I have now glazed 20 windows in my home and my last one that was similar to this took me an hour. Karen’s skill is very impressive. I have learned a lot from this channel. It is a great resource while I am fixing up an historic house on my days off.
I hope to do the same... she gives me hope, I am a woman doing all my own work in my beautiful 6200sqft 1933 home...i am loving it. I hope to be as competent as Karen.
That woman demonstrating is very skilled. Watching and using the way she holds the knife while running it along the length of the sash improved my finished product immensely. I also didn’t know of the use of whiting or powdered sheet rock compound to finish the glazing and clean the windows was another revelation. Thanks for the great video.
@@stephendee103 LOL this made me laugh. I also get way too excited talking about interesting things I learned and end up eating the whole sentence. Sometimes out loud, sometimes in writing. Every time though!
Painter for 10 years, and just wow, I would spend way more time, in the field doing this. I think I'll try your technique, looks to save time/money, THANX!
I wish I would have discovered your blog before I ripped out my original 110 year old windows in exchange for vinyl replacements. Too little too late. Despite that, I have a new appreciation for those old windows. There just isn't enough emphasis on preservation of old-fashioned, quality craftsmanship.
That is a shame, because you'll have to replace those vinyl replacements sooner than you think. We just don't have "save your old windows!" craftsmen out there on the streets to compete with the vinyl siding salesmen. So many once lovely neighborhoods now are so ugly. They are still nice houses inside, but gee, the outsides are just hideous.
A few years back we had a home energy audit. Our circa 1885 house didn't fair so well and we discussed replacing the old windows and storms. The fella that did the audit told me to fix the windows instead. More work in the short term but much less expensive in the long term. New vinyl windows fail in 25-30 years and, importantly, have less airspace than the window's glass and the storm's glass. The current windows are the originals and with some TLC will continue to function beyond the vinyl's lifetime.
This is so useful...i am getting ready to do some old windows, they cannot be removed. I've never done this before, i haven't done a lot of this kind of thing before. I bought this beautiful house 1933 and I am doing all the work on it so far.
nice clean work....I always check the condition of the wood before glazing...always paint bare wood or the putty will fail in time....i usually paint about a 1/4 inch of the glass as well.....my trick? I blue- tape about a 1/4 inch from the edge, then spray the edge with a quick film of paint, let it dry ten minutes then apply the putty. Same with the little edge of wood, make sure its painted.....did my mom's sunporch french windows ten years back, putty is still hugging glass, its starting a few hairline cracks, but its solid.
Karen has skills! Great video with good advice, but I bet some viewers don't realize how important it is to have the glazing putty to be warm and soft. Don't try to glaze with cold glazing putty.
Wery helpful. See the putty is very soft comered to what I am using. I knead it properly but it seems to lack a bit of linseed oil. Therein lies my problems. Too much oil and it sticks all over the place. I saw on her gloves that she had it sticky. This is a fine line to walk. I at least found out the hard way that the consistence of the putty is key.
I've done hundreds of windows over the years. I always dipped my knife in a bit of turpentine to keep the putty from dragging with the knife. I've never had problems doing that, but the dust is a new one on me. I'll have to try it next time. I've got around 50 windows to repair in the coming weeks.. Also I've never been good at making the snakes so I just dip globs of putty on my knife and jam it in the rabbit joint.. Corners are easy especially with a dab of turpentine..
an embee curved one inch knife,,used ONLY on applying putty,( great stuff= Nuputty,,out of business now) Des Plaines Il,,feather the glass edges with fine grit sandpaper,or just a step above the fine stuff,taking the sharp edge off means the 3ft crumbcrunchers in the house can slam the window down and it will not break,use the glass cutter to snip off the sharp corners too,trangle glazing points,these secure the bedded glass TIGHT onto the sash,, before glass is set in the sash for puttying,clean it with pumice or cerium oxide to remove the plastic grit that protects the massively heavy glass sheets from rubbing and breaking during the trip to the assembly point,windex alone does not do this,,the putty will likely fall off,peel,and not seal properly,( red devil glass cutters,,real good for this,),store each cutter in oil or creosote,one for each thickness of glass,dont use one for the other,,prime the rabbet with a bead of paint before applying the thin putty bed,that sealed surface means the putty will stick,,unless someone tosses a baseball through the window,it will provide more inside quiet,and weather sealing for 50-60 years,use a belt sander to feather and smooth every wood surface in the window track casement bottom and sides,the window should go up & down smoooothly,not stick,or get stuck on protruding nails inside the window weight housing,an inch and a 1/4 long 3 d nails are what you use to nail the trim and parting stop in place,nothing longer, cotton cord to attach the window weights lasts a lot of years,, nylon cord will soften and break prematurely.
If I even attempted to go the same speed or relatively close chances are I will need a replacement replacement glass and most likely a stitch or two..I'm cursed with being able to make what should be a simple task very complicated..at this point it's a talent..
I was certain a bed of putty was required but fail to see that elsewhere . Seems like remember painting on some linseed oil on the really old dry frames...is this true?
What?! No instruction on laying down bedding putty before you put the glass in? No mention of how to prep the wood with either linseed oil or oil base paint? this is the information I was looking for!
Either one. Old dry putty isn't good and heat helps as long as it's not hot.. I have softened it up a bit with just a dab of turpentine.. Not much, just a fine mist..
Wow, nice site. My windows are old and glazing oozing out and leaking an air is the only problem. Am I crazy to think just replacing the glaze will solve the problem vs replacement windows. Seems like the window industry would have more business's replacing the glaze and not doing the whole window for 25K.
Hi, great video on glazing. I've repaired a few of my old wooden storm windows on my house and struggle with the putty pulling away from the wood as I pull the putty knife across it. It looks like the putty Karen is using is very soft compared to the putty I've bought at the hardware store (even after letting it warm up inside the house). Does it need to be that soft of putty to work well? Thanks!
From watching other videos it seems the warmer the putty is the better it works. Most of the videos I've watched of people doing a good job show them kneading the putty in their hands until it is really soft before they apply it.
I had to replace 8 large panes in situ. I used Sarco Type M and whiting. Can it rain on that before I paint or do I need to hurry up and paint before it rains? Also, can I paint with latex paint directly or do I have to primer first?
Exactly really usually need to prime wood to stop it soaking the oil out of what you put on it otherwise it usually drys out and cracks at least with ordinary putty it does. Like it says there's a previous video on old windows.
In researching calcium carbonate (whiting powder) products that came up said you could use in wine to reduce the acidity! Is this the same as used in the video?!
Please help! I have tons of old wood windows where the glazing has cracked The only window putty I could find is dap33 latex window glazing They say I need to prime the window frames with oil based primer to use this which poses a bunch of problems for me For one oil based primer means I need oil based paint Do you have any experience with this or any advice on what I should do?
Not one of the hundreds of panes of glass I have to reglaze is every going to be horizontal, or out of its whatever-you-call-it. These are metal casements, about 1930, riveted in, and we're just reglazing where it's falling right out of the window. Cannot find any metal spring clips holding the glass panes in, so am assuming that little bead of putty that looks like cement is what is holding them in. Doing this outside on old windows with old paint everywhere (I can't scrape all the putty off all the windows; what if they start falling out?) leads to dirt and crap falling all over the place constantly. I'm just focusing on the ones that look most dangerous, the ones where most of the putty has already fallen off, or where if you touch it it just falls off in a hunk. So then I try to clean it out -- what do you call it? a rabbit? rabbet? is it a rabbit/et in a steel window? -- and paint the steel with rust destroyer. Wait for that to dry, then putty. And my putty sticks to my putty knife. Oh, well... On another video, the fellow referred to the edges of these areas for the putty as "heiresses", or something like that. And then there's this sightline, so you can't see the putty from inside. Seems a little bit like learning to drive.... a few things to remember. Thanks for the help. But make it harder for yourselves sometimes, like for real people outside on ladders with steel windows set in concrete....
Karen is obviously an seasoned craftsman. Watch a pro with experience if you want to learn the right way. Thanks. Would like to have heard you discuss prepping the rabbet before glazing. BLO or primer.
Thank you so much for the great tutorial. The one rude commenter is an embarrassment, unfortunately in the internet age you can be rude to anyone with no risk of a black eye. I'm building new old-fashioned wood storms. Can the putty go on the bare wood? I've just primed the windows to this point but didn't prime the rabbets and I want to ask before I go any further. Thanks, great work!
I have an earlier video that is more thorough about the steps prior to finish glazing. It’s much older and not as good quality, but it covers bedding and prep before hand.
What would you suggest using to remove the excess oils after they have dried? I didn't use any whiting dust, and now my windows are covered in dried oils.
Adrian Armstrong I appreciate the feedback but the standard practice has been mitred putty corners for the last 400 or so years. This one has been tested and found to work so I'm sticking with it.
I respectfully disagree, As a heritage carpenter that just fixed windows out of Kings college Chapel from 1798 that was refinished last year with sharp mitered corners the bottoms of every pane lifted. The architect of the university specifically asked for rounded corners which I thought was standard procedure. I have never heard of anyone ever not rounding the corners for water shed. Every brand of putty available here also recommends it. Maybe I'm in a different climate and it works in yours but not in Halifax Nova Scotia where its humid, wet and constantly freezing and thawing. I guess it depends on where it is. I have never removed old putty that was still stuck and not lifted that was not rounded so I'm not the only one.
Adrian Armstrong well I guess it's a regional thing because here in the US working on any heritage building the corners are always mitred and have been going back as far as the 1600s.
Adrian Armstrong I see the reference but I still have to disagree. I'm on the boards of the Window Preservation Alliance and the worked with the founders of the Window Preservation Standards Collaborative. None of the hundreds of window restorers I know glaze with rounded corners or have come across rounded corners in their work. That's not to say it isn't a effective technique possibly but not one that is practiced in the USA.
My Dap 33 glazing putty didn't ever get as soft and clean cutting as your video. it tended to pull and shred along the glass edge. what am I doing wrong?
Your using DAP 33, that what is wrong. DAP is really a terrible glazing putty. Check out better outties like Sarco or my own putty Austin’s Glazier’s Putty.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog , I heard this from someone tradesman about 10 years ago prior to restoring several 6 over 6 double-hungs, and was told that Sherwin-Williams "66" glazing compound was a superior product. I bought a small tub of it and used it. It did seem to be a bit more user-friendly than Dap, but nothing like what I'm seeing here. So is that your own putty that's being used in this video and is it linseed oil based product or? what do you find to be the ideal working temperature? I imagine this info is available on your website, but it might be useful to go more into the details about the putty in the video or pinned at the top of the notes. Thanks for posting this, it looks like you all do fantastic work.
Great video! I always like learning new trades, where would I be able to learn this or obtain a job. Some companies that I'm seeing hire a glazier, want 2 years of experience. Is there a
@@pauljavener7342You bed the glass in putty, press firmly around the edges and then carefully push in points on all four sides. Next turn the window over and remove the excess putty. This will keep the window from rattling I'm the future from wind or vibration. Now you are ready to glaze the window.
OMG. . . This was a total fail for me. Ha ha! I didn't use gloves and the glazing putty stuck to my hands big time. What a mess! I don't think gloves would've helped though. I used a well known brand of glaze, but I couldn't for the life of me get a "snake" of putty. The putty was just way too runny. It was a nightmare. I got the job done, I'll give myself a C-/D+. It'll get me through the winter and then I'll have another go at it. I used a product called "Orange Goop" to get my hands and tools clean. That's the only part of this jog that went well!!
Aren't there important missing steps???? Cleaning, priming, back bedding? I guess that is covered under "go to craftsmans blog" but this could cause a newby innocent lots of headache!
N Y yes there are more steps but this is only a 5 min video showing finish glazing. I can't fit everything into the video but all the info is on my site if you need it.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog It sure does help, but tough to do with a lot of the old aluminum clad windows. It's not much fun glazing from a ladder 50 feet up..
Also good putty makes a huge difference. After messing around with hardware store DAP 33 product someone turned me on to Sarco glazing. Much more expensive but much easier to work with.
Seems odd o skip bedding and points and sash prep . Like this video skips more than half of the process. And there’s no real instruction about holding the tools, of how much pressure, none of the tings that help you learn the process well. It’s just someone narrating about the obvious.
I have now glazed 20 windows in my home and my last one that was similar to this took me an hour. Karen’s skill is very impressive. I have learned a lot from this channel. It is a great resource while I am fixing up an historic house on my days off.
Thanks Dan!
I hope to do the same... she gives me hope, I am a woman doing all my own work in my beautiful 6200sqft 1933 home...i am loving it.
I hope to be as competent as Karen.
Do you put primer before you put the putty?
That woman demonstrating is very skilled. Watching and using the way she holds the knife while running it along the length of the sash improved my finished product immensely. I also didn’t know of the use of whiting or powdered sheet rock compound to finish the glazing and clean the windows was another revelation. Thanks for the great video.
That second sentence was awful but you know what I mean.
Glad it helped!
@@stephendee103 LOL this made me laugh. I also get way too excited talking about interesting things I learned and end up eating the whole sentence. Sometimes out loud, sometimes in writing. Every time though!
Painter for 10 years, and just wow, I would spend way more time, in the field doing this. I think I'll try your technique, looks to save time/money, THANX!
I wish I would have discovered your blog before I ripped out my original 110 year old windows in exchange for vinyl replacements. Too little too late. Despite that, I have a new appreciation for those old windows. There just isn't enough emphasis on preservation of old-fashioned, quality craftsmanship.
That is a shame, because you'll have to replace those vinyl replacements sooner than you think. We just don't have "save your old windows!" craftsmen out there on the streets to compete with the vinyl siding salesmen. So many once lovely neighborhoods now are so ugly. They are still nice houses inside, but gee, the outsides are just hideous.
i feel your pain---but im going to re-replace with new wooden
A few years back we had a home energy audit. Our circa 1885 house didn't fair so well and we discussed replacing the old windows and storms. The fella that did the audit told me to fix the windows instead. More work in the short term but much less expensive in the long term. New vinyl windows fail in 25-30 years and, importantly, have less airspace than the window's glass and the storm's glass. The current windows are the originals and with some TLC will continue to function beyond the vinyl's lifetime.
You’re on the right track now!
What a great video. Short and to the point without fluff or posturing. Two thumbs up!! Thank you!
This is so useful...i am getting ready to do some old windows, they cannot be removed. I've never done this before, i haven't done a lot of this kind of thing before. I bought this beautiful house 1933 and I am doing all the work on it so far.
nice clean work....I always check the condition of the wood before glazing...always paint bare wood or the putty will fail in time....i usually paint about a 1/4 inch of the glass as well.....my trick? I blue- tape about a 1/4 inch from the edge, then spray the edge with a quick film of paint, let it dry ten minutes then apply the putty. Same with the little edge of wood, make sure its painted.....did my mom's sunporch french windows ten years back, putty is still hugging glass, its starting a few hairline cracks, but its solid.
Do you prime the wood before applying putty ?
Karen has skills!
Great video with good advice, but I bet some viewers don't realize how important it is to have the glazing putty to be warm and soft.
Don't try to glaze with cold glazing putty.
Excellent video, simple and to the point! Now I know I can fix these old windows on my near 100 year old house
Got get ‘em!
So glad I found this before I replaced the window sidelights on my home. I do not like any of the plastic looking replacements offered.
They never look as attractive as the originals!
Wery helpful. See the putty is very soft comered to what I am using. I knead it properly but it seems to lack a bit of linseed oil. Therein lies my problems. Too much oil and it sticks all over the place. I saw on her gloves that she had it sticky. This is a fine line to walk. I at least found out the hard way that the consistence of the putty is key.
Please tell us what is the putty she is using? Excellent video, good close ups!
obviously a true artist at work. thanks for sharing...
I've done hundreds of windows over the years. I always dipped my knife in a bit of turpentine to keep the putty from dragging with the knife. I've never had problems doing that, but the dust is a new one on me. I'll have to try it next time. I've got around 50 windows to repair in the coming weeks..
Also I've never been good at making the snakes so I just dip globs of putty on my knife and jam it in the rabbit joint.. Corners are easy especially with a dab of turpentine..
an embee curved one inch knife,,used ONLY on applying putty,( great stuff= Nuputty,,out of business now) Des Plaines Il,,feather the glass edges with fine grit sandpaper,or just a step above the fine stuff,taking the sharp edge off means the 3ft crumbcrunchers in the house can slam the window down and it will not break,use the glass cutter to snip off the sharp corners too,trangle glazing points,these secure the bedded glass TIGHT onto the sash,, before glass is set in the sash for puttying,clean it with pumice or cerium oxide to remove the plastic grit that protects the massively heavy glass sheets from rubbing and breaking during the trip to the assembly point,windex alone does not do this,,the putty will likely fall off,peel,and not seal properly,( red devil glass cutters,,real good for this,),store each cutter in oil or creosote,one for each thickness of glass,dont use one for the other,,prime the rabbet with a bead of paint before applying the thin putty bed,that sealed surface means the putty will stick,,unless someone tosses a baseball through the window,it will provide more inside quiet,and weather sealing for 50-60 years,use a belt sander to feather and smooth every wood surface in the window track casement bottom and sides,the window should go up & down smoooothly,not stick,or get stuck on protruding nails inside the window weight housing,an inch and a 1/4 long 3 d nails are what you use to nail the trim and parting stop in place,nothing longer, cotton cord to attach the window weights lasts a lot of years,, nylon cord will soften and break prematurely.
I found this just as we were buying a house built in 1781! I'm going to be a glazing pro by the time I finish these windows...
Yes you are!
If I even attempted to go the same speed or relatively close chances are I will need a replacement replacement glass and most likely a stitch or two..I'm cursed with being able to make what should be a simple task very complicated..at this point it's a talent..
Yes, bed the glass in a thin line of putty and secure it with glazing points. Check out my older video How to Glaze Old Windows for the whole process.
I was certain a bed of putty was required but fail to see that elsewhere . Seems like remember painting on some linseed oil on the really old dry frames...is this true?
What?! No instruction on laying down bedding putty before you put the glass in? No mention of how to prep the wood with either linseed oil or oil base paint? this is the information I was looking for!
Saw this older post that covers it. Great info in both videos. ruclips.net/video/4bgGxXtnq8Y/видео.htmlsi=OKy1UvF_H4GeMpUZ
Nice work Karen! When I pull the knife it pulls the glazing with it. Does that mean the glazing is too cold or not enough oil in it?
Either one. Old dry putty isn't good and heat helps as long as it's not hot.. I have softened it up a bit with just a dab of turpentine.. Not much, just a fine mist..
The chalking was a god send!
Wow, nice site. My windows are old and glazing oozing out and leaking an air is the only problem. Am I crazy to think just replacing the glaze will solve the problem vs replacement windows. Seems like the window industry would have more business's replacing the glaze and not doing the whole window for 25K.
Place, pack & tool. End-Edge tooling technique!
Hi, great video on glazing. I've repaired a few of my old wooden storm windows on my house and struggle with the putty pulling away from the wood as I pull the putty knife across it. It looks like the putty Karen is using is very soft compared to the putty I've bought at the hardware store (even after letting it warm up inside the house). Does it need to be that soft of putty to work well? Thanks!
From watching other videos it seems the warmer the putty is the better it works.
Most of the videos I've watched of people doing a good job show them kneading the putty in their hands until it is really soft before they apply it.
How do you put the glass in? Seems like the film starts halfway through the job.
I had to replace 8 large panes in situ. I used Sarco Type M and whiting. Can it rain on that before I paint or do I need to hurry up and paint before it rains? Also, can I paint with latex paint directly or do I have to primer first?
Exactly really usually need to prime wood to stop it soaking the oil out of what you put on it otherwise it usually drys out and cracks at least with ordinary putty it does. Like it says there's a previous video on old windows.
I was referring to painting the putty, not the wood. Thank you for your response.
At what point do you put the glass on since you skipped that step.
Nicely done. How do you stop the putty from dragging? When I do it there are little cracks all the way along, where the putty meets the glass.
You have to knead the putty so that it is really soft and warm.
The warmer the putty the better it will perform.
Don't use cold putty.
Great tutorial
In researching calcium carbonate (whiting powder) products that came up said you could use in wine to reduce the acidity! Is this the same as used in the video?!
I do the corners last for perfection
Brilliant thank you
Love it! I bet this guy can do a great, clean job on twenty windows in ten minutes! Excellent video!
It's not a guy.
From a contractor,very nice job and video.
Thank you!
What a great video
Wow, She is good !!!
Does that pudding glaze work for the outside of the window?
Please help!
I have tons of old wood windows where the glazing has cracked
The only window putty I could find is dap33 latex window glazing
They say I need to prime the window frames with oil based primer to use this which poses a bunch of problems for me
For one oil based primer means I need oil based paint
Do you have any experience with this or any advice on what I should do?
Not one of the hundreds of panes of glass I have to reglaze is every going to be horizontal, or out of its whatever-you-call-it. These are metal casements, about 1930, riveted in, and we're just reglazing where it's falling right out of the window. Cannot find any metal spring clips holding the glass panes in, so am assuming that little bead of putty that looks like cement is what is holding them in. Doing this outside on old windows with old paint everywhere (I can't scrape all the putty off all the windows; what if they start falling out?) leads to dirt and crap falling all over the place constantly. I'm just focusing on the ones that look most dangerous, the ones where most of the putty has already fallen off, or where if you touch it it just falls off in a hunk.
So then I try to clean it out -- what do you call it? a rabbit? rabbet? is it a rabbit/et in a steel window? -- and paint the steel with rust destroyer. Wait for that to dry, then putty. And my putty sticks to my putty knife. Oh, well...
On another video, the fellow referred to the edges of these areas for the putty as "heiresses", or something like that. And then there's this sightline, so you can't see the putty from inside. Seems a little bit like learning to drive.... a few things to remember. Thanks for the help. But make it harder for yourselves sometimes, like for real people outside on ladders with steel windows set in concrete....
yah we have 1950s steel casements double panes wide ones and no idea where to find any of these steel pane wedge clips either.
Karen is obviously an seasoned craftsman. Watch a pro with experience if you want to learn the right way. Thanks. Would like to have heard you discuss prepping the rabbet before glazing. BLO or primer.
Why does it appear that the edge shown on the left side is showing the underside of the glazing on the other side. Optical illusion?
Thank you so much for the great tutorial. The one rude commenter is an embarrassment, unfortunately in the internet age you can be rude to anyone with no risk of a black eye. I'm building new old-fashioned wood storms. Can the putty go on the bare wood? I've just primed the windows to this point but didn't prime the rabbets and I want to ask before I go any further. Thanks, great work!
Always prime the rabbets to avoid the wood pulling the oil out of the putty and drying it out prematurely.
Thanks for the encouragement too!
great vid... and wow! she is good!!!
wow awesome
Don’t you have to do both sides of the window???
chalk dust and light brush hmm ok neat. well im off to replace panes in several 1950s steel casement panes... hum..
Good luck! Steel window putty is pretty tough.
I think it’ll take me a few dozen!
Every time I try this the putty sticks to the knife and rolls right out the joint what am I doing wrong
Give me five years and 1000 windows and maybe I'll be as good as Karen.
Can I use climbing chalk (magnesium carbonate) for the whiting??
Never tried it so I’m not sure.
Why don't you do bedding were use those little clips that hold the glass in place seems like a couple of important steps that were overlooked?
I have an earlier video that is more thorough about the steps prior to finish glazing. It’s much older and not as good quality, but it covers bedding and prep before hand.
What would you suggest using to remove the excess oils after they have dried? I didn't use any whiting dust, and now my windows are covered in dried oils.
Try mentholated spirit.
you need rounded corners. Sharp corners look very nice and are satisfying but hold water. Glazing will last much longer with round corners.
Adrian Armstrong I appreciate the feedback but the standard practice has been mitred putty corners for the last 400 or so years. This one has been tested and found to work so I'm sticking with it.
I respectfully disagree, As a heritage carpenter that just fixed windows out of Kings college Chapel from 1798 that was refinished last year with sharp mitered corners the bottoms of every pane lifted. The architect of the university specifically asked for rounded corners which I thought was standard procedure. I have never heard of anyone ever not rounding the corners for water shed. Every brand of putty available here also recommends it. Maybe I'm in a different climate and it works in yours but not in Halifax Nova Scotia where its humid, wet and constantly freezing and thawing. I guess it depends on where it is. I have never removed old putty that was still stuck and not lifted that was not rounded so I'm not the only one.
Adrian Armstrong well I guess it's a regional thing because here in the US working on any heritage building the corners are always mitred and have been going back as far as the 1600s.
www.dap.com/media/73954/33-glazing-tb-2012.pdf
Page 2 number 8. Instructions are from Baltimore, Maryland as header says.
Adrian Armstrong I see the reference but I still have to disagree. I'm on the boards of the Window Preservation Alliance and the worked with the founders of the Window Preservation Standards Collaborative. None of the hundreds of window restorers I know glaze with rounded corners or have come across rounded corners in their work. That's not to say it isn't a effective technique possibly but not one that is practiced in the USA.
مرحبا كيف الحال ممكن نعرف ماهي مكونات العجينه
As long as the glass doesn't fall out 👍
😃😂😃😂😃😂😃😂😃😂😃😂
@thecraftsmanblog Can this same method be used replacing glass in a door frame? The pane size is 1890mm x 670mm
Thanks
Sure can!
hardest part is to actual find store bought putty that has not gone hard. video is cool, I doubt mine will be that clean :/
My Dap 33 glazing putty didn't ever get as soft and clean cutting as your video. it tended to pull and shred along the glass edge. what am I doing wrong?
Your using DAP 33, that what is wrong. DAP is really a terrible glazing putty. Check out better outties like Sarco or my own putty Austin’s Glazier’s Putty.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog , I heard this from someone tradesman about 10 years ago prior to restoring several 6 over 6 double-hungs, and was told that Sherwin-Williams "66" glazing compound was a superior product. I bought a small tub of it and used it. It did seem to be a bit more user-friendly than Dap, but nothing like what I'm seeing here. So is that your own putty that's being used in this video and is it linseed oil based product or? what do you find to be the ideal working temperature? I imagine this info is available on your website, but it might be useful to go more into the details about the putty in the video or pinned at the top of the notes. Thanks for posting this, it looks like you all do fantastic work.
Is the glazing what holds the glass in there?
No. Specialist glaziers points. Or panel pins.
What kind of putty you used
glazing putty specifically for glazing sashes any hardware store etc
Scott, in this vid you say 'glaze all 4 sides.' What about on a one lite lower sash? Do you glaze the top rail despite it being a dado?
Good question! You do NOT apply finish glazing on the dado of the bottom sash, but you should fill the dado with putty before installing the glass.
why the chalk dust?
the whiting cleans off the oil from the glass without disturbing the putty
Great video!
I always like learning new trades, where would I be able to learn this or obtain a job. Some companies that I'm seeing hire a glazier, want 2 years of experience.
Is there a
Is this glazing the only thing holding the glass pane in?
Do you set the glass in putty?
No it sets against the wood behind it.
@@pauljavener7342You bed the glass in putty, press firmly around the edges and then carefully push in points on all four sides. Next turn the window over and remove the excess putty. This will keep the window from rattling I'm the future from wind or vibration. Now you are ready to glaze the window.
No glazing points?
Glazing points are already set in place.
OMG. . . This was a total fail for me. Ha ha! I didn't use gloves and the glazing putty stuck to my hands big time. What a mess! I don't think gloves would've helped though. I used a well known brand of glaze, but I couldn't for the life of me get a "snake" of putty. The putty was just way too runny. It was a nightmare. I got the job done, I'll give myself a C-/D+. It'll get me through the winter and then I'll have another go at it.
I used a product called "Orange Goop" to get my hands and tools clean. That's the only part of this jog that went well!!
Stay away from DAP 33. Try our putty here thecraftsmanstore.com/austins-glazier-putty/
@robertbean8398
Aren't there important missing steps????
Cleaning, priming, back bedding?
I guess that is covered under "go to craftsmans blog" but this could cause a newby innocent lots of headache!
N Y yes there are more steps but this is only a 5 min video showing finish glazing. I can't fit everything into the video but all the info is on my site if you need it.
Thanks Scott, I didn't study completely enough.
I used the 20 minute drywall compound. Really wonderful.
Thank you!!!!! Way quicker than razor blades.
Do you need to remove windows to glaze it?
You don’t have to but it sure makes it easier.
@@TheCraftsmanBlog It sure does help, but tough to do with a lot of the old aluminum clad windows. It's not much fun glazing from a ladder 50 feet up..
what tool is it?
A firm putty knife
Every time I try to smooth off the putty with the knife, it drags the putty away from the frame
Nothing Like Watching A Pro On The Job, I could watch her all day long, how'd she get the putty so soft?
Warm it up and add a little linseed oil if need be to get it nice and soft.
Also good putty makes a huge difference. After messing around with hardware store DAP 33 product someone turned me on to Sarco glazing. Much more expensive but much easier to work with.
Absolutely!
The Craftsman Blog What kind of putty do you use?
Sorry, that was on my son’s account. Found your putty. Thanks, great videos.
nah show an old time glazier doing it done in under a minute
👍🏿👍
Do you glaze the inside of the window as well?
Nope just the outside.
Cut the back putty
If putty is not linseed oil putty it's probably garbage like damp putty
That’s not the traditional way of face puttying windows
And what is the traditional way?
Seems odd o skip bedding and points and sash prep . Like this video skips more than half of the process. And there’s no real instruction about holding the tools, of how much pressure, none of the tings that help you learn the process well. It’s just someone narrating about the obvious.
Karen can GLAZE!…Damn impressive