Matthias Wandel has made a few videos on band saw blade guide design. This one discussing the orientation of the back ball bearing: ruclips.net/video/V_bUCTCNUmo/видео.html This one comparing four different designs: ruclips.net/video/DQZY0bFDiw8/видео.html
@@UnderDunnOfficial bruh but it's Matthias Wandel were talking about here. The man knows about the topic as much as you and me 😂 Regardless Matthias makes some great machines
He uses wood blocks on the sides instead of bearings. I designed and printed blade guide for my saw that used bearings, and later ended up switching to hardwood side blocks. I now agree with him they are better.
If this is what Robert can do with wood working tools , imagine what he could do with a lathe and a mill. Truly a talented person. Keep up the great work.
He has a wood-turning lathe he has badly abused which makes a very brief cameo in this video (used with a metal cutting portable band saw to cut some tubing). I agree, he could probably make some lovely things with a proper lathe and mill
God in heaven be praised!! R.D.’s Guardian Angel must totally collapse of exhaustion by the time this dude hits the sack at night!!! Lord knows she (he, it?) puts forth effort above and beyond!!! Phew!!!
if you need to tap threads into a softer wood, try drilling and tapping as normal but then saturate the newly cut threads with super glue. Once the glue is cured run the tap through the threads again and Robert is your fathers brother.
Sir: Two suggestions. 1. Buy a fairly cheap set of center-cutting end mills for your slotting and carving operations if you are going to use a drill press to accomplish them. 2. If you MUST put screw threads directly into wood, use Helicoils or similar thread repair inserts. They will last much longer and be stronger as well. By the way, 2 flute cutters, like drill bits, cut triangular holes. 4 flutes cut rectangular holes, etc. The number of flutes in the cutter, plus one, is the number of "corners" in the resulting hole. A framed with 6 or 8 flutes cuts a founder hole with smoother walls and more accurate and consistent diameter. I know you didn't ask, but I am an old fart, I envy your having that workshop and I just love to poke the bear. 🙏
Robert: goes and gets a full imperial drill bit set Me, who often has bad ideas: why not just wiggle the 10mm around until it bores it out enough to fit?
3:25: Based on the splatters on the wall behind the drill press, it looks like you've learned a few hard lessons... 10:09: Yup. No big deal... Your videos are instructive, fun, and inspirational.
Well, only if he is dumber than he seems. I have had a few of those "enlightening" moments myself, and I can tell you that almost losing a piece of your body to a machine is one of the things that makes most people want to NOT do that same thing again! Also, Robert, if you see this comment, look at Fastcap's Million Dollar Hand (something like that). It lets you hold small parts like those, but keeps you hand far away from the blade.
keep the blade just off the bearings, its ok if they touch when your cutting but not when its jus running. great job I need this for my vintage Delta 785
Nice job! One reason for the thrust bearing to be 90 degrees to the blade is more surface area contacting the back of the blade, rather than a single point with a parallel bearing. I’d fix the upper blade guard sooner rather than later. Keeping your hands away from the exposed part of the blade isn’t enough. If and when the blade breaks, the loose blade can nastily cut you. I’d make this my very next project.
And that's the problem , the thrust bearing is the one that does most of the work to keep the blade in place , more contact area will only increase the friction between the blade and the bearing , therefore creating / generation more HEAT when the saw in at work , thats the last thing you want to do That heat will damage the blade and it loose it's sharp edge quicker than you expected
I agree with you @jim Gott. to spread the load of the contact of the back of the blade helps prevent it from buckling and binding on the side guide rollers (or blocks).
I've been wedged under my woodworking bench for a couple of years,so this was my first exposure to your channel. It's obvious that you come from a gene pool containing talent, entertainment and ingenuity. Sold, one new subscription! Not to mention that we have questionable drill press skills in common. LMAO.
Damn that miter saw dust shroud is pretty already. Could not imagine table saw blade guides made from wood would work, but they do. And they are pretty, too. Good ideas and craftsmanship, Robert! Cheers!
Very cool project! Fwiw, clamping a board across my drill press table (and later building at t-slot base with a fence) transformed my drill press for me. I now had a way to support what I was drilling and haven’t had any more cases where the item I was drilling got bound to the bit. Plus it is now very easy to clamp items to a stable surface (the fence) and keep my hands well away.
I freaking love band saws. They are pretty much the only power wood working tool I will use without fear lol. You can't PAY ME to get close to a table saw lol.
The part with the drill press breaking. I was taking a drink and then the lights go out! I almost spit my drink out all over my laptop! I laugh because I've had days like this. Great video! A bad day in the shop is still a good day.
I aquired this exact saw on Facebook for 30 bucks last year. Not only is this the best upgrade video I have seen, and will be doing myself, but it is basically the ONLY video about this saw. Thank you!
For the nut coming loose on the pillar drill, you could double nut the thread which will stop it coming loose. Great vids and please look after your fingers!!!
That black piece you removed is where I squeezed my dust extraction brush in its purpose was to remove the dust before it got onto the rubber Tyre on the lower wheel, secondly it also sucked the dust through the blade insert which I drill 3/16 holes in to assist with downward dust removal.
I got to say this, that is impressive in what you did... I have a Band Saw CARTER Guide System. 3-bearing wheels top & bottom. I had blocks, yet gave me a lot of issues. It was an investment $150.00 for the new Carter Guides. The funny part is that my BAND-SAW was $189.00 Penn State Industries 1992. Did the Carter Guides in 2010. I changed the tires on the wheels, better quality for blade control and the Carter Guides made it a completely different & a better band-saw. Blades last for yrs instead months. It was worth the investment just in saving blades.
Nice build, Robert! I wanted to caution you on how you held the piece at 10:15. The direction of force of your appendages should never be towards the blade, within maybe 8 inches or so. The workpiece can always unexpectedly kick out, and reaction times are far too slow. Always factor in the slim possibility because it just takes once. I speak from experience, but thankfully my accident didn’t cut through bone and is mostly healed.
Using a bandsaw to make parts for a different bandsaw isn’t so odd. Using your tablesaw after reassembling it to make parts for the new tablesaw you’re making out of it is. 😉 I love that tablesaw.
The answer for the question related to the orientation of the ball bearing is simple. If the spinning plane of the ball bearing would be parallel to the plane of the blade then the blade would run on the same perimeter every time and would cut a trench into the surface of the ball bearing very quickly. By contrast, if it is perpendicular then the blade continuously turns the ball bearing and it always scratches a new part of the surface of the ball bearing. Therefore it wears out more slowly. This is what I think the correct answer is. :)
AWESOME project! Purple Heart, that's some EXPENSIVE lumber right there! I know that stuff's tough, but I would not have thought it would be strong enough to serve in the capacity that you fabricated it to do. Great work!
Really does not deserve to be called “under dunn” - it’s a great piece of engineering, addressing the need. I have to admit that I have never seen wood tapped to take a metal bolt, that is cool!
Robert, I love your videos, and my only complaint is that there isn't a new one every day! Always entertaining... usually informative... never boring! Happy Holidays, my friend!
I put the old guide set off my G055 Grizzly onto an old bandsaw looked identical to yours when I put a Carter set on mine. It didnt even have a place for bottom guides, I had to drill mounting holes in the frame. Worked great after the refit.
In my experience, the reason for the bearing being 90 degrees in the wrong direction is so that once sawdust slows it down it will get a groove worn in it which will trap the blade and guarantee that it (the blade) *always* points in any direction but the one you want.
Guess it really needs to be hard wood to have a chance of holding any force. Also UNC probably works better than metric or UNF due to the coarser thread pitch
Let's start off by saying I really enjoy your videos and your sense of humour. I gotta say something tho ... About 4.5 years ago, while building a cross cut safety sled for my table saw, I took a shortcut to speed up squaring the back fence. I now have NO LEFT THUMB! I, too, thought this would never happen to me! Watching your videos, there have been several shortcuts that, lucky for you, have not resulted in an injury. Boy, it's a matter of time, and I had to say something. I wish this type of injury on NO ONE! It will change your life forever! Please BE CAREFUL!
Robert, I dont think there are very many woodworkers who have made their own blocks w/bearings from scratch. Definetly none that have done as nice a job (minus the common mishaps we all have…haha). Congratulations!
I'm behind the times apparently in seeing your vids; but glad I came across them. I'm nowhere near your skill and ingenuity but with your humor and spirit, think I'll try and tackle some 'issues' I need to clear up on my tools too, LOL. Thanks for the fun vid Robert! P.S. The 'Tool Safety' moments are priceless. Keep 'em!
it's oriented to the side because the pin in the center of it is an eccentric, allowing a bit of left-right adjustment. Also, being oriented side-to-side allows for a more compact guide assembly with fewer moment arm forces. which I fear you will come to experience in time due to those tiny wood pieces.
Sorry to hear about your misadventures with knockdown nuts (aka dowel nuts). That's a frustrating way to spend the day! After more than a few wasted days of my own, I've finally given in and started buying specialty hardware from McMaster Carr. It's not as cheap as Amazon/eBay but last time I was making knockdown furniture, I bought a few different sizes of dowel nuts. The few I checked were within -.002 / +.000 tolerance. At least to me, that's totally worth a few extra cents apiece!
I was just reading up on Purpleheart yesterday, and overheating it causes it to exude a resin that sticks to your tools. That can then cause your tools to dull even more. Purpleheart needs nice and sharp tools that are touched up often because Purpleheart is hard on tools before it exudes resin.
Many exotic hardwoods are like that. I removed a 1000 sq. ft. bulletwood deck from by backyard and have been working with that stuff all year. Luckily it's old and dry, but so dense and hard, you can't even get a nail into it without drilling a hole first. Screws don't work well either, because the screw threads don't cut the wood. If the pilot hole is too small the screw will split the wood or break off. If the pilot hole is big enough for the screw to fit without binding, the threads won't catch very well. I have to use dowels or threaded inserts for any joints that requires strength. That wood destroys drill bits and saw blades - anything less than carbide doesn't stand a chance. I can only plane a half dozen boards before my HSS planer blades need changing. :D
Hi, i enjoy your channel and unapologetic delivery. I do not know if this was mentioned in the comments, but just a thought... Alex Snodgrass has a great bandsaw set up procedure. He suggests that instead of centering the saw blade on the wheels we ahould be centering the back of the gullets. This keeps the blade straighter duringncuts and eliminates additional adjustment of the side guides once set. I have done this and it reduces drift considerably. Thanks for what you do!
Excellent workmanship, explanation, and video quality. Great project. I did a bit of a "yikes" when the finger part played, but the project was overall great.
*stares, jaw agape at threaded holes in wood.* As an engineer, I am both impressed and appalled. I'm am Impalled.. But really, pretty nifty. Keep up the good (if mildly sketchy) work ;3
2 reasons. 1. Using the side of the outer race is quieter than the OD in this application. 2. When pushing a narrow blade against the outside of a round bearing you end up with the absolute minimum contact patch as well as a tendency to encourage the blade to lean over.
Hi Robert ,a great video again. A point for you, drill shanks are smaller in diameter than the flanks normally around 4 thousandths of an inch so you always measure the flanks . This was done so you can drill deeper than the flute length.Keep up the good work and thank you for making me laugh.
Hi, I'm not a schooled Engineer but have worked with several over the years, I think if you put the rear bearings at an angle, the blade won't create a groove as the bearing surface is always different. All in all a good video fixing a problem with you saw!
I have been wondering why the bearings contact the blade with the side of the bearings. I intend to do the same modification to my old DeWalt table top band saw. This video has given me some tips on what I need to take into consideration. One thing I have learnt.....the hard way, is when you measured your barrel nut and then used your chart to find which drill bit you needed. I have found it is a good idea to measure the drill bit to check the accuracy of the chart. I googled what drill to use with a particular tap and it barely had any material left to tap into. Especially as you had the calipers already in your hand. Great job on your mods.
10:00 the solution to this, when you don't want to bother with the vise, is a squeeze clamp used as a handle. I'm a little late to the party, but it's worth saying.
I really enjoy the videos you post on Under Dunn. Don't get me wrong, your Aging Wheels content is great, but every time you post something on here it motivates me to get out in the shop and solve a problem or make something cool. And your sense of humor has a direct tap into my funny bone. It's almost eerie how on point your comedic stylings are when it comes to my sense of humor. Yeah, comedic stylings. I said it. Keep up the good work.
The bearing is side on to spread the load of the blade .if the bearing is end on the load is placed on a tiny surface .you will wear a groove very quickly .
I'm impressed with the blade guides, but no joking....please be more careful Robert. I truly enjoy your channel and admire your ambition, and I seriously want to see you keep all your fingers!
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](/img/1.gif)
Matthias Wandel has made a few videos on band saw blade guide design.
This one discussing the orientation of the back ball bearing:
ruclips.net/video/V_bUCTCNUmo/видео.html
This one comparing four different designs:
ruclips.net/video/DQZY0bFDiw8/видео.html
That's exactly the info I was looking for. I should've known the wood elf would have a video or five about this.
@@UnderDunnOfficial bruh but it's Matthias Wandel were talking about here. The man knows about the topic as much as you and me 😂 Regardless Matthias makes some great machines
He uses wood blocks on the sides instead of bearings. I designed and printed blade guide for my saw that used bearings, and later ended up switching to hardwood side blocks. I now agree with him they are better.
That des it... I Quick before i Saw you loosing fingers....
@@broken_font1881 Matthias is an engineer.
I'm just thrilled you've still got all your fingers .
I know right, i am so impressed he has all his fingers
Sometimes you just got to roll the dice. 😜
Just compare his left pointer finger between 6:57 and 6:58. Suddenly, it gets a sticker somehow. I wonder what Robert was hiding from us. HAHA
My heart is my mouth watching this lad.Its only a matter of time.
Hopefully he discovers hold down clamps before it’s too late
Came for the cars, stayed for the wood. Thanks for the good content!
That’s what she said?
Sound like my ex
@@treymoore6901😁 😉
Men 😬
@@kimberlyjacobsen4148 alone
Saw this pop up. I’m ready for dry humor and sharp wit.
Delightful. Even had a great mechanical problem solving project.
If this is what Robert can do with wood working tools , imagine what he could do with a lathe and a mill. Truly a talented person. Keep up the great work.
If he wanted to buy these tools i would donate him some money.
He has a wood-turning lathe he has badly abused which makes a very brief cameo in this video (used with a metal cutting portable band saw to cut some tubing). I agree, he could probably make some lovely things with a proper lathe and mill
@@peternachname8362 He has a patreon
He could make some PARENTAL ADVISORY "Power Tool Safety with Robert" videos.
God in heaven be praised!! R.D.’s Guardian Angel must totally collapse of exhaustion by the time this dude hits the sack at night!!! Lord knows she (he, it?) puts forth effort above and beyond!!! Phew!!!
I'm glad to see you're not afraid of "boring" content. Your story telling is full of "holes," but it has (purple) heart.
if you need to tap threads into a softer wood, try drilling and tapping as normal but then saturate the newly cut threads with super glue. Once the glue is cured run the tap through the threads again and Robert is your fathers brother.
Robert is him
@@AgentTasmania *woosh* 😛
Sir: Two suggestions.
1. Buy a fairly cheap set of center-cutting end mills for your slotting and carving operations if you are going to use a drill press to accomplish them.
2. If you MUST put screw threads directly into wood, use Helicoils or similar thread repair inserts. They will last much longer and be stronger as well.
By the way, 2 flute cutters, like drill bits, cut triangular holes. 4 flutes cut rectangular holes, etc. The number of flutes in the cutter, plus one, is the number of "corners" in the resulting hole. A framed with 6 or 8 flutes cuts a founder hole with smoother walls and more accurate and consistent diameter.
I know you didn't ask, but I am an old fart, I envy your having that workshop and I just love to poke the bear. 🙏
Robert: goes and gets a full imperial drill bit set
Me, who often has bad ideas: why not just wiggle the 10mm around until it bores it out enough to fit?
Honestly that was my first thought. 🙂
or, wrap sandpaper around the slightly smaller 3/8" bit
Yeah it looked like about 1.2 imperial wallers to me
Because wiggling the drill around gives you two back to back cone shapes rather than a cylinder.
Yep. I was like “aight just wallow it out a bit”
3:25: Based on the splatters on the wall behind the drill press, it looks like you've learned a few hard lessons...
10:09: Yup. No big deal...
Your videos are instructive, fun, and inspirational.
No, this used to be a paint shed for an automotive shop. Granted your point still stands
@@R41N80WSCR4TCH No, this used to be the set for Dexter.
@@madziar160: Maybe Rob was the inspiration.
I see a continuing series happening with "Power Tool Safety with Robert"
Well, only if he is dumber than he seems. I have had a few of those "enlightening" moments myself, and I can tell you that almost losing a piece of your body to a machine is one of the things that makes most people want to NOT do that same thing again!
Also, Robert, if you see this comment, look at Fastcap's Million Dollar Hand (something like that). It lets you hold small parts like those, but keeps you hand far away from the blade.
MAY BE A VERY FEW NUMBER OF EPISODES AT. THE. RATE. HE’S. GOING!!!
Needs a purpleheart throat plate!!!
keep the blade just off the bearings, its ok if they touch when your cutting but not when its jus running. great job I need this for my vintage Delta 785
Coming soon: Official Robert Dunn™️ branded Power Tool Safety Equipment.
@Santa Clause Order now and receive Genuine Blood Splatter as a bonus item. A $30 value, absolutely free!
Everytime i see him drill something and he's holding it i wait for that to happen cause ive learned for the same experience lol
I inherited an imperial drill set from my grandfather. Haven’t used half of them but it’s amazing when I’ve needed that one size it’s there.
I didn't expect you to have enough fingers left at the end of the video to operate the damn bandsaw 😂
Robert, thank you for sharing your "Oopsies" so we don't lose our fingers like you have so far avoided doing
Thank you for showing us when it doesn't go right. Makes me feel a lot better about my own failings, they're human.
I am not a woodworker. That is some impressive "machining" you did on that wood. It's pretty impressive wood too.
You didn't need to say that you're not a wood worker, we could tell when you said that his work was "impressive".
Nice job! One reason for the thrust bearing to be 90 degrees to the blade is more surface area contacting the back of the blade, rather than a single point with a parallel bearing. I’d fix the upper blade guard sooner rather than later. Keeping your hands away from the exposed part of the blade isn’t enough. If and when the blade breaks, the loose blade can nastily cut you. I’d make this my very next project.
And that's the problem , the thrust bearing is the one that does most of the work to keep the blade in place , more contact area will only increase the friction between the blade and the bearing , therefore creating / generation more HEAT when the saw in at work , thats the last thing you want to do
That heat will damage the blade and it loose it's sharp edge quicker than you expected
I agree with you @jim Gott. to spread the load of the contact of the back of the blade helps prevent it from buckling and binding on the side guide rollers (or blocks).
The zip tie on the drill press is true to my heart for fixing things!
Just bought a $10 craftsman band saw that needs these - thanks for the video!
I've been wedged under my woodworking bench for a couple of years,so this was my first exposure to your channel. It's obvious that you come from a gene pool containing talent, entertainment and ingenuity. Sold, one new subscription! Not to mention that we have questionable drill press skills in common. LMAO.
I admire your patience to rebiuld old tools. Great work man..
Your enthusiasm is unlimited, and infectious. Keep it going!
Damn that miter saw dust shroud is pretty already. Could not imagine table saw blade guides made from wood would work, but they do. And they are pretty, too. Good ideas and craftsmanship, Robert! Cheers!
Very cool project! Fwiw, clamping a board across my drill press table (and later building at t-slot base with a fence) transformed my drill press for me. I now had a way to support what I was drilling and haven’t had any more cases where the item I was drilling got bound to the bit. Plus it is now very easy to clamp items to a stable surface (the fence) and keep my hands well away.
I freaking love band saws. They are pretty much the only power wood working tool I will use without fear lol. You can't PAY ME to get close to a table saw lol.
The part with the drill press breaking. I was taking a drink and then the lights go out! I almost spit my drink out all over my laptop! I laugh because I've had days like this. Great video! A bad day in the shop is still a good day.
I aquired this exact saw on Facebook for 30 bucks last year. Not only is this the best upgrade video I have seen, and will be doing myself, but it is basically the ONLY video about this saw. Thank you!
For the nut coming loose on the pillar drill, you could double nut the thread which will stop it coming loose. Great vids and please look after your fingers!!!
I almost cut my thumb off on a table saw..when I was young.. .. You sir are an inspiration...
That black piece you removed is where I squeezed my dust extraction brush in its purpose was to remove the dust before it got onto the rubber Tyre on the lower wheel, secondly it also sucked the dust through the blade insert which I drill 3/16 holes in to assist with downward dust removal.
10:09 Funniest sound ever!!! I have made that same sound myself while working on machinery many times too. Never gets old😂
I do so enjoy watching you make stuff. It's really nice to see someone who works the same way that I do
5:30 so glad that I'm living in Europe and don't have to understand what you're trying to explain!
I got to say this, that is impressive in what you did... I have a Band Saw CARTER Guide System. 3-bearing wheels top & bottom. I had blocks, yet gave me a lot of issues. It was an investment $150.00 for the new Carter Guides. The funny part is that my BAND-SAW was $189.00 Penn State Industries 1992. Did the Carter Guides in 2010. I changed the tires on the wheels, better quality for blade control and the Carter Guides made it a completely different & a better band-saw. Blades last for yrs instead months. It was worth the investment just in saving blades.
Nice build, Robert! I wanted to caution you on how you held the piece at 10:15. The direction of force of your appendages should never be towards the blade, within maybe 8 inches or so. The workpiece can always unexpectedly kick out, and reaction times are far too slow. Always factor in the slim possibility because it just takes once. I speak from experience, but thankfully my accident didn’t cut through bone and is mostly healed.
Using a bandsaw to make parts for a different bandsaw isn’t so odd.
Using your tablesaw after reassembling it to make parts for the new tablesaw you’re making out of it is.
😉
I love that tablesaw.
Probably the most entertaining DIY video I've seen. Cleaver design as well.
Your mind is very impressive, a true engineer if there ever was one. I really enjoy your channel, keep up the great work.
And he is just as dumb, about safety, as most engineers.
The answer for the question related to the orientation of the ball bearing is simple. If the spinning plane of the ball bearing would be parallel to the plane of the blade then the blade would run on the same perimeter every time and would cut a trench into the surface of the ball bearing very quickly. By contrast, if it is perpendicular then the blade continuously turns the ball bearing and it always scratches a new part of the surface of the ball bearing. Therefore it wears out more slowly. This is what I think the correct answer is. :)
That was great! I love seeing upgrade projects, this was delightful to watch.
Great work! Thanks for sharing your adventure!
AWESOME project! Purple Heart, that's some EXPENSIVE lumber right there!
I know that stuff's tough, but I would not have thought it would be strong enough to serve in the capacity that you fabricated it to do. Great work!
Very well done young man. Your creative efforts almost inspire me to overcome my procrastination.
... almost.
I love the camera work, the creativity, and the persistence. Some great safety tips too. Thanks!
We need a whole power tool safety video ow my sides! So good to see it happen to someone else too lol
Really does not deserve to be called “under dunn” - it’s a great piece of engineering, addressing the need. I have to admit that I have never seen wood tapped to take a metal bolt, that is cool!
Look forward to a future project for making prosthetic fingers.
Adding this to my old delta. bearings and quick adjustments, simple and brilliant design. thanks
finished adding this, works well. good alternative to carter bearings or if you dont want the fuss just get those. thanks again for the video.
Thanks for the great explanation about the imperial drill set!
Robert, I love your videos, and my only complaint is that there isn't a new one every day! Always entertaining... usually informative... never boring! Happy Holidays, my friend!
Strangely fascinating viewing. An anomaly in the normative continuum. Respect to you.
I put the old guide set off my G055 Grizzly onto an old bandsaw looked identical to yours when I put a Carter set on mine. It didnt even have a place for bottom guides, I had to drill mounting holes in the frame. Worked great after the refit.
you are my new favorite woodworking/shop channel. Keep it up my dude
In my experience, the reason for the bearing being 90 degrees in the wrong direction is so that once sawdust slows it down it will get a groove worn in it which will trap the blade and guarantee that it (the blade) *always* points in any direction but the one you want.
Thanks for the power tool safety guide! I'm going to amputate all of my fingers now.
I'm amazed that you can tap a thread directly into wood!
I wouldn't have thought so either but Matthias Wandel does it all the time
Before using helicoils on a cylinder head I actually practiced installing them in a 2x4 and it worked great.
Guess it really needs to be hard wood to have a chance of holding any force. Also UNC probably works better than metric or UNF due to the coarser thread pitch
Purple Heart wood is extremely hard and hard on the cutting tools as well.
Hitting it with thin super glue, will also harden the threads up.
Let's start off by saying I really enjoy your videos and your sense of humour. I gotta say something tho ... About 4.5 years ago, while building a cross cut safety sled for my table saw, I took a shortcut to speed up squaring the back fence. I now have NO LEFT THUMB!
I, too, thought this would never happen to me! Watching your videos, there have been several shortcuts that, lucky for you, have not resulted in an injury. Boy, it's a matter of time, and I had to say something. I wish this type of injury on NO ONE! It will change your life forever!
Please BE CAREFUL!
Robert, I dont think there are very many woodworkers who have made their own blocks w/bearings from scratch. Definetly none that have done as nice a job (minus the common mishaps we all have…haha). Congratulations!
"minus the common mishaps we all have…haha"
Sure, if you keep your head in a sunless place.
I'm behind the times apparently in seeing your vids; but glad I came across them. I'm nowhere near your skill and ingenuity but with your humor and spirit, think I'll try and tackle some 'issues' I need to clear up on my tools too, LOL. Thanks for the fun vid Robert! P.S. The 'Tool Safety' moments are priceless. Keep 'em!
As you create things, try not to let humor override your
sense of self preservation and safety, as he does.
it's oriented to the side because the pin in the center of it is an eccentric, allowing a bit of left-right adjustment. Also, being oriented side-to-side allows for a more compact guide assembly with fewer moment arm forces. which I fear you will come to experience in time due to those tiny wood pieces.
Sorry to hear about your misadventures with knockdown nuts (aka dowel nuts). That's a frustrating way to spend the day! After more than a few wasted days of my own, I've finally given in and started buying specialty hardware from McMaster Carr. It's not as cheap as Amazon/eBay but last time I was making knockdown furniture, I bought a few different sizes of dowel nuts. The few I checked were within -.002 / +.000 tolerance. At least to me, that's totally worth a few extra cents apiece!
I was just reading up on Purpleheart yesterday, and overheating it causes it to exude a resin that sticks to your tools. That can then cause your tools to dull even more. Purpleheart needs nice and sharp tools that are touched up often because Purpleheart is hard on tools before it exudes resin.
Metal guy getting into woodworking - thanks for that. Would have taken a few years to notice that on my own I bet.
Many exotic hardwoods are like that. I removed a 1000 sq. ft. bulletwood deck from by backyard and have been working with that stuff all year. Luckily it's old and dry, but so dense and hard, you can't even get a nail into it without drilling a hole first. Screws don't work well either, because the screw threads don't cut the wood. If the pilot hole is too small the screw will split the wood or break off. If the pilot hole is big enough for the screw to fit without binding, the threads won't catch very well. I have to use dowels or threaded inserts for any joints that requires strength. That wood destroys drill bits and saw blades - anything less than carbide doesn't stand a chance. I can only plane a half dozen boards before my HSS planer blades need changing. :D
I like the bloody wall behind the drill press. Nice touch.
I'm just here for the best hair on RUclips, the tool safety is icing.
Hi, i enjoy your channel and unapologetic delivery. I do not know if this was mentioned in the comments, but just a thought... Alex Snodgrass has a great bandsaw set up procedure. He suggests that instead of centering the saw blade on the wheels we ahould be centering the back of the gullets. This keeps the blade straighter duringncuts and eliminates additional adjustment of the side guides once set. I have done this and it reduces drift considerably. Thanks for what you do!
I’ve been fiddling with alignment and bearigns on my old
Bandsaw as well, I think you have me given me some good ideas. Thanks dude!
I didn't expect it to work out so well! Great job!
I am *LOVING* the catastrophes around the 15 minute mark.
Excellent workmanship, explanation, and video quality. Great project. I did a bit of a "yikes" when the finger part played, but the project was overall great.
Always enjoy your videos. The level of humour & info is spot on. Great job
"Gunna make 'em out of purpleheart... Cause it's the densest hardwood I had on hand... And cause it's pretty!"
absolutely love how wholesome he is
Purty
*stares, jaw agape at threaded holes in wood.* As an engineer, I am both impressed and appalled. I'm am Impalled..
But really, pretty nifty. Keep up the good (if mildly sketchy) work ;3
Awesome upgrade! Plus the ‘I hate everything’ comments killed me 😂😂😂
i l;ove the fact you have so many little incidents too, just like my workshop.
In that case, you need to make some changes, before you start losing parts.
That's projecting parts, not project parts. 😱😱😱
Harbor Freight's obscure drill bits save the day!
When you sneezed and said unrelated....I actually laughed out loud. I am totally using this
Oh man this video brightened my day real quick. I hope the RUclips gig is going well for you Robert, because your videos are very good. Thanks!
Great job Robert.
I can’t see why a man with your natural instinct for tool safety would need that blade guard anyway.
That imperial drill bit set is crazy!!!
In the US, you Need it.
Gonna put Snodgoose on the food assistance program once these start rolling. Nice job Robert! Well except for all the goof ups. 👍🤣🤣🤣👍
2 reasons.
1. Using the side of the outer race is quieter than the OD in this application.
2. When pushing a narrow blade against the outside of a round bearing you end up with the absolute minimum contact patch as well as a tendency to encourage the blade to lean over.
Hi Robert ,a great video again. A point for you, drill shanks are smaller in diameter than the flanks normally around 4 thousandths of an inch so you always measure the flanks . This was done so you can drill deeper than the flute length.Keep up the good work and thank you for making me laugh.
Hi, I'm not a schooled Engineer but have worked with several over the years, I think if you put the rear bearings at an angle, the blade won't create a groove as the bearing surface is always different. All in all a good video fixing a problem with you saw!
I have been wondering why the bearings contact the blade with the side of the bearings. I intend to do the same modification to my old DeWalt table top band saw. This video has given me some tips on what I need to take into consideration. One thing I have learnt.....the hard way, is when you measured your barrel nut and then used your chart to find which drill bit you needed. I have found it is a good idea to measure the drill bit to check the accuracy of the chart. I googled what drill to use with a particular tap and it barely had any material left to tap into. Especially as you had the calipers already in your hand. Great job on your mods.
Brilliant , cheered up my dull evening, subscribed
A drill I make substantial use of is the #30, as the correct clearance drill for a 1/8" blind rivet.
As always I love your videos. You mix woodworking and hilarity seamlessly. Thank you sir may I have another 😂
Love this project, definitely want to improve my bandsaw guides like this.
10:00 the solution to this, when you don't want to bother with the vise, is a squeeze clamp used as a handle. I'm a little late to the party, but it's worth saying.
Randomly in 2 videos unrelated, I have learned about machinist drill bits.... now off to buy a set
I really enjoy the videos you post on Under Dunn. Don't get me wrong, your Aging Wheels content is great, but every time you post something on here it motivates me to get out in the shop and solve a problem or make something cool. And your sense of humor has a direct tap into my funny bone. It's almost eerie how on point your comedic stylings are when it comes to my sense of humor. Yeah, comedic stylings. I said it.
Keep up the good work.
Awesome build!
I have that exact bandsaw, bought it used for $100...had to replace the guides as well. Delta made this for Sears, so sourcing parts isn't so bad.
The bearing is side on to spread the load of the blade .if the bearing is end on the load is placed on a tiny surface .you will wear a groove very quickly .
I came for the Power Tool Safety with Robert segment, it didn't disappoint lol
Oh it was a two part series! exquisite!
I'm impressed with the blade guides, but no joking....please be more careful Robert. I truly enjoy your channel and admire your ambition, and I seriously want to see you keep all your fingers!