Regarding your comment at the end about not having the antennae mast, the Tainan Kokutai (the fighter air group of this model), based in Rabaul and then New Guinea, removed all radio equipment (including antennae mast) to make their Zeros lighter to help save on fuel use. The pilots communicated with each other using hand signals.
The removable top layer of decals is a new development to me. I watched another modelers video where he actually sanded it off and it seemed to work better for him. I haven't done much modeling in recent years, but I'm starting to get the bug again. Beautifully done.
Great work! Maybe, you could try to spray on the japanese markings, next time? It's really easy and you even can play arround with different types of red, to make it less dull. But still a lovley airplane :-)
@@I16RATA thank you! Yep, definitely should have sprayed the insignia on this one haha. I do spray them on most of my recent builds, but unfortunately this one was before I started doing it 😂
Many cases the radio equipment and the antenna mast were removed to cut the weight of the aircraft even further! Anyway great build I think you've nailed the color really well!
Thanks for shedding light on the antenna, makes a lot more sense now! Been wondering about it lol. I'm also glad you like the colour, was conscious of it throughout the build so positive feedback on that is great to hear! 😀 Thanks very much for watching mate :)
Awesome work! Quick question on your Mr. Color mahogany primer. At one point, you’d mentioned that you didn’t have it thinned quite right. What was correct? 1:1.5? 1:2? Other? Thanks!
Depends on the nozzle size, your airbrush type, the pressure and moisture in the air - basically, there's no set dilution which is what makes it annoying sometimes haha. A good baseline is starting at 60:40 thinner to primer ratio, however most of the time this will need to be thinned further after experimentation. I normally do it roughly by eye, aiming for a consistency that resembles semi skinned milk
@@ModellingWeekly Point taken. Am using an Iwata HP-CS with .35mm needle. Trial and error, right? (hopefully not too may! 🙂). I was gonna start with a 1:1.5 ratio and then thin even further as needed.
Terrific job on the Zero.....very enjoyable watch......always a pleasure seeing your work. It's turned out really well, a pleasing result for sure so you must be happy (albeit the Hinomaru decals not behaving themselves!)
Hello, great build. Nice looking plane. Just one notice. You were building the B marking, which was in real made by Mitsubishi factory. They didn't use Aotake color for landing gear and shafts. They should be in plane's bottom color. Its even mentioned in the building manual.
@@ModellingWeekly Before I started to build my first japanese plane, I didnt know that either. :-) I just made research, because Aotake is not common color and Tamiya doesnt produce this shade. Thanks god, other producers started to make this color. Unfortunately, they are not identical.
@@Zvejkus Don't worry too much about the color. Aotake was not a specific color. In fact, aotake-covered sections on the same aircraft can vary. Aotake was naturally clear, so tinting was added to help ensure an even application. The colors vary from more green than blue, more blue than green, yellow-green, and everything in between. As long as you stay within these color shades, you can't be wrong.
Also, the data stencil on the left rear fuselage side will have either 三菱第 (Mitsubishi) or 中島第 (Nakajima) in the second row from the top, right-hand box. Some kits in 1/48 or larger will have a clear decal of this stencil and you can make out the first character of these. If the stencil decal is unique to the aircraft, this is how you can tell which factory made it and what color to paint the cockpit, wheel wells, and landing gear door interiors.
@@mtaylor44Well, I just bought IJN Paint set from AK Interactive, where Aotake is also present. So my dilemma with Aotake shades are solved. :-D Thank you for mention of the stencils. I didnt know there is some "table" on the plane saying which factory it was built in. Good point.
Historically, the rest of the aircraft could weather, paint chip, oil streak etc…, but the hinomaru, were almost always kept in near pristine condition. They were the Emperor’s personal symbol and as such merited the extra effort by the ground crew.
I’m using your finish mottling process modified a bit on my build. So far I have laid down the Mahogony, and first panel mottling using Veleho IJN grey with a touch of sail. Looks close to your example so far and I am pleased with how it’s going to this point. Thanks!
Sorry to be pedantic, but if you build another one, the dark coloured access hatch, outboard of the red fuel refill hatch, near the cannon bay was a window to inspect the cannon in the wing, not a fluid refill panel. There shouldn't be any spill stain, even though you did a really good job of it.
There could be no battle damages to Hinomaru which was a sacred symbol of Sun and Empire for Japanese. They renewed and repainted Hinomaru each time it was damaged literally at once. If you'll look at the war-time photos you'll see that Hinomaru are dright and new even on the planes which rest of surface is bit to shit.
muchas gracias amigo. De hecho, he hecho un p51 con un acabado metálico antes, que puedes encontrar en mi canal. ¡Un p47 definitivamente está en la lista!
Another fantastic build! Well done. I really wish I could become a Patron but my wife gripes enough about my hobby spending. Nonetheless know that I am a huge fan. Question though, I'm surprised you didn't paint the nation insignia , why use the decals instead? I hate the new Eduard decals they always tear on me no matter what I do. Still, I wish Eduatd would do f'4U corsair next.
Thanks so much mate! No worries at all about the membership, I totally understand haha. I really wanted to do the insignia with an airbrush, though I still need to get my hands on a circle cutter to be able to do this! Will definitely make sure I get my hands on one for the next build. Again, thanks very much man 😄
How do you get PE parts to stick with so little glue? I've tried thin CA glue, epoxy glue, and Gorilla Glue, but nothing will stick unless I use copious amounts of it which ruins the finished product. "Capillary action" with a toothpick or needle and it just doesn't work for me.
It's generally just a case of being really patient with them. I use a combination of black CA from VMS, along with isopropyl alcohol as an accelerator - I find it helps to create a stronger bond faster. Hope this helps
I can highly recommend the harder and steenbeck ultra, or the bd-130 from fengda if you are on a lower budget. Personally I use the harder and steenbeck infinity, though this is at a much higher price bracket
Really great build,just one point, The japanese insignia,err,the aircraft would never of flown with a damaged Hinomaru,the crews were severely punished if the Hinomaru (meatball) was damaged,or not properly taken care of.it was the symbol of Japanese might
@@ModellingWeekly when you said battle damage,that's OK,but it would of been repaired once it had landed,maybe mask and hand paint the red back in,that would be real battle damage,I have the dual combo so you have helped a great deal,thank you.
And, in the Japanese military (Army AND Navy) "severely punished) literally meant they could be beaten with fists and batons, often to the point of requiring medical treatment. Some died from it.
Such a great job dude, congratulations! These new Eduard's decals keep me away from their new models. I've tried them on MIG-21 and Hurricane, they're useless. Can't they just make thin decals like Techmod or Hasegawa instead reinventing the wheel?
I'm almost finished with my build. It's an extremely good kit, but these 'new style' eduard decals are not great to work with. I just tested peeling off the film from some of the decals. Some stayed intact, some tore. The problem with these decals is that they're not truly wet transfers, although the film is totally separate from the colour, nothing guarantees that the decal doesn't too peel off. Especially those that have a big proportion of film compared to the size of the decal, like stencils, don't really stick well enough. I used tamiya decal adhesive, but it doesn't really help if the stencil - and area that has glue on it - is tiny, and the film is excessively large. Most of the decals don't look that bad even with the film on top, but on the hinomarus the film looks absolutely horrible, they must be peeled.
Totally agree with this. I struggled with the peeling massively, it feels like the design idea is there but hasn't been perfected yet. Hinomarus struggled the most with it in my experience, as you could see on the right hand side fuselage!
Well, it doesn't sound promising concerning the hinomarus. I probably should have used my aftermarket techmod hinomarus. If they tear, my plan b is to remove them completely and make masks with a compass cutter and paint them. Didn't you build the weekend bf 109g-6 (which I've got in my stash) some months ago, IIRC you left the film on, and it looked ok.
@@thekinksfan5102 yup, with some varnish layers they did turn out pretty good on the bf109 I did! Good luck with yours mate, hope they turn out looking good 👍🏻
@@ModellingWeekly thanks and good to hear that those decals are all right. Keep the build videos coming, they are entertaining and relaxing to watch, which can not always be said about actual scale modelling!
How is the ease of construction and the parts fit? I am still working on my 2015 Eduard Polikarpov kit-that has beautiful surface detail, misleading instructions, and zero respect for parts fit.
The double box doesn't have e a single Pear Harbour attack variant option - there is only one 1941 variant in the box and it's a Nov 1941 scheme of a plane that was based on Taiwan.
I'm a bit perplexed. The Hinomaru was held in complete respect by its people. The broken decals would have warranted repair and completion, would they not? I'm not seeing how a respectable, disciplined Japanese ground crew would let a pilot face the enemy with flawed emblem.
Yeah it would have, its just an excuse for accidentally breaking the decal lol. Nothing more to it :) I would have patched it up, but I would never have got the tone spot on and it would have looked weird. Wanted to spray them all anyway, but don't have a means of making circular masks
@@ModellingWeekly hey, thank you. Please don't take it as a snarky criticism. I was engrossed by your commentary, so was a tad confused by the conflict between your passion and research and that little glitch in outcome. Hey, it's modeling, so some 'learning points' occur! Thank you!
People just don't know how to build WWII Japanese aircraft. 99.9% beat the s..t out them, which is 99.9% inaccurate. Like in this case, there was NO WAY IN THE WORLD that Zero would chip to bare metal. Before HIGH QUALITY PAINT application (J3 SP amber grey) aircraft was primed with red oxide paint. It shows on the wrecks today, 80 years after war! Mitsubishi build aircraft, as they all were in Tainan Kokutai, painted wheel wells in the same, overall amber grey paint. And I'm sure it's stated in the kit instructions. Landing gear legs were NEVER painted in aotake, never. They were steel and right paint for it was black.
Hope you enjoy! Forgot to mention in the video yet again, this build was for my discord server's Pacific Themed GB :D
Looks like my GB idea was a success.
@@modelmagic9930 👌🏻
Отличная работа! Лежит такой на сборку. Удачных сборок и новых видео!👍✊️
Great work as usual.
Thank you :)
Regarding your comment at the end about not having the antennae mast, the Tainan Kokutai (the fighter air group of this model), based in Rabaul and then New Guinea, removed all radio equipment (including antennae mast) to make their Zeros lighter to help save on fuel use. The pilots communicated with each other using hand signals.
The removable top layer of decals is a new development to me. I watched another modelers video where he actually sanded it off and it seemed to work better for him. I haven't done much modeling in recent years, but I'm starting to get the bug again. Beautifully done.
Many thanks! Yeah totally, it does seem to be an imperfect new feature, though hopefully it becomes more refined in the future!
Great work! Maybe, you could try to spray on the japanese markings, next time? It's really easy and you even can play arround with different types of red, to make it less dull. But still a lovley airplane :-)
@@I16RATA thank you! Yep, definitely should have sprayed the insignia on this one haha. I do spray them on most of my recent builds, but unfortunately this one was before I started doing it 😂
Wow! The removal of the decal layer is amazing!
Excellent work my friend. Congratulations.
Many cases the radio equipment and the antenna mast were removed to cut the weight of the aircraft even further! Anyway great build I think you've nailed the color really well!
Thanks for shedding light on the antenna, makes a lot more sense now! Been wondering about it lol. I'm also glad you like the colour, was conscious of it throughout the build so positive feedback on that is great to hear! 😀 Thanks very much for watching mate :)
One of your best models yet! Awesone job mate! no discord plug in the video tho 😂
Thanks so much Jake! Yeah haha, forgot to add it again lol. Pinned comment!
As you said the Zero would seem to be an unremarkable bird....until you see this beauty. Nice one sir.
Thanks so much! Glad you like the finish :)
Looks fantastic!!! Love the weathering you did. Makes the model pop. Thanks for sharing, happy days and model on! 😎
I really appreciate your kind words and ongoing support my man! Have a good one mate :D
Beautiful build. I’ll be binge watching your channel for sure.
Ah thanks very much mate, glad you enjoyed 😊
A really nice build, great job big MW!
Thanks redox mate!!
Awesome build 👏 really inspirational because I'm starting exact kit this weekend 😁
Thank you mate! Have fun with your build!
Awesome process
Many thanks 😄
Fantastic job thanks, I'm just about to start this model
Awesome work! Quick question on your Mr. Color mahogany primer. At one point, you’d mentioned that you didn’t have it thinned quite right. What was correct? 1:1.5? 1:2? Other? Thanks!
Depends on the nozzle size, your airbrush type, the pressure and moisture in the air - basically, there's no set dilution which is what makes it annoying sometimes haha. A good baseline is starting at 60:40 thinner to primer ratio, however most of the time this will need to be thinned further after experimentation. I normally do it roughly by eye, aiming for a consistency that resembles semi skinned milk
@@ModellingWeekly Point taken. Am using an Iwata HP-CS with .35mm needle. Trial and error, right? (hopefully not too may! 🙂). I was gonna start with a 1:1.5 ratio and then thin even further as needed.
@@13coog yep, pretty much! The 60/40 ratio is always a good place to start 👍
Lovely. I am more interested in the Wildcats, but all Eduard kits are a joy to look at!
Glad you're looking forward to it!
Terrific job on the Zero.....very enjoyable watch......always a pleasure seeing your work. It's turned out really well, a pleasing result for sure so you must be happy (albeit the Hinomaru decals not behaving themselves!)
Thanks so much for your kind words mate, I really appreciate it! Glad you enjoyed 😄
hello, great great work, can I ask where did you buy the final marbling layer?
Thanks! Purchased from scalemodelshop.co.uk, though if you search 'AK interactive painting mask' I'm sure it'll be elsewhere!
What color of Gray did you use on the Engine Gearbox???
Hey! I believe it was a custom mix of Vallejo model colour black and white, which I handbrushed on :)
awesome build
Thanks a lot man!
How much ratio for yellow green? Brilliant model!
In terms of thinning ratio? About 2 parts paint and 1 part thinner :)
Very nice, looks awesome
Glad you like it :D
Very nice and enjoyable video and model... Love your work!
Thanks so much! I really Appreciate it :D
Nice Build!
Hello, great build. Nice looking plane. Just one notice. You were building the B marking, which was in real made by Mitsubishi factory. They didn't use Aotake color for landing gear and shafts. They should be in plane's bottom color. Its even mentioned in the building manual.
Glad you like it! My bad on the colour
@@ModellingWeekly Before I started to build my first japanese plane, I didnt know that either. :-) I just made research, because Aotake is not common color and Tamiya doesnt produce this shade. Thanks god, other producers started to make this color. Unfortunately, they are not identical.
@@Zvejkus Don't worry too much about the color. Aotake was not a specific color. In fact, aotake-covered sections on the same aircraft can vary. Aotake was naturally clear, so tinting was added to help ensure an even application. The colors vary from more green than blue, more blue than green, yellow-green, and everything in between. As long as you stay within these color shades, you can't be wrong.
Also, the data stencil on the left rear fuselage side will have either 三菱第 (Mitsubishi) or 中島第 (Nakajima) in the second row from the top, right-hand box. Some kits in 1/48 or larger will have a clear decal of this stencil and you can make out the first character of these. If the stencil decal is unique to the aircraft, this is how you can tell which factory made it and what color to paint the cockpit, wheel wells, and landing gear door interiors.
@@mtaylor44Well, I just bought IJN Paint set from AK Interactive, where Aotake is also present. So my dilemma with Aotake shades are solved. :-D Thank you for mention of the stencils. I didnt know there is some "table" on the plane saying which factory it was built in. Good point.
Historically, the rest of the aircraft could weather, paint chip, oil streak etc…, but the hinomaru, were almost always kept in near pristine condition. They were the Emperor’s personal symbol and as such merited the extra effort by the ground crew.
Good to know! I sort of knew this when I made the model, but the decals ripped so I just passed it off as battle damage 😂
I’m using your finish mottling process modified a bit on my build. So far I have laid down the Mahogony, and first panel mottling using Veleho IJN grey with a touch of sail. Looks close to your example so far and I am pleased with how it’s going to this point. Thanks!
Nice work
I recently purchased my first Eduard kit of the 109G-14 profipack with photo etch which should be a fun build
It'll be a great one! Enjoy it mate
I will. Even with all the other kits I got on the weekend which are 1/48 or 35th
Sorry to be pedantic, but if you build another one, the dark coloured access hatch, outboard of the red fuel refill hatch, near the cannon bay was a window to inspect the cannon in the wing, not a fluid refill panel. There shouldn't be any spill stain, even though you did a really good job of it.
Excellent work mate, sorry you had a few issues with the decals, might need something a touch stronger than microset.
Awesome paintwork!
Thanks very much James! Yeah, I'm thinking they might need a bit of Mr. Mark setter or the like next time, just to make sure they stick down properly
@@ModellingWeekly I have had brill results so far with the VMS set and fix when I used em, haven't tried mark setter seems hard to get here?
@@lpjmodels yeah, seems tricky to find. I'll check out the VMS stuff!
I liked the seizure that the camera had when you put the landing gear on lol
Shhhh....don't mind that!
Beautiful 🤩
Haha thanks! 😄
There could be no battle damages to Hinomaru which was a sacred symbol of Sun and Empire for Japanese.
They renewed and repainted Hinomaru each time it was damaged literally at once.
If you'll look at the war-time photos you'll see that Hinomaru are dright and new even on the planes which rest of surface is bit to shit.
I'm aware, just a lackluster attempt at covering up the fact I tore a decal lol
Отличная работа!👍👍👍
Exelente trabajo mi amigo, disfrute el video. Ojala despues pudieras hacer un P-51 o un P-47 en acabado metalico
muchas gracias amigo. De hecho, he hecho un p51 con un acabado metálico antes, que puedes encontrar en mi canal. ¡Un p47 definitivamente está en la lista!
the black dot on the wing aren’t fuel filler caps, they’re glass windows to see into the MG bays 🙏🏻
Ahhhh thanks for the info haha
@@ModellingWeekly no problem 🙏🏻 great build either way, esp with how the main color turned out in the end
@@tony_bird thank you very much my man, glad you enjoyed
Another fantastic build! Well done. I really wish I could become a Patron but my wife gripes enough about my hobby spending. Nonetheless know that I am a huge fan. Question though, I'm surprised you didn't paint the nation insignia , why use the decals instead? I hate the new Eduard decals they always tear on me no matter what I do. Still, I wish Eduatd would do f'4U corsair next.
Thanks so much mate! No worries at all about the membership, I totally understand haha. I really wanted to do the insignia with an airbrush, though I still need to get my hands on a circle cutter to be able to do this! Will definitely make sure I get my hands on one for the next build. Again, thanks very much man 😄
How do you get PE parts to stick with so little glue? I've tried thin CA glue, epoxy glue, and Gorilla Glue, but nothing will stick unless I use copious amounts of it which ruins the finished product. "Capillary action" with a toothpick or needle and it just doesn't work for me.
It's generally just a case of being really patient with them. I use a combination of black CA from VMS, along with isopropyl alcohol as an accelerator - I find it helps to create a stronger bond faster. Hope this helps
nice job
Great build thanks for sharing ✌Canada✌
My pleasure!
I know you probably won't see this but what airbrush do you use or recommend for beginners
I can highly recommend the harder and steenbeck ultra, or the bd-130 from fengda if you are on a lower budget. Personally I use the harder and steenbeck infinity, though this is at a much higher price bracket
@@ModellingWeekly oh wow thanks
@@ModellingWeekly do they come with air compressors or not I'd if they dint come with air compressors can you recommend any
@@Tweetsix no they don't, any compressor with an air tank is fine
@@ModellingWeekly thanks and sorry to bother you but can they both be found on Amazon or what website shouldi. Check for
Why am I watching this instead of finishing up my hornet lmao
Quick, quick! Haha
Finish your damn hornet. You’ve got 2 days
@@aaronhutt274 yep... Now one day twenty-two hours
Alot of the Zeros at this time of the war removed the radios and antenna to lighten the fighter.
Really great build,just one point,
The japanese insignia,err,the aircraft would never of flown with a damaged Hinomaru,the crews were severely punished if the Hinomaru (meatball) was damaged,or not properly taken care of.it was the symbol of Japanese might
Many thanks for the info! Wasn't exactly the plan haha, they kinda ripped when taking the cover film off lol
@@ModellingWeekly when you said battle damage,that's OK,but it would of been repaired once it had landed,maybe mask and hand paint the red back in,that would be real battle damage,I have the dual combo so you have helped a great deal,thank you.
And, in the Japanese military (Army AND Navy) "severely punished) literally meant they could be beaten with fists and batons, often to the point of requiring medical treatment. Some died from it.
Only a word…. WOW
Haha thank you so much my man 😄
Damn fine job sir
Thanks :D
Super !!
Such a great job dude, congratulations! These new Eduard's decals keep me away from their new models. I've tried them on MIG-21 and Hurricane, they're useless. Can't they just make thin decals like Techmod or Hasegawa instead reinventing the wheel?
Thanks very much mate! Very much agree on the decals front. They are just simply overcomplicated, and prone to disasters lol
It is said that Japanese pilots would remove the cockpit radios to save weight, thus, the reason this configuration lacks need of wire antennae.
I'm almost finished with my build. It's an extremely good kit, but these 'new style' eduard decals are not great to work with. I just tested peeling off the film from some of the decals. Some stayed intact, some tore. The problem with these decals is that they're not truly wet transfers, although the film is totally separate from the colour, nothing guarantees that the decal doesn't too peel off. Especially those that have a big proportion of film compared to the size of the decal, like stencils, don't really stick well enough. I used tamiya decal adhesive, but it doesn't really help if the stencil - and area that has glue on it - is tiny, and the film is excessively large. Most of the decals don't look that bad even with the film on top, but on the hinomarus the film looks absolutely horrible, they must be peeled.
Totally agree with this. I struggled with the peeling massively, it feels like the design idea is there but hasn't been perfected yet. Hinomarus struggled the most with it in my experience, as you could see on the right hand side fuselage!
Well, it doesn't sound promising concerning the hinomarus. I probably should have used my aftermarket techmod hinomarus. If they tear, my plan b is to remove them completely and make masks with a compass cutter and paint them. Didn't you build the weekend bf 109g-6 (which I've got in my stash) some months ago, IIRC you left the film on, and it looked ok.
@@thekinksfan5102 yup, with some varnish layers they did turn out pretty good on the bf109 I did! Good luck with yours mate, hope they turn out looking good 👍🏻
@@ModellingWeekly thanks and good to hear that those decals are all right. Keep the build videos coming, they are entertaining and relaxing to watch, which can not always be said about actual scale modelling!
不错，感谢！
10/10
😎 thanks bro
@@ModellingWeekly what are you doing up so late, we have a maths test on Wednesday
@@judeclulow8049 shhhhhh
@@ModellingWeekly a model student, ladies and gentlemen😂
How is the ease of construction and the parts fit? I am still working on my 2015 Eduard Polikarpov kit-that has beautiful surface detail, misleading instructions, and zero respect for parts fit.
能不能加中文字幕，謝謝您
Hey, I believe the video has auto generated captions but I'm not sure - I'll check now and then them on if they're not on already!
The double box doesn't have e a single Pear Harbour attack variant option - there is only one 1941 variant in the box and it's a Nov 1941 scheme of a plane that was based on Taiwan.
i have two eduard box of zero one A6M2 type 11 and the famous combo box TORA TORA oh
yeah
I'm a bit perplexed. The Hinomaru was held in complete respect by its people. The broken decals would have warranted repair and completion, would they not? I'm not seeing how a respectable, disciplined Japanese ground crew would let a pilot face the enemy with flawed emblem.
Yeah it would have, its just an excuse for accidentally breaking the decal lol. Nothing more to it :) I would have patched it up, but I would never have got the tone spot on and it would have looked weird. Wanted to spray them all anyway, but don't have a means of making circular masks
@@ModellingWeekly hey, thank you. Please don't take it as a snarky criticism. I was engrossed by your commentary, so was a tad confused by the conflict between your passion and research and that little glitch in outcome.
Hey, it's modeling, so some 'learning points' occur!
Thank you!
@@Beniah107 all good my man! Glad you enjoyed overall 👍🏻
1942年8月7日ラバウル 台南航空隊所属 1等飛行兵曹 坂井三郎搭乗機
People just don't know how to build WWII Japanese aircraft. 99.9% beat the s..t out them, which is 99.9% inaccurate. Like in this case, there was NO WAY IN THE WORLD that Zero would chip to bare metal. Before HIGH QUALITY PAINT application (J3 SP amber grey) aircraft was primed with red oxide paint. It shows on the wrecks today, 80 years after war! Mitsubishi build aircraft, as they all were in Tainan Kokutai, painted wheel wells in the same, overall amber grey paint. And I'm sure it's stated in the kit instructions. Landing gear legs were NEVER painted in aotake, never. They were steel and right paint for it was black.
Thanks for the info