Thanks for this instruction. I was very delayed in starting this project because the Torx screws had rusted out and I couldn't remove them. I had to buy a set of extractor screws to see if I can remove them. I'm giving it a try now and if successful, I'll try to follow your instructions. I'll report back with how long the entire project took.
@@zweare1 Ok! So it took me 1.5 hours to remove one of those rusted screws. Here's what happened. I used the screw extractor set, experimenting with different sizes, but was careful to start with smaller sizes. I went progressively bigger, and nothing worked. Had to watch a RUclips video about these situations, and took their advice to just drill straight through the screw head until the head popped off. Successful! The body of the screw is still in the hole, and I don't think I'll ever get that out. So here's the question: that green grounding wire isn't coming out. I don't want to force it in case I'm doing it wrong -- but is it just a matter of pulling it out with tremendous force? I'm also having trouble pulling out the side panels. Does that take extra force as well? Thanks!
@@sport8133 The green wire is a ground and if you break it, I would think you can get a new spade lug and crimp it on the wire. My side panels came off very easy, so not for sure why yours are being so difficult, sorry I couldn't help more.
@@sport8133 Wow, lots of good info, thanks hopefully if any has your same issues they will read this. Very strange that the screws were so rusted and very strange also about the glue, there should be no reason for the factory to glue it. Glad you are back up and having coffee once again. Good job.
Thank you for the video. I've already had to replace the bottom hing and now pump 2 flow is @ 2 - 5 . And Finding people that even work on them... You might as well be looking for someone to fix your space shuttle . But it does make a delicious cup of Joe.
Hello! My unit has a high-pitched squeal when it is decalcifying. Then it leaks water everywhere. Any idea what’s going on? I also notice the drip drawer, next to the used espresso grounds, fills up quicker than it used to. Any help would be so much appreciated!
Hey Paul, I found the same pump on Amazon URL..... www.amazon.com/Recamania-Ulka-EAX5-Vibratory-Pump/dp/B00UCH2NQ0/ref=pd_ybh_a_209?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=351V9NFFTV70FPXB0EYH Was less expensive than what I paid for it. good luck
Hello!! Thank you for your great explanation!! I gather when you went into the "diagnostics" (blue screen), your number 1 pump flow was low, am I correct? {Mine was 0 to 1}. And either your coffee flow was real real sloooww....and/or you got a E05 fault after a water priming indicator? Anyway that is what our machine is doing. Thank you again!!
Hey Fred, you are welcome and the pump flow was very low, however i did not get any error code. Check Amazon for the pump, I think they still have them
If you are restarting your machine after a long layoff, the pump might require manual priming, and you don't need a new pump. If you do install a new pump and get the E05 error, see my other post in this thread for the solution.
hey sir, my accademia leaking sticky old coffee from the downside of the door, could u suggest what might wrong with the machine? the coffee still taste great, but it often say "empty driptray" when the driptray is clean, i have to open the door inside and wipe clean the sensor circuit board to put it back to normal. im from indonesia with difficult access to service centre
Ozman....I have heard about the wet/water issue inside the machine running out of the bottom. Mine does it occasionally and from everything I have read it's nothing that can be fixed. I also read it was an engineering issue, but not for sure if it has been fixed yet. Good luck
EPIC DETAILS FOLLOW ON THE FIX. With the help of this video, I fixed it, and here are some details that may help the next poor sap who needs it: - one of my screws had rusted away so badly that I bought a screw extractor set which didn't work and I had to just use a drill bit to drill right through the screw head to pop it off the body which remained attached in the plastic housing, but the the screw no longer served its function and so I was able to remove a panel cleanly - one of the wires had been GLUED IN with white wire glue, so I wrapped the glue part with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol and covered the ball with painter's tape overnight so that the alcohol would soak into the glue and in the morning I used a pair of pliers to gently pry the glue out to remove the wire - the green grounding wire that you see in this video can be removed by depressing an almost invisible tab which I saw only by taking a close-up photo of it, so don't just yank on it or you will break it and from what I understand, grounding wires are kind of important - water pump definitely is threaded, so don't yank it off the hose attachment where zweare1 mentioned it as a not-recommended option - my side panel assembly was a pain to reattach and I ripped off one of the tabs but it didn't seem to make a difference because the panels still went in in the end - after re-assembling everything, I started it up and got an E-05 error! So I turned off and on like an idiot about 10x with the same result each time - then I researched to learn how to do the diagnostic mode's pump 1 test about 10x and was afraid I'd burn out the motor because of how long I let it attempt to prime the pump - the Gaggia manual says that one possible solution is "manual priming" which they don't explain how to do, so here's how to do it: - I called Gaggia N.A. and learned how to use a turkey baster with which I injected 5 forceful squirts into the water reservoir hole and then conducted the diagnostic mode pump 1 test (see elsewhere on RUclips for details given by Wholelattelove) - when doing the pump 1 test to get the pump primed, I had to start and stop the test 3 times before success! - flow went from 0 to 0-1 to 2 and then to 8 to 12 to 15 to 18, where it settled! - I strongly recommend running the decalcifying cycle, twice if you have time - remove the twin spout unit and soak it in dishwashing liquid water for 5 minutes and use the turkey baster to force water through each spout from both ends, which will jettison any gunk that came out of the decalcifying cycle (my spout had a surprising amount of gunk in it because the previously low water pressure is now high which forced out all the junk from the pipes!) - the machine seems about 10% noisier in operation because I probably didn't seat the new pump completely correctly so I might go back in and insert some sound insulating crap but then I'd have to research what kind of stuff is heat safe and I don't want to spend another minute on this project and I'd rather type this stuff here to help everyone else than spend time on insulating the sound but I might do it anyway cuz it drives me a little crazy. And yes, I'm verbose now because it's the first time I've had coffee in many months and I had to test the machine out a lot because I can't believe I actually got the bugger to work. All in all, with the research involved as well as the actual mechanical work, it took about 10 hours from diagnosis to fix. I spread this out over 6 months, so it wasn't too bad, but if you're wondering about whether to do this or not, it's no accident that it is NOT a recommended do it yourself job because it is a major pain. Without Zware1's help, I wouldn't have been able to do it, which is why I'm contributing to this thread. I had to research stuff I don't know about like diagnostic modes, what could be the root cause, screw extractor technology, how to deal with a situation where screw extractors don't work, how to remove electrical wiring glue, manual priming, OEM vs aftermarket water pumps, and some other random stuff I forgot. The outsourcing option was anywhere between $140 - $300, depending on whether you ship and amount of work actually involved, with no guarantee of success. For me, it was definitely a pump 1 failure and the new pump replacement fixed it. Normally, this would not have been worth doing due to the amount of time it required (yes on a per hour basis, I could have bought a couple new Accademias!), but this machine has a lot of sentimental value for me and I didn't want to risk damaging it during shipment because I threw away the original box, and know I can't pack for sh*t. Do this only if you're a complete nerd and/or mechanically inclined. I am not mechanically inclined, but I am a nerd and I catered to my ADHD by spreading this work out over a long time. Trust me when I say that you better be patient and willing to solve mildly challenging spatial puzzles. I estimate it would about 30 minutes of work, at most, for someone who knew what they were doing. If I had to do it again, it might take me 40 minutes. If you have the same problem I had, and no rusted bolts or glue issues, it might take you 2 hours with the help of this video and my details. I've had this machine for 8 years and it averages about 8 shots/day.
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this instruction. I was very delayed in starting this project because the Torx screws had rusted out and I couldn't remove them. I had to buy a set of extractor screws to see if I can remove them. I'm giving it a try now and if successful, I'll try to follow your instructions. I'll report back with how long the entire project took.
Good Luck I have heard about the screws being rusted
@@zweare1 Ok! So it took me 1.5 hours to remove one of those rusted screws. Here's what happened. I used the screw extractor set, experimenting with different sizes, but was careful to start with smaller sizes. I went progressively bigger, and nothing worked. Had to watch a RUclips video about these situations, and took their advice to just drill straight through the screw head until the head popped off. Successful! The body of the screw is still in the hole, and I don't think I'll ever get that out. So here's the question: that green grounding wire isn't coming out. I don't want to force it in case I'm doing it wrong -- but is it just a matter of pulling it out with tremendous force? I'm also having trouble pulling out the side panels. Does that take extra force as well? Thanks!
@@sport8133 The green wire is a ground and if you break it, I would think you can get a new spade lug and crimp it on the wire. My side panels came off very easy, so not for sure why yours are being so difficult, sorry I couldn't help more.
@@zweare1 I realized that the green wire is attached with a tab that you have to depress in order to detach the wire. Thanks!
@@sport8133 Wow, lots of good info, thanks hopefully if any has your same issues they will read this. Very strange that the screws were so rusted and very strange also about the glue, there should be no reason for the factory to glue it. Glad you are back up and having coffee once again. Good job.
Thank you for the video.
I've already had to replace the bottom hing and now pump 2 flow is @ 2 - 5 .
And Finding people that even work on them... You might as well be looking for someone to fix your space shuttle .
But it does make a delicious cup of Joe.
They do make a great cup of coffee, couldn't live with out it...😁
What a fucking nightmare!
Hello! My unit has a high-pitched squeal when it is decalcifying. Then it leaks water everywhere. Any idea what’s going on?
I also notice the drip drawer, next to the used espresso grounds, fills up quicker than it used to. Any help would be so much appreciated!
Thanks for the video! I have the same problem with the flow only 5 need to repair the pump. Do you have the link to where you purchased the new pump?
Hey Paul, I found the same pump on Amazon URL..... www.amazon.com/Recamania-Ulka-EAX5-Vibratory-Pump/dp/B00UCH2NQ0/ref=pd_ybh_a_209?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=351V9NFFTV70FPXB0EYH
Was less expensive than what I paid for it. good luck
Thanks for the peak inside. How long have you had yours before the pump started acting up? Mine is pretty new, but I am a diy kinda person as well.
I had it for 5 years, one user, two shots per day. Love the machine and ease of use......
Hello!! Thank you for your great explanation!! I gather when you went into the "diagnostics" (blue screen), your number 1 pump flow was low, am I correct? {Mine was 0 to 1}. And either your coffee flow was real real sloooww....and/or you got a E05 fault after a water priming indicator? Anyway that is what our machine is doing. Thank you again!!
Hey Fred, you are welcome and the pump flow was very low, however i did not get any error code. Check Amazon for the pump, I think they still have them
@@zweare1 THANK YOU SO MUCH!! Yes they have them I ordered one yesterday!
If you are restarting your machine after a long layoff, the pump might require manual priming, and you don't need a new pump. If you do install a new pump and get the E05 error, see my other post in this thread for the solution.
hey sir, my accademia leaking sticky old coffee from the downside of the door, could u suggest what might wrong with the machine? the coffee still taste great, but it often say "empty driptray" when the driptray is clean, i have to open the door inside and wipe clean the sensor circuit board to put it back to normal. im from indonesia with difficult access to service centre
Ozman....I have heard about the wet/water issue inside the machine running out of the bottom. Mine does it occasionally and from everything I have read it's nothing that can be fixed. I also read it was an engineering issue, but not for sure if it has been fixed yet. Good luck
Alright sir, thanks for the respond, hope mine wouldnt go broken anytime soon, cheers
EPIC DETAILS FOLLOW ON THE FIX. With the help of this video, I fixed it, and here are some details that may help the next poor sap who needs it:
- one of my screws had rusted away so badly that I bought a screw extractor set which didn't work and I had to just use a drill bit to drill right through the screw head to pop it off the body which remained attached in the plastic housing, but the the screw no longer served its function and so I was able to remove a panel cleanly
- one of the wires had been GLUED IN with white wire glue, so I wrapped the glue part with a cotton ball soaked in rubbing alcohol and covered the ball with painter's tape overnight so that the alcohol would soak into the glue and in the morning I used a pair of pliers to gently pry the glue out to remove the wire
- the green grounding wire that you see in this video can be removed by depressing an almost invisible tab which I saw only by taking a close-up photo of it, so don't just yank on it or you will break it and from what I understand, grounding wires are kind of important
- water pump definitely is threaded, so don't yank it off the hose attachment where zweare1 mentioned it as a not-recommended option
- my side panel assembly was a pain to reattach and I ripped off one of the tabs but it didn't seem to make a difference because the panels still went in in the end
- after re-assembling everything, I started it up and got an E-05 error! So I turned off and on like an idiot about 10x with the same result each time
- then I researched to learn how to do the diagnostic mode's pump 1 test about 10x and was afraid I'd burn out the motor because of how long I let it attempt to prime the pump
- the Gaggia manual says that one possible solution is "manual priming" which they don't explain how to do, so here's how to do it:
- I called Gaggia N.A. and learned how to use a turkey baster with which I injected 5 forceful squirts into the water reservoir hole and then conducted the diagnostic mode pump 1 test (see elsewhere on RUclips for details given by Wholelattelove)
- when doing the pump 1 test to get the pump primed, I had to start and stop the test 3 times before success!
- flow went from 0 to 0-1 to 2 and then to 8 to 12 to 15 to 18, where it settled!
- I strongly recommend running the decalcifying cycle, twice if you have time
- remove the twin spout unit and soak it in dishwashing liquid water for 5 minutes and use the turkey baster to force water through each spout from both ends, which will jettison any gunk that came out of the decalcifying cycle (my spout had a surprising amount of gunk in it because the previously low water pressure is now high which forced out all the junk from the pipes!)
- the machine seems about 10% noisier in operation because I probably didn't seat the new pump completely correctly so I might go back in and insert some sound insulating crap but then I'd have to research what kind of stuff is heat safe and I don't want to spend another minute on this project and I'd rather type this stuff here to help everyone else than spend time on insulating the sound but I might do it anyway cuz it drives me a little crazy. And yes, I'm verbose now because it's the first time I've had coffee in many months and I had to test the machine out a lot because I can't believe I actually got the bugger to work.
All in all, with the research involved as well as the actual mechanical work, it took about 10 hours from diagnosis to fix. I spread this out over 6 months, so it wasn't too bad, but if you're wondering about whether to do this or not, it's no accident that it is NOT a recommended do it yourself job because it is a major pain. Without Zware1's help, I wouldn't have been able to do it, which is why I'm contributing to this thread. I had to research stuff I don't know about like diagnostic modes, what could be the root cause, screw extractor technology, how to deal with a situation where screw extractors don't work, how to remove electrical wiring glue, manual priming, OEM vs aftermarket water pumps, and some other random stuff I forgot.
The outsourcing option was anywhere between $140 - $300, depending on whether you ship and amount of work actually involved, with no guarantee of success. For me, it was definitely a pump 1 failure and the new pump replacement fixed it. Normally, this would not have been worth doing due to the amount of time it required (yes on a per hour basis, I could have bought a couple new Accademias!), but this machine has a lot of sentimental value for me and I didn't want to risk damaging it during shipment because I threw away the original box, and know I can't pack for sh*t. Do this only if you're a complete nerd and/or mechanically inclined. I am not mechanically inclined, but I am a nerd and I catered to my ADHD by spreading this work out over a long time. Trust me when I say that you better be patient and willing to solve mildly challenging spatial puzzles. I estimate it would about 30 minutes of work, at most, for someone who knew what they were doing. If I had to do it again, it might take me 40 minutes. If you have the same problem I had, and no rusted bolts or glue issues, it might take you 2 hours with the help of this video and my details. I've had this machine for 8 years and it averages about 8 shots/day.