Ive been running the 48mm lectron on my fxr with an s&s 124 for about 4 years. Took Kevin a few trys at finding a good grind on the metering rod to get dialed in for a big motor but after a few it was ok. I run an air fuel meter so i was able to fine tune on the road. Dont have to touch it much. The idle circuit is the best ive ever heard. I have a few videos on my youtube if you want to hear it
I saw a vid from Shade Tree where he installed a brand new Lectron on his HD and it worked a treat. These carbs seem to be old teck but like an old amal or Mikuni you do have a lot of adjustment with needles and slides, it just takes a bit of stuffing around like carbs sometimes do.
Gotta love the custom made VOES vacuum line plug! You had mentioned once in a previous video that I commented on to hit you with any topics we'd like to see covered. Personally, I'd love to see a breakdown of the VOES system: how exactly it works, how to tune it, how to remove it, etc. Another topic I think would be fascinating is the modifications required to convert an EVO motor to a kicker system.
Hahah I almost forgot about that “temporary” fix that’s been on there almost two years now! As for the VOES, I can definitely tell you how to remove it, and I will add that (with the kicker part too) to the video topic list. As far as tuning the voes, I need to go to school before I can put that video out haha, I will do some research on it though and see if I can’t sum it up
@@djd34d14 If you have an electronic ignition, technically you can disconnect and plug the VOES. My confusion is whether to ground the VOES wire, or simply cap it. Then there's the question of what to change on the ignition module switches... So yeah, converting to points may just be simpler lol
I put a Dyna S on my Evo, plugged the VOES vacuum port on the carb (HSR42) and used a good quality (stainless steel) mechanical advance - she kicks much easier and runs like a stabbed rat! @@Lochlann13
I'm glad i watched this, I'm OCD and that fuel line would have driven me nuts. I just found a bunch of 90 degree fuel line bits that you just measure your tube, cut and bond. You can really tuck that fuel line up and away nice and pretty.
Just carb converted my '00 Road King. Save yourself a headache. I used the sifting 40 mm carb. All stock and aftermarket parts for the cv carb Harley uses works with it. It fired right up and haven't done any adjustments yet but it runs up and down the road beautifully. You also have to change out the ignition module
Thanks for posting this. Now I know not to get one of those. By the way... That chain alignment tool video was very helpful. I bought one and wow... I thought I was good on my adjustment already until I used the tool to take a look. All good now.
Isn’t it wild? I thought the same and it was surprising to see how far off I was. Glad it helped man! Great channel btw, been enjoying your vids for a while now
Following because I'm also working with a Lectron HD 400 right now and there is nothing out there about these in depth, aside from a handful of old videos from Lectron. Mine was pouring gas, also thought it was a stuck float... took the bowl off, and it was fine. They recommend spraying WD-40 in the fuel inlet directly, followed by low PSI compressed air through the fuel line (plugged back into the inlet) to clean the fuel intake portion. Mine has stopped dumping gas since, but I'm waiting on the meter rod tool in the mail still to dive into the fine tuning
I must say, I was intrigued about the not having the buy jets portion of these carbs but if I have to buy metering rods and metering rod tools I feel like it’s the same devil, still more pieces to buy. I will see if I can’t get by with just tuning the metering rod I have. Hope you get a resolution as well man
I believe you can adjust it with your fingers, the tool seems to make the job easier and a little more precise. It was $20 from them directly. I want to keep the carb and learn it. I hope I'm headed in the right direction!
@@Lochlann13 haha me too! They say getting the ball rolling is the hardest part. I’ll get there eventually. But honestly I don’t want anything to keep or for myself, it would just be nice to be able to show people things they’re interested in without going broke doing it lol. Thanks for tuning in every week man 🤘🏼
Haha, it's definitely the one I like the most as of right now. But if I bought direct from Lectron this might have been a more straightforward process. Hard to say for sure.
if you are having high idle and turning the ISS in all the way with no change, chances are that you're running on the metering rod and not on the idle circuit. There is a factory spec for the length of the metering rod that might need to be reset for your specific bike.
Having just made some changes on mine and having to disassemble the carb every time it doesnt do what i expected it to on a certain jet combo, this sounds like a dream. But hearing that one idle like that doesnt sound quite like a dream. Looking forward to part 2 where you wake me up or put a lectron on my wishlist. #cvforme #exceptforwhenitactuallyneedstuning
Yea man I can’t imagine having to disassemble the whole thing every time! But hey the super E is a good in between option man. Can pop the jets out in no time and dialing it in is a little more straightforward than these lectrons
Can't wait to see part 2. I've been considering one of these but the jury's still out until I can get some more information. Like you said, there's not a whole lot of reviews out there. BTW, that's a really cool jacket you have on, is it an Aero? You make very helpful and informative videos; keep 'em coming!
Yes it’s a tricky one to figure out, I’ll need another week or two to get part 2 together. The jacket is made by Schott, imo the best USA manufacturer of motorcycle jackets. This was a d pocket model they produced for legendary USA back in 2015 with horsehide leather, I hope to have it for the rest of my life
@greasesgarage Very nice! I have a 118 in cowhide and a 618 in horsehide and will probably get a 613 in steerhide soon. I was also looking at a J-106 Aero which is a D-pocket style, because three Schotts is enough, I think. Thanks for the replies!
@@chipmartin7608ayy a fellow jacket enthusiast, that’s awesome! I had both of those before this one and kept buying and selling only ever keeping one at a time. Had a 613 for a bit there too. But once I got into bikes more deeply I went for one with a little looser fit to allow some layers. Schotts horsehide on this model is fantastic, I believe i only paid $400 for it back too, on sale at legendary. Maybe I’ll do a video on riding gear and get some better shots of this and some of the other gear that’s saved my skin
@@chipmartin7608btw, I’ve also looked at those Aeros, their HH looks even better than Schott honestly. Just hard to find anywhere in the US that has them for sizing
How did you get on with part 2 great video, I’ve got a standard 97 fatboy, love it. Have been looking at S&S cost a few $ here in New Zealand, I like your engine breather filters, nice and clean, do you have a link for them, plus your bike looks mint, I’ve got a hard tail frame, I’ve got to get onto, great inspiration , can’t wait to see more of your clips
I never did get around to part 2. Half because I needed it running for another video and the other half due to lack of interest. I can’t recommend it personally but some people swear by them. I prefer my super E
What happened to part 2?....Choke and enrichener are NOT the same thing. A choke restricts air flow which pulls more fuel and an enrichener actually lets in more fuel without restricting air flow..
You just have a bad carburetor I have never had any problems with my carburetor it runs awesome but the one you have has been sitting for a long time and needs to be rebuilt
I have had the CV S&S and mikuni on my Harleys. I had a lectron on a 2 stroke. To me the best one for the Harleys is the S&S. All of them have pluses and minuses but for me the S&S just always works. The CV and mikuni are temperamental and requires rebuild more often. Haven't tried the Lectron on the harley but have thought about it but prefer the simplicity of the super e
Maybe I'm just noticing little stuff that doesn't matter, but it seemed like the mounting surface on your manifold wasn't very clean. There might have been enough on there to cause a vacuum leak. Just throwing it out there. That could also be causing your idle problems.
It could be. I have since reinstalled the super e on the bike (see my kickstart video) and it runs perfectly so I am inclined to believe it’s something to do with how I’ve got the settings on the lectron
Maybe the throttle cable is a bit short? The throttle slide is held high and is not controlled by the adjustment screw. Otherwise, from what I see, it seems to me that this is a rather primitive carburetor.
If you have a high idle and the screw doesn’t do anything you need to open up the slide and reinstall it. There’s a process to it. If you look up the PDF installation manual, it’ll specify how. Lectron is horrible with documentation actually. Not your fault. It’s easy to miss. Trust me, I’ve battled running on my FXR. It ain’t plug and play. But it’s a nice carb for what it is
You basically have to slightly crack the throttle open before you fully torque down the top screws on the slide housing screws. Once torqued release the throttle. Then you’ll notice the adjustment screw doing something to the slide height.
@mcluvinole9098 That makes a lot of sense, like the slide has to sit on the screw right before it can be adjusted up or down, you know simple common sense tricks like you and I know, is what the " YOUNG COMPUTER TUNING GUYS" get lost at..lol....I was thinking at first the choke was pulled, hence the smoke and unadjustable idle🤔
what tube are you using for the throttle cable? I've been running one on a 98 Dyna. I've had allot of issues with the throttle sticking, either the slide isn't completely closing from airflow or going to a single cable setup. I've also had the same issue with fuel flow, I'll have to try your suggestion. great video. Thanks.
Throttle cable is from lectron. In watching the video back I don’t think it’s from the throttle cable being too short as one commenter suggested because even when showing the carb without the throttle cable attached that slide stays slightly open at the bottom
Well.....I look at the price point of purchasing the carb, then the fuel economy provided....at twice the price I don't see enough value to make me switch from the easily rebuilt, very dependable with good fuel economy CV on my 93 Evo.
Yeah i wasnt to impress with mine didnt like how the throttle was still when running and was smooth when engine was off and you couldnt full choke or even 1/4 choke without being way to rich fouled plugs then the choke itself just quiet working all together had this white crusty stuff in it when i pulled the plunger out yeah went back to my cv40
My most honest recommendation is the S&S. For the simple things you do most on a carb. Extended screws available that allow you to adjust it by finger at a light, throttle cable is externally mounted and easy to remove, parts available everywhere because it’s one of the most popular carbs, every cool air cleaner made is always made for S&S…there’s a lot to love.
The video didn’t generate the interest I was hoping for so I put the topic away for the foreseeable future. If I see more comments or questions on this topic I can revisit it but most of my audience didn’t seem interested as compared to videos I’ve done on other carbs
For me I bought this carburetor For Road King model 2000 I have headache with it..👎 Only one think is good The power I feel there is different from before
won't spare a review carb fk em. Plus they're pretty damn expensive imho. Did you ever get it dialed in, discover the problem with the (supposedly good-to-go) factory settings? Anyway thanks for sparing us the struggle..!
The lineage is from the OLD POSA carb from circa 1970.. Then it was cross bread between Amal, Mikuni and POSA.... Not a very good carb as it only works well on one setting. All other throttle positions are a compromise.
The floats stick! And if you leave your bike sitting for more than a month the metering rod will get stuck to where the throttle will not work! When you try to unstick it the metering rod will pull out of the slide housing. On your bike you need to turn the metering rod out one eighth of a turn and turn your fuel in one eighth of a turn and it will idle fine. My hd400 I bought was 1,000.00 Dollars not a cheap investment but once you figure out how to set it you will find your performance of your bike will be a changed animal.
I’ll try this with the metering rod. I don’t believe the float is stuck though I took the bowl off and moved it around I’d be surprised if it was still stuck
@@greasesgarage thanks for your reply....if I'd of waited and watched your whole vid before sending my question I would of heard about the air cleaner attachment....my bad....I'm running an S&S with a thunder jet set up and i'm experiencing a short hesitation in the mid range....I was thinking of replacing it with the lectron carb....just wondering when you are releasing the follow up vid on how you fine tuned the lectron to eliminate the teething probs you were having with it....
As far as I know, you can, as long as they will physically fit the manifold on your Shadow. You'll need a Mikuni 48mm push-in manifold or similar. Lectron sells their carbs by displacement; they have a v-twin carb for motors from 53ci - 100ci, and a carb for motors larger than 100ci.
@@Lochlann13 @greasesgarage ..ok but why i would do that..yeh whats the benefit of it . Would i gain more mailes per galon or a litle bit of horses power or more torque ..because gain a bit more miles per galón would be a very good reason to buy one …and i was wondering that would be awesome if exist a kit for made a carburated bike into a fuel inyected.. maybe is too crazy that think but would be great that some brand or companies start to sell those kind of kits..
@@carlosviedas199 The benefit of the Lectron, in my experience, is the throttle response improvement, a wider, more linear power band, and increased reliability. I've heard that they also slightly increase horsepower, but can't confirm that myself. They do make kits to convert a carbureted motorcycle to a fuel injection system, but they're pretty expensive from what I recall. If you don't want to hire a shop to install it for you, you'd have to know a fair bit about wiring, electronics, and engine tuning to get it running right.
This one is USA made, by Schott for LegendaryUSA (retailer) they called it their “black stallion” model as it’s a horsehide version of the old D pocket buco design. Unfortunately it’s no longer available and the one they sell now is not made by Schott. I have seen those Japanese ones made by the real McCoys they look incredible
I'll go ahead and address the elephant in the room. The super E is rubbish. It's missing an entire fuel circuit, hence the invention of the Zippers power jet. Another certified H-D technician calls it a controlled fuel leak. I have had great success with the Mikuni HSR-42 on several projects but I'm ready to try a Lectron.
Man I'm interested on your Lectron journey. I Have a crate 124 S&S engine I will be installing this winter, and I'm thinking of going to a Lectron, currently I have a Zippers Stage 2 carb and would love the ease of that Lectron. Keep me in mind if you go that route💪
@@greasesgarage Back when I was young and riding Shovels I switched back and forth between the S&S and the Mikuni.I think the Mikuni metered better and could take wether changes without needing adjustment.
It isn't junk. But, I don't see enough benefit to replace my S&S or CV with a Lectron. If I were building another bike and needed a carburetor, I would investigate the Lectron. I can see a great advantage for riding in the mountains were elevation changes rapidly.
Honestly it’s refreshing to hear when a small business refuses to give free stuff to influencers.
I’m glad it makes you happy
Agreed.
Eh, the more money in Grease’ pocket the more super niche content (that there is little enough of already) for us to enjoy
Agreed
You got my thumbs up for enunciating intents and purposes so well lol
For all intensive porpoises 🐬
Ive been running the 48mm lectron on my fxr with an s&s 124 for about 4 years. Took Kevin a few trys at finding a good grind on the metering rod to get dialed in for a big motor but after a few it was ok. I run an air fuel meter so i was able to fine tune on the road. Dont have to touch it much. The idle circuit is the best ive ever heard. I have a few videos on my youtube if you want to hear it
I will definitely check those out thanks for sharing brotha
I saw a vid from Shade Tree where he installed a brand new Lectron on his HD and it worked a treat. These carbs seem to be old teck but like an old amal or Mikuni you do have a lot of adjustment with needles and slides, it just takes a bit of stuffing around like carbs sometimes do.
I saw that one. Lucky dog. I’m sure my experience isn’t typical, I’ve heard a lot of people just plug and play
Gotta love the custom made VOES vacuum line plug!
You had mentioned once in a previous video that I commented on to hit you with any topics we'd like to see covered. Personally, I'd love to see a breakdown of the VOES system: how exactly it works, how to tune it, how to remove it, etc. Another topic I think would be fascinating is the modifications required to convert an EVO motor to a kicker system.
My '84 EVO came from the factory with a kicker and electric starter.
Hahah I almost forgot about that “temporary” fix that’s been on there almost two years now!
As for the VOES, I can definitely tell you how to remove it, and I will add that (with the kicker part too) to the video topic list.
As far as tuning the voes, I need to go to school before I can put that video out haha, I will do some research on it though and see if I can’t sum it up
I'm guessing the simple answer to removing VOES is points eh? 😅
@@djd34d14 If you have an electronic ignition, technically you can disconnect and plug the VOES. My confusion is whether to ground the VOES wire, or simply cap it. Then there's the question of what to change on the ignition module switches...
So yeah, converting to points may just be simpler lol
I put a Dyna S on my Evo, plugged the VOES vacuum port on the carb (HSR42) and used a good quality (stainless steel) mechanical advance - she kicks much easier and runs like a stabbed rat! @@Lochlann13
I'm glad i watched this, I'm OCD and that fuel line would have driven me nuts. I just found a bunch of 90 degree fuel line bits that you just measure your tube, cut and bond. You can really tuck that fuel line up and away nice and pretty.
I've been wanting to convert my 2003 twin cam 88 to carb. I like the way this sets up and works.
Just carb converted my '00 Road King. Save yourself a headache. I used the sifting 40 mm carb. All stock and aftermarket parts for the cv carb Harley uses works with it. It fired right up and haven't done any adjustments yet but it runs up and down the road beautifully. You also have to change out the ignition module
@shameless5868 i was curious about the module. I've got an 03 RK. Appreciate the advise.
Thanks for posting this. Now I know not to get one of those. By the way... That chain alignment tool video was very helpful. I bought one and wow... I thought I was good on my adjustment already until I used the tool to take a look. All good now.
Isn’t it wild? I thought the same and it was surprising to see how far off I was. Glad it helped man! Great channel btw, been enjoying your vids for a while now
Mine works excellent on my rebuild shovel,bought it straight from lectron.
No problems so far? Do you ever need to use the choke?
No problemen,it runs perfect. No choke needed
Good stuff thanks! I wouldn't mind seeing a video on rebuilding a CV carb
Cv carb mod video from outlaw trader is the place to go for a well tuned cv carb
Great video! Grateful for the next day phase glad to know on mechanics of things there are others out there who struggle 😂
Following because I'm also working with a Lectron HD 400 right now and there is nothing out there about these in depth, aside from a handful of old videos from Lectron.
Mine was pouring gas, also thought it was a stuck float... took the bowl off, and it was fine. They recommend spraying WD-40 in the fuel inlet directly, followed by low PSI compressed air through the fuel line (plugged back into the inlet) to clean the fuel intake portion. Mine has stopped dumping gas since, but I'm waiting on the meter rod tool in the mail still to dive into the fine tuning
I must say, I was intrigued about the not having the buy jets portion of these carbs but if I have to buy metering rods and metering rod tools I feel like it’s the same devil, still more pieces to buy. I will see if I can’t get by with just tuning the metering rod I have.
Hope you get a resolution as well man
I believe you can adjust it with your fingers, the tool seems to make the job easier and a little more precise. It was $20 from them directly. I want to keep the carb and learn it. I hope I'm headed in the right direction!
Would be nice to see a SU or Mikuni HSR42 set-up - both reputedly kick-friendly carbs
I think the SU is one of the coolest looking carbs out there, if I could get my hands on one I’d make a video on it for sure
@@greasesgarage I look forward to the day where companies are clamoring to send you stuff to test!
@@Lochlann13 haha me too! They say getting the ball rolling is the hardest part. I’ll get there eventually.
But honestly I don’t want anything to keep or for myself, it would just be nice to be able to show people things they’re interested in without going broke doing it lol.
Thanks for tuning in every week man 🤘🏼
Great job explaining the installation. I think I will stick with my stock carb as it works great. Not impressed with this new carb.
Sounds like the Super E is the best option to me
Haha, it's definitely the one I like the most as of right now. But if I bought direct from Lectron this might have been a more straightforward process. Hard to say for sure.
if you are having high idle and turning the ISS in all the way with no change, chances are that you're running on the metering rod and not on the idle circuit. There is a factory spec for the length of the metering rod that might need to be reset for your specific bike.
This is good to know! Going to check on this and put that process in the part 2 video on tuning. Sounds like I will have plenty to cover
It seemed to me the choke was pulled, that's why all the smoke and no idle slide adjustability???🤔
Having just made some changes on mine and having to disassemble the carb every time it doesnt do what i expected it to on a certain jet combo, this sounds like a dream. But hearing that one idle like that doesnt sound quite like a dream. Looking forward to part 2 where you wake me up or put a lectron on my wishlist.
#cvforme #exceptforwhenitactuallyneedstuning
Yea man I can’t imagine having to disassemble the whole thing every time! But hey the super E is a good in between option man. Can pop the jets out in no time and dialing it in is a little more straightforward than these lectrons
Can't wait to see part 2. I've been considering one of these but the jury's still out until I can get some more information. Like you said, there's not a whole lot of reviews out there. BTW, that's a really cool jacket you have on, is it an Aero? You make very helpful and informative videos; keep 'em coming!
Yes it’s a tricky one to figure out, I’ll need another week or two to get part 2 together.
The jacket is made by Schott, imo the best USA manufacturer of motorcycle jackets. This was a d pocket model they produced for legendary USA back in 2015 with horsehide leather, I hope to have it for the rest of my life
@greasesgarage Very nice! I have a 118 in cowhide and a 618 in horsehide and will probably get a 613 in steerhide soon. I was also looking at a J-106 Aero which is a D-pocket style, because three Schotts is enough, I think. Thanks for the replies!
@@chipmartin7608ayy a fellow jacket enthusiast, that’s awesome! I had both of those before this one and kept buying and selling only ever keeping one at a time. Had a 613 for a bit there too. But once I got into bikes more deeply I went for one with a little looser fit to allow some layers. Schotts horsehide on this model is fantastic, I believe i only paid $400 for it back too, on sale at legendary.
Maybe I’ll do a video on riding gear and get some better shots of this and some of the other gear that’s saved my skin
@@chipmartin7608btw, I’ve also looked at those Aeros, their HH looks even better than Schott honestly. Just hard to find anywhere in the US that has them for sizing
How did you get on with part 2 great video, I’ve got a standard 97 fatboy, love it. Have been looking at S&S cost a few $ here in New Zealand, I like your engine breather filters, nice and clean, do you have a link for them, plus your bike looks mint, I’ve got a hard tail frame, I’ve got to get onto, great inspiration , can’t wait to see more of your clips
I never did get around to part 2. Half because I needed it running for another video and the other half due to lack of interest. I can’t recommend it personally but some people swear by them. I prefer my super E
What happened to part 2?....Choke and enrichener are NOT the same thing. A choke restricts air flow which pulls more fuel and an enrichener actually lets in more fuel without restricting air flow..
We get it, thanks
You just have a bad carburetor I have never had any problems with my carburetor it runs awesome but the one you have has been sitting for a long time and needs to be rebuilt
Great video 👍 Was this carb used before? Might be dirty.
Mikey had it on his Shovelhead but it was running well, could just be that it needs some finer tuning for my evo
I have had the CV S&S and mikuni on my Harleys. I had a lectron on a 2 stroke. To me the best one for the Harleys is the S&S. All of them have pluses and minuses but for me the S&S just always works. The CV and mikuni are temperamental and requires rebuild more often. Haven't tried the Lectron on the harley but have thought about it but prefer the simplicity of the super e
The super E is without a doubt my favorite carb and it’s what I continue to run on my bike
Maybe I'm just noticing little stuff that doesn't matter, but it seemed like the mounting surface on your manifold wasn't very clean. There might have been enough on there to cause a vacuum leak. Just throwing it out there. That could also be causing your idle problems.
It could be. I have since reinstalled the super e on the bike (see my kickstart video) and it runs perfectly so I am inclined to believe it’s something to do with how I’ve got the settings on the lectron
Maybe the throttle cable is a bit short? The throttle slide is held high and is not controlled by the adjustment screw.
Otherwise, from what I see, it seems to me that this is a rather primitive carburetor.
Could be, I will have to check on that
If you have a high idle and the screw doesn’t do anything you need to open up the slide and reinstall it. There’s a process to it. If you look up the PDF installation manual, it’ll specify how. Lectron is horrible with documentation actually. Not your fault. It’s easy to miss. Trust me, I’ve battled running on my FXR. It ain’t plug and play. But it’s a nice carb for what it is
Thank you for this! I will give that a look, I appreciate the tips 🙏🏼
You basically have to slightly crack the throttle open before you fully torque down the top screws on the slide housing screws. Once torqued release the throttle. Then you’ll notice the adjustment screw doing something to the slide height.
@mcluvinole9098 That makes a lot of sense, like the slide has to sit on the screw right before it can be adjusted up or down, you know simple common sense tricks like you and I know, is what the " YOUNG COMPUTER TUNING GUYS" get lost at..lol....I was thinking at first the choke was pulled, hence the smoke and unadjustable idle🤔
what tube are you using for the throttle cable? I've been running one on a 98 Dyna. I've had allot of issues with the throttle sticking, either the slide isn't completely closing from airflow or going to a single cable setup. I've also had the same issue with fuel flow, I'll have to try your suggestion. great video. Thanks.
Throttle cable is from lectron. In watching the video back I don’t think it’s from the throttle cable being too short as one commenter suggested because even when showing the carb without the throttle cable attached that slide stays slightly open at the bottom
You should do the Tektall hsr42 clone. I just put one on my Evo dyna and it seems really damn close to the real thing.
Good idea!
@@greasesgarage there's a really good article by Joe Minton on tuning the hsr42 too if you haven't read it already 👍
Maybe the inner cable is too short and holding the slide up?
Can anyone on here recommend a simple fuel injection system for a turbo harley. Or does anyone know how to tune a mikuni for turbo applications?
How do I adjust the rod from sticking
Well.....I look at the price point of purchasing the carb, then the fuel economy provided....at twice the price I don't see enough value to make me switch from the easily rebuilt, very dependable with good fuel economy CV on my 93 Evo.
Yeah i wasnt to impress with mine didnt like how the throttle was still when running and was smooth when engine was off and you couldnt full choke or even 1/4 choke without being way to rich fouled plugs then the choke itself just quiet working all together had this white crusty stuff in it when i pulled the plunger out yeah went back to my cv40
Does it have a drain screw on the bowl.
I don’t believe so
One of my buddies swears up and down the Mikuni carb is way better than the Lectron. Any thoughts?
I would agree, my experience with the lectron wasn’t great and if I were ever to give up my beloved super E I’d look at mikuni before lectron
@@greasesgarage I’m trying to decide between a Mikuni or a S&S for a 96 Sportster I’m working on lol. It runs fine I just wanna upgrade it a bit
My most honest recommendation is the S&S. For the simple things you do most on a carb. Extended screws available that allow you to adjust it by finger at a light, throttle cable is externally mounted and easy to remove, parts available everywhere because it’s one of the most popular carbs, every cool air cleaner made is always made for S&S…there’s a lot to love.
Are you getting back on lectron videos or did you just forget about it?
The video didn’t generate the interest I was hoping for so I put the topic away for the foreseeable future. If I see more comments or questions on this topic I can revisit it but most of my audience didn’t seem interested as compared to videos I’ve done on other carbs
@@greasesgarage Okay thanks. Buy did you get it working and still have it? Or did you back to your old carb
@HK-nl3ih I did not end up getting it to work, I put the super e back on for the remainder of the season
I'll stick with my Super E..lol😂
Leaning that way myself haha
For me I bought this carburetor
For Road King model 2000
I have headache with it..👎
Only one think is good
The power I feel there is different from before
Will this carb work on my 97 sporty
You will want to write to lectron to get the appropriate size carb for that size motor they’ll get you set up properly
won't spare a review carb fk em. Plus they're pretty damn expensive imho. Did you ever get it dialed in, discover the problem with the (supposedly good-to-go) factory settings? Anyway thanks for sparing us the struggle..!
I did not, so I can’t really recommend this carb to anyone
Can i get one for mil8
according to some who have tried both, the Mikuni is far superior to the Lecktron for a Harley!
I would like to do this test with a mikuni I hear great things
maybe your throttle cable wasn't letting the slide move
The lineage is from the OLD POSA carb from circa 1970.. Then it was cross bread between Amal, Mikuni and POSA.... Not a very good carb as it only works well on one setting. All other throttle positions are a compromise.
Interesting, never heard of that before but I will have to see how it does as I tune it more
The floats stick! And if you leave your bike sitting for more than a month the metering rod will get stuck to where the throttle will not work! When you try to unstick it the metering rod will pull out of the slide housing. On your bike you need to turn the metering rod out one eighth of a turn and turn your fuel in one eighth of a turn and it will idle fine. My hd400 I bought was 1,000.00 Dollars not a cheap investment but once you figure out how to set it you will find your performance of your bike will be a changed animal.
I’ll try this with the metering rod. I don’t believe the float is stuck though I took the bowl off and moved it around I’d be surprised if it was still stuck
What kind of air filter fits it.
Supposedly the new ones come with a mounting flange which matches the S&S super e so it can take the same air cleaners
@@greasesgarage thanks for your reply....if I'd of waited and watched your whole vid before sending my question I would of heard about the air cleaner attachment....my bad....I'm running an S&S with a thunder jet set up and i'm experiencing a short hesitation in the mid range....I was thinking of replacing it with the lectron carb....just wondering when you are releasing the follow up vid on how you fine tuned the lectron to eliminate the teething probs you were having with it....
You need single fire ignition instead of dual fire junk❤bike will start easier and run better
Can you put a lectron on a shadow 750
I would call lectron and ask them because I’m sure people have wanted to
As far as I know, you can, as long as they will physically fit the manifold on your Shadow. You'll need a Mikuni 48mm push-in manifold or similar. Lectron sells their carbs by displacement; they have a v-twin carb for motors from 53ci - 100ci, and a carb for motors larger than 100ci.
@@Lochlann13 @greasesgarage ..ok but why i would do that..yeh whats the benefit of it . Would i gain more mailes per galon or a litle bit of horses power or more torque ..because gain a bit more miles per galón would be a very good reason to buy one …and i was wondering that would be awesome if exist a kit for made a carburated bike into a fuel inyected.. maybe is too crazy that think but would be great that some brand or companies start to sell those kind of kits..
@@carlosviedas199 The benefit of the Lectron, in my experience, is the throttle response improvement, a wider, more linear power band, and increased reliability. I've heard that they also slightly increase horsepower, but can't confirm that myself.
They do make kits to convert a carbureted motorcycle to a fuel injection system, but they're pretty expensive from what I recall. If you don't want to hire a shop to install it for you, you'd have to know a fair bit about wiring, electronics, and engine tuning to get it running right.
Japanese made Jacket?
This one is USA made, by Schott for LegendaryUSA (retailer) they called it their “black stallion” model as it’s a horsehide version of the old D pocket buco design. Unfortunately it’s no longer available and the one they sell now is not made by Schott.
I have seen those Japanese ones made by the real McCoys they look incredible
Choke was on
No, you can see the choke in the video
@@greasesgarage ok ty💪
I'll go ahead and address the elephant in the room. The super E is rubbish. It's missing an entire fuel circuit, hence the invention of the Zippers power jet. Another certified H-D technician calls it a controlled fuel leak. I have had great success with the Mikuni HSR-42 on several projects but I'm ready to try a Lectron.
I certainly disagree but I’m just one person and I wish you luck with the lectron 🙏🏼
Man I'm interested on your Lectron journey. I Have a crate 124 S&S engine I will be installing this winter, and I'm thinking of going to a Lectron, currently I have a Zippers Stage 2 carb and would love the ease of that Lectron. Keep me in mind if you go that route💪
Put the S&S back on.
@@GeorgeEdmonds-v7e that’s exactly what I did, have never looked back 👍🏼
@@greasesgarage Back when I was young and riding Shovels I switched back and forth between the S&S and the Mikuni.I think the Mikuni metered better and could take wether changes without needing adjustment.
pure junk rather use a cv any day
It isn't junk. But, I don't see enough benefit to replace my S&S or CV with a Lectron. If I were building another bike and needed a carburetor, I would investigate the Lectron. I can see a great advantage for riding in the mountains were elevation changes rapidly.
Its made to sell not to work !