Good on you for keeping and displaying the box art - I have kept and displayed all my favorite model box tops and they create a great atmosphere in my 'man cave' as wallpaper.
Watching a few of these Tamiya 1/48 build videos because I got myself one for Christmas. I plan to build the Saburo Sakai version just like you have here but I'm hand painting it.
Tamiya decals do not work well with Microscale decal solutions. Get some Tamiya Mark Fit decal solution, and the decals will conform much better. It would be nice if they retired this older kit, and came out with a new tool kit.
I agree. I'm working on the floatplane version (Rufe) of this kit. It is fun, but they REALLY need to make a new tool of this fine subject. Tamiya 1973 can't hold a candle to Tamiya 2018. For some reason I saw that the A6M5 kit has some newer parts. You have me rethinking the hinomaru decals; I might just mask them.
It keeps selling because it is a good model of the A6M2 at an amenable price. Not everyone wants the super detail, especially internal detail, of Tamiya's *much* more expensive recent release kits like their A6M3, Ki-61 etc. They don't need to retire it. It fills a desired niche. For now, if you want a better A6M2 Model 21 in 1/48, buy the Hasegawa kit. I'm sure Tamiya will get around to a new A6M2 Type 21 eventually. I agree with you about Mark Fit. I use both, but Mark Fit by Tamiya works best with Tamiya decals.
I agree with Al Wood. I also think you did you a really good job. When decals wont comply i apply several coats of decal softener, and apply pressure with a cotton bud where there are panel lines. Keep up the great work and thanks for your time creating these videos for us to watch.
Thanks! I didn't talk about this in the video, but I did try that- then, the microsol pooled in some places on the underwing hinumaru's, and actually left discolorations and stains
IJN aircraft had a maroon/pinkish anti corrosion primer so weathering would show that before any bare metal. Just a lil tidbit of knowledge. IJA aircraft did not have this type of primer.
I can try, but with Tamiya it's really better to go by the codes. Some of the names don't really transfer well to other brands and some names have been changed to match different numbers over the years.
Tamiya really needs to stop issuing this kit and make a new one with the standards of their new Bf 109G-6. I found that the left upper wing was malformed,, and that produced a sizeable gap when I glued the wings to the fuselage. You seemed to have had a perfect fit between the wings and the fuselage.
I dont have an exact ratio, and my style has shifted slightly, but generally its somewhere around 6/4 thinner/paint, somtimes 75/100. It depends how much troubke my dying airbrush is giving me on any particular day
Hi, Beginner modeler here. May I know what that is you used to cover the cockpit and position the canopy on the cup while painting? Also, what mask did you use for the canopy? Thanks!
Tamiya tape to mask, silly putty to hold on cup. Cockpit cover was probably sponge pushed into the gaps, seal holes and seams with silly putty. Blu tac also works.
So the wings sag naturally on the A6M2? wow, didn't know that, I thought the kit was flawed, I did straightened them with hot water. Building this kit, it is still very nice, which would explain why Tamiya hasn't redone it.
Yes, the wings do have a bit of sag to them IRL. I believe that this kit overexaggerates the effect, but if you look at video of zero's taking off from carrier decks you can see the wings sag and wobble what looks like a ton until the aircraft is in the air and under load. This is actually the case with virtually every aircraft, and this 'sag' is an integral part to aircraft stability. Look in to the "Beardmore Inflexible" for an example of what happens when you force rigidity in aircraft. A 'wobbly' wing is essentially an aerial version of a suspension system- it helps the aircraft stabilize, it helps limit the wear and movement of components due to engine vibration. A lot of aircraft explicitly design to allow for this wobble- if you start poking around blueprints, you'll notice that a lot of aircraft join the wings to the root / passthrough box with a pin / hinge system, where the pin is in the same orientation as the aircraft centerline, and is explicitly designed to allow for a small amount of movement. This design is particularly easy to see with light aircraft like Cubs and Cessna's- if you pay attention in the cockpit, you can actually often see these joints in aircraft with high wings. The wing struts are also joined with these hinged connections. The effect of this is particularly easy to see if you watch videos - or have been on a flight- of jetliners taking off. On the tarmac the wings are limp and droopy, and you can see a great amount of wobble with every illumination strip the pilot rumbles across. As the plane move down the runway, watch the wings- before the wheels leave the ground, the wings stiffen, and slowly bend upright until they take on a dihedral, which is particularly pronounced at V1. If you pay attention, for the rest of the flight, even in the worst turbulence, as long as the aircraft is flying and therefore under load the wings appear to be basically rigid.
@@TheWaggishAmerican your reply reminded me of a seen in Saving Private Ryan when one of the men starts complaining about the mission and goes into detail about how it is a waste of resources and then Tom Hanks says now that's how to grip
TheWaggishAmerican I gave it 2 hrs wait I think that was part of the problem I used acrylic pint and clear was the Tamiya spray can and as for the wash I used nupastel mixed with water and a drop of soap I think my problem was not waiting long enough and wear I touched it when I had cleared it that’s wear it looked bad but I tried fixing the plane and over all it came out ok just had a lot of weathering done done to it on my green zero it’s been 3 days since I cleared it so it should come out better
Can you tell me more what the Future stuff is ..and I think it wasn't to bad a build but if your like me I prefer 1/48 /32..due to my large fingers..look forward to the Zero 1/32..
3:08
Good on you for keeping and displaying the box art - I have kept and displayed all my favorite model box tops and they create a great atmosphere in my 'man cave' as wallpaper.
Although you weren't too happy with this mate, I still think you made a wonderful job of it. Well done.
I remember having this kit when I was young, except my dad built and painted it just for me.
Looks good to me appreciate the time taken to show us your build . Have a good one
Watching a few of these Tamiya 1/48 build videos because I got myself one for Christmas. I plan to build the Saburo Sakai version just like you have here but I'm hand painting it.
Watch Quick Kits video about hand painting if you havent already.
Good luck!
Tamiya decals do not work well with Microscale decal solutions. Get some Tamiya Mark Fit decal solution, and the decals will conform much better. It would be nice if they retired this older kit, and came out with a new tool kit.
I guess that if it keeps selling, they'll keep producing. Thanks for the suggestion- ill get some before i try decal my 1/48 fw 190d9
I agree. I'm working on the floatplane version (Rufe) of this kit. It is fun, but they REALLY need to make a new tool of this fine subject. Tamiya 1973 can't hold a candle to Tamiya 2018. For some reason I saw that the A6M5 kit has some newer parts. You have me rethinking the hinomaru decals; I might just mask them.
The A6M5 kit is of a more recent up-to-date vintage.
It keeps selling because it is a good model of the A6M2 at an amenable price. Not everyone wants the super detail, especially internal detail, of Tamiya's *much* more expensive recent release kits like their A6M3, Ki-61 etc. They don't need to retire it. It fills a desired niche. For now, if you want a better A6M2 Model 21 in 1/48, buy the Hasegawa kit. I'm sure Tamiya will get around to a new A6M2 Type 21 eventually. I agree with you about Mark Fit. I use both, but Mark Fit by Tamiya works best with Tamiya decals.
I agree with Al Wood. I also think you did you a really good job. When decals wont comply i apply several coats of decal softener, and apply pressure with a cotton bud where there are panel lines. Keep up the great work and thanks for your time creating these videos for us to watch.
Thanks! I didn't talk about this in the video, but I did try that- then, the microsol pooled in some places on the underwing hinumaru's, and actually left discolorations and stains
Yeah, never let decal softener pool, soak up the excess.
Good job i keep learning more and more from you guys here on youtube THANKS.
No problem; I love to provide content!
Nice job on the model even though there were problems you still did great
Great build on a really old kit mate
IJN aircraft had a maroon/pinkish anti corrosion primer so weathering would show that before any bare metal. Just a lil tidbit of knowledge. IJA aircraft did not have this type of primer.
Another very well done model!
There is a STARFIX zero kit. 1/72. Not seen any builds on that. Also a Midori kit but I don't remember what the scale is.
Very nice work!
thanks!
Could you name the colours when staring the code number please.
I can try, but with Tamiya it's really better to go by the codes. Some of the names don't really transfer well to other brands and some names have been changed to match different numbers over the years.
great work 💯👌👏👏
Great build
Tamiya really needs to stop issuing this kit and make a new one with the standards of their new Bf 109G-6. I found that the left upper wing was malformed,, and that produced a sizeable gap when I glued the wings to the fuselage. You seemed to have had a perfect fit between the wings and the fuselage.
The Tamiya A6M2 is a very old kit. Which nowadays makes it very affordable compared to Hasegawa and new versions from tamiya.
The Hasegawa one is incredible. But for the price of one kit you could build four or even five if the Tamiya, and it’ll come out decent
Hi again
Can I ask what the ratio of thinner to paint was for the marble wash? What was the pressure you used for your airbrush?
Cheers
I dont have an exact ratio, and my style has shifted slightly, but generally its somewhere around 6/4 thinner/paint, somtimes 75/100. It depends how much troubke my dying airbrush is giving me on any particular day
Hi,
Beginner modeler here. May I know what that is you used to cover the cockpit and position the canopy on the cup while painting? Also, what mask did you use for the canopy? Thanks!
Tamiya tape to mask, silly putty to hold on cup. Cockpit cover was probably sponge pushed into the gaps, seal holes and seams with silly putty. Blu tac also works.
@@TheWaggishAmerican ok, thank you very much.
Nice presentation, well done! Your narration is excellent.
If the paint is so thin that it is 7 parts thinner, then isnt that too thin? Would you hold the airbrush further and lower pressure?
Thinner paint =lower pressure and hold close to surface.
So the wings sag naturally on the A6M2? wow, didn't know that, I thought the kit was flawed, I did straightened them with hot water. Building this kit, it is still very nice, which would explain why Tamiya hasn't redone it.
Yes, the wings do have a bit of sag to them IRL. I believe that this kit overexaggerates the effect, but if you look at video of zero's taking off from carrier decks you can see the wings sag and wobble what looks like a ton until the aircraft is in the air and under load.
This is actually the case with virtually every aircraft, and this 'sag' is an integral part to aircraft stability. Look in to the "Beardmore Inflexible" for an example of what happens when you force rigidity in aircraft. A 'wobbly' wing is essentially an aerial version of a suspension system- it helps the aircraft stabilize, it helps limit the wear and movement of components due to engine vibration. A lot of aircraft explicitly design to allow for this wobble- if you start poking around blueprints, you'll notice that a lot of aircraft join the wings to the root / passthrough box with a pin / hinge system, where the pin is in the same orientation as the aircraft centerline, and is explicitly designed to allow for a small amount of movement.
This design is particularly easy to see with light aircraft like Cubs and Cessna's- if you pay attention in the cockpit, you can actually often see these joints in aircraft with high wings. The wing struts are also joined with these hinged connections.
The effect of this is particularly easy to see if you watch videos - or have been on a flight- of jetliners taking off. On the tarmac the wings are limp and droopy, and you can see a great amount of wobble with every illumination strip the pilot rumbles across. As the plane move down the runway, watch the wings- before the wheels leave the ground, the wings stiffen, and slowly bend upright until they take on a dihedral, which is particularly pronounced at V1. If you pay attention, for the rest of the flight, even in the worst turbulence, as long as the aircraft is flying and therefore under load the wings appear to be basically rigid.
@@TheWaggishAmerican your reply reminded me of a seen in Saving Private Ryan when one of the men starts complaining about the mission and goes into detail about how it is a waste of resources and then Tom Hanks says now that's how to grip
@@JIMIIXTLAN idk i just got excited to talk about airframe engineering lol.
at 13:20... what do you use to get rid of excess wash? thank you in advance
See my response on the other video you asked
I cleared it with Tamiya clear but when I added the wash it bled thru do you know why maybe I did not give the clear enough time to sit?
Gamingforfun 007 I always give clear at least two days to dry. Also which clear? If spray can, enamel wash will probably eat right through it
TheWaggishAmerican I gave it 2 hrs wait I think that was part of the problem I used acrylic pint and clear was the Tamiya spray can and as for the wash I used nupastel mixed with water and a drop of soap I think my problem was not waiting long enough and wear I touched it when I had cleared it that’s wear it looked bad but I tried fixing the plane and over all it came out ok just had a lot of weathering done done to it on my green zero it’s been 3 days since I cleared it so it should come out better
Gamingforfun 007 yeah it’s your drying time. Taniya spray cans need AT LEAST 24 hours to dry- should be 2-3 days.
TheWaggishAmerican thank you god bless
Nice job dude. Yeah, Tamiya decals...try Tamiya Strong Mark Fit, works well for the older thick Tamiya decals.
Thanks- I've gotten this suggestion several times on this video- I'll give it a purchase before my next Tamiya decal project.
what is "future" ? great vid, just picked up the model and some paints!
Its a floor polish by Pledge. I dont know what its calles now but they change name
Where’s the 1/32 Zero?
Sitting in a box 500 miles from where I am in the shelf of doom, unfortunately.
What colour did you use for the nose and the wheel wells?
Wheel wells was Tamoyas Metallic Blue, nose was black
Where is the drop tank supposed to go? I'm trying to build it myself. Instructions aren't the greatest!
Forgot to mention this for a6m3 zero not the 2!
Sorry, havent built one. Should be in the same general position
@@TheWaggishAmerican It is but the only hole there is, is for the front and not the back so the thing just sticks out!?
Can you do one next?🧐😜
@@sirknightjatv5134 sorry, I honestly have no idea. I most likely just cut the nubs off and position it wherever looks correct with superglue
I would love to have that
What color is that on Vallejo
Vallejo has a paint box set for IJN colors, but separately you would want to get IJN Ash Gray or Medium Gray.
I ended up buying the Japanese plane box I did the medium grey
作り方違うよ
Vey nice!, but that’s all.....😏
Can you tell me more what the Future stuff is ..and I think it wasn't to bad a build but if your like me I prefer 1/48 /32..due to my large fingers..look forward to the Zero 1/32..
3:08