a board right down the middle. This video explains this a bit more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=pd1u1FuemkgS4TJi
The difference is the wood is locked in place with the Little Ripper not allowing it to move and protecting the blade. With a fence the wood is free to twist and bind whichever direction it chooses. This video helps explain this more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=3fPaxnBMc4mspbUA Thanks for watching!!
He needs to admit in the video that Lil Ripper is his product he sells. So don’t assume this is an unbiased review of lil ripper. Its one of his COMMERCIALs advertising lil ripper.
We certainly are the designers, makers and sellers the Little Ripper Sawmill! Here's a link to where to find them on our site - stockroomsupply.com/collections/little-ripper-mini-sawmill-1
For the Laguna 14bx you will need the 1 1/16” Round Rail version. That depends how tall and long you want to cut! The standard package with cut 7” tall and 2’ long. With a height riser it will handle up to 14”. With a track extension it will handle up to 4’. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching 🙂
Here’s a video showing how I set up my bandsaw - ruclips.net/video/xkHchvzInHc/видео.htmlsi=lBM8y5TVFE2r-FjE What would you do differently? Thanks for watching!
This is EXACTLY what I (mostly) figured out on my own after buying and destroying new blades with my blade guides for years. Thanks for explaining it so clearly.
Right on! Thanks for watching 🙂
Great video explaining the basic . To the person that commented on his little ripper product, before you make a comment spend the time, money and content for your own channel then you can advertise what you want . If he has invented it and it is his channel he s entitled to advertise and from what I can see the product seems to work well good on you. Greatly appreciated
Thanks for watching! 🙂
Ethen speaks the truth. I saw thin panels for ukulele fronts and backs. The Little Ripper has made this much easier and produced much more consistent results than a tall fence. The tall fence was great for making panels that ended up concave or convex and with uneven thickness. But I needed flat panels. The little ripper really improved my yield.
That’s awesome!!! We’d love to see a picture of your ukulele’s sometime. Thanks for watching!
That is interesting. I actually resaw thin panels for harps, and Im using fence with good results. And I was just thinking if this could work for thin and long panels. This looks for me like a good jig - but for small and short logs, like from fire wood and so on... I cant imagine that Iam resawing piece what is 100x30x1,5cm ... ?
Tomas
A lot of folks use the Little Ripper strictly to resaw! Here’s a video showing how to set it up to do that - ruclips.net/video/VeuALqx1uAA/видео.htmlsi=igBBTX_SunMawYxs
@@HarmonieZvuku-harfy-kalimby I saw log quarters that are 48” long using two tracks end to end and two carriages. The logs were a bit wobbly with a single carriage because of the unsupported length. For ukuleles that is plenty of length, and a bit more than one meter (39”). See my video on “SN008 demo and reprise”. A snippet shows the panel sawing
Thank you for your wonderful description of blade drift. Also the guide adjustment refresher, I know it but when was the last time I really thought about it...😊 First thing I'll do in the shop today.
Happy to help!! Thanks for watching 🙂
Great job! You seem to have a firm grip on reality! There are still folks on YT telling how to make an adjustable fence, so you can turn it to compensate for drift! I only get drift after I've beat up a blade.
That’s the first I’ve been told that! Haha
But it’s true…bandsaw blades cut straight until they don’t. If we are careful with the blades it makes all the difference!
Thanks for watching
This guy really gets the bandsaw. Brilliant.
Thanks very much! I know a little bit 🙂
Thanks Ethan, this is a great video. Owners of a SHOPSMITH bandsaw need to be aware that their saw is unique in that there is no adjustment for blade tracking. The saw is designed so that every blade runs near the back of the wheel and against a pair of "Auto-Track" bearings that are in the arm of the saw due to a unique arrangement of conical wheels (not drowned). Likewise, the backup bearings below and above the table aren't adjustable forward and back because they don't need to be, because all blades run to the back and against the bottom bearing, and if the saw is properly aligned, just ahead of the upper bearing. It's pretty sweet, actually but there is drift caused by the unique design. Anyway, great video and these techniques work for my 14" Delta. Scott
good info! Thanks for watching!
The most IMPORTANT thing to correct drift on a bandsaw is to make sure the blade is on the tires correctly. If you get the teeth lined up properly, 99.9999% of your drift issues will go away.
That hasn't been my experience. This video shows how little difference the blade alignment on the wheel makes - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.htmlsi=TvWy6wrTFP6a5lrh&t=379
Thanks for watching!
Excellent information - thanks.
Thanks for watching 🙂
I'm retired and too busted up to do much anymore, but after re-sawing what seems like miles of quartered white oak, I've gotta say that I think the wood can matter quite a bit. Oak is ring porous and has pretty dense medullary rays, and a bandsaw blade will seek more porous parts of the board. I built a fence that allowed me to adjust the fence's angle slightly without changing the distance from the fence to the blade. It worked well.
I've also wondered if you can count on a new blade's set to be quite right. They're mass-produced, and I'd expect some deviation from perfection.
As a blade gets dull and the woodworker applies a bit too much pressure bandsaw blades will tend to follow the wood grain.
Thanks for watching!
@@StockroomSupply True enough. And I have to admit I could be a bit parsimonious when it came to buying blades.
This demonstration answers a lot of basic questions re straight cutting, thanks for the insight!! ill try to get a sledge somehow onto my very basic bandsaw, Cheers!!!
No problem and thanks for watching!
Hi thanks for the great video. I cut mainly metal/ alloy on my band saw so I run an 18TPI finer tooth blade. Does all you said in your video apply to metal cutting as well, I assume so. Thanks
In many ways yes! Same principles apply. Metal generally has less interior stresses than wood so cutting against a fence is as detrimental. Still do everything possible to protect the set on the bandsaws teeth
Thanks for watching!
I have exactly this problem, I realized that one of the under the table bearings is missing from the very beginning. I made myself the exentric bearing support and now is working better but not 100%. I am a luthier and need almost perfect cuts in some of the parts I make for building a guitarr.
Good job finding the problem! Sounds like a Little Ripper may be a future solution - ruclips.net/video/R1Y-bUUz338/видео.htmlsi=_rCKRRq6n8T1BGSJ
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Appreciate your doing this.
Thanks for watching!
OK, I learned something very useful!
Great! Thanks for watching!
Brilliant, thank you for sharing.
Thanks! And thankyou for watching 🙂
Thank you very much for the great explanation. I really wish I could have you come help me setup my band saw. It is the one tool in my shop I am having issues with. I can't seem to keep the blade on the saw (pops off). I decided to buy a new blade and I have yet to install it because the machine makes me so mad. I am in full Holiday build mode right now for upcoming craft shows and I would love to use my bandsaw. With your video I will try and see if I can do it again. Thanks again!
Thanks so much!! You may find this setup video helpful - ruclips.net/video/xkHchvzInHc/видео.htmlsi=boUjG-2HpwHthMzh
Thanks for watching!
@@StockroomSupply Thank you, I will check that out for sure.
Brilliant! Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great demo thanks mate.
Thanks for watching!
Good info. Thanks!
New subscriber here! Great information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!!
Not dulling the blades = longer blade life = you save enough money in blade cost to pay for the Little Ripper in short order if you do very much ripping on your bandsaw. I would estimate I get at least 4 times the life out of my blades since getting the Little Ripper. I'm surprised there aren't more videos from customers on this great bandsaw accessory, maybe I should get busy and do one myself. ;- )
That’s a good point Tim! Glad you are enjoying your Little Ripper as well 👍
Any and all video are appreciated!! We are doing a little promotion for Little Ripper owners later this week…keep an eye out
Impressive!
Thanks!
Thy very useful tips.
Glad you think so!
Ethan.....Watched your video on bandsaw drift and the little ripper was very impressive in correcting that issue....but you used a slab piece of lumber. Can the little ripper handle re-sawing already planed boards. Looks like getting a straight 90* cut might be a challenge. Whereas, pushing that same board against a fence would almost guarantee a straight 90* cut as long as you have a sharp blade. How does the little Ripper help with re-sawing straight boards.....without a fence?
It absolutely can! This video shows in more detail how to resaw with it - ruclips.net/video/VeuALqx1uAA/видео.htmlsi=Rm2IJwgP8nxoGEoX
@@StockroomSupply That was a perfect answer to my question.....will be placing an order! Thanks Ethan
@@lawrencep5427 happy to help and thankyou!
thanks, great video. I'm sure I wrecked more blades all by myself.
It’s happens to all of us don’t worry!
Would there still be drift if the fence ends before the front of the blade?
Not a bad option! This explains why it still isn’t ideal - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=S-SpZwqKaJgxgLyl
I struggled forever to stop drift with a new bandsaw and stock blade. Changing the blade fixed the problem. The bad blade's teeth offset was not balanced. Can such a blade be fixed? Is there a way to re-set the teeth?
Yes and no! lol I’ve played with this in the past…you can kinda fix it? This video talks about this more - ruclips.net/video/4OLB59oCIjs/видео.htmlsi=tUZr4Ffzve88IeQI
Never saw a politician with such dancing skills.
🕺🕺
nice
Thanks!!
Can you visually inspect a bandsaw blade for damage?
You can see major defects like a bent blade or a crack. Unfortunately you won’t be able to see an issue with the set as a couple thousands of an inch off can be the difference between a straight cutting blade and a blade that drifts. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
You can accomplish the same without the little ripper. Just make a fence that ends just after the blade. The wood can bend any way it wants and there is no fence after the cut for it to press against. Save your money. P.s. if you’re still thinking about a LIl ripper, also consider your band saw’s table - it’s too small and once you try anything bigger than a small, short light log, it just gets in the way and doesn’t work. (Notice all demo utubes are only with small logs).
As far as fence setups go on a bandsaw that is quite good! There are still a number of issues I chat more about in this video - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=gaQCLHDWdcLxnil2
Also if you are interested here's a video of the Little Ripper cutting an 8' long red oak beam - ruclips.net/video/YmGhMCgS7SU/видео.htmlsi=Ga3Ht0XwRcJejMqX
Thanks for watching!
Thought the Little Ripper was designed to slab " logs", how do you set it up to rip boards especially when aligning them?
Originally we designed the Little Ripper to cut logs but then realized most customers are using it to resaw! Here’s a video showing how to set it up to do just that - ruclips.net/video/VeuALqx1uAA/видео.htmlsi=hATcrZUtZQ8OQ6SV
Thanks for watching!
@@StockroomSupply Ethan, thank you. Actually bought one a couple of years ago but life got in the way to use it between selling, moving, new shop and total knee replacement on one with the other in the works at least my mind is into woodworking/woodturning.
Where do we get these carriages, please?
You can find them here - stockroomsupply.com/collections/little-ripper-mini-sawmill-1
Thanks for watching!
10 outa 10
Thanks!
can you use the little ripper on the rikon 10-3061 bandsaw?
Absolutely! Here’s a video of it being used on a 10” Rikon - ruclips.net/video/d8aBH9aoCCw/видео.htmlsi=oxrOKdHCsWirh3LH
And a setup video - ruclips.net/video/nPSomhGHkvU/видео.htmlsi=EQDnW6oI3us-mrDt
Thanks for this video, but I have a question. With the fence, the wood can't deflect towards the left because of the fence. But with the sled, the board is still held so it can't deflect, but to the right this time. Why are there different results?
This is exactly what I was thinking while watching this video.
That’s a good question! The answer is actually in the wording of your question. When splitting a board with a fence the wood moves and binds the blade. When splitting a board with the Little Ripper the wood is held in place so it can’t move. This video explains more what I mean - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=3fPaxnBMc4mspbUA
You are the man Ethan, saying it straight like your resawing, no fuss and down to earth, always very informative your videos 👍
Now, how do I get one of those wonderful resawing jigs here in Australia?
Thanks very much!
Send us an email to info@stockroomsupply.com and we can find you a shipping quote 👍
What if you’re resawing a longer board?
The neat thing about the track is you can join them together! With one extra piece you can cut up to 4’ like this video - ruclips.net/video/WGQ906MZdiE/видео.htmlsi=TeJyDdU2SShd3lgH
Or if you really want to get excited you can use our Sawmill package for up to 8’! Here’s a video - ruclips.net/video/YmGhMCgS7SU/видео.htmlsi=yxz1W8uslQS3gmL2
If this is true, then it stands to reason that rather than buying the fancy jig, or making one, you could simply use the fence but make the resaw cut away from the fence and eliminate the problem.
That is certainly the best way to use a fence! Unfortunately it’s not that simple. This video explains more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=W_D-rXMhVRBp-bm8
I can’t make sense of this. The rational that the natural compression or tension that is released when you cut is inconsequential with a carriage compared to fence makes no sense as both the carriage and fence are non moveable objects, I.e. the wood will not move either of them laterally. I fully believe that the carriage is a great option for a number of operations. But there is no logic, based on what was presented, that indicates it solves drift.
You are exactly right in saying the fence and carriage are both immovable object’s but the import part is the wood does move. When using a fence wood is able to move and bind. When using a carriage wood can stress on one side and on the other it is locked into the carriage with claws becoming an immovable object. This video helps explain this a bit more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=15H4nk8f6GZFKbrf
Thanks for watching!
Well that's one cause. Another is tension. Most bandsaws can not tension a blade properly. And that's the wrong blade you have there for that job A lennox woodmaster 1" x 1.3 TPI woodmaster is the proper blade for resawing on that machine
I haven’t found tension to be all that important to be honest. I talk about that in this video more - ruclips.net/video/4k-r5utmU2Q/видео.htmlsi=d1lat675Z400DgwE
I may be wrong, but if this guy is right why not shifting the fence on the other side. I mean on exterior.And the thin side would have more space and not be squized. I think this so clever guy is trying to sell another useless expensive device fore some big amount of money.
That’s absolutely the best way to use a fence! There is still a big issue when you resaw a board right down the middle. This video explains this a bit more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=pd1u1FuemkgS4TJi
Every person, starting to use a bandsaw, needs to watch this video!
Thanks! Feel free to share it 🙂
When you think about it, with a piece of wood rigidly held in the little ripper, this acts just like a fence when you cut off a piece.
The difference is the wood is locked in place with the Little Ripper not allowing it to move and protecting the blade. With a fence the wood is free to twist and bind whichever direction it chooses. This video helps explain this more - ruclips.net/video/sY7xKKUGBgE/видео.htmlsi=3fPaxnBMc4mspbUA
Thanks for watching!!
He needs to admit in the video that Lil Ripper is his product he sells. So don’t assume this is an unbiased review of lil ripper. Its one of his COMMERCIALs advertising lil ripper.
We certainly are the designers, makers and sellers the Little Ripper Sawmill! Here's a link to where to find them on our site - stockroomsupply.com/collections/little-ripper-mini-sawmill-1
For crying out loud, bud. It’s on his channel. Lighten up.
@@StockroomSupplyif I am ripping 4/4 S2S, which ripper would you suggest. I have a Laguna 14bx.
For the Laguna 14bx you will need the 1 1/16” Round Rail version. That depends how tall and long you want to cut! The standard package with cut 7” tall and 2’ long. With a height riser it will handle up to 14”. With a track extension it will handle up to 4’. I hope this helps! Thanks for watching 🙂
A salesman for the ripper with no clue of setting up a bandsaw. There are no such thing as bandsaw drift !
Here’s a video showing how I set up my bandsaw - ruclips.net/video/xkHchvzInHc/видео.htmlsi=lBM8y5TVFE2r-FjE
What would you do differently?
Thanks for watching!
I have bandsaw drift. So nah nah nah nah nah nah.
Excellent video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!